• Holly and Karl

Baguette Bike Travels

A family cycling trip from Barcelona to Paris to explore the Mediterranean coast, the Alpes and reconnect with old friends. Leggi altro
  • Grenoble Bike Life

    25 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We got insight into the life of an active outdoor family in Grenoble with Marie-Pierre and Didier. Both are serious bike commuters, pedalling to work rain or shine. They also bike tour, motivated by their eldest daughter who has been on long trips like ours, so they very much understood our previous epic bike day and had drinks and brioche ready for their fatigued guests. We enjoyed hearing about their sporting pursuits, adventures and new pastimes with retirement. Meanwhile, Claire was in love with Kiwi the cat and thankfully Kiwi graciously put up with the constant attention. Karl had broken his front rack on the ride down to Grenoble (RIP yet another front rack - one per bike tour guaranteed!), and Didier guided us to the touring focused bike shop in town so Karl could get outfitted with a new one. As such, we got a late start, leaving Grenoble at 1 pm to ride up the valley toward Villard d'Hery where we were meeting up with Jean-Paul and Claude. Luckily the valley ride was not too demanding and full of interesting agricultural sights, along with the stunning massifs bordering the valley.Leggi altro

  • Cret du Poulet

    26 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    It was so great to see Jean-Paul and Claude, who have known Holly since she was a small child. Holly's Mom met Claude when she did an exchange in Chambery during her university studies and they have stayed in touch since then, with many family connections and trips together along the way. We got settled into their beautiful home, ate a delicious meal, and planned to have a relaxed first day at their place after many days on the road. But... then it was finally sunny the next morning, after so many cloudy and rainy days, so we needed to seize the day and get up high for some views! After a quick conversion to hiking mode we hopped in the car to head to the Belledonnes. Our hike to the Grand Rocher on the Cret du Poulet took us through alpine pastures to a couple gites for a delicious picnic lunch, then up a rocky ridge to the cross at the top, and Claire was keen to be the first to reach the cross! She was a great little hiker for the day. On our way home we stopped in La Chapelle Blanche to see Claude's Mom (Mémé - grandma as she is called), who at 95 still works in the garden. Holly's Mom spent many weekends with Claude's family while at university, and both her and Mémé were emotional over a video call we shared. Our final stop was to see Claude's brother and sister who still run the family farm.Leggi altro

  • Les Bauges

    27 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We wanted to visit Anne-Gaëlle and her family in les Bauges, the mountains above Chambery, but were feeling a bit too worn out to do another big climb on the bikes so soon. Jean-Paul and Claude helped us with an alternative plan - getting a ride up into the Massif des Bauges for a hike all together. And to our surprise a few more family members, who we were planning to visit in the weeks to come, showed up to join the day too. It was super fun to see everyone together! We had beautiful weather for a hike through alpine pastures to an overlook of Lake Annecy, then gathered at Anne-Gaëlle's for a meal. Anne-Gaëlle and her husband David barbequed up a storm, her kids Matéo (21 years old) and Nora (19) helped to entertain Claire, and we enjoyed good food and good company over a long late lunch. What a great day spent in the mountains with friends!Leggi altro

  • Down Time

    28 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We hadn't quite rested yet since landing at Jean-Paul and Claude's in Villard d'Héry, so we took a chill morning to check out the garden, swim and eat a delicious BBQ lunch. After a good nap for Claire, we headed to Chambery to explore the historical city. The narrow passageways were pretty impressive in this city built all on piles, where the Count of Savoie lived. Back home, our evening appéro included tasting the Clairette de Die (a version of bubbly wine) that we had pedalled all the way from Die, and it was delicious!Leggi altro

