Day 25 - Baiona to Vigo
5月28日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F
More photos and videos from today
Day 25- Baiona to Vigo
5月28日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
Distance on the Camino today: 19 miles.
Total distance walked today: 21.5 miles
Today we started very early, before the sun was even up, setting out around 6:00 a.m. so we could get ahead of the heat for what we knew would be a very long walking day. We began in the cool darkness of the morning, following the Camino along the coastline and around the bay as the sky slowly brightened. The route took us past the Bay of America and so many beautiful beaches, with calm water, overcast skies, and just enough cloud cover to make for comfortable walking conditions.
After about two hours on the trail, we finally found a small café open and stopped for a much-needed cup of coffee. We enjoyed cappuccinos and café con leche along with the breakfast our hotel had packed for us to take on the road. Very little was open that early, so the stop felt especially welcome. Along the way we passed lovely beach neighborhoods and charming plazas filled with trees and benches where people could relax and watch the waves rolling onto the shore.
As we continued through the area near Nigrán, the Camino briefly turned inland to cut across the base of a point before returning once again to the beaches. The walking was mostly easy, though there were a few steep climbs coming up from the shoreline back to the roads above. Around midmorning we stopped again in Cabo Estay for a short break and a refreshing limonada. By then we still had about 12 kilometers left to go, and many other peregrinos were beginning to catch up and pass us along the route.
One of the beaches we walked through was Playa de Samil, where preparations were underway for a special Armed Forces weekend celebration. There were signs of upcoming parades and activities all along the beach area, along with a very large military presence. We even stopped to talk with a group of soldiers who were setting up for demonstrations for the next day’s festivities. One of them joked that they were simply getting ready to “play in the sand.”
As we approached Vigo, the scenery gradually shifted from beaches to the massive harbor area along the Ría de Vigo. We passed enormous ships in dry dock, towering cranes, and every kind of nautical industry imaginable. Later, we walked through a beautiful park area full of life — people walking dogs, riding bikes, and children playing. It seemed like many school groups were out enjoying field trips and the warm weather before summer break.
By the time we finally reached our hotel, we were exhausted. Bob’s phone had died from using Google Maps all day, so we relied on my phone for directions, which may or may not have added a few extra kilometers to our journey! Still, we eventually made it to our simple but comfortable hotel, conveniently located across from an El Corte Inglés department store.
After resting our feet and taking showers, we headed back out for the evening to explore the city and enjoy the Armed Forces festivities taking place in Vigo. The city was buzzing with excitement because the King, Queen, and Princesses of Spain were expected to attend the celebrations the following day. Military bands representing all branches of the Spanish armed forces performed in the plaza before huge crowds, creating such a festive atmosphere.
Dinner ended up being an improvised tapas meal of roasted peppers, chicken fingers, caprese salad, and of course some Spanish beer. It was the perfect ending to another long but memorable day on the Camino — filled with beautiful coastal views, lively parks, military celebrations, and so many wonderful moments along the way.
Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
Day 26 - Vigo to Arcade
5月29日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
Distance - 16.5 miles
After a nice short stop in Vigo, we got up, enjoyed breakfast at the hotel, and then set out to navigate our way out of the city. That was no small feat (pun intended)! Vigo felt very European, with beautiful old multi-story buildings, impressive architecture, and winding streets. We made our way past both historic and newer homes, a high school that was still in session, and eventually found ourselves on less crowded roads. Along the way, we stopped for a bathroom break—and, of course, another cappuccino—before making a hard right turn that began a steep climb up the mountainside.
Not long after leaving Vigo, we encountered a group of Polish high school students. For the most part they were very disciplined, but they were still kids. They spent the morning singing, playing music, and having fun, which added a lot of energy to the trail.
We ended up leapfrogging with them for much of the climb. The students seemed to handle it pretty well, but the poor chaperones looked like they were just about done in by the time they reached the top. Many of the kids celebrated by simply lying down in the street to recover!
Once we reached the top, the trail leveled out into a series of rolling hills with plenty of shade and beautiful vistas. We passed a small but picturesque waterfall and continued through alternating sunny and shaded stretches until reaching the town of Redondela around the 15-kilometer mark. It seemed like a good place to stop for lunch. Unfortunately, the staff at the café we chose were not particularly friendly, but a cold drink and the lunch we had packed that morning made for a pleasant break nonetheless.
One of the more inspiring sights of the day was a young woman walking the Camino while pushing a stroller with a toddler and keeping pace with what looked to be a four- or five-year-old daughter. It certainly put our own complaints about the hills into perspective.
From Redondela, we faced another steady uphill climb toward Arcade. At one point, the route offered a choice: 360 meters at a 5% incline or 70 meters at a 15% incline. We chose the shorter but much steeper option. At the top was another memorial spot, followed by a long, gradual descent into town.
Our first impression of Arcade was that it seemed fairly quiet and unremarkable—a place to shower, eat, and sleep before tomorrow’s walk. That said, we may not have explored enough yet to uncover its charms. After a long, warm day on the trail, we were pretty well cooked and ready for some rest.
Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
Day 26 - Vigo to Arcade
5月29日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
More photos of today’s journey
Day 27 - Arcade to Pontevedra
5月30日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
Distance: 10.5 miles - ended with 13.5 miles for the day .
Today was a shorter day on the Camino—only 10.5 miles—but for some reason it felt longer than that. Since we didn’t have as many miles to cover, we were able to stay in bed until 6:30 a.m., which felt like a real luxury. We had our suitcases down in the lobby by 8:00 for transport to our next hotel, enjoyed a small breakfast, and then headed out.
As we left Arcade around 9:00 a.m., the cafés were just opening and beginning to fill with people enjoying their morning coffee. Before long, we started a fairly significant climb into a beautiful forested area. The overcast skies and cool temperatures made for perfect walking weather as we followed paths lined with lush vegetation, crossed gentle streams, and listened to birds singing in the trees.
