Das letzte Zwischenziel ist erreicht. Über Val Gardena und einige Pässe ging es von Südtirol nach Tirol an den Achensee. Temperaturunterschiede von 20 Grad inbegriffen.
Today I went up to the top of Zerwolferkopf in the Karwendal cable car. It is about another 900m up. The is the spot the paragliders leave from. There is a good view of the lake and surrounds, as well across to the Rofan mountains were I was yesterday. The Barendbaldalm is a 30 minute walk from the cable car. Off I went with my trusty walking poles. I was mostly going downhill as the alm is 50m below the level of the cable car. The last 150m or so was rather steep. I appreciated my walking poles.
I had a rest and a drink at the alm hutte but to be honest I didn't enjoy it that much as I was dreading the walk back up that steep hill. The was a path down towards Maurach that looked a gentle slope and was nice and wide but it had bee marked difficult so I turned back to the easy route.
Getting up that hill was easier than expected and having the poles definitely made things easier.
I was up on the mountain much longer than I exoected. I had taken some morning tea with me and ate it at 1pm before boarding the cable car for the journey back.
Back to the hotel for a cold shower, change of clothes and a quick 10 minute lie down before heading to the lake for the boat to Seespitz.
From there I caught the Achenseebahn down to Jenbach.
Apart from the truck ride yesterday all these excursions are covered by my Achensee guest card. We get a basic card from the hotel which gives free bus rides and (I think discounts on the various activities) but by buying the sticker to go on the card for €63 the cable cars, boats, achenseebahn, oil museum have not cost me any extra.
Anyway, the train is a steam train. Coal smoke stinks. The train was interesting for the first five minutes and then I got to thinking I'm glad train travel has improved as it was very jerky.
We were in Jenbach for 45 minutes before coming back up. The engine pushed us up the steep part to Eben then moved to the front and pulled as the rest of the way.
The scenery was interesting, I got to see into people's backyards along some of the way. Other parts were pure forrest.
We got back to Seespitz in time to catch tne boat back to Pertisau.
Dinner was a bit of a let down tonight. Both the service and food had been great up until now. I have a new waiter, he doesn't speak a lot of english (but more than my german).
We get the menu at breakfast and have to choose our main meal from a choice of three then.
Today my menu was in german. I translated the three mains as: rust roast; calf goulash; and potato and zucchini bake. I opted for the veggie bake.
The service wasn't great.
There won't be a CS version tonight. I am really tired. When I planned to do this blog I thought I'd be sitting in my room all by myself and it would give me something to do.
Most nights I've written it in the lounge/bar of where I been staying, if I write it in my room it has been in bed because I am so tired (like tonight!)
Looking down on Pertisau
The dreaded hill, it was a lot worse that it looks!
Looking towards the Rofan mountains, where I was yesterday
Drawing if Hotel Post circa 1930Read more
I'm sitting in the lounge at the Hotel Post in Pertisau as I write this. A lot has gone into getting here and its all my Mum's fault. She bought me my first Chalet School book but I digress.
I started the day at the Museum of Tirolean Regional Heritage. I had thought it was the Tirolean Folk Museum but it was still very interesting. It had a lot of examples of objects and crafts used throughout the years. It was nice to see objects I'd read about and visualised completely wrong, such as stoves that were in the corner of a room and used for heating it. Nothing like what I imagined.
Next door is the Hofkirche (Court Church). The museum is in a former Abbey. It is a beautiful church dominated by the Cenotaph of Maximilian I.
After returning to the hotel to check out I made my way to the train station. The next part of the journey had been stressing me a bit as it wasn't prebooked like all my other travel plans. It was simple though, I went to the OBB (Austrian railways) office and told the clerk where I wanted to go and €11 later I had my ticket. I took a Euro City train to Jenbach, bus to Maurach, then another bus to Pertisau.
My mobile hasn't worked in Austria, I assume Telstra doesn't provide service here so I have been relying on wifi. Innsbruck has great free wifi throughout the city, Pertisau not so much. Apart from knowing the hotel was by the lake I didn't really know where it was. Google maps works enough without internet to show me where I am but didn't provide detail. Eventually I wandered around a bit, found the Information service (it was closed but had maps outside) and realised if I'd stayed on for one more stop the bus would have stopped right outside the hotel door.
The Hotel Post is lovely. It dates back well over 100 years. I am in a new part of the building and the room is spacious with a king single bed, small dressing table, arm chair and coffee table. I have a balcony which has both lake and meadow views. This is their basic single room!
After unpacking I went for a walk.
I found the information service again and bought my Achensee card which will give me free access to the boats, achenseebahn and cablecars. I also saw the EBD plaque.
