Sep – Dec 2023

Bike Touring Japan (Part 2)

This bike trip will include riding around Kyushu, an island with A LOT of volcanic activities; take a ferry to Shikoku and finish our adventure in Hiroshima.
https://www.travellerspoint.com/map/#/trip/1401697/stop/12137450 Read more

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Bike Touring Japan (Part 2)
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- Day 32
- Sunday, October 29, 2023 at 2:50 PM
- ☀️ 22 °C
- Altitude: 15 m
- Japan Beppuchō 31.934912, 131.42407231°56’6” N 131°25’27” E
Miyazakijingu festival
October 29, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
This festival (matsuri) features “a procession of the gods” at one of Miyazaki Prefecture’s major Shinto shrines with a history of more than 140 years. Participants in the parade wear traditional garb and some are on horseback.Read more
TravelerMagnifique 🤩
10/29/23ReplyTranslate
TravelerOui, des costumes bien colorés surtout pour les enfants. Tu aurais aimé.
10/29/23ReplyTranslate
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- Day 33
- Monday, October 30, 2023 at 3:05 PM
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 304 m
- Japan Eboshi-yama 32.677448, 131.3245732°40’39” N 131°19’28” E
Adventure with many bridges
October 30, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
After a stop at the ATM of the post office and at the local grocery store for some lunch food (sushi and fruit), we left Nobeoka around 10:00am and started riding along the river. We knew it would be a long and challenging day with a lot of up and down mainly following the river all the way to Takachiho Gorge. Our lunch spot was at a beautiful road closure but “open to bicyclists” :) We saw and crossed many bridges of different colors and heights. After a good descent followed by a very steep uphill, an old man with a red flag told us that our route to Takachiho was closed, even for bicycles… :(
It was a loooong day! 75kms with more than 1,000 meters of elevation gain.Read more
TravelerSorry, I seem to have given you the wrong route.
10/30/23Reply
TravelerIt was a beautiful ride! There was no warning sign that route 50 is closed or maybe there was but we couldn’t read it… We made it safely and saw the sunset :).
10/30/23Reply
TravelerI don’t know how road closures are disclosed, but Google didn't know about it either. It’s the right route when the road is open. Perfect for bike touring!
10/30/23Reply
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- Day 34
- Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 10:13 AM
- ☀️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 225 m
- Japan Mitai 32.702141, 131.30090332°42’8” N 131°18’3” E
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Beautiful Takachiho Gorge
October 31, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Since we didn’t have a reservation for the rental of a rowing boat and didn’t want to wait for 3-3.5hours, we just walked along the beautiful Takachiho Gorge. We were happy with our decision: we had rewarding and free views of the waterfalls.
For dinner, we went to a Japanese restaurant in a traditional old house in charming Takamori town. We cooked pieces of local chicken , 2 beef skewers, a trout, some miso glazed tofu and veggies. Great experience!Read more
Traveler Thank you for using our cycle rack.
10/31/23Reply
Breathtakingly beautiful! Fabulous photos! Thanks!!! [Mom/Marcia]
11/2/23Reply
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- Day 36
- Thursday, November 2, 2023 at 1:20 PM
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Altitude: 1,459 m
- Japan Aso-san 32.880417, 131.097932°52’50” N 131°5’52” E
Aso Kuju National Park by bike & foot
November 2, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
The volcanic caldera of Mt Aso-San is the 3rd largest in the world (128 kms in circumference): it is HUGE and beautiful!!!
Aso Gogaku (the 5 peaks of Mt Aso) stand in the center of the caldera. Mt Nakadake (1,506m), one of the main peaks, is an active volcano with 7 craters: volcanic plumes can be seen spewing out of the 1st crater. The latest major eruption was in October 2016.
Mt Takadake (1,592m) is the highest peak of Aso Gogaku and an excellent hiking destination.