One thing that was immediately noticeable today was how much busier the Camino had become. The Coastal Route and the Central Route merge at Arcade, bringing many more pilgrims onto the trail. In addition, Tui—100 kilometers from Santiago—is a popular starting point for pilgrims seeking the Compostela certificate, so there seemed to be walkers everywhere.
Not long after leaving town, we stopped at a small shop selling Camino souvenirs and pilgrim memorabilia. There I met Joe and Bee from San Juan Bautista, California, along with their traveling companions Veronica, Dave, and Dave’s mother, Theresa, from Folsom. It’s amazing how small the world feels when you run into people from home while walking across Spain.
After reaching the top of the climb, the trail descended toward Pontevedra. Along the way we came to a fork and chose the alternate “Accompanying Trail.” It was slightly longer, but absolutely worth it. The path followed a lovely stream through the forest and offered some of the prettiest scenery of the day. The only challenge was the abundance of tree roots crossing the trail—I swear some of them were actively trying to grab the soles of my shoes!
Along the route we passed locals selling Camino mementos and offering decorative wax stamps for pilgrims’ credentials. The combination of cool weather, beautiful forests, quiet farms, and flowing streams made for a very enjoyable day on the trail.
Eventually, we emerged from the alternate route and arrived at a square welcoming us to Pontevedra near the bus and train stations. After a quick stop at the pharmacy for some shoe inserts, we made our way to the hotel. With about a day and a half here, we are looking forward to exploring this charming city.
After a quick shower and a little time to freshen up, we met Gina near a plaza close to her hotel. We found a nice outdoor table and shared some delicious green Padrón peppers and tender octopus, accompanied by a cold beer and a glass of wine. It was the perfect way to relax and celebrate another day on the Camino.
Later, we took a leisurely stroll through Pontevedra’s old town, wandering along stone streets and through lively plazas filled with outdoor cafés. Families were out enjoying the beautiful Saturday afternoon, while children and dogs seemed to be everywhere. The city has such a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. We walked all the way to the Lérez River before stopping for a quick ice cream.
We met Gina for dinner at a restaurant called O Bioco, which is known for its oysters. We ordered six oysters, a plate of clams, and a nice bottle of white wine. I was a little leery about the food since I normally don’t eat anything uncooked, but the clams were delicious.
The oysters were for Bob and Gina. They were locally harvested from the Pontevedra area. Gina thought they were wonderful, but Bob wasn’t impressed and said they weren’t like the oysters from back home.
Gina also wanted to try barnacles, but they were only available in 300-gram portions, which would have been far too much. The restaurant owner was kind enough to bring us three barnacles to sample. I have to admit, they were actually pretty good, although they took a lot of work to open and eat!
The wine was excellent, and we had no trouble finishing the bottle.
After dinner, we walked through the streets of Pontevedra. The city was alive with people enjoying the evening. Children were running around playing, families were out strolling, and the atmosphere was wonderful. We also visited a church that had just finished Mass. It was beautiful inside, and Gina and I plan to attend Mass there tomorrow morning.
Now it’s time for some rest. We have a day off tomorrow, so we’ll spend more time exploring this beautiful city.
Till tomorrow!もっと詳しく
Day 27 - Arcade to Pontevedra
5月30日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F
More photos of today
Day 28- Rest day in Pontevedra
5月31日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F
Distance - 5.5 miles
Although today was officially a rest day on the Camino, we still managed to add about 5.5 miles to our journey while exploring the beautiful city of Pontevedra.
We got up early so we could make the most of our day. After breakfast, we headed out to do some much-needed laundry. Fortunately, laundry here is quick and easy, but I wanted to attend the 10:00 a.m. Mass, so Bob kindly stayed behind to finish the wash while Gina and I headed to the Igreja de San Francisco. The service was entirely in Spanish, so I felt right at home. After Mass, we met Bob in the plaza for a café con leche and began our day of sightseeing.
Gina had found a walking tour of Pontevedra, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. Our guide spent nearly two hours sharing the city's fascinating history, architecture, traditions, and symbolism. Bob even tried using my translation earbuds to follow along with the Spanish tour, although the experience was a bit hit-or-miss. Still, we learned a tremendous amount about the city and gained a new appreciation for its unique character. One thing became very clear—Pontevedra has a lot of plazas!
After the tour, we found a lively plaza where a local band was performing. The square was packed with people enjoying the sunshine, music, and conversation. We managed to find seats by sharing a table with fellow pilgrims Tom and Geri from New South Wales, Australia. As always, we ordered some delicious Padrón peppers, which are currently in season, along with drinks. We spent a couple of relaxing hours talking about our Camino experiences. They had been walking the Central Route, while we had followed the Coastal Route to this point. We even discussed the possibility of someday walking the Camino Francés.
Later in the afternoon, we wandered back through the winding streets toward our hotel. Although it was about a mile from the city center, we enjoyed exploring different neighborhoods and discovering new corners of the city along the way. After a short break to freshen up, we met Gina again for dinner. We enjoyed a wonderful meal of short ribs (which the menu called "little ribs"), fries, octopus, and salad. Everything was delicious.
We called it an early evening because tomorrow's stage will be one of our more challenging days, with a long climb of roughly 1,200 feet on the way to A Armenteira.
As always, another adventure awaits tomorrow.
Some Interesting History of Pontevedra
One of the most memorable stories from the tour was that of Ravachol, the famous parrot of Pontevedra. Ravachol was an African grey parrot owned by pharmacist Don Perfecto Feijóo, whose pharmacy stood in Plaza de la Peregrina. Living from 1891 to 1913, the bird became a local celebrity thanks to his witty personality. Stories say he would warn when customers entered the pharmacy and wouldn't let people leave without paying. When Ravachol died during Carnival season in 1913, the townspeople organized a large mock funeral in his honor. Today, his memory lives on through an annual Carnival tradition in which locals dress in black and recreate the parrot's funeral and "burial" as part of a citywide celebration.
