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Across Europe
  • Simon Randfield
abr. – jun. 2023

Across Europe

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  • Simon RandfieldAcross EuropeViajante
    411

    Raufoss

    27 de maio de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    I felt a degree of apprehension heading beyond Oslo. I couldnt quite put my my finger on it. Size/ distances? Route choices that could have big impacts? Mapping software doesn't cope with Norway so well giving unreliable climbing totals? Less accomodation choice? Trolls? And, of course, the weather? Not sure what, but it meant I was up early and jettisoned my original plan for some more Oslo sightseeing to get on the road. Perfect cycling conditions today- cool, sunny, easy cycle ways/ quiet roads - and , at last, a tail wind!! Just as well as 140km with significant climbing and some gravel ahead- but that was on the recommendation - and to get to the home of- Pierre, my warm showers host tonight. And what a brilliant route he suggested, away from the main drag alongside the E6 and into the back country. The gravel was smoother than most Scottish roads and the tail wind fairly blew me to the top! The first roadside snow. And perfect timing as the clouds were gathering and the first few heavy drops of rain fell 100m from my destination.
    Time "to stop and smell the roses " with lunch at a posh hotel. ( the only option, honest!) a chill amongst some lakeside hyttes and a chat to a mad Latvian who insisted on free coffee and ice cream when my bank card didn't work. Moose warning signs but no moose ( mooses? Mice??). Fantastic hosts here in Raufoss: Pierre a font of knowledge on route choices with a map obsession almost as severe as mine    Leia mais

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    Ringebu

    28 de maio de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Well I had to dig deep today. I'm just starting to get my head around the scale of everything here. The first lake was huge - could have spent all day cycling around it. At is head- and after a mere 60k - is Lillehammer- winter Olympic venue 1994. So surrounded by all things wintery- lifts, snow , people ski roller skating ( is that what it's called?). The mountains are everywhere, their snowy tops peeping over the steep valley sides, all feeling ominous. I can sort of see why the believe in Trolls around here... Headwind all the way again today. Although not so much climbing it felt uphill every pedal stroke of the way. I soon was running alongside the E3, busy enough and not made for cyclists. Detours to avoid this involved steep valley sides, often on gravel. After Lillehammer I was alongside the even busier E6, with even bigger hillier gravelier detours. A key bridge had a span missing forcing even more of the same. Not a happy cycling day today. However the day was rescued by the strange accomodation at Frya Lair- with a very helpful host who felt sorry for me when I heard the restaurant was not open- and even friendlier trio is Oslo guys driving their beloved vintage Cadillac back fro Bodo. They plied me with beer which softened the blow when my phone completely crashed. Made me realise just how dependant I am in one tiny thing. Thank you Helen for accepting my panicked call at 5.30am and working out a fix!Leia mais

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    Savalen

    29 de maio de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    A big big day . A monster climb- the biggest& steepest of the whole trip- straight from the breakfast table 🤢. Halfway up the light rain turned to light snow and I started to question my light weight approach. A perfectly placed cafe allowed for a lot of faffing . Going uphill kept you warm but the brief descents were awful. What made the day was meeting a fellow nordkaap bike tourer -and the chat kept us going. He was a fixed itinerary so didn't stand for my faffing. Reluctantly I headed back out into the elements, and fortuitously, the weather eased going over the plateau and improved thereafter. We even had mostly tail winds!! Holiday Monday here so no other eateries/ shops at all until around 100km. Anyone who knows me knows that doesn't suit my cycling raison d'etre!! The last 20 km were uphill / undulating gravel going deeper and deeper into the forest- even passed a place called Nordpolen ( wonder if mr Amundsen cheated a wee bit?). Arrived at the hotel to a sign saying HOTEL SHUT! A phone call clarified " we tried to call you..." Anyway the guy turned up and either felt sorry for me or realised if he didn't open up the hotel I was following him home!! So I have the keys to a 50 bed 4star hotel !! He's thrown dinner in with the cover price, and allowed me to use the spa! Result!!Leia mais

