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Arrondissement de Langres

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    • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1
      3
      Päivä 41

      Day 38 - Villiers sur Suize to Langres

      28. toukokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      A short section of forest walking, a walk beside the Reservoir de la Mouche, and some long stretches of rural, dirt, roads (of various qualities) broke up a day of roadside walking on the "D", minor, roads. I saw what could have been a very large ferret run across the road ahead of me this morning and more evidence of France's Roman past. To get into Langres, you have to sharply decent 450m, and then climb the same! P.S. those bed warmers were in the breakfast room at the hotel in Villiers sur Suize. Oh, and I meant to add that I have just realised that I have passed my halfway point! My guidebook says that the walk to Grand Saint Bernard Pass is 1220.7 km, and I passed the 611 km mark before Lentilles. At Langres, I am 787 km from Canterbury and now have just 434 km to go!Lue lisää

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    • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1
      Päivä 39

      Day 36 - Chateauvillain to Villiers sur

      26. toukokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      A big day all around. Most of the walking was in or next to trees, interspersed with long stretches of walking in wide open spaces dominated by agriculture. I successfully navigated the 14.5 km without a map, assisted by the occasional way marker and my recently acquired digital map reading skills! I had a heart stopping encounter today; I was walking on a narrow, damp, wooded trail, and I saw an animal glowing in a patch of sun on the path ahead. Was it a cat? A cat without a tail? Then I saw the unmistakable swish of a tiny curly tail - it was a piglet! My first thought was, "Oh no, where's the mother," and I started to sing really loudly (a technique I picked up in the US to let bears know you are in the area so they can avoid you). It seemed to work as the piglet left the path. But no, when I got closer, it was just off the path with a second piglet. They seemed agitated, but I paused to take some photos all the while keeping an eye out for the mother. When I stepped forward, they ran off. Then I saw her, staring straight at me! I broke eye contact immediately (no pausing for a photo this time - that image is burnt into my brain). I got away as quickly, quietly, and calmly as I could, all the while scanning the area for any other pigs and looking back from time to time to make sure she hadn't decided to follow me. About 2 km further on, through some twists and turns and having seen my fourth deer (I saw my third yesterday, just outside of Clairvaux), I stopped on a, now, well-defined track to reflect on how rare an experience that was for someone like me. However, I don't want a repeat - that was the first time I have ever felt in any danger during my time here. Other things to report include seeing more remnants of France's Roman past and having an unfenced, unchained dog come at me (not a problem really, the tail was wagging so I knew I could ignore him). The box is a hunting post.Lue lisää

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    • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1
      2222
      Päivä 42

      Day 39 - Langres to Grandchamp

      29. toukokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      The steep ascent into Langres, on the back of 30+ km, took everything out of me yesterday. But I woke renewed and refreshed this morning. Now, I'm cross and have to vent. I've walked through a large number of residential communities here in France. They all have a church and a Mairie (local government). Some have a bakery (only sells bread), and bigger places might have a Tabac (a bar where you can buy coffee, maybe a meal, tabaco products and lottery tickets, etc.) If you are really lucky, there will be an Epiceries (groceries). But they don't usually open before 10 am, are closed between 12 - 4 pm, are usually closed on Wednesday and the weekend. As you can imagine, I've really struggled to ensure I have something to eat as I'm walking during the day. All I need is some fruit and cheese; when I can get it. So, when I saw a supermarket on my map as I was walking today, I thought it would be worth the diversion. I get there; CLOSED. Yet another public holiday! The fourth this month! I now have one apple and some nuts to tide me over until I find the next source of food. I walked 38 km today - 8 of which was a total waste. On a side note: I have a whole new respect for King Henry IV! The amount of land that man controlled is seriously impressive. Oh, I got a brief stint of canal walking (Canal Entre Champagne et Bourgogne), I walked the entire length, and more, of the Lac de la Liez, a lake, some lovely forest walking and the usual country lanes and minor roads. P.S. I found out that the public holiday is for Pinkster (Pentecost), celebrated 6 weeks after Easter!Lue lisää

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    • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1
      Päivä 40

      Day 37 - rest day (Villiers sur Suize)

      27. toukokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      I'm having a very quiet day today. My left thigh mounted some sort of a protest yesterday morning, and so I'm resting both legs as much as possible. I'd had some serious misgivings about this location (off Path) and the hotel here. All of which have proven to be totally unfounded. The room is spacious and comfortable, the shower excellent (the place at Chateauvillain had no hot water), and my meal last night was delicious (breakfast was good, too). A gaggle of geese came up to the restaurant last night to be fed - it must be a regular thing - they made such a racket, it was very cute and hilarious. I've managed to book my accommodation up until my next rest day, and I've managed to stay on the Path with one minor exception - so I'm feeling pretty good about that. Oh, and the Roman bath here is the deepest one I've seen so far.Lue lisää

