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Destination Asie
  • AliceAlain

Destination Asie

Follow us as we wend our way from Austria towards Turkey and the start of the East. Leggi altro
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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    The mice
    The tumble drierAlexandria troasMosque with transluscent minaretAncient olive treeTemple of Apollo SmintheusHoly road to Alexandria Traos

    The God of Mice

    6 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We are heading towards and then along the coastline south of Troy. Yet again we have a headwind and progress is hard won. Tomorrow there are gales forecast from the south. It is time to find somewhere to hole up. We strike lucky with a pleasant and inexpensive hotel looking out over the sea. Not only that but the next morning two other cyclists roll in - also stymied by the wind. We have not seen other touring bikes since Kosovo so it is good fun to swap stories. Meanwhile the warm wind howls, the thunder claps and we have a huge deluge and several power cuts.

    Our legs decide a 2nd rest day is a good plan. The tumble drier on the balcony provides an almost instant drying service… just so long as things can be securely tied on.
    Finally we are off once more. First up are the ruins of Alexandria Troas including temple and baths. We appreciate quiet paved roads through the olive groves.

    At lunch time we roll into Güpinar and the temple of Apollo Smintheus - the god of mice (protecting farmers from the mice). Its peaceful and a lovely place and we appear it have it to ourselves. We admire the columns of the temple and the holy road back to Alexandria - used only by pedestrians. There are freshly fallen bursting pomegranates from the storm that Alain picks up for Alice to eat.

    Turning the corner we bump into 4 Americans:
    Them: Its getting crowded around here
    Us: Yes, it is a bit
    Them: Wow. Did you cycle here?
    Alain: Yes! How did you figure that out?
    Them: Well. The clue would be the helmet on your head….

    We continue on across a dry and open rolling landscape.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Looking west from Athena's temple in Assos
    Lesbos Island in sightOlive trees, pines, the coast...Athena's temple. The grey stone is a form of basaltThe byzantine fortificationsThe little theatre underneath the cliff ot the Assos platformThe harbour, 'Berham'Sunrise from the hotelFrom Assos a little road along the shore...Bucolic scene east of Assos

    Assos

    6 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After visiting Apollo, God of mice, the road goes uphill at every village, and very fast down afterwards. So, we discover with tired legs the superb view on the site of Assos perched up high, 230 very steep meters above the sea. We are greeted by a statue of Aristotle who lived here (as well as in Lesbos). There follows a last effort to climb the paved street to the archaeological site before closure.

    The late afternoon view over the sea and the Island of Lesbos are our reward. Besides the remains of the temple of Athena we can admire a 14th century mosque, and byzantine walls, all with a characteristic construction using large stones interleaved with bricks. In the last 20 minutes before closure, we run down to admire a small outdoors theater facing the sea, and then run back up.

    We cycle down a paved road to a good hotel room and the quiet beauty of the harbour. Fishing boats turn in and clean up their nets. We learn how to water-spray cats and dogs to discourage them from jumping on our laps for dinner. One of them ends up having an impromptu swim after which he is much more polite.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    What beautiful woods
    Resort-land with great sea viewOld muslim cemetery in the woodsWe just climbed the road you see belowPinesMess and eleganceBoulder landNow you understand their french name "pin parasol"

    Pines and pilgrims

    8 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    A recurring issue in Turkey is the lack of information on the state of smaller roads. Our map is a 1:800 000 scale, and open street map has no idea whether small roads will be dirt or tarmac. For a significant climb, a poor dirt road is pretty daunting. And if its muddy it can be impassable. This makes choosing our route a major lottery.

    After yesterday’s non too inspiring coastal route through miles of resort apartments, we are relieved and delighted to find a small but a proper road up and through the mountains. Hurrah. We climb through olive groves being harvested by family groups, and then beautiful pine covered hillsides. Ahead of us are three french pilgrims with their 2 dogs. They are walking from Paris to Jerusalem, travelling without money. Hats off to them.