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    Roros

    30 de maio de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I awoke to a beautiful , still, blue sky day. Fantastic views from my hotel window across the lake. After breakfast a wee dip in the jacuzzi again before eventually setting off . The scenery was very reminiscent of the Cairngorms XL- especially Rothiemurchus- but without clouds or midges. It warmed up quickly too and it wasn't long before I'd swapped into my short sleeved top . What a difference a day makes!! Today was a very short ride- possibly the shortest day of the whole trip, certainly the easiest with a light tail wind following me up the steady incline to Roros. Saw an eagle. Managed to waste some time by following one of the cycle computers "redirections" which ended up as a forest fight...
    Frustratingly unable to take advantage of the fine conditions today as there was no accomodation for at least another 100km. But legs happy to stop after a mere 70km. Anyhow , accomodation tonight is somewhat fitting as it's in a rehabilitation centre! If they have spare beds they rent them out!! Imagine the NHS (a) having spare beds and ( b) wanting to stay in them!! Advantages include walk in showers, adjustable beds and emergency pull cords for room service ( I think that's what she said...). Disadvantages. - maybe having to manage the stairs unaided and make my breakfast before I'm allowed to carry on...
    Roros is an UNESCO listed old mining town with very typical architecture: lovely on a sunny day    Leia mais

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    Trondheim

    31 de maio de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    What a difference a day makes? Yeah right...Delayed start as I had to wait for my discharge letter. In the end I self discharged so unfortunately didn't get my discharge meds including " man up" tablets and big boy hosiery: I needed both today. Cold and windy and a little bit wet to start with. Then very windy/ gusty. Then heavy rain just in time for the first big descent so I arrived in Alen soaked and freezing. Fortunately there was a cafe but it took 2 coffees ( and2 cakes) to warm up. Back off into the rain. Still 70km to Storen. The valley was stupendous ( I think) following a huge angry river- fortunately down hill all the way. Though windy it wasnt quite as bad as I envisaged- the valley shielded the wind rather than funnelled it. Just as well as the rain persisted . When it was t raining it was ... raining. Soaked through at Storen for a very uninspiring late lunch. No where to stay the first place I could find was15 km short of Trondheim (at 145km) so might as well push on to Trondheim. Look on the bright side: it doesn't get dark til 11 +.Relative lack of photos dictated by conditions- wasn't much desire to stop / get vital electrics wet. Up until this point this blog was written in a cafe 15k short of Trondheim. A bit miserable wasn't it? Now I'm in Trondheim I feel a bit more positive! Either the power of achievement , a hot shower or the Belgian waffle I had🤔
    For the record, that was my longest day in the saddle- 7hrs30. And thinking numbers- my totals are now 5807km distance and 49,953m climbing    Leia mais

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    Trondheim

    1 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Life-min and tourism day. Bike mechanics didn't have capacity to service bike which is creaking a bit but allowed me space in their workshop to degrease/ regrease, fix gears and change brake pads. Useful to have a couple of professionals next to me whilst I faffed! Went to find the worlds only cycle lift ( see photo) : closed for winter . It's June guys! Ah yes, it's Norway... the old wharf buildings on their wooden pillars were pretty between the squalls. Very windy and cold ( forecast said 6deg/ feels like 2deg🥶) . Very unseasonal. Just when I thought I'd had my fill of continental gothic, the Nidaros Cathedral was stunning. Military museum less thrilling tho some interesting WW2 occupation things. Then the iconic Rockheim museum of Norwegian popular music: who'd have guessed it would take less than an hour to look around that...?
    Anyway, think I need to get back on the bike as I cant afford to wander around touristy things all day.    Leia mais

