France
Arrondissement de Lodève

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    • Day 8

      Le première semaine à Montpellier

      April 21 in France ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

      Salut! Maintenant cela fait déjà une semaine mais j'ai l'impression que c'était un jour. J' ai véçu beaucoup des choses par exemple nous sommes allés à la plage ou nous avons fait du jopping à Montpellier. Nous avons aussi mangé beaucoup. À Montpellier on peut faire deux choses. On peut manger beaucoup et acheter beaucoup de choses. Et j' ai oublié qu'on peut aller beaucoup. Mais je pense c'est la vie. Comme beaucoup de Français diraient. Aujourd'hui nous sommes allés à Carcasonn, c'est une petite ville avec un chateau. Ronja et moi, nous avons trouvé des lunettes très cool. Nous voulions acheter les lunettes pour Monsieur Leichtle, mais il était un peu chère:)))
      Je pourrais en dire beaucoup plus, mais je pense que c'est suffisant pour l'instant.
      À bientôt Vivienne
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    • Day 91

      Cirque de Mourèze

      May 2, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Am Sonntag sind wir weitergezogen vom Mas de Riri in der terre rouge. Wir wollten uns noch den "Cirque de Mourèze", ebenfalls ein herausragendes Naturphänomen im Gebiet des Lac de Salagou, anschauen - und sind da nach kaum 15km gleich wieder hängengeblieben. Mourèze - ebenfalls ein sehr schöner und besuchenswerter kleiner Ort - hat uns mit seinen bizarren weissen Gesteinsformationen (Dolomit) total überrascht.
      Der "circuit touristique" tönt zwar harmlos, hat aber die Qualitäten/Passagen einer mittleren Alpstein-Wanderung.
      Renata staunte über sich selbst, welch wilde, schöne und eindrückliche Wanderung sie schließlich bewältigt hatte.
      Mourèze hat ein eigenes Parkangebot für Camper (7 €) inklusive Ver-/Entsorgung in angenehm ruhiger Aussichtslage. Von hier weg geht's nun auf den Heimweg. Ein weiterer Kreis schließt sich; wehmütig-freudig.
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    • Day 87

      Terre rouge - am Lac de Salagou

      April 28, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Eigentlich ist es wieder mal der Zufall, der uns in dieses höchst überraschende Tal des Salagou geführt hat. Eine vulkanisch geprägte Landschaft mit einzigartigen geologischen Phänomenen. Bei ausgesprochen roten Erde wähnt man sich in einer Art Wüste, oder auf Lanzarote? Tatsächlich hätte sich hier gewissermaßen die Erde nach oben gekehrt, Basaltstrukturen wechseln mit roten Erosionsformen, den sogenannten "ruffes", und bilden hier ein ganz spezielles Mikroklima. Dass Ende der sechziger Jahre hier ein Stausee aufgestaut wurde, scheint der Flora und Fauna ausgesprochen zuträglich zu sein.
      Der kleine, einfache und unkomplizierte Campingplatz des Mas de Riri mit Stellplätzen direkt am Wasser fasziniert uns auf Anhieb. Der richtige Ort, um unsere Reise hier abzurunden. Auch das Kajak kommt hier nochmals zum Einsatz. Einfach schön.
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    • Day 13

      At St-Jean-de-la-Blaquiere

      April 22 in France ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

      We arrived here at about 2pm, after one of the most spectacular walks we’ve ever done, and that is saying something! But we did not do the 8 hour, étape difficile, that the Book which is in French, warned us about. Instead, after a long and rather difficult stage yesterday we decided we would not enjoy an even longer and more difficult one today. So after studying the Book, and finding that today started with a 3 hour difficult ascent (and we could see the huge rocky hillsides all around us!) we decided to organise a taxi to shorten the distance. And it was such a wonderful plan…our lovely hotel lady rang to organise it last night, and we were picked up at 9.30 and taken to a town, Arboras, which is actually a bit more than half the distance! But we are not proud, we just wanted to enjoy the day, and not endure it…

      So the taxi dropped us off, right where there was a GR and chemin de Compostelle sign, and we set off happily. And the whole of today the way was well marked, never worried that we may have gone off track. And it is still cold…in fact today was the coldest yet, and in the high spots the wind felt icy! In the end I took off my hat which was annoyingly flapping in the strong wind, and just put up my jacket hood, and Amr had his hood over his new hat!

