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Amsterdam and Italy

March - April 2023
A 28-day adventure by Diane Read more
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  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 11

    Ancient City of Pompeii

    April 10, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Pompeii is the more well-known site of the devastating 79 AD Vesuvius eruption. The excavated portion of Pompeii is ten times larger than that of Herculaneum. Some 2.5 million tourists visit it each year, and maybe the Easter Monday holiday wasn’t the best time to visit.

    Because a number of areas are still under active excavation, we were less free to walk around the site than we were at Herculaneum. Many wall and floor decorations had been removed (to the museum) by previous excavators. But the ornate columns and friezes above gave us a good sense of this once prosperous city and its dwellings.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 12

    Spontaneously in Sorrento

    April 11, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We didn’t pay careful attention to the train schedule and found we would have to wait quite a while to get to Paestum, where we were planning to see some Greek ruins. Instead, we hopped on a train to the seaside town of Sorrento. It’s an interesting mix of tourists and fashion enthusiasts. We sat on a bench near what we supposed was an exclusive hotel overlooking the sea. We watched guests arriving in Mercedes and BMWs (not driving themselves, of course), and being greeted like celebrities (maybe they were!). We strolled the cliff edge overlooking the sea, and wandered narrow streets. The place is jam-packed with small lemon groves—like the size of our backyard, but everyone had them. Of course we had to try a lemonade or two from a street vendor.

    It was a beautiful sunny day for our outing. Even better, we found that the ferry could get us back to Naples in less time and with more comfort than the train. The view of Vesuvius from out on the water shows just how much of the top has been blown off (probably not just from the eruption that destroyed Pompeii and Herculaneum in the 1st century).    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 13

    Naples: Marble and Markets

    April 12, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We had the morning to explore a bit of Naples before our train to Florence. There was a marble sculpture we’d read was worth visiting—"Veiled Christ" at Cappella Sansevero. This chapel isn’t very old and is more of a museum. It was built in the mid-1700s by the Prince of Sansevero. He was an inventor, patron of the arts and first Grand Master of Neapolitan Freemasonry. He commissioned various artists to produce marble sculptures and works of art to decorate his chapel. Many of these pieces show incredible detail. We weren’t allowed to take photos, but are sharing some from the website.

    Besides the gossamer veil over the body of Christ, we were especially impressed by the statue representing “Disillusion,” one of the ten “virtues,” or more like stages along an arduous pathway towards knowledge and perfection. The rope net binding the figure was so delicate that the stonemason’s assistants refused to file/sand them for fear of breaking it. So the artist had to do it all himself.

    Another thing we did before leaving was to go to a Roman market that had been excavated beneath a present-day cathedral. An eruption of Mt. Vesuvius around 400 AD buried the site in “mud,” formed by steam and ash.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 14

    Florence: Uffuzi Gallery and a Bike Ride

    April 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    A three-hour train ride yesterday brought us to Florence from Naples. Our first stop today was to the Uffuzi Gallery, which houses works of art from the Italian Renaissance period. The building began as administrative offices for the ruling Medici family dating from the 16th century. The top floor of the museum also has some wonderful views out over the city.

    We continued with the theme of views by renting e-bikes to get out of the city and into the hills above town. It was a bit tense getting out of Florence by bike—narrow roads and a fair amount of traffic, but there were some protected bike lanes, and eventually we got into quiet country roads.

    Our ride took us past Villa Gamberaia, which Erin visited during her Rome study abroad. Her drawing of the site hangs in Diane’s parents’ home. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to go in and visit, but the grounds from the very small lane were very scenic!

    Florence is a nice change from Naples—cleaner streets and fewer honking cars and motorcycles. Our apartment is just about on the Arno River, and a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio—the oldest bridge in Florence. The bridge is lined with old wooden jewelry shops, still in operation.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 15

    Florence: Bell Tower and Boboli Gardens

    April 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We started the day by climbing 414 steps to the top of “Giotto’s Bell Tower” (in the final 100 steps we got very friendly with other visitors!). The colored marble tower was begun in 1334, paused for two years between 1348 and 1350 because of the Black Plague, and finally completed in 1359. The views from the top made the climb worthwhile!

    We kept checking on the lines to visit the cathedral, but they just weren’t moving, so we had to skip it.

    Darryl visited the Galileo Museum while Diane rested from a bit of a cold. It contained a collection of scientific instruments that the Medici family had collected. Galileo did not invent the telescope, but he made big improvements on it and made 50 of them before he sold the design to a local merchant. The museum has an example of his telescope there.

    Later that day, we visited the Pitti Palace, which dates from 1458 and was built for Luca Pitti a powerful banker. The palace was bought by the Medici family in 1549 and became their chief residence during their rule of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. We visited the royal apartments (even the “anterooms” were lavishly decorated. The Boboli Gardens are on the palace grounds, and afford beautiful views over Florence.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    1
    Day 16

    Cycling through Chianti country, Day 1

    April 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We arranged a two-day e-biking trip from Florence to Siena with “We Like Tuscany,” who provided a private guide and moved our luggage for us.

    Our guide, Frederica, has dual Canadian-Italian citizenship, and had spent the last three (COVID) years in Canada, so her English was excellent. She lives north of Florence (the hill town of Fiesole, which we e-biked to a couple of days ago). She is so knowledgeable about the Chianti Classico wine and olive oil production, and clearly passionate about the history of her region of Tuscany. She is taking sommelier classes, just to broaden her knowledge for guiding and whatever else may come along. We were pleasantly surprised to get such great information all along our ride, as we thought we were getting a bike route guide only.

