Kamboçya
Kandal

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    • Gün 5

      Abschied von Angkor

      19 Kasım 2023, Kamboçya ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Am letzten Tag in Angkor haben wir uns nochmal von Lara Croft inspirieren lassen und den Tempel La Prohm, wo u.a. Tomb Rider gedreht wurde, besucht.
      Absolut beeindruckend was die Natur für Kraft hat.

      "Bäume und Wurzeln schienen die berühmten Urwaldbauten in Kambodscha zu erdrücken, also wurde gefällt und gestutzt. Trotzdem - oder gerade deswegen - bröckeln die Tempel weiter. Sie sehen malerisch aus, die Würgefeigen, deren Wurzeln sich über die Mauern von Ta Prohm ergießen - und es dabei zu erdrücken drohen."
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 3

      Gräueltaten

      26 Kasım 2023, Kamboçya ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

      Harte Kost zu Beginn. Wenn man Kambodscha wahrhaft bereisen und erleben will, ist es unabdingbar auch etwas über die Schreckensherrschaft der Roten Khmer zu erfahren. Die Roten Khmer ermordeten in den 70er Jahren ein Viertel der Gesamtbevölkerung und verbreiteten mit ihrem Terrorregime Angst, Schrecken und Leid. Die Killing fields waren ihre Hinrichtungsstätten. Das killing field nahe Pnom Penh ist heute eine Gedenkstätte. Wir waren tief bewegt, erschüttert und fassungslos. Die Bilder sind absichtlich nur mit kurzen Titeln, aber ohne Text. ( googelt mal "killing fields")Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 50

      Khmer Rouge - Killing Field Choeung Ek

      4 Aralık 2023, Kamboçya ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Ich hatte bis dato noch nicht viel vom Völkermord gehört, der in Kambodscha stattfand, während ich geboren wurde. Wir Deutschen arbeiten unsere Geschichte im Unterricht relativ gut auf, hören aber zu wenig von anderen Teilen der Welt, wie mir scheint. Natürlich hatte ich schon von den Roten Khmer (Khmer Rouge) gehört, aber nicht wirklich verstanden, was die angerichtet haben. Nun steh ich hier auf einem Killing Field. Mit einem Guide, der durch die Khmer Rouge seinen Vater verlor. Und nach und nach erfahre ich Dinge, die ich lieber nicht gewusst hätte. Während ich im Sonnenschein auf einem Massengrab stehe.
      Die Schreckensherrschaft der Roten Khmer in Kambodscha dauerte von 1975 bis 1979. Durch Zwangsarbeit, Hungersnöte, Folter und Mord kamen in diesen Jahren Schätzungen zufolge etwa 1,7 Millionen Menschen ums Leben - fast ein Viertel der Gesamtbevölkerung. Manche Schätzungen gehen von bis zu 3 Millionen Getöteten aus. Das ist auch die Zahl, die die Fremdenführer in Kambodscha angeben (ebenso die UN und Unicef). Das Ganze bei einer damaligen Gesamteinwohnerzahl von 7-8 Millionen.
      Choeung Ek, eine ehemalige Farm, wurde wie zu viele andere Orte, zu einem sogenannten Killing Field. Einziger Zweck: die Gefangenen, die aus den Gefängnissen der Khmer Rouge hierher kamen, sofort umzubringen.
      Anwohner waren die ersten, denen auffiel, dass hier etwas anders war, als sie nach dem Ende des Regimes wieder in ihr Dorf zurück konnten.
      In Choeung Ek wurden 8.895 Leichen entdeckt. Es wurde beschlossen, nur 86 der 129 Massengräber hier zu öffnen. Schätzungen gehen davon aus, dass hier etwa 20.000 Menschen getötet wurden. Viele der Toten waren ehemalige politische Gefangene, die die Roten Khmer in ihrem Internierungslager Tuol Sleng (und anderen Gefängnissen) festhielten.
      Das Killing Field ist extrem aufwühlend, ich sehe es den Gesichtern aller Besucher an, die mir entgegenkommen. Unserem Guide Sam fällt es schwer, überhaupt hier zu sein. Sein Vater und zwei Onkel sind vermutlich genau hier umgebracht worden. Einzelheiten machen das Schreckliche sichtbar, aber nicht fassbar. Knochen und Kleidungsstücke, die aus dem Boden kommen, über den man auf Planken läuft. Die zwei giftigen Bäume (Killing Trees), die damals zum Vergiften der Gefangenen verwendet wurde. Bis auf diese zwei wurden alle anderen gefällt nach Regime-Ende (und das waren viele Bäume). Man sieht die Mulden, wo die Erde eingesackt ist. Die Mulden liegen dicht aneinander, die grösste wurde das Grab von 450 Menschen. In einem Grab lagen nur Körper ohne Kopf. Bäume, in denen Lautsprecher für Musik aufgehangen wurden, um die Todesschreie zu übertönen. Bäume, an denen Kinderköpfe und Babykörper zerschmettert wurden, während die Eltern zusehen mussten. Ein Massengrab, wo nur Kinder und geschändete, nackte Frauenkörper lagen. Schuppen, in denen die primitiven, und daher um so schrecklichen Werkzeuge gelagert wurden, die zum Töten verwendet wurden, bspw. Feldhacken oder auch Palmblätter mit ihre sägeartigen Kanten, mit denen Menschen enthauptet wurden. Es existieren Fotos von Leichenbergen und abgemagerten Gefangenen, die denen aus deutschen Konzentrationslagern so schrecklich ähnlich sehen. Die Khmer Rouge nahmen keinerlei Rücksicht auf Alter oder Geschlecht. Ihrem Leitspruch folgend, dass man Gras auch mit den gesamten Wurzeln ausreißen muss, wenn man es ausrotten will, ließen sie keine Babys oder Kinder leben, die sich evt. später rächen könnten.
      Heute ist Choeung Ek ein Denkmal, das durch eine buddhistische Stupa gekennzeichnet ist. Die Stupa hat Seiten aus Acrylglas und ist mit über 5.000 menschlichen Schädeln gefüllt. Einige tiefere Ebenen sind tagsüber geöffnet, sodass die Schädel direkt zu sehen sind. Viele wurden zerschmettert oder eingeschlagen, sie sind nach Alter der Ermordeten sortiert.