      So we only had a walk of about 12 kms, but this was the part that Book said was difficile, and we did it knowing we could be slow and careful (don’t want to spoil things with a twisted ankle…) and pause and admire the view and not just be intent on reaching a destination. And so began our wonderful walk. From Arboras we walked at first among a valley of vineyards and then did a very long ascent, even higher than the one out of St Guilhem, all the while looking down at the view of the valley from the heights. We could see Arboras in the distance and were amazed at how high we were. Photos just can’t capture the scene, but will put some up anyway, but they won’t do justice to the beauty.

      There were a few other walkers on the track today…one man who zipped past so quickly on the uphill - we barely had time to say bonjour before he was gone - and on the downhill to our amazement 2 cyclists whizzed past…riding over the boulders, roots, zigzagging around trees!!…and also another woman who is also staying in this town. After the exhilarating uphill we started the inevitable descent, which was the difficult part - the book had warned of sliding rocks, slippery slopes etc, and it was a bit of a tricky narrow path, but not as bad as we feared, and wonderful views over the other side. We found a perfect picnic table in the sun for lunch, but it was just too windy…and by then only a few kms from St Jean, so we continued on, and found a slightly more sheltered and sunny seat in the main square near the Mairie and ate there, as we were fairly early, and often accommodation places don’t want you to arrive before 3.

      But at about 2.30 we headed off to this wonderful place, an oasis! It was another kilometre from the centre of town, not in the direction of the camino - great today, but would have been a lot after an 8 hour walk! It is a B and B run by a delightful couple, who welcomed us, gave us a beer and cake, and with whom we will have dinner tonight as we are the only guests! They like Australians and Australia as they lived in Perth and their daughter is in Nice living with a group of Aussies. So we can comfortably speak French and English! Now we are relaxing totally and will have dinner at 7.
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    • Day 14

      French pilgrimage finished - in Lodeve

      April 23 in France ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

      We have arrived in Lodève, French walk finished! We feel quite proud, as it wasn’t easy walking, but certainly spectacular. We have checked into our very nice Hotel De La Paix, and booked to have dinner here at 8. Amr is, surprise surprise, off to the laundromat to wash everything, and I’m happily sitting in the room in shorts (all that’s left not being washed) and with 2 tops and my jacket still feel cold…I look back at photos of walking a couple of days ago and I was just in a t-shirt and can’t imagine it….today we did 16 kms of strenuous walking with fleece and jacket on all day and not even sweaty!! …and yesterday the same, but didn’t have my fleece and wished I did!

      Anyway, first last night’s dinner…it was rather like a couple of years ago in France when we stayed at a guest house, we had dinner with the hosts, Martine and Guy, such lovely people. The season is just starting and we were the only people. They can take 14 people, but only do dinner for 4….so we had a delicious home cooked meal in their dining room overlooking the valley! Just beautiful. Started with endive, egg and crumbled cheese salad, then pork fillets and potatoes with very tasty onion sauce and a raspberry tapioca dessert. Comfort food! And we had fun and lively conversation…half French and half English…and this morning we had breakfast there before we set off.

      They had told us a shortcut to get to the GR without going the km back to the village, a path at the end of the vineyard and across the creek, but Amr this time wanted to be authentic and we walked back and started from the square, following the true path! After quite a while we thought we must have passed where we would have joined in from the guest house, as we were out in the wilderness and had been walking several kms, but then suddenly we saw their Domaine through the trees on the other side of the valley… it would have been a true shortcut.

