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Amsterdam and Italy
  • Diane and Darryl
Mar – Apr 2023

Amsterdam and Italy

A 28-day adventure by Diane Read more
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  • Trip start
    March 31, 2023
    Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Typical Amsterdam street
    Say cheese!Buildings sit on pilings driven into a layer of compacted sandMural room in the canal house museumUnderground (and underwater!) bike parkingCentral train stationRijsttafel dinner (translates to "rice table")

    Arriving in Amsterdam

    March 31, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    We are visiting our Berkeley friends, Mike and Teresa, who have been living in Amsterdam for nearly a year (with forays in and out of the Netherlands to maintain their visa status). To keep us awake after our transatlantic journey, we all took a walk from their apartment to various parts of the city.

    It was a rainy and cool day, but the city is so charming, with the canals, the numerous bicycle riders, and the unique architecture, we didn’t mind the weather so much. Our goal was to visit the Canal House museum, which tells the story of how Amsterdam gradually grew as it reclaimed land from the peat bogs and the sea starting some 1,000 years ago. The museum was built in 1665, commissioned by a Dutch merchant for his home along one of the main canals.

    Further walking took us to a houseboat museum (there are around 2,500 houseboats in Amsterdam, but if you want to live in one, you need to find one someone is vacating—no more mooring permits are being issued).

    We also checked out the huge new bicycle parking garage built under the water at the Amsterdam train station, which just opened this February. It can store nearly 7,000 bicycles!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Morning market shopping
    Beautiful breadsCoffee beansWalking the cityA small portion of the Holocaust Names Monument ("Annelies Frank")"Never Again Auschwitz" memorialPlaques outside the former homes of individuals who perished in the HolocaustTwo flights to get to Mike & Teresa's apartmentIn the neighborhoodMany doorways have decorative tiles

    Morning Market and the Dutch Resistance

    April 1, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    We started the day at a great Saturday market near Mike and Teresa’s apartment—cheese, bread, fish, meat, nuts, pies, wine—everything you could need for a nice meal!

    Teresa took us to the Dutch Resistance Museum, where we spent several hours learning about the history of the Nazi occupation of The Netherlands. As the name suggests, the focus of the museum was on the people who worked to undermine the Nazi efforts at deportation of Jews, Romanis and homosexuals and later on, even removal of non-Jewish working-age Dutch people to labor camps. The museum was started by former resistance members and tells not only the history of the resistance to the German occupation of The Netherlands but also about the lives of 100 individuals from the time—some Jewish, some Nazi, some Dutch traitors/Nazi collaborators and many resistance members.

    The museum also offers a self-guided audio walking tour to 20+ sites in the area that were significant in that time: the nursery where young children were kept after their parents were sent to work camps (or worse), and where Dutch volunteers smuggled many children out of Amsterdam to safety; the Holocaust Names memorial—dedicated to the over 102,000 Dutch victims of the Holocaust without a grave; even the zoo, where some Jews were hidden, and though food was exceedingly scarce, the zookeeper managed to continue feeding the animals (and some of the refugees).

    We soldiered on through the continuous misty rain and chill, because, well, we’re here to experience the city. We came back to the Olsons’ cozy warm apartment (did I mention the 2 flights of STEEP stairs in this old canal house?). In their bright and spacious kitchen we heated up the mini chicken and veggie pies we’d picked up at the morning market for our dinner.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Delft pottery at the Royal Delft factory
    Tile "paintings" were also created at Royal DelftExamples of architectural ceramics at Royal DelftMolds and pieces ready to paintWatching a painter workTapestry delftware look-alike in the gift shopScenes in the town of DelftAlong the Delft canalsIn one of Delft's churchesLunch in the sun!Like Venice--water nearly up to the doorwaysClock tower of Delft's "old church" (1246)Delft City Hall and town squareOur first windmill! Still grinding grainTrash pickup day on our street

    A Day in Delft

    April 2, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Sunshine today! This was a good day to get out of town to visit Delft, about an hour south of Amsterdam by train. We started with a self-guided tour of the Royal Delft factory, one of the last remaining in Delft and nearly 400 years old.

    “Delft Blue” is decorated with cobalt oxide, which paints on as black but oxidizes to blue upon firing. Becoming a master painter at Royal Delft involves an eight year training process.

    The town of Delft, a university town, is quaint and lively. Of course there are canals, and plenty of outdoor dining spaces (sporting much-appreciated blankets draped over the chairs!).

