Argentina
Córdoba

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    • Day 29

      Settling Down

      November 14, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      We arrived in Cordoba late Saturday afternoon with a four day reservation at an Airbnb apartment close to Parque Sarmiento in the heart of the city. Since our arrival, we’ve been scouting out neighborhoods and contacting leasing agents in an attempt to find the ideal location to spend the next two months. We wanted to find a place close to the park so we can run off a few calories in the morning, close to some good fruit markets so we can eat something other than alfajores, and near several good vegan/vegetariian restaurants and markets so I won’t have to spend too much time in the kitchen.

      Despite our rudimentary Spanish, we were able to book a few appointments to see potential residences (thank you Google Translate) and decide which area of town would be best suited to our needs.
      Although none of the units we visited were perfect, we ended up leasing the very first one we contacted and, on Wednesday we’ll be moving into our new digs only a stone’s throw from Parque Sarmiento and close to everything else we’ll need until we leave in January.

      It’ll be really nice to unpack our things once and for all after having been somewhat nomadic over the last thirty days
      .
      Now we can get on with REALLY exploring this beautiful city and all it has to offer.
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    • Day 54

      Fernet y Coca

      December 9, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

      Cordoba is known as the Fernet y Coca capital of Argentina. Sandwich boards outside bars everywhere in this country offer happy hour specials on this cocktail which initially gained popularity amongst College students in this university town.

      Fernet is a potent 40% ABV Italian digestif brewed with twenty seven herbs roots and spices. Known in Italy as an Amaro, it is a bitter eau-de-vie in the tradition of Grappa, usually consumed as a digestif after dinner. In Argentina, however, it is served over ice and mixed with Coke.

      As we approach our second full month in Argentina, I finally broke down and ordered my first Fernet y Coca during this afternoon's football game.

      I had read that Fernet is an acquired taste, but nothing could have prepared me for the overwhelming medicinal characteristics of this brew. I had a sip of the dark brown liquer before adding the Coca-Cola to it and can only describe it as slightly more palatable than Buckley's cough syrup. But surprisingly, when I mixed in the Coke, it didn't get much better. The sugar in the Coke brought the taste experience closer to an intense, liquid Hall's eucalyptus cough drop.

      In the end, I'm not sure I care to acquire a taste for this particular Argentine delight. Their fine Malbec, Cervezas and sparklers will be all that will whet my whistle from now on.
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    • Day 63

      ¡Vamos, Vamos Argentina!

      December 18, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      The year was 1986. Canada made their first appearance at the World Cup. Diego Maradona led Argentina to a 3-2 victory over West Germany in the final. Leo Messi wasn’t even born yet!

      Prior to this year, Argentina had been to the World Cup final five times, winning in 1978 and 1986 and finishing second in 1930, 1990 and 2014.

      Given the rarity of Argentina’s World Cup appearances, how fortunate are we to be here to watch them win only their third World Cup trophy? I mean, our original plans had us in Argentina for just the first ten days of our three-month winter getaway. But, as it turned out, Chile, our planned destination, turned out to be too unattractive for our tastes causing us to change our plans and return to Argentina. On top of that, this is the first time the World Cup has been held in the Northern Hemisphere’s winter because Qatar is too hot in the summer. In other words, under normal circumstances, the tournament would have been played six months before we arrived here.

      All the stars aligned for us to be a part of this spectacle.

      After being handed a 2-1 upset loss in their first game against Saudi Arabia, things were not looking good for the Blue and White. However, Argentina came out on top in all their remaining matches, including the nail-biting semi-final and final, to bring home the cup.

      Brenda and I watched all but the first of Argentina’s games at the Mayo Café located just around the corner from our apartment. The locals were very welcoming to us foreigners and, at $800 ARS (about $3.35 CDN) for two pints of ice-cold craft beer, the price was right. At the end of each game, we made it a point to reserve our table for the next match.

      I will never forget the roller-coaster of emotion the final match produced. Leading 2-0 with ten minutes remaining to play, it looked like Argentina would coast to a victory. But then France was awarded a penalty kick and scored, narrowing the margin to 2-1. No problem, La Scaloneta is playing well, the lead isn’t in danger. But then Kylian Mbappe scored again one minute later to even the score! The crowd grew quiet. The game went into overtime and Leo Messi scored at the 109’ mark making it 3-2 Argentina and the entire city shook with the cheers. But at the 118’ mark, with only two minutes remaining in OT, France was awarded another penalty kick and Mbappe got the hat trick. The 1.5 million voices in Cordoba let out a collective groan knowing we were heading to the dreaded shoot out.

      Mbappe opened the shoot out with a goal that was immediately nullified by Messi’s score. The next two French shooters were stymied, the third one scored while all the next three Argentine sharpshooters hit their marks. On the fourth strike, the café, and the city, erupted in a cry of joy with hugs and high-fives all around.