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    Afjord

    2 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Interesting how keen I was to get moving this morning. I think I've become a bit habituated to riding my bike. Still cold and breezy, but forecast for mostly dry. I think I can cope with cold, rain, wind , distance, hills and lack of food but not more than 3 at the same time. Like a cycling bingo: if it's a full house, I'm staying put.
    Today started with a ferry across Trondheim Fjord and then immediately onto a steep hill with a ridiculous gravel alternative which cut out all the zig zags. Unfortunately, generally you dont know this until you're halfway up the hill. Fresh legs and a coffee helped, also chatting to some Swiss cyclists also going to Nordkaap- the feeling of comradary is definately helpful. I also realise how little conversation I can have on a day to day basis, so when I meet someone I'm an irritating chatterbox.
    Today was short leg to Afjord ( that's the name of the place , not just a dismissive "another fjord" statement) where I have the offer of a warm shower host. Slightly annoying geography as it forces a longer than ideal day tomorrow with a poor forecast. The scenery is 3rd division Norwegian costal scenery but was still pretty impressive- lakes , trees and mountains in a variety of combinations. Saw an eagle, a goose and a frog. Nice cafe at the end but zilch on the way. As recommended I hung out in the impressive community centre- funded by a wind farm to appease the Sami on land they have their reindeer. Had my first sauna of the trip. And very social chat it was with locals and visitors alike. Relaxed evening with Robert and wife before retiring to bed listening to the wind howling and the rain pelting down in the roof...    Leia mais

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    Namsos

    3 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Interesting to see how unkeen I was to get going this morning....Last nights weather had got into my head. However- places to go, football matches to see so off I set into the driving drizzle. Wet within 5 mins but warm enough if I kept moving. Just as well as only stop in the first 100km was a crappy petrol station cafe for crap hot dog/ crap coffee/ chocolate at 70km. The middle part of the ride was , likely, a stunning glaciated coastline- to me reminiscent of Diabeg. However I couldn't see much and what was generally a helpful wind was wild and in my face on the coast. Water was the common theme of the day -lakes, fjords and coast line, big waterfalls and small waterfalls, everywhere dripping and a thick wet blanket of cloud. A forced March for the last 30 km or so to get to my accomodation gave me time to watch some of the FA cup final: something to cheer about on a somewhat dreary day! And , for the record, I'm now past 6000k and 50,000m🤪Leia mais

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    Foldereid

    4 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    A day of 2 halves. In the morning it was dry!! Passing through Namsos town I realised I'd missed the Namsosfestivalen - the gig of the year and instead I found myself cycling through the debris of the morning after. Namsos ( I now know) has a particular role in the history of Norwegian rock music. Oh well: not sure I was in the mood for head banging last night. Onwards and northwards and the dry weather allowed me to stop for some photos. Unfortunately this meant I just missed the ferry that split my day. Fortunately the 2.5 hours til the next were easily passed in a great cafe with a sudden congregation of cycle tourists, Danish,German, Swiss - and British- all swapping stories.
    However getting off the ferry the weather had resorted to the norm and low cloud with drizzle was the theme of the second part of the day. Noteable happenings were 1. Seeing my first two mooses ( moose, mice? What is the plural?) and 2. Being driven off the road by a d**k in a ford mustang. Fortunately no injuries/ damage: just a bit freaked.    Leia mais

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    Bronnoysund

    5 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    A dry day at last!! Well , it did involve a few squalls, but I'm going to call that dry for Norway! An interesting overnight at "Graceland " with Grace herself ( check out Grace Eboue on Spotify..) with a quiet gettaway ( Grace didnt promise to be up to see me off as, as an artist, she has to follow her muse and can't always be available. I presume, then, she was up all night penning her opus.) Impressive scenery through tight fjords, where it looked like the glacier had just squeezed through last week. No cafe as per the map, but met Ole and partner bike tourers from yesterdays ferry, who offered me some porridge and fresh coffee from their Road side campsite. Then the only real hill of the day 100 m or so up the side of the impressive looking ( in the guidebooks) Heilhornet. A few scary tunnels then lunch on the ferry which included the obligatory waffle/ brown cheese/ jam and cream: the Norwegian equivalent of the Calmac full Scottish. The route got increasingly flatter and the weather increasingly accomodating so good time was made to the sprawling mess of Bronnoysund and another night in an anonymous cheap hotelLeia mais