    We even got to see our first Dutch windmill. Although it was closed on Sunday, it is a working grain/flour mill that dates back to the late 1600s (although it has been rebuilt over the years).    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    A street artist at work in the STRAAT
    Inside the STRAAT museumA hanging truck!View from the ferry across the river IJ to the STRAATWhite building is a film museumVondelparkHouses overlooking VondelparkVondelparkWild parrots at VondelparkHerons and their nestsCanal housesHouseboats

    Vondelpark, Street Art & Anne Frank

    April 3, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Just a couple blocks from Mike & Teresa’s apartment is Vondelpark, like a small Golden Gate Park, with lakes (of course—no shortage of water!), separate bike and walking paths, an open-air theatre, playgrounds and a couple of cafes. Large homes border one side of the park, and we caught sight of the resident wild parrots and nesting herons (big nests!). Daffodils are blooming and the trees are sprouting new leaves.

    From this bucolic setting, we moved on to The STRAAT street art museum—an easy tram-and-ferry trip from our home away from home. M&T have a membership to this museum, and love to share it with visitors. A former ship-building warehouse provides space for large-format works of street art and the artists who create them. We’re talking graffiti (a bit ), but so, so much more. See the photos, because words just can’t describe it. For example, President Obama’s “Hope” poster falls into the category of many of these paintings.

    Finally, the two of us switched gears again to get to our 5pm entry for the much-in-demand Anne Frank house. This museum is on the site of the building where she and her family, along with four others, hid from the Nazis for two years until they were arrested and sent to concentration camps. They had non-Jewish friends who helped bring them food and news. It’s a sad story, as we all know. It was interesting seeing the place where they stayed, which was sort of like a very small apartment, not a closet or basement as we envisioned. The self-guided audio tour was very well done, incorporating many of Anne Frank’s words from her diary and emphasizing that there are many, many stories like Anne Frank’s.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    The Rijksmuseum, national museum of the Netherlands
    Longstanding pedestrian & cycle path through the museumChecking the time before entering (changes every minute!)Vermeer's idealized scene of Delft (part of the town had been destroyed by a gunpowder explosion)The Geographer, one of Vermeer's few works in which a man is the main subjectGirl With The Red HatThe Night Watch, Rembrandt's largest paintingA robot is monitoring the re-tensioning of the canvasThe Rijksmuseum's art-history libraryLight sculpture 'ballet' at the RijksmuseumOne of two temple guardians, c. 1300-1400Dollhouse from the late 1600sOut on bikes on perfectly maintained pathsVillage of SlotenThe Sloten Windmill (Molen van Sloten)

    Vermeer at the Rijksmuseum & a Bike Ride

    April 4, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Today was the day we’d been planning for half a year. Teresa had bought tickets for the Johannes Vermeer exhibit back in September. This widely publicized show is at the Rijksmuseum, the national museum of the Netherlands. We’d read articles and watched videos and documentaries to learn about Vermeer and about the 150-year-old museum itself. A documentary from our Berkeley library chronicles the 10-year, over-budget renovation of the museum from 2003 to 2013. A significant reason for the delayed re-opening was due to a controversy over whether the bike and pedestrian path under the museum would remain open. At one point the museum director remarked, “I am more busy with cyclists than with Rembrandt.”

    Now, back to 2023. The exhibition was billed as the largest ever collection of Vermeer paintings in one show. Through a series of international loans, the museum is exhibiting around 27 of the 37 known paintings. All we can say is it lived up to the hype. We’re glad we got an initial orientation to ALL of his known paintings (in prints) at the museum in Delft, two days earlier. It gave us a chance to study some of our favorites and identify features pointed out at Delft.

    Amsterdam native Rembrandt, is also heavily featured in the Rijksmuseum, and we saw some wonderful works of his, along with other Dutch Masters’ works. There are also two impeccably decorated doll’s houses, using authentic materials and precise proportions.

    After all that culture, we decided to take advantage of another sunny (and slightly less cool) day and rent bikes for the afternoon. M & T have their own bikes, of course. In about 10 minutes we were out of the city and riding in the Amsterdamse Bos (forest/woods), which is really a large park with great bike paths and many recreational activities, including a little farm. After a couple of hours we arrived at Molen van Sloten, a working drainage windmill, and we happened to be just in time for a really informative tour. Many parts of the Netherlands are below sea level (including the international airport, at 6 meters below!), so windmills are still used to pump water out of the buildable land area and out to the sea by way of canals. Our guide, Olaf, was one of the operators of the windmill.

    On the bike ride home, during the commute hours, we got to live like the locals and dodge trucks parked in the bike lanes, pedestrians, mass quantities of cyclists and cars trying to use the bike lanes as traffic work-arounds. We handled it with aplomb!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    At Keukenhof Gardens
    Flower fields at Keukenhof GardensFront side of the street organ playing at the gardensOrgan music booksBack side of the street organ--note perforated music bookReally interesting architecture in Amsterdam (scene from our walk to the bus)Walking through Beatrix Park to the busCars, bikes and pedestrians, all with their own lanesBeatrix Park

    Keukenhof Gardens

    April 5, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    The two of us traveled by bus to one of the world's largest flower gardens, during nearly prime season for flowering bulbs—daffodils, tulips, crocus, fragrant hyacinths and more. The gardens are huge, and laid out with winding pathways and attractive lakes and streams. At this time, the cherry trees and forsythia bushes were adding to the spectacle.

