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Wheatbelt and Goldfields

May - June 2022
Granite rock stars around Merredin
Kalgoorlie
Sculptures at Lake Ballard
Historic Goldfields
Coastal route back to Perth via Dongara Read more
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  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 18

    Blown back to Perth

    June 7, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We woke up to the wind howling, the tent shaking, and us warming ourselves with hot oat porridge and coffee.
    Once warm we decided to do the Lesueur Loop Trail. The walk was lovely, different wild flowers to look at, and beautiful views of the ranges.
    We were assaulted on the hike. Yes, assaulted I declare, by the wild wind. It had teeth that bit through our jackets, it whipped us, it repeatedly tried to push us over with its strong gusts, all the while relentlessly beating down upon us. Assaulted all through the hike we were.
    We then went to Jurien Bay for lunch. At lunch when we checked the weather, and that assaulting wind was picking up strength. So on the spur of the moment, we decided to drive back to decamp and come home. We had enough of being assaulted by the wind.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 17

    Karda Campsite

    June 6, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After a hearty 11es at Seaspray Cafe, we took a scenic drive from Dongara through, Leeman, Greenhead and via a scenic drive in Lesueur National Park to Karda Campsite.
    After our meal at Seaspray I was on the lookout for a cafe for my second coffee.

    At Leeman, we found another campsite on the beach called Milligan Island that will be a good spot for next time. But no coffee. Found a lookout that helped guide ships with the help of "one tree". Unfortunately, the tree is no longer there. No idea how the ships are guided now!!!

    At Greenhead, whilst doing a cooks tour of the town, I spotted a "cafe open" sign. It turns out to be a really good cafe, called Greenhead Gallery Cafe, where Ruby had a custardcopita, and I had very good coffee.
    Must remember this cafe for the future but only open Friday Saturday and Sundays. Only open today because of the long weekend.

    We are now set up in Karda Campsite. It should be a very starry starry night.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 16

    Dongara Irwin Inlet Trail

    June 5, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Accessed the beach from our accommodation via 1km of 4WD track, then along the beach to Seaspray Cafe for elevenses/lunch.

    The Greek lady who owns the cafe lived in Singapore where she ran a fish and chip restaurant called Red Emperor. She also had another eatery in Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok, but lost it all, all $1.6 million when 9/11 happened, and many expats were recalled from SE Asia. We spoke Singlish, accent and all lah. She remarked about the mess kids are allowed to leave behind, and we decided that she should have a Messy Kids Surcharge. There was a single young lady in the table next to us who joined in this conversation, and being a teacher, she spoke with informed authority about "kids today". Greek lady then sat down and told us about her traumatic experience of being kidnapped in Singapore, and held in her apartment for 2 weeks until her big hunky Kiwi boyfriend came to her rescue and almost threw the kidnapper off the 16th storey balcony 😱. She screamed for boyfriend to not throw kidnapper, neighbours all gathered, and police attended. Unfortunately, boyfriend and her did not work out as she went loopy (her words) after the ordeal. We also heard of her Singapore friend who married a Texan oil tycoon who died from a massive stroke 2 days after she visited them. A most interesting lady, to say the least.

    We needed the long walk along the peaceful Irwin Inlet back to the accommodation to get over that experience and stories at the cafe.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 15

    Dongara

    June 4, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We went to Poppies Cafe for breakfast. A sweet little cafe in an old church, set amongst huge Moreton Bay Fig trees. We then bought some prawns, scallops and Red Emperor fish wings from Seaz Seafood Supplies down at the marina. It was prawns, avocado and crusty bread for lunch back at the accommodation. The rest of the day was spent resting after doing 2 loads of laundry.
    This is how wonderful it is to be in accommodation, as written in a WhatsApp message,
    "You know what!! You know what!!
    Talking about cold, 🫣
    We can just press a button, put the heater on, and heat. Heat in a few minutes.
    AND talking about 🏕️ camping,
    Here, we can drink lots in the evening, hot cups of tea, and then not scared.
    Not scared that we'd need to go to toilet at night.
    Just get up, and go.
    Got lights
    Not cold
    No need to unzip and venture into the cold and scary unknown dark.
    No need to dig holes!"
    When the wind blows, no flappy fabric sounds. The walls stay perfectly still. We realised that we have been pitching our tent to loosely, and that pulling it tighter and more taut before we peg it reduces flap. Much like our bodies, really.
    Running hot water. In fact, just running water!
    And no flies, ants, strange bugs and things that go bump in the night.
    All this rest is good, all the conveniences and luxuries much appreciated.
    But, where is all the fun?
    Happy to leave this 5 star accommodation and get back to our million stars camping tomorrow at Leseur National Park.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 14

