Ethiopia Debre Maryam

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  • Day 11

    Bahir Dar, Lake Tana Monasteries

    October 2, 2024 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    After an early morning flight from Addis Ababa, we started our day in Bahir Dar on the banks of Lake Tana and took a lengthy boat ride to various islands, spotting giant white pelicans and fishermen in papyrus canoes along the way.
    There are many small islands in this large lake, most of which house monasteries from the 14th century, and all have colorful religious paintings. They are still in use exactly like they were 700 years ago, each containing a replica of the Ark of the Covenant with Moses' Ten Commandmends tablets. They claim the son of Solomon brought the original from Jerusalem in 900 BC, and it is now in the church at Axum north of here. But no one can see it except one dedicated priest.
    We visited 4 monasteries today, all quite interesting, and tomorrow we drive to Gondar, a four hour journey.
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  • Day 64

    48. ETH: Bahir Dar - Blue Nile Falls

    July 10, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Our tour guide for the drive through Ethiopia was Dagi, and our driver, Yonnis. They picked us up in Addis & we headed off to Bahir Dar.

    The Blue Nile Falls is a key tourist attraction in this part of Ethiopia. It is known as Tis Abay in Amharic, meaning 'Smoke Abay'.

    The river's path takes it to Khartoum, Sudan, where it joins the White Nile (which originates in Uganda, as you saw in my last post). Collectively the 2 rivers are the primary source of the Nile River, which also flows through Egypt, ultimately emptying into the Mediterranean Sea. The construction of a much-needed hydroelectric dam upstream (the river flows north, so upstream is south, in Ethiopia) has reduced the flow of the falls, but the real issue lies in Egypt, where the many people relying on the Nile are affected by the reduction in flow.

    Although puny in comparison to Victoria Falls in Tanzania, I enjoyed this experience more. The Nile Falls were located in a remote, lush green area surrounded by local farmland. It gave me the feeling of enjoying a special place in nature, as opposed to joining the herd at a tourist attraction.

    Food update: We got introduced to injera, a thin pancake made from local teff flour, which is topped in the center with your choice of food. You eat the dish with your hands, tearing off a piece of the pancake, and using it to pick up and eat your topping. Its a bit messy as the pancake becomes soggy, but its a traditional practice for Ethiopians to eat with their hands. Not my cup of tea, but I'm glad i tried it.
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  • Day 62

    47. Ethiopia: Addis Ababa

    July 8, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Our flight from Nairobi Kenya to Addis Ababa Ethiopia went smoothly. Of course, Craig had us at the airport so early that we beat the Ethiopian Airlines staff there, and had to wait for them to set up. Haha.

    Upon arrival in AA, after a 15 minute delay chatting with a guy at the airport who we thought was our shuttle driver (but who turned out to be just a guy wanting to change money for us), we made our way to our hotel. Arriving around 9:30P, they seemed unaware of our reservation, but my "boy scout" travelling partner had ALL the paperwork, and the confusion was quickly dispelled.

    Our Africa experience now changes, from an animal focus, to a cultural focus. Our one day in Addis gave us time for a visit to a museum and to the markets.

    The Ethnological Museum is situated on the campus of Addis Ababa University, in the former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie, whose real name is Tafari Makonnen. His pre-emperor title of "Ras", meaning duke or prince, coupled with his first name was the source of the word "Rastafarian", a counter-culture movement developed in Jamaica and brought to light by reggae musicians like Bob Marley. Go figure

    After a tour of the museum, we drove through the local markets. Some pix attached.
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  • Day 3

    Lac Tana

    January 8, 2020 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Les rives du vaste lac Tana abritent des petits monastères qu'on va visiter en bateau. Assez sommaires, ils renferment des peintures représentant des scènes bibliques dans un style naïf et coloré. A Entos Eyesu, l'une d'entre elles représente le Diable, mais le prêtre la cache derrière une planche - on ne sait jamais. Pas de bol pour nous, certains des monastères sont fermés pour la messe, mais c'est aussi l'occasion de voir les fidèles complètement absorbés dans leurs prières. Alors on les laisse tranquilles pour aller voir une invention éthiopienne, le "bar-musée". Le concept : on s'accoude au comptoir d'une petite cahute où sont entreposés croix, encensoirs, tambours, manuscrits et autres objets religieux. Le prêtre, derrière le comptoir, passe en revue chacun de ses petits trésors. Fallait y penser.