    The street organ in the video and photos was built in 1978 from old organ parts. It is named after an old windmill from Haarlem (“The Adriaen”). The organ plays on the perforated book system that was Invented in 1897. They played typical calliope music, Glen Miller tunes, and hits from Beyoncé and Coldplay (!).    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Visit to the Van Gogh Museum
    During his Japanese art influenced periodRepresenting pillow fights with the Almond Blossom painting in potential peril!Roger Waters concert at the Amsterdam Ziggo DomeLots of visuals, note the flying pig

    Van Gogh and a Rock Concert

    April 6, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    There are a few museums in Amsterdam that you absolutely must have advance tickets for—the Anne Frank House, the Vermeer exhibit at the Rijksmuseum (sold out now), and the Van Gogh Museum. Luckily, we planned ahead.

    Van Gogh produced around 900 paintings over only 10 years. The museum contains the largest collection of his paintings, drawings, prints and letters. It also displays a collection of art that Vincent and his brother Theo assembled together, consisting of works by contemporaries like Gauguin, Picasso, Manet, Toulouse-Lautrec, and many more.

    One sort of funny story is that Vincent painted the Almond Blossoms as a gift for his newborn nephew (who would later go on to spearhead the construction of a dedicated Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam). In the audio tour, the nephew talked about how he and his two brothers would have pillow fights in their bedroom, where the Almond Blossoms painting hung. It came through unscathed!

    Because of all of the letters the brothers exchanged, the audio tour contained many quotes from Vincent about his art, which really is so much better than art curators surmising what the significance of an art work is.

    MIke and Teresa’s apartment is conveniently located within a short walking or tram-ride distance to all of the museums we’ve visited. It was also convenient for us to travel to the concert venue where we saw a concert by former Pink Floyd co-lead Roger Waters. Lots of video imagery and a very creative center stage setting in the Amsterdam Ziggo Dome.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    On a canal boat, old mint (tower) in background
    Canal boat cruiseView of 7 bridgesCrooked houses (piles are decaying)15,000 bikes are pulled out of the canals each yearPancake cafe in a working carouselDutch pancakesWarming up at the Art Deco Cafe AmericanMake your own hot chocolate at the cafeIn the Art Deco Cafe AmericanWarehouse (date at top: 1606)Wealthy (Dutch East Indies?) merchant's homeQueen Juliana, around 1970sSmall plate item at the Secret Garden restaurantAt the Secret Garden restaurant

    Canal Cruise, Dutch Pancakes & A Queen

    April 7, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    For our last full day in Amsterdam, we worked on checking off the last of our touristy things to do. Mike and Teresa took us to one of their favorite Dutch pancake cafes. They come sweet and savory, so we tried each!

    Next, we took a small, open-air canal boat tour. The skipper was from Amsterdam and the mate was a university student from Spain studying at the Free School in Amsterdam (doesn’t mean free tuition). They both shared a lot of information about the old city and the canals. For example: Amsterdam has around 1.4 million bikes, which amounts to about 1.6 bikes per person; every year, 15,000 bikes are pulled out of the canals (and a number of cars too); some of the large canal houses sell for close to 40 million Euros (!).

    Later, the two of us walked to Dam Square, which dates back to the earliest days of the city’s founding (13th century). Located at the square is the Royal Palace (closed to visitors this week) and the Nieuwe Kerk (new church—15th century). The church is now a museum, which is presenting an exhibit about Queen Juliana, who reigned from 1948–80. That is probably not a typical touristy thing to do, but we learned a lot about this very progressive and down-to-earth Dutch ruler, who is the grandmother of the current king—Willem-Alexander.

    Finally, we had a special dinner at The Secret Garden, the site of the former Rosa’s Kitchen, where Mike was a cook in the 1980s. The restaurant features Peruvian-Japanese small plate dishes, which were beautifully presented!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Hook for hauling furniture to the upper floor apartments
    Typical Amsterdam bike--few-to-no gears neededInside M&T's apartmentInside M&T's apartmentOne last trip to the Saturday market cheese stallFunny "boatel"More interesting architecture (boot or boat?)

    Farewell Amsterdam, Buon Giorno Naples

    April 8, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    We flew from Amsterdam to Naples today, and to our minds, the cities couldn’t be more different. We had such a great time with Mike & Teresa, living temporarily in their neighborhood, with local markets, bakeries and cheese shops. Now we’re in the heart of the bustling downtown area of Naples. It’s like staying on Market Street of San Francisco—except without the homeless, and here the buildings are older, the traffic is noisier, and the shops are a bit more upscale.