      As I write this, it is three hours since the match finished and the noise outside our apartment is getting louder and louder. Singing, car horns honking, hoarse voices yelling, and the occasional firework explosion make up the cacophony that is Cordoba tonight. I suspect this will go on until at least 5:00 tomorrow morning when the bars close.

      Yep, it will definitely be an ear plug night tonight. But that’s OK. I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.
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    • Day 65

      Graduation

      December 20, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      As soon as we arrived in Cordoba, we started seeing pick-up trucks driving around the city and honking their horns with their beds filled with young men or women in full party mode. Because one of the passengers is always dressed in a ridiculous manner and covered in eggs and flour, we thought this is how Argentines celebrate a stag. But there are so many of these parties, we figured there's no way so many people are getting married.

      And we were right. Cordoba is a university town and the tradition is that when a student graduates, their friends dress them up, egg them and parade them around town with a sign stating their profession to be: "Yo soy abogado", "Yo soy contadora", etc...

      Fun!
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    • Day 70

      Christmas In Argentina

      December 25, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Being a predominantly Catholic country, you would think that Christmas traditions in Argentina would resemble those in North America, but you couldn't be more mistaken.

      Christmas is a very laid-back affair here. The large shopping malls have Santa driven sleighs hanging from the rafters and the landmark Faro Bicentenario has been transformed into a 102 meter tall Christmas tree, but aside from that, it's business as usual.

      To even find a Christmas card for our annual exchange required some effort and input from the local Facebook expat group.

      There is none of the manic crowds scrambling store to store on December 23rd trying to find that last minute gift. The grocery and liquor stores have no queues of people with shopping carts brimming with food and booze impatiently waiting at the doors and cash registers. Boxing Day is not celebrated here and there is no "day-off-in-lieu-of" here. Staff will all be back on the job Monday morning. In fact, many businesses remain open on Christmas day.

      Christmas is primarily celebrated on the eve with families gathering for a late evening meal as they await the stroke of midnight to exchange gifts and cards that are usually handmade .

      There is no roast turkey at the Christmas meal here. Summer has just officially started and temperatures reach the high 30's in late December so running the oven for six hours to roast a turkey is out of the question. The traditional Christmas meal consists of Vitel Tone, thinly sliced veal topped with a rich sauce of tuna, mayonnaise, cream, egg yolks, white wine, anchovies and capers. It is chilled to let the flavor set and served covered in the creamy sauce. Also prevalent is Asado, either barbecued beef or pork served with a vinagery salsa of tomato, onion and red pepper.

      We managed to find vegetarian versions of the latter two dishes at Rincon Verde restaurant that we accompanied with oven roasted potatoes and vegetables, a fine Malbec and a sparkling wine from Chandon.

      Yeah, I'd do Christmas in Argentina again.
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    • Day 90

      Is there a phone in your shoe?...

      January 14, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      Argentinian women love their platform shoes. Everywhere I go I see platform shoes of all kinds, platform dress shoes, platform sandals, and platform runners to make Hokas look like barefoot running shoes.

      I tried to snap some photos wheneber we were walking around town and it became a bit of a game. Roch would use a code word if he wanted to alert me to pull my phone camera out: "Psst, Agent 99". However, since shoes are usually a moving target, some of the best ones unfortunately got away. "Missed it by that much."
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    • Day 92

      Don't Cry For Me Argentina

      January 16, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

      Today is our last full day in Argentina and both Brenda and I are feeling a little sad about having to say "hasta la vista".

      When we first arrived in Mendoza in October, we had no expectations other than the discovery of some kick-ass Malbecs. But by the time we moved off to Santiago ten days later, Argentina was already finding a place in our hearts. The people were all welcoming, friendly and helpful, we found a few excellent vegan friendly restaurants and we discovered not only some fine Malbecs, but also some surprisingly good (and very inexpensive) sparkling wines.

      When it became clear to us that Santiago was no longer a city where we wanted to spend an extended period of time, we were both quite content to return to Mendoza. And as great as it was, people we met, including Mendocinos, began telling us we should visit Cordoba because it is so beautiful and Cordobans are said to be the most fun-loving Argentinians. We couldn't resist and so, after another ten-day stay, we left Mendoza and found an apartment in Cordoba where we stayed for the majority of the rest of our time in South America. The weather was a little warm at times with temperatures reaching 42°C on a couple of occasions, but overall, it was preferable to what was going on back in Canada.

