Reset search
Overlanding Through Africa
  • Happy Days Travel
  • Mark Wade
  • Happy Days Travel
  • Mark Wade

Overlanding Through Africa

This is the big one - the trip we have been planning since before the pandemic! We will be overlanding from South Africa 🇿🇦 to Kenya 🇰🇪 passing through 9 other countries and taking four months. Read more
+5
FollowInsightsInsightsCalendarCalendarPhotosPhotosShareShareBucket list
InsightsCalendarPhotos
  • Overlanding Through Africa

    A free day

    July 17, 2023 in Zimbabwe ☀️ 24 °C

    Today was a free day. We had decided not to do any of the optional activities, so we spent the day on site. We had breakfast with the others at 8am. The newbies seem OK – time will tell 😊. The t-shirt guy turned up while we were eating. Unfortunately, Namibia was completely missing from our signpost, and the route was wrong. He took them away again, promising to fix them and bring them back later!

    After breakfast, Patrick and Laban had to go to the police station to have the truck checked. A baboon got inside yesterday and managed to crack the windscreen while he was trying to get out! We needed to get permission to drive the truck in its current state and then get it fixed in Bulawayo, our next stop. They came back a couple of hours later with the necessary permit.

    I spent the morning doing posts, but the internet connection was very slow, so I didn’t get anywhere near caught up. Mark went to the supermarket to top up our snack bag. At lunchtime, he made pasta with tomatoes and bacon, which hit the spot. After lunch, I tried again to get some more posts on, and I edited some photos. I was sitting in the sunshine outside reception, so I kept being interrupted by people coming and going to activities! By 4pm, I gave up. We went to the bar for a couple of drinks and then went to retrieve the laundry we left this morning. They promised us it would be back by 5.30pm, but it wasn’t! TIA!! 😂 It finally turned up at about 7.15pm! We then went to the truck to sort out our bags for the next couple of days. None of the crew were around to ask about our T-shirts, so we’ll have to leave that until the morning.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust

    July 18, 2023 in Zimbabwe ☀️ 14 °C

    We were up at 6am to shower, pack, and at the truck for 7am breakfast. It was nice not to have to take down a tent! It was the first morning proper of the new group and there were a few teething problems! We are in new chore groups. My group is on food prep today, and Mark’s group is on truck. We had to advise the newbies in the wash-up group about how to flap!! There was some confusion about where everyone was sitting on the truck, and there is a distinct lack of space as all the newbies have stored their big bags where the sleeping mats should go! I’m sure everyone will settle in in the next couple of days – fingers crossed!

    We were on the road by 8am for a short 30-minute drive to visit the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, a project supported by Intrepid. We had a talk about the Trust’s work. It was fascinating to learn about how they work with local communities to manage the conflict between humans and animals. They also have a comprehensive anti-poaching programme. We visited the lab to find out about research the scientists are doing into diseases which are affecting the wildlife. They rescue injured animals and release them back into the wild. The one exception is a 10-year-old white-backed vulture which has been at the Trust since she was a fledgling. One of her wings is deformed, so she is unable to fly. She couldn’t survive in the wild, so is cared for at the facility, and has become the Trust’s ambassador. With a life expectancy of around 50 years, she could be in the role for a very long time!    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Driving to Bulawayo

    July 18, 2023 in Zimbabwe ☀️ 26 °C

    After our visit, we were back on the road for our long drive to Bulawayo. We stopped for a roadside lunch of sandwiches and salads, along with the obligatory bushy bushy! We were all shocked at the amount of toilet paper in the bush! It can only be from other overland trucks. What on earth is wrong with people??

    While we were eating, Laban explained to us about Zimbabwe’s political history. Despite the ousting of dictator Robert Mugabe in 2017, no criticism of the current Zimbabwean government is allowed. There is no opposition. People are banned from speaking out.