    Still, it’s a good launching point for for trips to the archaeological sites of Pompeii and others we’re planning on visiting.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Vesuvius looming over ancient and modern-day Herculaneum
    A niche in the home for worshiping gods to protect the homeA wine and oil distributor's shopAn ancient Roman snack bar (these held hot food and drinks for serving)Mosaic floor in the public bathsOverlooking Herculaneum, Med. Sea in backgroundRainwater cachement systemPlaster casts of where skeletons were found near the (former) beachCookware from Herculaneum at the museumThe right and left show where to put your thumbSuoer-heated glasswareOther glassware survivedIn the museum, probably from Pompeii

    Herculaneum, Forever in 79 AD

    April 9, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Herculaneum is an archaeological site located south of Naples—about 20 minutes by train, and about halfway between the city and Pompeii.

    When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, it covered Herculaneum in as much as 75 feet of ash (roughly 5 times the amount of ash as Pompeii). This essentially vacuum-sealed Herculaneum, whose building interiors were much better preserved than in Pompeii.

    Vibrantly colored frescoes, mosaics and marble reliefs are preserved in place, though clearly damaged. A great deal of papyrus records of daily life survived the catastrophe, allowing us to know such details as the price of services at the bath/spa, menu items, residence and business ownership and so on.

    The audio guide was excellent, and it was wonderful to be able to walk freely among these ancient ruins.

    Back in Naples in the late afternoon, a trip to the National Archeological Museum allowed us to see many household artifacts that were not on site in Herculaneum, as well as building decorations (mosaics, frescoes, etc.) that had been removed from Pompeii.

    We almost didn’t make it back to Naples in time for the museum because the trains were either on strike for a few hours, or just closed temporarily for the Easter holiday. We heard both stories. But an enterprising bus company that usually takes people to see Vesuvius, told the assembled, forlorn crowd that they would take us back to Naples for €5 per person. Once in Naples, we couldn’t get a metro to the museum for the same reason (or some other), but at least the taxis weren’t on strike at the same time.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Temple to Apollo, Pompeii
    Stone "crosswalks" in the road to avoid stepping in sewageBakery with grinding millHall of Justice

    Ancient City of Pompeii

    April 10, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Pompeii is the more well-known site of the devastating 79 AD Vesuvius eruption. The excavated portion of Pompeii is ten times larger than that of Herculaneum. Some 2.5 million tourists visit it each year, and maybe the Easter Monday holiday wasn’t the best time to visit.

    Because a number of areas are still under active excavation, we were less free to walk around the site than we were at Herculaneum. Many wall and floor decorations had been removed (to the museum) by previous excavators. But the ornate columns and friezes above gave us a good sense of this once prosperous city and its dwellings.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Sorrento
    Lots of lemons in SorrentoView of Sorrento from the ferry pierVesuvius, seen from the ferry leaving SorrentoCastel Nuovo in NaplesTypical Naples street (celebrating their soccer championship)

    Spontaneously in Sorrento

    April 11, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We didn’t pay careful attention to the train schedule and found we would have to wait quite a while to get to Paestum, where we were planning to see some Greek ruins. Instead, we hopped on a train to the seaside town of Sorrento. It’s an interesting mix of tourists and fashion enthusiasts. We sat on a bench near what we supposed was an exclusive hotel overlooking the sea. We watched guests arriving in Mercedes and BMWs (not driving themselves, of course), and being greeted like celebrities (maybe they were!). We strolled the cliff edge overlooking the sea, and wandered narrow streets. The place is jam-packed with small lemon groves—like the size of our backyard, but everyone had them. Of course we had to try a lemonade or two from a street vendor.

    It was a beautiful sunny day for our outing. Even better, we found that the ferry could get us back to Naples in less time and with more comfort than the train. The view of Vesuvius from out on the water shows just how much of the top has been blown off (probably not just from the eruption that destroyed Pompeii and Herculaneum in the 1st century).    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Sculpture in Sansevero Chapel
    Veiled ChristRoman market undergroundPart of a tavernExploring underground

    Naples: Marble and Markets

    April 12, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We had the morning to explore a bit of Naples before our train to Florence. There was a marble sculpture we’d read was worth visiting—"Veiled Christ" at Cappella Sansevero. This chapel isn’t very old and is more of a museum. It was built in the mid-1700s by the Prince of Sansevero. He was an inventor, patron of the arts and first Grand Master of Neapolitan Freemasonry. He commissioned various artists to produce marble sculptures and works of art to decorate his chapel. Many of these pieces show incredible detail. We weren’t allowed to take photos, but are sharing some from the website.

    Besides the gossamer veil over the body of Christ, we were especially impressed by the statue representing “Disillusion,” one of the ten “virtues,” or more like stages along an arduous pathway towards knowledge and perfection. The rope net binding the figure was so delicate that the stonemason’s assistants refused to file/sand them for fear of breaking it. So the artist had to do it all himself.