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    Sandnessjoen

    6 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Another day of 2 halves!! A reluctant start into the rain but delayed as there was a promise of the rain being light and passing through. Of course in Norwegian terms that meant a good drenching , cold and not easing up. Had a mini strop with my disappointment which became a major strop when I missed the ferry by 5 mins.
    However Lady Luck was not far away. Firstly a brilliant cafe and with home roasted coffee where I sat in a corner in my own little puddle getting recaffeinated. Then the rain stopped. A trip to the local museum where a strange man started to ask me questions then asked if I would like to meet the king and queen. Not really sure what he was on about I declined as I was quite keen to catch the ferry I'd already been waiting 2 hours for... Turns out it was a genuine offer: as I left the museum the king and queen arrived in the village ( at least I think it was them, certainly minimal pomp and circumstance in these parts!)
    But I had a ferry to catch. Could that have been my sliding doors moment? Instead I spent the ferry with Jan the mad German cycle tourer and we cycled a wee way together. The sun was out, I was vaguely dry and getting drier . At one point I even had my jacket off!! I'd already booked a hotel before Warm Showers host Havard had got back to me but he offered to give me dinner: cod tongues, a local delicacy and quite yummy in a gelatinous vaguely fishy sort of way.    Leia mais

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    Nesna

    7 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Half a day . 50% of the day is still enough time to get 100% wet. However, I've managed to crawl a few km further north. And filled the rest of the day with eating. Probably was a bit psyched by the forecast heavy rain( only had " light" rain so far..) and windy with gusts, with a big high bridge to cross . As is usually the case, it's never as bad as you think. There's a lesson in there somewhere, kids.Leia mais

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    Polar Camp

    8 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Nesna camping cabins were a bit disappointing but I had a choice of 4 beds and with the heater on max, soon got warmed up and dried out. It was also very sociable with several groups of cyclists all drying out and heading north.
    A leisurely start allowed any lingering rain to clear and slowly Norway revealed itself in all its grandeur. As a mountain lover I was like a kiddie in a sweet shop and struggled to maintain momentum with constantly stopping to take photos and " smell the roses"😉
    Each turn revealed more and more vertiginous mountains and ridiculously photogenic islands. The sun transformed the colour of the sea to aquamarine. A cool wind picked up into a tough head wind but it was worth it! Today also was marked by several long tunnels- indeed I probably spent 10% of the day underground! One more modern one had a cyclist alert light that you press before entering the tunnel to warn other road users that you are there: how thoughtful. I made a brief stop to explore an old German gun emplacement and warren of tunnels from the "Atlantic Wall". And just before the camping hut at the end of the day I crossed the arctic circle! A sure sign of progress....    Leia mais

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    Reipa

    9 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    another stunning day! Despite planning an early night I stayed up for the midnight sun... which was rather like the sun at any other time of day. That said, I'm quite happy to still see it!! I also planned a leisurely start but my cycling buddies cohort all had plans for the first ferry and a wee touch of FOMO grabbed me so I was up with the larks too. And what a stunning morning: beautiful reflections across the becalmed fjord as we crossed the arctic circle on ferry #1.
    Then followed two 30km legs around different fjords with a ferry inbetween and a critical one at the end of the day to get me back to civilisation. Each fjord conjured up a different mix of vertiginous peaks , waterfalls and impossibly pretty clapperboard fishing huts. However I arrived at ferry#2 to see marked inactivity and to hear that the ferry wasn't working and it would be maybe mid afternoon before a replacement would be available ( sounds a bit cal-Mac-y?? Think you spoke too soon,Krish). Oh dear! Not a chance of getting ferry#3 and likely a struggle to find accommodation. After some discussion a friendly Norwegian tourist decided he should flag down a motor boat to give me a lift and 10 minutes later there I was being blasted across the fjord! The kindness of strangers!
    Inevitably, the next leg was stunning - up an arrow straight freshly scoured glaciated valley.... and back down the other side. 20km cycled, 1km further north! However Ferry #3 was caught with ease and allowed an early finish in my hytte ( cabin) on the campsite. Now I'm within striking distance from Bodo, a rest day or two, and the arrival of Ewen.    Leia mais