    Over the pass, there are huge granite boulders amongst the pines, and many many quarries. Soon it is the long easy descent into Bergama with Pergamon perched enticingly above.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    On top of Pergamon, the temple to the glory of emperor Trajan
    Exploring Bergama, step one: a gigantic basilica at present town level... and a rain showerBracing for a steep climb of the hill... but when will the rain stop?Temple to Zeus and Athena at the top of the hillAdmiring what is left of emperor Trajan's appetites1The famous hellenistic theater, the steepest of the known ancient theaters.From the Greek theater, one can now admire the vaulted structure supporting the upper templesModeling the poncho (on an ancient road)Pegammon once hosted 180 000 souls; see below the aquaduct of 35km that brought water to the cityShopping in Bergama, we stand in the pastry shop admiring the preparation of shredded doughA Metin selfie of our yummy and joyful dinner

    Pergamon

    9 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    In Bergama we stay with Metin, a generous dentist and amateur cyclist, who lets us use a spare room and kitchen in his clinic for two nights; it’s our first use of the ‘warmshowers’ program in Turkey and it’s really nice!

    On the nearby hill, dominating the valley, is the site of Pergamon, the ancient city where Greeks, Persians, Macedonians, Trace, Romans, Byzantines and a few more held headquarters of a once powerful city and state. Our visit is generously bathed by multiple interventions of rain, sun, and wind.

    On top of the hill, we admire a temple to the glory of Trajan the Roman emperor who was deified — what is left of his statue reveals that he did not mind the terrestrial goodies of Roman banquets ;-). An interesting feature of visiting ruins is that parts of the construction, originally intended to be hidden, are revealed: the huge podium supporting the temples was built on a multi-vaulted structure anchoring it on the rock, which is perfectly preserved.

    The most spectacular remain is that of a very steep Greek theatre carved in the hillside; sitting near the top row for a little snack, we can only imagine what it once was for a play, a singing contest, or a beautiful sunset. Rain kicks us off our daydreaming.

    Back in the city we visit the bazaar, manage to buy two pairs of socks, and stock up for dinner, including a stop at the “patiseri” — pastry shop. We joyfully share cooking and dinner with Metin and his old dad, who expresses his satisfaction with the roasted chicken thighs.    Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Flags of Türkiye and Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founding father of the Republic of Türkiye
    Across the plains to ManisaSinging the national anthem beneath our hotel window to honour the AttatürkTypical turkish breakfast ... complete with cold chips!Decorations in the 15th century mosque in Manisa1

    The Atatürk

    10 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    It surprised us when we arrived in Türkiye to see just how many flags and pictures of the Atatürk there are everywhere. This morning in Bergama, Alice nips out with the rubbish, just after a siren has sounded, and on the way back notices all the people in the street standing silent and to attention. This evening, in the city of Manisa, our bedroom overlooks a school playground; at 6pm all the kids gather outside to receive prizes and then sing the national anthem. We do some research. Today is the anniversary of the death of the Atatürk, the man who turned Türkiye into a secular republic. Just before we arrived, Türkiye celebrated 100 years of being a republic. Now we understand.

    The weather is not great so we book another warmshowers night, this time with Soykan in Turgutlu. He returned to his home town to farm family olive trees. He speaks perfect english thanks to time living and working in the US and UK. It’s really nice to chat and eat together with this delightful and generous man.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Alain has gone shopping, but his map and disk brakes trigger some interest!
    The Roman baths of Sardis are a huge establishment; most inscriptions are in greek.Inside the synagogueStanding on a 3000 year old road. How many feet have been on this stone before mine?A fallen arch after an earthquake - with huge blocks implanted in the old roadTypical Turkish costume from the rural area we are travelling byRaining on the mountains, shining on the vineyards, smiling in our soulsAutumn beautyGeothermal equipment in the landscapeAnd a BIG pipe and electricity factory

    The synagogue of Sardis

    12 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After warm goodbyes to Soykan, we pedal along the highway, on the side of which many shops and even motels can easily be found. Our next stop is the more than 35 centuries old city of Sardis, ancient capital of the 7th and 6th century BCE Lydian kings — including Craesus, famous for his riches (“riche comme Crésus” is a popular French expression). The Roman bath establishment was located next to a 12 metre wide road, which has remained a major highway for over 3000 years. It was certainly prosperous! You can see where there were shops, a large town entrance and the pools at three different temperatures.

