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    • TravelerA Camino to Remember
      Day 21

      Into Frómista

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

      Today we got up early and started our walk to Frómista in the dark. In fact the first hour or so wasn’t the light of headlamps! We had a big uphill in the dark. Then we began being able to see.

      We’re on La Meseta, a relatively flat agricultural area that is isolated. La Meseta has a reputation as a boring, monotonous weeklong stretch, and many people skip it because “it’s boring.” We have both found this whole area lovely! It’s quiet and pretty, and the agricultural fields are interesting. Today we saw dry agriculture as well as irrigated fields. We saw many different crops, and there were several we couldn’t identify. The weirdest thing we saw was when we could see a rise ahead and saw what looked like a white bus. “What IS that?” we kept asking each other. Turns out it was a boat in a canal. We walked along side the canal for about two miles.

      So having mostly recovered from COVID we have been feeling good. And it was all fun and games until about the last three or four miles today when all of a sudden David started to tilt. Like his body is leaning to one side! Because of his cognitive issues it was hard to get a straight answer out of him about what was going on. (Just as an aside, not giving information in a straightforward way seems to be one of the big things that has changed about David’s day to day personality. He kind of talks circles around whatever he’s trying to say. It’s quite frustrating for the listener, usually me. Maybe it’s frustrating to him, too? It’s hard to say.) It seems that somehow he hurt his lower back and that’s made him lean? He looks a little like a banana or a boomerang when he normally would be standing straight up and down. We made it to the hotel and he’s konked out and I gave him three ibuprofen. Not sure what we’ll do tomorrow. I carried David’s backpack and my own the last two miles or so. And we can ship his backpack ahead and I can carry both of our water and sweaters, etc. Some kindhearted people on the trail were telling me he was very badly injured and needed to go to the hospital. But I’m not sure kindhearted trail passersby are the best source of medical information! Obviously I’ll let you know how we dealt with this tomorrow once we figure it out ourselves.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
      1
      11
      Day 23

      Day 19: Castrojeriz to Frómista

      June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      Mileage: 16.5 miles
      Altitude gain: 840 feet (most of them all at once!)
      Altitude loss: 955 feet
      Weather: hot and sunny, but with a most welcome cloud cover at times. Rainy once we arrived in Frómista
      Total mileage: 226 miles

      It was a long day! After dropping down out of Castrojeriz and crossing some fields, it was a steep climb back up to the meseta, then a drop back down. It was also very sunny and warm today, which wore me out a bit, plus there weren’t many places to stop today, so we only had one break. I will say it was a very peaceful walk today, with no highway noise. Good to be off my feet this evening!

      1. Looking back over the valley and across to Castrojeriz on that mountain after our climb.
      2. Looking over the other side to the terrain for the rest of the day.
      3. I just love the poppies and can’t stop with the pictures of them.
      4. Still a variety of wildflowers along the trail, although we see new ones now.
      5. and 6. Midday cottonwood (?) forest.
      7. and 8. The meseta isn’t boring (to me, anyway) but it is very flat at times!
      9. We walked along the Canal de Castillo for the last few miles before Frómista.
      10. One last beer together before Angela has to leave tomorrow. It has been such a gift to have her here with me for the past two weeks.      Read more

    • WanderklebchenJakobsweg, Part 2
      Day 30

      29. Etappe: Fromista (25 km)

      November 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      Um 6 Uhr war heute die Nacht zu Ende, plötzlich ging das Licht an 🙈- viel zu früh für mich! Trotzdem ging es erst spät los, entspannt bei Sonnenschein. Zu Beginn rin kleiner Aufstieg, danach flach und am Ende entlang eines Kanals. Heute liefen Luiz, Clemens und ich den ganzen Tag entspannt gemeinsam und trafen ab und zu einige andere Pilger auf dem Weg. Dank der Empfehlung des Hospitalieros kehrten wir in der sehr gemütlichen kleinen Unterkunft Betania ein. Nach einen leckeren italienisch-französischem Abendessen freuen wir uns alle auf eine entspannte Nacht 😊Read more