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    • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1
      22222
      Päivä 43

      Day 40 - Grandchamp to Champlitte

      30. toukokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      After all my moaning and complaining; today was a perfect pilgrim day. As Bruce will say, along with many others, "The Camino provides." My accommodation last night was very special; a warm, welcoming and interesting host (Rene); excellent food; comfy bed; etc. - exactly what I needed. The walking today was pleasant and under 20 km! I saw my largest Roman bath to date, in Leffond, and tried to capture the white flowers blooming in the water plants in the Le Salon river. Along the Path, I met up with a young Italian woman, whom I'd met briefly yesterday, who finished up her work in the UK and is walking home via the Via Francigena! We separated, as she'd had a tough night camping and was taking a shortcut. That was just as well, as her pace far exceeds mine 😄. Further along, as I left the church in Leffond, a very nice woman approached me, and we had a lovely chat. Then, as I was leaving Leffond, a group of people called out to me and offered me a drink. My first instinct is to say "no thank you", BUT, as a pilgrim, I need to be open to all experiences, so I said, "Yes, please." Low and behold, there was another pilgrim with them, a Brit, they had also invited in as he was walking past! I spent the next hour and a half having a really lovely time chatting and drinking a couple of beers. As an Australian, I felt that obligation, LOL. Finally, Champlitte is beautiful, and the large chalet is now a museum. P.S. I should have mentioned that the supermarket here is open, and I've got my supplies for the next couple of days!!!!!!!Lue lisää

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    • MatkaajaAuf nach Spanien
      Päivä 18

      Schietwetter schafft Strecke

      13. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Heute sind wir wegen einem großen Regengebiet weiter Richtung Sète. Da wir mal einen neuen Camping-/Stellplatz suchen wollten ist der Traveller ziemlich lustig anzusehen 😂
      Aber die Plätze gefielen uns nicht oder es war ihnen die Lizenz für Womo etc. entzogen worden. Also sind wir auf den sehr überfüllten Stellplatz nahe dem Ort gelandet (Name siehe Foto). Aber gut für eine Nacht… Sonne war dann mal weg…. Aber schön war es, als mich plötzlich ein Freund ansprach, den ich in Portugal kennenlernte und wir uns über die Monate seitdem austauschen konnten 🌺Lue lisää

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    • MatkaajaVia @ 70
      Päivä 28

      Leffonds 0 miles

      9. elokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Not a good day.

      At all.

      Woke this morning, opened my eyes and turned my head. The room appeared to move from side to side and back, continuously. Very dizzy. Felt very squeamish. Managed to stand and make the 2 steps to the basin for some retching. Made it back to bed. Repeated every now and again. After what seemed like ages the room stopped moving as long as I kept my head perfectly still. This continued for 3 or 4 hours. Walking completely out of the question.

      Eventually seemed to get better. Left me quite light-headed and weak.
      Was able to get a doctor’s appointment who thought it was an inner ear or cervical spine issue. She didn’t seem too concerned. Gave me some medicine to take if it happens again. As well as taking me to the doctors my hostess gave me a lift to my next accommodation. I think she was quite keen to pass me on and free up my room. She did charge for the lift which is not unreasonable. I was a bit of an inconvenience all day.

      I am now in a cute wee caravan in a corner of a massive garden. Also in the garden are a couple of horses and loads of chickens. I was very controlled over a 4 course pilgrim’s dinner as still quite delicate. Hoping that a long sleep will make everything fine for tomorrow’s walk.

      On the plus side I think my feet quite enjoyed a day in bed.      Lue lisää

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    • MatkaajaVia @ 70
      Päivä 31

      Champlitte 15 miles

      12. elokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Well all I can say about last night is thank goodness I am only 5 ft 7 as I banged my head often enough even with that rather modest height. Just the strangest room I have ever slept in.

      While “enjoying” the usual rubbish breakfast it occurred to me that the pilgrim diet has virtually no fruit and vegetables at all and it is quite difficult to improve it. Nothing is available at breakfast unless you count orange juice. Lunch doesn’t usually happen at all except for a Snickers bar and dinner seldom has any veg options at all.

      So I made a mental note to try harder to source f & v whenever possible. Luckily today I passed a supermarket on the way out of town this morning and purchased a couple of bananas and a massive Pink Lady apple for lunch. Start as I mean to continue.

      Walking was fairly uneventful except for a thunderstorm for the last half hour. No point in getting the waterproofs out as I would be washing out my clothes as soon as I arrived anyway and it wasn’t cold.