A sidenote: The Chalet School series is a series of books written by Elinor Brent-Dyer (EBD) from the 1920s with the last being published in 1970. The first 12 are set in Pertisau. There are many fans worldwide and I am not the first to come here in the footsteps of the Chalet School (and I won't be the last).
From my balcony I can see the Alpenhof, a deserted hotel thought to be the fictional site of the school. My mum bought me four books in the series (there are over 50) when I was about 10 and had given her $10 of birthday money to buy me second hand books in Getaldton. It was the start of a lifelong interest.
I missed lunch so stopped at a cafe for something to eat. The menu had no english translation and the waiter didn't speak english. iTranslate was no help either. I ordered Germknodel which from the allergy ingormation I deduced it was made of flour, milk, eggs and nuts.
I still have no idea what it was. My best guess is a warm dumpling with apple and jam inside sitting in custard. I'll include a photo and someone maybe able to identify it.
It was a mistake though. I've booked half-board at the hotel which means breakfast and dinner (dinner is €10!).
For dinner I had:
A plate of self serve salad, they even had beetroot!
Soup: bouillion with profiteroles. I ordered it because I wanted to see the profiteroles (thinking it was a mis-translation) but it had baby profiteroles floating on the top.
Tirolean ravioli (just one)
Beef stroganoff, for those ex Dellahale-ites who think I was brave, it was delicious and nothing like what we endured.
Dessert was an egg liquor cream which as far as I could tell was a mousse like cream on the bottem and a berry liquor reduction on top.
I declined cheese to finish.
After hot weather for my entire trip It has turned cold and wet. Pertisau is about 900m above sea level, tomorrow will also be wet but Wednesday should fine up.
Bread cutter at the museum
Cenotaph at the Hofkirche
Plaque commemerating Elinor Brent Dyer who used Pertisau as the setting for her books.
Boat (I want to call it a steamer) that goes to the various hamlets around the lake.Read more
Another wet and cold day today. I timed my walk to the boat nicely, as it was just getting in. I had wanted to go in the other direction (towards Gaisalm) but that was a 45 minute wait so I got on the one heading to Bachau.
Bachau is on the other side of the lake, we then headed back to the west side to Seespitz which is where the Achenseebahn comes in. I had planned to take the trip to Jenbach but it was too wet and cold. We headed back to Pertisau, then up to Gaisalm. I saw the dripping rock which is where one on the streams(?) coming down the mountain passes over the path. The path from the dripping rock to Gaisalm and then beyond to Scholastica does not look an easy stroll.
From Gaisalm we went to across to Achenseehof then to Scholastica at the foot of the lake, back to Gaisalm and then Pertisau.
By then I was thoroughly cold and decided to spend the afternoon relaxing and reading.
The hotel really is lovely. I have my own set table with my name (Frau Creasy) on a little sign on it. I again skipped lunch but this time didn't have afternoon tea so I was nice and hungry (mind you breakfast was hearty with bircher muesli and egg and toast plus fruit and cheese so it's not like I'm starving).
Starting with salad is nice, at least I know I am getting a large bowl of veggies. As I helped myself to pickled cauliflower one woman got really excited, called her husband back to the beginning of the table were it was and was visibly disapointed when she realised it was cauliflower. I have no idea what she thought it was!
The meals have been dainty. My only reference point for a hotel that supplies dinner as well as breakfast is Fawlty Towers. This is nothing like that but it's what I think of everytime I sit at the table and see my little lable.
Tonight I had melon and proscuitto followed by cream of salsify soup (so nice), duck with potato dumpling and cabbage and then what was described as a cream cheese nougat dumpling with stewed apricots. It had chocolate inside and was delicious. The main is a reasonable size but the other courses are nice and small.
The dining staff have variable amounts of English. Some a good amount, others none. I rely on nodding and pointing to the menu a lot. I have also added "Ja gut" (yes good) to my vocabulary in response to what I assume is an enquiry as to whether I enjoyed the meal.
Other than that I find myself watching other people, on the boat we were given a paper ticket, the instructions on which I translated as "keep the ticket until the service goal of the sailor."
itranslate isn't infallible. So I just watched others and saw them return the tickets so I did so as well.
Did I mention it was cold?
View from the lake
Looking from Scholastica at the foot of the lakeRead more
This is the second half of my Chalet journal, it covers Thursday and Friday.
Thursday, it was one of the Chalet Girls' favourite walks, so easy even the young girls can manage easily - to Barebald alm.
It was a warm day so Matey decreed no blazers were necessary.
Hilda, Freda* and I set off to the base of the alp. Going up was easy, Joey was right! Although she may not have been referring to the Karwendal cable car.
