Argentina
San Telmo

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90 travelers at this place:

  • Day19

    San Telmo Morning Walk

    November 20, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Today we spent time walking around the neighbourhood we stayed in, and the walk took us to San telmo which was lovely, we spent time looking in the many antique and crafty shops down the little alleyways and then found the central square, usually hosting a big antique market at the weekend! Unfortunately we missed it, but still had lots to offer with eatery places set up and street tango shows to watch over a coffee or cocktail 🍹😉Read more

  • Day27

    Day 25 - The Dead and Fine Arts

    January 22, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    During yesterday's planning, we explored going to Brazil. Research showed that we'd need a visa so we headed to the Brazilian consulate. They told us to come back at 2:00. So, we went to the La Recoleta Cemetery.

    The Cemetery is one of BA's most famous attractions. It was started in 1822 and now has about 4,800 mausoleums containing the mortal remains of BA's VERY rich and powerful (the saying is that it's cheaper to live an entire life of luxury than to be buried in La Recoleta). Also interred there are past presidents, military heroes, famous writers, and other notables. Free tours in English can be had but we were early for that and got an English-speaking guide. She showed us around the four-square blocks of tombs. The mausoleums are ornate and grandiose in a hodgepodge of styles, including art nouveau, art deco, classical, Greek, baroque, neo-gothic, and more. They are decorated with angels, crosses, wreaths, urns, gargoyles, and more in various types of marble, metal, and stone. Our guide showed us several specific tombs and related stories about them and the people buried there. Of particular note were the tombs of former president Sarmiento and, of course, Eva Duarte de Peron - Evita. Hers is the most visited but not the grandest. It is a fascinating place and one could wander and gawk for hours.

    After the tour, we sat for a juice at and outdoor cafe then looked into the Fraciscan Basilica de Pilar next to the Cemetery (the city fathers took the Franciscan's gardens to create the Cemetery). We walked to the Museum of Fine Arts and wandered through that for an hour. The Museum has a wide-ranging collection of paintings and sculptures, including works by Monet, Degas, Rodin, Toulouse Lautrec, Sisley, Van Gogh, Manet, Renoir, Matisse, and many more. I was impressed with the breadth of the collection. We walked over to the huge (70 feet tall) polished metal sculpture of a generic flower (in United Nations Park). This flower was created and donated to BA by an architect in 2002. It originally opened in the morning and closed at night like a flower but the mechanism broke and hasn't been repaired.

    Took a taxi back to the Brazilian Consulate but were a bit early so we had a salad lunch at a modern cafe up the street. At the Consulate, they wanted a complicated application for an expensive long-duration visa. We just wanted a few-day tourist visa. They gave us a website to visit for an online application. Another taxi to a site close to our apartment, the Zanjon de Granados. This architectural site is the privately funded restoration of a series of tunnels, cisterns, and aqueducts dating from the 1730s and 1850s that was discovered when the developer was going to build a restaurant on the site. He was so impressed that he had the site excavated and restored and now has guided tours. It was fascinating and quite different from anything else we'd seen.

    Back at the apartment I tried to do the visa application but ran into various problems. We may just be satisfied with the view of Iguazu from the Argentine side of the falls. Ate in, relaxed, and did some planning for tomorrow.

    The mausoleum with all the flowers is Evita's.
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  • Day25

    Day 22 - Around Buenos Aires

    January 20, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    A sunny morning greeted us with the forecast high of 76 for today. We'd docked in Buenos Aires early.

    Outside the port we connected with our tour guide for the walking tour we'd arranged. As we headed out by bus to pick up more people, our guide explained some things. The Argentine inflation rate last year was more than 450% (in Uruguay, it was 4.8%). She explained how it is hard to cope with such inflation - especially since the new government has frozen salaries. She, herself, is going to Uruguay next month to begin working for Hyatt Hotels. We picked up the rest of our group and went to the start of the walk - the La Boca neighborhood.

    La Boca (the mouth) is the site of the first settlement in Buenos Aires. It's now a bohemian area with nearly all the houses planted with extensive, colorful street art. We walked through the barrio, past the stadium of Argentina's biggest soccer team, Boca Juniors, and into the the San Telmo neighborhood. This is one of the upscale areas and we stopped for a break. The houses are a mix of old (1880s) style and somewhat newer (1930s) style buildings built right next to each other. We had a Pesi and soda water at an old bar whose wood paneling was carved with patron's names and initials. We hadn't changed money but they were happy to take dollars - even eager. In the square where we stopped, a couple danced tangos for the crowd.

    More walking past churches and hi-rises to Plaza de Mayo. It was here, in 1810, that the country declared its independence. The obelisk in the center commemorates the event. One one side stands the pink presidential building; on another corner stands the municipal cathedral (where Pope Francis worked before being raised). The Plaza is famous, also, for as the meeting place (every Thursday) of the Mothers of May. These are the mothers and grandmothers of some of the 30,000 people who "disappeared" under the last dictatorship.