      I hadn't heard much about the genocide that was taking place in Cambodia while I was being born. We Germans work on our history relatively well in class, but it seems to me that we don't hear enough about other parts of the world. Of course I had heard about the Khmer Rouge, but didn't really understand what they had done. Now I'm standing here on a killing field. With a guide who lost his father to the Khmer Rouge. And little by little I learn things that I would rather not have known. While I stand in the sunshine on a mass grave.
      The Khmer Rouge's reign of terror in Cambodia lasted from 1975 to 1979. During these years, an estimated 1.7 million people - almost a quarter of the total population - lost their lives due to forced labor, starvation, torture and murder. Some estimates put up to 3 million people killed. This is also the number given by tourist guides in Cambodia (as well as the UN and Unicef). All this with a total population of 7-8 million at the time.
      Choeung Ek, a former farm, became, like too many other places, a so-called killing field. The only purpose: to immediately kill the prisoners who came here from the Khmer Rouge prisons.
      Local residents were the first to notice that something was different here when they were able to return to their village after the end of the regime.
      8,895 bodies were discovered at Choeung Ek. It was decided to open only 86 out of the 129 mass graves found. Estimations are that around 20,000 people were killed here. Many of the dead were former political prisoners who the Khmer Rouge kept in their Tuol Sleng detention center (and other prisons).
      The killing field is extremely disturbing, I can see it on the faces of all the visitors who come towards me. Our guide Sam finds it difficult to even be here. His father and two uncles were probably killed right here. Details make the horror visible but incomprehensible. Bones and pieces of clothing coming out of the ground you walk across on planks. The two poisonous trees (killing trees) that were used to poison prisoners back then. Except for these two, all the others were felled after the regime ended (and that was a lot of trees). You can see the hollows where the earth has collapsed. The hollows are close together, the largest was the grave of 450 people. In one grave there were only bodies without heads. Trees in which loudspeakers were hung for music to drown out the screams of death. Trees where children's heads and babies' bodies were smashed while parents watched. A mass grave where only children and violated naked women's bodies lay. Sheds in which the primitive and therefore terrible tools that were used for killing were stored, for example field hoes or palm leaves with their saw-like edges, with which people were beheaded. There are photos of piles of corpses and emaciated prisoners that look terribly similar to those from German concentration camps. The Khmer Rouge had no regard for age or gender. Following their motto that if you want to eradicate grass, you have to pull it out with all the roots, they didn't let any babies or children live who might take revenge later.
      Today, Choeung Ek is a memorial, marked by a Buddhist stupa. The stupa has acrylic glass sides and is filled with over 5,000 human skulls. Some lower levels are opened during the day so that the skulls can be seen directly. Many have been shattered or smashed in.
      They are sorted by age of the murdered humans.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 109–111