  • An Education in French Cheese

    29 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    French cheese is renown and also quite complex to understand. Karl and I had many questions for Jean-Paul and Claude about cheese production, marketing, etc, and we were progressively getting closer to understanding the particularities of cheeses with protected, or trademarked, names. To further cement our learning we headed into the Beaufortin region to learn about Beaufort cheese. First we drove up to the Col de Joly where we got a view of Mont Blanc (albeit a bit cloud-covered) and ate a delicious picnic lunch, before heading to the Cooperative where they make Beaufort cheese. We visited the (stinky!) cellars where the cheese is aged as well as the interpretive centre to learn more about the whole process. We left with some fresh Beaufort cheese to taste at dinner, among other delicious ongoing culinary discoveries.Leggi altro

  • Back on the Bikes

    30 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After a few days of mountain adventures it was time to get back on the bikes. Claire made the most of the morning to swim and bike while we packed, Claude filled us up with yet another delicious meal, and we headed back out on the road again. We had a rolling valley ride past Chambery, then took the high road toward Aix-les-Bains. The slopes are steep below the bluffs, but that doesn't prevent farmers from growing grapes destined for wine. We met up with Michelle in Grésy-sur-Aix and biked the last 5 km to La Biolle with her. It was fun to have a guide for a portion of the ride, although we weren't quite as spry on the uphills without any extra assistance!Leggi altro

  • Lac du Bourget

    31 maggio 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Since we'd travelled the high road to get to La Biolle, we decided to explore the shores of Lac du Bourget with Michelle and Michel by bike. The Michels are long-time family friends, who also knew Holly's parents in the university and post-university days, and whose family kept in contact with Holly's over the years with trips in France and a memorable canoe trip in Algonquin Park when the Michels and their daughters visited Canada. It was so nice to get to spend some relaxing days with them and catch up. We were also able to connect with more of the extended family in the afternoon for a goûter (afternoon snack) at the beach with Pauline and two of her kids, Thaïs (10 years old) and Siméon (8), while the third Leane was at music lessons, along with mamie Françoise. We were so busy chatting and swimming, however that we didn't manage to take any photos when we were all gathered together :( After the boys headed to soccer practice, Pauline was our bike guide through Aix-les-Bains, with a quick stop at her house for a drink while we waited for thundershowers to pass.Leggi altro

  • Chillin' in Chanaz

    1 giugno 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    With a warm sunny day forecast, we planned our most chill day yet - a visit to the village of Chanaz with the Michels, complete with a boat trip down the canal to the Lac du Bourget. On the way we stopped at the Belvedere de la Chambotte for beautiful views of the lake. A historic mill still operates in the village of Chanaz, turning hazelnuts into hazelnut oil and other delicious nut-based products, and we were transfixed by the turning wheel. After wandering the town and eating a delicious picnic lunch, we rented a little boat with an electric motor (with a max speed of 6 km/hr) to cruise down the canal to the lake and take a dip. We completed the day with delicious artisanal ice cream. What a vacation from our vacation!Leggi altro

  • Street Art and a Concert

    2 giugno 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We had a big arts and culture day for our final day with the Michels. We met up with Michelle's friend Jeannette in Grenoble to tour the street art as part of a festival that occurs each year in the city to transform the cityscape with the addition of beautiful wall murals. We had the bright idea to use a stroller for the day and it was a treat for everyone as Claire could rest when she wanted and even take a nap while we were wandering the streets of the various neighborhoods of the city. Our self-guided tour included park breaks, a delicious pizza lunch and the main highlight of the murals themselves. After the long day in the sun, Michel was back 'on', as he sang at a concert that evening along with other vocal students in a local cohort. Two of the performers were little girls, inspiring Claire to get up on stage as well and sing "Au claire de la lune" for the 30-person audience - our brave and outgoing adventurer surprising us even further with her confidence! After the concert everyone gathered for drinks, snacks and more singing, and Michel got Holly to explain our families' connection and our bike trip to the group, inspiring more interesting conversations as we connected with different folks at the end of the lovely gathering.Leggi altro