Riding a bike to the 1st crater of Nakadake is challenging and extremely rewarding for anyone who likes a climb with incredible views. We were lucky to have perfect weather conditions.
Hiking to Mt Takadake gives different and better views of the active crater.Read more
You are so lucky to get up there! It has been closed the two times we were there. [Kristen LaBonte]
11/14/23Reply
TravelerYes, we were extremely lucky: no wind and not too much volcanic activity. Hope you can make it next time.
11/14/23Reply
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- Day 37
- Friday, November 3, 2023 at 2:38 PM
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 605 m
- Japan Tanoharu Onsen 33.081585, 131.1229133°4’54” N 131°7’22” E
Colorful foliage and comfortable ryokan
November 3, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
To exit the caldera of Mt Aso-San, we avoided busy route 11 by riding on a “secret” road recommended by our host Fukutomi at Sanrinsha in Takamori town. There was no traffic except 2 local cyclists on their road bike.
We were also rewarded with beautiful Fall colors and arrived early at our ryokan in Tanoharu Onsen, which is next to Kurokawa Onsen. The 3 hot spring baths and the 10 different dishes for dinner were outstanding. Horse sashimi was part of the menu.Read more
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- Day 38
- Saturday, November 4, 2023 at 10:05 AM
- ☁️ 19 °C
- Altitude: 593 m
- Japan Tanoharu Onsen 33.081894, 131.12402333°4’55” N 131°7’26” E
Fantastic roller coaster ride to Hita
November 4, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Thanks to an English speaking lady at the Aso tourist information center, we had a fantastic ride to get to Hita. We followed her suggestion which was to take the Farm Road Waita and the Sky Farm Road Hita. There was no traffic except many friendly motorcycle riders and A LOT of up and down at 8-10% grade going through farm land, forests and small onsen villages. Definitely a highlight of our adventure around Kyushu: 58kms with 1,000m of elevation gain.Read more
TravelerLovely fall colors.... everything looks so cool and different! I wanna stop teaching and go riding with you guys!
11/4/23Reply
TravelerThanks for following us amiga. Japan is an amazing country full of surprises. You would love it but being a vegetarian here would be extremely difficult… Hugs.
11/4/23Reply
TravelerBeing vegetarian would be difficult here, but there are options. Let’s ride and eat natto! https://www.japan.travel/en/guide/vegetarian-gu…
11/5/23Reply
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- Day 39
- Sunday, November 5, 2023 at 4:27 PM
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 13 m
- Japan Beppu Railway Station 33.279648, 131.50079333°16’47” N 131°30’3” E
Beppu, a city of hot springs
November 5, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Beppu famous for the numerous onsen bathing opportunities, is our final destination in Kyushu. We are both tired: we took a local train today. We are going to rest for a couple of days before taking a ferry to Shikoku.Read more
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- Day 40
- Monday, November 6, 2023 at 4:49 PM
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
- Japan Asami Gawa 33.277878, 131.50341833°16’40” N 131°30’12” E
Rest day in Beppu
November 6, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Just wandering around and exploring the area around our hostel (walk along the beach, totally overwhelmed by the amount of stuff in the Don Quijote store, intrigued by the big head with the excessively long red nose…) Beppu really wakes up after sunset when all the buildings, restaurants, clubs, karaoke bars lit up. We read that city nightlife in Beppu is boisterous…Read more
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- Day 41
- Tuesday, November 7, 2023 at 3:02 PM
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Altitude: 47 m
- Japan Kemegawa-chūōmachi 33.327232, 131.47840933°19’38” N 131°28’42” E
The 7 hells of Beppu
November 7, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
The hells (“jigoku in Japanese) of Beppu are 7 touristy hot springs (onsens) to view in the foothills of the city. Like everything in Japan, it’s very well organized and efficient with frequent buses, a package of 7 tickets and excellent signage to see all of them in one morning or afternoon.
One blog that I read, describes Beppu as the “onsen Las Vegas” of Japan.
