Day 30 - Armentaria to Villanova de Arousa
2 de junho, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
More photos of our journey today…
My mom and dad have been on my mind a lot during this journey through Spain. They have even appeared in my dreams several times, making me feel as though they are walking alongside me every step of the way.
Along the Camino, I keep noticing little things that remind me of them. One day I passed a pizza place named Carlos, and today I walked by a bar called Casa Chicha. Those aren’t names I would normally expect to see, and each time I come across something like that, it feels like a small sign from them.
Maybe it’s just coincidence, but for me these moments have been comforting reminders that they are still with me in spirit. As I continue this pilgrimage, I find myself thinking about them often, remembering the things they loved and the lessons they taught me. In many ways, it feels like they are sharing this journey with me.. ❤️❤️💔💔Leia mais
Day 30 - Armentaria to Villanova de Arousa
2 de junho, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
Distance: Approximately 17 miles
This morning we said goodbye to the beautiful Casa Prado de Carballo, where we had spent the night. Since we wanted to leave before breakfast was being served, Patricia, the owner of the casa, kindly prepared a picnic breakfast for us to take along. It was such a thoughtful gesture and a wonderful way to start the day.
We met our friend Gina at a nearby café and enjoyed a café con leche before beginning our hike. We had expected some rain after a light shower overnight, so we rearranged our backpacks to make room for rain jackets and umbrellas. As it turned out, the rain never came, but the cooler temperatures made for comfortable walking conditions.
The first several kilometers were some of the most beautiful we have experienced on the Camino. We followed the Armenteira River along the famous Stone and Water Route (Ruta da Pedra e da Auga), a lush, peaceful trail filled with the sounds of flowing water, small waterfalls, and birdsong. I found myself constantly stopping to admire the scenery and take photographs. The trail was incredibly serene, winding through dense greenery beside the river.
The route was not without its challenges. Wet rocks, exposed tree roots, and steep downhill sections demanded careful footing. More than once I was grateful for my trekking poles as we navigated the slippery terrain.
One of the highlights of the morning was seeing the many restored water mills that line the river. This trail is famous for its collection of traditional Galician mills, once used to grind corn using the power of the river. Dozens of these historic structures remain, nestled among moss-covered stones and cascading streams. We also passed the Aldea Labrega, a fascinating stone sculpture village depicting rural Galician life, complete with a church, granary, stone cross, and farm animals.
As we continued, the Armenteira River eventually joined the larger Umia River near Ribadumia. The landscape opened up, and we began passing vineyard after vineyard. The grapevines immediately caught our attention because they looked so different from the vineyards back home in California. Here, the Albariño grapes are grown on elevated pergola-style trellises called parras, with the vines suspended six to seven feet above the ground.
This unique system helps protect the grapes from Galicia's humid climate by improving air circulation, reducing fungal diseases, and maximizing sunlight exposure. The stone supports, made from local granite, are designed to withstand the region's constant moisture and salty Atlantic air. It was fascinating to see such a different approach to winemaking.
Although today's stage was supposed to be relatively flat, there were several steady climbs throughout the day. None were particularly difficult, but after so many miles our legs were feeling the accumulated fatigue. The trail seemed endless at times, and we joked that we were moving slower than a snail.
As we left the rivers behind and made our way toward Vilanova de Arousa, the weather alternated between cloudy and sunny. Just when it felt warm enough to switch to shorts, a cool breeze would roll in and convince us otherwise. Eventually we caught glimpses of the estuary, a welcome sign that our destination was drawing near.
Vilanova de Arousa derives its name from the Latin Villa Nova, meaning "new town," while "Arousa" refers to its location along the Ría de Arousa, Galicia's largest and most famous estuary. Historically, it developed as a new settlement along these beautiful coastal waters.
After what felt like countless "just a few more kilometers," we finally arrived at our hotel for the night. By then, all we could think about was a hot shower. It felt wonderful to wash off the day's dust and finally put our feet up.
Later, we set out in search of a drink and something to eat. There wasn't much nearby, so we ended up at the beachside bar directly in front of our hotel. The wind coming off the water felt quite chilly to me, so we quickly moved inside, enjoyed a light meal and a drink, and then returned to our room for some much-needed rest.
Tomorrow is a very short walking day, followed by the boat journey to Padrón as part of the Spiritual Variant of the Camino. I am excited for this next chapter of our pilgrimage and looking forward to learning more about its history.
Buen Camino!Leia mais
Day 29 - Pontevedre to Armentaria
1 de junho, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
More photos of today’s journey !
Day 29 - Pontevedre to Armentaria
1 de junho, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
Lots of pics from today ….
Day 29 - Pontevedre to Armentaria
1 de junho, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F
Camino de Santiago- (Variante Espiritual)
Distance: Approximately 17
miles
We got a very early start this morning, leaving shortly after 6:00 a.m. for the long trek to Armenteira. As we left our hotel in Pontevedra and headed toward the main square to meet up with Gina, we passed a marker showing 64.5 km remaining to Santiago de Compostela. It was a meaningful reminder that, while we have come a long way, the journey is not quite over yet.
Today marked a transition from the Portuguese Central Route onto the Variante Espiritual (Spiritual Route), an alternate Camino route that ends at a small town built around a monastery. We left Pontevedra in darkness, following quiet streets illuminated only by streetlights. After crossing the Lérez River, we made our way through several upscale neighborhoods before finding the path leading to the new route.
The morning began with a few minor climbs and some very narrow trails as we approached the town of Poio. Upon entering town, we noticed signs for the Monastery of Poio and wandered down the driveway after spotting a large bus loading passengers. A bus full of people usually means coffee and food, and we were not disappointed. The monastery complex also appeared to operate as a hostel. Inside was absolutely beautiful and surprisingly modern chapel. We enjoyed hot drinks and fresh pastries before continuing on our way. The stop was especially welcome since we were only about 2.5 kilometers from Combarro.