We also visited Praza da Leña (Firewood Square), a charming medieval square that once served as the city's firewood marketplace. The square is surrounded by beautiful Galician buildings dating from the 15th to 18th centuries and features a striking stone cross that was relocated there in the 20th century.
In Plaza de España, we learned how Pontevedra's role as provincial capital transformed the area. Many older buildings were removed to make way for government buildings and the town hall. Nearby stands the impressive Monumento a los Héroes de Puente Sampayo, commemorating the Spanish victory over Napoleon's forces in 1809.
The tour also highlighted the many cruceiros, traditional stone crosses that are found throughout Galicia. It is estimated that between 12,000 and 15,000 of these crosses exist across the region, marking crossroads, churches, cemeteries, and important gathering places.
One particularly beautiful stop was the Real Basílica de Santa María a Maior. Built on high ground overlooking the river, it occupied a strategic position that allowed control of commerce and transportation. The church's elaborate exterior carvings and architectural details were remarkable. As we arrived, a group was performing music outside while parishioners gathered for the noon Mass.
We also visited the ruins of Santo Domingo, admired a monument commemorating the city's independence on June 8–9, 1809, and saw a unique building whose sides were covered with shingles for protection against the weather.
Near the end of the tour, we stopped in Plaza de Méndez Núñez to see the bronze statue of Ramón María del Valle-Inclán, one of Galicia's most celebrated writers. The life-sized sculpture portrays him as a stylish gentleman leaning casually on a cane outside a house whose library he once frequented.
Finally, we learned about the symbolism of the scallop shell, the enduring symbol of the Camino de Santiago. One of the most common interpretations is that the grooves of the shell represent the many pilgrimage routes that converge toward a single destination—Santiago de Compostela.もっと詳しく
Day 29 - Pontevedre to Armentaria
6月1日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F
Camino de Santiago- (Variante Espiritual)
Distance: Approximately 17
miles
We got a very early start this morning, leaving shortly after 6:00 a.m. for the long trek to Armenteira. As we left our hotel in Pontevedra and headed toward the main square to meet up with Gina, we passed a marker showing 64.5 km remaining to Santiago de Compostela. It was a meaningful reminder that, while we have come a long way, the journey is not quite over yet.
Today marked a transition from the Portuguese Central Route onto the Variante Espiritual (Spiritual Route), an alternate Camino route that ends at a small town built around a monastery. We left Pontevedra in darkness, following quiet streets illuminated only by streetlights. After crossing the Lérez River, we made our way through several upscale neighborhoods before finding the path leading to the new route.
The morning began with a few minor climbs and some very narrow trails as we approached the town of Poio. Upon entering town, we noticed signs for the Monastery of Poio and wandered down the driveway after spotting a large bus loading passengers. A bus full of people usually means coffee and food, and we were not disappointed. The monastery complex also appeared to operate as a hostel. Inside was absolutely beautiful and surprisingly modern chapel. We enjoyed hot drinks and fresh pastries before continuing on our way. The stop was especially welcome since we were only about 2.5 kilometers from Combarro.
Today’s walk featured a long, steady climb of well over 1,000 feet in elevation, and that wasn’t even the highest point of the day. There were some challenging rocky sections both on the ascent and the descent. At one point, Bob stopped to remove the legs from his hiking pants and convert them into shorts. Suddenly, what seemed like an endless stream of hikers passed us—at least 40 people, most of them about our age, all moving with far more energy than we thought possible.
Later, when we caught up with them, we learned they were part of a group of approximately 84 hikers from Madrid traveling together on a tour. When one member asked another whether the rest of the group would be taking the bus, everything clicked. They were the same people we had seen boarding the bus at the monastery in Poio! The climbs themselves were not especially difficult—just long and steady—or perhaps we’re finally getting stronger.
As we gained elevation, we were rewarded with beautiful views looking back over the bay. Before getting too far beyond Combarro, we came upon a fascinating scene: dozens of people preparing to go clamming. I stopped and talked to a lady who was getting ready to go clamming as she said , they are only allowed to begin at 10:00 a.m., can work for just four hours, and may collect only one kilogram of clams each. She said last year they were able to collect 10 kilograms but this year there is not too much to collect. Some wore full chest waders while others were dressed in shorts and sandals, but every one of them carried tools—shovels, rakes, and large tubs floating inside inner tubes. It was amusing to watch, but clearly serious business for the locals.
The trail itself was beautiful, winding through natural forest and grove after grove of eucalyptus trees. Along the way we continued seeing the striking purple flowers known as foxgloves. They are beautiful but highly poisonous, so it is probably a good thing we resisted the temptation to pick any or smell them too closely.
We also met Angela and her daughter Abbie from Ontario, Canada. They joined us for lunch later in Armenteira, and it was enjoyable sharing part of the journey with them.
Bob thought the descent into Armenteira wasn’t too bad, but I had a very different experience. The trail was steep and rocky, with large boulders that required careful maneuvering. At one point, my trekking poles slipped on a rock, and I nearly lost my footing. By the time we reached the bottom, our knees were definitely feeling the impact, especially from the narrow, uneven sections of the path.
Near the end of the descent, the trail followed a small stream for the last few hundred meters, providing a peaceful finish to an otherwise challenging stretch. Then, suddenly, the restaurant came into view. We arrived around 1:30 p.m. and were more than ready for a good meal. I enjoyed a mixed salad, while Bob had a surprisingly delicious hamburger.