      Penm Phen - part 2

      22 Mayıs, Kamboçya ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

      Still feeling a little lethargic, we started the day slowly by going to a very high-end coffee shop to catch up on blogging and research our next moves. While wandering to our lunch spot, we were cajoled by a tuk-tuk driver who said he'd take us to Oudong, where we wanted to go tomorrow. So, we agreed on $50 with him and exchanged details. For lunch, we went to a fantastic café/restaurant that serves traditional Khmer food with a modern twist. It was amazing. We got what the waitress recommended and felt like we got a great flavor profile of the cuisine. We had Amok, a curried fish dish, and a soup (all Cambodian meals should be accompanied by soup), which had small fish and fish eggs in it and was definitely an acquired taste. The beef slices on the grill were our favorite. For dessert, we got some shaved ice with floral flavors and, weirdly, some actual kidney/black beans at the bottom. It was an interesting addition but not terrible.

      We then headed to S21, the former security prison where the Khmer Rouge imprisoned and tortured people. It was also pretty harrowing and quite graphic, with images of the dead bodies found in the very room you were standing in when it was liberated. For me, the most harrowing thing was seeing the tiny spaces people were kept in and the row upon row of faces of prisoners who were tortured in the prison, especially the children. As we were leaving, it rained heavily, and we got soaking wet.

      That evening, we went out and did a cocktail/beer crawl through some locally produced breweries and on to Bassac Street where the real clubs and bars are. As it was a weekday, it was quite quiet, but we made our own fun and had a great time.

      We woke up early, regretting our agreed 8 AM pick-up time with our tuk-tuk driver. Oudong is a town about an hour outside Phnom Penh and used to be the old capital of the country. Our driver first took us to a shop where they made silver jewelry, which was interesting to see. The mother and owner of the business passed us to her son, who was in his late teens and spoke such impeccable English, he could have been schooled in Oxford. Although they had some nice stuff, we didn't find anything we liked, and after asking a few questions about their process, we said goodbye and went on to the sites.

      Our first stop was Phreah Reach Throap Mountain, which was a long hot walk up lots of steps to get to the top. There were few to no tourists, so we got a lot of stares and hellos from local children. The temple at the top was beautifully and intricately decorated and overlooked a fantastic view of the surrounding landscape. We wandered about trying to get cool and also looked at the old temples just next to it before heading back down. We then went to the Cambodia Buddhist Vipassana Center, which from what we understood was a monastery where monks and nuns were taught. It was stunning and completely deserted.

      After wandering around, our tuk-tuk driver had arranged for us to eat at a local lady’s stall. However, when we got there, she wanted to charge us $20 for an unspecified chicken meal. Given this extortionate price and the basic kitchen facilities, we declined. She then offered us half a chicken for $10 and showed us the pieces which were chicken feet, a head, and some wings, which didn't do much to convince us. We politely declined and headed back into town and to our hotel. Our driver seemed disappointed as he'd offered to take home any leftovers. After the heat and exhaustion of the day, we relaxed by the pool and didn’t venture out until evening when we sat in the main square and watched a lot of people jogging and children playing. We enjoyed our new favorite drink, a watermelon shake, and then got a second round of coconut water before heading to bed for our early start tomorrow.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 181

      Siem Reap & Angkor temples

      6 Mart 2017, Kamboçya ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

      Yesterday we made the 7 hour bus journey from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap - after not looking forward to it, the bus was actually OK and the journey was smooth. Best of all, the hotel waiting for us at the end of it (Mulberry Boutique Hotel, in case anyone wants to make a note) is amazing. Laura's many hours of searching paid off when she found an online special offer and we have a family suite here, with 2 bedrooms over 2 floors, plus 2 bathrooms and a sitting area, all for only £20 per night for 2 nights! It is normally $150 per night, so unsurprisingly we were unable to negotiate the same deal to stay for a 3rd night but they did offer us it for $60, so as it is so lovely we've decided to stay an extra night as a pre-birthday treat. It is by far the best room we've had on our trip so far (and almost certainly will remain so - given the expense of our next destinations!).