Today’s walk featured a long, steady climb of well over 1,000 feet in elevation, and that wasn’t even the highest point of the day. There were some challenging rocky sections both on the ascent and the descent. At one point, Bob stopped to remove the legs from his hiking pants and convert them into shorts. Suddenly, what seemed like an endless stream of hikers passed us—at least 40 people, most of them about our age, all moving with far more energy than we thought possible.
Later, when we caught up with them, we learned they were part of a group of approximately 84 hikers from Madrid traveling together on a tour. When one member asked another whether the rest of the group would be taking the bus, everything clicked. They were the same people we had seen boarding the bus at the monastery in Poio! The climbs themselves were not especially difficult—just long and steady—or perhaps we’re finally getting stronger.
As we gained elevation, we were rewarded with beautiful views looking back over the bay. Before getting too far beyond Combarro, we came upon a fascinating scene: dozens of people preparing to go clamming. I stopped and talked to a lady who was getting ready to go clamming as she said , they are only allowed to begin at 10:00 a.m., can work for just four hours, and may collect only one kilogram of clams each. She said last year they were able to collect 10 kilograms but this year there is not too much to collect. Some wore full chest waders while others were dressed in shorts and sandals, but every one of them carried tools—shovels, rakes, and large tubs floating inside inner tubes. It was amusing to watch, but clearly serious business for the locals.
The trail itself was beautiful, winding through natural forest and grove after grove of eucalyptus trees. Along the way we continued seeing the striking purple flowers known as foxgloves. They are beautiful but highly poisonous, so it is probably a good thing we resisted the temptation to pick any or smell them too closely.
We also met Angela and her daughter Abbie from Ontario, Canada. They joined us for lunch later in Armenteira, and it was enjoyable sharing part of the journey with them.
Bob thought the descent into Armenteira wasn’t too bad, but I had a very different experience. The trail was steep and rocky, with large boulders that required careful maneuvering. At one point, my trekking poles slipped on a rock, and I nearly lost my footing. By the time we reached the bottom, our knees were definitely feeling the impact, especially from the narrow, uneven sections of the path.
Near the end of the descent, the trail followed a small stream for the last few hundred meters, providing a peaceful finish to an otherwise challenging stretch. Then, suddenly, the restaurant came into view. We arrived around 1:30 p.m. and were more than ready for a good meal. I enjoyed a mixed salad, while Bob had a surprisingly delicious hamburger.
After lunch we visited the monastery that gives Armenteira its identity. The monastery was simple and elegant, especially when compared to the much more ornate churches we have visited in larger cities. It remains an active monastery, although aside from signs requesting complete silence, we did not witness any religious activities. The monks are also responsible for maintaining the surrounding trails, which explains why many sections remain rugged, natural, and somewhat treacherous.
Because of the rough terrain and the lack of early morning light in this small town, getting an early start tomorrow will not really be an option. We are staying at a lovely bed-and-breakfast about two kilometers outside of town, with both dinner and breakfast included. It should make for a restful afternoon, especially since there is not much else to do here.
Unfortunately, our walking companion was only able to complete a small portion of today’s route. She was suffering from nausea and likely some dehydration, so she made the right choice and got a ride to Armenteira and her albergue. We are hoping she will be fully recovered for tomorrow’s stage, another 24-kilometer walk down to Villanova de Arousa.
History Note: The Variante Espiritual follows a route closely connected to the tradition of the Apostle Saint James. Pilgrims traveling this path eventually connect with a maritime route that commemorates the legendary journey of Saint James’s remains from the Holy Land to Galicia. The destination of today’s walk, Armenteira, grew around the Monastery of Santa María de Armenteira, a Cistercian monastery founded in the 12th century and still home to a small monastic community today.
Buen Camino !Leia mais
Day 28- Rest day in Pontevedra
31 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F
Distance - 5.5 miles
Although today was officially a rest day on the Camino, we still managed to add about 5.5 miles to our journey while exploring the beautiful city of Pontevedra.
We got up early so we could make the most of our day. After breakfast, we headed out to do some much-needed laundry. Fortunately, laundry here is quick and easy, but I wanted to attend the 10:00 a.m. Mass, so Bob kindly stayed behind to finish the wash while Gina and I headed to the Igreja de San Francisco. The service was entirely in Spanish, so I felt right at home. After Mass, we met Bob in the plaza for a café con leche and began our day of sightseeing.
Gina had found a walking tour of Pontevedra, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. Our guide spent nearly two hours sharing the city's fascinating history, architecture, traditions, and symbolism. Bob even tried using my translation earbuds to follow along with the Spanish tour, although the experience was a bit hit-or-miss. Still, we learned a tremendous amount about the city and gained a new appreciation for its unique character. One thing became very clear—Pontevedra has a lot of plazas!
After the tour, we found a lively plaza where a local band was performing. The square was packed with people enjoying the sunshine, music, and conversation. We managed to find seats by sharing a table with fellow pilgrims Tom and Geri from New South Wales, Australia. As always, we ordered some delicious Padrón peppers, which are currently in season, along with drinks. We spent a couple of relaxing hours talking about our Camino experiences. They had been walking the Central Route, while we had followed the Coastal Route to this point. We even discussed the possibility of someday walking the Camino Francés.
Later in the afternoon, we wandered back through the winding streets toward our hotel. Although it was about a mile from the city center, we enjoyed exploring different neighborhoods and discovering new corners of the city along the way. After a short break to freshen up, we met Gina again for dinner. We enjoyed a wonderful meal of short ribs (which the menu called "little ribs"), fries, octopus, and salad. Everything was delicious.
We called it an early evening because tomorrow's stage will be one of our more challenging days, with a long climb of roughly 1,200 feet on the way to A Armenteira.
As always, another adventure awaits tomorrow.
Some Interesting History of Pontevedra
One of the most memorable stories from the tour was that of Ravachol, the famous parrot of Pontevedra. Ravachol was an African grey parrot owned by pharmacist Don Perfecto Feijóo, whose pharmacy stood in Plaza de la Peregrina. Living from 1891 to 1913, the bird became a local celebrity thanks to his witty personality. Stories say he would warn when customers entered the pharmacy and wouldn't let people leave without paying. When Ravachol died during Carnival season in 1913, the townspeople organized a large mock funeral in his honor. Today, his memory lives on through an annual Carnival tradition in which locals dress in black and recreate the parrot's funeral and "burial" as part of a citywide celebration.
