Argentina
San Nicolas

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288 travelers at this place

  • Day179

    Buenos Aires 1.0

    February 22 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Petite étape à Buenos Aires avant l’arrivée d’Ivan et Muriel. On avait réservé un super Airbnb pour l’anniversaire de Lisa histoire de passer quelques jours dans un endroit bien sympa au cœur de Buenos Aires. On en a profité pour se balader un peu, se cuisiner des bons petits plats et on a été chanceux car on est tombé le week-end du carnaval.Read more

  • Day59

    Buenos Aires

    March 4 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    C'est une capitale immense et tentaculaire qui s'étend dans toutes les directions, remplie de vie, de bruits, de gens, de musique (cumbia, tango, reggeton)!!
    Le contraste avec la Nouvelle-Zélande est impressionant. Ici, on traverse de larges boulevards de 7-8 pistes, on est bousculé par la foule énorme qui se presse sur les trottoirs, on essaie de se repérer au milieu de ces vertigineuses avenues rectilignes qui se croisent à angle droit. La vie nocturne est animée, les gens viennent manger au restaurant à 23h, service jusqu'à 1h du matin, et le boeuf est d'une qualité exceptionnelle.
    L'économie en Argentine se porte mal, une inflation galopante et incontrôlable fait monter les prix jour après jour et déprécie le peso argentin, ce qui est avantageux pour les touristes mais désastreux pour le pays. On nous propose partout de changer nos dollards US que nous n'avons pas ("Cambio, cambio!!"), on fait le tour des agences (guichet fermé, pas de système électronique) et, finalement, après une file d'une heure, on récupère nos précieux pesos.
    Quelques jours à s'habituer à la ville, à la langue, à la foule, on marche beaucoup le long des avenues interminables dans différents quartiers très typés : San Telmo et ses petites rues anciennes où s'alignent les boutiques d'antiquaires ; Puerto Madero avec ses édifices de brique rouge rénové d'un côté de la rivière et ses tours futuristes de l'autre ; Palermo-Soho, graffitis colorés, ruelles artistiques, et bars originaux ; et le cimetière de la Recoleta, "ville" miniature où l'on déambule entre les caveaux ouvragés comme dans des ruelles.
    On se prépare gentiment pour la suite, on refait (encore) une fois nos sacs à dos, on répare ses lunettes (hé oui! 😄) et on se rend au Terminal de bus. On quitte la ville dans un magnifique coucher de soleil, direction le Sud, le long de la côte atlantique.
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  • Day24

    Buenos Aires, the Paris of South America, definitely is deserving of its nickname as the South American version of the French capital. I totally agree. The city is so sophisticated, fashionable, and clean and refined. It's quite beautiful, with Spanish colonial-era buildings as well as with art-deco and colorful buildings. And of course, it's famous for the tango.
    アルゼンチンのブエノスアイレスは [南米のパリ] と呼ばれています。この街は品があって、とてもお洒落で、綺麗です。ブエノスアイレスは[南米のパリ]と名付けられて、ふさわしいです。本当に美しい街です。スペインの植民地時代の建物があり、アールデコや色鮮やかな建物もあります。もちろん、ブエノスアイレスはタンゴという踊りで有名です。
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  • Day29

    Day 27 - The Famous

    January 24, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today's theme was famous people.

    We started off at Plaza de Mayo, hoping to see the Mother's of Plaza de Mayo but the guidebook had the wrong time. On the one corner of the Plaza sits the Municipal Cathedral. This imposing, neo-classical building is where Pope Francis was prelate before being chosen. The interior has ornate, baroque details and a rococo altar. It is huge, with beautiful side chapels commemorating various saints and martyrs. We walked the aisles and sat awhile.

    In one, grandiose side mausoleum are the remains of Jose de San Martin, Argentina's most revered hero. San Martin led the fight for independence in the 1810s, then crossed the Andes and did the same for Chile, Peru, and Ecuador during roughly 15 years of fighting. That makes him a hero, not just here but in all of the continent. While in Peru and Ecuador, he fought alongside South America's other great liberator, Simon Bolivar. Bolivar was doing the same thing in Bolivia, Columbia, Venezuela, and
    Panama.

    Before leaving the cathedral, we bought some Pope Francis momentos then taxied to the Evita Museum.