      Today we hired a tuk-tuk and driver to take us to see some of the temples. This morning we went to the Angkor Thom complex. We started with Bayon, the large temple you see in photos #3 & #4, with many very large faces carved into the stone. We then walked around as much of the rest of this massive temple complex as Solana, and the heat of the day (temp in mid-30s C and sunny - too hot for sightseeing in the middle of the day). It was amazing to think how they built the temples so tall and precisely, with no machinery to help (most of them were built in the 1100s) - something we've said again and again at ancient temple sites across the world. The rock carvings here were impressive too, with many including elephants and people carved into the rock faces, some repeated dozens of times over. After a well-earned ice lolly, we came back to the hotel for a dip in the pool and lunch, before heading out again this afternoon.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 181

      Angkor Wat

      6 Mart 2017, Kamboçya ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

      And now for the big one - we visited Angkor Wat this afternoon. Apparently it is the largest place of worship in the world. It certainly was very impressive, even after seeing the temples at Angkor Thom this morning. We entered Angkor Wat over the stone bridge across the 180m wide moat that goes all the way around the temple complex. We were explaining to Solana that the moat was made to protect the temple and she concluded from that that anyone bad who tried to get over would be pushed into the water to be eaten by crocodiles! You then walk along a long pathway that leads to the main temple complex, with the iconic view of Angkor Wat in front of you along the way. Once inside, we spent a couple of hours exploring. It was pretty busy inside but it quietened down a lot towards 5pm. Solana met a couple of other little girls around her own age, the first we think was Japanese and the 2nd, pictured here, we're pretty sure was Cambodian; the two of them attracted quite a crowd, all wanting photos of the cute little girls! Solana is loving the idea of Buddha and today she was asking questions about the offerings people had made to the statues in the temples; we told her about offerings and she wanted to make an offering herself. After talking about the different types of offerings (many of them here were sweets - bearing a remarkable resemblance to Werther's Originals!), she offered some money; a monk then offered her a blessing of luck with holy water and tied a red cotton bracelet around her wrist. It was lovely to see her interaction with him. As it got later, the light got even better and we managed to get some photos of Angkor Wat together with its reflection in a lake - seen here with us spoiling the artistic view!

      As with many things, the photos don't really do it justice but it gives you a flavour of what we've seen anyway. All in all, it was very reminiscent of the days we spent in Central America 12 years ago, wandering around the Mayan and Aztec sites including Chichen Itza, Tikal and Copan - but here there are slightly fewer mosquitoes and definitely more tuk-tuks! It is also striking every time we see such ancient buildings, the similarities between different such sites in very different parts of the world, geographically distant and often built in different eras - e.g. the Mayan and Aztec temples of Central America, Machu Picchu in Peru, Angkor Wat, the ancient cities in Thailand, the pyramids in Egypt. It makes us wonder - did ancient civilisations have more contact with one another than we know, or did many different groups of people come up with similar ideas independently?.... We also saw a bit of wildlife around the temples today - including monkeys, lizards, myna birds, butterflies, frogs and parrots. Tomorrow we plan to visit some of the other temples in the area (to get our moneys worth from our $62 each tickets - they went up in price dramatically just last month, from only $40 per person!).
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 182

      Ta Prohm & around

      7 Mart 2017, Kamboçya ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

      Today we went to Ta Prohm - also known as "Tomb Raider" temple, as this is where they filmed it. It was very different to the temples we saw yesterday, with much of it still in ruins and still undergoing restoration. They are working against the clock, as the trees and roots grow through the temple stonework and the jungle tries to reclaim the land. On the one hand, it is a real shame to see the already precarious structures being damaged further but on the other hand it has a strange beauty about the place. We all really enjoyed exploring the ramshackle temples and, if it weren't for the dozens of other people milling around, we could easily have believed we had just discovered them! The first 3 photos here are from Ta Prohm.

      Afterwards we went to the nearby temple complex of Banteay Kdei (photo #4). This was a better preserved site than Ta Prohm but not as well preserved as Angkor Wat or Angkor Thom that we saw yesterday. It had great long corridors of doorways, that you can see all the way through. It also has high vaulted towers between the corridors and many of these were homes to colonies of bats - which we could both smell and see! We also loved all the many brightly coloured butterflies we saw fluttering around at this site - we must have seen at least 6 different species just during one 10-minute rest stop. Slightly less welcome wildlife were the ants - we were reading an info sign and didn't notice until too late than Solana had stood in an ants nest - they were all over her foot and she got bitten several times, bless her. After much screaming, lots of cold water and a carry back to our tuk-tuk, she was OK....