    Probably the most unique part of the visit is the large synagogue, dating from the 3rd century. The local governor had sent an invitation across the Roman Empire to all Jews, to come and settle in his town, to enlarge and enrich it. The synagogue seems to be the largest in the western diaspora. What remains are the restored walls and floor of a large building that was beside the baths, with columns, mosaic floors and remarkable interior decorations. University groups from Columbia (New York), Harvard (Massachusetts) and Istanbul collaborate in the discovery, excavation and preservation.

    We continue our route on a small road in the vineyards, along a scenic range of mountains. Clouds and sunshine, patches of rain and fog among hills, peaks and cliffs, create for us a free show of natural beauty. A few kilometres before Alasehir, our destination, a large number of pipes seem to emerge from the hills into the vineyards, some converging into large fuming cooling towers. We guess that these are geothermal installations collecting the heat from the tectonic terrain. This is confirmed by Soykan via WhatsApp: locals use the energy for heating and electricity.    Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    The photo of the tractor in which they insist it should have Alain at the helm
    Its pomegranate seasonAlice and the grapesThe grapes, kept protected under long plastic sheeting, are deliciousA very kind farmer and his shy wife

    The grape detour

    13 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Sometimes it takes a really crummy day to realise that a change is needed. Our planned and advised route, chosen because of a lack of sane alternative, turns out to be a much busier and faster road than we had expected. By 11, a has-not-slept-enough Alice rebels. We decide, hesitantly, to try the unknown, despite impending rain. Five km later, as we pause, a passing farmer signals for us to follow him - he has grapes he wants to give us. He also advises (with some help from google translate) that the road ahead is “broken in the rain” and is adamant that we should go back. So that was a 10km detour for a large bag of freshly picked delicious grapes and an uplifting exchange with a kind farmer.

    Back to the horrible main road. We climb in and out of rain, eventually reaching a bridge where our safe but noisy hard shoulder disappears. Alice just can’t bring herself to brave the traffic. Eventually Alain figures out that we may be able to cross below on rough tracks. There we find a muslim cemetery complete with washing area which has water, shelter and benches. The rain sets in and we pitch the tent in the field next door as the light drops. We snuggle down quickly, too tired to even cook.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    It's very very steep!
    These surprising caves have to be human-madebenim adım MURATL1The sweetest juiciest pomegranates everAt some point, we thought he would give us his car!TripolisRemarkable tiled floor, still with colorsRoman terra cotta water pipes networkAnd a superb paved street! (The tarmaced road above has been dug through to reveal it)

    Mud, Pomegranates and Tripolis

    14 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our target today is to reach Pamukkale before sunset -- with as little as possible of either motorway or dirt road. So we choose a longer and hillier detour, which hopefully will fit the bill.

    After a restorative sleep, we are ready to go... only to find out we have a flat tire to fix. Since nobody can be blamed, this puts us in an excellent mood, and we are off by 11:00.

    Alice conscientiously observes the little roads of the same class as our planned detour -- and convinces herself that we have more than 50% chance to be on asphalt. To this, Alain replies that since the uncertain road is downhill, it does not matter either way. Once an optimist...

    It's a dirt road. The entrance looks good enough, and we rely on Alain's argument. After a couple of kilometres and a serious downhill, the dirt has transformed into heavy sticky mud -- we have seen this before (see day 44, in Macedonia). Alice is stuck, mudgards full; turning back up is not a great option, and carrying the bikes (that we can’t lift) for the remaining 12km of detour isn't a good one either.

    So, we pick a pomegranate. Then proceed to fix the problem with the total removal of Alice's mudguards. The road, or rather trail, takes us, not without some vertiginous moments, into an isolated valley. As it becomes deeper and deeper, we see the remnants of old settlements, sometimes carved into the cliffs of the gorge. Now the detour pays off!!!

