Destination Asie

Follow us as we wend our way from Austria towards Turkey and the start of the East. Читать далее

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День 63
понедельник, 6 ноября 2023 г., 13:12
☀️ 23 °C
Высота: 123 м
Турция Gülpınar 39.532814, 26.11971739°31’58” N 26°7’11” E
The God of Mice
6 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We are heading towards and then along the coastline south of Troy. Yet again we have a headwind and progress is hard won. Tomorrow there are gales forecast from the south. It is time to find somewhere to hole up. We strike lucky with a pleasant and inexpensive hotel looking out over the sea. Not only that but the next morning two other cyclists roll in - also stymied by the wind. We have not seen other touring bikes since Kosovo so it is good fun to swap stories. Meanwhile the warm wind howls, the thunder claps and we have a huge deluge and several power cuts.

Our legs decide a 2nd rest day is a good plan. The tumble drier on the balcony provides an almost instant drying service… just so long as things can be securely tied on.
Finally we are off once more. First up are the ruins of Alexandria Troas including temple and baths. We appreciate quiet paved roads through the olive groves.

At lunch time we roll into Güpinar and the temple of Apollo Smintheus - the god of mice (protecting farmers from the mice). Its peaceful and a lovely place and we appear it have it to ourselves. We admire the columns of the temple and the holy road back to Alexandria - used only by pedestrians. There are freshly fallen bursting pomegranates from the storm that Alain picks up for Alice to eat.

Turning the corner we bump into 4 Americans:
Them: Its getting crowded around here
Us: Yes, it is a bit
Them: Wow. Did you cycle here?
Alain: Yes! How did you figure that out?
Them: Well. The clue would be the helmet on your head….

We continue on across a dry and open rolling landscape.Читать далее
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ПутешественникBumping into so many others must have been a little pleasant surprise, as was your little idilic accomodation find!
02.12.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 63
понедельник, 6 ноября 2023 г., 17:03
☀️ 23 °C
Высота: 189 м
Турция Assos 39.492149, 26.33632939°29’32” N 26°20’11” E
Assos
6 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
After visiting Apollo, God of mice, the road goes uphill at every village, and very fast down afterwards. So, we discover with tired legs the superb view on the site of Assos perched up high, 230 very steep meters above the sea. We are greeted by a statue of Aristotle who lived here (as well as in Lesbos). There follows a last effort to climb the paved street to the archaeological site before closure.

The late afternoon view over the sea and the Island of Lesbos are our reward. Besides the remains of the temple of Athena we can admire a 14th century mosque, and byzantine walls, all with a characteristic construction using large stones interleaved with bricks. In the last 20 minutes before closure, we run down to admire a small outdoors theater facing the sea, and then run back up.

We cycle down a paved road to a good hotel room and the quiet beauty of the harbour. Fishing boats turn in and clean up their nets. We learn how to water-spray cats and dogs to discourage them from jumping on our laps for dinner. One of them ends up having an impromptu swim after which he is much more polite.Читать далее
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ПутешественникYou learned many things on this trip...not sure the water spray trick was one you had thought might ever be useful. Surprises and joys of traveling!
02.12.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 65
среда, 8 ноября 2023 г., 09:35
☀️ 16 °C
Высота: 708 м
Турция Kozak 39.243355, 27.11267939°14’36” N 27°6’46” E
Pines and pilgrims
8 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
A recurring issue in Turkey is the lack of information on the state of smaller roads. Our map is a 1:800 000 scale, and open street map has no idea whether small roads will be dirt or tarmac. For a significant climb, a poor dirt road is pretty daunting. And if its muddy it can be impassable. This makes choosing our route a major lottery.

After yesterday’s non too inspiring coastal route through miles of resort apartments, we are relieved and delighted to find a small but a proper road up and through the mountains. Hurrah. We climb through olive groves being harvested by family groups, and then beautiful pine covered hillsides. Ahead of us are three french pilgrims with their 2 dogs. They are walking from Paris to Jerusalem, travelling without money. Hats off to them.