    Our 30-mile first day took us above the city of Florence and onto small country roads through olive groves, vineyards, fava bean cover crops, small villages and landscapes dotted with cypress trees.

    We stopped for lunch at a small olive oil and wine producer’s farm. Our lunch featured some wine and olive oil tasting. There are many types of olives being grown here, and we had the option of tasting about six different single-variety oils and one blend. We found subtle differences in the varieties. I’m sure the Tuscans appreciate the nuances better than we did.

    For the most part, one type of grape is grown in this region—Sangiovese. Chianti Classico is made from no less than 80% Sangiovese, and around here, generally 100%. Chianti Classico is aged in vats of cement, which doesn’t impart additional flavors to the wine. We’ll be able to enjoy it again at home, as we had them ship us a case, as well as some olive oils.

    After a hearty traditional lunch (with wine!), we had to roll along and face the steepest hill of the day. E-bikes still require fairly strenuous pedaling, by the way.

    That climb took us to Montefioralle, which is thought to be the birthplace of Amerigo Vespucci. The village dates back to 1085 and is quiet and very charming. We left the bikes and strolled around a bit.

    Just as rain began to fall, we made it to our lodging for the night, a villa near Panzano. It was situated among the vineyards, with beautiful views. The villa was once the family (or multi-family) home of some famous artists dating from the 1200s. It’s been restored beautifully, in keeping with the period (but with very comfortable modern amenities!). We were very tired after our full day of riding, but a delicious dinner in the cellar of the villa (former kitchens?), restored us. It was a great first day!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 17

    Cycling through Chianti country, Day 2

    April 16, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Today was another 30+ mile day, but the weather was clearer and the first part was downhill, so we started off in good spirits.

    Our first stop was to the shop of a famous butcher, Dario Cecchini. He even has his own Netflix show. By 10am we were offered a small glass of wine and a taste of flavored lard spread on the delicious bread they make in Tuscany. It sounds kind of yucky, eating pure lard, but it was very creamy, like butter. We also weren’t sure about starting the day with a glass of wine, but, hey, we’re in Tuscany!

    Riding on, we stopped at various viewpoints and got to stroll around another medieval village—Radda. At one point, we rode for several kilometers alongside a “river” of blooming yellow mustard—just spectacular!

    We were sad to say ‘arrivederci’ to Frederica upon arriving in Siena in the late afternoon. She was such good company, and so informative, as well as interested and curious about us. She had already done a partially solo trip from British Columbia to San Francisco (she and her partner had a falling out on the road), but she rides with her greyhound dog in a trailer. Next up is a ride from Florence to Nepal—solo with dog—for two to three years. Can you imagine it? What a brave and free-spirited woman.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 18

    Siena Cathedral: Views from the Dome

    April 17, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today was all about the Siena Cathedral. It dates from the early- to mid-1200s, and was built on the site of an earlier structure. We could see some of the older church when we visited the crypt.

    There are 56 marble mosaic floor panels, created by the leading artists of the period. One technique, called graffito, used a chisel and drill to draw designs on white marble slabs, and then filled in with black stucco—looking a bit like a line drawing. Another technique placed colored marble pieces together, which is known as marble mosaic inlay.

    The panels extend across the whole floor of the cathedral, but they keep much of it covered up (to protect it?). In fact, today was the first day that a good portion of it was unveiled, whereas yesterday, none of it was uncovered. It’s a beautiful place.

    Small groups are allowed to walk up into the attic, so to speak, and get a view of the cathedral from above—under the large dome. The walk also took us outside to get views of the cathedral and the surrounding countryside from above—spectacular!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 19

    Medieval villages around Siena

    April 18, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We picked up a rental car and drove out of Siena to visit San Gimignano and Monteriggioni, two walled cities dating from the 13th century.

    San Gimignano is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is known for its fortified towers. The families who controlled the town built 70 or so tower-houses (some as high as 150 feet) as symbols of their wealth and power. Only 14 towers are still standing.

    Monteriggioni is also a fortified village surrounded by towers, although smaller than those in San Gimignano.

    The Via Francigena passes through both of these towns. It is an ancient pilgrimage route starting in Canterbury in England, through France and Switzerland, to Rome. Thanks to the description of his journey home to Canterbury from Rome made by an archbishop in AD 994, it has been possible to reconstruct the route precisely. Many people use these routes for trekking (and pilgrimages).    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylAmsterdam and Italy
    Day 20

    Onward to the Tuscan Countryside

    April 19, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Last night our Bay Area friends, Mike and Sondra arrived to Siena, and today we set off to stay in Montepulciano for four nights. The point-to-point drive would have been less than two hours, but we stopped for views and visits to points of interest, and made a day of it.

    Our drive took us into a geographical region known as the Crete Senesi. It is an area with white clay soil, which during dry times can give it a barren look, dotted by the occasional cypress trees and olive groves. At this time of year (or maybe this wet year in particular), we saw rolling green hills with blotches of white clay.

    We stopped in a couple of medieval towns —Buonconvento and Asciano—to look around. In the first, we got lunch at a rather nondescript cafe, which turned out to be one that President Obama and his family had visited! The chef and staff were so pleased—they showed us photos and even had a menu item named after Obama. Nearby Asciano we toured an abbey that was founded in 1313. Sondra had read about their beautiful inlaid wood panels, so we knew we had to check them out. Everything in the abbey has been beautifully restored (or maintained?)—colorful frescoes, ceiling ornamentation, and the wine cellars. We had a nice discussion with the cellar master and picked out a bottle to share when we get to our Airbnb later in the trip.    Read more

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