    Ultimately, we arrive in the plain and orchards. Just as we pause to fix a stay for tonight, a handsome farmer named Muratl stops in his shiny orange Renault 12 and invites us for tea with huge enthusiasm. He displays a formidable harvest of pomegranates and an unlikely dexterity with his mobile phone. Still uncertain of where we sleep, we accept, "just for 5 minutes". This is a hilarious moment, in which we get selfied with Muratl and a few others, appear live on YouTube, get to pose at the wheel of his bright orange R12, and get offered the three best juiciest pomegranates ever.

    Having fixed the evening plan, we pass by Tripolis, a recent archeological find, an old town covering a whole hill side. The excavations of the site are still in progress, but we get to tour some important parts the city. Paved floors and a well-preserved network of terra cotta water pipes are fascinating. The afternoon sun creates marvels of his own.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Travertine (terrace) pools
    1No. This is not snowShoes off if you want to enter1Warming chilly feetToes for scale!Descending at the end of the day

    Hierapolis travertines

    15 novembre 2023, Turchia

    Its really hard not to think it has just snowed under the palm trees. We are looking up at Hierapolis from the village of Pamukkale about to visit the dual Unesco site ( the travertines and the ruined city). The enthralling white hillside is formed of calcium carbonate deposits from the thermal springs above. We walk up barefoot through this wonderful place enjoying the non slippery texture under our feet and the warm waters that are tumbling down.Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Amphitheatre seating
    View down to Pamukkale1st century tombThe setting is greatThe public latrines on the side of the road. Romans were not shy.Amphitheatre with reconstructed lower part of stageOlive crushing parts of an ancient oil millAn oil (or wine?) collecting stone (see similar one in Hvar)Temple built over the spring

    Hierapolis ruins

    15 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The thermal waters of Hierapolis have been used for curative purposes from around 200 BC. The site is located just above the travertines with wonderful views. It continued to be used for centuries until earthquakes finally got the better of it in the 14th century. Its a huge area with massive necropolis, ruined baths and a particularly big and well preserved amphitheater, not to mention the temples, a 20m wide street, latrines and gates. A recently excavated temple over the source of the water was used for sacrifices - the animals being suffocated from the CO2.Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Perfect photo of a blue minaret in the sun
    Enjoying the Anatolian farmlandSalda Gölü, blue water and white sand. Access prohibited.After wind, frost, mud, and disappointment, the relief of a beautiful lake.A great sunrise1We stay two nights in our nice room with a view, to recover. The second sunrise is more threatening.We start off with a memorable "slow down for wild boar" sign.

    Salda Gölü

    17 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    As we leave Pamukkale, the weather is grey, windy, threatening. The next destination is 110km, and a 1370m high pass away. We plan to pitch the tent 8 km from the pass in Karaçai. We bravely climb through a few showers, the traffic is sparse, and it's wild. As we enter Karaçai to ask where we could stay, a happy gang invites us for freshly-made fritters and chai. This is much welcome in this weather. After much laughter, small chat and 3 of each, we enquire about pitching a tent. "There is a place on the plateau 6 km away, the guard will help you! It's open, there are warm showers etc..."

    After 8 km of climbing in fog, drizzle, and crepuscule, we have reached the place. It's advertised. It's at our 1370m pass. It's very windy... and.it's.closed. We retreat in the field across the road, a place beckons under that pine. We mud-up our wheels and mudgards for the third time but manage to pitch, peg, cook, in the howling darkness. We are soon tucked in, with only the fear that the mud blocks will freeze on our wheels.