After lunch we visited the monastery that gives Armenteira its identity. The monastery was simple and elegant, especially when compared to the much more ornate churches we have visited in larger cities. It remains an active monastery, although aside from signs requesting complete silence, we did not witness any religious activities. The monks are also responsible for maintaining the surrounding trails, which explains why many sections remain rugged, natural, and somewhat treacherous.
Because of the rough terrain and the lack of early morning light in this small town, getting an early start tomorrow will not really be an option. We are staying at a lovely bed-and-breakfast about two kilometers outside of town, with both dinner and breakfast included. It should make for a restful afternoon, especially since there is not much else to do here.
Unfortunately, our walking companion was only able to complete a small portion of today’s route. She was suffering from nausea and likely some dehydration, so she made the right choice and got a ride to Armenteira and her albergue. We are hoping she will be fully recovered for tomorrow’s stage, another 24-kilometer walk down to Villanova de Arousa.
History Note: The Variante Espiritual follows a route closely connected to the tradition of the Apostle Saint James. Pilgrims traveling this path eventually connect with a maritime route that commemorates the legendary journey of Saint James’s remains from the Holy Land to Galicia. The destination of today’s walk, Armenteira, grew around the Monastery of Santa María de Armenteira, a Cistercian monastery founded in the 12th century and still home to a small monastic community today.
Buen Camino !もっと詳しく
Day 29 - Pontevedre to Armentaria
6月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
Lots of pics from today ….
Day 29 - Pontevedre to Armentaria
6月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
More photos of today’s journey !
Day 30 - Armentaria to Villanova de Arousa
6月2日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
Distance: Approximately 17 miles
This morning we said goodbye to the beautiful Casa Prado de Carballo, where we had spent the night. Since we wanted to leave before breakfast was being served, Patricia, the owner of the casa, kindly prepared a picnic breakfast for us to take along. It was such a thoughtful gesture and a wonderful way to start the day.
We met our friend Gina at a nearby café and enjoyed a café con leche before beginning our hike. We had expected some rain after a light shower overnight, so we rearranged our backpacks to make room for rain jackets and umbrellas. As it turned out, the rain never came, but the cooler temperatures made for comfortable walking conditions.
The first several kilometers were some of the most beautiful we have experienced on the Camino. We followed the Armenteira River along the famous Stone and Water Route (Ruta da Pedra e da Auga), a lush, peaceful trail filled with the sounds of flowing water, small waterfalls, and birdsong. I found myself constantly stopping to admire the scenery and take photographs. The trail was incredibly serene, winding through dense greenery beside the river.
The route was not without its challenges. Wet rocks, exposed tree roots, and steep downhill sections demanded careful footing. More than once I was grateful for my trekking poles as we navigated the slippery terrain.
One of the highlights of the morning was seeing the many restored water mills that line the river. This trail is famous for its collection of traditional Galician mills, once used to grind corn using the power of the river. Dozens of these historic structures remain, nestled among moss-covered stones and cascading streams. We also passed the Aldea Labrega, a fascinating stone sculpture village depicting rural Galician life, complete with a church, granary, stone cross, and farm animals.
As we continued, the Armenteira River eventually joined the larger Umia River near Ribadumia. The landscape opened up, and we began passing vineyard after vineyard. The grapevines immediately caught our attention because they looked so different from the vineyards back home in California. Here, the Albariño grapes are grown on elevated pergola-style trellises called parras, with the vines suspended six to seven feet above the ground.
This unique system helps protect the grapes from Galicia's humid climate by improving air circulation, reducing fungal diseases, and maximizing sunlight exposure. The stone supports, made from local granite, are designed to withstand the region's constant moisture and salty Atlantic air. It was fascinating to see such a different approach to winemaking.
Although today's stage was supposed to be relatively flat, there were several steady climbs throughout the day. None were particularly difficult, but after so many miles our legs were feeling the accumulated fatigue. The trail seemed endless at times, and we joked that we were moving slower than a snail.
As we left the rivers behind and made our way toward Vilanova de Arousa, the weather alternated between cloudy and sunny. Just when it felt warm enough to switch to shorts, a cool breeze would roll in and convince us otherwise. Eventually we caught glimpses of the estuary, a welcome sign that our destination was drawing near.
Vilanova de Arousa derives its name from the Latin Villa Nova, meaning "new town," while "Arousa" refers to its location along the Ría de Arousa, Galicia's largest and most famous estuary. Historically, it developed as a new settlement along these beautiful coastal waters.
After what felt like countless "just a few more kilometers," we finally arrived at our hotel for the night. By then, all we could think about was a hot shower. It felt wonderful to wash off the day's dust and finally put our feet up.
Later, we set out in search of a drink and something to eat. There wasn't much nearby, so we ended up at the beachside bar directly in front of our hotel. The wind coming off the water felt quite chilly to me, so we quickly moved inside, enjoyed a light meal and a drink, and then returned to our room for some much-needed rest.
Tomorrow is a very short walking day, followed by the boat journey to Padrón as part of the Spiritual Variant of the Camino. I am excited for this next chapter of our pilgrimage and looking forward to learning more about its history.
Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
Day 30 - Armentaria to Villanova de Arousa
6月2日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
More photos of our journey today…
My mom and dad have been on my mind a lot during this journey through Spain. They have even appeared in my dreams several times, making me feel as though they are walking alongside me every step of the way.
Along the Camino, I keep noticing little things that remind me of them. One day I passed a pizza place named Carlos, and today I walked by a bar called Casa Chicha. Those aren’t names I would normally expect to see, and each time I come across something like that, it feels like a small sign from them.
Maybe it’s just coincidence, but for me these moments have been comforting reminders that they are still with me in spirit. As I continue this pilgrimage, I find myself thinking about them often, remembering the things they loved and the lessons they taught me. In many ways, it feels like they are sharing this journey with me.. ❤️❤️💔💔もっと詳しく
Day 30 - Armentaria to Villanova de Arousa
6月2日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
More photos and videos of today’s journey …..