      As well as finding a temporary home close to Parc Sarmiento, where we would go for daily exercise sessions, Brenda found a cello teacher and a cello to rent. We also found a Spanish teacher who helped us tune our ears to the local dialect. I can't express how nice and kind all these people were. Brenda practiced her cello daily and I could hear her playing improving dramatically day to day. We only had four lessons with our Spanish teacher, but she definitely helped us navigate the local lingo.

      Of course, the fact that the Argentine peso is in a constant state of devaluation works very much in our favour and renders the cost of local goods and services extremely affordable. Brenda cracked one of her crowns and had to find a dentist to have it repaired. While she was there, she had a second crown replaced, a dental guard made and her teeth whitened for less than the cost of one crown in Vancouver. She couldn't speak highly enough of the care she received at that office.

      Because we felt so safe in Mendoza and Cordoba, Brenda invited me to Buenos Aires to ring in the New Year and celebrate my birthday. The week we spent there positively flew by and not once did we feel unsafe or ill at ease. We're already talking about a return trip to Argentina where we'll make Buenos Aires our base and make side trips to other areas from there.

      And, to top it all off, we were so fortunate to have been able to share in the entire country's joy as their football team brought home the World Cup for the first time since 1986.

      I don't expect Argentina to cry for me, but I may shed a little tear when I step on the plane tomorrow afternoon.
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    • Day 29

      Arriving in Cordoba+2x free walking tour

      January 31, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌩️ 32 °C

      After 12h of bus transfer I arrived in the hostel & I have seen the Swedish guy again, which I met in Mendoza. Unfortunately he had an accident with his feet, so he cannot do anything😂

      I made two free walking tours (11 & 17 o clock), which included the Antike Cordoba & the modern. Cordoba is the second biggest city in Argentinia (2 million) and is known as a student city (200.000). I really enjoyed the tours. I tried alfajores (sweets) and it was really good. Furthermore in cordoba is the second narrowest building in the word😂💪🏽(3 m)

      Although I cooked for my dinner, Stefan asked if I want to join a Bachata class with him and Aziz. Wow, I really enjoyed learning dance moves. Because I love dancing, It could also be a nice hobby at home. We ate after that something at the hostel and we still tried some moves out! Haha so Good.
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    • Day 30

      Chilling in cordoba

      February 1, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      The last month of travelling was very nice and also exhausting. So I decided to have a really chilled day, because there is not much so see in an around Cordoba. Also I felt a Little Bit k.o.

      I planned a route and what to do exactly in Salta + Jujuj. I will go on a Roadtrip on Sunday with Lena, Charlotte & Jana.

      I also checked, how much money I have been spending the first month: under budget 😎💪🏽

      Because of the situation in Peru it is still a big topic. The flights over Peru are so expensive and every alternative as well…
      One flight von La Platz to Quito: 400€ with luggage 😬

      Currently I am thinking about to book a flight from Bolivia to Ecuador, then Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica and ending in Mexiko or/and 6 days in NYC. We will see.

      I went to the barber with Stefan after waiting to Aziz and I was not satisfied 😬 still to long haha, but the next customer was already there.. I also bought a new short jeans and a new belt.

      In the evening I chilled at the hostel with aziz and Stefan, because I didn’t want to go out after being around every evening. I slept from 11 p.m to 9 a.m😍
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    • Day 31

      Bored in Cordoba😂

      February 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      After breakfast I had a phone call with Leon & I went with Aziz to the train station to book a bus ticket for him. He will drive with the same bus as me now💪🏽

      Although they said in the tourist offices that the Cordoba Museum of Memory (Mostly about the dictatorship) it is open today, it is still closed. So I went with Aziz to a Religious Museum closby the tourist office. It was ok😂

      Because Aziz wanted to chill in the hostel I decided to eat another nice bife de chorizo, and is was nice!

      I went to the biggest park in cordoba, listened so some podcast and music and had a phone call with Joschko.

      In the evening I cooked with Aziz a huuuge portion, but we ate it😂

      With a few hostel persons I went to a techno club & I am really looking forward to go on the roadtrip on Sunday💪🏽

      To be honest, although cordoba the second biggest city and a student town, it is not much to do around here.

      Because my goal was not partying and drinking here (what I think is the main thing to do as a Traveller in cordoba), I expected more of the city.🤷🏽‍♂️
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Córdoba, Cordoba, كوردوبا, Горад Кордава, Кордоба, Кордова, Κόρδοβα, Kordobo, کوردوبا، آرژانتین, קורדובה, Կորդովա, COR, コルドバ, კორდოვა, 코르도바, Corduba, Còrdoba, Kordoba, Kordova, Кордова хот, कोर्दोबा, Córdoba i Argentina, Vila de Córdoba, Кордовæ, کاردوبا, Córdova, Kuorduoba, กอร์โดบา, قرطبہ، ارجنٹائن, Kordov, קארדאבע, 科尔多瓦

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