      We knew from the graph that today’s walk was basically a big climb, then going along for quite a way along the top plateau, then a descent into Lodeve. But the Book said it was a short (15km) stage and somehow implied easy…but it wasn’t really easy, the big ascent was most of the time very rough loose stones and roots that needed concentration, and also the descent at the end was also potentially treacherous! But of course the views were spectacular and it was very exhilarating! But we didn’t saunter into Lodeve in time for lunch!! And it continued to be so cold, with the icy wind blowing a gale, specially when we were at the exposed spots at the top…Amr said his app said it was 42 km/hr at one stage, but not sure if that was the max…sometimes you could hardly walk against it. But we are lucky, despite the cold wind, it remained sunny and blue sky. So many wildflowers out now - we saw lots of lavender and irises, which you associate with this part of the world, and the new oak leaves are so bright and beautiful.

      After about 12 kms we realised we needed a break, and tried to find a semi sheltered stone to sit and eat…very pleasant, but about 50 metres further we found the perfect spot, tables, sheltered and a superb view ….too late - if only we’d ventured just a bit further!

      This hotel is part of a chain we loved when we were on the walk from Vézelay, and where we always seemed to have the surprisingly superb meals…so here’s hoping for tonight. Tomorrow we take a bus to Montpellier where we stay for 2 nights before getting a train to Barcelona on Friday. Just a little break between walks! But we are familiar with the Camino walking, and there is no tough bush walking there like we have had for the last 3 days, so we feel very relaxed!
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    • Day 12

      At St-Guilhem-le-Désert, a long walk!

      April 21 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Today we didn’t swan in at 2.30 and have the afternoon to relax and explore…we staggered in at 5, a long time, but only 22 kms - it was hard work rather than long distance! And we did pause a few times - for lunch, for coffee/chocolate, to help rescue a dog, and when we looked at the Devil’s Bridge and got a little off course! But we survived, and actually our legs are feeling good and we’ve just come back from exploring the village which is on the side of a hill, and extremely charming. Very much a tourist place, but also deservedly one of the plus beaux villages de France.

      We left Montpellier at about 9 and were driven to Montarnaud (not by Cyril but by Cyril’s friend!). So we set off and found that the climb that we knew was ahead was on very difficult paths - loose stones, just such slow progress…once we reached the top it wasn’t too bad…we went along the top of a plateau, sometimes loose stones, but sometimes easier terrain …it was completely different countryside from previously - we were up in the wild rocky hills, sort of Cézanne territory…not tall lush forests, rather scrubby bushes and trees…but wildly beautiful.

      We stopped for lunch when we were about half way there by our reckoning, about 1 or later.. there was, according to the Book, meant to be a choice to take the GR or a short cut through an old railway tunnel for 300 metres…but the choice never happened as we just followed GR signs (which then were along an ex railway line, so it was flat but now a path of more loose stones) and never saw mention of the tunnel, however we were happy to arrive at the next village, which was for once awake and there was a choice of bars to pause and have coffee!

      After that we had an amazing section of walking through vineyards - suddenly this wild area was filled with myriads of picturesque vineyards…so beautiful, and we felt that the end was in sight…we thought (hoped) it was about 5 kms to go, and when we saw a village coming up, we assumed it was ours.

      So we happily walked along, saw quite a few walkers along the route, being a beautiful Sunday afternoon. We came upon one group of 4 walkers having trouble - their dog had jumped into the canal and couldn’t get out, and they couldn’t reach him…he was just dog paddling and waiting for help! There were sloping concrete edges, and he kept sliding. In the end Amr suggested using some fence-railings lying there from workers, and they managed to put it down and use it as a sort of ladder and pull the poor dog out! Very grateful to Amr for the idea…

      Then we came to the Pont du Diable, the Devil’s bridge, a big feature on the map, historic bridge, and the town just above…I went off the official route to go on the bridge, and look at the view (we are now in an enormous spectacular gorge)…then we suddenly saw the signs to the town and realised it was another one, that was several inches away on the map from our destination!! Such disappointment!

      Our dog friends were horrified and said that is an hour’s walk!! We said we had been walking since 9.30, and would be ok…and it was, but it did seem endless, along the shoulder of a rather busy road most of the time, everyone going home after their Sunday doings. There was canoeing in the gorge, people had been sunbaking on the banks seen from the Devil’s bridge….we are now half way up the gorge here, the running river way below at the bottom, and towering rocky cliff faces above. Amazing changes in one day.