We also visited Praza da Leña (Firewood Square), a charming medieval square that once served as the city's firewood marketplace. The square is surrounded by beautiful Galician buildings dating from the 15th to 18th centuries and features a striking stone cross that was relocated there in the 20th century.
In Plaza de España, we learned how Pontevedra's role as provincial capital transformed the area. Many older buildings were removed to make way for government buildings and the town hall. Nearby stands the impressive Monumento a los Héroes de Puente Sampayo, commemorating the Spanish victory over Napoleon's forces in 1809.
The tour also highlighted the many cruceiros, traditional stone crosses that are found throughout Galicia. It is estimated that between 12,000 and 15,000 of these crosses exist across the region, marking crossroads, churches, cemeteries, and important gathering places.
One particularly beautiful stop was the Real Basílica de Santa María a Maior. Built on high ground overlooking the river, it occupied a strategic position that allowed control of commerce and transportation. The church's elaborate exterior carvings and architectural details were remarkable. As we arrived, a group was performing music outside while parishioners gathered for the noon Mass.
We also visited the ruins of Santo Domingo, admired a monument commemorating the city's independence on June 8–9, 1809, and saw a unique building whose sides were covered with shingles for protection against the weather.
Near the end of the tour, we stopped in Plaza de Méndez Núñez to see the bronze statue of Ramón María del Valle-Inclán, one of Galicia's most celebrated writers. The life-sized sculpture portrays him as a stylish gentleman leaning casually on a cane outside a house whose library he once frequented.
Finally, we learned about the symbolism of the scallop shell, the enduring symbol of the Camino de Santiago. One of the most common interpretations is that the grooves of the shell represent the many pilgrimage routes that converge toward a single destination—Santiago de Compostela.Leia mais
Day 27 - Arcade to Pontevedra
30 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F
More photos of today
Day 27 - Arcade to Pontevedra
30 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
Distance: 10.5 miles - ended with 13.5 miles for the day .
Today was a shorter day on the Camino—only 10.5 miles—but for some reason it felt longer than that. Since we didn’t have as many miles to cover, we were able to stay in bed until 6:30 a.m., which felt like a real luxury. We had our suitcases down in the lobby by 8:00 for transport to our next hotel, enjoyed a small breakfast, and then headed out.
As we left Arcade around 9:00 a.m., the cafés were just opening and beginning to fill with people enjoying their morning coffee. Before long, we started a fairly significant climb into a beautiful forested area. The overcast skies and cool temperatures made for perfect walking weather as we followed paths lined with lush vegetation, crossed gentle streams, and listened to birds singing in the trees.
One thing that was immediately noticeable today was how much busier the Camino had become. The Coastal Route and the Central Route merge at Arcade, bringing many more pilgrims onto the trail. In addition, Tui—100 kilometers from Santiago—is a popular starting point for pilgrims seeking the Compostela certificate, so there seemed to be walkers everywhere.
Not long after leaving town, we stopped at a small shop selling Camino souvenirs and pilgrim memorabilia. There I met Joe and Bee from San Juan Bautista, California, along with their traveling companions Veronica, Dave, and Dave’s mother, Theresa, from Folsom. It’s amazing how small the world feels when you run into people from home while walking across Spain.
After reaching the top of the climb, the trail descended toward Pontevedra. Along the way we came to a fork and chose the alternate “Accompanying Trail.” It was slightly longer, but absolutely worth it. The path followed a lovely stream through the forest and offered some of the prettiest scenery of the day. The only challenge was the abundance of tree roots crossing the trail—I swear some of them were actively trying to grab the soles of my shoes!
Along the route we passed locals selling Camino mementos and offering decorative wax stamps for pilgrims’ credentials. The combination of cool weather, beautiful forests, quiet farms, and flowing streams made for a very enjoyable day on the trail.
Eventually, we emerged from the alternate route and arrived at a square welcoming us to Pontevedra near the bus and train stations. After a quick stop at the pharmacy for some shoe inserts, we made our way to the hotel. With about a day and a half here, we are looking forward to exploring this charming city.
After a quick shower and a little time to freshen up, we met Gina near a plaza close to her hotel. We found a nice outdoor table and shared some delicious green Padrón peppers and tender octopus, accompanied by a cold beer and a glass of wine. It was the perfect way to relax and celebrate another day on the Camino.
Later, we took a leisurely stroll through Pontevedra’s old town, wandering along stone streets and through lively plazas filled with outdoor cafés. Families were out enjoying the beautiful Saturday afternoon, while children and dogs seemed to be everywhere. The city has such a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. We walked all the way to the Lérez River before stopping for a quick ice cream.
We met Gina for dinner at a restaurant called O Bioco, which is known for its oysters. We ordered six oysters, a plate of clams, and a nice bottle of white wine. I was a little leery about the food since I normally don’t eat anything uncooked, but the clams were delicious.
The oysters were for Bob and Gina. They were locally harvested from the Pontevedra area. Gina thought they were wonderful, but Bob wasn’t impressed and said they weren’t like the oysters from back home.
Gina also wanted to try barnacles, but they were only available in 300-gram portions, which would have been far too much. The restaurant owner was kind enough to bring us three barnacles to sample. I have to admit, they were actually pretty good, although they took a lot of work to open and eat!
The wine was excellent, and we had no trouble finishing the bottle.
After dinner, we walked through the streets of Pontevedra. The city was alive with people enjoying the evening. Children were running around playing, families were out strolling, and the atmosphere was wonderful. We also visited a church that had just finished Mass. It was beautiful inside, and Gina and I plan to attend Mass there tomorrow morning.
Now it’s time for some rest. We have a day off tomorrow, so we’ll spend more time exploring this beautiful city.
