France
Lirou

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    • Bitter memories

      November 27, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      Saint-Nazaire Cathedral. The original VIIth church was destroyed by Vandals and this mid-Gothic one dates from the XIVth C. The altar is quite different from Northern ones and from the Spanish ones I found. The rose window is 10m across and the vaulted nave 14m wide, reaching a height of 32m.

      Like the Chelsea Pensioners Hospital, the Romans established a town on the road that linked Provence with Iberia for veterans in 36–35 BC, called Colonia Julia Baeterrae Septimanorum.
      They built on a location used since Neolithic times, before the Celts arrived. Béziers dates from 575 BC, making it older than Agde (Greek Agathe Tyche, founded in 525 BC) and a bit younger than Marseille (Greek Massalia, founded in 600 BC). The inhabitants have been known as Biterrois ever since, and have every right to be bitter as everyone seems to think they can boss the locals around.

      We have seen the Catholic Church imposing its will by sanctioning territorial ambition, and a similar event followed Louis Napoléon's coup d'état in 1851, when troops fired on Republican protesters in Béziers. Those not shot then were captured and either condemned to death or transported to French Guiana. In the Place de la Révolution, outside the Cathedral and the old Palais de Justice, Jean Antoine Injalbert carved a monument to the 3200 deported souls. The bust on top enscribed RF stands for Republique Francaise, the woman represents the failed rebels and the bust is of a former mayor who died trying to escape.
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    • Acres of mass

      November 20, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      In linking Toulouse and Beziers as the start and end point of his canal, maybe PPR was reminding us of their shared 13thC catastrophe when Rome was scandalised by Catharism, with such dangerous doctrines as not needing the intervention of priests to gain salvation and not giving tons of money to Rome, which was attracting too many converts in in Southern France. Pope Innocent III sent preachers to convert the Cathars, but called a crusade after his legate, Pierre of Castelnau, was killed in January 1208.

      A Crusading army was formed in Lyon and arrived in Beziers in 1209, motivated more by spiritual umbrage than by Innocent’s declaration that they would be entitled to keep any land seized from heretics. Under the command of another papal legate, Arnaud Amalric, Abbot of Cîteaux the army arrived at Béziers and called for the surrender of the Cathars and local Catholics. Some Catholics to their credit refusing to betray the few hundred Cathars in their midst to the glories of martyrdom, and the heretics took sanctuary in the Holy Catholic Church of St Madeleine. (Only restored last year.) So when the walls fell, it was mostly orthodox Catholics killing orthodox Catholics. Well, what’s a crusading army with other cities to sack supposed to do?

      "When they discovered, from the admissions of some of them, that there were Catholics mingled with the heretics they said to the abbot “Sir, what shall we do, for we cannot distinguish between the faithful and the heretics.” The abbot, like the others, was afraid that many, in fear of death, would pretend to be Catholics, and after their departure, would return to their heresy, and is said to have replied “Kill them all for the Lord knoweth them that are His” (2 Tim. ii. 19) and so countless number in that town were slain." (Caesar of Heisterbach)

      "And they killed everyone who fled into the church; no cross or altar or crucifix could save them. And these raving beggarly lads, they killed the clergy too, and the women and children. I doubt if one person came out alive … such a slaughter has not been known or consented to, I think, since the time of the Saracens." (William of Tudela, cited in Cathar Castles)

      Amarlic and Milo, a fellow legate, in a letter to the Pope, claim that the crusaders "put to the sword almost 20,000 people.

      Simon de Montfort, a prominent French nobleman, was then appointed leader of the Crusader army and was granted control of the area encompassing Carcassonne, Albi, and Béziers. After the fall of Carcassonne, other towns surrendered without a fight. Albi, Castelnaudary, Castres, Fanjeaux, Limoux, Lombers and Montréal all fell quickly.
      Although his first siege of Toulouse in 1211 was unsuccessful, he defeated the city's army two years later and then appointed himself as count before he himself died at the Siege of Toulouse in 1218. Many more thousands perished.

      Following all these disturbances, the University of Toulouse was established by the 1229 Treaty of Paris. Their basic courses in theology and Aristotelian philosophy were beefed up to combat heresy. The Dominican monastic order was founded, with its home in the Couvent des Jacobins de Toulouse. A nearly four-century holy inquisition began, centred in the city.