    As we drove deeper into Zimbabwe, we passed mile after mile of deserted bush. When we did see a village, it felt very different from the ones we’ve seen in the countries we have passed through so far. There were far more brick and concrete built houses, and more people had gardens with flowers. We also drove through a very polluted coal-mining district. Most of the coal mined here is exported to China. The area is too toxic to live in, so workers are bussed in every day from some considerable distance away.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    A shopping stop in Bulawayo

    July 18, 2023 in Zimbabwe ☀️ 20 °C

    We were delayed due to slow-moving coal lorries and the appalling state of the pot-holed roads, so we didn’t arrive into Bulawayo until about 5.45pm. It was already getting dark. Henry needed to do some grocery shopping, so we stopped for 30 minutes. It was weird being in a busy city after so many miles of nothingness! We only had time to pick up some essentials (like beer and crisps!) before we had to be back on the truck to drive to Burke’s Paradise, our camp for the next two nights.

    When we got there, we had to help Henry carry all our gear to set up the camp kitchen as it was a distance from the truck. Then, as people started putting up their tents, we spoke to Vicky, our host, about upgrading to a private room. It was only US$20 a night for a double room. We would still have to share toilets and showers with those who were camping, but it seemed worth it, especially as the forecast was for a really cold night! We chose a room and went to get our stuff from the truck.

    I was on food prep tonight, so soon found myself chopping carrots alongside Mona. We were the only members of our group to show up, so I sent out a search party (Mark and Liz!) to encourage the newbies to come and do their share! Because we were late getting here, we didn’t eat until 8pm. We spent the time while we were waiting using the internet. It’s the first decent wifi we’ve had in a long time. Nobody minds paying US$3 to use it for a couple of days!

    We also listened to a talk by David from Black Rhino Tours about the optional excursion for tomorrow. It’s a full-day trip, with rhino tracking in the morning followed by lunch and then a visit to see some San rock painting in the afternoon. The cost is US$100 each. We have decided not to do it as we did rhino tracking in Eswatini, and we saw ancient rock paintings in Namibia. I’m sure it will be a great trip, but we couldn’t really justify the cost for something we’ve done before. We have decided to visit the railway museum in Bulawayo instead. David’s wife, Vivien, will take us there in the morning and bring us back later.

    For dinner, Henry had prepared vegetable soup followed by pasta bolognaise with vegetables. We didn’t stay up for long after eating as it turned very cold.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Bulawayo Railway Museum

    July 19, 2023 in Zimbabwe ☀️ 13 °C

    We slept pretty well. Everyone else complained about the cold, but we were warm enough in our room. Breakfast was at 8am this morning, ahead of the trip leaving at 8.30am. Those of us not going (Mark and I, Kim, Iona, and Greg) got landed with the washing up, but it was no big deal.

    After the others had left, Vivien arrived to take Mark, Greg, and me to the railway museum. On the way, she explained that her and David are in the process of taking over the company from a couple who are retiring to the UK. At the museum, she introduced us to Mr Murray, who would show us around. She then left, promising to come and pick us up a couple of hours later.

    Mr Murray is a white Zimbabwean who started working for Rhodesian Railways in 1972 and who now runs the museum assisted by Blessed, a young local girl who he is training to take over from him. The museum is clearly a passion project for him. It is owned by the Zimbabwe national railway company. They pay his and Blessed’s wages, but that’s it! They have just told him to do what he can! He has no funding. All of the entrance fees (US$2 per person) go to the company. None of the money goes to the museum. There are no sponsors. I asked Mr Murray if he has been in touch with any international railway preservation societies, particularly in the UK. He has, but no-one wants to send money to Zimbabwe! This is all very sad.

    Mr Murray has amassed a huge collection of Rhodesian/Zimbabwean railway memorabilia, including several steam and diesel engines, and a number of coaches. He even has the coach built for Cecil John Rhodes by the de Beer diamond mining company, which he founded. The coach was used to carry Rhodes’s coffin after he died. All of the exhibits are left as they are. There is no money to preserve them properly. Mr Murray is passionate about his museum, but it’s hard to see how the items housed there will survive for future generations to see.

    After a fascinating couple of hours, we thanked Mr Murray profusely for his time and gave him a small donation towards his work. Vivien then took us back to our campsite. On the way, she told us that her company, Black Rhino Tours, offers city tours of Bulawayo, as well as the rhino excursion the rest of our group were doing. These include the railway museum, the national history museum, the cultural centre, and a tour of the city. Had we known about this, we would definitely have booked it! We will feed back to Laban and ask him why it isn’t offered as an alternative on our trip!!