Over the pass, there are huge granite boulders amongst the pines, and many many quarries. Soon it is the long easy descent into Bergama with Pergamon perched enticingly above.Читать далее
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ПутешественникHats off to all you travellers as you conquer with such positivity the challenges you all encounter.
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День 66
четверг, 9 ноября 2023 г., 13:00
☁️ 17 °C
Высота: 74 м
Турция Bergama 39.126663, 27.19252239°7’36” N 27°11’33” E
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Pergamon
9 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
In Bergama we stay with Metin, a generous dentist and amateur cyclist, who lets us use a spare room and kitchen in his clinic for two nights; it’s our first use of the ‘warmshowers’ program in Turkey and it’s really nice!

On the nearby hill, dominating the valley, is the site of Pergamon, the ancient city where Greeks, Persians, Macedonians, Trace, Romans, Byzantines and a few more held headquarters of a once powerful city and state. Our visit is generously bathed by multiple interventions of rain, sun, and wind.

On top of the hill, we admire a temple to the glory of Trajan the Roman emperor who was deified — what is left of his statue reveals that he did not mind the terrestrial goodies of Roman banquets ;-). An interesting feature of visiting ruins is that parts of the construction, originally intended to be hidden, are revealed: the huge podium supporting the temples was built on a multi-vaulted structure anchoring it on the rock, which is perfectly preserved.

The most spectacular remain is that of a very steep Greek theatre carved in the hillside; sitting near the top row for a little snack, we can only imagine what it once was for a play, a singing contest, or a beautiful sunset. Rain kicks us off our daydreaming.

Back in the city we visit the bazaar, manage to buy two pairs of socks, and stock up for dinner, including a stop at the “patiseri” — pastry shop. We joyfully share cooking and dinner with Metin and his old dad, who expresses his satisfaction with the roasted chicken thighs.Читать далее
Путешественник What an engineering feat!
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День 67
пятница, 10 ноября 2023 г., 17:48
☁️ 19 °C
Высота: 56 м
Турция Magnesia ad Sipylum 38.61264, 27.44781938°36’46” N 27°26’52” E
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The Atatürk
10 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
It surprised us when we arrived in Türkiye to see just how many flags and pictures of the Atatürk there are everywhere. This morning in Bergama, Alice nips out with the rubbish, just after a siren has sounded, and on the way back notices all the people in the street standing silent and to attention. This evening, in the city of Manisa, our bedroom overlooks a school playground; at 6pm all the kids gather outside to receive prizes and then sing the national anthem. We do some research. Today is the anniversary of the death of the Atatürk, the man who turned Türkiye into a secular republic. Just before we arrived, Türkiye celebrated 100 years of being a republic. Now we understand.

The weather is not great so we book another warmshowers night, this time with Soykan in Turgutlu. He returned to his home town to farm family olive trees. He speaks perfect english thanks to time living and working in the US and UK. It’s really nice to chat and eat together with this delightful and generous man.Читать далее
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Путешественник What craftsmanship!
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День 69
воскресенье, 12 ноября 2023 г., 12:14
☁️ 20 °C
Высота: 100 м
Турция Sardis 38.488865, 28.04269238°29’20” N 28°2’34” E
The synagogue of Sardis
12 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
After warm goodbyes to Soykan, we pedal along the highway, on the side of which many shops and even motels can easily be found. Our next stop is the more than 35 centuries old city of Sardis, ancient capital of the 7th and 6th century BCE Lydian kings — including Craesus, famous for his riches (“riche comme Crésus” is a popular French expression). The Roman bath establishment was located next to a 12 metre wide road, which has remained a major highway for over 3000 years. It was certainly prosperous! You can see where there were shops, a large town entrance and the pools at three different temperatures.

Probably the most unique part of the visit is the large synagogue, dating from the 3rd century. The local governor had sent an invitation across the Roman Empire to all Jews, to come and settle in his town, to enlarge and enrich it. The synagogue seems to be the largest in the western diaspora. What remains are the restored walls and floor of a large building that was beside the baths, with columns, mosaic floors and remarkable interior decorations. University groups from Columbia (New York), Harvard (Massachusetts) and Istanbul collaborate in the discovery, excavation and preservation.