    It is almost impossible to overstate how revered Eva Duarte de Peron is. She was, as cinema bluffs will recall, the wife of the immensely popular Juan Peron who was president from 1946 to 1954. Evita, however, was as popular or even more so than her husband. She was a radio and film actress before marrying Peron but as First Lady (and Vice President in Peron's second term), she was the champion of the poor, the "shirtless," and women. She instituted social reforms providing economic relief to the poor, built housing for them through the foundation she created, and forced through legislation giving women the right to vote. No wonder she is a quasi-saint even now. She died at 33 in 1952 from uterine cancer. Two, nine-story tall sculptures adorn the Ministry of Social Development building. This building sits in the middle of BA's 16-lane Ninth of July Boulevard, the widest street in South America. The sculptures are visible for miles.

    We toured the museum, which recounts her life and displays some of her dresses and house items. It shows videos clips of some her famous speeches and activities.

    We had a light lunch in the Museum cafe then walked to the MALBA, the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires. This museum showcases art of the 20th century 1900 to 1970. They were showing a special exhibit of the works of Pablo Suarez and his contemporaries. Suarez was an avant-garde painter and sculptor from the early part of the century. His work was bold and risque with many nudes and mixed media works. We toured the permanent exhibits, which ranged from cubist to modern.

    Back at the apartment, I went out to make dinner and show reservations for tomorrow and take some pics of the Evita sculptures.

    Walking the sidewalks is an interesting experience. Around the older parts of the city, they are mostly tile blocks, with some cobblestone sections. The tiles, however, are loose and broken in many places so they are uneven and hazardous. In front of some buildings, ceramic plaques have been set into the tiles. These plaques tell you that in this house lived so-and-so who "disappeared" on this date. It is striking how many of these there are (more than 30,000). Most of the intersections do not have signals so drivers treat them as games of chicken with traffic from the cross street and pedestrians have to fend for themselves - although pedestrians have right of way when in the crosswalks (if you're brave enough to claim it).
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  • Day299

    Buenos Aires

    March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    300 days of vacation-we need a break😋. We’ll be taking a pause from our travels for the month of March, staying in a few Airbnb’s here in the city. We’re excited to study some Spanish, get on a healthier eating and exercise routine, and enjoy exploring this very beautiful city.
    While our first night was rough with the power going out ~6pm and not returning until ~3pm the next day, we’re hopeful that was a fluke (though when you google power outages it seems corruption and poor management mean this isn’t all that uncommon).
    On our second full day we went to a rugby game. We felt like we had to go since the BA team were playing the Wellington team (John’s hometown). It was a fun experience (the NZ team, the Hurricanes, won!) and finding the tickets and the stadium was like a mini treasure hunt.
    Oh...and a funny thing happened on the way to the game...As we exited our Uber at the stadium, we heard someone asking in clumsy Spanish, with a Kiwi accent, 'excuse me, where is gate 2'. They were dressed in Hurricanes gear and lost, like us. We were eating some very delicious empanadas so obviously looked like locals. John cheekily waited a few seconds, took another bite of his empanada, turned around and said "don't worry about it, I don't speak much Spanish either - I'm from Wellington..." Turns out the folks were also Kiwis arrived from Auckland and Peru just for the game!
    Note that it’s unlikely we’ll do any updates until April, so don’t worry about us if you don’t see any activity (we’re talking to you, Danella 😀).
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  • Day47

    The Final Day in The Big Apple

    June 13, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    They say that all good things must eventually come to an end. This trip was most certainly a "good thing", but now the time has come for it to draw to a close. The weather in Buenos Aires is now cold and grey - a far cry from the hot and sunny days we experienced in Peru at the start of the adventure. We do not need any reminder that winter is now truly with us and that those sunny days are just a memory.

    This morning we took a final walk around this city, passing by the famous Casa Rosada on our way to the docklands region. The last time I walked this route the sun was shining brightly and the streets were thronged with people. This time the winter chill has kept the crowds out of sight. Those few that have braved the elements are bundled into winter gear and thick coats. The docklands which were previously alive with so many people were almost deserted. Maybe this is another message that the time is right for us to return home.

    Tomorrow we leave the hotel in the wee small hours of the morning to begin the long journey back home to Melbourne. Paul and I have been going over some of the highlights of the past 5 weeks. It truly has been full of so many sights and experiences that I think it has exceeded all of our expectations. It is probably unlikely that I will ever return to South America, but I am so glad that I had this opportunity to share this trip with so many wonderful companions.