Totally agree!Read more
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- Day 42
- Wednesday, November 8, 2023 at 3:40 PM
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 77 m
- Japan Uchiko 33.556705, 132.65339733°33’24” N 132°39’12” E
Uchiko, a charming and traditional town
November 8, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Taking a ferry is not the cheapest way to travel but it’s easy and pleasant. Cyclists are the last ones to board: ferry staff take really good care of bicycles (use of blankets, ropes and big wheel chocks :)
Our plan was to ride to Uchiko until I fell while walking and sprained my ankle :(
Sooo, we took a train and checked in at Uchikobare Guesthouse, a beautiful traditional Japanese house in the Historic District Preservation Zone.
Wealthy merchants in Uchiko made a fortune in the production of vegetable wax which is made from the berries of the sumac tree. It was exported and used to make candles, soap or polish for woodwork.Read more
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- Day 43
- Thursday, November 9, 2023 at 10:02 AM
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 189 m
- Japan Iyo Nakayama-eki 33.65163, 132.71110533°39’6” N 132°42’40” E
Change of plan: resting in train & bus
November 9, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Hmm, my ankle is improving but still pretty swollen and heavy rain is predicted for most of the day tomorrow. Should we still keep our plan which involves two days of strenuous riding in a remote, beautiful but very hilly forested area where public transportation is limited?
After going back and forth, we decided to modify our plans. We took a train to Matsuyama, the biggest city of Shikoku. Then, we took a comfortable bus to Kochi.Read more
OUCH!! Glad you opted for ferry & train rides, for now! [Marcia]
11/9/23Reply
TravelerAh oui, je n’avais pas vu ta cheville
11/11/23Reply
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- Day 44
- Friday, November 10, 2023 at 1:26 PM
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 28 m
- Japan Usachō 33.435024, 133.44784533°26’6” N 133°26’52” E
Shoryuji: Temple No 36
November 10, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
The henro (pilgrim of the 88 temple walk) is everywhere you go when traveling around Shikoku. Their dress is uniform: white garments (hakue), a straw hat (sugegasa) and a colorful staff (kongozue).
They all follow in the legendary footsteps of Kōbō Daishi, the monk who attained enlightenment in Shikoku, established Shingon Buddhism in Japan and made significant contributions to Japanese culture.
Since we had a reservation at Tennen onsen located in Tosa, a small town on the coast, not far from Kochi, we rode there to spend the night and enjoy delicious food. On the way there, we visited Temple No 36.Read more
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- Day 45
- Saturday, November 11, 2023 at 10:19 AM
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 128 m
- Japan Usa 33.417469, 133.43136633°25’3” N 133°25’53” E
Ride to Susaki & train back to Kochi
November 11, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Tennen Onsen was fantastic (nice hot spring, excellent food and great location to take it easy). Dave planned a fun day ride: head south to Susaki and take a train back to Kochi where we’ll spend two nights.Read more
TravelerÇa donne envie de goûter vos plats miam miam 😀
11/14/23ReplyTranslate
TravelerLa cuisine japonaise est vraiment surprenante et raffinée avec un mélange de goût et une très belle présentation. Pas de pain ou de fromage…
11/14/23ReplyTranslate
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- Day 46
- Sunday, November 12, 2023 at 2:13 PM
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 8 m
- Japan Nishitakasu-eki 33.557629, 133.57453933°33’27” N 133°34’28” E
Sunday in Kochi
November 12, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
The weekly Sunday market in Kochi (300 years old) is popular and well attended: A LOT of fruit (sweet mandarins and persimmons at this time of the year) and home grown vegetables by local farmers.
For lunch, we had an amazing meal at Nishimura Shoten: the fresh tuna looked like a piece of art!