At the top I paused to watch men jumping off the mountain - paragliders. I took some snaps with my kodak.
Consulting the map I determined the route, noting that the routes back down to Pertisau seemed to be marked difficult.
Hilda, Freda and I set off at a slow trot, covering the ground reasonably easily.
Then we came in sight of the alm! I quaked at the path leading down. Hilda and Freda quietly encouraged me all the way down.
We eventually made it and stopped to appreciate the view. I could see across to the Sonnalpe.
We weren't due for elevenses until we were back at the cable car so we begged a drink from the alm hutte.
Their "alm dudler" (apple juice) went down a treat. After a short rest we went along the nice wide path that leads back to Pertisau. I was tempted to try it but my guides reminded me that many a Chalet girl has gotten into trouble choosing the easy looking path (a metaphor for life?) so I reluctantly turned back to that uphill slope. With H and F's help and ecouragement I made it up the slope with far less difficulty than I had expected.
We made our way back to the cable car and I discovered that my watch had stopped (ie I hadn't checked the time on my phone) and it was 1pm! A stop for late elevenses was in order. Today I had it with me, a pastry left over from breakfast. H and F were maintaining there stick thin figures and went without.
Back down the mountain we went.
The aftetnoon's expedition was the steam railway - the Achenseebahn. I had come up to the lake via the coach road and so had not experienced this important part of Chalet life.
H and F, having done the trip many times remained behind.
First I caught the boat to Seespitz.
A thought occurred to me - did the CS girls have season tickets for the boats? Maybe it was included in the fees? They seem to use them a lot, and not always planned.
Anyway... The train was waiting at Seespitz. I hope the carriages have changed since the 1930s, or it had a luggage compartment as I can't imagine fitting all the luggage in.
The ride down was quite jerky in places.
The coal smoke smelt terrible. It was brown so soft coal?
The view was good though, through towns, forrest and open country. The next trip back to Seespitz was the last trip up so I had some plum kuchen at the railway station then we made our way back up. If I thought the trip down was jerky, the trip up was more so.
The boat was waiting as we reached Seespitz so it was an easy transfer back to the hotel.
Yesterday it was time to tackle the Dripping rock and Gsisalm, an easy stroll apparently. H and F agreed to accompany me and I'm glad they did. It started out as any easy stroll but soon the wide flat path gave way to a narrower path of loose rock or dirt. It went up and down a fair bit. I had agreed with H and F I would turn back if it was too difficult.
Turning the corner to see the dripping rock was amazing. I'd seen one of the iconic sights in the CS books. The narrow path doesn't encourage stopping for long although one rambler, on observing me stopping to take pictures stopped as well.
Now, to go forward or turn around? I'm no spineless jellyfish (not suggesting anyone who did turn around is 😀) so I kept ongoing. The track got tougher but H and F kept encouraging me to lean on them, (Freda may well have a dislocated shoulder after some of those big step downs).
But we made it! We made it to Gaisalm which has a gasthaus and nothing else.
Just enough time to purchase a drink and then we caught the boat back.
Time for lunch. I had not yet called in to see Herr Braun at the Kron Prinz Karl (Furstenhaus) so this was a great opportunity.
Herr Braun has done well for himself. The hotel has been extended and is beautiful inside.
I decided to eat in the beer garden. H and F were horrified and lay on the ground in protest.
I didn't have the energy to translate the menu so chose frankfurters and pommes fries assuming I would get a nice sausage, no I got exactly what it said, hot dogs (without the red skin) and chips. Never the less it was fine.
I had a dilemma. I heard a rumour at breakfast of a night cruise on the lake. But would it be suitable entertainment for a gracious lady such as myself. I was tempted to sneak out but
a) that is not honourable
b) I did't want Joey to have to rescue me and
c) I didn't want bronchitis or pneumonia
Fortunately Herr Braun advised that the entertainment would be suitable and that the rocks by Gaisalm would be lit up and it was a spectacular sight.
Back to the hotel then for a rest. There was a strudel buffet in the restaurant but not having yet learnt the german strudel words, plus I'd need an early abendssen I gave it a miss.
H and F declined to accompany me on the night cruise (sticks in the mud they are!)
The cruise was lovely. I must work on my german as I couldn't understand what the musicians were saying.
The views were lovely. I took my blazer so was able to spend a good portion of the cruise on the deck.
Well worth it.
Time to bid the Tiernsee goodbye.
*Hilda and Freda were my walking poles.
Another view of the Dripping Rock
There are many of these shrines(?) all throughout the Achensee. This one is at the Barenbald alm.
Look at the shadow of the steamtrain.