    Dongara via Mingenew

    June 3, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Camping at Miners Campsite at Coalseam National Park was very comfortable. The wind had died down and our tent was positioned with great views of the range. Our warmest camp night last night at camp number 7.
    Remembering the yummy pies in Mingenew, we headed for this little town on the way to Dongara. The pies were nice but after Everett butchers in Kalgoorlie and Food Van pies in Coolgardie, the Mingenew bakery was a little disappointing.
    We arrived in Dongara to a beautiful studio accomdation, with views of the beach. Luxury of showers and washing machine, running water and flushing toilets is so nice and never taken for granted.
    Dinner will be at the pub and then sleep in a bed, in a warm room.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 13

    Mt Magnet, Yalgoo, Coalseam NP

    June 2, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    The ground at Jundoo Dam was impenetrable to the shovel, so it was decided to breakfast at Mt Magnet with the closest facility, an hour away. The highly rated Gems Cafe was shut till next week, and the only place open for breakfast was at the petrol station and truck stop, Swagman. We shared a Big Breakfast, and big it was. That and the delicious hot coffee set us up for the day, and we did not have lunch.

    We did the Tourist Drive of Mt Magnet which took through the geographical and historical sights . After The Granites, a breakaway rock formation sacred to the Aboriginals, we went onto Lenonville. I told Grace that it was a tribute to John Lennon, and she sang "Yesterday" or some insect song all the way there. She was not impressed when we approached a small stone platform with piles of rubble in the distance. Lenonville was an old gold miners town, featuring it's own train station, 5 hotels, a bank and 2000 residents in the turn of the 20th century, when gold was found. Like many of these towns, it died as quickly as it sprung with more tales of heartache and loss than success and riches. There was a solitary grave of an unnamed mother and child who died during the typhoid epidemic of 1902.

    Yalgoo is a tiny town with one of the first buildings of Monsignor Hawke's. It was a convent with a school attached. The convent building has been restored but the school is in ruins. Had magnificent views from the lookout.

    We planned to ask the Visitors Information Centres at Yalgoo and Mullewa if they knew of any free campsites not on wikicamps. However, Yalgoo did not have a Visitors Information Centres, and the one at Mullewa was shut due to unforeseen circumstances. It was 3.30pm when we got to Mullewa, and the youths of all ages were arriving at the park in all sorts of ways; bicycles with 2 or 3 on a bicycle, skateboards and scooters with kids running behind and jostling, and so much laughter. Not an adult in sight. Such a contrast to childhood in the suburbs of Perth. We proceeded to Miners Campground at Coalseam National Park. It's quiet here, with only 3 other caravans in this park of about 25 campsites. And, there's a toilet. Luxury.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 12