Temple 31 (Chikurinji) on top of a hill next to the botanical garden, features a five story pagoda and thousands of statues.Read more
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- Day 47
- Monday, November 13, 2023 at 10:44 AM
- ☀️ 13 °C
- Altitude: 34 m
- Japan Kochi castle 33.561302, 133.53178433°33’41” N 133°31’54” E
Train ride to Oboke Gorge
November 13, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
My ankle is getting better but today’s ride to Oboke Gorge looked long and not very appealing (a lot of traffic to get out of Kochi). We decided to take a direct local train at 12:45pm: it gave us time to visit Kochi castle and to do some grocery shopping for lunch. It was fun!Read more
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- Day 48
- Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 9:43 AM
- ☀️ 8 °C
- Altitude: 246 m
- Japan Deai 33.942745, 133.8086733°56’34” N 133°48’31” E
Riding in the Iya Valley
November 14, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
Riding the mostly one-lane old “Iya Highway” (Rt 32) is a cycling paradise: almost no traffic and breathtaking views of a steep valley with the emerald waters of the Iya River at the bottom.
Iya-no-Kazurabashi, a wisteria vine bridge, is a glorious remnant of a remote and timeless Japan.Read more
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- Day 49
- Wednesday, November 15, 2023 at 11:41 AM
- ☁️ 8 °C
- Altitude: 898 m
- Japan Higashi-iyayama-son 33.854988, 134.0206633°51’18” N 134°1’14” E
Ride at the foot of Tsuguri-san
November 15, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
Higashi-Iya (East Iya) gets more and more remote and it’s a long climb to the foot of Tsuguri-san, Shikoku’s 2nd highest peak (1,955m).
A couple of days ago, a storm brought snow at the top of the mountains. It was a beautiful but very cold ride down to Iwado.Read more
TravelerLove the fall colors! This part seems super remote! I love it ❤️
11/15/23Reply
TravelerRiding in the 60 km long Iya Valley is definitely a highlight of our trip in Shikoku. Glad to have some warm clothes: it’s cold and damp in this deep, forested area.
11/15/23Reply
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- Day 51
- Friday, November 17, 2023 at 11:54 AM
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 90 m
- Japan Kotohira 34.185139, 133.81657434°11’7” N 133°48’60” E
Getting out of the mountains
November 17, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
A cold storm with heavy rain and snow at altitude is predicted: time to roll out of the mountains and head towards the northern coast of Shikoku.
We are going to stay in Kotohira for 2 nights until the storm is over.
The small village of Kotohira is home to one of the most famous tourist attractions in Shikoku, Konpira-san, a Shinto shrine dedicated to the god of seafarers.Read more
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- Day 51
- Friday, November 17, 2023 at 2:35 PM
- 🌧 13 °C
- Altitude: 173 m
- Japan Kotohira Yama 34.183463, 133.81219534°11’0” N 133°48’44” E
Konpira-san under the rain
November 17, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
Hiking to the top of Konpira-san, a beautiful Shinto shrine, was the perfect outing for a rainy day (1368 steep stone steps).
Love the misty quality of this. [Martha]
11/17/23Reply
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- Day 52
- Saturday, November 18, 2023 at 10:04 AM
- 🌧 5 °C
- Altitude: 108 m
- Japan Kotohira 34.184727, 133.81668134°11’5” N 133°49’0” E
L’aventure continue…
November 18, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 5 °C
The hail storm is not over yet and it’s really cold and windy. According to our sweet owner/ hostess of Ryokan Toramaru, this kind of weather is very unusual…
Anyway, we put our walking shoes and most of our clothes on, ready to ride in this crazy weather.
Temple 75 (Zentsu-ji, the largest of the 88 temples and the one where Kobo Daishi was born) is not far and sounds like an interesting temple to see. By the time we get there, my hands and feet are wet and “frozen”.
After an excellent udon soup with vegetables tempura for lunch, everything gets better :)
Our final destination in Shikoku is Takamatsu (65kms).Read more
TravelerHow is the ankle doing? Looks cold!!!!