    We walked on to Plaza Liberador. Here, in a large green space, a grand statue honors the general who led the fight against the Spanish, Jose de San Martin. Down the hill from the statue is a memorial commemorating the fallen from the disastrous Falklands war - strategically placed opposite the British Tower. We caught a bus up Santa Fe street and got off to visit the famous bookstore, El Ateneo (Athens), housed in a former grand theater.

    More walking (it was billed as a seven-hour tour) took us to the square in front of the Recoleta Cemetery. We had lunch in an open terrace. Gail was done with walking so, even though the tour was to take a guided tour of the Cemetery, we opted for a taxi ride back to the ship.

    Since we were disembarking tomorrow, we packed our suitcases and overnight bags. Before going to the show, we set our suitcases out to be delivered to us at the terminal tomorrow. The show was four Gauchos performing percussion and dance with some whip cracking in between - not so impressive. We had our last dinner with our German table mates, Hans and Ottie, and exchanged contact information. Our California table mates didn't show, Silvia being still too fluish.

    Tomorrow off the ship and to our apartment for seven days.
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  • Day26

    Day 23 - San Telmo

    January 21, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Final packing, breakfast and waiting to disembark took up the early morning. We disembarked about 10:00 and caught a taxi to the apartment in San Telmo that Gail had arranged for the next week. The owner was there just finishing the clean up from the guests who had just departed. He gave us a rundown of the apartment and suggested places around the neighborhood, then left.

    The apartment is modern and spacious with two bedrooms, full kitchen, one and a half baths, and a long balcony overlooking Peru Street. It's on the third floor of a key-entry residential building. It is three blocks from Plaza Durrego, where we had stopped on yesterday's walk. A bit later, we went out exploring.

    San Telmo, in the mid-1800s, was the upscale neighborhood of the nascent city, with large, elaborate family mansions. In 1871, a yellow fever epidemic decimated the city and the rich fled the low-lying neighborhood near the river for higher ground to the northwest, leaving their mansions to decay. European immigrants began arriving and took over the abandoned mansions, converting them to tenements housing whole families in a single room. From the patios and balconies of these tenements, the people blended musical styles into what we know as tango. Once tango became internationally popular, the wealthy Argentines adopted it as the country's nation music.

    On Sundays, the area around Plaza Durrego is thronged with stalls for the weekly craft fair. It is a well-known event and locals and tourists come to stroll. We walked through the narrow, cobblestone streets lined with small, temporary booths selling crafts and antiques. There are leather goods (belts, purses), wood carvings, metal sculptures, knitted wool pieces, stone works, and more. The fair stretches for many blocks down Defensa Street and jams the small plaza. Naturally, there are tango demonstrations. We sat at a terrace bar and ordered beer and pizza. While we were waiting for our order, our California table mates from the Eclipse surprised us since they, too, were visiting the fair.

    We walked over to the roofed market, also thronged, and picked up some fruit and vegetables then stopped at a bakery for bread and pastries. Rested at the apartment then went back to Plaza Durrego and attended mass at the Church of San Pedro Gonzalas Telmo. On the way home we shopped for groceries for the week. We read up on things to do, had a light dinner, but soon went to bed (early, for a change).
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  • Day27

    Day 24 - Recovery

    January 22, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A day of recovery and planning.

    We slept in to help Gail get over her cold. She took advantage of having a washer to do several loads of wash and we looked at where we want to go after Buenos Aires. Made some reservations in El Calafate and explored options for Iguazu. Later we went to El Zanjon, a restored space of tunnels and cisterns, but found it was only by guided tour, which we'd already missed. Did some strolling/exploring around the neighborhood.

    I've mentioned that the economic situation is hard here for most people - rampant inflation, frozen salaries. In spite of that, there seems to be a lot of construction going on. As we look out on and walk the streets, we frequently see dumpster divers scouring for cardboard to recycle. As we sat in Plaza Durrego yesterday, we were approached every few minutes by beggars. That poses an ethical dilemma. We feel for the people but can't give to everyone so how do we choose who to give to? We haven't solved that dilemma, yet.

    For dinner we went to the corner just across the street to Bar Federal. This was the top listed dining spot in our guidebook for the San Telmo area. We had two great steak dinners. We were early (by Latin American standards) at 7:30 PM, but the old, wood-paneled bar filled up as we enjoyed our meal.

    Language is often a problem - in a different sense. My Spanish is pretty good so I try to speak it when dealing with the people we meet. Many people, however, speak English and we often wind up with me speaking Spanish to the Argentines while they respond in English. Sometimes it's just comical; other times it produces misunderstandings.