Till tomorrow!Leia mais
Day 26 - Vigo to Arcade
29 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
More photos of today’s journey
Day 26 - Vigo to Arcade
29 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
Distance - 16.5 miles
After a nice short stop in Vigo, we got up, enjoyed breakfast at the hotel, and then set out to navigate our way out of the city. That was no small feat (pun intended)! Vigo felt very European, with beautiful old multi-story buildings, impressive architecture, and winding streets. We made our way past both historic and newer homes, a high school that was still in session, and eventually found ourselves on less crowded roads. Along the way, we stopped for a bathroom break—and, of course, another cappuccino—before making a hard right turn that began a steep climb up the mountainside.
Not long after leaving Vigo, we encountered a group of Polish high school students. For the most part they were very disciplined, but they were still kids. They spent the morning singing, playing music, and having fun, which added a lot of energy to the trail.
We ended up leapfrogging with them for much of the climb. The students seemed to handle it pretty well, but the poor chaperones looked like they were just about done in by the time they reached the top. Many of the kids celebrated by simply lying down in the street to recover!
Once we reached the top, the trail leveled out into a series of rolling hills with plenty of shade and beautiful vistas. We passed a small but picturesque waterfall and continued through alternating sunny and shaded stretches until reaching the town of Redondela around the 15-kilometer mark. It seemed like a good place to stop for lunch. Unfortunately, the staff at the café we chose were not particularly friendly, but a cold drink and the lunch we had packed that morning made for a pleasant break nonetheless.
One of the more inspiring sights of the day was a young woman walking the Camino while pushing a stroller with a toddler and keeping pace with what looked to be a four- or five-year-old daughter. It certainly put our own complaints about the hills into perspective.
From Redondela, we faced another steady uphill climb toward Arcade. At one point, the route offered a choice: 360 meters at a 5% incline or 70 meters at a 15% incline. We chose the shorter but much steeper option. At the top was another memorial spot, followed by a long, gradual descent into town.
Our first impression of Arcade was that it seemed fairly quiet and unremarkable—a place to shower, eat, and sleep before tomorrow’s walk. That said, we may not have explored enough yet to uncover its charms. After a long, warm day on the trail, we were pretty well cooked and ready for some rest.
Buen Camino!Leia mais
Day 25- Baiona to Vigo
28 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
Distance on the Camino today: 19 miles.
Total distance walked today: 21.5 miles
Today we started very early, before the sun was even up, setting out around 6:00 a.m. so we could get ahead of the heat for what we knew would be a very long walking day. We began in the cool darkness of the morning, following the Camino along the coastline and around the bay as the sky slowly brightened. The route took us past the Bay of America and so many beautiful beaches, with calm water, overcast skies, and just enough cloud cover to make for comfortable walking conditions.
After about two hours on the trail, we finally found a small café open and stopped for a much-needed cup of coffee. We enjoyed cappuccinos and café con leche along with the breakfast our hotel had packed for us to take on the road. Very little was open that early, so the stop felt especially welcome. Along the way we passed lovely beach neighborhoods and charming plazas filled with trees and benches where people could relax and watch the waves rolling onto the shore.
As we continued through the area near Nigrán, the Camino briefly turned inland to cut across the base of a point before returning once again to the beaches. The walking was mostly easy, though there were a few steep climbs coming up from the shoreline back to the roads above. Around midmorning we stopped again in Cabo Estay for a short break and a refreshing limonada. By then we still had about 12 kilometers left to go, and many other peregrinos were beginning to catch up and pass us along the route.
One of the beaches we walked through was Playa de Samil, where preparations were underway for a special Armed Forces weekend celebration. There were signs of upcoming parades and activities all along the beach area, along with a very large military presence. We even stopped to talk with a group of soldiers who were setting up for demonstrations for the next day’s festivities. One of them joked that they were simply getting ready to “play in the sand.”
As we approached Vigo, the scenery gradually shifted from beaches to the massive harbor area along the Ría de Vigo. We passed enormous ships in dry dock, towering cranes, and every kind of nautical industry imaginable. Later, we walked through a beautiful park area full of life — people walking dogs, riding bikes, and children playing. It seemed like many school groups were out enjoying field trips and the warm weather before summer break.
By the time we finally reached our hotel, we were exhausted. Bob’s phone had died from using Google Maps all day, so we relied on my phone for directions, which may or may not have added a few extra kilometers to our journey! Still, we eventually made it to our simple but comfortable hotel, conveniently located across from an El Corte Inglés department store.
After resting our feet and taking showers, we headed back out for the evening to explore the city and enjoy the Armed Forces festivities taking place in Vigo. The city was buzzing with excitement because the King, Queen, and Princesses of Spain were expected to attend the celebrations the following day. Military bands representing all branches of the Spanish armed forces performed in the plaza before huge crowds, creating such a festive atmosphere.
Dinner ended up being an improvised tapas meal of roasted peppers, chicken fingers, caprese salad, and of course some Spanish beer. It was the perfect ending to another long but memorable day on the Camino — filled with beautiful coastal views, lively parks, military celebrations, and so many wonderful moments along the way.
Buen Camino!Leia mais
Day 25 - Baiona to Vigo
28 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F
More photos and videos from today
Day 24 - Rest day in Biaona.
27 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F
More pictures from today…
One fun surprise today was seeing a group of classic cars called The Morgan Club traveling through Spain together. These beautiful vintage-style cars really turned heads and looked absolutely stunning parked along the grounds at the Paradir.
Of course, no relaxing day would be complete without ice cream! We found a great little shop and enjoyed some amazingly good gelato. My favorite was the Ferrero Rocher flavor — rich, creamy, chocolatey, and absolutely delicious!Leia mais
Day 24 - Rest day in Biaona!
27 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F
Distance – 6.5 miles (just walking around this small city)
Today was a rest day, and we took full advantage of it by sleeping in until 8:30. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast around 9:00 a.m., then decided to take a small stroll around the Parador in Baiona, Spain 🇪🇸.
We stayed close to the hotel and wandered through sections of the Old Town — mostly restaurants, ice cream shops, and little stores tucked along the streets. We also took two scenic walks around the fortress: one along the top of the ancient walls and another below them along the shoreline. Both were over a kilometer each, so we still managed to get some “shoe time” in today. Most of the pictures are from those walkabouts.