11/18/23Reply
TravelerThe ankle is much better (no problem pedaling but still sensitive when going down stairs…). Oh, YES, Winter came overnight: so glad we were not in the mountains... We are now along the coast: it should warm up a little bit.
11/18/23Reply
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- Day 53
- Sunday, November 19, 2023 at 1:26 PM
- 🌬 16 °C
- Altitude: 19 m
- Japan Ritsurin-kōen 34.32727, 134.0444234°19’38” N 134°2’40” E
Ritsurin garden in Takamatsu
November 19, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 16 °C
Ritsurin-koen is one of the most beautiful gardens in the country. It took more than a century to complete.
Vraiment magnifique!!!
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- Day 54
- Monday, November 20, 2023 at 11:49 AM
- 🌬 17 °C
- Altitude: 5 m
- Japan Tonosho Port 34.489197, 134.17349234°29’21” N 134°10’25” E
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Ferry to Shodō-shima
November 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 17 °C
The word “shima” in Japanese means “island”. Japan is an archipelago of 14,125 islands. According to Wikipedia, approximately 430 are inhabited. The 4 largest islands are: Hokkaido in the north, Honshu with the most populated city in the world, Tokyo (37 millions), Kyushu with its very active volcanoes and Shikoku, the smallest and the “wildest” of the 4.
This morning, we left Shikoku and took a ferry to Shodō-shima, an island known for its olive groves. Coastal roads on Shidō-shima are scenic with great vistas of the Seto Inland Sea; the interior that we want to explore, is mountainous.
Bicycle rentals (standard, road or electric) are easy, affordable and many tourists are using them. Very cool!Read more
Love this tatami napping area! [~melanie]
11/22/23Reply
But fish cheeks are such a delicacy! [~m]
11/22/23Reply
TravelerYes, but what about that big eye staring at you? Do you eat it too? Happy Thanksgiving my friend!
11/22/23Reply
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- Day 55
- Tuesday, November 21, 2023 at 4:46 PM
- ☀️ 14 °C
- Altitude: 758 m
- Japan Shōdo Island 34.512516, 134.28280634°30’45” N 134°16’58” E
Epic day ride on Shodō-shima
November 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
Going on a day ride without all the gear is always a treat. First, we did some grocery shopping for breakfast and lunch: food options on this island are limited.
Dave planned the perfect ride clockwise: start along the northern coast with views on Seto Inland Sea, lunch at a rest stop, long and steep climb to Kankakei ropeway, sunset at Shihouzashi viewpoint and long descent back to our pension in Tonosho (65 kms, 1350m of elevation gain).Read more
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- Day 56
- Wednesday, November 22, 2023 at 1:50 PM
- ☀️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 114 m
- Japan La Forêt des Murmures 34.485847, 134.08587834°29’9” N 134°5’9” E
Art on Teshima Island
November 22, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
The remote and small island of Teshima (population of 800 inhabitants) used to be known as “the island of milk”. But in the 70s, it suffered from illegal dumping of industrial waste transforming its pristine environment into “an island of garbage”. In 1993, residents filed a pollution request against the government: it became one of the biggest waste scandals nationwide. After a long struggle, islanders won the case in 2000.
Today, museums and contemporary art attract many visitors who are encouraged to ride a bike :).Read more
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- Day 57
- Thursday, November 23, 2023 at 3:11 PM
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Altitude: 10 m
- Japan Lee Ufan Museum 34.448022, 133.98881334°26’53” N 133°59’20” E
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Happy Thanksgiving from Naoshima Island
November 23, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Naoshima Island offers a unique opportunity to see some of Japan’s best contemporary art in gorgeous natural settings.
Everybody loves the red & yellow pumpkins created by Yayoi Kusama.
Happy Thanksgiving to the two of you. Happy trails [Martha]
11/23/23Reply
TravelerThanks Martha. I hope you had a wonderful one too!
11/24/23Reply
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