A short walk on the Meseta on Camino Frances to Leon Read more
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  • Day 1

    Camino Frances Burgos to Leon

    April 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After a bus journey from Bilbao, I arrived in Burgos. I met up with a fellow pilgrim Keith Patterson who I first met my very first Camino in 2015 outside Burgos cathedral.
    We are going to walk for a week before he returns home.
    We walked quickly out of the city and caught up on our lives. The trail was fairly boring but we ate up the kilometres before arriving at our hostel in Rabe de Las Cadazas. It was an easy 14kms.
    I’m settled into my own room. Due to COVID, this Camino will be a different one than my previously
    My plan is to walk from easy distances (to me) and just relax. I have booked my accommodation to Leon. Spain is starting to open after COVID. The pilgrims on the Camino are starting to return. The cafe and bar owners are delighted to have business again.
    After Leon, I intend to turn north and walk across the mountains to Oviedo on the Camino San Salvador.
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  • Day 2

    Rabe de las Calzadas to Castrojeriz

    April 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    The hostel last night was fantastic. The hospilardo could not do enough. Today was a late start as the we had breakfast. We set off into the start of the Meseta in overcast weather. It was only 8C.

    Keith and I carried on following the trail on clay paths and after a short time later the rain caught up with us.
    This turned the path into sticky clay (am I selling this adventure to you?) We just carried on until Hontanas appeared after 18kms.

    We stopped for a coffee and tortilla. We quickly set off in the torrential rain to the beautiful Castrojeriz.
    We arrived at 2.30pm (28kms) and settled into a very busy Albergue.

    Outside it continues to rain hard and the temperature is 6C. It’s not quite what I envisaged.

    Tonight we have a communal dinner before an early night.

    Tomorrow promises another round of rain and cold weather as I walk to Fromista (25kms)
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  • Day 3

    Castrojeriz to Fromista 25kms

    April 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    I enjoyed the Albergue Rosalia last night. We arrived mid afternoon absolutely frozen and soaked to the bone. Thankfully I got a bed next to the stove in the attic and was able to thaw my bones out and get my kit dry.
    The weather continued to be atrocious so I did not venture out. Dinner was a communal meal with 20 other pilgrims from all over the world.
    It was an early night for me wrapped up in my sleeping bag. This morning I was up and prepared by 05.45am and beat everyone to the toilets before the remaining 29 peregrinos raced for the three toilets in the Albergue 😬.
    Keith and I had breakfast and we’re on the trail by 7am. The weather was much the same as yesterday - lashing rain and 4C. This is not the Spain I know.
    Today we were walking 25kms to Fromista across the Meseta which is supposed to be flat. After 2.5kms we had heart attack hill at around 350m and back down onto the plains. We were in the rain clouds and we really could feel it. All the water obviously ran downhill onto the trail and turned the clay path into thick gloopy mud.
    We basically put and heads down and walked talking about everything.
    We quickly arrived cold and wet in Fromista around midday. I have my own room. The weather caught up with us. It is a Baltic 4C and lashing/sleeting (am I selling this to you?).
    I’ve had a beer and a bite to eat and I am just going to relax. The village is trying to have a fiesta in the main square. Bless them, it is a miserable affair in this weather.
    Tomorrow is a short 19kms with the promos of better weather. I have bought provisions for tomorrow because you really can’t be sure that there will be any restaurants or cars open. It’s Spain so you have to plan ahead.
    This was day 3 on the Camino Frances
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  • Day 3

    Fromista to Carrion de los Condes 19kms

    April 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    Well the fiesta obviously got underway last night. I was awake to 01.50am to the same music repeated over and over until 3.00am.
    I read my book until the fiesta finished.

    Someone obviously enjoyed the fiesta as when Keith and I set off this morning, there were the usual few drunks straggering around the town and the detritus strewn all over the place. At least the drunks were happy.

    There was an unusual sight in the sky today….the Sun! 🌞 It was still 6-7C but it did cheer everyone up AND it began to warm up.

    Keith and I followed the path along the road to our next destination and avoided the muddy alternative routes.

    We stopped after 10kms for our obligatory coffee at an Albergue. There were a group of Spanish youngsters still partying. What a lovely bunch. We were invited to join them for a beer but convinced them that we were sticking to coffee. For the next 30 mins, they interrogated Keith and I. I got to use my limited Spanish. The whole interaction with them was funny and we all clearly enjoyed each other’s company.