    Au retour, là où démarre le Nil Bleu on peut observer deux beaux hippopotames qui sortent la tête de l'eau en agitant les oreilles.

    Bahir Dar est plus agréable que Addis Abeba. Grosse pizza "tikawé" en regardant les tuks tuks (bajaj) passer et on rentre.
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  • Day 4

    Tana See Bahir Dar

    November 9, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Wir besuchen ein Kloster und erfahren einiges über die Religion Äthiopiens.
    Auf dem Weg zum Kloster kommen wir an Einheimischen vorbei, welche Souvenirs verkaufen. Ich kann natürlich nicht widerstehen und kaufe wunderschöne Dinge für kleines Geld.Read more

  • Day 4

    Kulturschock Afrika

    November 9, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Heute besuchen wir den Blauen Nil Wasserfall . Auf den Weg dorthin erleben wir das Leben der Äthiopier hautnah. Es ist so faszinierend und unglaublich beeindruckend. Man hat das Gefühl in einer anderen Welt zu sein. Wie diese Menschen leben, in völliger Armut und im Einklang mit der Natur, erstaunt mich ungemein. Die Landschaft ist so wunderschön, man kann sich gar nicht satt sehen. Ich bin völlig geflasht und sprachlos!Read more

  • Day 3

    Bahir Dar

    November 8, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Heute fahren wir nach Bahir Dar. Die Reise führt uns 560km nördlich. Ganz früh am Morgen starten wir die Fahrt und kommen erst abends 20.30 Uhr an. Wir fahren durch die trockene und schöne Landschaft im Hochland. Wir überqueren den blauen Nil, haben einen atemberaubenden Blick auf den afrikanischen Grabenbuch und beobachten Paviane am Straßenrand. Die Straßenverhältnisse sind nicht die besten, teilweise nur Schotterpisten. Es geht bergauf und bergab. Wir fahren durch kleine Dörfer und erleben das Treiben der Menschen auf den Straßen. Esel, Schafe und Kühe laufen entlang der Straßen oder grasen am Wegesrand. Das Leben hier ist schon sehr arm aber trotzdem sind die Menschen glücklich, zufrieden und sehr freundlich. Teilweise gibt es keinen Strom und Wasser wird aus der nächsten Wasserstelle geholt. Als Transportmittel wird der Esel genutzt. Manchmal sieht man aber auch Pferdekarren und TuckTucks. Autos besitzen die Menschen auf dem Land fast gar nicht.
    Auf dem Weg nach Bahir Dar hat es im Gebirge einen Unfall gegeben. Zwei LKW's sind kollidiert. Der eine ist umgestürzt, der andere in zwei Hälften gerissen. Die Piste ist komplett blockiert. Zwei Stunden müssen wir mitten im Nirgendwo bei sengender Hitze ausharren. Wieder mal ein Abenteuer, das so typisch ist für Afrika.
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  • Day 79

    Au bord du Lac Tana, le Nil Bleu

    January 23, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Notre première virée hors de la capitale sera aux abords du Lac Tana, 10h de bus au nord-ouest d'Addis, dans la région Amhara.

    Nous prenons donc le bus de bon matin direction la ville de Bahar Dar. Nous passons un super trajet en compagnie d'éthiopiens attentionnés et nous faisons la connaissance d'une famille avec leur petit Menelik. Avec lui nous avons le droit à un cours particulier des animaux de la ferme en langue Amharique, ce qui nous permet maintenant de nous la raconter à chaque fois que nous croisons des animaux !