  • Double Visit

    3 giugno 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We had a relatively short ride from La Biolle to Françoise and George's home in Marcellaz-Albanais, but the climb at the end was a good reminder of the climbing to come as we head further into the high cols of the Alpes. Françoise and George and their daughters (Anne-Gaëlle and Pauline, who we'd already managed to see, and Elodie who we are planning to see prior to the end of the trip) were ready adventure companions when Holly's family spent a summer and a few winter vacations in the Savoie region, and it was super fun to be back at their place and connecting with them, further to seeing them at a couple family gatherings over the prior week. They also very kindly extended their hospitality to Karl's university friend Ashley and her husband Théo and baby Elliott, who live in Lyon, and came to visit for the weekend. We had a lovely extended lunch while little ones napped, and toured George's excellent garden. While Françoise and George headed out dancing in the evening, we went for a small hike to take in some mountain views, before getting the littles fed and to bed.Leggi altro

  • Recreating Lakeside

    4 giugno 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Lac Annecy was the backdrop to our adventures for the day, starting with a hike to the Col des Contrebandiers. Despite some steep rocky sections, Claire did a great job of hiking quite a bit of the trail, while baby Elliott just napped ;) We had a deluxe picnic at the top, complete with an entrée, main, cheese selection, cake and coffee. Françoise and George really are next level with their picnics ("We are only missing the wine" George lamented). After our hike down we enjoyed cold drinks at the car, before heading to the beach for a swim. Unfortunately we arrived slightly too late given the unsettled weather, however rain didn't stop Karl, Claire, Holly and Françoise from taking a dip. We said our goodbyes to Ashley, Théo and Elliott, who headed back to Lyon, then had a lovely evening and dinner with Françoise and George - chatting, among other things, about the contrasts between life in Haute-Savoie vs the Yukon.Leggi altro

  • A Taste of Annecy

    5 giugno 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It was a short enjoyable ride down quiet roads and bike paths to the beautiful city of Annecy. We were lucky to get to connect for the day with Gisèle, another university friend of Holly's Mom, and who had followed a similar career path as a French teacher. We had a delicious lunch at Gisèle's appartment overlooking the lake and caught up on many years, since Holly last saw Gisèle and her daughters Florence and Dominique as a teenager. After a good nap for Claire, we were back at the Annecy beach in the afternoon, this time for a swim under sunny skies. We enjoyed the lakeside ambiance again for dinner with Gisèle at the Brasserie de l'Imperial and appreciated her gastronomic guidance as we learned about different dishes that we hadn't been exposed to yet. And the desert buffet was a cyclist's dream!Leggi altro

  • Easy Hard Day

    6 giugno 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We sometimes make plans... researching distances, elevation gain, and places to camp along a certain route. But we are also always open to input about beautiful rides. Which is why after meeting Gisèle's neighbor in Annecy we were persuaded to head through Ugine and Megève to get to Chamonix, instead of riding through a completely different valley. And it turned out to be an excellent choice! We started with a beautiful ride along Lac Annecy, complete with a swim for Claire just before we left the lakeshore. Then we cruised along a rail trail with a tail wind to Ugine, before climbing up through the Gorges de l'Arly to Megève. When we realized that we were quite close to Cordon, and the home of a couple we'd met earlier in the trip, and still had energy despite the long ride, we pushed to their place - albeit with tired legs for the last kilometres of uphill to their house! Candice introduced Claire to the cats, and she was a happy camper as we got settled in. We then enjoyed a beautiful dinner together, along with Candice's daughter Line, with stunning views of Mont Blanc in the background to end the unplanned but amazing day.Leggi altro

