France
Arnéguy

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    • Day 3

      Stone for Veronica

      May 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      A few weeks back I walked from Dad's to Musselburgh where my Mum was from. I picked up a wee heart shaped stone down at the River Esk and brought it with me. I left it at the statue up the Pyrenees today.Read more

    • Day 6

      Day 2: La Vierge to Roncesvalles, part 1

      May 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

      Miles: 8.5
      Elevation gain: 1,660 feet
      Elevation loss: 2,110 feet
      Weather: cold and windy at the top

      Today started, as the French woman next to me on the shuttle said, with us “walking into the clouds.” I was glad/grateful many times today, most often that it wasn’t raining or snowing. That said, this Oklahoman was pretty cold, especially at the top; with the wind, the relief was exquisite when the trail went low enough or in the lee of one of the mountains.

      Speaking of the shuttle, the driver started the car, and the first thing on the stereo was the opening was the first movement of Beethoven 9. That’s a little heavy, right?

      Anyway, up into the fog. The trail switched from the asphalt road to dirt trails fairly early on, and periods of flatness/slight descent were most welcome. I crossed the border into Spain without fanfare, and then climbed some more. I was very happy to reach the top, Col Lepoeder!

      1. Into the clouds!
      2. Lots of sheep. Apparently raised for the milk and cheese. Carry on!
      3. The beginning of the dirt trail was particularly steep.
      4. Welcome brief descent into the forest.
      5. The France-Spain border. That was it. No wall!
      6. The best lunch so far. I picked up a sandwich in Saint Jean. Crusty bread, cheese, and some sort of cherry jam. Perfect!
      7. Looking back over the Pyrenees
      8. Huge black slugs on the side of the road. They reminded me of alligators sunning themselves on the side of a trail in the Everglades.
      8. The top!
      Read more

    • Day 5

      And Over the Pyrenees!

      September 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

      Today we continued up and over the Pyrenees and into Spain. Allegedly only 11 km but my fitbit says 11 miles. Could have been the path we took down the final descent…I think it was a longcut rather than a shortcut but so pretty! We were walking with our new friend Linda and there was a fork in the trail. We chose left. About 1/4 down a big rocky hillside we started to figure out that the trail we were on was the one that the nice man in the pilgrims office said NOT to take because it’s steep and dangerous. Oops! It was steep but not nearly as gnarly as about half the trails in our national parks. Plus it went through a beautiful forest!

      Here the people put bells on the collars of all their grazing animals. The sheep have little bells that sound delicate and beautiful and the cows and horses have big bells, about the size of those cans we used to buy tomato juice in back in the day!

      We’re in a tiny village called Roncesvalles with a population of 21! It’s the site of an old monastery that was built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries as a layover for monks making the pilgrimage to Santiago. Apparently too many monks were dying as they tried to go the 40 something km from St-Jean, over the Pyrenees, and to Zubiri, so the church established the town and monastery here. As the monks departed after a night’s rest and a meal, they were given a care package that included essentials such as a bottle of beer, a bottle of wine…and some other stuff.

      David’s doing better with getting into a routine. What a relief! He still has trouble with knowing where we are and remembering where our things are but at least now he seems a bit more settled. (On our first day of this trip he lost his green beanie and his ATM card, but then he let me carry out passports and money). A big relief for me! I’m so glad we can make this trip together!
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    • Day 2

      Stage 2: Orisson to Roncesvalles

      September 14, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Yesterday kicked my butt. So did today for different reasons but we'll get to that later. Eleven miles and I don't even want to know the elevation gain, up and over Col Lepoeder pass 1432 m, the Napoleon route over the Pyrenees into Spain. Hardest part was standing in line for an hour to check in when I got there, was about to keel over. But after getting out of the boots, showering and handing my reeking sweat drenched clothing over to volunteers who washed and dried it (tears of joy!) I revived enough to enjoy the communal pilgrim dinner. Everything ached though, had to take naproxen so I could fall asleep. Had 3 German bunkmates in my cubicle who were so chill and packed so minimally I was in awe. After the amazing restorative power of sleep, was actually able to get up, put the boots back on, shoulder the pack and head out again by 0800 after breakfast. Onward to Zubiri.Read more

    • Day 5

      Day 2 Orisson to Roncesvalles

      May 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      At a glance:
      Food highlights: a picnic of ham and cheese boccadilla complete with mountain view.
      Kilometres walked: 16k, 12k of those uphill.
      # of steps: 14,918
      Elevation gain: 700metres