    Now I am ready to go home and take a well earned break before the next adventure on the Compostela de Santiago.
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  • Day325

    Buenos Aires

    March 27, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Our four weeks in Buenos Aires flew by incredibly fast, but we were grateful for the chance to stay in one place for more than a few days, exercise more regularly and enjoy better food (Argentinean food is definitely not our favorite so we cooked-in >90% of the time after finding some decent vegetable and fish markets).
    We spent a lot of time planning the rest of our travels, getting our US taxes ready, and Christy finished her New Zealand residency application.
    John began refreshing his Japanese for our planned visit to Japan in the fall and Christy spent a few hours every day studying Spanish.
    After the weather finally cooled down in mid-March, we visited museums, churches and explored more of the city’s interesting neighborhoods. The architecture and old buildings here continued to wow us – definitely a world-class city. Sorry to disappoint, but no tango lessons.
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  • Day46

    A Visit to Evita Duarte

    June 12, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    I guess it had to happen sooner or later. Ever since we had arrived in Lima about 5 weeks ago, we had not experienced a single wet day. Not a single one. Not on any day of cycling. Not on any day of trekking to Machu Picchu. Not ever. In fact, on most days, we did not even see a cloud. It was uncanny.

    It was only a matter of time before that incredible run of good fortune had to come to a close. That day was today. Paul and I had previously decided to revisit the Recoleta Cemetery and the famous La Boca region of the city, however when I looked out of my window early in the morning I was not rewarded with the normal view of cloudless blue skies. In fact the sky had clouded over and I could even see that the streets six floors below me were a little shiny with recent rain.

    In some respects I was not disappointed. Rain is a normal part of life (especially for a cyclist) and it really would have been almost paranormal to complete the entire trip without so much as a drop from the heavens. I looked for my winter clothes and prepared to leave the hotel, but heard a noise from the streets near the Obelisk. It was a demonstration about to begin. Since I had a grandstand view of the proceedings, I decided to watch.

    In a few minutes a convoy of police vehicles had arrived and disgorged a line of riot police. Soon the police greatly outnumbered the small band of protesters. The protesters did their best to maintain the rage, but it soon ran out of steam and the small band dispersed quietly. The traffic in the streets quickly returned to normal.

    Since the Recoleta district was not too far from our hotel, Paul and I decided to walk. At that time the rain was not much more than a fine drizzle, although it was sufficient to dampen our trousers and shoes. Soon we were wandering the famous cemetery, which is the final resting place of hundreds of Buenos Aires richest and most powerful citizens. The most famous occupant is Evita Peron (Duarte) whose dark mausoleum is still visited by hundreds of people every day. Although she died way back in 1952, aged only 33, her legend has not diminished with the passage of time.

    Paul and I spent some time wandering the macabre streets of the dead, however the rain started falling more heavily and it was beginning to creep into my clothing. It was time to find our way back to our hotel to warm up and dry out.

    In the early afternoon the skies had lightened a little, the rain had stopped and the sun even peeped out a couple of times. We decided to visit La Boca district. This district is one of the more seedy parts of Buenos Aires, but is popular among tourists for its brightly coloured buildings, mostly constructed out of corrugated iron sheeting. Apparently these were originally constructed by the fishermen of the city out of cast off materials.

    The hotel concierge had warned us about walking to La Boca, as the surrounding streets are deemed to be unsafe for tourists. We decided to take a taxi instead. After a few minutes of erratic driving by the taxi man, we began to think that it would have been safer to take our chances with the local muggers. After whizzing through numerous red lights and narrowly missing a group of pedestrians on a pedestrian crossing, we somehow survived to reach La Boca.

    We found that the morning rain had somehow dampened down the spirits of the famous Caminita St. Most of the stalls were closed, the cafes were empty and the place looked even more down at heel than usual. Nevertheless we sat down to a lunch of empanadas and then spent an hour or so wandering the alleyways. Another hair raising taxi ride took us back to the centre of town.