Day 31 - Villanova de Arousa to Padrón
6月3日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
Distance - 7.5 miles includes walking around Padrón….
Another early morning was in store for us as we prepared to catch the boat that would take us along the Spiritual Variant of the Camino on the Río Ulla. We were up at 5:15 a.m. and on the road by 6:30. There wasn't much preparation needed this morning since our walking distance would be short. With our breakfast packed in a bag, we set off on the 1.5-kilometer walk from our hotel into the town of Vilanova de Arousa and down to the harbor. The weather was once again cool and cloudy, with a fairly good chance of rain later in the day.
We boarded the tour boat Bahía-Sub early, and it was a good thing we did. Shortly after we settled in, a group of 84 Spaniards arrived in a wave down the road toward the dock. We were grateful to already have our seats.
The boat trip to Padrón follows the famous Traslatio Route of the Camino de Santiago Spiritual Variant. This route retraces the legendary journey of the remains of the Apostle Saint James, which according to Christian tradition were transported by boat from Palestine to Galicia after his martyrdom. The journey takes pilgrims up the Ulla River, passing mussel farms known as bateas, the Viking towers of Catoira, and many of the ancient stone crosses that mark the traditional maritime route.
The term Traslatio refers to the transfer of Saint James's body. Tradition tells us that after years of preaching in Hispania, Saint James was martyred and beheaded by order of King Herod Agrippa around the year 44 A.D. His disciples placed his remains in a stone boat and, guided by divine intervention, made a miraculous seven-day voyage from the Holy Land to Iria Flavia, present-day Padrón.
As we traveled upriver, we began passing the famous stone crosses, or cruceiros, that line the route. These crosses form what is considered the world's only maritime Way of the Cross. There are seventeen in total, strategically placed on islands, riverbanks, and rocky outcroppings along the river. They serve as markers of the route believed to have been taken by the Apostle's boat, as monuments honoring the Traslatio, and as symbolic guideposts leading pilgrims toward Padrón and ultimately Santiago de Compostela.
For many pilgrims, these crosses hold special significance. They mark the beginning of the Santiago story in Galicia. Long before there was a pilgrimage route to Santiago, there was the arrival of Saint James's body at Padrón. That is why Padrón is often called the "Cradle of the Jacobean Tradition." Seeing these crosses from the water felt like traveling through one of the most important chapters in the history of the Camino itself.
One of the highlights of the journey was passing beneath the impressive Ulla Viaduct, an award-winning high-speed railway bridge spanning the Ulla River estuary. Stretching more than 1,600 meters in length, it set a world record upon completion for the longest main span of any composite railway bridge.
Overall, the boat ride lasted about an hour and a half and was thoroughly enjoyable. We passed the mussel farms and at least a dozen of the stone crosses before finally arriving in the small town of Pontecesures. Once ashore, our first mission was to find a café and warm up with a much-needed cup of coffee.
From Pontecesures, it was only a short walk into Padrón. As we entered town, we wandered through its quaint streets, narrow alleyways, and inviting plazas. Like so many towns along the Camino, the church stood at the heart of the community. Here, it was the Church of Santiago, built on a site deeply connected to the traditions surrounding Saint James.
With tomorrow's final walk to Santiago looming, we decided to take it easy. We enjoyed a late lunch and early dinner before returning to our hotel to rest our tired knees and prepare for the final stage of this incredible journey.
Tomorrow marks the last leg of our pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. For us the Portuguese Camino journey has lasted fifteen days and covered approximately 290 kilometers (180 miles), not including all the extra wandering through towns and occasional wrong turns along the way. Reaching Santiago will be a major milestone, but not the end of the adventure. After a couple of days there, we will continue westward for nearly another 100 kilometers over four days to Finisterre, following the ancient path to what was once believed to be the end of the world.
Buen Camino ! Santiago here we come….もっと詳しく
Day 31 - Villanova de Arousa to Padrón
6月3日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
More photos of today’s journey…
Day 32 - Padron to Santiago de Compostela
6月4日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F
Distance on the Camino - 18.5 miles
Total for today - 20.5 miles
There was something different about waking up this morning—an anticipation unlike any other day on the Camino. Sure, the knee pain was still there, the morning routine was familiar, and we still had our usual plan to meet up with Gina before starting the day. Our room sat directly across from the train station, and throughout the night we heard the trains coming and going. Knowing that one of those trains could take us directly to Santiago in just 35 minutes somehow added to the feeling that today was different. We weren’t taking the train though—we were walking the final leg.
We got an early start around 6:30 a.m. because we had about 25 kilometers ahead of us. A light drizzle and cool temperatures made for perfect walking weather. As we set out, there was a quiet excitement in the air. This was it—the last stretch to Santiago, the destination we had been working toward for weeks. This is where all the lines on the scallop shell converge, where pilgrims from different routes and different countries come together with a shared purpose.
The day itself was another beautiful reminder of what I would call “real life” in rural España. We followed paths that ran near the railway tracks, passed through larger towns and tiny villages, and watched everyday life unfold around us. Farmers tended their gardens and land. Chickens wandered through backyards while roosters announced the morning. Goats, dogs, cats, and beautiful horses peacefully grazed or rested nearby. We saw old stone homes standing beside renovated modern houses, each with its own story. Residents greeted us with smiles and friendly nods, seemingly unfazed by the endless stream of pilgrims passing through their communities.
As always, we took our time along the way, stopping at cafés for a café con leche and a chance to rest our feet. The occasional stop to remove a pebble from a shoe or simply catch our breath became part of the rhythm of the day.