    Yes, that's a Buddah in the living room of the apartment. The owner lives in London and only comes back here during the summer. The apartment is furnished in a very eclectic style with modern furniture, old world accessories and avant garde art on the walls.

    The Bar Federal is on the corner. The sign says, "We're open when we arrive; we're closed when we leave."
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  • Day2

    Tres chica blancas

    May 18, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Hola señores and señoritas!
    We finally made it to the bustling metropolis that is Buenos Aires! High rise buildings and busy people fill the streets here. The cheerful sounds of the Spanish language and of course but who knew the darn pigeons....
    We began by exploring the few streets around us looking to buy some leche (milk) for our cup of teas! Turns out that leche indeed comes in a bag here 🤔.
    After a big nights sleep we dozily awoke and ventured out to Caminito, a VERY touristy but beautifully bright street situated in the barrio (district) of La Boca.
    We then went back to our old faithful cafe and restaurant Hierbabuena (hair-ba-bwen-a) meaning peppermint. Here they tend to speak to us in very quick Spanish whilst we nod and agree with a simple word ‘sí.’ They call us chicas and serve us delicioussssss organic, wholesome foods.
    Many a people have dogs here that they seem to enjoy walking. Interesting.
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  • Day4

    Tres gringos en Buenos Aires.

    May 20, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Hooley Dooley! 30kms later and we have trekked a whole lotta Buenos Aires! We ventured to the very crowded and quirky Feria de San Telmo. We glided through and gazed around at the endless (15 blocks of markets) stalls that lined the street that is Defensa. They had stalls of all kinds, kind of a flea market type feel. We met some whimsical, gypsy like people. The kind you would believe to be at such an enormous South American market. There were street performers and street foods and a lotttaaaa tourists from the US yawn.
    We slept well and reenergised for our next day. Today we spent the day roaming the narrow stony streets amongst the dead at the La Chacarita Cemetery (pretty much a resting place for the ritzy and their ancestors). Here ginormous graves lie with stone coverings and statues, very Catholic and kind of eery. Glad we went there in the day!
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  • Day31

    Day 30 - Last Tango in Buenos Aires

    January 26, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Another planning and recovery day. After the late night at the tango show, we slept in this morning. Spent time setting up our trip to Mendoza - flights and hotel.

    In the mid afternoon, we wandered over to Plaza Dorrego to look at the craft stalls, see some of the street art, and watch the tango dancers in the Plaza. Stopped at an internet cafe to print a couple tour tickets for El Calafate. Had a good, charbroiled hamburger on the corner then came back and called the kids.Read more

  • Day3

    Chillen in Puerto Madero

    January 7 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Die Innenstadt von Buenos Aires versteckt ihre europäischen Einflüsse nicht, wobei ich eher auf die ganzen hübschen Mädels hier als auf die Architektur geschaut habe. Da ich viel Zeit am Flughafen zugebracht hatte und es heute bisschen ruhiger angehen lassen wollte, bin ich vor allem die Uferpromende im Stadtteil Puerto Madero entlang spaziert, hab die Menschen (ja genau, besagte Mädels) beobachtet und den Sonnenuntergang mit ein paar Empanadas genossen. Letztere werden sicher zu einer meiner Hauptnahrungsmittel in nächster Zeit werden.

    Schließlich habe ich einen Bus zum anderen Flughafen der Stadt genommen, von wo aus morgen früh um 04:30 Uhr mein Flug nach Ushuaia geht. Wird wieder eine kurze Nacht im Flugzeug!
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  • Day177

    Buenos Aires

    September 14, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    In Buenos Aires war unsere erste Herausforderung, einen Parkplatz zu finden. Nach einigen Runden um den Block unseres Hostels wurden wir endlich fündig.

    Noch am gleichen Abend verabredeten wir uns mit Emilia und Lena, zwei Freundinnen aus der Heimat. Sie waren heute in der Stadt gelandet. Wir trafen uns in einem Restaurant, und auch Darlene, eine Freundin von Emilia die ein Auslandssemester in Buenos Aires macht, war dabei. Die Freude über das Wiedersehen war riesengroß, zum ersten Mal nach nun fast einem halben Jahr Reise trafen wir Freunde aus der Heimat. 😊

    Am nächsten Tag zogen wir erstmal unabhängig voneinander los, aber siehe da, wir trafen uns zufällig auf einem Food Market bei uns im Viertel, San Telmo. Dort probierten wir erst Ceviche und dann noch frisch gebackene Empanadas, die einfach genial schmeckten. Auch Locro, einen argentinischen Eintopf, probierten wir hier. Darlene und Katrin, die ebenfalls zum Auslandssemester hier ist, führten uns durch die Stadt. Wir besuchten einen schönen Hinterhof, liefen an einer Promenade entlang wo wir die berühmte Brücke de la Mujer sahen und gingen schließlich zum Plaza de Mayo, wo Proteste stattfanden. Die argentinische Währung hatte vor drei Wochen sehr stark an Wert verloren, nachdem eine Vorwahl anders als erwartet ausging. Dadurch sind die Preise stark gestiegen, die Löhne aber nicht, und deshalb protestieren die Menschen vor dem Präsidentenpalast. Manche können sich nichtmal mehr das Nötigste leisten und machen Hungerstreiks. Nach einer Pause am Nachmittag trafen wir uns zum Abendessen in einem typisch argentinischen Steakrestaurant, wo wir wieder richtig gut und günstig gegessen haben.

