• Ezyian
  • Flo M
Agu 2022 – Jul 2023

4 kids world tour year

With mum and dad, we visit 36 countries on a world tour in 365 days. We visit schools, homes, and hospitals to experience the lives of other children Baca selengkapnya
  • Leaving Rwanda

    27 Agustus 2022, Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We had planned to leave Musanse around midday, but late yesterday the driver who was coming from Kigali said there was a problem that between 0800 and 1100 was umuganda. That is once a month , when everyone is obliged to serve the community, it is also a time to make friends. If you get caught skipping it, you get a $5 fine, which is not insignificant for most Rwandans. The driver explained that is how they clean up the cities and villages and do other useful work for the community. We told him not to risk trouble, so he left at 1100 and arrived just before 1400.

    See here the bbc on umuganda
    https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20200105-the…

    The children home schooled in the morning, and then the little ones played with the local kids. When it was time to leave, the kids and especially Nora, were sad to leave. The hotel hosts, Alice and Peterson were outstanding at their jobs, and truly nice people. Alice gave Oscar some sugar cane as a leaving present, just as she had given him some banana beer the day before, after he demanded it. However, he was not so keen on it. Note that it's 14% alcohol 🍸 🤣.

    On the road back it was a lot quieter than on the way there, but there were a few new sights, for example a wedding, and many people going to church. Apparently, Adventists here go to church on a Saturday. The bride and groom are an illustration of just how poor people are: they are walking a long way because they can't afford a car and the driver thinks they borrowed the wedding dress and suit from the church.

    Quiet night watching the last hour of Out of Africa, ready for tomorrow's early start to Namibia. Not forgetting dinner in the nicest airport hotel ever. Beautiful tropical garden, views of Kigali and the hills.
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  • Stopover Day

    28 Agustus 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today, we don't do much because we fly Kigali, Lusaka, Johannesburg, and finally Windhoek.

    The 1st plane stops in Lusaka, Zambia, we don't get off the plane. We get to Johannesburg more or less on time, then navigate our way through transfer, which includes all passports being checked and stamped.

    12 hours after we started, we were in Windhoek. The only thing I had not reckoned with is that the airport is 50km from the city, so we have to take two long taxi rides.
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  • Kalahari Dessert

    29 Agustus 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We left Windhoek around 1400, after 2 hours spent picking up the camper, which was mostly useful advice and instructions, and two hours stocking up at a local supermarket. I have no idea why the latter took so long, as I stayed in the Camper, and in that time, read the entire history of Namibia (Lonely Planet version). That would form the basis of a history and politics lesson later in the day.

    The GPS instructions to get to our campsite in the Kalahari could hardly be simpler. Drive South for 188km, turn left for 40km, drive South for 8km. There are so few roads that a taxi driver could know them all. There are basically two standards of road "B", and "C" or "D". They could also just call them "good" and "bad" roads, with the good ones having tarmac and the other ones not. Those instructions on driving the camper were worth the time.

    We arrived at the campsite around 1700. We are greater by the owner, Louise Janssen. She explains how here workers heat the water with a wood fire, twice a day, and a few other practical things.

    Her husband shows up, and he offers a quick tour of the living area, if you don't mind standing on the back of a jeep. We don't, so we are off. There are Giraffes springbok and other wildlife. Louise explained that outside the 2km × 2km area she has 1200 sheep, and that she is pretty sure, when asked by the children about lions, that there are none around, because there are no dead sheep. Since the kids are always interested/worried about deadly animals and reptiles, she did say we might see snakes, but the only real danger is standing on scorpions 🦂. So wear proper shoes, not flip-flops! Advice noted 😉.

    The cousins Audwyn and Cedric, who joined us in Windhoek, set up a barbecue using their scouting skills ( kindle with grass, then small sticks, and so on) We all settle down to enjoy the food because we are really hungry, though not in any way starving. That metaphor is out in place here. Delicious 😋.

    Before we settle down for the night 🌙, we spend a good half our staring in amazement at the charity and number of the stars 🌟. My various attempts to photograph this fail, but Florence wins penis points for having chosen the best phone camera (Samsung S20 Ultra), and her pictures are amazing 👏.

    Children go easily to bed, which allows time and peace to enjoy the stars and a Namibian beer for another hour.
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  • Ai Ais & Fish River Canyon

    30 Agustus 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today, we travelled the loooong road from the Kalahari to Fish River canyon and Ai Ais hot springs.

    Google Maps claimed it would take 6 hours, but in fact, it took 9, which was a little critical because we arrived at 18:46. The reception closes at sunset, in this case, 18:45. Now in Africa, timing is rarely exact, but in this case, it was however. As we approached the gate, a car came the other way and gestured that we stop. Hi I'm Mathew, do you have a booking? Yes, we do. Ok, then just use any vacant parking and come see me in the morning. Swiss punctuality without the fixation on following the rules.