What we continue to find amazing is the incredible amount of history here — not only in Baiona, but throughout the Camino in general. Much of it was probably covered in World History class years ago, but actually standing in these places, reading the backstories, researching the sites, and seeing their historical significance firsthand gives everything a completely different feeling.
Christopher Columbus was an Italian navigator and explorer whose voyages across the Atlantic changed world history. Sailing under the sponsorship of Spain, he was searching for a westward route to Asia but instead reached the Americas in 1492.
Columbus departed from the Spanish port of Palos de la Frontera on August 3, 1492, with three ships:• Niña• Pinta• Santa María
After stopping in the Canary Islands for repairs and supplies, the expedition crossed the Atlantic. After weeks without seeing land, the sailors grew nervous, fearing they might never return home.
On October 12, 1492, land was finally sighted — likely an island in today’s Bahamas. Columbus believed he had reached islands near Asia, so he called the local people “Indians.”
The Santa María later ran aground on Christmas Day 1492 and could not be saved. Columbus left some of his men behind at a settlement called La Navidad before returning to Spain.
One fascinating connection here in Baiona is that there is a true-size replica of the Pinta docked in the harbor. Historically, the Pinta arrived in Baiona in 1493 carrying the news of the discovery of the New World.
The Parador itself has some remarkable history of its own, along with several impressive monuments and statues throughout the property.
But aside from the history, the day itself was simply beautiful — sunny skies, an occasional cool breeze, and interesting people everywhere. Bob met an elderly couple from North Carolina who travel throughout Spain often and shared some wonderful stories of their adventures here. I was tired and fighting a cold so I too a nice afternoon nap .
Tonight will be a quiet evening — probably just tapas, a drink, and an early bedtime since tomorrow starts early. We’ll be up around 5:00 a.m. to leave for Vigo by 6:00 a.m. in hopes of beating the heat on what is expected to be about a 27 km walking day.
Hasta mañana, rumbo a Vigo!
A little history of the Parador de Baiona:
The Parador de Baiona is a luxurious hotel set within the medieval walls of the Monterreal Fortress. Half ancient fortress and half Neo-Gothic Galician manor, it is historically famous as the place where La Pinta docked in 1493 bearing news of the discovery of the Americas.
Key Historical Milestones:• 11th–17th Century: The Monterreal Peninsula served as a bustling fortified coastal town. Due to its strategic maritime location, it endured frequent attacks, most notably repelling Sir Francis Drake’s raid in 1585.• 16th Century: The Count of Gondomar, Don Diego Sarmiento de Acuña, transformed much of the fortress into the imposing structure seen today.• 19th Century: Its military role officially ended in 1859, and after years of decline, the site reopened as a Parador hotel in 1966.
Architectural Highlights:Today, the Parador de Baiona beautifully blends military history with aristocratic elegance.
• The Grand Entryway: A majestic ancient stone staircase welcomes guests in the reception area.• The Towers: The fortress walls are flanked by three historic towers, including the Torre del Príncipe, the oldest tower, which once served as a lighthouse.• The Grounds: Enclosed by nearly three miles of medieval walls, the property features seaside walking paths, pine groves, breathtaking Atlantic Ocean views, and vistas of the Cíes Islands.
This place is truly magnificent, and we feel blessed to have the opportunity to stay in such a historic hotel.Leia mais
Day 23 - Oia to Baiona
26 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F
Distance - 16.5 miles
Today started early once again as we tried to get a head start on the day. We took a cab from A Guarda back to Oia to pick up where we had left off yesterday on the Camino. The taxi picked us up at 7:30 a.m., and within 20 minutes we were standing at our starting point for the day. After spending so much time walking that stretch yesterday, the cab ride back felt disappointingly short.
Our cab driver was very talkative and shared bits of local history along the way. Bob tried using a translator app, but it couldn’t quite keep up with the fast Spanish conversation happening between Gina, the driver, and me. Instead, Bob spent the ride Googling some of the history of the area on Wikipedia, which turned out to be pretty interesting.
After a couple of kilometers of walking, we stopped at the Hotel Glasgow for a cappuccino and a slice of traditional bizcocho cake — oh my goodness, it was delicious! The weather was cool and overcast, though thankfully not nearly as heavy or rainy as yesterday. Temperatures were expected to climb into the mid-to-upper 70s later in the day, perfect walking weather.
A while later, Bob ended up separating from Gina and me after we stopped at a campground café for yet another yummy coffee break. Bob continued ahead walking with a South African woman we’ve run into several times along the Camino named Danette. They kept up a pretty steady pace, following the coastline, occasionally dropping into small residential neighborhoods, and somehow always finding another uphill climb waiting for them.
Bob later walked the last kilometer or so with a very friendly older couple from the Florida Keys who originally came from Southern California. Meanwhile, both Gina and I eventually faced a very same steep set of hills as the trail cut across a small peninsula before descending into Baiona. Along the way we once again encountered remnants of an old Roman road, complete with visible cart ruts worn into the stone — fascinating to see, although also perfect places to twist an ankle!
As we came off one hill and prepared to tackle the second, we met up with Bob at a charming outdoor patio café called Casa de Pexes. The promise of a bathroom stop and a credential stamp quickly drew us in. It turned out to be a wonderful little resting place with snacks, drinks, and several other peregrinos relaxing before continuing onward. Pablo the cat also seemed completely unbothered by the constant stream of pilgrims coming and going.
After climbing the next significant hill, the trail moved through a more rural area before beginning another ascent along a roadway leading toward Baiona. From the crest of the hill, we were rewarded with incredible views of the harbor, the town, and the impressive fortress known as the Parador de Baiona. Amazingly, our hotel for the night was located inside the fortress walls themselves!
At this point, our feet and legs were screaming for a break from the Camino — and thankfully, here it was. The harbor area was absolutely beautiful, and we were excited to see the famous replica of the La Pinta, one of Christopher Columbus’s three ships that returned to Spain carrying news of the discovery of the New World. Due to a massive storm, the ship landed right here in Baiona, forever tying the town to that moment in history.