    Another thing we did before leaving was to go to a Roman market that had been excavated beneath a present-day cathedral. An eruption of Mt. Vesuvius around 400 AD buried the site in “mud,” formed by steam and ash.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    View of Ponte Vecchio (and more bridges) from Uffuzi Gallery
    Painting by RafaelCeiling in the UffiziIn the Piazza della RepublicaBike ride in the hills above FlorenceVilla GamberaiaVilla GamberaiaOutskirts of FlorenceJewelry shops on the Ponte VecchioJewelry shops at night on the Ponte VecchioFlorence at nightView from Ponte Vecchio

    Florence: Uffuzi Gallery and a Bike Ride

    April 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    A three-hour train ride yesterday brought us to Florence from Naples. Our first stop today was to the Uffuzi Gallery, which houses works of art from the Italian Renaissance period. The building began as administrative offices for the ruling Medici family dating from the 16th century. The top floor of the museum also has some wonderful views out over the city.

    We continued with the theme of views by renting e-bikes to get out of the city and into the hills above town. It was a bit tense getting out of Florence by bike—narrow roads and a fair amount of traffic, but there were some protected bike lanes, and eventually we got into quiet country roads.

    Our ride took us past Villa Gamberaia, which Erin visited during her Rome study abroad. Her drawing of the site hangs in Diane’s parents’ home. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to go in and visit, but the grounds from the very small lane were very scenic!

    Florence is a nice change from Naples—cleaner streets and fewer honking cars and motorcycles. Our apartment is just about on the Arno River, and a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio—the oldest bridge in Florence. The bridge is lined with old wooden jewelry shops, still in operation.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    View of the Duomo cathedral from the bell tower
    In the bell towerDuomo cathedralDuomo complex with bell towerThe Gates of Paradise --the main gate of the Baptistry of FlorenceAstrolabe at the Museo GalileoSantucci's armillary sphere, the largest in the worldTelescopes made for the aristocracy in the RenaissanceIn the royal apartments of the Pitti PalaceBoboli GardensView from Boboli GardensBoboli GardensMedici Grotto at Boboli Gardens

    Florence: Bell Tower and Boboli Gardens

    April 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We started the day by climbing 414 steps to the top of “Giotto’s Bell Tower” (in the final 100 steps we got very friendly with other visitors!). The colored marble tower was begun in 1334, paused for two years between 1348 and 1350 because of the Black Plague, and finally completed in 1359. The views from the top made the climb worthwhile!

    We kept checking on the lines to visit the cathedral, but they just weren’t moving, so we had to skip it.

    Darryl visited the Galileo Museum while Diane rested from a bit of a cold. It contained a collection of scientific instruments that the Medici family had collected. Galileo did not invent the telescope, but he made big improvements on it and made 50 of them before he sold the design to a local merchant. The museum has an example of his telescope there.

    Later that day, we visited the Pitti Palace, which dates from 1458 and was built for Luca Pitti a powerful banker. The palace was bought by the Medici family in 1549 and became their chief residence during their rule of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. We visited the royal apartments (even the “anterooms” were lavishly decorated. The Boboli Gardens are on the palace grounds, and afford beautiful views over Florence.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    On our way, high above Florence
    Tuscan countrysideHerb garden for flavoring spirits at a monasteryAt lunch--cheese and honey4 preparations of meats3 kinds of crostiniRooster symbol of ChiantiFrederica explaining the Chianti aging process in concreteAmerigo Vespucci's homeMontefioralleView along the rideArriving at our villa in the Chianti region1Day 1 Ride

    Cycling through Chianti country, Day 1

    April 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We arranged a two-day e-biking trip from Florence to Siena with “We Like Tuscany,” who provided a private guide and moved our luggage for us.

    Our guide, Frederica, has dual Canadian-Italian citizenship, and had spent the last three (COVID) years in Canada, so her English was excellent. She lives north of Florence (the hill town of Fiesole, which we e-biked to a couple of days ago). She is so knowledgeable about the Chianti Classico wine and olive oil production, and clearly passionate about the history of her region of Tuscany. She is taking sommelier classes, just to broaden her knowledge for guiding and whatever else may come along. We were pleasantly surprised to get such great information all along our ride, as we thought we were getting a bike route guide only.

    Our 30-mile first day took us above the city of Florence and onto small country roads through olive groves, vineyards, fava bean cover crops, small villages and landscapes dotted with cypress trees.

    We stopped for lunch at a small olive oil and wine producer’s farm. Our lunch featured some wine and olive oil tasting. There are many types of olives being grown here, and we had the option of tasting about six different single-variety oils and one blend. We found subtle differences in the varieties. I’m sure the Tuscans appreciate the nuances better than we did.

    For the most part, one type of grape is grown in this region—Sangiovese. Chianti Classico is made from no less than 80% Sangiovese, and around here, generally 100%. Chianti Classico is aged in vats of cement, which doesn’t impart additional flavors to the wine. We’ll be able to enjoy it again at home, as we had them ship us a case, as well as some olive oils.