    Back at camp, we sat in the sunshine writing my notes, posting, listening to music, and chatting to Kim and Iona. It was all very pleasant. Henry cooked us chicken, rice, and salad for lunch. We then went for a wander around the site. It’s a bit rundown, but that’s understandable given the recent history here in Zimbabwe. We took advantage of having the facilities to ourselves and had showers this afternoon!

    The others got back at around 6.45pm. They had had a good day, although some said they were disappointed that they only saw four white rhino and no black. I think we made the right decision for us.

    We had dinner at around 7.30pm – pumpkin soup followed by chicken with pasta and salad. Afterwards, some people came over from another Intrepid truck that’s also on site. They are heading south doing our trip in reverse. They were mainly young Australians who wanted to party! Within 20 minutes of their arrival, all of our group had decided to go to bed, except the two young Canadians who have joined us recently. They were overheard complaining that our truck has too many rules and that it’s full of old people!! Rude!!    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Clevers Lake View Campsite

    July 20, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⛅ 19 °C

    The toxic atmosphere that had started in camp yesterday continued through the day today. It’s such a shame! There’s a definite ‘them and us’ divide. The newbies from the other truck resent the system our truck works to. The newbies who are fresh to this Intrepid trip (Joey, Gilly, and Michele) are just getting on with it! There were lots of upsets today between various people. I let it get to me at one point, but I had to take a deep breath and make a decision not to let the situation spoil my enjoyment of this trip!

    We had quite a long drive today to get to our next campsite just outside the town of Masvingo. It wasn’t a great start when someone wanted a bushy bushy stop less than an hour after we’d started! However, we pushed on along roads that were not in the best condition. We had to stop briefly in Masvingo as one of our number needed antibiotics.

    We arrived at our camp, Clevers Lakeview Campsite, at around 1pm. It was in a beautiful spot with, as the name suggests, a lovely view of a lake. The campground itself was rather uneven and scattered with boulders, so we had to pick our place carefully. It was our first time back in our tent in a week. We almost needed a reminder lesson on how to put it up 😂.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Great Zimbabwe Ruins

    July 20, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⛅ 19 °C

    After a lunch of salads, pasta, cheese, and ham, we got back on the truck to visit the Great Zimbabwe Ruins, a World Heritage Site. It is a medieval city in the southeastern hills of Zimbabwe near Lake Mutirikwe. It is thought to have been the capital of a great kingdom during the Late Iron Age, about which little is known. Construction on the city began in the 9th century and continued until it was abandoned in the 15th century. The edifices you can see today were erected by ancestors of the Shona and other groups located in Zimbabwe and nearby countries. The stone city spans an area of 7.22 square kilometres and could have housed up to 18,000 people at its peak, giving it a population density of approximately 2,500 inhabitants per square kilometre.

    Great Zimbabwe is believed to have served as a royal palace for the local monarch. As such, it would have been used as the seat of political power. Among the city's most prominent features were its walls, some of which are 11 metres high. They were constructed without mortar and are very impressive to see.

    When we got there, we split into two groups (largely along old group/new group lines!) and had a guided tour of the site. Our guide, Stephen, was very knowledgeable, and we spent a very interesting couple of hours with him visiting the Great Enclosure, the Valley Enclosure, and the museum.

    When it came to the Hill Complex, we went halfway up before turning round and heading back to the truck. Had we been on our own, we would have gone to the top at our own pace and admired the views from there, but, in the group, we didn’t want to hold the rest of them up. John, Trisha, and Greg had already gone back to the truck.

    When everyone came down, we headed back to site where Henry had prepared pea and carrot soup (a new one of us, but very tasty!) followed by steak, fried potatoes, salad, and vegetables for dinner.

    After our meal, Laban spoke to us all about his background and life story. It was really interesting to hear. He also tried to re-establish some order on the truck by asking the newbies from the other truck to put their packs in their lockers from tomorrow rather than in the compartments under the truck. I think his request fell on deaf ears!    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa
    3

    Driving to Harare

    July 21, 2023 in Zimbabwe ☀️ 17 °C

    It rained all night – the first rain we’ve had since first getting to Namibia. I woke up at 1.30am and just couldn’t get back to sleep. I got up to have a shower just after 4.30am!