When we arrived at the Parador de Baiona, we were completely blown away by how beautiful it was. We sat outside on the patio enjoying refreshing drinks while soaking in the incredible views and the realization that tomorrow would finally be a rest day.
Later, Bob and Gina headed off to the laundromat to wash our much-needed dirty clothes, while I happily chose the far better option — taking a nap and relaxing for a while. (Hehe!)
That evening, after showers and getting dressed up a bit, we headed to Rocamar for a wonderful dinner overlooking the water. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset that didn’t happen until nearly 10:00 p.m. Since tomorrow is our rest day, we were finally able to stay up late without worrying about rushing out early in the morning.
Hasta mañana!
A little history about Baiona, our destination today: Baiona is an ancient Galician coastal town famously known as the first place in Europe to receive news of the discovery of the Americas. Originally settled by Celtic tribes and later occupied by the Romans, the town became an important maritime and trading hub during the Middle Ages. In 1201, King Alfonso IX granted Baiona a royal charter, helping establish it as a prosperous port city.
The impressive Monterreal Fortress, dating back to the 11th century, protected the town from pirates and foreign attacks for centuries — even successfully defending against Francis Drake in 1585. Today, the fortress serves as the beautiful Parador de Baiona hotel where we are staying tonight.Leia mais
Day 23 - Oia to Baiona
26 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F
More photos of today
Day 22 - Caminha to Oia
25 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
More photos of today…
Day 22- Caminha to Oia
25 de maio, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
So we left the hotel in Caminha around 8:00 a.m. and took a very short walk down to the riverfront to a small water taxi provider called Popeyes. This was a tiny single-engine, open-bow boat carrying only five passengers and two crew members, used to ferry pilgrims across the Miño River into Spain. The wife of “Popeye” — and no, it wasn’t Olive Oil — explained to us that the river is normally very shallow here, especially during low tide. Sand from the Atlantic constantly filters into the mouth of the river, making the channel difficult to maintain, and neither Portugal nor Spain seems willing, or able, to spend the money necessary to dredge it.
After a quick ride across the river, we arrived at a small boat ramp near the village of A Pasaxe, just outside of A Guarda. From there, we began a steady climb and soon found ourselves on a serene forest path. The soft dirt and layers of fallen leaves beneath our feet felt like heaven after days of walking on unforgiving cobblestones. It was peaceful and quiet, and as we warmed up our legs, the Camino once again reminded us how healing nature can be. Eventually, the distant sound of a street sweeper on the other side of the hill pulled us gently back to reality — cars, schools, and everyday life reminding us that we were never too far from civilization.
We walked through the town of A Guarda to our hotels for the night. That alone would have made for a very short hiking day, but we had bigger plans. After dropping our (Gina & us) backpacks at our separate hotels, we grabbed small daypacks and extra water and continued north toward the coastal town of Oia. The idea was to add another 18 kilometers to today’s journey, then take a taxi back to A Guarda for the night and return to Oia in the morning to continue the Camino from there. It lengthened today’s walk, but it would shorten tomorrow’s very long 31-kilometer stage to Baiona.
As we descended out of A Guarda and reached the coastline, the scenery immediately reminded us of the rugged coast of Northern California — dramatic rocky shores, crashing waves, and an angry sea rolling endlessly toward the land. We stopped briefly at a beautiful little park marking the entrance to the Senda Litoral route of the Coastal Camino before continuing on.
For several kilometers we walked along the coastal highway, watching thick bands of fog drift in from the Atlantic and roll over the hills beside us. Overall, the walk was surprisingly pleasant, with only occasional uphill stretches as the road drifted away from the coastline. Much of the terrain was gradual or flat, making for an easier day on the legs. Along the coast were beautiful homes and estates mixed with half-finished construction projects that looked as though they had simply been abandoned in time.
Eventually, we reached an early afternoon oasis called Esplanada do Horizonte, where we stopped for a much-needed break with still several kilometers left to Oia. Bob had his first Estrella Galicia beer — practically Spain’s national beer — and claimed it was excellent for hydration during long walking days. Not exactly medically approved, but the justification worked for him.
I was thrilled because I finally found an Aquarius, which has become my favorite hydration drink on the Camino. After long days of walking, it really helps replenish and keep me going. While we were resting, there was also a gentleman there making wax stamps for pilgrims. He was incredibly kind, and we ended up talking for quite a while. We connected on such a spiritual level. He told me he had been walking the Camino for over 40 years, and before we left he simply said, “Take it easy and enjoy the journey.” Those words stayed with me for the rest of the day.
A couple more hours later, around 3:30 in the afternoon, we finally arrived in Oia, completing about 13 miles (22 kilometers) of what turned out to be a generally easier and very enjoyable hiking day. We had already arranged for a taxi to take us back to A Guarda, and another one to return us to Oia the next morning so we could continue our trek from there.
By the time we returned to A Guarda, the sun had finally broken through the stubborn coastal fog. We enjoyed an early dinner before heading back to the hotel for some much-needed rest. We had also officially crossed into a new time zone, so sunset wouldn’t arrive until well past 10:00 p.m.
The good news is that we have a rest day coming in Baiona — two nights in the same place and a much-needed recovery day.
As Bob reflected on the last several days, he realized something important. During those first couple of stages, the focus had been mostly on “getting there” — reaching the destination, finishing the kilometers, checking the box. But over the last few days, something had shifted. He found himself slowing down, noticing more, appreciating the beauty around him, and discovering a certain peace in the journey itself rather than the destination.
And honestly, that is exactly what the Camino provides. It’s something very difficult to put into words. There is a silence here, a peace, and a simplicity that slowly settles into your soul as you walk. Somewhere between the sound of the ocean, the rhythm of your footsteps, and the quiet moments in between, the Camino begins to change you.
Buen Camino!Leia mais
Day 21 - Viana do Catelo to Caminha
24 de maio, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F
More photos from today’s walk
Day 21 - Viana do Castelo to Caminha.
