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Chris DicksonChris Dickson
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traveled in 52 countries Read more Sydney, Australia
  • TravelerEurope 2023
    1
    Day 16

    Inverness

    September 23, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The weather was clear for the first time as we left Skye, casting a completely different light on the scenery, with the grass and heather gleaming with dew in the early morning sun.

    Not to worry, though, it soon got grey and windy, although the rain stayed away for our drive to Inverness.

    And what a drive! We decided to go the long way, via Applecross and Torridon, part of the heavily promoted North Coast 500 drive around the north of the country.

    Soon after we turned off the main road we encountered Bealach na Ba - the Pass of the Cattle - and, according to the sign, not recommended for learner drivers, trucks, caravans or slightly nervous people.

    The pass took the Skye concept of the single-lane road to a new level, with even narrower roads, steep climbs, hairpins and quite a few unfenced vertical drops. It was an astounding piece of road.

    Arriving in Inverness, along what was, by comparison, an airport runway, we took ourselves for a walk through the islands on the River Ness, the body of water through which Loch Ness drains into Moray Firth.

    Then, in the morning, we went monster hunting. Well, not exactly. We drove down to Drumnadrochit, where the Loch Ness Centre is located, in the former hotel where Mrs Aldie Mackay , the manager, reported seeing the monster when driving back from Inverness with her husband.

    The Loch Ness Centre is obviously keen to perpetuate the mystery of the monster, but does present some factual debunking as well, all done in quite an entertaining way.

    Then we took a cruise on Loch Ness, which is a quite amazing body of water with or without its rumoured giant, slimy inhabitant. We didn’t see a monster, but we did enjoy an hour or so cruising on the lake, down past the picturesque ruins of Urquhart Castle.

    Inverness itself is a very attractive town, and was buzzing on the Saturday night we were there, so much so that we had trouble finding somewhere to eat. It all worked out, though, but no one thought we would end up doing shots with four rather drunk thirty-something women. All part of the fun of travel, I guess.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    2
    Day 15

    The Isle of Skye

    September 22, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We travelled north from Glasgow and stopped for a look at Balloch, and the southern tip of Loch Lomond.

    Even in cold and rather threatening weather, it was still very attractive, with the imposing Ben Lomond rising into the most in the distance. There were very few people around, but, judging by the acres of car parking, it must be packed in summer.

    Then we spent the night just south of Fort William before catching the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale, on the south of the island.

    Actually, this glosses over an episode of incompetence by the boys in the party, who between them couldn’t get the **$$@&!! car into reverse gear! Calls to the rental company and a wait for roadside assistance - who then kindly showed us what to do and, more kindly, didn’t laugh out loud - meant our drinks at the local pub were well-earned.

    We arrived on Skye in the rain, and made our way to the Fairy Pools. Cascading blue and green pools, they say. Gushing, grey-brown water oozing out of every pore of the countryside is what we found, so damp was everything. It was still rather special, although the cold wind and sporadic showers of rain made it a bit uncomfortable.

    The following day we drove north-east to a series of fascinating landmarks, the countryside largely treeless and covered in heather and other low, hardy plants. Hills are steep, with numerous watercourses tumbling down their slopes. Each glimpse of the sea is another beautiful vista, even in the grey rain and mist.

    In between sojourns in the car, we piled out, rugged up, paid handsomely for parking and walked up to another landmark.

    The Old Man of Storr and The Quirang are basalt pinnacles towering over the surrounding area. Kilt Rock is a 105-metre ocean cliff and Mealt Falls drop straight off the edge of the island into the ocean.

    Then there’s Lealt Falls and the Fairy Glen, which was very picturesque, although there were no fairies about. There was quite an amount of fairy droppings on the ground, though, so we could tell they had been there.

    The driving between many of these locations was on single-lane roads, with passing places every fifty or hundred metres apart. It was a little nerve wracking, with oncoming traffic emerging from blind crests and curves, a little too much speed and plenty of oversized camper vans taking up space.

    Our final stop on Skye was Dunvegan Castle, quite nicely preserved and filled with stories of the local Lairds and assorted tenuous connections to royalty.

    That concluded a busy few days. We stayed in a very remote bed and breakfast, with wonderful sea views but certainly not walkable to anything except more hills, so are looking forward to finding a pub in Inverness in the next chapter.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    4
    Day 12

    Glasgow

    September 19, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We had a quick visit to Glasgow on the way north, and found some really good things to see.

    We walked the attractive Kelvingrove Park (admittedly in the rain), then caught the cute little Glasgow Subway - with carriages so small you wonder how all the people will fit - to the city centre.

    George Square, with statues of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert mounted in twin equestrian poses at one end, and a pantheon of famous Scots at the other, is a magnificent civic space.

