Arrondissement de Rodez

We had breakfast at the same table as at dinner, looking out on the street and hoping the drizzle would hold off. It was a larger offering than at the convent, with teapots there for tea. It is strange that breakfast can be so important when you have no control over what it might be.

We started at 8:10 along the Lot river. It was overcast, so Anne had her poncho, but I thought I would be too hot with it. After 5km we were at a lovely old chapel (St Pierre) , followed by a steep 180m hill - up and down in a lot of mud. There was almost a rivulet in the middle of the path coming down. Landed at another old chapel and chateau ( Verrieres) before another 150m hill, then down to Estaing (think Giscard d’Estaing) with its 1,000 year old castle/ chateau and church. We were there around 11:15.

St Come was stunning, but so were St Chely, Espalion and now Estaing. We toured the chateau, looked in the church, took too many photos, bought a baguette and set off for Golinhac as the church bell rang 12.

The first 8km from Estaing were all uphill. There was a steady 350m rise as we went along the dammed river (hydro-electric) then up... through a forest, over farmland, more forests and occasional roads, then slowly down 100m and up the same 100m to Golinhac, which is on top of a ridge with spectacular views from W to N to E.

We were both pretty weary by the time we reached our small hotel around 3:30. It was easy to find as it is the only hotel in a very small hamlet. The cleaner/ waitress/ receptionist showed us to the accommodation (maybe 7 rooms) which meant going outside and back in, and when we came in WE HAD TWO BAGS! La Malle Postale must have learned from and modernised the Yam, (although the Celts rather than the Mongols used to be here). Bliss is a second pair of shoes and clean clothes, plus wet-weather gear, gloves and poles.

Golinhac has a population of 355, so walking around it later did not take long, but it is old, neat and has amazing views. Our interesting fact for the day was that town names ending in -hac or -ac indicate a Celtic past.

Hotel Auberge de Golinhac: 1 Wifi very erratic. 2 No tea or coffee. 3 Bed okay. 4 Dinner was good - great cheese salad. 5 Basic breakfast. 6 Great view.

40,600 steps, 32.6km and 157 flights. Maybe 1,000 steps less than the longest day in Japan, but 110 extra flights of stairs. Knees and ankles confirm it.Read more