    We had to be ready for breakfast with our tents down and correctly stowed by 6am. Henry had cooked porridge, as well as fried eggs, toast, and baked beans. As I suspected, the newbies hadn’t listened to Laban last night, and put their large packs under the truck where the chairs should go. Laban asked anyone who had done this to move them and stow them in their lockers. Nobody responded, so he took matters into his own hands and moved them into the truck! This caused uproar! The newbies complained that their packs wouldn’t fit, that they were fed up of being treated like children, that this wasn’t a holiday, it was a bootcamp, etc, etc. They got no sympathy from us!!

    Despite the issues, we managed to get packed up and were on the road by 6.45am, heading for Harare. The roads weren’t too bad, but we did have several diversions around road building or improvement projects happening ahead of Zimbabwean elections next month! We stopped twice in service stations to use the toilets. The second time, I bought a couple of very large packets of plain biscuits from a lady in the car park for the princely sum of US$1!!

    The photos 📸 attached to this footprint 👣 were taken from the truck on the way to Harare.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Lunch at the Beer Engine, Harare

    July 21, 2023 in Zimbabwe

    We arrived in Harare at 12.40pm. It was strange being in a city of 2.6 million people! We were given two hours to get some lunch and have a walk around. Laban recommended a place to go, but we didn’t like the look of it, so we went round the corner with Mona to the Beer Engine, a craft brewery and pub. The barman gave us samples of each of the beers they brew on the premises. We all agreed that their IPA, brewed using imported hops from the USA, was the best and ordered a glass each. We also ordered a platter to share. This comprised of samosas, chicken legs, ribs, sausages, chips, and salad.

    While we were waiting for the food to arrive, we met the owner of the place, a British guy who is married to a Zimbabwean and who has lived in the city since 1984. He explained to us that the government are planning to increase the excise duty on his product by 40%, meaning that it will cost him more to produce than he can charge for it, potentially putting him out of business! We complimented him on the quality of his IPA. He realised that our drinks had been poured from a new barrel that hadn’t had time to settle so, even though we’d nearly finished them, he gave us refills on the house. These came from an older barrel and were even better than the first ones. When the food came, it was delicious. We were joined by Ian, who agreed that the IPA was very good. By the time we’d paid our bill, we just had time to nip to the supermarket to stock up for tomorrow’s long driving day.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Overnight camp, Harare

    July 21, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⛅ 20 °C

    Back at the truck, Laban explained that, even though it was only 3pm, Harare’s Friday rush hour would start soon and, if we didn’t leave now, we could be stuck in traffic for about three hours! So, we headed for the campsite, a thirty-minute drive away. When we got there, Laban told us that we’re on for a 5.30am breakfast and a 6.30am departure tomorrow. This, coupled with the fact that there is only one toilet and shower for the women to use, and one for the men, made us decide to upgrade to an ensuite room for the cost of US$50. So, we took off what we needed from the truck, and went to settle in. Soon, as a member of the cook group today, I found myself chopping a mountain of kale with Michele!

    When the veg were all chopped, we had an hour or so to relax before dinner. We caught up on the internet and chatted to a few people. For dinner, Henry had prepared soup followed by chicken stir fry with rice and vegetables. We had the luxury of eating at tables indoors! We went to bed early in readiness for our early start.

    The photos 📸 attached to this footprint 👣 were taken during the drive to our camp.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Saucey Sue's

    July 22, 2023 in Zimbabwe ☀️ 22 °C

    We got up at 5am after a decent night’s sleep. We were happy not to have to take down a tent! Despite the early hour, Henry had made fresh doughnuts for breakfast. He had also laid out a table full of salads, cheese, ham, etc. for us to make ourselves a packed lunch. He had been up since 3am!!