    We carried out on the trail and could not believe the amount of snow on the nearby Picos mountains. This also explained why the wind was so cold.

    We arrived bwfore midday in Carrion de los Condes and relaxed with a coffee before going to the hiostal. You quickly identify the other pilgrims in your bubble on the Camino and caught up with them in conversation.

    I’ve had a little explore in this pleasant town and now intend to relax.
    See
    Tomorrow will be another 26kms day BUT the forecast is improving and we might see 18C….
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  • Day 5

    Carrion de los Londes to Terradillos 26k

    April 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today was a good day. Keith and I met up for our morning office and watched the hoards of pilgrims setting off on the Camino. I have not seen this many before.

    The temperature quickly climbed to 20C. I walked and chatted to a few other pilgrims whom I’ve got to know over the past few days. We had to walk 17kms before your first break. The company is easygoing and conversations are easy.

    The trail was almost completely flat and dry.

    We arrived at 1.30pm and quickly did our admin. Clothes washed, bed prepared and lunch consumed. I am now chilling out under shade just chatting with other pilgrims from all over the work. This is the true nature of the Camino.

    Tomorrow is a 23km day and a little closer to Leon.
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  • Day 6

    Terradillos to Berclanos De Real Camino

    April 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Another flat day across the Meseta. We set off at 7.30am to a beautiful sunrise.

    We only walked a few kilometres before we had our morning coffee and a croissant.

    The weather was great. The temperature was a lovely 20C.

    Why mid morning, we arrived in A large town called Sahagun. It was time for second breakfast. We had already walked 17kms with another 10kms to go.
    We carried on just chatting to other pilgrims from all over the world. We arrived at our Albergue at the beginning of the village.

    Clothes washed and a few beers before we chilled out.

    Tomorrow will be 26kms but the weather forecast does not look good
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  • Day 6

    Bercianos de Real Camino to Mansilla de

    April 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Before I start with today’s account, let me sun up last night….
    I was happily chilling in my bunk when a young peregrina arrived to take the top bunk above me. As she threw her sleeping bag on the bunk, she screamed and pointed at a bug on her bunk…..a bed bug! These creatures will bite and suck the blood out of you (a little like my previous job…only joking)
    We quickly checked ours and surrounding beds and found more. These creatures will leave you with multiple bites and infest everything.,,.gross!!
    We quickly checked our kit and got out of there.
    We checked the remaining Albergues and found one that I had stayed in 2015. It was a donitivo. We had a wonderful communal meal. The hospilardo plied us with wine. I warned him about my snoring and ended up being given my own room…Bonus!
    Today was 27kms in a straight line across the Meseta. There was nothing to stimulate the mind but at any stops, it was lovely chatting to the other peregrinos from all over the world.
    I have arrived in Mansilla de las Mullas and am staying in a delightful Albergue.
    Tomorrow, Keith and I will finish our section of the Camino Frances. Keith returns home to Canada and I turn north on the Camino San Salvador.
    The time has passed, it has been great to walking together.
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  • Day 8

    Mansilla de las Mullas to Leon 19kms

    April 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Keith and I stayed at an amazing Albergue in Mansilla last night. The hospilardos were absolutely amazing. Their care and concern for the 17 pilgrims staying there was heart warming.

    Overnight, there were heavy thunderstorms but we’re gone in the morning. We had a great donation breakfast in the Albergue before we all set out.

    It was only 19kms so we stopped a lot for coffee and to say goodbye to our small band of pilgrims as we were leaving the Camino after today.

    We arrived in Leon at around midday and went to the Cathedral to raje some photos and get our credential stamped. We then had to go to the main bus station to find where Keith’s overnight bus to PARIS left from.

    We said our farewells. It has been a memorable 8 days (180 kms of the trail with probably another 50-60kms exploring the towns we passed through). We have shared bread, coffee and our lives. He is truly an amazing camino friend and I hope that we will walk another Camino in the future.

    I have settled into my hostel tonight. I am the only one here. It is fantastic and literally next to the Cathedral square.

    Tomorrow I will start the Camino San Salvador over the mountains to Oviedo. It rises to 1500m and is 120kms long.

    Watch this space….
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