We continue our route on a small road in the vineyards, along a scenic range of mountains. Clouds and sunshine, patches of rain and fog among hills, peaks and cliffs, create for us a free show of natural beauty. A few kilometres before Alasehir, our destination, a large number of pipes seem to emerge from the hills into the vineyards, some converging into large fuming cooling towers. We guess that these are geothermal installations collecting the heat from the tectonic terrain. This is confirmed by Soykan via WhatsApp: locals use the energy for heating and electricity.Читать далее
ПутешественникLa personne turque en habit typique semble néanmoins porter des "crocs"
19.11.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникBien vu! Comme la culture musulmane requiert d'enlever ses chaussures avant d'entrer chez soi ou chez les autres, la babouche, facile à mettre et démettre, s'est développée. La version moderne en plastique, c'est tongues, sandales non fermées et, souvent, crocs.
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День 70
понедельник, 13 ноября 2023 г., 12:06
☁️ 20 °C
Высота: 216 м
Турция Emcelli 38.227638, 28.71771838°13’39” N 28°43’4” E
The grape detour
13 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Sometimes it takes a really crummy day to realise that a change is needed. Our planned and advised route, chosen because of a lack of sane alternative, turns out to be a much busier and faster road than we had expected. By 11, a has-not-slept-enough Alice rebels. We decide, hesitantly, to try the unknown, despite impending rain. Five km later, as we pause, a passing farmer signals for us to follow him - he has grapes he wants to give us. He also advises (with some help from google translate) that the road ahead is “broken in the rain” and is adamant that we should go back. So that was a 10km detour for a large bag of freshly picked delicious grapes and an uplifting exchange with a kind farmer.

Back to the horrible main road. We climb in and out of rain, eventually reaching a bridge where our safe but noisy hard shoulder disappears. Alice just can’t bring herself to brave the traffic. Eventually Alain figures out that we may be able to cross below on rough tracks. There we find a muslim cemetery complete with washing area which has water, shelter and benches. The rain sets in and we pitch the tent in the field next door as the light drops. We snuggle down quickly, too tired to even cook.Читать далее
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ПутешественникWow wow... jusqu'où allez-vous? Baisers Christine
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ПутешественникNous allons jusqu'à Konya, avion le 2 décembre... encore 7-8 jours de vélo, bisoux!
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День 71
вторник, 14 ноября 2023 г., 13:46
☀️ 16 °C
Высота: 350 м
Турция Narlıdere Mevki 38.083427, 28.94422338°5’0” N 28°56’39” E
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Mud, Pomegranates and Tripolis
14 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Our target today is to reach Pamukkale before sunset -- with as little as possible of either motorway or dirt road. So we choose a longer and hillier detour, which hopefully will fit the bill.

After a restorative sleep, we are ready to go... only to find out we have a flat tire to fix. Since nobody can be blamed, this puts us in an excellent mood, and we are off by 11:00.

Alice conscientiously observes the little roads of the same class as our planned detour -- and convinces herself that we have more than 50% chance to be on asphalt. To this, Alain replies that since the uncertain road is downhill, it does not matter either way. Once an optimist...

It's a dirt road. The entrance looks good enough, and we rely on Alain's argument. After a couple of kilometres and a serious downhill, the dirt has transformed into heavy sticky mud -- we have seen this before (see day 44, in Macedonia). Alice is stuck, mudgards full; turning back up is not a great option, and carrying the bikes (that we can’t lift) for the remaining 12km of detour isn't a good one either.

So, we pick a pomegranate. Then proceed to fix the problem with the total removal of Alice's mudguards. The road, or rather trail, takes us, not without some vertiginous moments, into an isolated valley. As it becomes deeper and deeper, we see the remnants of old settlements, sometimes carved into the cliffs of the gorge. Now the detour pays off!!!