    We were on the road a little earlier than planned. We were heading for the Zambian border, a six-hour drive away. We had a couple of bushy bushy stops on the way, and then stopped at a place called Saucey Sue’s, for toilets and for the chance to spend the last of the grubby US dollars we had been given in Zimbabwe! They sold a whole variety of different biltong, which appealed to some members of our group.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Entering Zambia

    July 22, 2023 in Zimbabwe ☀️ 23 °C

    The process of crossing the border into Zambia was quick and painless for all of our group except Michele from Switzerland. He was the only one of us who had to buy a visa to enter and he was not best pleased about it! It also took a long time for the truck to get clearance. We waited in the sun and chatted to some locals. I disappointed one of them big time by telling him the paper £20 notes he was trying to sell me were no longer legal tender in the UK! 😂

    Once we were in Zambia (country #59!), we had a three-hour drive to our campsite near Lusaka. We were immediately struck by the differences between this country and the ones we had visited recently. For a start, our Solis works here, so we have internet! Mark was able to catch up with the qualifiers for the Hungarian Grand Prix (Lewis is on pole for the first time this season!) and the fourth test in the Ashes series (England are dominating, but we could be scuppered by bad weather!

    We were also surprised by how green everywhere is. Zambia has ample water supplies, so crops are generously irrigated. There were markets and individual stalls full of fresh produce all along the road sides. We noticed more people out and about everywhere, all of whom were wearing colourful clothing. The villages we passed seemed larger, more affluent, and full of life than those we had seen in Zimbabwe. The people were smiling and waving to us as we drove by.

    Just before we reached Lusaka, we stopped at a mall for Henry to do some grocery shopping. We took the opportunity to draw some local cash – kwacha – and to buy some beers for Mark and Coke Zero for me. The Shoprite supermarket was better stocked than any we have seen since South Africa, and cheaper, too.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    First night in Zambia

    July 22, 2023 in Zambia ☀️ 21 °C

    From the supermarket, it was only a 20-minute drive to our campsite. We chose to camp as it is only for one night and the upgrades available were limited and expensive. We also thought we needed to put our tent up as we had put it away wet yesterday morning. It turned out, though, that the crew had put it up at last night’s site and dried it out, unbeknown to us! They always go above and beyond for us!

    The site was busy and noisy and it was already dark when we got there, but we put our tent up and passed the time until dinner was ready. We didn’t eat until gone 8pm, by which time I was past feeling hungry. However, Henry had made a delicious vegetable soup followed by spaghetti bolognaise and salad, so I ate a small portion of each 😂.

    After dinner, Laban spoke to the group to remind us all about the rules of group travel and the need for patience and respect. We had had a difficult travel day on the truck with one person dominating every conversation and invading everyone’s space. There had been an altercation between him and another member of the group, with him calling her some inappropriate names! It had spoiled the day for everyone. Laban addressed the issue, but I fear he wasn’t as direct he needed to be to get through to the culprit. Time will tell!!    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    A brief stop in Lusaka

    July 23, 2023 in Zambia ☀️ 14 °C

    We really didn’t sleep well at all! I got to sleep OK, but was woken up at 11.30pm by our obnoxious group member coming back from the bar! I couldn’t get back to sleep! The site was noisy all night, culminating in another Intrepid truck packing up to leave at about 5am. We weren’t having breakfast until 7am, but I gave up trying to get more sleep and went for a shower instead. The shower and hair wash in cold water well and truly woke me up!! We packed everything up and went for breakfast, which was French toast this morning. We found Mona’s bottle of wine which had gone missing last night. Of course, it was empty! She didn’t want to make a fuss, but all of the original group suspect the same person. Incidents like this just aren’t conducive to a happy trip!

    We were on the road by 7.45am. We were in for another long driving day with 400 kilometres to cover to get to our next camp. Half of this distance would be on difficult roads. We didn’t really have time to explore Lusaka, but Laban allowed us ten minutes in the city centre to take some photos of the brutalist architecture.

    Lusaka is the capital and largest city of Zambia. It is one of the fastest-developing cities in southern Africa. Lusaka is in the southern part of the central plateau at an elevation of about 1,279 metres. As of 2019, the city's population was about 3.3 million. Lusaka is the centre of both commerce and government in Zambia and connects to the country's four main highways. English is the official language of the city administration, while Bemba, Tonga, Lenje, Soli, Lozi, and Nyanja are the commonly spoken street languages.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Driving through Zambia

    July 23, 2023 in Zambia

    We then drove on through the Zambian countryside. Many people in rural areas make a living from producing charcoal, so swathes of land are black and burnt. Even though there is obvious poverty in these areas, the people seem happy, friendly, and outgoing. Being a Sunday, there were whole groups sitting outside socialising.