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    • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
      1
      Day 18

      Hontanas to Frómista

      May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      Took a taxi at 7.30am from the mental hotel to the starting point. Had a good blether in Spanish with the driver, Antonio. Started walking and felt good straight away. Had a long day today and got a shorter day tomorrow... just cos of the difficulties getting accommodation. Bumped into Rowena and walked most of the day with her. Met Aleta again, probably won't see her until León. Made it into Frómista quite late but it's Sunday anyway......wenr into the church then managed to find a food place that opened at 8.30pm. Nice wee town.Read more

    • Camino
      1231
      Day 28

      Fromista (24.7km / 348km)

      May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

      Our roommates set their alarm for 5:20 and put the light on which I suppose helped us leave by 7am. We started with a steep hill climb which warmed us up on a chilly 6 degree morning. Immediately followed by a very steep decline (18%). Apart from a couple of picnic spots and a small mobile cafe there was a 11km walk to second breakfast in Itero de Vega. There was a small Ermitage de San Nicolas ( originally a pilgrim hospital). We had a salad lunch at Boadilla del Camino. We could easily have stopped there but had 5.6km to go. We were very pleasantly surprised with a beautiful path than ran alongside a canal the whole way. The canal was originally used to transport wheat but is now used for irrigation and leisure (ferry ride). It was so peaceful just hearing birds, frogs and the wind in the wheat (listen to video).
      There is not much to say about Fromista - a bit dead! It is the southern most city along the Camino Frances and the epicentre of wheat growing in Spain and has 3 churches!
      So far, the Maseta is not what we expected. It had been described as “desert like”. I think a better description would be “plains” but we will see …
      Only 1 restaurant was open before 8 so it was packed with pilgrims and the kitchen couldn’t cope. The others opened after 8. We were the only pilgrims at mass which got a bit awkward when we were called up for a blessing. The priest spoke in Spanish but we seemed to understand each other. He seemed happy we were there and were married! He looked a bit like a Ruggier, my (Ant) moms family.
      We need an early start tomorrow as we haven’t booked accommodation. We want to stay at a Parochial (Parish) hostel which is first come first serve.      Read more

    • Mick ByrneCamino Frances 2022
      Day 3

      Castrojeriz to Fromista 25kms

      April 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

      I enjoyed the Albergue Rosalia last night. We arrived mid afternoon absolutely frozen and soaked to the bone. Thankfully I got a bed next to the stove in the attic and was able to thaw my bones out and get my kit dry.
      The weather continued to be atrocious so I did not venture out. Dinner was a communal meal with 20 other pilgrims from all over the world.
      It was an early night for me wrapped up in my sleeping bag. This morning I was up and prepared by 05.45am and beat everyone to the toilets before the remaining 29 peregrinos raced for the three toilets in the Albergue 😬.
      Keith and I had breakfast and we’re on the trail by 7am. The weather was much the same as yesterday - lashing rain and 4C. This is not the Spain I know.
      Today we were walking 25kms to Fromista across the Meseta which is supposed to be flat. After 2.5kms we had heart attack hill at around 350m and back down onto the plains. We were in the rain clouds and we really could feel it. All the water obviously ran downhill onto the trail and turned the clay path into thick gloopy mud.
      We basically put and heads down and walked talking about everything.
      We quickly arrived cold and wet in Fromista around midday. I have my own room. The weather caught up with us. It is a Baltic 4C and lashing/sleeting (am I selling this to you?).
      I’ve had a beer and a bite to eat and I am just going to relax. The village is trying to have a fiesta in the main square. Bless them, it is a miserable affair in this weather.
      Tomorrow is a short 19kms with the promos of better weather. I have bought provisions for tomorrow because you really can’t be sure that there will be any restaurants or cars open. It’s Spain so you have to plan ahead.
      This was day 3 on the Camino Frances      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      Day 22