24 de maio, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F
Today we decided to leave the Litoral Path behind and follow the Coastal Route of the Camino instead. What a completely different experience it was from walking along the beaches and boardwalks. Today’s route felt far more rural and reminded me so much of the Camino Francés, with its rolling ups and downs through charming villages, rocky trails, ancient cobblestones, and thankfully a few soft dirt paths mixed in. After days of walking on hard stones, sand, and uneven terrain, every stretch of dirt felt like a gift to our tired feet.
We had an early start, meeting in the historic square of Viana do Castelo around 6:30 in the morning. After debating our options, we chose the Coastal Route, which actually travels more inland than the true Litoral route along the ocean. The tradeoff was worth it — fewer sandy stretches, more villages, and many more opportunities to stop for food, coffee, and little moments of rest along the way.
The morning began with a steep climb out of town while the cool ocean breeze still lingered in the air. Since we left before breakfast at the hotel, we stopped a couple of miles later for Cafe con Leche. We actually stopped twice for coffee and it was so yummy. One of the highlights of the day — a beautiful garden café connected to an old convent and church. Sitting beside a gently flowing river, sipping fresh lemonade and café con leche, it felt like one of those perfect Camino moments where time slows down completely.
The convent and church were filled with history. Bob overheard one of the staff members explaining that this area was part of the ancient Roman trail, with origins dating back nearly 2,000 years. The route follows portions of the old Via Romana XIX, the Roman road connecting Braga and Astorga in Spain. Suddenly those massive weathered stones we had been walking across all morning took on a whole new meaning. It was incredible to realize that pilgrims have been following these same paths for centuries, and long before them, Roman soldiers and traders once traveled the very same roads.
Walking into the church brought an overwhelming sense of peace and serenity. Outside, the sounds of the flowing river and birds singing all around us created such a calm atmosphere that I honestly wanted to stay there the entire afternoon simply soaking it all in. We enjoyed some fresh lemonade and a yummy pastry.
As we continued toward Vila Praia de Âncora, the trail brought more climbs and descents over ancient Roman stones, broken rock paths, and patches of dirt trail. Coming into town, we stumbled upon a colorful little plaza we nicknamed “Praça dos Cisnes” — the Plaza of the Swans — filled with beautifully decorated swan displays that must have been left from a recent festival. The entire square felt cheerful and alive.
While enjoying pizza there, we unexpectedly ran into the couple we’ve been calling the “SLO ladies,” Julie and Gwen from San Luis Obispo. They were staying in Vila Praia de Âncora, but since we couldn’t secure a room there, we still had another seven kilometers to go before reaching Caminha.
The final stretch followed the coastline again, but this section was rugged and rocky rather than sandy. It was interesting seeing families and couples relaxing on huge rocks the same way people normally spread out on a sandy beach. The Atlantic coastline here has such a different personality — wild, beautiful, and dramatic.
By the time we finally arrived in Caminha, we were beyond ready to rest. Across the river we could already see Spain waiting for us on the other side. Reaching the hotel felt glorious. We immediately took advantage of the warm indoor pools, jacuzzi, sauna, and steam bath — exactly what our tired Camino bodies needed after such a long day.
After a little rest, we headed to a late dinner around 8:00. The poor waiter was managing nearly ten tables by himself, but he worked so hard and still managed to keep smiling. During dinner, another afternoon thunderstorm rolled through, something we’ve been watching almost daily now. Thankfully we were warm, dry, and able to enjoy the lightning show from inside the restaurant.
Tomorrow we cross into Spain, with a shorter walking day ahead. Oddly enough, even though we’ll remain at nearly the same longitude, we’ll also lose an hour because Spain is in a different time zone.
Buen Camino.Leia mais
Day 20 - more photos of our adventures!
23 de maio, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F
Day 20 - ESPOSENDE to Viana do Costello
23 de maio, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
Today was a very hard 17½-mile walk on the Litoral Path of the Camino. We crossed so many different terrains — cobblestones, sand dunes, pebble stones, and even more sand dunes — which made for some very challenging walking. Along the way we passed countless farms and watched local people harvesting their crops, which was beautiful to see.
One thing we didn’t see were cafés! I made the mistake of not filling up my water jug before leaving the hotel, so at one point we had to detour about 800 meters off the path just to find a café and get some water.
Today definitely turned into an adventure. We walked through beautiful eucalyptus forests where large branches had fallen everywhere, forcing us to climb over and duck under them. At one point we followed a trail we weren’t completely sure about, only to discover it ended in someone’s backyard! We had to jump the fence to get back out to the street and continue on our way.
We also saw beautiful wild horses running through a field, which felt like something out of a movie. Eventually we reached the long bridge leading into the city of Viana do Castelo. That bridge seemed endless, and by then my feet were absolutely killing me. To distract ourselves, Gina and I sang two entire songs even though we barely knew the words!
When we finally made it to our hotel, our feet were sandy and filthy, and all I could think about was getting into a hot shower. After cleaning up, Bob and I met Gina for drinks and appetizers at a nearby bar before heading back to the hotel restaurant for a delicious dinner. Bob and I shared a bottle of wine, and now it’s time to get some much-needed rest because tomorrow is another very long day.
Buen Camino!Leia mais
Day 19- Povoa de Varzim to ESPOSENDE
22 de maio, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F
Bob’s view of today’s Camino route was much the same as mine, at least until we separated onto different paths for part of the journey.
Today’s venture was just slightly shorter but in many ways a very different view of the northern Portugal coastal area. Bob followed the Coastal Route but lost track of Gina and I at about halfway due to Bob walking further ahead of us, and they taking a turn and following a leg of what’s known as the Litoral Route. That separated us for about 2 hours. More on the differences later.