    The next day is sunny. Nothing, and nobody froze. We travel by villages and farmland, and by midafternoon arrive in sight of a marvellous little volcanic lake with bright blue waters and white sand. We download our panniers in our room, and treat ourselves to a little tour along the coast until sunset.    Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Our 15 year old waitress and sister
    Chai on the wood stoveBobble hat, helmet and gloves for the snowOne of many marble quarries producing huge blocksRummy and ChaiThe chai makerMusic teacher and friendsVillage ducksOn the plateau, we pitch in the pine woods

    Chai, Snow and Penguins

    19 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Eating out in Salda proves to be one of its highlights. Largely for the lovely interactions we have. Our first meal is piping hot and freshly cooked. The central wood stove heats us and the Chai (tea) and bakes onions and potatoes which are an unexpected addition to our meal. Once we and the other couple are served, the rest of the family sits down and eats alongside us.

    Since we have a nice view and a wild day is forecast we take a rest day. The second night, we inadvertently end up barging into a family meal. They still seem delighted by our visit. The 15 year old daughter is in charge of translation, and our order, plus photos and instagram. Its charming. And of course we are served Chai.

    The Turkish Chai pot is a double stacked teapot with the upper pot (which has the brew) serving as the lid for the lower pot (which has the hot water for dilution). Chai is served in tiny glasses plus or minus sugar.

    Our ride today is seriously chilly. All those layers that we had forgotten about at the bottom of the pannier are now needed. We get lightly dusted with tiny snow flakes. Its too cold to hang around or take photos. Whilst we have been keeping an unsuccessful eye out for penguins on our trip, now Alice is so heavily wrapped up she feels like a penguin.

    We head into a small village to look for milk. The shop is closed but we are enthusiastically invited in for Chai. This time a cosy room filled with men chatting, playing a rummy type game and drinking Chai. A local piano teacher has a little english and chats with us. Its lovely to feel so welcomed by the locals. And an added bonus: Alice is delighted to regain communication with her toes.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    A happy tent in the morning
    Anatolia... a solar panel farmLittle village and a great blue skyIt snowed on us cold pellets of ice yesterday. Now we admire the dusted mountainsPart of the landscape consists of rapidly eroding terrainSome grand scenery for us aloneCloser to the mountains.Last pass of the day, in afternoon sunTalking of the afternoon sun...A last gorge before we stop for the day2A slim Alain who has responded well to novel instuctions to "Eat More"

    Anatolie au soleil

    20 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Grand soleil. La tente est couverte de grains de glace, il doit faire -1⁰C. Ça s'annonce bien, à part une bonne bagarre avec le réchaud à pétrole qu'Alice finit par gagner en utilisant la cartouche de gaz de secours : le gaz chasse liquide et particule(s) qui bloquaient le système.

    Nous pédalons avec grand plaisir sur le plateau d'Anatolie, émerveillés par les montagnes qui nous entourent, saupoudrées de la neige d'hier et de la nuit. Nous découvrons enfin ce plateau d'Asie mineure et son ciel immense, pour lequel nous avons entrepris ce long voyage.

    Notre étape du soir est en fait un élevage de truites, qui sont bien sûr au menu. Notre hôte arrive dans la chambre avec un grand plateau rond: truite grillée, yaourt bien épais (on dirait 'fromage blanc' en France), salade assaisonnée au citron, sauce tomate-piment, quelques frites, halva pour le dessert.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Sagalassos mountain setting
    Earthquake jiggled steps and the main road leading up into the lower AgoraArcheological 3D jigsaw puzzleThis is where the town would collect its drinking waterThe amphitheatreCarvings on the Heroon (shrine to a hero)The Antonine Nymphaeum in the upper AgoraEntering the agora1The fountain is still flowingSo many mountains...

    The sacred mountain

    21 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    If an ancient Alice was going to choose an ancient site to live in, Sagalassos would have to be it. Perched high on the edge of the Taurus mountains of Anatolia it commands wonderful views all around. It lies between 1400 and 1700m above sea-level so a visit comes at a certain cost to our intrepid cyclists.