    The landscape is stunning with mountains, rivers, and forests.

    We stopped for a roadside lunch of sandwiches and salads. We arrived at our campsite in Petauke at about 4.30pm, put our tents up, and spent the time before dinner chatting. Fortunately, the verbose member of our group had upgraded, so he wasn’t there to dominate the conversation! Dinner was beef stroganoff with mashed potato and vegetables. It was very tasty. After dinner, we sat around the campfire discussing modern Zambia with Laban. The former Northern Rhodesia gained independence at the same time as Rhodesia itself, but the nation has been much more successful than its southern neighbour in the years since.

    Before bed, we chatted to some tourists from Slovenia who have rented 4 x 4s with roof tents and who are travelling around southern Africa for three weeks. They were happy that we were familiar with their country and were praising their capital city, Ljubljana.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Lunch in Chipata

    July 24, 2023 in Zambia ☀️ 24 °C

    Thankfully, I slept much better last night, and woke up at 5.30am feeling suitably refreshed! We had breakfast and were packed up and back on the road by 8am.

    We were heading for South Luangwa National Park, but stopped after three hours in the town of Chipata for an early lunch and a look around. Mark bought some beer for the next couple of days and we topped up our snack bag yet again! I spotted an optician across the road from the supermarket, so I went over to see if I could get my glasses fixed. It turned out that it was closed for refurbishment. There was just a pile of rubble and some old advertising posters! However, someone knew where the optician was and ran to get him. He found some tools amongst the mess, reattached the arm of my glasses, and charged me a measly 30 kwacha (about US$1.50!!). What service!!

    We then went to get some lunch. We ended up sharing a pizza. Then we bought some delicious fresh strawberries from a lady in the car park and got some ice cream from a local shop. We ate them on the truck. What a treat!!    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    A visit to Mulberry Mongoose

    July 24, 2023 in Zambia ☀️ 30 °C

    We continued our drive, passing village after village. Many of the people in this area earn a living from growing cotton. It is exported to Zimbabwe to be processed as there is no production facility in Zambia. They also make bricks from the local red clay, a back-breaking enterprise.

    As we approached our campsite, Croc Valley, just outside the national park, we passed through the village of Mfuwe. We visited Mulberry Mongoose, a women’s co-operative supported by Intrepid. They make jewellery from wire used in snares by poachers to illegally catch animals. The profits go to help anti-poaching initiatives. It was interesting to hear the story of how the workshops began. Most of us bought something as it is such a good cause. I bought another bracelet to go with my growing collection of African pieces!    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Croc Valley Campsite

    July 24, 2023 in Zambia 🌙 25 °C

    From the workshop, it was just a short distance to our camp. We passed a number of other craft shops and interesting-looking stalls, some of which definitely warrant further investigation!

    On the way into Croc Valley, we encountered a couple of male elephants, a herd of bushbucks, monkeys, and baboons. It augers well for tomorrow’s game drives! We were camping right next to the Luangwe River. It was a beautiful spot! There was seating overlooking the water, a nice bar area, and a large swimming pool, although it was still a tad cold to tempt me in. Before we put up our tents and settled in, we were given a talk about how and where to set up in order to keep the vervet monkeys and baboons at bay. We were also advised what to do if we encountered a hippo or an elephant in the camp in the middle of the night. Apparently, it’s a common occurrence!

    Having put our tents up, we went to the bar and sat watching the hippos, crocs, and storks. The hippos were making a heck of a racket! We tried using the African wifi, but it really wasn’t working very well, so we gave up and just watched the wildlife instead. When dinner was ready, Laban came to get us. We had spaghetti bolognaise. None of us were late to bed as we have an early start tomorrow.    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Early morning drive in South Luangwa NP

    July 25, 2023 in Zambia 🌙 15 °C

    We were up at 5.0am for a light breakfast of coffee and cereal before our early morning game drive. We were very happy not to have to take our tents down! At 5.45am, our two 4 x 4s arrived and we split into two groups of 10. There is still a clear divide between the old and new groups! We ended up with 9 of the original group and one new member. Our driver was Musa. We set off together, but soon went our separate ways. We spent four hours in the park. During that time we saw:

    • Lots of bushbucks
    • Vervet monkeys
    • Waterbucks
    • The nest of a pair of hammerkopfs, as well as the birds themselves
    • Hundreds of guinea fowl
    • A family of warthogs searching for food in the mud
    • Loads of impalas
    • Groups of baboons
    • Elephants, including very young ones
    • Hippos
    • An African Fish Eagle, the national bird of Zambia
    • Crocodiles
    • Zebras, including one with a nasty gash on its leg
    • Plovers
    • Marabou storks
    • Buffalo
    • Fava bean storks
    • Sacred ibis
    • Thorneycroft giraffes    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    The end of our morning drive

    July 25, 2023 in Zambia

    Halfway through the drive, we met up with the other half of our group for coffee and delicious homemade spicy savoury biscuits by the water. They had seen exactly the same as we had.

    After our break, it all got a bit fraught. We didn’t see much more wildlife. Musa kept apologising to Mona, who was in the front, because we hadn’t seen a leopard. We tried to reassure him that it wasn’t his fault, but other members of our group started to pick fault in his English and in his spotting skills. At the end of the safari, they didn’t tip him, even though we had been advised to do so. I thought they were overly critical. We had thoroughly enjoyed our experience and had seen plenty. It was very different to other safaris we have done because the park is so green and lush. There is water everywhere. This means that there isn’t the focus on waterholes that you get in other parks, so there are no places where you are guaranteed to see animals. It is much more a game of chance. Mona, Mark, and I were the only ones who gave Musa a tip. The others immediately complained to Laban about how rubbish he was!Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Craft shopping in Mfuwe

    July 25, 2023 in Zambia

    When we got back to camp after our game drive, Henry had prepared us a hot lunch. We then had free time before our afternoon game drive began at 4pm. Most of the group went to the pool or the bar or both. Mona and I asked Laban to arrange a taxi for us so that we could go and explore the craft shops and market we had seen on the way in yesterday.

    Our driver, Owen, arrived to pick us up at 12.30pm. His nickname is Mr Tall, for the obvious reason that he is the tallest man in the village! On the way out of Croc Valley, we saw elephants and, unusually, a hippo out of the water. It isn’t far to the village from the campsite, and we felt like frauds for taking a taxi, but we were warned that it was too dangerous to walk. In fact, Owen stopped to warn a guy that we saw walking along the road by himself that there were elephants in the vicinity.

    Once we reached the village, Owen took us to a place to change a few dollars to Zambian Kwacha. The lady in the first place he took us to offered us a shockingly low exchange rate, so we got back in the taxi, drove across the road, and did some kind of dodgy deal with a guy through the car window! 😂

    Owen then dropped us off and arranged to pick us up from the textile centre at the other end of the village at 2pm. We walked up the road through the market, chatting to people as we went. We saw lots of waxed cotton fabrics for sale, and there were ladies with sewing machines in the next road back waiting to make the material up into garments. There were colourful displays of fresh fruit and vegetables and bottles of unidentifiable liquids. Many of the ladies in the market spoke very little English. We loved spending time looking at everything. This felt like we were finally getting the authentic experience we had been wanting.

    After the market, we visited the craft shops, most of which were run by women’s co-operatives, and a couple of which had nice-looking cafés. There were some interesting projects being supported, including one to supply reusable sanitary towels to girls so that they didn’t have to miss any school. There were also some lovely handcrafted items on sale. Mona bought some trousers and a cotton zipped bag. I bought a wallet. We both bought jewellery. I resisted the temptation to buy a beautiful handwoven scarf!    Read more

  • Overlanding Through Africa

    Tribal Textiles, Mfuwe

    July 25, 2023 in Zambia ☀️ 31 °C

    We ended our very enjoyable shopping spree at the inspiring ‘Tribal Textiles’, where we met Honor from Chichester, who is just coming to the end of a three-month internship there. She was painting a mural on the outside wall of the shop. She was telling us about an art project she has helped to set up where the local children are making a giant baobab tree out of rubbish they have collected.

    Owen picked us up at the appointed time and took us back to the campsite where we regaled the rest of the group with tales of our outing. We spent the time until our next game drive with the others in the bar.    Read more