There were noticeably more pilgrims on the trail today. Everyone seemed to be smiling, chatting, and energized by the fact that Santiago was finally within reach. People from all over the world walked together, often speaking different languages, yet somehow communicating perfectly through the simple greeting, “Buen Camino.” One of the greatest gifts of this journey has been meeting fellow pilgrims, hearing their stories, and sharing a few miles together. Those conversations always make the distance pass more quickly.
The route included several steep climbs, but after weeks of walking, our legs have grown stronger and more accustomed to the challenge. We felt confident tackling the hills, knowing exactly what awaited us at the end of the day.
Eventually, Santiago came into view. The first glimpse of the cathedral brought a surge of excitement, but there were still several kilometers to go. As the countryside gradually gave way to the city, sidewalks replaced dirt paths, and our feet certainly noticed the difference. We even made a brief stop at a phone store to replace the screen protector on my phone after countless drops along the Camino had left it covered in cracks and scratches.
As we approached the city center, it became clear that there were many different paths leading toward the cathedral square. It felt symbolic. Thousands of pilgrims had arrived by different routes, each carrying their own stories, struggles, and reasons for walking, yet all of those paths led to the same destination.
And then we entered the square.
There is something truly awe-inspiring about stepping into a place like that. Hundreds of people filled the plaza—individuals, couples, families, and groups—all celebrating their accomplishment in their own way. Some were emotional, some were reflective, and others were simply overwhelmed with joy. It was especially heartwarming to watch a large group of teenage girls singing together as they walked the final few hundred meters into the square.
We stopped for celebratory photos before making our way to the Pilgrims’ Office, where we received our Compostela certificates. Holding that certificate was a thrilling and emotional moment after all the miles we had walked. We also spent some quiet, reflective moments in the small chapel nearby before wandering through the city.
Tonight, Bob and I are celebrating in a very special way. We are staying for two nights at the Parador, a beautiful historic hotel dating back to 1908. It feels like the perfect place to mark the completion of this incredible journey. We are looking forward to enjoying a nice dinner, listening to music in front of the cathedral, and staying up later than our usual Camino bedtime of 8:30 p.m.
The day’s journey certainly took its toll. Our feet, knees, and legs are reminding us of every kilometer we have walked. The long distances, steep climbs, and challenging descents have tested us physically in ways we never imagined. Tonight, our bodies are ready for some well-earned rest.
As I reflect on today, my heart is filled with gratitude. God has blessed us with the health, strength, and opportunity to experience adventures like this. The Camino has challenged us, inspired us, introduced us to wonderful people from around the world, and reminded us how fortunate we are.
Tomorrow will be a rest day before we begin the next chapter of our journey—the Camino from Santiago to Finisterre. But tonight, we celebrate.
Buen Camino.もっと詳しく
Day 32 - Padron to Santiago de Compostela
6月4日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
Part 2 and more photos of today …..
After getting cleaned up and looking somewhat presentable again, we headed out for dinner. Gina had found a wonderful Italian restaurant, and it was absolutely delicious. It was the perfect way to celebrate after completing our journey to Santiago.
After dinner, we made our way to the Plaza de Obradoiro, where a concert was going to take place at 10 pm. The performers were a traditional "Tuna" group—university students dressed in the style of students from the 16th century. Accompanied by traditional instruments, they sang lively serenades that have been part of Spanish culture for centuries. It was so much fun singing along, clapping, and dancing to the music with everyone gathered in the square.
Since we didn't have an early wake-up call the next morning, we stayed out a little later than usual and were rewarded with another special sight. We got to see the famous Pilgrim Shadow (Sombra del Peregrino). As the streetlights illuminate the Cathedral at night, a mysterious silhouette resembling a medieval pilgrim carrying a staff appears on the stone walls of Praza da Quintana. Whether legend or optical illusion, it was such a fun and memorable experience to witness.
It was the perfect ending to an incredible day in Santiago.
Tomorrow, we rest, relax, and do a little shopping!もっと詳しく
Day 33 - Rest day in Santiago de Compostela
6月5日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
Distance walked around town: 6 miles
This morning we were able to sleep in until 7:30, which felt wonderful. No backpacks to pack, no feet to tape and prepare, and no rushing to eat breakfast before hitting the trail. Yay!
We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the Parador before setting out for our day in Santiago. Bob and I found a laundromat to tackle our pile of stinky Camino clothes. While Bob handled the washing and drying, I headed to the Cathedral to get tickets for the rooftop tour.
Since I arrived early, I wandered through town and did a little shopping. I found a special bracelet with a Camino shell on it, a perfect reminder of this incredible journey. When I finally got to the ticket office, there was already quite a line. Fortunately, I was able to snag the last two tickets for the 4:00 p.m. rooftop tour.
Later, we met up with Gina at the Cathedral for the noon Pilgrim's Mass, hoping we might be lucky enough to see the Botafumeiro swing. We arrived an hour early and were grateful to find seats. The Mass was in Spanish, so Bob couldn't follow the words, but having grown up Catholic, he was familiar with the rituals and flow of the service.
As the Mass was coming to an end, we were delighted to see the Botafumeiro being prepared. What an amazing experience! I loved the smell of the incense filling the Cathedral. We were especially appreciative of the individual or group who sponsored the ceremony because it allowed all of us to witness this special tradition.
The Botafumeiro is the famous giant censer of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Weighing approximately 53 kilograms (117 pounds) and measuring about 1.5 meters tall, it is swung by eight men known as tiraboleiros. The censer can reach speeds of nearly 68 km/h (42 mph) as it soars through the transept of the Cathedral. Historically, the incense helped purify the air when weary pilgrims spent the night inside the church after long journeys. Today, it is used on major religious feast days or when sponsored by donors.
After Mass, we visited the beautiful garden at Hotel Costa Vella, a peaceful oasis tucked away in the city. We relaxed with coffee, lemonade, and a beer while enjoying the quiet surroundings. Since there wasn't much food available, we later treated ourselves to some delicious ice cream.