    It originated as an Iron age settlement. The high placement gave a defensive advantage and was away from the swampier valley land. A good water supply and agriculture meant that the site was self sufficient. It was occupied until the 7th century when once more a massive earthquake struck. Temples were dedicated to ancient gods and the town was laid out in harmony with the setting. The several Nyphaea (water fountains), were aligned so they could appear as just one mega-fountain. Most of all we just love the beautiful setting on a wonderfully sunny day high in the mountains.    Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    And suddenly, in the mist, we enter a deep gorge.
    These walls of limestone stand in front of usThe road weaves its way through the barriersVertiginous steepness on the left side of our little roadA misty show of colors, rocks and cliffsApparition of a huge cliff on our rightTrees and rocks compositionUn abri pic-nique avec une table à l'abri, une salle de prière et une fontaine nous permet une pauseTaking davantage of a short clearing, we see the mountains behind usIn Türkiye, Jandarma is never far away.

    Taurus in the mist

    22 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Mardi soir. La météo prédit de sérieuses pluies samedi et dimanche prochain, ce qui fait que la dernière fenêtre est vendredi pour passer un grand col en chemin de terre situé à 150km d'ici. Deux belles étapes nous attendent donc mercredi et jeudi.

    Petit déjeuner servi specialement tôt, à 7h45, nous prenons la route avant 9h00. Il fait froid sur le plateau à 1200m et de plus en plus gris. Nous sortons de la grand-route pour suivre une petite rivière dans le brouillard, qui crée un jeu irréel de couleurs d'automne, de prairies et de roches. Soudain des falaises se dressent devant nous. La route se faufile. Émergent de la brume une profonde gorge, un capharnaüm de pics, de falaises, d'éboulis, de précipices. Émerveillement.

    Nous perdons plus de 700 mètres d'altitude dans cette gorge, qu'il faut regagner à pédales dans une belle forêt sur l'autre versant. Il pleuviote. Après quelques heures de ces merveilles mouillées, nous trouvons un coin pour camper. La 'Jandarma' nous fait un peu peur en passant par là, girophares allumés -- mais elle ne faisait que passer...

    Sur la carte il y un gros 'T' près de notre route. La premiere lettre du mot TOROSLAR. Nous somme dans les montagnes du Taurus....    Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Wonderful lighting
    Leaving last nights campsite behindThe ruins of AdadaRed soils and autumnal coloursThe big mountains come into viewThe pass we will attempt tomorrow (right hand side)Autumnal coloursOur hostess and some friends in our homely turkish accomodationFruits (?) drying outside St Pauls Hostel (on the St Pauls trail)

    The glory of the Western Taurus

    23 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Todays outstanding highlight comes in the afternoon. We have already enjoyed a morning of gorges and small mountain roads, the ruins of Adada and a remote mountain plain. And after the wet of yesterday, the warm drying sunshine is an especial pleasure. But it is as we turn a corner and ascend our final and biggest pass, that a high range of the Western Taurus mountains appear and capture our attention.

    For the next hour or more we have wonderful vistas, low warm sunlight, golden autumnal colours and dark threatening clouds. This has to be one of the most scenic roads we have ridden in the whole trip. And its hard to imagine the colours and lighting being any better.

    The experience is all the more striking as we will cross this range tomorrow on a high dirt road pass that we can see in the far distance.    Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    As altitude increases, trees become rare. Rare cyclist falls in love with lovely pine.
    Early morning mist in the gorgePlane trees are native from Türkiye.This part of Türkiye is very empty of humansLast fountain before the hairpins. Note the grey bag on the back of Alice's bicycleThere be hairpinsIt's getting steep and desolateOnly three hairpins left to push1760 m; we are happy to be here1Family of wild boarsLake Beysehir. Almost there!

    The 1760m pass

    24 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ 🌩️ 10 °C

    We quit the St Paul hostel on a cold, sunny morning to attack the big pass -- except that we go down 300 wonderful meters to cross the main valley. We will have to climb 1000m.

    We first climb a charming and misty side valley, where plane trees grow in the wild. It clears up as we turn into a good quality dirt road; we never need to push the bicycles. The scenery is beautiful.

    Just before the last hairpins, we get to a water point, good place for elevenses (snack de 11h, NDLR); some food is pulled out of Alice's pannier (sacoche). The scenery is becoming dramatic!