    Just down the street was the Gallery of Modern Art, mostly famous because the Glasgwegians insist on keeping a traffic cone on the head of the statue of the Duke of Wellington that sits outside, a long-standing tradition.

    From there we went to the Clyde River, where we visited the Riverside Museum, full of interesting things (from locomotives to fashions and a lot in between) and interesting stories of the social impact of many of them.

    Outside the museum is the tall ship Glenlee, steel hulled and built on the Clyde in 1896.

    Our final stop - other than a few pints and a curry for dinner - was the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.

    Housed in a stunning building dating from 1900, we barely skimmed the collection. There were paintings by Rembrandt and Monet, to name just two diverse geniuses, along with Scottish masterpieces and installations galore.

    That was just the top floor. The eclectic collection on the ground floor included a hall full of life-sized stuffed animals apparently being strafed by a Spitfire hung from the ceiling.

    We felt like we packed a lot into our single day in Glasgow; after a well-earned rest we are now getting lost on the motorway system en route to the Isle of Skye.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 8

    Norwich

    September 15, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The good ship Stena Brittanica took us from Rotterdam to Harwich, and the train to Norwich, where we met up with the Brickwoods and spent three pleasant days.

    More specifically, we have been at Costessey (pronounced “Cossie”, naturally, just as Wymondham is pronounced “Wyndham”) at the home of Kim’s Aunt Sally - a lovely lady and a veritable octogenarian Energiser Bunny!

    We took a turn around the pleasant city of Norwich, through the fancy area around Elm Street, alongside the River Wensum, then back up past the 13th-century cathedral and the 11th-century castle.

    The following day we drove out to Wroxham and took a boat cruise onto the Norfolk Broads. This was a great day out!

    We cruised past the exclusive multi-million pound houses in the town, then down the River Bure to Wroxham Broad, and thence to Salhouse Broad, both of which are extensive lakes formed when the land flooded into areas from which peat had been dug. The bird life was plentiful and the broads a tranquil place but for the five hundred or so boats on the river that day.

    From Wroxham we drove out to Greater Yarmouth, and found a cold, windy, faded seaside destination with lots of children (and adults) high on junk food and not much parking (and, from what we saw, not much else).

    We also drove up and along the north coast, stopping first at Blickling Hall, a National Trust property.

    The current Jacobean building and its formal gardens were constructed in 1616 by Henry Hobart, an ancestor of the fellow for whom Hobart, Tasmania is named. The previous Tudor house was the birthplace of Anne Boleyn. Kim Brickwood’s dad worked on part of the restoration of the building before coming to Australia.

    But enough name dropping.

    The Long Room (37.5 metres, in fact) was a highlight, an indoor sports room in 1616 and a library of over 10,000 books by 1745.

    Cromer, on the north coast of Norfolk, was crowded even on a miserable, windy, rainy Sunday afternoon, with queues outside the fish-and-chip shops and even some intrepid souls playing mini-golf on the wind-swept cliftop.

    Finally, we popped into Wells-next-the-Sea, another picturesque coastal town. Much of the fleet was high and dry when we visited, though, so it probably should be called Wells-next-the-Mud-and-Sand.

    Next stop, Glasgow.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 4

    Rotterdam

    September 11, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Our two days in Rotterdam were spent seeing some marvellous, different sights and architecture.

    We travelled thirty minutes or so to The Hague, with its imposing Binnenhof (parliament) and streets of most elegant buildings.

    We also took a look into the Mauritshuis, the 17th-century home of the art-loving (and slave-trading) Prince John Maurice. Filled with Rembrandts, Vermeers, Reubens and the like, it was an impressive collection in a wonderful building. Still, you can only see so many “still life with banana” or “portrait of a nobleman” or “collection of nymphs and slightly chubby bare-breasted ladies” before it’s time to move on.

    The Peace Palace, built in 1913 and housing the International Court of Justice, was funded by the master-philanthropist Andrew Carnegie to the tune of $US50 million in today’s money.

    Back on the train, passing through typical green, canal-crossed, sheep- and cow-studded Dutch countryside, we returned to modern, quirky Rotterdam.

    We went to the Markthall, a futuristic giant blimp of a building, with market stalls inside and expensive apartments inside the walls.

    Then we walked down to the Cube Houses, a collection of strange-looking apartments, with hexagonal interior rooms that simply can’t fit regular furniture. Designed in 1977 by architect Piet Blom, they very much invite the question: why?

    This led us to the old port, a canal basin filled with old barges and ships that have mostly been converted to residences and was a pleasant and interesting contrast from the ultra-modern design of most of the city.

    For another change we ventured over to Delfshaven, another historic canal area that has retained some of its charm, and is reached by walking down a street containing kilometres of exactly identical apartments.

