Arromanches-les-Bains

Whew, it is hot!! Almost all of Europe appears to be under heat advisories. Southern France hit an all-time record today at 115 (45.9 C)! We are fortunate to be in Normandy because Paris was 5 degrees hotter at 91 today...although tomorrow, we're scheduled to be the same at a scorching 95. Not quite like the desert heat we experienced a couple of years ago in the SW US! :-/

Hard time getting going this AM with the lost hour and very comfy beds. We have two bedrooms, a sofa bed in the living room, and a sleeping mat on the floor, so we are blessedly able to spread out a bit.

Started with the neat museum in Bayeux dedicated to the Battle of Normandy. Several neat tanks out front, 25-minute video, and special exhibit set up for the 75th anniversary. Ended up spending over two hours. Then off to Pegasus Bridge, where the battle started with British gliders capturing two strategic bridges. We took some photos, walked across the new replica bridge, and looked at the memorials, before retreating to the cool of our vehicle.

Headed to the Melville battery next. They're in the process of significant upgrades at the sight. It was disgustingly hot, but we still enjoyed checking out a C47, underground batteries, well done exhibits (although need more English translation) and reading about the British parateoopers' struggle to successfully get the guns out of commission in advance of the D-Day landing at Sword. The bunkers were nice and cool, but finally we couldn't stand it anymore and we hit the road with AC blasting and guzzling water.

Stopped briefly at Sword beach, which was gorgeous and lively with folks enjoying a respite from the heat. A wonderful breeze was very welcome. As we drove along, I would read passages from a really good Time Life book about the history and importance of the battle and what we were seeing and passing. Starving, we swung into a grocery store along the way and picked up pre-made sandwiches for a very late lunch to munch on the way.

We wound along the coast, only able to glimpse Juno. Would have loved to stop, but wanted to ensure we had time at Arromanches before they closed for the day. We popped into a 360-degree video shown across nine screens on the 100 days of Normandy. Footage from US, British, French, and German sources, plus music, all woven into a mesmerizing story that required no narration. Overlooking both Gold and Omaha beaches, the remaining Phoenix caissons were incredibly impressive. Another brand new memorial for the anniversary with ghost-like metal figures made from welded washers was very powerful. The only snafu was realizing that my glasses fell out of my pack. Retracing my steps, I hear a crunch under the tire of a vehicle...yup, found 'em! :-/

Finally, we swung through the battery at Longues-sur-mer to see the German guns and massive concrete structures still standing, seemingly hardly touched by the intervening years. Rowan particularly enjoyed climbing on and around the artillery pieces and rolling down the hill, over and over! (The exuberance of our youthful and irrepressible 'monkey' helped keep the day from feeling oppressively heavy.) A neat temporary installation described the work archeologists are doing here (and along the entire Atlantic Wall).

Knowing they would be putting a lot of effort into what is realistically the final major anniversary for the dwindling numbers of veterans, this type of 'extras' is exactly why we came this summer.

Returning to our flat, we had dessert, cold drinks, cool shower, and then simply relaxed. Whew, another long day in a long line of long days! We are now exactly at the half-way point on our trip...one week behind us and another week ahead. Feels like we've been gone forever and I also know our remaining time with race by all too quickly...Read more