Ultimately, we arrive in the plain and orchards. Just as we pause to fix a stay for tonight, a handsome farmer named Muratl stops in his shiny orange Renault 12 and invites us for tea with huge enthusiasm. He displays a formidable harvest of pomegranates and an unlikely dexterity with his mobile phone. Still uncertain of where we sleep, we accept, "just for 5 minutes". This is a hilarious moment, in which we get selfied with Muratl and a few others, appear live on YouTube, get to pose at the wheel of his bright orange R12, and get offered the three best juiciest pomegranates ever.

Having fixed the evening plan, we pass by Tripolis, a recent archeological find, an old town covering a whole hill side. The excavations of the site are still in progress, but we get to tour some important parts the city. Paved floors and a well-preserved network of terra cotta water pipes are fascinating. The afternoon sun creates marvels of his own.Читать далее
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Путешественник magnifique grenade
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ПутешественникThe friendliness of peolpe you met is a testament to you both.
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День 72
среда, 15 ноября 2023 г., 10:19
Высота: 359 м
Турция Pamukkale White Terraces 37.926533, 29.12352637°55’36” N 29°7’25” E
1 1
Hierapolis travertines
15 ноября 2023 г., Турция
Its really hard not to think it has just snowed under the palm trees. We are looking up at Hierapolis from the village of Pamukkale about to visit the dual Unesco site ( the travertines and the ruined city). The enthralling white hillside is formed of calcium carbonate deposits from the thermal springs above. We walk up barefoot through this wonderful place enjoying the non slippery texture under our feet and the warm waters that are tumbling down.Читать далее
Путешественник What contrast provide by those white cliffs!!!
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Путешественник Love the rugged nature you contuousisly have discovered.
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День 72
среда, 15 ноября 2023 г., 12:13
☀️ 17 °C
Высота: 429 м
Турция Pamukkale White Terraces 37.927895, 29.13886537°55’40” N 29°8’20” E
Hierapolis ruins
15 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
The thermal waters of Hierapolis have been used for curative purposes from around 200 BC. The site is located just above the travertines with wonderful views. It continued to be used for centuries until earthquakes finally got the better of it in the 14th century. Its a huge area with massive necropolis, ruined baths and a particularly big and well preserved amphitheater, not to mention the temples, a 20m wide street, latrines and gates. A recently excavated temple over the source of the water was used for sacrifices - the animals being suffocated from the CO2.Читать далее
ПутешественникThose arhictects were so clever all those years ago with what they created with their simple tools and manpower.
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День 74
пятница, 17 ноября 2023 г., 17:47
☁️ 13 °C
Высота: 1 130 м
Турция Salda 37.554592, 29.65008237°33’17” N 29°39’0” E
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Salda Gölü
17 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
As we leave Pamukkale, the weather is grey, windy, threatening. The next destination is 110km, and a 1370m high pass away. We plan to pitch the tent 8 km from the pass in Karaçai. We bravely climb through a few showers, the traffic is sparse, and it's wild. As we enter Karaçai to ask where we could stay, a happy gang invites us for freshly-made fritters and chai. This is much welcome in this weather. After much laughter, small chat and 3 of each, we enquire about pitching a tent. "There is a place on the plateau 6 km away, the guard will help you! It's open, there are warm showers etc..."

After 8 km of climbing in fog, drizzle, and crepuscule, we have reached the place. It's advertised. It's at our 1370m pass. It's very windy... and.it's.closed. We retreat in the field across the road, a place beckons under that pine. We mud-up our wheels and mudgards for the third time but manage to pitch, peg, cook, in the howling darkness. We are soon tucked in, with only the fear that the mud blocks will freeze on our wheels.

The next day is sunny. Nothing, and nobody froze. We travel by villages and farmland, and by midafternoon arrive in sight of a marvellous little volcanic lake with bright blue waters and white sand. We download our panniers in our room, and treat ourselves to a little tour along the coast until sunset.Читать далее
Путешественник Great spot to recover...you guys are inspirational!
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День 76
воскресенье, 19 ноября 2023 г., 14:13
☁️ 4 °C
Высота: 1 176 м
Турция İğdeli 37.533825, 30.17068937°32’2” N 30°10’14” E
Chai, Snow and Penguins
19 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C
Eating out in Salda proves to be one of its highlights. Largely for the lovely interactions we have. Our first meal is piping hot and freshly cooked. The central wood stove heats us and the Chai (tea) and bakes onions and potatoes which are an unexpected addition to our meal. Once we and the other couple are served, the rest of the family sits down and eats alongside us.