      Hontanas to Puente Fitero 19k. 6 hrs

      September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Another beautiful walk through the Meseta…..except it’s not as flat as we thought it was. Had a 1000m ascent and a 350 m decent. But the weather was just perfect for a morning uphill hike. No shadows on the Meseta and by the afternoon the sun is scorching. So we stopped at 1:30 at the albergue we are most excited about. An ancient pilgrim hospital!! It has no electricity. Dinner is currently cooking and it smells heavenly. (Italian tonight) Will put up a post just about the albergue after dinner.Read more

    • TravelerCamino Santiago de Compostella
      Day 21

      On top of Alto de Mosterales

      June 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

      Stephanie was in my albergue at Hornillos del Camino. She is 1/2 British and 1/2 German but she lives in Cyprus (the Greek side).
      For a long time her parents were missionaries in Turkey and then they moved the family to Cyprus. Their missionary organization now does broadcasting on 4 channels as well as social media and they proclaim Gospel to the people of Africa and Middle East 👍❤️
      Stephanie works behind the scenes doing various data gathering and analysis
      I thought it was cool      Read more

    • TravelerCamino
      11
      Day 19

      Day 18, Castrojeriz to Fromistra

      June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      I was a bit daunted by the length of today’s walk - it was supposed to be 25km but turned out to be 26 - nonetheless it was a joy. It began with a steep climb up
      the Alto de Mostelares but we coped with our early morning workout and enjoyed the views at the top across the Meseta. (Our photos don’t capture the effort involved in the ascent). We were both hungry before we reached our first town (about 11km in) so we took an earlier break at a picnic stop and ate our yogurts, spreading out our nuts, seeds, fresh and dried fruit without the worry we feel when we try to eat our own (healthier) food at a cafe when we buy coffee. The view was sublime - we ate and marvelled at the cloud formations in front of us.
      Everyday I’m struck by how varied the countryside is. Today we had bouts of bright sunshine with brilliant blue skies, and moments of muted light and Eric Ravillous-like landscapes. There was even a forest! We both wish we could draw or paint pretty much every day.
      Coffee stops were enlivened by encounters with Camino friends - and Fiona was delighted to find a bowl of vegetable soup - a rare vegan treat!
      We walked today for about 7 and a half hours, including 3 breaks, but there was never a moment when it felt too much. This might be because we are now so fit - but more likely because the majority of the walk was flat and the weather, once more, was blessedly cool.
      I’m hugely grateful my feet are holding up though I remain paranoid and change into a very attractive pair of Jesus sandals with socks in the course of every walk.
      The approach to Fromista where we’re staying tonight ran by the side of a canal, built in the 18th century to facilitate the transportation of grain from this region. It added a last touch of variety to the final kilometres.
      There’s a church here built in 1066 - I found it’s simplicity rather beautiful and loved the carvings on the capitals.
      Dinner tonight was with our Canadian friends, Sheryl and Janice who only have two days walking left. They hope to return to complete the Camino another year.
      One last thought. Tonight we caught a glimpse of a rare sight on our Camino travels - children. I’ve been missing them. Fromista is a proper town where families live but I’ve been fretting about the absence of children in the little medieval villages we’ve passed through in the last two and a half weeks. Seems sad to me.      Read more

    • TravelerThe Camino
      11
      Day 19

      More layered landscapes on the wonderful

      June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Another perfect day of big skies, no rain and warm but not hot temperatures. Castrojeriz to Fromista.
      The Camino provided so many gifts today. More of my treasured layers landscapes, new birds (great reed warbler, stone chat), frogs, 11th century churches and a great vegan albérgue - tho this was at lunch time unfortunately still leaving me with a less than vegetarian evening meal.
      After a steep climb we passed another monastery albergue, this time run by the Italian Confraternity. Tiny and candlelit but not quite so ruined. Again I’d love to stay there if I am lucky enough to be able to walk again.
      Mostly flat earth paths today so easy walking - but totalling about 26 km. Amazingly didn’t feel tired at the end but I’m very tired now.
      Tiny albergue tonight (Vicus) in Fromista but we have our own room.
      Dinner with Sheryl and Janice - great company - food not so much but my fault as I chose wrong.      Read more

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