At 4:00 p.m., it was finally time for the rooftop tour of the Cathedral. Unfortunately, I hadn't realized the tour would be conducted entirely in Spanish, so poor Bob had to rely mostly on the views and later research the history on his own.
The tour itself was fascinating. After climbing what felt like countless steps from the museum level, we emerged onto the Cathedral's rooftop. Unlike other cathedral tours we've taken in Europe, this one actually allows visitors to walk on the massive granite roofing stones themselves. Standing among the towers, examining the intricate architectural details up close, and looking down at the crowds, cafés, and plazas below was an unforgettable experience.
The rooftop offers a unique perspective on the Cathedral and its role in the Camino de Santiago. Construction of the Cathedral began in 1075, and for centuries it has been the spiritual heart of one of Europe's greatest pilgrimage routes. From above, it is easy to understand how Santiago grew around the shrine believed to contain the remains of Saint James the Apostle.
The rooftop also showcases the remarkable craftsmanship of the builders who combined Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles into a single structure. The granite terraces were designed to allow maintenance workers access to the roof while protecting the building from Galicia's frequent rains. From this vantage point, pilgrims can see the directions from which the various Camino routes approach Santiago and gain a deeper appreciation for the thousands of journeys that converge here.
Standing high above the city felt symbolic—a bird's-eye view of our own Camino. After weeks of focusing on each step, each hill, and each day's destination, it was meaningful to look out over Santiago and reflect on the entire journey that had brought us here.
With the wind blowing around us and the towers rising overhead, it was both exhilarating and humbling.
Afterward, we enjoyed an early dinner and returned to our room to make sure everything was packed for tomorrow's departure. Our next stop is the small town of Negreira on the Camino Finisterre. I plan to set out around 7:30 a.m., while Bob will take a well-deserved rest day to nurse his painful and swollen knee.
Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
Day 33 - Rest day in Santiago
6月5日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
More photos of today ….
Day 34- Santiago to Nigreira
6月6日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F
Distance: 15 miles
I didn't quite know what to expect from today's walk on the Camino to Finisterre, but it turned out to be a beautiful day on the trail.
I woke up at 6:00 a.m. to tape my feet and get my backpack ready for the day. After a nice breakfast at the Parador, I was on my way. Since my usual walking partners weren't feeling well enough to continue today, I set out on my own.
Before leaving Santiago, I stopped for a few more photos in front of the Cathedral. Then it was time to begin the next chapter of the journey.
I thought it was going to be cold, but I quickly discovered that the route started with a steady uphill climb. Within minutes I was warming up and was grateful that I had packed shorts to change into.
The route was hilly, but very manageable. One thing I was looking forward to was my second cup of coffee, but there weren't many cafés along the way. About five or six miles into the walk, I finally found one, and that coffee tasted especially good.
While there, I met a woman from Canada named Rebecca. We struck up a conversation, and after finishing our coffee, we decided to walk together for the rest of the day. We shared stories about our lives, our families, and our Camino experiences. The miles seemed to pass much more easily.
The scenery along the route was absolutely beautiful. We passed farms, tiny villages, and old stone towns that looked as if they belonged in a painting. One of the highlights was the village of A Ponte Maceira. The ancient stone bridge crossing the river was stunning, and the entire setting felt almost magical. We walked through shaded forests where the scent of eucalyptus filled the air, making the journey even more enjoyable.
There were certainly more uphill sections than I had expected, but since I never looked at the elevation map beforehand, maybe that was a good thing! Sometimes it's better not to know what's coming.
I made great time and arrived in Negreira around 1:00 p.m., where I was scheduled to meet up with Bob. I was pleasantly surprised to see him walking out of the hotel carrying a beer and some snacks. By then I was both hungry and thirsty. Even though he had originally bought the beer for himself, he generously handed it to me. I enjoyed it along with the sandwich I had packed at breakfast, and it tasted absolutely delicious after a long walk.
Now it's time to rest. Tonight's hotel may not be quite as grand as the Parador, but it will do just fine for one night. Tomorrow's stage is considerably longer, so I need to recharge and be ready for another day on the Camino.
Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
Day 34- Santiago to Nigreira
6月6日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
More photos of today …
Day 35 - Nigreira to A Picota
6月7日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
Camino to A Picota, Mazaricos
Distance: 21.88 miles
Today was a very long Camino day, but one that was incredibly rewarding.
Bob missed yesterday’s long walk from Santiago to Negreira, so he did not want to miss another stage. The morning began with my usual preparation routine—Voltaren, lambswool, bandaging tape, and a knee brace. After a traditional breakfast at our hotel, we were ready to go. Breakfast was simple, but we managed to quietly make a few sandwiches with bread, cheese, and ham to tuck into our backpacks for later. We would be very grateful for those sandwiches before the day was over.
We met up with a new friend Rebecca from Ontario, Canada, whom I had walked with the previous day. We met at the main roundabout in Negreira and set off together. Leaving town, we immediately began a long, steady climb uphill. It was a good test of how Bob’s knee would handle the day after a rest, and thankfully it felt much better than expected.
The scenery quickly changed as we left the town behind. We passed through quiet farm villages, beautiful eucalyptus groves whose familiar scent filled the air, and stretches of forest that seemed to go on forever. One noticeable difference on this Camino route is how much quieter it is. At times we would go long stretches without seeing another pilgrim, and when we did, it was often just a brief passing on the trail.
As we continued, the landscape opened into rolling hills, wheat fields, cornfields, and countless dairy farms. The day was sunny and bright, with temperatures in the upper 60s, making the countryside look even more beautiful. We stopped at a small albergue about five miles into our walk and enjoyed a second cup of coffee while giving our feet a much-needed break.