  • Hiking in the Alpages

    7 giugno 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We had hoped to do some téléphérique-assisted hiking in Chamonix, but were just a few days early for the start of the season. So to make the most of Cordon, with great views of Mont Blanc, we did a bike-assisted hike to the alpages (mountain pastures) above the town. As we pedalled to the start of the hike, we passed a farm where we visited the cows, then were able to buy cheese directly from the farmer. Further on, we found the road quite rideable, so just kept biking until the track headed steeply up to the alpine. We walked through lush forests up the road until we reached a herd of goats, but didn't stop long to look, as the guard dogs (patous) very noisily and insistently barked until we had moved past their protégés. Higher up we got to the cow pastures, with mobile milking systems and mountain huts so that the cows can be milked all summer in the alpine. We enjoyed lunch in a cirque of waterfalls taking in the stunning views of the Mont Blanc massif. After the steep hike down, our legs appreciated some coasting on the bikes, that is, until we had to climb back up to Candice's place above Cordon at the end of the day!Leggi altro

  • Aiguille du Midi

    8 giugno 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Motivated to maximize our time in Chamonix for the day, we got an early start on the bikes after some interesting chats about Paris 2024 with Sebastien and Candice over breakfast. We sailed down from Cordon to the valley bottom, then started our climb back up, with some extra elevation gain on small side roads since cyclists aren't allowed on the freeway running through the valley. The views of Mont Blanc just kept getting better with each new vantage point. We rolled into the campground in town (with a majority of tents, given a healthy population of alpinists), did a quick tent setup, and by noon were headed to the Aiguille du Midi téléphérique. Unfortunately, while we waited to go up, the clear skies partially clouded over, so the views weren't quite as expansive, but the whole experience was nothing short of impressive. From 1038 m the téléphérique first takes you to the Plan du Midi at 2317 m, then the next one takes you to the Aiguille du Midi at 3842 m, all in under 20 minutes. And the views, when the clouds opened up, were stunning over the summit, the glacial valleys and the rest of the Mont Blanc massif. The infrastructure at the top is extensive, with platforms, tunnels, and elevators all providing different views, and restaurants serving all manner of fare. We watched climbers and skiers recreating in this high playground, aided by the access to fast travel up or down the mountain. When we'd had enough of being high, we zipped back down and wandered the streets of Chamonix on our way to visit Candice at her office for a quick hello, before heading to camp for an early night.Leggi altro

  • New Heights

    9 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    It was blues skies again in the morning, meaning fresh views of Mont Blanc. We packed up and visited Candice one last time for morning tea - what fun to have gotten to connect with her and Sebastien as we explored the area, after a chance meeting in the Gorges du Verdun many weeks earlier. We climbed up the valley beyond Chamonix, passing the village of Argentière before pushing up to the Col des Montets at a new high point of 1461 m. We were enchanted by the beautiful rocky alpine valley, and stopped for a deluxe picnic lunch - we've upped our picnic game since experiencing superbe French picnics with our friends! Then we rode down through Vallorcine and across the border to Switzerland. Our next climb took us even higher, to the Col de la Forclaz at 1527 m. Our first experience of Swiss alpine roads is that they are slightly steeper! It was a thrilling ride back down to Martigny, with the temperature rising as we dropped through the steep vine-filled hills. And then, we were back along the Rhône River, after so many kilometres travelled! Karl celebrated with rivella, a drink recommended to us by our Swiss-Canadian friends.Leggi altro

  • Swiss Birthday

    10 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    It was a rainy night and morning, and we felt lucky to be camped in a campground with comfortable indoor spaces to cook and eat - a good first experience of Swiss campgrounds! When the rain lightened up we pushed off for a ride up the Rhône. In a couple hours we arrived in Sierre to meet up with Anaïs, Laurent, Amaël (9 years old), and Lohan (5), and since we were arriving for Amaël's birthday party, the Michels were there as well to celebrate their grandson's birthday. We started eating at 1 pm, a delicious 'light' lunch, then after a short break, the birthday party started and we continued eating all evening. We got to chat with friends and family of Anaïs and Laurent and taste Swiss fare, with different dishes and drinks continuing to appear throughout the evening for the party guests to enjoy. Between the chickens and the children running through the garden, Claire was in her element as well!Leggi altro