Since we have a nice view and a wild day is forecast we take a rest day. The second night, we inadvertently end up barging into a family meal. They still seem delighted by our visit. The 15 year old daughter is in charge of translation, and our order, plus photos and instagram. Its charming. And of course we are served Chai.

The Turkish Chai pot is a double stacked teapot with the upper pot (which has the brew) serving as the lid for the lower pot (which has the hot water for dilution). Chai is served in tiny glasses plus or minus sugar.

Our ride today is seriously chilly. All those layers that we had forgotten about at the bottom of the pannier are now needed. We get lightly dusted with tiny snow flakes. Its too cold to hang around or take photos. Whilst we have been keeping an unsuccessful eye out for penguins on our trip, now Alice is so heavily wrapped up she feels like a penguin.

We head into a small village to look for milk. The shop is closed but we are enthusiastically invited in for Chai. This time a cosy room filled with men chatting, playing a rummy type game and drinking Chai. A local piano teacher has a little english and chats with us. Its lovely to feel so welcomed by the locals. And an added bonus: Alice is delighted to regain communication with her toes.Читать далее
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ПутешественникWhat hidden joys you have discovered along the way.
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День 77
понедельник, 20 ноября 2023 г., 12:30
☀️ 5 °C
Высота: 1 521 м
Турция Soğanlı 37.57386, 30.25895737°34’26” N 30°15’32” E
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Anatolie au soleil
20 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C
Grand soleil. La tente est couverte de grains de glace, il doit faire -1⁰C. Ça s'annonce bien, à part une bonne bagarre avec le réchaud à pétrole qu'Alice finit par gagner en utilisant la cartouche de gaz de secours : le gaz chasse liquide et particule(s) qui bloquaient le système.

Nous pédalons avec grand plaisir sur le plateau d'Anatolie, émerveillés par les montagnes qui nous entourent, saupoudrées de la neige d'hier et de la nuit. Nous découvrons enfin ce plateau d'Asie mineure et son ciel immense, pour lequel nous avons entrepris ce long voyage.

Notre étape du soir est en fait un élevage de truites, qui sont bien sûr au menu. Notre hôte arrive dans la chambre avec un grand plateau rond: truite grillée, yaourt bien épais (on dirait 'fromage blanc' en France), salade assaisonnée au citron, sauce tomate-piment, quelques frites, halva pour le dessert.Читать далее
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Путешественникprofitez bien de ces paysages
25.11.2023ОтветитьПереводить
Путешественник Will prepare a hearty meal to fatten those bones when you are back!
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ПутешественникOoohh Yesss Yummm
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День 78
вторник, 21 ноября 2023 г., 14:57
☀️ 9 °C
Высота: 1 501 м
Турция Sagalassos 37.676399, 30.519437°40’35” N 30°31’10” E
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The sacred mountain
21 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
If an ancient Alice was going to choose an ancient site to live in, Sagalassos would have to be it. Perched high on the edge of the Taurus mountains of Anatolia it commands wonderful views all around. It lies between 1400 and 1700m above sea-level so a visit comes at a certain cost to our intrepid cyclists.