      Managed to book a pilgrim’s place for tonight at the last minute. Quite relieved as I have avoided wild camping so far and I was in no hurry to start. This place is a bit grim - the shower has been blocked since the last occupant had a shower but it is only 20€ and so far I seem to be the only occupant. Just one bedroom with 2 sets of bunk beds crammed in.

      No restaurant but there is a supermarket in walkable distance. Went for gazpacho and a sort of “prawn on a bed of cold mixed veg” thing with a lemon meringue pie to follow. For those interested in such things a litre of gazpacho is quite a lot. And I have some things for breakfast/lunch tomorrow. Doing my best with the f & v stuff.      Lue lisää

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    • MatkaajaVia @ 70
      Päivä 30

      Chalindrey 16 miles

      11. elokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Woken by my fellow guests arriving at 1.30am. They then knocked on my door to ask if they could use the shower. Couldn’t really refuse although I really wanted them to go to bed asap. In the morning my sociability got the better of me as I stayed in bed until after they left. I’ve never needed much of an excuse to stay in bed of course.

      Big decision to make on the walking. The route took 16 miles to wander round a lake or I could take a road which got there in 6. It was a beautiful day and I had no excuse for the shortcut so I hoofed round the lake. Mostly in shade but still hot. Used the Tilley hat for only the second time. I suspect I look more of a prat than usual but too bad.

      Apparently all French cemeteries must have a drinking water tap. Don’t ask me why. Dead bodies don’t drink much I would have thought. But damned useful for the pilgrims. Especially on days like today when I couldn’t get enough water down me. (Sitting outside in 25C while writing this and drinking yet another litre of water. Don’t think I have had a pee all day - but you might not have wanted to know that. )

      In a chambre d’hote tonight again. As luck would have it on the hottest night so far I am in this wee room in the eaves with only a tiny window (see photo). Going to be sweaty one I think.

      I was told there was a fast food place nearby so I went out to look for it. Came upon a bar. Now I don’t think I have had a drink for at least a couple of weeks but the heat did make it seem quite appealing. Half of Leffe went down very well. Got instructions to the local chippie. Just like student days, following the pub with a chippie. Only managed half of it. Just don’t seem to have much of an appetite these days.

      Can’t see that lasting when I get home!      Lue lisää

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    • MatkaajaVia @ 70
      Päivä 29

      Langres 17 miles

      10. elokuuta 2023, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Incredible feeling to wake up to normality. Yesterday morning was such a dark time. I thought the Via dream was over. I had no idea how I was going to get home. Had no idea what had happened or how long it was going to continue. Maybe for ever?

      Such a relief it cleared up when it did. And able to get checked out and a lift to the next place was magic. Can happily wave two fingers to those crying cheat. After all, if an ancient pilgrim had pulled a sickie he would just have been put on a donkey for the day. So there. Let’s hear no more about it thank you very much.

      Once I had got over the excitement of being able to get out of bed this morning I was looking forward to breakfast. There being a large chicken run I felt sure there would be a couple of fresh boiled eggs for breakfast. Planned a cute photo of two opened soft eggs, yolk running down nicely, especially for the Buc, him being such a fan of such things. No such luck. The French breakfast really is quite limited. Bread and jam or honey if you are lucky.

      It was great to get back in the groove with the walking. Blue sky most of the day. Nothing much to report there.

      When you are flicking through the usual boring photos of paths disappearing into the distance take a second look at the one with a road going off slightly right and a track going straight on because this caught me out. The map showed my route as continuing on the road, ignoring the track. Which is what I did. Checked in about another half mile and I was way out. Had to walk back to the junction and take the track. About the first time the map has been downright wrong. Not a very happy bunny.

      Was surprisingly tired when I reached Langres although that was partly because it is one of these old stuck on top of a hill, with ramparts all round, villages. Very picturesque to be sure but a steep uphill slog isn’t appreciated at the end of the day.

      Staying in an AirBnB place. No idea what the British ones are like but this one is a straightforward 2 bedroom apartment with one bathroom. I am in one bedroom and another couple is in the other and we share the bathroom, kitchen and living room. Just seems odd to me. I just hope they make allowances for pilgrims who like to sleep from 10 to 8 and take occasional trip to the bathroom in between. Funnily enough there was no room in the rucksack for a nice pair of winceyette pyjamas so I hope they are broad minded.

      Found a creperie for dinner. I am thinking it might be my favourite type of restaurant here. They seem to open early. One pancake is about all I can manage anyway and they are pretty cheap. Tonight’s offering was a fancy crepe with the usual litre of sparkling water. Job done for 15€.      Lue lisää

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