  • Bisse Walk & Raclette à la Suisse

    11 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    It was a relaxed Sunday after the party. We explored Sierre on foot with the whole gang in the morning, walking through the hilly town filled with vines to Lac de Géronde. After lunch and some napping, we headed up to higher country to walk along a bisse, the irrigation canals that bring water slowly down the steep hillsides from the glaciers to the valley floor. It was the perfect place to hike in the heat of the day because of the abundance of shade along the bisse. For dinner we got to experience raclette the Swiss way, a whole wheel of cheese cooked by the fire and served one serving at a time once the cheese is perfectly melted - delicious!Leggi altro

  • Sierre Scenes

    12 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We enjoyed another relaxed morning with Anaïs, Laurent, Michel and Michelle while the boys went to school. We checked out the Chateau Mercier (including the 'poultry yard') and the older parts of Sierre and enjoyed another lunch all together before saying goodbye to the Michels. After a relaxed afternoon, we packed up a picnic dinner to take down to the lake. Meanwhile, Lohan had a party and sleepover at school with his kindergarten class for the end of the year, so we stopped in on our way home and got to enjoy some performances, including an introduction to the song "Chope la banane!" ("Grab the banana!", as in, "Smile!"), an ear worm that would become the anthem of our Swiss mountain riding in days to come.Leggi altro

  • Funiculaire Adventure

    13 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    For our last day in Sierre, we took another new mode of transport - a funiculaire - up to the town and ski resort of Crans-Montana. We didn't realize just how ritzy of a ski resort town it was until we got there. We found some toys for everyone to play with, walked in the forest and in the streets, watched waterskiers while we had our picnic lunch, then headed back down the mountain. Then it was sadly time to pack up for our departure the next day. We very much enjoyed our time connecting with Anaïs and Laurent and the family, bringing such good energy to our time in Sierre. In their chill presence, we had time for very meaningful exchanges about life and our respective journeys, as they are very soon leaving on a family adventure to work on organic farms around France for a year. And after so many years since seeing Anaïs, it was fun to reminisce about the childhood adventures Holly and Anaïs' families shared. Anaïs generously offered both of us a reflexology session during our stay, and it was a great opportunity for unwinding from the pressure of the trip on our bodies and minds. We certainly left Sierre ready for the next challenge...Leggi altro

  • The Young Rhône

    14 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We got an early start and said our goodbyes to Anaïs, Laurent and the boys, then we started pedalling up the Rhône. We followed the river mostly as we rode to Brig. The trail felt flatter than we'd expected, likely helped by a moderate tailwind. Leaving Brig we took some side roads to avoid the traffic of the main highway, but the elective additional elevation gain felt oppressive given the heat of the day. As we climbed higher the valley narrowed, although there were still pastures even on the very steep slopes. Close to Fiesch we found a suspension bridge across the Rhône where the river had carved a deeper canyon. Then we were up in the flatter alpine pasture lands where small villages dotted the landscape with distinctive sun-darkened wood houses. After 75 km we called it a day and found a small forested campsite along the 'young Rhône', also called the Rotte, for a refreshing sleep in the alpine air.Leggi altro

  • Grimsel Pass

    15 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We weren't the only cyclists riding high mountain passes in the upper Rhône - we'd found out in days prior that the Tour de Suisse would be passing us, as the ride headed up over Gletsch Pass and onto Furka Pass. We headed out from our campsite along alpine meadows, arriving in Oberwald with enough time to climb up to Gletsch Pass before the racers passed. The ride was beautifully forested with awesome alpine views, and felt more wild compared to the hairpin turns of the Grimsel Pass climb taunting us from above. We settled into a high point overlooking the end of the climb, and watched the riders sprint past us, two or three times faster than our climbing speed. Our subsequent climb up to Grimsel Pass provided great views of the upper Rhône and the climb to Furka Pass. It is still a surprise for us to find hotels and restaurants in the alpine, but sure enough there were both when we reached the top of Grimsel Pass at 2164 m - the high point of our bike tour. We enjoyed lunch at the summit, then rolled over the other side past an array of hydro dams, down down down the long valley at top speeds. We ended our day in Meiringen, back down at 595 m of elevation, now in the watershed of the Rhine River.Leggi altro