It originated as an Iron age settlement. The high placement gave a defensive advantage and was away from the swampier valley land. A good water supply and agriculture meant that the site was self sufficient. It was occupied until the 7th century when once more a massive earthquake struck. Temples were dedicated to ancient gods and the town was laid out in harmony with the setting. The several Nyphaea (water fountains), were aligned so they could appear as just one mega-fountain. Most of all we just love the beautiful setting on a wonderfully sunny day high in the mountains.Читать далее
ПутешественникWow! I loved Athens, but this is even more amazing.
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Путешественник What a hidden treasure. Turkey has so much to offer.
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ПутешественникTotally get why anyone would consider living there.
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День 79
среда, 22 ноября 2023 г., 11:01
☁️ 10 °C
Высота: 954 м
Турция Menevsik 37.553768, 30.89269137°33’14” N 30°53’34” E
Taurus in the mist
22 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
Mardi soir. La météo prédit de sérieuses pluies samedi et dimanche prochain, ce qui fait que la dernière fenêtre est vendredi pour passer un grand col en chemin de terre situé à 150km d'ici. Deux belles étapes nous attendent donc mercredi et jeudi.

Petit déjeuner servi specialement tôt, à 7h45, nous prenons la route avant 9h00. Il fait froid sur le plateau à 1200m et de plus en plus gris. Nous sortons de la grand-route pour suivre une petite rivière dans le brouillard, qui crée un jeu irréel de couleurs d'automne, de prairies et de roches. Soudain des falaises se dressent devant nous. La route se faufile. Émergent de la brume une profonde gorge, un capharnaüm de pics, de falaises, d'éboulis, de précipices. Émerveillement.

Nous perdons plus de 700 mètres d'altitude dans cette gorge, qu'il faut regagner à pédales dans une belle forêt sur l'autre versant. Il pleuviote. Après quelques heures de ces merveilles mouillées, nous trouvons un coin pour camper. La 'Jandarma' nous fait un peu peur en passant par là, girophares allumés -- mais elle ne faisait que passer...

Sur la carte il y un gros 'T' près de notre route. La premiere lettre du mot TOROSLAR. Nous somme dans les montagnes du Taurus....Читать далее
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Destination Asie Путешественник
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День 80
четверг, 23 ноября 2023 г., 15:31
⛅ 16 °C
Высота: 1 055 м
Турция Kasımlar 37.530804, 31.19543137°31’51” N 31°11’44” E
The glory of the Western Taurus
23 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Todays outstanding highlight comes in the afternoon. We have already enjoyed a morning of gorges and small mountain roads, the ruins of Adada and a remote mountain plain. And after the wet of yesterday, the warm drying sunshine is an especial pleasure. But it is as we turn a corner and ascend our final and biggest pass, that a high range of the Western Taurus mountains appear and capture our attention.

For the next hour or more we have wonderful vistas, low warm sunlight, golden autumnal colours and dark threatening clouds. This has to be one of the most scenic roads we have ridden in the whole trip. And its hard to imagine the colours and lighting being any better.

The experience is all the more striking as we will cross this range tomorrow on a high dirt road pass that we can see in the far distance.Читать далее
ПутешественникThe autumn scenes are so different but captivating. What experiences you have had.
02.12.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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Destination Asie Путешественник
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День 81
пятница, 24 ноября 2023 г., 11:40
🌩️ 10 °C
Высота: 1 651 м
Турция Kasımlar Bucağı 37.47332, 31.31928837°28’24” N 31°19’9” E
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The 1760m pass
24 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌩️ 10 °C
We quit the St Paul hostel on a cold, sunny morning to attack the big pass -- except that we go down 300 wonderful meters to cross the main valley. We will have to climb 1000m.

We first climb a charming and misty side valley, where plane trees grow in the wild. It clears up as we turn into a good quality dirt road; we never need to push the bicycles. The scenery is beautiful.

Just before the last hairpins, we get to a water point, good place for elevenses (snack de 11h, NDLR); some food is pulled out of Alice's pannier (sacoche). The scenery is becoming dramatic!

No joy is greater than reaching the pass and discovering another valley. Excitement also, as Alice calls, "Alain, come see!" -- TWO DOZEN WILD BOARS tumbling down the mountain. Did we scare them? or are they having fun?

The descent consists of 20km of much more painful mountain road, and we complete our 85km adventure -- totally zonked (crevés) -- in Beyşehir. Mustafa, head of the local cycling club, greats us generously: he offers a free hotel night if we wear the club's cycling shirt :-).