But any route that follows the coastline is sure to be pleasant. With cool breezes and the sounds of surf crashing against the shore, we walked north, again along kilometers of coastal boardwalk, past rock formations, areas where the shore break of the waves was iintense. Definitely not a beach area set up for swimming although sections did have some great sand beaches. The boardwalk took us past a couple of old windmills, probably ones that hadn’t been used in a very long time and missing the sails . In many places the boardwalk took us along long stretches of the back side of coastal dunes, making the temperature a little warmer and showing a greater diversity of foliage. Crossing several streams (ok, they may have been considered rivers) there were ducks and ducklings, a frog symphony similar in sound to yesterday’s but not so visible, and trails wandering past a large sports club soccer facility. Continting further, there were acres and acres of greenhouse facilities, and in places where you could peak through the plastic they held quite the assortment of tomatoes, leafy greens, beans, and in some cases a variety of flowers.
Moving inland a little further , we passed views of a couple of golf courses, uncrowded and looking like some very nice holes. At that point the boardwalk ended for Bob as he took the marked coastal route although it went inland a bit. Another route, called the Litoral, stayed along a boardwalk and closer to the coast was where Gina and I separated from Bob ( unknowingly). Bob stopped for a quick cool drink at the yellow sail-less windmill thinking we would would be along somewhat shortly, and after a while we both texted asking each other where the other was. Gina and Sue had made a left where I had gone straight.
Gina and my coastal Litoral Route was filled with breathtaking sand dunes covered in beautiful vegetation, along with countless farms growing lettuce, tomatoes, and so many other vegetables. Along the way, we came upon a charming fishing village where locals were buying fresh fish for dinner. Some of the fish were still alive, and the octopus looked especially sad lying on display.
Gina and I continued through beautiful neighborhoods that reminded me so much of Carmel-by-the-Sea with their coastal charm and lovely homes. Eventually, we rejoined the other coastal route, where we happily ran into Bob. We sat together for a while, enjoying a drink and the sandwiches we had made at breakfast — a perfect little break along the journey.
Bob’s inland route took him off the boardwalk and on to both cobblestone streets, dirt paths, and through areas dotted with farms, pastures, fields of flowers, and more farm vegetation. Even the star thistle had beautiful purple flowers.
Winding through some smaller residential areas (complete with sculptures and figurines in the front yard) and passing a church and school in a town called Apula, as well as several random pilgrim memorials or places of intention (collections of hand drawn stones, collections of shells, ribbons, etc) where pilgrims left their possessions or areas of remembrance or release.
It does seem that the Portugese do love their shrines or statues as well, noting statues of saints and homage to historical figures and daily life.
Entering the town of Fao, there were again simpler churches, parks, and small town streets with ornate but also simple homes (many characterized by the Portugese use of ceramic tiles that we have seen again and again).
Bob went past a busy main fire department, complete with a working 1931 Model T firetruck and came to a corner near the Lima River where we all rejoined and stopped for a quick beverage before tackling the last 2 miles. Crossing the river we walked into Esposende and down a trail that took us along the river to our hotel, a nice place which was definitely upscale compared to last night’s. In need of a quick shower and time to put together the photo collection, time was taken before walking down to the town center, checking out shops, and looking inside the church. Back to the hotel for dinner, relaxation, hopefully sleep, and then the longer journey tomorrow to Viana do Castelo.
Buom dio!Leia mais
Day 18 - more photos of today’s walk!
21 de maio, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
Day 17 - Another wonderful day in Porto
20 de maio, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 70 °F
Today was our last day to explore Porto, as everything changes after today. To take advantage of being in a city famous for its port wine, we started the morning visiting one of the many port houses, Boeira, which was associated with the hotel where we stayed — and the tasting was complimentary as well! If you have never had port wine, it is like a little sip of heaven.
From there, we took a long walk along the Gaia side of the Douro River to visit another famous port house, Ramos Pinto, recommended by a member of the Sacramento Pilgrims group. Walking through Porto is an experience in itself — narrow cobbled sidewalks, noisy cobblestone streets, and rows of tightly packed buildings, many either in disrepair or under renovation. It is amazing how many historic structures in the city are still awaiting restoration.
Once we reached the riverside, the atmosphere shifted into a lively tourist district filled with shops, restaurants, and attractions. The gelato was especially delicious, but the real highlight of the day was the visit to Ramos Pinto.
The experience was part museum, part historical tour, telling the story of the Ramos Pinto brothers, Adriano and António. Having come from the famous Sandeman organization, they wanted their new port wine business to stand apart from the other producers already established in Gaia. While most companies focused on exporting to Europe, Ramos Pinto concentrated heavily on Brazil. They also changed the way port was marketed and exported by bottling the wine instead of shipping it in casks, allowing them to create colorful, eye-catching labels and distinctive branding.
António focused on the production side of the business, while Adriano handled marketing and accounting, thriving on numbers and promotion. Their creativity and innovation made the company unique for its time.
The tour felt like stepping back in history. We walked through preserved office spaces filled with original cabinetry, equipment, office stations, and beautifully preserved marketing posters. Even the executive washroom was incredibly ornate. Some of their advertising campaigns were considered provocative for the era, featuring religious imagery and partially clothed or nude women. One memorable poster showed Adam trying to choose between women or port wine, while another depicted the serpent offering Eve a glass of port instead of the forbidden apple.
The building itself dates back to 1708 and was renovated around 1890. The separate stained-glass office spaces of Adriano and António Ramos Pinto still contain the original wallpaper and furniture dating back to about 1910.
From the museum area, we descended into the cellars where approximately 600 casks of port are stored, including white, tawny, ruby, and multiple reserve varieties dating back decades. The cellar holds nearly three million liters of port and is one of only two cellars operated by the company.
An interesting detail we learned was that once the casks are no longer used for port, they are sent to friends in Scotland to be reused for whisky production, giving the barrels an incredibly long life. The warehouses are located in Gaia because this side of the river averages about four degrees cooler than Porto itself, and historically the taxes were also lower here.
After returning to our hotel to collect our luggage and backpacks — and enjoying a quick pizza lunch — we moved to our departure hotel on the north side of the river, an area with a much more modern, city-like feel, yet still offering beautiful views of the skyline.
Calling it an early night after a quick drink, we finished the day preparing for the beginning of our Camino adventure, which starts tomorrow with an approximately 26-kilometer walk to Póvoa de Varzim.
Buen Camino!Leia mais
Viajante❤️❤️