      Not a lot of people know this.
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    • Day 49

      Carmargue - Béziers

      October 14, 2020 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Vi forlader langsomt Carmargues ved at tage den lille kabelfærge Bac de Sauvage over Petit Rhône og køre mod Aigues-Mortes. Der kan være 8 biler på færgen, og autocampere er ikke tilladt, men Passepartout er så lille, så vi får lov at komme med! Der er foruden os kun en anden bil, 4 cyklister og 3 ryttere med deres heste! Landskabet ændrer sig langsomt til flere og flere vinmarker, men vi er stadig tæt på Middelhavet med indsøer og kanaler og om sommeren sikkert en masse turister! Jeg tror heller ikke, at jeg vil anbefale at besøge Camargue om sommeren. Kæmpe parkeringspladser der ligger tomme nu, vidner om mange mennesker om sommeren! Og så snakker alle også om myggeplagen! Men her om efteråret (og vinter/forår) er det en lille oase i et ellers koldt og vådt Europa.
      Sidst på eftermiddagen kommer vi til Beziers, hvor vi går en tur langs med den gamle kanal (bygget i 1600 tallet): le Canal du Midi, der forbinder Toulouse i vest med Middelhavet. Her i Beziers, er der en berømt strækning med 9 sluser (eller rettere 1 sluse med 8 bassiner og 9 porte), og kanalen er stadig i brug! Lige ved siden af ligger en lille vingård (Domaine Mi-Cote) der lader autocampere parkere gratis. Man kan endda smage deres vin, og så selvfølgelig købe noget. Så det gør vi i aften!
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    • Day 22–23

      Live from Beziers!

      November 18 in France ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Magnificent cathedral with beginnings from 8th century. A Roman bridge from 1st century leads to it. So gorgeous it feels like we are in a dream

    • Day 4

      Béziers, Frankreich

      March 22, 2016 in France ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Nach einem Zwischenstop in Narbonne geht es weiter nach Bézier.
      Wir stellen hier leider fest, dass die Franzosen zwischen 15 und 19 Uhr nichts essen und alle Restaurants geschlossen haben. Nach langer Suche haben wir in Narbonne wenigstens Crêpes bekommen und noch eine Kirche besichtigt bevor wir weiter nach Bezier gefahren sind.
      Hier haben wir dann auch was richtiges zu Essen gefunden mit einem einzigartigen Inhaber und einem fantastischen Koch.
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    • Day 10

      Beziers zum Zweiten

      March 26, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      Da sind wir doch tatsächlich hier in Beziers hängen geblieben. Nach einer mjammmi Weinprobe gestern Abend lud uns der Winzer ein, noch eine Nacht zu bleiben. Somit machten wir uns am späten Vormittag auf in die Altstadt. Schmale Gässchen, Fenster mit bunten Läden und den typischen Balkongeländern, spannende Parkduelle, ein Schokocroissant am Flussufer und tolle alte Architektur - Frankreich pur!
      Am Nachmittag holten wir uns den ersten Sonnenbrand des Jahres, aber mit Unterstützung von Rotwein, Käse und Baguette ließen sich die Schmerzen gut aushalten😋.
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    • Day 19

      Beziers

      October 5, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Eine tolle alte Stadt mit alter römischer Tradition. Die Altstadt ist nur über hunderte Stufen oder per Fahrstuhl zu erreichen gewesen vom Touriparkplatz. Oben dann enge Gassen mit kleinen Geschäften, später münden die am Theater in einen großen Boulevard, der auch in Paris sein könnte. Petra wurde sogar bei Galeries Lafayette fündig und hat sich warmen Pulli für den Herbst gekauft, der uns jetzt erwartet.Read more

