Zahara

Today, we are taking a bus tour to the White Villages and Ronda, about two hours southeast of Seville. We had thought of doing a bike tour thru this area but decided it might be a bit hazardous for us. After being there, we made the right decision

We have a wonderful guide who shares the history of Seville as we leave the city. We travel through farmlands with fallow fields that produce wheat and sunflowers. Lots of olive orchards as we proceed up, up, up onto the mountains.

Again, we hear about the Arabs arriving in the 8th century. They crossed via Gibraltor and conquered their way north through the Iberian peninsula. They conquered the Visigoths who had settled in the area from Northern parts of Europe.

700 years later, the Christians reconquered the Iberian peninsula from north to south.

White Villages originated in the Arab era and then captured in 1500s by Christians. They are white as a result of lime whitewash. The whitewash keeps the homes cool, fights the insects, and prevents the water from getting into the stucco. There are 19 White Villages. We visit 2 small ones. Zahara and then Grazelema.

They are spectacular. Zahara is one of the last villages held by the Muslims. In 1592, the Spanish Royals and their armies finally defeated Granada, the last Muslim area. It was the same year Christopher Columbus discovered America

After exploring Zahara, we went to an olive oil factory, established in the 18th century, that continues to use the traditional way of extracting olive oil. 12 generations of the same family have run the farm and its presses. We purchased extra virgin olive oil from their store.

From there, we proceed to Grazalema. The road is twisty and turny, and tummy upsetting.

We go through a forest of cork oaks, which extends over 200 Kilometers south to the Mediterranean. When planted, a tree takes up to 40 years before the cork (the bark of the tree) can be harvested. It can only be harvested every 9 years. The forest is owned by the country, and individuals get liscences to harvest the cork. The acorns from the cork trees ( a type of oak) are used to feed the andulusian pigs. Apparently very special meat, but we haven't tasted it.

We have lunch in Grazelema at a restaurant recommended by our guide. It is known for its exotic meat dishes, but our tummies dictate soup and salad.

We then arrive in Rondo. This town has been inhabited prior to the Romans ( the Visigoth era) who arrived in the Iberian peninsula in the 1st century. There are now about 30,000 people living there, making it the largest of the White Villages. In the 8th c, the Arabs settled here. You can still see evidence of their occupation in the buildings of the old town.

Ronda has the oldest bull ring in the world, established in the 19th C. There is an iconic bridge that goes across the Gorge from the old town to the new town. The original collapsed and a new bridge built in the 18th C.

A very full but very enjoyable day!Read more