EPILOG As we unpack in our room at Paradise Suit Otel, Alice realizes with great upset that her waterproofs are missing. After consulting the photo collection, we diagnose unambiguously that they were last seen at the water point. In spite of a desperate rescue expedition the next day, they remain the largest lost item in "Destination Asie".Читать далее
ПутешественникWell lucky the lost item happened at the end....am sure many traveller's would have used the word lost a long time ago!
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Путешественник You are truly in the wild!
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День 83
воскресенье, 26 ноября 2023 г., 10:07
🌧 12 °C
Высота: 1 132 м
Турция Beyşehir 37.678802, 31.72319837°40’44” N 31°43’24” E
1 1
Beysehir
26 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
The weather forecast is wet and wild for the weekend and Alice now has no waterproofs other than Alain’s airy but trendy poncho. It seems a good moment for a pause.
The 13th century Esrefoglu mosque is a must-see. Its a flat topped structure with amazing internal woodwork. It completely stands out from the other mosques we have visited. In middle is a 3 metre deep open snow-hole in which snow was stored to keep the mosque cool and the woodwork hydrated. The main cedar columns were prepared by soaking in the adjacent lake. The Mihrab (central prayer-direction niche) is especially beautiful.Читать далее
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Путешественник Orange looks good on you!
02.12.2023ОтветитьПереводить
Путешественник Bet that orange poncho had a hell of a time!
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ПутешественникThe poncho was very happy!
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День 84
понедельник, 27 ноября 2023 г., 16:21
⛅ 0 °C
Высота: 1 608 м
Турция Yatağan 37.813988, 32.02682137°48’50” N 32°1’37” E
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Frost in Hitite land
27 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C
Our time in Türkiye is coming to an end. In three days, we should be in Konya to prepare for the flight home. We arrange to pay an overdue visit to the Hitites, who ruled Anatolia from 1500 to 1000 BCE, said to have been the first to develop iron tools and weapons. After a scenic and freezing ride along the lake, we find a very peaceful monument, assembled from individual sculptures carved in volcanic rock.

Going east, we ride along a little road through villages, meadows and broad mountains. Sure enough, the road narrows, turns to dirt and then mud, and the mudgards fill up. By now, we know what to do and we sort ourselves out.

The mountains are shining with snow. As we climb, the temperature drops, and we cycle amongst snow and ice. A gentle meadow welcomes us at 1650m. It is comfortable until sunset, then a serious cold sets in. Time to "dance the warm-up" and brace for a night of -8C in the tent. There is no wind, and we survive well. A lonesome mini-minaret provides a local retransmission of prayers and keeps us company.

This is such a powerful experience, every moment of the night inspires peace and beauty.Читать далее
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ПутешественникOh my goodness you brave traveller's. -8 in a tent! But the things you have seen and experienced are truly incredible. What a trip you have shared with us all...thank you.
03.12.2023ОтветитьПереводить
Путешественник I am not warm… just less cold. The sleeping bag is crunchy with ice on the outside and the waterbottles inside the tent are part frozen…
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ПутешественникThanks so much for sharing your journey Alice and Alain. It's been fascinating reading and learning from your essays and stunning photos!
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День 85
вторник, 28 ноября 2023 г., 07:49
⛅ -4 °C
Высота: 1 220 м
Турция Seçme 37.570759, 32.51010537°34’15” N 32°30’36” E
1 2
Cold toes, warm hearts
28 ноября 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C
It’s a really chilly morning to be descending from the pass. Luckily its sunny, so hopefully that waterbottle will start to melt soon. Long narrow bands of distinctive rock formations line our route all morning.

At lunchtime we divert to pick up provisions. Spending a euro on bread and fruit, somehow we end up being treated to a traditional local lunch with workers. A very nice and typically Turkish touch. Freshly baked flat breads, topped with meat, just out of the oven. And a refreshing yoghurt drink that we have taken to.

As with almost all our turkish interactions, this is exclusively with turkish men. In rural areas women are very much in the background and do not interact much with us. We only ever see men driving tractors, the women are only ever passengers. Women work in the fields or are with children.