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    Bodo

    10 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Cancelled ferries and punctures dispersed our loosely knit group and I was back on the road in a solo breakaway by 7am. Windless and cloudless. Amazing. Had to stop and swap to my short sleeved top- even changed my gloves to fingerless to top up my knuckle tan lines! The first tunnel had an optional detour up the old road which was recommended but a steep 200m. Debatable benefit as I'd only been passed by 2 cars in the first 10k. However it was worth it as I bumped into Nicole and Jessica where they had camped and managed to cadge a coffee on the end of their breakfast. Just as well as there was nothing but mountains and fjord until saltstraumen- the biggest / fastest malestrom in the world. I was prepared to be unimpressed , as I was their close to the tide turning but wow! What chaos and power!! . That left me just 30k of urban sprawl into the metropolis that is Bodo. Good to know I can still do a 120km day in good time. And the early start meant I got here before the bike shop closed and I managed to get my front tyre replaced. But too late for most shops/ activities- even the tourist information- which is now closed til Monday!! Footie tonight and a rest day tomorrow😊Leia mais

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    Bodo.2

    11 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    leisurely day . Recovery after an historic night in Istanbul!! Sunday and virtually everything is closed. No cycling!! The weather became increasingly wild and probably the combination of rain and strong gusting winds would have been near impossible to cycle in anyway. Later in the afternoon I ventured out to the impressive aviation museum. However as European city of culture 2024 I wasn't over impressed with any cultural depth ... street art and the distant sound of Bodo-Glimt playing at home is about as cultural as it seemed to get...Leia mais

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    Bodo.3

    12 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Treading water awaiting Ewen's arrival. A few jobs done- picked up Ewen's bike, got my bike serviced. Managed to blag a free sauna in the harbour- with compulsory sea dip. Discovered the amazing bibliotek and a great coffee shop with WiFi and free refills( I think...) .caught up with the Dutch cycling couple. Planned and booked most of the rest of the trip.... and then, the most exciting thing of the trip ...Ewen arrived!! Hopefully bringing better weathervhh than that which greeted him at the airport! Onwards and Northwards!Leia mais

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    Lofoten: Stamsund

    13 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Wow! Words can't really do justice to this place! So you'll just get photos today

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    Svolvær

    14 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Unimpressed with the options for self catering dining when your "glamping" kitchenette means ..a kettle, we decided to forego the cup a soup and super noodle combo and have sushi in the pub next door. Despite " glamping" in a carpark next to a fish processing factory we slept well enough and we're on the road early doors. The route hugged the coast and was mainly flat and wind assisted, but the clouds cloaked the mountains all day and though dry, it remained cold. At Rorvik beach we deliberated about a detour off the surprisingly busy main road to Henningsvar. This turned out to be a great detour along an amazing road underneath increasingly vertiginous rocky peaks to a lovely ( if touristy) village. Touristy meant great food options so the remaining 30km to our destination went in a flash. The destination tonight was the marina in Svolvær where we met up with friends from Stirling, Brenda and Gordon on their yacht. How great to catch up with some familiar faces! We went for a sauna with compulsory harbour dips for all. Then a lovely evening with proper food aboard Reever.Leia mais

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    Stockmarknes

    15 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Slept on the boat last night and Gordon and Brenda continued to be perfect hosts feeding us a hearty breakfast. We then set off for a very dreich wander up the nearby Sherpa staircase- and beyond- onto the "very demanding path" which was , well, very demanding!! We turned back. Back to the boat for lunch then , reluctantly, we left the boat and the Callenders and back on the bike. Dreich weather continued, but it's never quite as bad as you think and with a light tail wind we made good time up to Fiskebol and the ferry to Melbu. By which time the sun had almost come out and, so nice to be on quiet roads again, we sauntered into Stockmarknes for dinner and zzzzs.Leia mais

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    Bo Andoya

    16 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Richard With hotel served up the best breakfast of the trip so far. It was so comprehensive that it extended, with a few discrete doggy bags, to snacks and lunch too. However it was never going to keep us off the bikes for long as this morning the sun was splitting the sky and the clouds had dispersed revealing a magnificent alpine panorama across the fjord. Various bridges hopscotched up the vesteralan islands and eventually onto Andoya. The alpine backdrop, glaciers and all, and the steady northerly head wind were constant companions today. Briefly saw some reindeer disappear into the bush .Food options very spread out so just as well we had our " picnic". Arrived at accomodation to find I'd booked for next Friday. Pretty stupid but , in my defence the first time in 70 + nights away. Fortunately able to accommodate us despite me being a numptie.
    Totals so far - distance 6954km, climbing 62,895m.    Leia mais