      We were supposed to get a wet foggy day but it was mostly sunshine with a few clouds. Approaching the peak we had close encounters with fast moving clouds and had to wear 4 layers. But once over the peak it was perfect hiking weather, not too hot, not too cold.
      We had reservations for the Albergue in Ronsevalles and weren't worrying about getting there for the great bed scramble but they close the doors st 10 and we hoped to be there in time for an afternoon nap. The last 3 times I never had reservations but word on the Camino is about how busy it is.
      We had boccadillos made for us and found a south facing ridge which blocked the wind and gave us a close view of a herd of horses whose neck bells rang out a some sort of mountain music while we munched our sandwiches.
      We took the easy route down, it wasn't steep and it wasn't well marked but I had fallen on the steep route years ago so the easy route was etched in my mind. Others ended up on it without knowing the risk. Sure enough, a very fit woman who shared our room the night before walked that route and fell but only bruised.
      They ran out of beds. They have something like 125 beds and floor space with mattresses for another 100 for emergencies and they were all in use. Many people were turned away.
      Just after 10pm as I was falling asleep, I heard the faint yell of a man 'Help'. Then a 'help, help, help' and banging on the door 3 floors below. They lock the doors st 10pm and I suspect he arrived after 10 but someone must have taken pity on him and let him in.
      Thank goodness we had our backpacks transported for us!
      Read more

    • Day 11

      Camino Day 1: SJPDP to Roncesvalles

      August 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      Total distance: 26km
      Step Count: 27.8k

      A very long day crossing over the Pyrenees, walking for hours in the fog and mist and surrounded by farm animals the whole way through: 🐑 🐐 🐄 🐎

      Met the loveliest people today and as soon as we crossed the border into Spain, my Spanish was put to good use.

      At midday we passed an 81 year old woman with fragile knees along the trail and by 8pm she still hadn’t made it to shelter, unlocking a couple hours of contacting emergency services and talking to the rescue team. A collective effort saw Estela back at the shelter at 10pm, a joyous moment for us all. The rescue team found her still walking on the trail and if that doesn’t speak to a person’s spirit and determination, I don’t know what does!
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    • Day 7

      Day 1-Orisson/Auberge Borda

      September 3, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      No one slept much last night. We were all too excited. We had mild weather today which was perfect for hiking. We only walked 7 miles but it was straight up the Pyrenees. We went from 500 feet elevation to 2900 feet. Pat did today's walk in his Chaco sandals. We saw a couple different types of sheep, cows and vultures. The views are spectacular! The Aussies are with us as well as another Californian, NYer, South Koreans, a German, a Swede and a Brit. Our lives are pretty simple now....walk, laundry, eat and sleep...and converting kilometers to miles, pounds to kilograms, and Fahrenheit to Celsius. We really should just switch to the metric system.Read more

    • Day 5

      St Jean to Roncesvalles 27kms 9.5 Hours

      September 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Today we walked 27km and gained 1400 meters of elevation through the Pyrenees. It was incredibly beautiful but very difficult. We took 9 hours to complete this leg. We were rewarded with a great pilgrim dinner with some old friends and new ones. Tonight we are staying in a 17th century monastery in RoncesvallesRead more

    • Day 5

      Day 4

      May 19 in France ⋅ 🌩️ 55 °F

      Up early, quick breakfast and on to the trail out of town to Borda. Beautiful scenery. The clouds followed us all day. Rained for a while but cleared. Started again in the evening. Stopped midway at Orrison and had hot chocolate. The temps fell as we climbed higher.
      I had my first “What the hell was I thinking” moment. I had to laugh. I figured I would but not this early.
      Our lodgings in Borda is wonderful. Very clean. I was so cold that I jumped into my 4 minute shower. I washed all vital parts and then stood in the hot water for 3 whole minutes!!!! Best part of my day!
      We will be sharing dinner with friends from South Korea, Croatia, New Zealand, Australia, and Indiana.
      Grateful that we made it, for the friends we have met and all the lessons we are learning on this journey. 17000 steps and 7.5 miles today. More tomorrow
      Read more

    • Day 3

      Valcarlos -Roncesvalles

      August 24, 2019 in France ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Der Weg von Arnegui nach Valcarlos ist für meinen Geschmack schon steil, aber es wird auf jeden Fall noch viel mehr, schließlich muss ich noch von jetzt 500m auf 1100 Höhenmeter. Also Kaffeepause in Valcarlos. Meine vierbeinigen Freunde möchten meinen Rucksack auch nicht tragen. Es ginge ihnen gut, dort wo sie sind, auf ihrer furchtbar steilen Koppel am Hang.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arnéguy, Arneguy, Arnegi, Арнегюи, 64220, Арнеги, Арнегюї, 阿尔内吉

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