    Dann wollten wir mal wieder shoppen gehen! Mit Emilia und Lena trafen wir uns bei einem Shoppingcenter. Michael braucht neue Schuhe, aber nirgends gab es seine Schuhgröße 😂 Vielleicht haben die Leute hier alle kleinere Füße? Danach nahmen wir ein Taxi nach La Boca, einem Stadtteil in dem bunte Häuser stehen. Dort schlenderten wir noch ein bisschen rum, bevor wir ein Taxi zurück zum Hostel nahmen.

    Abends haben wir uns bei uns im Hostel getroffen: da wir mit einer anderen Reederei verschiffen werden als ursprünglich geplant, haben sich die Bedingungen geändert. Es dürfen keine Lebensmittel im Auto sein, auch kein Wein, was beim anderen Anbieter erlaubt war 😖 Das heißt wir hatten zu viel Wein eingekauft, und davon tranken wir zu siebt einige Flaschen und spielten Uno.

    Es war ein sehr lustiger Abend, aber am nächsten Tag bekamen wir wieder die Quittung dafür, alle waren mehr oder weniger verkatert 😂 Wie jeden Tag gingen wir erstmal zum Markt um was leckeres zu Essen zu suchen. Dann trafen wir die anderen, um zusammen ein bisschen spazieren zu gehen. Dabei besuchten wir auch die “Floralis Genérica“, eine 20 Meter hohe Blume aus Metall, die sich abhängig von der Uhrzeit öffnet und schließt. Wir setzten uns noch in ein Café, dann verabschiedeten wir uns. Emilia und Lena nahmen am Abend einen Nachtbus nach Iguazu. Wir gingen noch zu La Recoleta, einem riesigen Friedhof, auf dem im 19. und 20. Jahrhundert die bedeutendsten Personen der Stadt in großen Familiengruften begraben wurden. Von Präsidenten über Schauspieler und Wissenschaftler bis hin zu Profisportlern, hier liegen die reichen Leute. Manche Gruften sahen aus, als wären sie eine komplette Kirche.

    Zurück im Hostel machten wir eine Pause und ruhten uns aus, aber Abends rafften wir uns nochmal auf: um 22 Uhr sahen wir uns eine Tangoshow in einem traditionellen Tangoclub an. Es war beeindruckend, die Tänzer waren halbe Akrobaten und auch die Musik des Ensembles war genial. Zum Schluss trat noch ein berühmter, aber uns unbekannter Sänger und Schauspieler auf, Hugo Marcel. Ein sehr interessanter Einblick in die argentinische Kultur. In diesem Viertel, San Telmo, ist der Tango wohl groß geworden.

    An unserem letzten Tag in der Hauptstadt besuchten wir zuerst den japanischen Garten. Dieser Park ist zwar sehr schön angelegt, war aber fast schon überfüllt. Hätten wir uns aber auch denken können, denn es war Samstag. Wir versuchten noch auf einer anderen Shoppingmeile unser Glück für Michaels Schuhe, wurden aber auch dort nicht fündig. Es gab aber einen Buchladen, der in einem alten Theater war. So einen schönen Buchladen haben wir noch nie gesehen!

    Am späten Nachmittag wartete eine besondere Herausforderung auf uns: selber mal Tango tanzen. Gleich neben dem Hostel gab es eine Tanzschule, und dort versuchten wir unser Glück. Obwohl wir bei weitem keine Tänzer sind hat es echt Spaß gemacht, und die Lehrerin hat alles sehr gut erklärt. Wer weiß, vielleicht werden wir ja doch noch zu Tänzern. Zum Abendessen trafen wir uns nochmal mit Darlene, Katrin und Joost, Darlenes Freund, zum Abendessen. Die argentinische Küche hat uns bisher noch nie enttäuscht, auch die verschiedenen Eintöpfe schmecken uns gut.

    Am Sonntag verließen wir die Stadt in Richtung Uruguay. Buenos Aires hat uns richtig begeistert, es ist definitiv eine der schönsten und interessantesten Städte die wir bisher auf unserer Reise gesehen haben. 😊
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You might also know this place by the following names:

San Telmo, San Telmas, Сан-Тельмо, Barrio San Telmo

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