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    Senja

    17 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    What a lovely place to stay with Lisbeth in Bo. Particularly liked the magical woods. We didn't see anything more exciting than a hare but the light through the dwarf birch forest was lovely. Dinner and breakfast were of a different class than which I have become accustomed, with associated price tag. Blue skies all day concealed a tough northerly but the coastline was spectacular. Beautiful beaches with azure seas below a mountain escarpment straight from a Tolkien novel. Historical Sami sites incongruously alongside the Andoya space centre(!). Sea eagles. Then the ferry took us to Senja which felt like it should be the mainland but actually is one of norways biggest, least populated and wildest islands. Ice creams on arrival: Can you believe it!!Instantly we could feel the difference with deep fjords and steep fjord sides... not all with tunnels through them..😳
    Plus...another mention on radio 6 this morning, AND I passed 7000km- now 7011km😊    Leia mais

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    Sommaroy

    18 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Just when you thought it couldn't get any better... there was Senja. What an amazing island, especially the north west which has a series of spoke-like ridges between deep fjords and sandy bays. We traversed these like a roller coaster, sometimes with the help of tunnels, sometimes not. The hills were steep and the tunnels often long and cold, but all this was done under a faultless blue sky with the temperature cranked up to 20deg - and no wind. You could not ask for more perfect conditions.
    The mountains, once again, were beyond belief; I have run out of superlatives. They culminated in the wall of rock reaching out to the mountains of Hesten and Segla- vertically falling into the fjord on one side. So spectacular that we readily accepted a boggy side tramp to a better view point of this amazing ridge. Where the mountains were slightly less steep there were snow fields - even one small glacier, and multiple waterfalls. Some of the best beaches I've seen so far on this trip lay at their bases. Truely a mountain wonderland.
    We even saw reindeer today. The only fly in the ointment was concerns regarding the lack of food options along the way, but ewen spotted sengahopen which was a bit of a life saver ( or we would have been on the emergency brown cheese rations..). Crossing to Sammaroy was like arriving in a different world- beautiful sandy beaches almost crowded with the start of the Norwegian summer vacations . But this also signified the proximity of Tromso and the end of Ewen's journey tomorrow.    Leia mais

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    Tromso

    19 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another scorchio day. My theory is that when it's hot here it gets very hot as it doesn't cool down in the nighttime - because there isn't any night time. Early sauna and swim then a large breakfast with doggy bags and timed ride to perfection to pick up the allowed transit through some road works. At the front of the queue waiting were a couple of reindeer. Probably about as interesting for the locals as we might find spotting sheep. But we were happy. Brief glimpse of a sea eagle too. Dropped into the Tromso valley and immediately everything was busier . A couple of bridges took us to the Arctic cathedral, a fitting end to Ewen's journey.
    A bit of admin ensued- dropping off / sorting out bikes. Looks like my front brakes' hydraulics have a leak and are as good as useless: lucky it's all uphill from here🤪.    Leia mais

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    Lyngen

    20 de junho de 2023, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Great to have Ewen with me for the week- the best week of the whole trip- but all good things come to an end and I waved Ewen off to the airport and a return to the UK. There was even a brief consolation rain shower after he left- but it soon cleared and it remained warm all day. Tried to sort out front brakes- unsuccessful- but reassured they aren't likely to worsen and might improve....🤞.
    So a leisurely start and back over the bridge to the mainland. Fast heading south along the fjord then a nasty bit of
    shared main road before cutting off and up through the first range of mountains to the first ferry. Big waterfalls and rivers from very active snowmelt. Met Jan on the ferry and again as I arrived in Lyngseidet. Familiar here as this is where I stayed with Simon and Tom Kenny ski touring last year. Indeed Kavringtinden, where Si broke his leg, is perfectly framed from my bedroom window here at Magic Mountain Lodge . Magic indeed. I was assuming I would be less impressed by the mountains by now but they never cease to impress: now looking more alpine in nature.
    Went for a walk up the ridiculously steep Sherpa steps. Great views. Found a keg of " the worlds most northerly distillerys" product, and even more bizzare was the pop up library at the top- free coffee and biscuits.
    Of note todays leg was the first time in the whole trip where my destination was further south than my starting point!    Leia mais

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