  • Brienzersee & Thunersee

    16 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After a good night's sleep out of the rain with generous Warmshowers host Rolf in Meiringen we got an early start down the valley of the Aare River. A quiet farm lane led us past beautiful waterfalls and horse pastures towards Brienzersee. We opted to take the north side of the lake to give our tired legs a break from climbing, and rolled easily along the stunning blue lake with sunbeams poking through the clouds. After being joined on the road over Grimsel Pass by hundreds of Vespa scooters the previous day, we finally discovered that World Vespa Days was being hosted in Interlaken, so people had come from far and wide to ride their funny (loud, stinky...) scooters in the beautiful mountains of Switzerland. We enjoyed the touristy streets of Interlaken and then took a break to swim in the chilly waters of Thunersee, before continuing to Spiez to be hosted by another Warmshowers family - Christian, Maria, and their sons Eirik (8 years old) and Sigurd (6). Despite the two young boys only speaking Swiss German, Claire managed to have some fun playing with them after a delicious shared pizza dinner, and they even slept out in the yard with us for the night. We always enjoy making these connections and getting a deeper look into a place than we would if we just rode through without any local context.Leggi altro

  • Biking in Bern

    17 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We had fun getting guided by Maria and the boys for the first 5 km of our ride out of Spiez. We then enjoyed rolling through forested paths to the town of Thun. More well-developed bike trails took us to Bern as we followed the vibrant turquoise waters of the Aare River. Despite the cobblestone streets, we had fun exploring the old city centre by bike and were impressed by all the cyclists and the variety in cargo and kid-carrying bikes. We had organized another Warmshowers stay in Bern, and were thrilled to meet Bubu, Haci and their 3-year old daughter Ronya. Bubu lived in New York for 7 years while in university so she spoke excellent English, while Haci had emigrated from Turkey to Switzerland and only spoke high German - perfect for Karl to get a break and get to talk in English, and Holly to find the German she learned 25 years ago while on exchange in Berlin, tucked away in the back of her head behind the other languages learned since then... With the hot weather, Bubu and Haci took us to an outdoor pool by their appartment, apparently the largest outdoor public swimming pool in Western Europe. And to travel in comfort, Holly got to try their e-bike to pull Claire in a Chariot! Bubu cooked us up a feast of delicious Turkish dishes, the girls tried to escape bedtime (such similar characters!) and we chatted late into the night about bike touring, immigration, languages, and politics - all in all it was a great day!Leggi altro

  • Swiss Connection

    18 giugno 2023, Svizzera ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We enjoyed a delicious breakfast with Bubu, Haci and Ronya - with a bit of Swiss and a bit of Turkish fare. It was a good start to the day, as it was Holly's birthday! We said our goodbyes after such a lovely visit, then headed along more excellent bike trails out of the city. We had a short ride following the Aare River, and a refreshing swim in Wohlensee before rolling into the village of Erlach. Here we were connecting with our Whitehorse Swiss friend Crispin's brother Damian, along with his wife Myriam and their two children Laurin (almost 5 years old) and Anik (2). Despite a slow start given the language difference, Claire, Laurin and Anik had the best of times together and we walked around Erlach and visited viewpoints, playgrounds and fountains (including for a swim). We got the kids to bed relatively early, then enjoyed pastries and wine to celebrate Holly's birthday. We enjoyed fun chats about the differences between life in Switzerland and Canada, as both Damian and Myriam had spent quite a bit of time in Canada over the years, and about our adventures with Crispin.Leggi altro