Our night time pitch is on the next pass beside a good dirt road. We have views over the coming Konya valley and back to where we have come from. It’s just above zero and feels much easier than the night before.

Overnight, the wind picks up considerably - we are exactly placed for maximally catching the wind. It has the perk that the tent is dry in the morning - the first time in weeks. As we battle the wind to take down the tent, a lorry driver arrives to deliver us two fresh sesame bread loops, and another then stops by to see what we are up to. It makes for a heart warming start to the day.Читать далее
ПутешественникHeartwarming to read these stories of kindness to others despite our differences in language, lifestyle and cultures. But a testament you guys being so open to others warmth. You so deserved the kindness you experienced!
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Путешественник Looks amazing
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Путешественник magnifique
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Путешественник avez vs pris vos skis? il y a de la poudre sur les sommets 😂
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Destination Asie Путешественник
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День 86–89
29 ноября 2023 г., 12:39 - 2 декабря 2023 г.
3 ночи
☁️ 9 °C
Высота: 1 013 м
Турция Çatalhöyük 37.669453, 32.82479137°40’10” N 32°49’29” E
Cave city
29 нояб.–2 дек. 2023, Турция ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
Lors du planning, nous apercevons sur la carte un site, situé un peu plus loin que Konya. Nous decidons de faire un dernier crochet pour aller voir cet endroit peu ordinaire.

Çatalhöyük est une trouvaille archéologique qui vient expliquer la nature des collines aux sommets aplatis que l'on peut observer dans la plaine de Konya. Il s'agit d'une ancienne ville Néolithique, habitée de 8000 à 5000 ans AEC (Avant l'Ère Commune, autrefois avJC, BCE in English).

La plus remarquable caractéristique de cet habitat est que les maisons n'avaient pas de portes: on y pénétrait par le toit (plus ou moins plat) et l'on passait ainsi d'une maison à l'autre! Pas de rue donc. Les maisons, d'un seul volume, étaient collées simplement les unes aux autres, ne laissant que des espaces limités pour rejeter les ordures. Chiens et vautours (apprivoisés?) devaient se charger de les faire disparaître. Disons que ces peuples avaient construit avec des briques des habitations qui ressemblaient à des petites cavernes pour une famille. Les maisons étaient a demi-démolies tous les 60 ans environs et de nouvelles reconstruites en utilisant les ruines de l'ancienne comme fondation. Au cours des siècles une colline se formait ainsi.

De belles peintures murales representent cerf, chevreuil, sanglier et auroch, sans compter de nombreux humains et des ours, très mignons. Les fouilles révèlent outils, récipients de toutes tailles, bijoux et figurines; et bien sûr des squelettes de personnes de la famille enterrées dans un coin de la maison destiné à cet usage.

Cette colonie qui atteignit une taille très importante, on parle de plusieurs milliers d'habitants, est le site de cette période le plus vaste connu au monde. Il est encore en préparations pour accueillir les visiteurs -- nous en profitons pour explorer gratis, sans depenser nos dernières livres turques.Читать далее
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День 88
пятница, 1 декабря 2023 г., 07:35
🌙 3 °C
Высота: 1 020 м
Турция Konya 37.870182, 32.50517737°52’13” N 32°30’19” E
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Whirling home
1 декабря 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌙 3 °C
Two days in Konya to prepare our bikes for the journey home and do a little sightseeing. Konya is the resting place of Rumi (also known as Mevlana), the 13th century poet and a leader of the Sufi branch of Islam. The Mevlana museum and mausoleum is an important place of pilgrimage which we of course visit. It contains the tomb of Rumi and many other Sufi stalwarts. It also houses the cells and kitchen of the dervishes (Sufi disciples). Sufism is known for its Whirling Dervishes. For our final evening we are lucky enough to attend a public, but religious, Whirling Dervish ceremony. Each part of the dance and ceremony has a particular meaning. It is serene, spiritual and beautiful to behold and a fitting way to end our trip.Читать далее
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Путешественник A lovely treat to conclude your journey!
07.12.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникWhat a trip!
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Окончание поездки
2 декабря 2023 г.