    After a hearty traditional lunch (with wine!), we had to roll along and face the steepest hill of the day. E-bikes still require fairly strenuous pedaling, by the way.

    That climb took us to Montefioralle, which is thought to be the birthplace of Amerigo Vespucci. The village dates back to 1085 and is quiet and very charming. We left the bikes and strolled around a bit.

    Just as rain began to fall, we made it to our lodging for the night, a villa near Panzano. It was situated among the vineyards, with beautiful views. The villa was once the family (or multi-family) home of some famous artists dating from the 1200s. It’s been restored beautifully, in keeping with the period (but with very comfortable modern amenities!). We were very tired after our full day of riding, but a delicious dinner in the cellar of the villa (former kitchens?), restored us. It was a great first day!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Vineyards near Radda in Chianti
    View from our Chianti region villaFamous butcher's shopAll of us above GreveNear an old Medici family ice-houseIn RaddaIn RaddaIn RaddaRadda's bell towerNear GaioleFrederica checking on our lunch spotA river of mustard!We made it to Siena!Day 2 Route

    Cycling through Chianti country, Day 2

    April 16, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Today was another 30+ mile day, but the weather was clearer and the first part was downhill, so we started off in good spirits.

    Our first stop was to the shop of a famous butcher, Dario Cecchini. He even has his own Netflix show. By 10am we were offered a small glass of wine and a taste of flavored lard spread on the delicious bread they make in Tuscany. It sounds kind of yucky, eating pure lard, but it was very creamy, like butter. We also weren’t sure about starting the day with a glass of wine, but, hey, we’re in Tuscany!

    Riding on, we stopped at various viewpoints and got to stroll around another medieval village—Radda. At one point, we rode for several kilometers alongside a “river” of blooming yellow mustard—just spectacular!

    We were sad to say ‘arrivederci’ to Frederica upon arriving in Siena in the late afternoon. She was such good company, and so informative, as well as interested and curious about us. She had already done a partially solo trip from British Columbia to San Francisco (she and her partner had a falling out on the road), but she rides with her greyhound dog in a trailer. Next up is a ride from Florence to Nepal—solo with dog—for two to three years. Can you imagine it? What a brave and free-spirited woman.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Climbing around under the roofs
    Breakfast, with Italian hot chocolate?View from our hotel windowSiena cathedralFlags representing the "wards/neighborhoods" of SienaLooking up at a smaller chapel dome in the cathedralOne of many beautiful marble inlays on the floorNote the horns on the organIn the choir room, walls lined with music scoresThirteenth century music scoreIt's like a rabbit warren under the domeView from the tops of the cathedralSiena street sceneIn the crypt

    Siena Cathedral: Views from the Dome

    April 17, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today was all about the Siena Cathedral. It dates from the early- to mid-1200s, and was built on the site of an earlier structure. We could see some of the older church when we visited the crypt.

    There are 56 marble mosaic floor panels, created by the leading artists of the period. One technique, called graffito, used a chisel and drill to draw designs on white marble slabs, and then filled in with black stucco—looking a bit like a line drawing. Another technique placed colored marble pieces together, which is known as marble mosaic inlay.

    The panels extend across the whole floor of the cathedral, but they keep much of it covered up (to protect it?). In fact, today was the first day that a good portion of it was unveiled, whereas yesterday, none of it was uncovered. It’s a beautiful place.

    Small groups are allowed to walk up into the attic, so to speak, and get a view of the cathedral from above—under the large dome. The walk also took us outside to get views of the cathedral and the surrounding countryside from above—spectacular!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    San Gimignano
    San GimignanoA little park in San GimignanoFortress walls at San GimignanoView from the Great Tower at San GimignanoIn MonteriggioniWalking the castle walls in MonteriggioniView from the walls in MonteriggioniWalking the castle walls in MonteriggioniBattering ram, now a ticket officeWalls of Monteriggioni

    Medieval villages around Siena

    April 18, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We picked up a rental car and drove out of Siena to visit San Gimignano and Monteriggioni, two walled cities dating from the 13th century.

    San Gimignano is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is known for its fortified towers. The families who controlled the town built 70 or so tower-houses (some as high as 150 feet) as symbols of their wealth and power. Only 14 towers are still standing.

    Monteriggioni is also a fortified village surrounded by towers, although smaller than those in San Gimignano.