    Jundoo Dam Sandstone

    June 1, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We decamped as soon as we woke up heading for Leonora for breakfast at the Food Van Cafe. We had a substantial breakfast of shared hamburger and a home made steak and onion pie, washed down with expresso and cappuccino in a nice china cup. We returned to this cafe as the multi-coloured hair lady presented our shared sausage roll in 2 separate plates with cutlery bundled in a cloth napkin, when we stopped for late lunch snack yesterday. I was so impressed that she bothered to do that for a $4 sausage roll shared between both of us when we ordered nothing else. Also, there were 2 men at a table outside the cafe, one was sobbing his big scruffy manly heart out to the other. The listener later came into the cafe kitchen, and it was obvious he was either staff or owner. Definately a very special cafe.
    Then we headed to Peter Denny lookout to set up our next camp but it was not the view that the write ups promised. Might have been more attractive if not for a fence between the campsite and the rocks, prohibiting any exploration. So we continued to Sandstone.
    Sandstone is a tiny town of population of 38 people with a very quaint pub that is a skimpy bar from 5pm. Sandstone was once a thriving Gold Rush town but when that went bust, sheep farms moved in. However, due to wild dogs, farmers had to change to cattle instead.
    Sandstone has a lovely and informative visitors information lady who directed us to a cafe for cake and coffee. Food was fabulous at this cafe but what's best was the owner sent us to a campsite that is not on Wikicamps and only 36km from Sandstone called Jundoo Dam.
    Jundoo Dam campsite is a great spot and helped us greatly as we didn't have any idea where to camp for tonight. We are the only ones here so we had a camp wash with delicate cups of water and tepid water warmed up in our cooking pot. It is amazing how clean we can feel with so little water.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 11

    The Terraces

    May 31, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This is quite a magical place and we are the only ones here. Quite privileged and special.
    Came across enormous scats about 3cm X 2cm x 2cm when we were taking a walk on the ridge. Don't know who they belong to.Having a lovely day just exploring the caves and the views from the top of the breakaways.

     The skies were clear on the first night, and being so far away from any light pollution, we put every layer of clothing on and stayed up to star gaze. Clouds provide cosmic blanket, so temperatures drop further at night when the skies are clear. The second day and night was clouded over, but we were grateful it did not rain. In our exploration, we came upon a sign that said that collection of fire wood was permitted. So we obliged and built a warm fire. So even though the night sky was clouded over and showed not a star, we stayed up to fire gaze, sans layers. A camping milestone achieved in this campsite was the accomplishment of executing shovel poop. Not a feat to be trivalised by the experienced or inexperienced campers. Many considerations needed to be met. How to locate the best spot, comfort in squatting, how deep the hole, and it's size, and how to be neat about it all. Much discussion and planning was had before the event.

    We saw camels and goats on our drive out of The Terraces. Maybe the big turds belong to camels. However, some were found at the top of the rock. It'd be interesting to see how a camel would get up the loose rocky and sometimes steep slope.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 10

    Gwalia and The Terraces

    May 30, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We woke at the crack of dawn to climb up the hill and also hello to another 8 of our sculpture friends spanning 2.5 km between them. The dawn colours were amazing and viewing the sculptures at this time was quite different to the evening.
    Gwalia is an old mining town where Herbert Hoover was the mining engineer and manager of the Sons of Gwalia Mining Company. He designed and commissioned the building of Hoover House for his living quarters in 1936. It is now a restored ghost town by the Historical Society of Gwalia after the closure of the mine saw to the population walk out of the town leaving everything behind.
    The Terraces is a stretch of rock formation where the erosions have left a range of breakaways, that is caves, and beautiful rock formations. We are the only ones camped here. We are here for 2 nights. The drive in was long and not advisable after rains.    Read more

  • TravelerWheatbelt and Goldfields
    Day 9

    Lake Ballard

    May 29, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Departed from Airbnb cottage at about 9am.
    Got petrol and almost 100km out of Kalgoorlie towards Menzies and Lake Ballard, Grace exclaimed that we forgot to buy ice. It is Sunday morning, and we don't know if anything will be open in little Menzies. Fortunately, a little pocket size general store trading from the side door of the hotel was opened, and yes, it sold ice.

    Lake Ballard is a dry salt lake. When we arrived, all we could see was flat red earth with a little hillock in the middle foreground. and shadows of Anthony Gormley's sculptures shimmered in the distance.

    We were determined to walk to all the 51 sculptures and greet each one individually. After walking about 6km around the lake, quite a bit of that in mud, we only acquainted with 28 of them. The ones closer to the shore where us humans start from are closer together, about 70-100m apart. However, the further away, the further apart they are. You can barely make out another sculpture in the distance when get to one. Walking back, we were wondering how to describe the experience. These words came to our mind:
    Ethereal
    Spiritual
    Serene
    Extra terrestrial

    By the way, the sun is not even set, and it's already freezing.    Read more

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