      We managed to see Sras Srang (photo #5), the royal bathing pool (more like a large lake!), before we headed back to town. Cambodia seems to be a big fan of hammocks, in the same vein as Costa Rica. It is interesting because we didn't see any hammocks at all in Vietnam, until we reached the Mekong area where they started to make an appearance, but here they seem much more popular. Whereas in Costa Rica there were plenty of hammocks for the tourists (as you saw from our photos), here they seem to be reserved for the locals - many of whom appear to be quite fond of a siesta! The last photo shows Solana with Sing, our tuk-tuk driver for the past 2 days - she is quite taken with him and keeps asking us where he is.

      Finally, for those of you who were wondering, I have now seen my cherry tree in blossom to remind me of Springtime at home - thanks to Gemma for the photo of our garden. You can all sleep soundly in your beds tonight now!
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 183

      Siem Reap

      8 Mart 2017, Kamboçya ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

      Today we had a quieter day, catching up on trip planning, arranging transport, laundry, etc (not exciting, but necessary). We have decided to stay in Siem Reap for another few days, instead of our original plan to move on to another town in Cambodia. There is plenty to do here and it should give us chance to catch up on preparations for the next leg of our trip (we fly to New Zealand next week), as well as fortifying ourselves before the 10-hour bus journey to Bangkok and another imminent round of jet lag... Selfishly, it also means that I do not have to spend my birthday tomorrow on a bus! We went for a last swim in the pool of our fantastic hotel before we had to check out and move to a hotel across town (also very nice and above budget - a birthday treat!). We went out for a walk in a park by the riverside and saw lots of large fruit bats roosting in the trees - fascinating to see. Having missed out on the Foreign Correspondents Club in Phnom Penh, we found the FCC in Siem Reap and enjoyed a "happy hour" cocktail there this evening (whilst Solana practised her photography skills again!). We ended up going to an Indian restaurant tonight and, although not up to Bradford standards, it was better than we expected. We also saw a pharmacy that doubled (tripled?) as a mini-mart and money exchange shop - possibly an idea for pharmacies in Britain who are feeling the economic pinch?...Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 184

      Julie's Birthday

      9 Mart 2017, Kamboçya ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      On Thursday we celebrated my birthday in Siem Reap. I had a few birthday cards (which Solana was very excited about and desperate to "help" me open!) and Laura even managed to find a bottle of fizz as a present, which was a nice surprise. In the morning we did a Cambodian cooking class. We visited the food market, then made some traditional Cambodian dishes. We both made mango salad to start, then Laura made beef lok-lak and I made fish Amok for main courses. They were tasty and, although some of the ingredients may be difficult to get at home, we would try to recreate them with substitutes where needed.

      In the afternoon we visited another temple (photos to follow in a separate post). In the evening, the hotel staff knocked at the door and brought me a birthday cheesecake, complete with candle! It was a nice touch and Solana loved it - she thinks a birthday is not complete without a cake & candles. For dinner we went to a Japanese shabu shabu restaurant - where you select items from a food conveyor belt and cook them in a soupy broth at your table. It was great fun (once we'd worked out to avoid the offal!) and they even had a bit of sushi - tasty. The day was rounded off by finishing off the bottle of fizz - a great way to end a good day.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 184

      Last Cambodian temple visit

      9 Mart 2017, Kamboçya ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      On Thursday afternoon we went out in a tuk-tuk to visit one of the further out temples, Banteay Srei. Although this site was smaller than the others we have visited, it was more colourful (with stone shades of pink, yellow and grey) and ornately and intricately carved than the other sites we've visited. It has been good to see the differences between the different temple sites around Siem Reap. Although we haven't seen all of them, we feel like we've done enough to get a good flavour of the area, without feeling too "templed out".

      On the way to Banteay Srei we went to a butterfly centre and had an informative tour, seeing many different types of colourful butterflies and caterpillars. We also got to see some chrysalis, a little frog and some giant stick insects (plus more mosquitoes than we would have liked). Banteay Srei is about 40km out of Siem Reap and it was also good to see a bit more of rural life on the way out to this area. However, as I'm sure anyone who has ridden in a tuk-tuk will understand, it was a bone-shakingly bumpy ride - we had to hold on to Solana a few times...and we wished we had selected our most rubust bras for this particular journey!
      Okumaya devam et

    Burayı şu adlarla da biliyor olabilirsiniz:

    Kandal, Propinsi Kandal, Кандал, Provincia de Kandal, Provinsi Kandal, Provincia di Kandal, カンダル州, កណ្តាល, 칸달 주, Wilayah Kandal, Kandal Lalawigan, صوبہ کنڈال, Кандаль, Kandal Province, จังหวัดกันดาล, 干丹省

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