    The Via Francigena passes through both of these towns. It is an ancient pilgrimage route starting in Canterbury in England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome. Thanks to the description of his journey home to Canterbury from Rome made by an archbishop in AD 994, it has been possible to reconstruct the route precisely. Many people use these routes for trekking (and pilgrimages).    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Darryl, Mike & Sondra in Asciano
    Clay hills of the Crete SenesiBuonconventoBuonconvento city gateAscianoAscianoAbbey of Monte Oliveto MaggioreIn the AbbeyIn the AbbeyInlaid wood at the AbbeyInlaid wood at the AbbeyOld distilling equipment at the abbeyIn the library at the AbbeyThe refectory at the AbbeyThe working wine cellar at the Abbey

    Onward to the Tuscan Countryside

    April 19, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Last night our Bay Area friends, Mike and Sondra arrived to Siena, and today we set off to stay in Montepulciano for four nights. The point-to-point drive would have been less than two hours, but we stopped for views and visits to points of interest, and made a day of it.

    Our drive took us into a geographical region known as the Crete Senesi. It is an area with white clay soil, which during dry times can give it a barren look, dotted by the occasional cypress trees and olive groves. At this time of year (or maybe this wet year in particular), we saw rolling green hills with blotches of white clay.

    We stopped in a couple of medieval towns —Buonconvento and Asciano—to look around. In the first, we got lunch at a rather nondescript cafe, which turned out to be one that President Obama and his family had visited! The chef and staff were so pleased—they showed us photos and even had a menu item named after Obama. Nearby Asciano we toured an abbey that was founded in 1313. Sondra had read about their beautiful inlaid wood panels, so we knew we had to check them out. Everything in the abbey has been beautifully restored (or maintained?)—colorful frescoes, ceiling ornamentation, and the wine cellars. We had a nice discussion with the cellar master and picked out a bottle to share when we get to our Airbnb later in the trip.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Coppersmith Ramaio CesareInside Cesare's workshopCopper working toolsGarden in MontepulcianoArchaeological site preserved under a wine tasting roomView of Montepulciano's cathedral below the townView from our drive in the Val d'Orcia"Green-winged orchid"Long-distance car raceThermal baths of Bagno Vignoni (red poppies in foreground)Viewpoint over the thermal bathsPienza's palacePienza cheese shopPienza's ancient wellView from PienzaView from PienzaBack in Montepulciano

    Montepulciano and theVal D’Orcia

    April 20, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Montepulciano is in the “Vino Nobile” wine region, where the grape variety is still Sangiovese, like Chianti Classico, but it is more likely to be blended with other varietals.

    We are staying in the heart of this old medieval city, which sits high on a hill. In fact, our guest house has many different levels, and we can go out the front door and be on the upper road, or the back door to reach the lower road.

    After cheerful banter at breakfast from our exuberant B&B host, Roberto, we set out to explore the upper part of the town, using Rick Steves’ book. One recommended stop was to the store and workshop of coppersmith Ramaio Cesare.

    Cesare’s store has many beautiful pieces of copper cookware and decorative pieces. His workshop is full of tools and copper pieces, old smelting equipment and many photos of his work, including the copper top of the Duomo in Siena and the piece he designed and personally delivered to Pope Benedict. We probably spent 45 minutes with Cesare, and not a word of English was spoken by him. He is passionate about his work, and quite a character.

    After a traditional Tuscan lunch of pasta or fondue, we got the car from the parking lot (this is a pedestrian town, for the most part), to explore the countryside — the Val d’Orcia—a UNESCO World Heritage site. We stopped in more medieval villages and a village with thermal baths. There we came upon a car race, the Mille Miglia, which passes through the village. Vintage cars make a round trip from Brescia (north, near Milan) to Rome, and back.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    E-biking on white clay gravel roads
    Looking back on our village of MontepulcianoLooking up at PienzaPienzaTraditional Tuscan dish--Pici al RaguLimoncello!Our farmhouse lunch spotIn MonticchielloView of Pienza from MonticchielloView from MonticchielloZigzag CypressThat time of 3+ hours is not right!

    Biking the White Roads of Val d’Orcia

    April 21, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The two of us rented fat tire e-bikes and rode down from our hilltop city to explore the countryside on the white clay gravel roads. The bike shop set us up with a route to follow on Google maps and off we went. The weather was spectacular and the scenery even better.

    Around lunchtime we found a small farm restaurant, and because we were making good time, we decided to have a glass of wine with our meal, like all the Italians do. We didn’t know that after lunch our host would bring us two shot glasses and a bottle each of limoncello and dessert wine to sample from! Well, we’d worked hard on the hills before lunch, even with the e-bikes, so we sat and enjoyed the ambiance at the farmhouse—chickens, a big fat turkey and a young family at the table next to us, and then we were ready to ride again. When we got to Monticchiello, we parked the bikes and strolled the village, which dates back to the mid-1200s. It was a pretty quiet place, compared to some of the places we’ve visited.

    We took a small detour to a spot marked “Punto Panoramico Cipreces en Zigzag” (panoramic viewpoint of zigzag cypress), because we were curious. Cute, but they only zigzag because the road does. You’ll see the photo.