      Finally we found this delightful village, our hotel was the first one we saw, so happy to arrive, bags in room and all good. And now back from a perfect meal here (included tonight), and ready for bed. AND I forgot to say, that while wandering in the village, we got Amr a hat! Very funny, made in Nepal (better than the other cheaper and more normal looking ones made you know where!
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    • Day 180

      Heimreise Teil I - Fontes

      March 13 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Kurz vor 18 Uhr erreichen wir den Campingplatz in Fontes. Wir haben die mautfreie Strecke in Frankreich gewählt. Viele Kreisverkehr gleich nach der Grenze zeigen uns in welchem Land wir nun unterwegs sind. Die ersten Kilometer werden wir wohl das nächste Mal wieder auf der A9 bleiben.
      An so manches müssen wir uns erst wieder gewöhnen. Z. B. 9.70€ für ein großes Bier 🍻...
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    • Day 7

      Saint-Jean-de-Védas

      July 28, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Regnerisch ging der Tag los in Barcelona und wir waren froh zu gehen. So schön es war, aber wir sind einfach Landeier.
      Wir fuhren mal drauf los, über Lloret de Mar und der Costa Brava entlang.
      Wäre eigentlich solch eine schöne Gegend aber wir hatten leider Nieselregen und es stank recht nach Urin.
      Wir entschieden uns dann Richtung Frankreich zu gehen.
      Viele Hotels/Airbnbs waren schon weg und wir entschieden uns für eines bei Montpellier.
      Zum Glück! Es entpuppte sich als wahrer Glückgriff!

      Wir holten um die Ecke bei Aldi was zu knabbern und genossen endlich mal einen Abend mit Netflix & Chill.
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    • Day 117

      Gendarmerie

      February 28 in France ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

      Und dann kommt das böse Erwachen. Als wir weiter fahren wollen entdeckt Karl, dass Fahrer- und Beifahrertür nicht mehr abgeschlossen und nur angelehnt sind. Das Schloss der Aufbautür ist beschädigt. Es ist eingebrochen worden.
      Es stellt sich heraus, dass auch bei zwei unserer Nachbarn die Türen geöffnet wurden. Einer hat nichts mitbekommen. Ihm wurden 100€ und eine Jeans geklaut. Der andere hat es gemerkt und die Diebe wohl verscheucht.
      Bei uns wurde der Sonnenschutz für die Fenster vom Fahrerhaus geklaut. In die Kabine sind sie nicht reingekommen. Entweder sie haben das Schloss nicht auf bekommen oder wurden gestört.
      Wir haben die Polizei gerufen. Die beiden anderen verzichten auf eine Anzeige. Wir müssen aufs Revier weil wir die Anzeige für die Versicherung brauchen.
      Also nochmal fast 40 km zurück. Wir werden auf dem Revier schon erwartet. Der Papierkram war schnell erledigt und wir dürfen sogar ein Erinnerungsfotos machen. Aber es ist schon Mittag als wir endlich weiter kommen.
      Zum Glück ist nichts schlimmeres passiert. Vermutlich wurden die Codes der Fernbedienungen beim Schließen der Türen ausgelesen. Das erklärt, warum an keinem der Fahrzeuge Beschädigungen waren. Unsere Aufbautür hatten wir manuell geschlossen, deshalb hatten sie den Code nicht und versuchten das Schloss zu knacken.
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    • Day 31

      34ème étape ~ Lac du Salagou

      September 2, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Cet après midi, retour à une activité en amoureux.
      Découverte du lac avec sa plage de roches rouges. Beaucoup de vent, ce qui a rafraîchi notre baignade mais n’a pas empêché le barbu et Mélody de faire une petite sieste. Nous avons aussi découvert des habitants aquatiques pas du tout commodes. 🦞Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arrondissement de Lodève, Arrondissement de Lodeve

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