    By that time the temperature had dropped and the wind chill made the place absolutely freezing. It really felt like a bleak winter's day in Melbourne. At least it would help prepare us for the weather we were likely to expect when we step out of the plane at Tullamarine in three day's time.
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  • Day37

    A Day of Leisure in BA

    June 3, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Anyone who knows me would appreciate that I am usually an early riser, in fact for most of the past four weeks I have getting up between 4.30 and 5.00 am. I think I lost the ability to sleep in once I passed the age of 21. You can therefore imagine my great surprise when I was disturbed from a complicated dream by a large bang outside my hotel room door. It took my eyes some time for my eyes to focus, and my brain a lot longer to emerge from its nocturnal confusion. I struggled to check my watch. Surely it cannot really be 9.10 am ??? Actually it was. Apparently all the excitement of those long legged tango dancers the previous evening had left me so exhausted that I had slept for over 9 hours. Absolutely unprecedented.

    I quickly showered, got dressed and went to the breakfast room. Only three of my fellow travellers were still there. Apparently the rest had already breakfasted and disappeared out int the city. A look out the front door showed that it was to be yet another perfect day. If this weather could hold for just one more day we would be able to take enormous pride in the fact that the entire trip had been spent without a drop of rain during the day time.

    I decided that I would spend the day doing what I often do in cities that I do not know well. I would just walk the streets and see where my feet took me. I was also hoping to get another memory card for my camera since my previous one had failed the day before.

    When I asked the concierge where I might be able to buy such a card, he rolled his eyes. "But today is Sunday", he said, as if that explained everything. I looked at him. "Everything is closed today", he added, in case I was a bit slow.

    When I left the hotel I soon saw what he meant. The streets were deserted. Almost no walkers and even fewer cars. It was quite eerie. All the shops were closed and covered by grates or shutters. At least it was easy to cross the road. I could have just walked down the centre of the road.

    I set off looking for any sign of life. My circuitous route took me finally back to the main avenue of the city, the mighty Avenida 9 de Julio. This enormous avenue is over 140 m across and was named after the date that Argentina obtained its independence. I had to admit that, in the brilliant late autumn sunshine, it really did look superb.

    Without having any other real aim in mind I gradually worked my way towards the waterside. The old harbour area has now been converted into a trendy waterfront entertainment precinct, filled with cafes and outdoor eateries. As the day wore on, gradually more people started to emerge and wander the waterfront paths. I found a nice place to have lunch while where I could watch the world pass me by just outside.

    This also gave me a great chance to think back over the past few weeks and evaluate how the trip had gone. At the end of every trip it is easy to reassess and think where things could have been improved. In this case I came to the decision that there was virtually nothing that I would wish to do differently. We had all shared an incredible experience together and everyone had cooperated brilliantly to make sure that it was a fantastic success. In a couple of days the group will all go their separate ways but I know that the time we spent together in this incredible continent will remain with us for ever.

    I decided to cross over the far side of the waterfront to take advantage of the warm sunshine on that side. I had not walked far before I stumbled upon a large concrete area which had been taken over by a large crowd of testosterone charged teenage boys on special trials bikes. Each lad took the centre stage for a few seconds to demonstrate his latest tricks. One by one they performed impressive jumps, mono wheeled riding and all sorts of quite clever tricks. A few teenage girls looked on, waiting to be impressed by the next performance. I had to admit that it really was interesting.

    As I made my way back towards the hotel I could not help but notice how much Buenos Aires really does remind me of Paris. Not only are many of the public buildings and apartment buildings built in the classic French style, but even the gardens and street lights look like they could have come straight out of a French planning guide.

    I detoured back around the Casa Rosada (the official office of the Argentine President) and more famously known as being the place where Evita addressed her adoring masses in the plaza. Soon I found myself in the middle of a huge street celebration. To my surprise it was celebration of all things Russian. Russian dancing, clothing, food, travel and music. The streets were full of Russians. I wasn't expecting that, but that is sort of what South America is all about. It is certainly never boring.

    I have a simple way of numerically classifying how much I like any particular city. I simply ask myself how long I would be prepared to live there if I had to. While some cities, like Juliaca in Peru would get a 1 day rating, I think I could give Lima and Cusco a one month score. On the other hand I really think that Buenos Aires would rightly earn a 1 year score. It is a lovely city with a lot going for it. The streets are generally clean, the parks are amazing, the shops modern and even the traffic flows freely. Because the city plan is largely based on a square grid , it is very easy to find your way around. As well as all that - you can even flush your toilet paper down the toilet. What else could you ask for ?