Pertisau by night
Rocks by GaisalmRead more
I had a fantastic time in Pertisau. The Hotel Post was a great hotel. I'm in Innsbruck for the night as my train is at 7:40 in the morning.
Last night I did the night cruise on the lake. Unfotunately I couldn't understand the musicians but they were apparently very funny. I know they made a joke about the Dutch (a high percentage of tourists of Pertisu are Dutch apparently). The music was good though, kind of a cross between folk and country.
This morning I had a wander around Pertisau before heading down to Jenbach and then caught the train to Innsbruck. I did some washing before heading back to the same hotel I stayed in last weekend. I obviously had a room upgrade last time. My room tonight is fine but a king single instead of a double bed, no bath, a smaller chair.
After checking in I went up to the Tirol Panorama, a museum which contains a huge painting that you stand in the middle of a round room and the painting is a continous scene all around the walls. The scene is of the battle between the Baravians and Tirolese in 1809.
I then went to the ski jump next to the panorama, simply because I was asked I wanted to go when I bought my museum ticket.
It was really interesting and very high up. I'm not normally too bothered by heights but whatever the pavers at the very top are laid on, they wobble when you walk on them. Most disconcerting!
A thunderstorm came in late this afternoon, lots of thunder and lightning.
Dinner ended up being at a very nice Italian restaurant. It was raining heavily and the restaurant was nice and close to the hotel. I do miss the half board arrangement I had at the Hotel Post!
I had an octopus salad followed by a mushroom and chanterelle pasta, yum!
Hot air balloon over Achensee
Looking down the ski jump
Looking up at the ski jump
View of the Inn valley from the top of the ski jumpRead more
Mit Zwischenstopp bei einer Freundin am Ammersee, ging es heute in Paul mit Lila und Ella im Gepäck in 8 Stunden Stau-Marathon Richtung Achensee.
Was für wundervolle Menschen einem doch manchmal begegnen: hier auf der Brücke mit dem mega Ausblick. Lässig ans Geländer gelehnt, Sonnenbrille auf, Grinsen im Gesicht, steht ein älterer Herr in Biker Outfit, davor - richtig schön oldschool - seine Maschine... Ich, typisch Touri, springe raus, mache von allen Seiten Fotos, genieße kurz das Panorama und will dann zurück in Paul springen; schließlich soll das Zelt vor der Dunkelheit stehen und ich bin (mal wieder 🙈) spät dran. Da winkt er mich ganz lässig wieder aus dem 🚌: "Mai, komm a ma rüber." Ich, mich tierisch freuend, hüpfe wieder raus und werfe mich auf Anweisung dieses lässigen Bike-Opis auf der Brüstung in Position. Ganz unabhängig von den schönen Erinnerungsfotos, hat mich dieser junggebliebene, tiefenentspannte Mensch wirklich beeindruckt. Er wirkte auf seine ganz eigene Art und Weise zutiefst beseelt. Nach einem ganz kurzen Plausch, ging's dann weiter, während der Herr wieder lächelnd Posten bezog und sich in der Abendsonne eine Zigarre ansteckte. 🌅Read more
With a little help from my neighbors, stand das Vorzelt in Nullkommanix. 🚌⛺️ Einfach unglaublich wie hilfsbereit, nett und offen die Menschen hierzulande sind. Und wie sehr vermisse ich das in und um Ffm...
Nur der liebe Zeltdealer meines Vertrauens hat mich - mal wieder - falsch beraten; wozu fährt man da eigentlich vorher extra hin? Nun klafft ne Lücke zwischen Paul und Zelt. Wollen wir hoffen, dass der angekündigte Regen ☔️ ausbleibt.. Heute war schließlich auch strahlender ☀️ und heute morgen sah der Bericht noch ganz anders aus; man darf also hoffen. Ohnehin gibt es ja sowieso kein schlechtes Wetter. 😜
Nachdem alles verstaut war, ging es natürlich gleich noch eine kurze Runde an (für Lila in) den See. 💦 Ich lielieliebe den Achensee!! Ein bisschen ist es, als wären wir nie weg gewesen... nur ohne Schnee diesmal. 😉Read more
Nach Rekord-Ausschlafen (9:37; passiert sonst nie - war wohl dementsprechend nötig..), gab es erstmal Frühstück mit Aussicht. 🌅☀️😊🏞 Es ist einfach traumhaft hier. Die nette Betreiberin hat uns auch gleich wieder erkannt und selbst mein WLAN war direkt automatisch eingelogged 😅 "Wilkommen Dahoam." 🤣
Ella hat jetzt übrigens auch ihren ganz persönlichen Bodyguard; Guard-Dog sozusagen 🚲🐕
You might also know this place by the following names: