Colombia
Charalá

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    • Day 192

      Social distancing

      March 17, 2020 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      In the morning, Ishan left our hostel apartment, as he decided to cancel his trip and go home to Australia. So now it's only us and Andrés in the house. Andrés is Colombian and usually works in the hostel. During the closure, he can't work there, but prefers staying as the conditions are way better than in his home.
      After breakfast, we decided to do social distancing in the mountains and went for a bike ride on a remote road to Charalá. The route went passed Fonce River and was really beautiful. We passed a waterfall and spent some time on the central square eating icecream.
      On the way back, we wanted to check out if the Indian Cave is still open. In order to get there, we took a back road which was dirt. But hey - we have time and no luggage, so let's try! Climbing was really hard and I sometimes had to push some metres, even though we lowered the air pressure. But the landscape was awesome and there was absolutely no one else on the road.
      In Paramó where the cave is located we first stopped at the church. Then we went to the entrance of the cave. Unfortunately, noone was around. Looks like everything is closed to the lack of tourists. So we just went back to San Gil, did some grocery shopping and cooked dinner.
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    • Day 11

      La cascada de Juan Curí

      October 2, 2019 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Auf die Empfehlung des Hostelbesitzers hin, machten wir uns heute auf den Weg zu einem nahegelegenen Wasserfall. Da wir uns nicht verausgaben wollten, sollte eine Wanderung von 20min völlig in Ordnung sein. Blattschneiderameisen, Vogelgezwitscher, bunte Schmetterlinge und eine tolle Aussicht versüßten uns den Weg. Der Wasserfall stellte schließlich unsere Balance- und Kletterkünste auf die Probe und bot einen herrlichen Anblick. Auf dem Rückweg entdeckten wir einen weiteren, steileren Weg, um noch etwas höher zum Wasserfall zu gelangen. Natürlich ließen wir ihn nicht aus und wurden schließlich mit einem schönen Ausblick belohnt. Der Regen ließ leider nicht lange auf sich warten, sodass der Rückweg einer Schlitterpartie glich. Völlig durchnässt kamen wir wieder in San Gil an. Schnell getrocknet von der Sonne kauften wir noch viel Obst und frische Zutaten für Nudeln mit Tomatensoße, die wir uns anschließend zubereiteten und genossen.
      Zum Nachtisch durfte jede von uns noch eine geröstete Ameise probieren, die hier als Delikatesse gelten. Der Hostelbesitzer meint es echt gut mit uns. ;)
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    • Day 23

      Cascades, capybara et explosions

      March 7, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

      On commence la journée avec ce petit déjeuner fait maison à base d'avocats, mangue et pitaya.
      Pour 2€50, on a un cocktail de vitamines explosif, et qui plus est très bon.

      On prend ensuite le bus pour le parc naturel Juan Curi, à 30 minutes de San Gil.
      On discute avec un couple de Vendéens avec qui on passera le reste de la journée. La ballade pour rejoindre les cascades commence tranquillement avec une petite présentation des lieux par des guides, qui nous interdisent de partir sans guide, alors qu'on ne nous avait jamais mentionné ça.
      On apprend que cette demande ne tient que parce que des policiers sont en train de boire le café et jouer au jenga sur la table à côté de nous... Et que les guides sont censés être obligatoires sur cette portion de ballade.
      On part donc avec notre guide Freddy, et heureusement qu'il est avec nous ! Car il n'était pas clair qu'il fallait complètement mettre les pieds dans l'eau pour traverser !
      On traverse donc plusieurs fois ce cours d'eau, avec quand même un peu de courant, pour arriver à une cascade, puis une autre, puis enfin la principale cascade, où on se jette à l'eau. Spectacle saisissant et .. vivifiant !
      On échange un peu d'informations avec le guide, et on part vite avant l'énorme averse qui arrive.

      ------
      Petite anecdote, sur la sécurité des lieux. Aucun lieu public en France n'aurait laissé des touristes faire ce qu'on a fait, ça glisse, y a du courant, et des risques de crues importantes... Notre guide nous a d'ailleurs envoyé une vidéo de la cascade et du ruisseau 30 minutes après notre départ. La petite rivière s'est transformée en torrent de boue, et la cascade en jeyser.
      Mais clairement, qu'est ce que ça valait le coup ! Une des meilleures expériences pour le moment !!
      ---------

      On rentre ensuite sur San Gil où on mange un "corriente", menu anciennement dédié à la classe ouvrière pour un prix très correct, mais toujours en vogue en Colombie. Et c'était excellent.

      S'en suit une petite ballade digestive au parc botanique de la ville, où l'on croise nombre d'arbres et plantes, quelques écureuils et des ... Capybaras ! Sorte de castor, mais sans queue. Pas de photo malheureusement car nos rencontres ont été courtes et les Capybaras ont vite pris la fuite.
      On croise aussi un magnifique perroquet bleu, mais il a l'air bien trop sage et habitué aux touristes....

      On dit au-revoir à nos amis vendéens, et rentrons à l'hostel pour participer à un jeu avec d'autres clients.

      Et ce jeu s'appelle le tejo, jeu traditionnel et officiel de Colombie.
      En version courte : on se place à 18 mètres d'un plateau incliné en glaise. Et l'objectif et d'envoyer un palais de 2 kg sur des petits sacs de poudre à canon (oui oui oui) qui vont exploser à l'impact.
      Une pétanque (ou une longue, vu la distance) à l' hollywoodienne.
      Étant débutant, on se contentera de jouer à 8m, et c'est déjà pas fameux.

      On rentre prendre quelques bières avec d'autres clients néerlandais, et clap de fin sur cette belle et longue journée !
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    • Day 144

      Birds at the park entrance

      February 20, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

      There were quite a bit of variety of birds near the entrance. We saw turkey, peacock, geese, hen and chicken just roaming around in the green lawns. It was almost 2 pm and we were hungry. There was a restaurant (La Parrill de Juan Curi) near the entrance and we decided to have our lunch here. The place was packed with kids from a school when we reached there. They had come on an excursion to the waterfalls and were having lunch at the restaurant. It took them quite a while to take our order but we managed to finish our lunch by around 2:40 pm. After that we went outside the park entrance to wait for a bus to get us back to San Gil.Read more

    • Day 144

      To Barichara

      February 20, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      By the time we were done and reached the road outside to wait for the bus, it was almost 3 pm. It was extremely hot in the sun and for the next 30 min, no buses came. Finally around 3:25 pm, a mini bus came. It was packed with people, but we managed to squeeze us inside. The bus reached San Gil around 4 pm.
      The plan had been to get off at the local bus terminal and then immediately catch the bus going towards the Barichara village, but the bus was going towards Bogota and dropped us outside the town. We had to walk about 3 kms to the local terminal. The bus to Barichara was just leaving the terminal when we reached there. We managed to catch it and reached Barichara around 4:45 pm.
      Barichara is known as the prettiest town in Colombia. Its a compact little hillside town on a plateau with all whitewashed houses, cobbled streets and red-tiled roofs. A National Monument dating all the way back to the Spanish conquest, with some of the most perfectly preserved and beautiful architecture in the Americas.
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    • Day 144

      Top of the Juan Curi Waterfalls

      February 20, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      At the top of the waterfalls, we realized that the stream water falls way beyond and higher up in multiple cascades before reaching where we were and the final waterfall where we were supposed to do the abseiling was still below our level. While we waited for the group before us to do their abseiling, we took the opportunity to splash around in the stream to cool down.Read more

    • Day 366

      Cascadas de Juan Curi

      December 5, 2021 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Zurück in San Gil haben wir noch ein Ziel auf der To-do-Liste. Etwas südlich von San Gil liegen die Wasserfälle Juan Curi, die wir uns natürlich nicht entgehen lassen wollen. Sie sind relativ leicht mit dem Bus zu erreichen, also starten wir den kleinen Ausflug direkt am Morgen, damit wir gehen Mittag weiter nach Barichara fahren können.

      Der Wasserfall ist wirklich sehenswert, allerdings sind enorm viele Touristen vor Ort. Es stehen 3 Reisebusse auf dem Parkplatz und der Wasserfall selbst ist auch recht überlaufen. Da zudem ein kalter Wind geht und es schattig am Wasserfall ist, entscheiden wir uns gegen ein Bad im kalten Wasser.
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    • Day 144

      Abseiling down the Juan Curi waterfalls

      February 20, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Around 12:30 pm, we started with our turn. The other 2 people who had to join us didn't, so the guide decided to start with us. First down was Hristo. He was given a 20 sec instruction on what to do with each hand and then asked to go. This was a surprise to us since the German group before us had a full 10 min instruction. We were wondering what else they were told in those 10 min. Hristo tried going down and quickly figured out he didn't need to know anything more.
      Next up was Maria. As soon as the guide called out her name, she panicked and told me to go before her. I knew if I went she wouldn't come so I tried to calm her down. She started removing her harnesses and told us that she's going to trek down and will meet us below. The guide saw this and asked her to come over and have a look, that it was nothing to be scared of. He took her to the edge and showed Hristo going down and that the climb down was all along the waterfall. She calmed down and got ready to go down. Once on the edge, the fear disappeared and Maria was quite comfortable leaving her hands for some amazing pictures.
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    • Day 144

      Down the falls

      February 20, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      After Maria, it was my turn to go. I had done abseiling twice before so I was quite comfortable going down. The one thing I had never done before was going down along a waterfall. It was a beautiful experience with the water falling all over in the heat and humidity of the day. It was a very refreshing experience. The waterfalls were in 2 stages and a section of the falls are quite a bit far from the cliff wall where we didn't have any foot support. That was also a totally new experience. Hristo had been waiting here for Maria to come down so they could go down together but the helper below called out him to come down to prevent the ropes from crossing each other. As soon as Hristo left, Maria panicked again. I was about to reach that section when I heard her call out that she can't come down, that she's stuck. I could hear the panic in her voice so I tried calling her to calm her. But, by the time I reached there, she had found her courage and had already started going down. It was the sudden lack of a foothold that had caused the panic but she recovered quite quickly and was on her way down.Read more

    • Day 144

      At the base of the falls

      February 20, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Once all the 3 of us had safely reached the base of the waterfalls, the crew helping us packed up their equipment and left. We had planned to go for a swim in the pool at the base of the falls. Hristo was first in and realized that the pool was quite deep with hardly any footing to come back out and that the water was quite cold to have a swim in. He was out within a few minutes and I dropped the idea of going in.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Charalá, Charala

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