    Tomorrow we rise early for the final leg of our adventure - the journey across the Rio de La Plata to nearby Uruguay.
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  • Day36

    We Explore the Big Apple

    June 2, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Since most of our group will only have two days in the huge city of Buenos Aires I looked for some way to give them the very best introduction to some of the unique sights and experiences this place has to offer. I finally came up with an all day sequence of activities that seemed to encompass the best aspects the "Big Apple".

    At 9.00 am our group was gathered in the foyer waiting for our guide and bus to arrive. Fortunately we did not have to wait long before a young, blonde Argentinian girl walked in the door and introduced herself as Mercedes. "Just like the car", she added.

    We climbed into a very comfortable bus and headed out into the streets of the city. Even though it was a Saturday morning, the traffic was very light and the driver had no trouble making his way from place to place. Over the next 4 hours we were able to experience a wonderful succession of fascinating locations.

    The first of these places was the large manicured parkland, situated quite close to our hotel. Apparently it had been designed by a French architect and this certainly showed in the beautiful layout. Another nearby huge sculpture featured a huge stainless steel flower which apparently opens and closes its steel petals according to the amount of sunlight falling on it.

    The next stop was the somewhat macabre Recoleta Cemetery. The most famous "resident" of this place is of course Evita Peron, however it is well worth visiting for its curiosity value alone. Over the course of over a century, the wealthy and powerful citizens of Buenos Aires had huge mausoleums constructed so that they could be buried in the style to which they had become accustomed during their lifetimes. Many of these structures are massive and even feature multiple levels and basements. The sad thing is that the process of decay is unstoppable and all of these tombs are steadily deteriorating and returning to dust and ashes. Some still contains the fragile remains of flowers that were placed there following the funeral, so many years previously.

    Of course no visit to the Recoleta would be complete without visiting Evita's grave. Every day passionate admirers still adorn her mausoleum with fresh flowers and gifts. Considering she died over 60 years ago, this is quite incredible.

    Unfortunately Evita was not the only dead item in this location. While taking my photos, the memory card in my camera also decided to die. Perhaps it was some sort of curse for poking my head through some of the broken doors to old graves, or maybe it was just bad luck, but the card just failed for no reason and, along with its demise, went all the pictures I had taken that morning. Fortunately I had backed up all the previous images the night before, or else I really would have been quite upset.

    We then proceeded to visit the central plaza, featuring the Casa Rosada. This is the official office of the President of Argentina and was most famous as being the place that Evita addressed her adoring supporters from the balcony.

    Also in this location was the main cathedral of Buenos Aires. We entered just as a mass was taking place. Somehow we seemed to take a wrong turn and sort of got involved in the liturgy, much to the chagrin of the organist and cantor. I had to admit I was more than a little embarrassed, although I did enjoy the amazing acoustics of the place. It took all of my self control not to break out into my famous Benedictine chant of "My Father can play dominoes better than your father".....

    We slowly worked our way out of the city and finally ended up at the town of Tigre (tiger) situated some 35 km from the heart of the city. It was here that we climbed aboard a powerful cruiser and headed off through some of the myriad of channels that make up the river delta. The most amazing feature of this location is that around 4000 people have set up residence here. They have built a kind of hippy world of stilt houses and piers, all steadily sliding back into the mud of the delta. This was an entirely unexpected and fascinating insight int this alternative way of life.

    After returning to our hotel for a rest and a change of clothes it was time for our entertainment for the evening. We had booked a dinner and tango show at the famous El Quarendi. According to my research this is one of the best tango shows in the city. Since I know nothing about the tango, I had no idea what to expect.

    When we arrived at the sumptuous restaurant/theatre we were ushered to the very front table. That was a surprise since I thought we would be given the cheap seats. The waiters started serving various types of wine which was good for the drinkers in our group but not very exciting for me. Since I had idea about the food I decided to just accept the waiters suggestions for each course.

    By 10 pm the final guests had arrived and the music started to begin the tango show. Over the next hour we were entertained with some extreme high speed tango dancing and brilliant music. Since I was at the front, there were times when I could feel the swish from those long fishnet stockinged legs, just a few cm from my face. It was certainly enough to make a simple guy feel all hot and bothered. It was soon clear that the real secret of the tango is that it is really all about sexual excitement and stimulation. Even though it was well past my normal bedtime, I managed to stay awake for the whole show.

    When the show ended and my heartrate started to subside we were told that "our bus was waiting outside". We piled out into the cool night air and laughed about what we had just seen. It was a perfect beginning to our time in this captivating city.
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San Nicolas, Centro

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