    In all, we had a great time in Rotterdam and surrounds. An easy ride on the Metro took us to Hoek van Holland and the ferry to Harwich and the next stage of our journey.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2023
    Day 3

    Frankfurt am Main

    September 10, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Thanks to the kindness of Vladimir Putin it took fourteen-and-a-half hours to fly to Frankfurt am Main from Tokyo, Russian and other Ukraine-affected airspace being off-limits. It was nice, though, to get glimpses of Alaska, Greenland and Iceland on the way.

    Truth be told, Frankfurt was never on our to-do list, seeing as now we don’t work for the European Central Bank or attend any trade shows. We just spent a few days here because that’s where the flight took us. Nevertheless, it does have some attractions.

    Neue Altstadt - the New Old Town (!!) - is a rather small area reconstructed out of what was left after the allies dropped their bombs in World War Two. It incorporates the Romer, a restored medieval building that has spent a mere 600 years or so as the city’s town hall. Small size notwithstanding, it’s quite an atmospheric area, nestled between the river and the upmarket shopping in Hauptwache.

    A short distance away is the Eiserner Bridge, pedestrians only (and covered in padlocks - it’s a wonder it hasn’t sunk into the river) and leading across the River Main to the Sachsenhausen area. We wandered through the narrow streets full of Apfelwein bars, the inevitable Irish pubs and a statue of Fraa Rauscher - a 19th-century alcoholic - that spits at its audience every minute or so.

    We also walked along the river past the museum quarter, with a number of worthwhile (but unattended by us) museums and galleries, and enjoyed the scenic river views, but not so much the stench of duck and swan shit.

    Finally, we took a cruise up and down the river. Possibly this was overreaching in terms of things to do, but it was interesting in some small way the see the docks, the power station and the metal-recycling plant.

    Next stop on our not-such-a-major-tourism-centre tour will be Rotterdam.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2022
    Day 44

    Porto Postscript

    October 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    After 14 incredible destinations our trip is coming to an end, and while it wouldn’t be true to say we saved the best for last, Porto is pretty darned good.

    We stayed in Bolhao, about twenty minutes walk up from the bank of the Douro River via a bunch of some very picturesque (but touristic) streets.

    The famous Portuguese azulejo tiles are everywhere - inside and outside churches, on shopfronts and apartment blocks. The bathroom in our apartment was lined with recycled tiles.

    The Sao Bento railway station is a famous tile-spotter’s location, with all four walls of the classic station building lined with tiles depicting great moments in Portuguese history and the people of different regions of the country. Not sure if there are any great moments in Portuguese railway history depicted.

    But it’s the River Douro that sets Porto apart, with the land on all sides sloping steeply down to the wide river, and a series of handsome arch bridges crossing the divide high up on the slopes.

    We walked across the Ponte Luis I, designed, unsurprisingly when you see it, by a protege of Gustav Eiffel, and had brilliant views up and down the river, with Rabelo Boats laden with tourists cruising up and down, and the names of famous Port Wine Houses littering the southern bank.

    At the southern end of the bridge is Jardim do Morro, a small garden with great views that late in the afternoon was full of people lounging around listening to the buskers and waiting for the sunset.

    We also visited the Palacio da Bolsa, a stately building dedicated not to a King or a Religion but which was in fact the Chamber of Commerce (a religion in itself, some would say). The rooms were increasingly handsome and interesting, from the office occupied by the aforementioned M. Eiffel during his several-year stay in Porto all the way to the so-called Arab Room, a fantastical banquet room now available to rent for functions at between 4,000 and 15,000 euros a night.

    For a break, on a rather wet day, we took the train a few hours west to Pinhao, deep in the Douro Valley. The train journey was spectacular, with the track hugging the bank of the river for the last hour of the trip. Then we took a Rabelo Boat a further fifteen kilometres upstream to the junction of the River Tua, admiring the magnificent countryside and the river flowing quite majestically through it.

    So, that’s our trip through the Iberian Peninsula done and dusted. With highlights too numerous to mention, easy transport, friendly people and good company (thank you, Brendan) it was just marvellous!

    Oh, and COVID?

    Well, luckily we didn’t catch it. We had to wear masks on public transport in Spain, and the public were almost universally compliant with this. Otherwise, apart from some fading arrows and spots on the floor, and hand sanitiser almost everywhere, it might never have happened.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2022
    Day 40

    Tomar Testimony

    October 17, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We caught the train about 400 kilometres north to Tomar watching the countryside change from flat and dry with lots of Cork Oaks, to greener and hillier with more intense agriculture.

    Cork growing must be the ultimate slow agriculture experience. Plant a cork tree. Wait 25 years. Get first harvest, which will not be up to scratch. Wait another 9 years for next harvest (which also may not be). Repeat.

    It is a most pleasant little town, hugging the banks of the River Nabao, with weirs regulating the water and parks for the inhabitants to enjoy themselves. Away from the river, the old town is very picturesque, although it was a little quiet when we wandered through - and stopped for a drink - on a Saturday afternoon.