Services became fewer and farther apart as we moved deeper into the countryside, especially on a Sunday when many places were closed. By the time we reached another bar near Santa Mariña, we had already covered about 15 miles and over 31,000 steps. It was only the second place all day where we could stop for a drink and rest.
The walk itself was brutal. There seemed to be endless hills, and by afternoon our feet were definitely feeling every mile. Still, the higher we climbed, the more spectacular the scenery became. At one point we were nearly as high as the giant wind turbines that lined the ridges above us. The route to our hotel took us off the main Camino and added even more climbing, but the views made every step worthwhile.
One of the highlights of the day was seeing a group of teenage boys walking the Camino as part of their senior-year trip. They were polite, respectful, and clearly enjoying the experience together.
As we neared A Picota, I struck up a conversation with a young couple pushing a stroller with their toddler. They were from Córdoba, Argentina—the same city where my father was born. It felt like one of those Camino moments that seems too meaningful to be a coincidence. We chatted for a while on the trail, and later, after arriving at the hotel, I had the opportunity to meet the couple’s parents as well. We enjoyed a wonderful conversation about Argentina, and the Camino journey we were all sharing.
At last, after nearly eight hours of walking and only a couple of stops, we arrived in A Picota. After saying goodbye to Rebecca, who was staying elsewhere, we checked into our hotel and headed outside to enjoy a well-earned beer.
The Camino had another surprise waiting for us. Sitting outside, Bob recognized a family from California whom we had met earlier on the Portuguese Camino. What a joy it was to reconnect! We spent the evening sharing stories, laughs, and memories from our journeys. Rebecca joined us as well, and together we enjoyed a delicious dinner and great conversation.
As the evening came to a close, exhaustion finally caught up with us. Today had been one of the longest and most challenging stages of the journey, but also one of the most rewarding. The beautiful landscapes, new friendships, unexpected connections to my father’s homeland, and reunions with old Camino friends made every difficult mile worthwhile.
Tomorrow’s walk to Cee will be shorter, but with warmer temperatures expected, we’ll need to start early.
For now, it’s time for sleep and some much-needed rest.
Buen Camino!
While I was walking, Bob had some time to explore Negreira on his own. He discovered several historical sites and statues throughout the town, and I found the stories behind them both fascinating and meaningful. They offered a glimpse into the rich history and culture of this beautiful Camino town.
The Pazo do Cotón is a historic medieval fortress and stately manor located in the center of Negreira, Galicia. It is a renowned landmark along the Camino de Santiago (specifically the Way to Finisterre), famously serving as a reference point for pilgrims walking toward the Atlantic coast. The Pazo do Cotón located in Negreira is a stunning, centuries-old historic estate, distinguished by its stone walls and iconic defensive tower. It is most famous for its connection to the Camino de Santiago, featuring a stone gallery that bridges the historic pilgrimage route.
There was a stunning piece of artwork (dating back to 1997) The artwork pictured is the Monumento al Emigrante (Monument to the Emigrant). The realistic and dramatic monument pays tribute to the many locals from the region who were forced to leave their homeland in search of a better life abroad.
The Departing Man: The central bronze figure depicts a determined man walking away with a bundle over his shoulder. His lower legs seamlessly morph into tree roots anchored into the ground, symbolizing his deep, unbreakable ties to his native Galician soil.
The Reaching Child: A highly expressive child reaches out through an opening in the stone wall behind him, desperately clutching onto the man's clothes to represent the painful separation from family and loved ones left behind.
The Globe: Hovering directly above the stone wall is a globe, representing the worldwide destinations where Galician emigrants traveled. It serves as a key landmark for pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago route from Santiago de Compostela toward Fisterraもっと詳しく
Day 35 - Nigreira to A Picota
6月7日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F
More photos of today’s journey
Day 36 - A Picota to Cee
6月8日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F
Distance: 18.25 miles
Well, once again, the distance on our itinerary was wrong! We were supposed to walk only 14.25 miles today, but it ended up being much longer.
We left A Picota after a simple breakfast, but thankfully we got our coffee first—which is what I need most in the morning. Since we were staying off the Camino, we had to walk a couple of kilometers just to get back on the trail. Fortunately, it wasn’t too difficult.
Today’s journey felt much longer than the actual distance. We passed through a variety of landscapes, including stretches along the main road, and there were plenty of uphill and downhill sections that our legs were not too happy about. Some of the descents were especially challenging, with sharp rocks that required careful footing, and our feet definitely felt every step.
About halfway through the day, the rain arrived. Out came the rain gear and my trusty umbrella, which proved to be a saving grace once again. There were only a few places along the route where we could stop for refreshments and facilities, so we took full advantage of them, enjoying a café con leche and a lemonade before continuing on.
As we walked through a beautiful forest of eucalyptus trees, I started feeling a little weak. Bob and I decided it was the perfect time for a lunch break so we could nourish our bodies, rehydrate, and regain some energy for the miles ahead.
There were not many pilgrims on the Camino today. For most of the walk, it was just Bob and me, enjoying the quiet and solitude of the trail.
When we finally reached Cee, we were more than ready for a hot shower and some time with our feet up. After settling in, we headed down for a well-deserved beer before relaxing and resting until dinner. Dinner will be a little late tonight, even though we have another early start tomorrow, but that’s all part of the Camino experience.
Tomorrow is our final stage to Fisterra, and I couldn’t be more excited. I’m looking forward to spending the night at the lighthouse at the “End of the World.” Even better, we’ll be reunited with our friend Gina, who will join us for the walk to the lighthouse. It’s hard to believe we’re almost at the end of this incredible journey with Bob . I will continue my Camino to Muxía, which is approximately 18 miles (29 kilometers) from Fisterra along the Camino route.
Buen Camino 🥾🥾もっと詳しく