    No joy is greater than reaching the pass and discovering another valley. Excitement also, as Alice calls, "Alain, come see!" -- TWO DOZEN WILD BOARS tumbling down the mountain. Did we scare them? or are they having fun?

    The descent consists of 20km of much more painful mountain road, and we complete our 85km adventure -- totally zonked (crevés) -- in Beyşehir. Mustafa, head of the local cycling club, greats us generously: he offers a free hotel night if we wear the club's cycling shirt :-).

    EPILOG As we unpack in our room at Paradise Suit Otel, Alice realizes with great upset that her waterproofs are missing. After consulting the photo collection, we diagnose unambiguously that they were last seen at the water point. In spite of a desperate rescue expedition the next day, they remain the largest lost item in "Destination Asie".    Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    The Esrefoglu mosque
    A flat topped roofEntering the mosque on deep rich carpets1Alices borrowed fashion waterproofThe cycle lane heads directly into...a wall!1A wild day by lake Beysehir

    Beysehir

    26 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    The weather forecast is wet and wild for the weekend and Alice now has no waterproofs other than Alain’s airy but trendy poncho. It seems a good moment for a pause.
    The 13th century Esrefoglu mosque is a must-see. Its a flat topped structure with amazing internal woodwork. It completely stands out from the other mosques we have visited. In middle is a 3 metre deep open snow-hole in which snow was stored to keep the mosque cool and the woodwork hydrated. The main cedar columns were prepared by soaking in the adjacent lake. The Mihrab (central prayer-direction niche) is especially beautiful.Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    The Hitite monument.
    The Taurus mountains are covered with snow.At the entrance of the Hitite monument, three strong oxen.From village to village, minarets look alike, only the color of the top cone varies.In the background mountains are snowed up.On the north-oriented slope, the universe of snow and ice.Effort keeps us warm.The sun just disappeared, and it starts to pinch!1I am warm and he is freezing his fingers taking a silly shot. He-he.😋We have managed breakfast! A sunny day beckons.

    Frost in Hitite land

    27 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    Our time in Türkiye is coming to an end. In three days, we should be in Konya to prepare for the flight home. We arrange to pay an overdue visit to the Hitites, who ruled Anatolia from 1500 to 1000 BCE, said to have been the first to develop iron tools and weapons. After a scenic and freezing ride along the lake, we find a very peaceful monument, assembled from individual sculptures carved in volcanic rock.

    Going east, we ride along a little road through villages, meadows and broad mountains. Sure enough, the road narrows, turns to dirt and then mud, and the mudgards fill up. By now, we know what to do and we sort ourselves out.

    The mountains are shining with snow. As we climb, the temperature drops, and we cycle amongst snow and ice. A gentle meadow welcomes us at 1650m. It is comfortable until sunset, then a serious cold sets in. Time to "dance the warm-up" and brace for a night of -8C in the tent. There is no wind, and we survive well. A lonesome mini-minaret provides a local retransmission of prayers and keeps us company.

    This is such a powerful experience, every moment of the night inspires peace and beauty.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Lunch is in the oven
    Leaving our chilly but beautiful night stop behindAlmost alive rock formations1The site of the ancient town of Lystra, visited by St PaulInvited out for lunch with local workersPitched on the pass. We came from here...... and we are heading for the plain below2Sunrise

    Cold toes, warm hearts

    28 novembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    It’s a really chilly morning to be descending from the pass. Luckily its sunny, so hopefully that waterbottle will start to melt soon. Long narrow bands of distinctive rock formations line our route all morning.

    At lunchtime we divert to pick up provisions. Spending a euro on bread and fruit, somehow we end up being treated to a traditional local lunch with workers. A very nice and typically Turkish touch. Freshly baked flat breads, topped with meat, just out of the oven. And a refreshing yoghurt drink that we have taken to.

    As with almost all our turkish interactions, this is exclusively with turkish men. In rural areas women are very much in the background and do not interact much with us. We only ever see men driving tractors, the women are only ever passengers. Women work in the fields or are with children.