    It also has the Convento de Cristo, a stone fortress towering above the town.

    Constructed from 1118 by the Knights Templar, it was controlled and improved by them (between fighting crusades and seeing off the Moors) until 1357, when the Order of Christ completed a “friendly takeover” initiated by Pope Clement I in 1312. The Order of Christ continued in occupation until the tourist industry demanded another historic site on top of a hill but with good bus parking.

    We walked up the hill, paid our 3 euros each (seniors discount; disappointingly they rarely seem to ask for proof of age) and wandered through cloister after cloister and room after room. It was an interesting few hours, and the round church was quite spectacular.

    The Festival of Iria, celebrating the virgin Saint Iria’s drowning and subsequent reappearance downriver in a marble tomb, took place the day we were in Tomar. We wandered around the crowded amusement park and market area, all set by the side of the river and full of happy, laughing Tomarites. We also made our way up the pedestrianised, cobbled main street of the old town, had a drink and thought about anywhere else we could remember going to where the shops were shut on a Sunday.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2022
    Day 38

    Lagos Listing

    October 15, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After the fun and vitality of Lisbon it was great to calm down for a few days on the Algarve to break up our trip.

     But first, we had to get here, via two crowded trains choc-a-bloc with confused people and suitcases that wouldn’t have seemed out of place on the Queen Mary. The second, local, train was standing room only, the aisles full of bodies and backpacks.

    As for Lagos, although (since it’s a part of Europe) it does have an incredible history - most infamously as one of the first slave-trading ports - we just enjoyed the warmth and the scenery. As Dennis Denuto so succinctly put it in “The Castle”, “It’s all about the vibe”. It’s probably one of the most photogenic places we have seen.

    Lagos is on the River Bensafrim, with a vast marina full of rich persons’ playthings and a whole industry devoted to marketing and providing all sorts of water-based tours, from kayaks to yachts, caving to dolphin-spotting.

    The old town area, winding up hill from the river, is a maze of cobblestones covered in bars and restaurants, with music playing and people eating and drinking at all hours of the day and night. Just wandering around is fun.

     Just west of the mouth of the river is Praia da Batata, the first of a series of beaches, some interconnected through arches and tunnels in the sandstone cliffs, that stretches a few kilometres out to the headland at Ponta da Piedade. The scenery is stunning, with the golden sandstone cliffs and ridges, the almost-empty beaches and the clear blue of the sea making for a postcard view at every turn.

    For a few relaxing days Lagos is hard to beat, and even though we successfully avoided all history and culture (true to form, some might say), we’re still leaving with some great memories.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope 2022
    Day 35

    Lisbon Letter (2)

    October 12, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    As well as having fun in Alfama, choosing badly in restaurants and eating too many custard tarts, we made a couple of day trips.

    Firstly, Evora, a couple of hours away by train, and probably most famous for the Capela dos Ossos, part of the Church of St Francis. Faced with a dearth of interior design ideas, and having 5,000 exhumed bodies on hand, the entrepreneurial Franciscan monks thought that lining the walls of the chapel would be a good use for all those hard-to-store bones.

    It was strangely aesthetic rather than gruesome, although the building trade are unlikely to offer it to would-be buyers anytime soon. Still, for DIY…

    There was also a museum displaying, among other things, a part of the monastery’s collection of over 2,000 nativity scenes, some of which were magnificent pieces of craftsmanship and others just plain weird.

    Evora also has a Roman connection, and we took a walk past the ruins of the Temple of Evora, another part of the town’s UNESCO heritage.

    We also visited Sintra, set in a lush, beautiful bunch of hills just northeast of the city.

    Joining a surging mass of tourists, we queued up for our turn in the Pena Palace, a fantastical faux fortress built in 1838, by then King Consort Ferdinand II (although it was on the site of a ruined fortress that had existed since the Middle Ages). It had spectacular views of the surrounding countryside (at least, after the fog lifted) and the clambering around the ramparts was fun, but we had to sort of flow through the interiors along with the rest of the sea of visitors and didn’t really get a chance to savour the experience.

    More interesting in some ways was the National Palace, in Sintra township itself. With heritage dating back to the Moors and additions made, mainly in the 15th and 16th centuries, by a succession of kings and queens, it was a quite fascinating look at the way the royal court lived and interacted with the rest of us.

    The National Palace also has a pair of very distinctive tall, white towers and we pondered over their use until, at the end of the tour, in the kitchen, we found out that they were the chimneys!

    Our time in Lisbon has now come to an end, almost as soon as we had mastered the metro, taken the tram and learnt the labyrinth of the local area. We are off to the Algarve tomorrow for - hopefully - some time in the sun.    Read more

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