    We’d saved enough e-bike battery power to make it back to our hilltop home by the end of the day. What a great day!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    On the Montalcino ramparts
    In MontepulcianoWalking around MontepulcianoTypical site in these old citiesA Neapolitan-style bell-ringer in MontepulcianoEtruscan decorations in MontepulcianoMontepulciano street sightOn the Montalcino rampartsOn the Montalcino rampartsView from the Montalcino tower fortTasting room in the fort tower3 wine tastes each, 12 glasses

    Montalcino and Brunello Wine Tasting

    April 22, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    For our last full day in Montepulciano, we explored the lower part of the town and then set off in the car to do the Brunello Wine driving tour in Rick Steves’ book, and to visit the village of Montalcino. The region surrounding the village is the center of activity for Brunello wine production. A tasting room is located in the old fort of the city. We were able to climb a tower and get panoramic views from up on the walls.

    After climbing down, we received a nicely curated wine tasting (with local pecorino cheese and bread sticks) and learned a lot. The wine is produced in very small batches, and for the wines we tasted, the grapes are hand picked—grape by grape. There are all kinds of rules about whether a wine can be called Brunello, resulting in a 15-year period before you can sell your first bottle. No wonder the wines we tasted cost 90 euros and up for a bottle.

    Later in our countryside drive, we visited a winery and olive oil tasting/producing estate and heard a great story. The estate has origins that date back to the 17th century when it was founded by a local abbot, mainly for olive oil production. Eventually, in the mid-1800s it was sold to a wealthy land owner, who had one offspring, a daughter (Elda). Elda fell in love with a “poor” count (Alberto Piccolomini), a direct descendent of Pope Pius II. Elda’s family wasn’t happy about the match (because Alberto was older—didn’t look a lot older to us in their wedding photo—and because he was poor). Alberto’s family didn’t like the match because Elda wasn’t from noble birth. So, when Elda died in 1985 (as the last survivor of the couple), she snubbed both families and left the estate to her farm manager, who had no idea! Giuseppe then expanded from primarily olive oil production to wines. The estate is still run by his family.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Liberation Day parade in Montepulciano
    Liberation Day parade in Montepulciano5th century BC arch gate in VolterraPlaque commemorating the preservation of Volterra's gatePedestrian lane in VolterraVolterraPaninis in the parkVolterra castle from the parkViews of Volterra

    Liberation Day Parade, Etruscan Volterra

    April 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    April 25 is a national holiday in Italy. It commemorates the Italian resistance’s victory over Mussolini’s fascist regime and also the end of the Nazi occupation of Italy in 1945. Here in Montepulciano, the big celebration took place today, Sunday, with parades and music in the square. We had a big driving day ahead of us and had to get on the road, but we caught some of the parade from our window.

    Each of the eight contradas (wards/neighborhoods) was represented, with their distinctive colors. As you walk through Montepulciano, you know which contrada you are in because of the flags with crests hanging from the walls. It was a beautiful sight to see the period costumes of each contrada, each with a “king & queen” representative, and at the end, all contradas represented together in the drum corps.

    On the way to Cinque Terre, we planned a stop in Volterra, an ancient village dating back to pre-Roman Etruscan times. Parts of one of the gates to the city, “Porta all'Arco,” are thought to date back to the 4th century BC. Three very worn heads symbolize Zeus and his two sons, Castor and Pollux (see the black blobs on the top and sides of the arch gate photo). Anyway, the gate is so significant that during the German occupation in 1944, the townspeople removed the paving stones around the gate overnight to prevent the German troops from destroying the gate. A plaque placed on the 50th anniversary of that event commemorates their deed.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and ItalyDiane and Darryl
    Looking down on Manarola
    Early on the trail, crowds not too badGetting more crowdedLooking back on RiomaggioreManarolaIn the Manarola town piazzaHere come the hordes"Upper" ManarolaOur home town of Riomaggiore

    Cinque Terre: Riomaggiore to Manarola

    April 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We’re in Riomaggiore—the southernmost of the five towns of the picturesque Cinque Terre, on the seacoast.

    We’ve been wondering whether Liberation Day was shifted from Tuesday to Monday to allow for a long weekend, because the crowds were insane. Just a continuous line of hikers on the trail from our town to the next one to the north—Manarola.

    The trail was only a few miles, but the two towns are separated by a mountain and it was a very steep climb up stone stairs and pathways, and then a corresponding descent into the village on the coast. Grapes and olives are grown on nearly every available patch of land with terracing.

    Normally there is a nice flat trail between the villages, but it was destroyed in a landslide in 2012 and is still being rebuilt. The views from the top were spectacular, even with the crowds.

    Getting back to Riomaggiore on the train was a complete zoo, and the group got separated and wound up taking separate trains back. We’re in an Airbnb very close to the train station, which is convenient, but a bit noisy (not too bad, though).    Read more

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