    Our night time pitch is on the next pass beside a good dirt road. We have views over the coming Konya valley and back to where we have come from. It’s just above zero and feels much easier than the night before.

    Overnight, the wind picks up considerably - we are exactly placed for maximally catching the wind. It has the perk that the tent is dry in the morning - the first time in weeks. As we battle the wind to take down the tent, a lorry driver arrives to deliver us two fresh sesame bread loops, and another then stops by to see what we are up to. It makes for a heart warming start to the day.    Leggi altro

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    Replica of a vulture and headless (dead) humans in Çatalhöyük.
    Mock up of a possible rendition of the neolithic city layout.How experts imagine a family cave.Excavated dwellings, showing adjacent walls and absence of doors.Ceramic figurine of a bear.Wall painting of an ancient bull. It must have been a big deal!These people not only established some cultivating, they also kept hunting.ElkAnd a big deerOn route to Konya. The area around Çatalhöyük is very flat and the sky is huge.

    Cave city

    29 nov–2 dic 2023, Turchia ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Lors du planning, nous apercevons sur la carte un site, situé un peu plus loin que Konya. Nous decidons de faire un dernier crochet pour aller voir cet endroit peu ordinaire.

    Çatalhöyük est une trouvaille archéologique qui vient expliquer la nature des collines aux sommets aplatis que l'on peut observer dans la plaine de Konya. Il s'agit d'une ancienne ville Néolithique, habitée de 8000 à 5000 ans AEC (Avant l'Ère Commune, autrefois avJC, BCE in English).

    La plus remarquable caractéristique de cet habitat est que les maisons n'avaient pas de portes: on y pénétrait par le toit (plus ou moins plat) et l'on passait ainsi d'une maison à l'autre! Pas de rue donc. Les maisons, d'un seul volume, étaient collées simplement les unes aux autres, ne laissant que des espaces limités pour rejeter les ordures. Chiens et vautours (apprivoisés?) devaient se charger de les faire disparaître. Disons que ces peuples avaient construit avec des briques des habitations qui ressemblaient à des petites cavernes pour une famille. Les maisons étaient a demi-démolies tous les 60 ans environs et de nouvelles reconstruites en utilisant les ruines de l'ancienne comme fondation. Au cours des siècles une colline se formait ainsi.

    De belles peintures murales representent cerf, chevreuil, sanglier et auroch, sans compter de nombreux humains et des ours, très mignons. Les fouilles révèlent outils, récipients de toutes tailles, bijoux et figurines; et bien sûr des squelettes de personnes de la famille enterrées dans un coin de la maison destiné à cet usage.

    Cette colonie qui atteignit une taille très importante, on parle de plusieurs milliers d'habitants, est le site de cette période le plus vaste connu au monde. Il est encore en préparations pour accueillir les visiteurs -- nous en profitons pour explorer gratis, sans depenser nos dernières livres turques.    Leggi altro

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieViaggiatore
    The spectacular tiled roof over Rumi's mausoleum
    The bigger and more turns in your tomb hat the more holy you wereRoofs of the mosque and the dervish cellsPraying at the tomb of RumiPrayer and video games in this family groupThe orchestra1Our tired but stupendous legs. Well done legs.

    Whirling home

    1 dicembre 2023, Turchia ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Two days in Konya to prepare our bikes for the journey home and do a little sightseeing. Konya is the resting place of Rumi (also known as Mevlana), the 13th century poet and a leader of the Sufi branch of Islam. The Mevlana museum and mausoleum is an important place of pilgrimage which we of course visit. It contains the tomb of Rumi and many other Sufi stalwarts. It also houses the cells and kitchen of the dervishes (Sufi disciples). Sufism is known for its Whirling Dervishes. For our final evening we are lucky enough to attend a public, but religious, Whirling Dervish ceremony. Each part of the dance and ceremony has a particular meaning. It is serene, spiritual and beautiful to behold and a fitting way to end our trip.Leggi altro

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    Fine del viaggio
    2 dicembre 2023