    • Day 3

      Béziers

      September 15, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Este dia empezó bien, estábamos motivados y habíamos desayuno con hambre de mundo. Lamentablemente no todos los inicios son buenos y después de salir de casa de la abuela y bajar del primer coche nos dimos cuenta que mi compañera olvidó la cartera en ese coche. Nos dimos cuenta después de alejarnos hasta la altura de Béziers que no la tenia, para llegar hasta allí tuvimos que subir a un coche de una señora que iba a 175 km/h, fumando y bebiendo café, al lado tenía al hijo y nosotros atrás, me produjo un poco de pánico. La señora no nos dejó en Béziers, nos dejó en la parte más alejada de un polígono, donde no pasaban mucho coches y tuvimos que esperar muchas horas. Mientras hablábamos del bolso perdido y de lo que íbamos a hacer. Decidimos volver a su casa, para que si lo encuentren lo lleven allí y si no para hacer nuevos documentos. Aclarado eso fuimos a Béziers ya que allí tendríamos más posibilidades de encontrar a alguien que vaya a Perpinyà y de allí al pueblo de mi compañera. Llegamos a la ciudad, no había trenes, subimos a un bus que llegó tarde y destrozados llegamos al pueblo, comimos y nos fuimos a dormir. Fue un día revuelto 😵‍💫Read more

    • Béziers Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire

      July 29, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Kurzstopp in Béziers aux Pont Vieux und der Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire. Die Westfassade wird von zwei Türmen flankiert, ein weiterer, runder und zinnenbewehrter Wachtturm findet sich zurückversetzt. Die Rosette hat einen Durchmesser von zehn Metern.Read more

    • Day 10

      Travel day to Milan

      July 17, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Sunday 17th July
      Barcelona Sants- Valence- Chambery Challes Les Eaux - Milan

      We set out on the Barcelona Sants to Valence train at 8:15 am, leaving the 'sea' city behind. The taxi arrived at 7.30 am outside the hostel for the 15 minute drive. We pass by dozens of shuttered shop fronts decorated with grafitti, all-nighters returning from an evening of clubbing. There are the children's playgrounds and embedded trampoline patches empty ready for a day of bouncing on.

      The train is going back the way we came, so it's going back up through France. The seats have an interior like a 1970' s coach: all orange and velvety. It has a lovely buffet bar that you can walk around in and look at the scenery whilst you drink your coffee. We haven't had breakfast so I get the kids a doughnut and croissant.

      We've got a connecting train from Valence to Chambery Challeses les Eaux at 13.23. We arrive in time at Valence and walk over the concourse to the platform but the train to Chambery is late and then more late. Our connecting train to Milan is at 15.44 so we know we've probably missed it.

      We haven't had lunch and I can hear my kids tummys rumbling. Our fellow travellers are mumbling the usual disgruntled dialogue that go with late trains. I look next to me and there's a group of young people running some sort of tour with a small group of younger people. I ask one man dressed in a green tshirt who speaks perfect English, he says: the train is 30 minutes late as its got stuck. So I think ill risk running to get some sandwiches. But by the time I get to the counter Stanley has followed me up to tell me the train is coming in!

      The train carries us over the southern region of France with small gijts and fields of sunflowers, cypress trees and looming mountains in the distance.

      We wait 2 hours for the next train at Chambery. We catch our third and final train to Milan which will take four hours. We dont have a reservation for this train so we sit in the vestibule area which has handy small table area. After some confused tetris style lugging of rucksacks we settle down. Then after 40 minutes three French customs people with bullet proof vests appear with a sniffer dog (a black labarador called Max). After questioning a young man about his silver suitcase they go up and down the carriage checking random people. After realising there's nothing juicy to find Max the dog slumps to the ground in the heat.

      There's lot of passport checks by policeman with firearms in their belts or border agency staff which is a bit intimidating but adds to the experience and entertainment that breaks up the long journey.

      We've travelled through three countries and at one point everyone apart from us is speaking all three. Its a Sunday so there are teary lovers kissing their farewells. Families hugging. Maybe it's an end of a holiday or the beginning of a new one?

      The first stop in Italy is Turin so a lot of people get off. Then we finally nab some seats taking us into the night of Milan-Garibaldi train station.

      We've been travelling for over 12 hours and it's nearly 10pm, we've mastered the quick metro buying ticket technique and set off to the east of the city called Lamberate. Its a short walk by the side of train line and tenement houses with poor lighting. I'm really tired but alert to that fact it's probably not the best place to be wandering about so we quicken our pace under a pedestrian tunnel to the lights of Mio hostel on the right for our 'pit stop' sleep for one night before going to Venice tomorrow.
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