    Plusieurs surprises nous attendent le long du trajet. Tout d'abord nous croisons de charmants petits villages constitués de Tukuls (huttes rondes traditionnelles en toit de chaume) et d'habitations ressemblent à de petites maisonnettes fabriquées en eucalyptus et recouvertes d'un toit en acier. Toutes sont très bien construites et entretenues. Les éthiopiens au bord des routes se font de plus en plus nombreux au fur et à mesure que le jour se lève.
    Enfin, au milieu du trajet, au détour d'un virage, nous plongeons dans la Vallée du Grand Rift, immense canyon parcourant tout l'est du continent... grandiose, vertigineux, nous sommes scotchés à la fenêtre.

    Arrivés à Bahar Dar, ça grouille de monde, ça klaxonne, ça sent le café, ça vend et achète de tout... ville bouillonnante aux abords du paisible Lac Tana. Ce lac est la source du Nil Bleu, l'un des deux principaux affluents du Nil.

    Nous profitons de ces quelques jours pour nous balader aux abords du lac et aller voir les chutes du Nil Bleu. Après 1h30 de tappe-cul en minibus local, et une belle balade dans la campagne, nous voilà devant ces cascades. Elles sont magnifiques mais ont perdu de leur grandeur, et cela pour deux raisons : nous sommes en saison sèche, et le débit à été fortement réduit du fait de la construction d'un barrage hydraulique en amont... électricité ou eau pour l'agriculture ? Malheureusement il faut choisir... constat encore plus dur lorsque l'on s'aperçoit au retour, dans la nuit, que beaucoup de villages voisins n'ont pas l'électricité...

    Le Lac Tana, un premier pas vers la découverte de la "vraie" Ethiopie, avec ses gens adorables mais parfois insistants, sa population jeune mais pauvre, son développement progressif mais encore trop partiel, et tant d'autres paradoxes.
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  • Day 6

    Near Gondar

    October 22, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    These are a few views along the road heading from Bahir Dar to Gondar (not Gondor: I'm not due in Middle Earth until January 😉).
    The 1st picture is God's Finger, a unique rock outcrop. The 2nd picture is of the ruins of Guzara Palace which dates to the 16th century. The next 2 pictures are some of the scenery here in the Ethiopian highlands. The last 2 pictures are of Saturday markets in 2 towns along the way.Read more

  • Day 5

    Zeghie peninsula

    October 21, 2022 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The Zeghie peninsula is in Lake Tana. It's most important economic activity is naturally grown coffee. The trees grow wild and are harvested. The 1st picture is of a walkway there that passes through the coffee plants. They almost look to me more like vines. Incidentally, the man's hand is on an ebony tree. In addition to coffee, there is fishing, agriculture (mangos, avocado, lemons, etc.) and tourism.
    The peninsula is perhaps best known for the several monasteries therr, many dating to the 14th century. I visited 3 of them: Bete Maryam, Azusa Maryam and Ura Kidanemihret. The next several pictures are taken at the 3 monastery churches.
    These are round churches with concentric sections. The 2nd picture is one of these from the outside. This one maintains the traditional thatch roof. The 3rd picture is of the outermost ring of one. This is where the chanting, dancing, music, etc. takes place.
    The 2nd ring is highly painted with scenes from the bible and other books sacred to the Ethiopian Orthodox tradition. The 4th picture is the flight of the holy family to Egypt, which the Ethiopian tradition says continued south from Egypt into this region. The 5th picture shows the martyrdom of the apostles, something I don't think I've seen elsewhere. I should note that these paintings are on the innermost part of the church: the holy of holies. This part of the church is reserved for the priests. Note the door in the 6th picture. This is the entrance to the holy of holies and it always carries paintings of the archangels protecting the entrance. The 7th picture is the east side where the Eucharistic elements enter the holy of holies for mass. These 4 walls are painted from floor to roof.
    In order for a building to be an Ethiopian Orthodox church, the holy of holies must contain a replica of the ark of the covenant with the 10 commandments. The originals are said to be at Axum.
    The last 3 pictures are in the museum at Ura. The 8th picture is the original cross atop the Ura church from the 14th century. Historically, when kings ended their reigns before death, they retired to the monastery as monks. The 9th picture is the crowns given to the monastery at their retirement. The last picture is a large set of holy books predating the printing press. These include many held holy in Ethiopia but not in the biblical canon as we know it.
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