    In parts the road was terrible, and the camper shook like crazy stress testing everything, and indeed a couple of latches fell off , and the trim around the microwave cracked But all in all given the level of stress and the duration, the camper held up well.

    We visited Fush River canyon, and although it is supposedly the 2nd largest in the world, I was somewhat underwhelmed. Similarly, the hot springs at Ais-Ais, which it turns out, are 65C and, as far as we could tell, not visible at the surface. They do provide hot water for the largish pool.

    Since the trip was so long, and it was getting late, we ate at the site restaurant and tried out onyx steaks and hamburgers. Not bad, I have to say, and $70 for eight meals, including drinks, is not bad.
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  • Lüderitz

    1 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We wake up unexpectedly to thick fog. Yes, we are on the Atlantic coast, but we are in the tropics and in the Namib desert 🏜. We get up later than usual, and around midday, we head for Kolmanskopp, a ghost town near Lüderitz. The town thrived 100 years ago mining diamonds. Later, as cheaper sources were available, it fell into disuse. Now it's a bit eerie with pushchairs and toys that were left a long, long time ago. The atmosphere is, however, disturbed somewhat by a large American film crew using the site for a drama.

    In the afternoon, we head down the coast to Diaz Point, where there is a lighthouse, beach, and very lonely coffee shop. We have a picnic of cheese and ham sandwiches on the rock's next to the beach. Nora announces she needs a Kaka , so I, never one to turn down a coffee, volunteer to take her to the loo at the coffee shop. Nora does her thing, whilst I enjoy my first latte in 3 weeks, for the meagre sum of $1.8. The waitress says to me, "You see those tourists there please tell them to come here." I smile politely. (We see six other people all afternoon).

    Then, there are two little dramas. 1st, I don't quite trust my eyes, but that looks like a snake! Is it dead? I call the others, especially snake fan Lennox. Still, the question is, "dead or alive?", but after a short time, the snake answers the question. Stand back, children! Later, we identify it as a rather dangerous thorn headed viper.

    The 2nd is the other tourists, who also came to photograph the snake, tell me you should replace that tyre it's not safe and yes the 4cm long tear does not look good. Then, without asking the others, a local and German set about changing the tyre for us. We all feel a bit stupid but thankful we learned how to do it.

    "Stop after 1km and check the bolts are tight," so we did, and by chance, we stopped where there were lots of very pink flamingoes. Every time the children moved closer, the birds moved the same distance away, until after about 800m, the birds had had enough and flew off.

    In the evening, for food, we visited Lüderitz downtown. It was the days 2nd ghost town, except for three bars with pool tables. Eventually, we found a restaurant open, and several of us were so hungry we ordered twice.

    Flo and I had beer, and although the menu suggested ladies should take 250ml Flo risked it and also took a half litre.

    After food we ordered a taxi. The price is $1.1 each. The driver has a 4 seater Toyota, but he is happy to take all 8 if we don't! 😀
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  • 500km through the Namib desert

    2 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We start quite early for two reasons, 1st we have 500km to the next stop, of which 400km is dirt or sand route, and 2nd we need to change a tyre, the spare tyre, because as we learned the day before thet burst here far, far more often than at home.

    We stopped at Trent Tyre for the replacement. They take off the spare, then say they don't have that size, but in 2 days, it can be there. Hmmm. So we set off to the next place called Aus, 120km up the road. We had asked who sells tyres there, and the answer was Namib office. When we get there, we discover the Namib office is the only shop in town. It's owned by a nice old lady and her son ( age 50+). It's a supermarket/souvenir shop/cafe/petrol station, and importantly, tyre shop. They change the tyre in the time it takes to drink a coffee , and we are off. The "son" tells me to avoid big stones. Good advice, except that in the next 400km there are many millions, probably billions of stones.

    En route, we stop for a break and tank up at Helmeringshausen, where again, a nice old lady has a shop that sells pretty much everything, including condoms at the cashier. They're free, she tells me, aids prevention, but the locals are not much interested, despite the dashing brand name "Night Rider" 😁. Just 220km to go.

    In Namibia, any arrival time forecast by Google Maps is useless. I really don't drive slow, about 80kmph, but we still take 2 hours more than forecast.

    The drive is interesting, starts with sandy dessert, then savanah, then mountains a little bit like those we saw in Iceland, then lots of other landscapes. Eventually, it was relief that we passed those billion stones with all tyres intact. (Turns out later this is not true :()

    Our campsite is an interesting layout, with each camper having lots of space and our only little open-air bathroom, not forgetting the obligatory barbecue.

    Flo and the kids go swim in the campsite mini-pool, which is somewhat strangely very cold, so I opt for a solar powered hot shower instead.

    Then we do our first clothes wash since Moshi 13 days ago.

    We end the day with a barbecue of beef, chicken, regular sausage, and what is called here "Russian" sausage. Lennox makes the tasteful remark that we are eating Putin's penis.
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  • Sand Dunes Sossusvlei

    3 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today, we go into the heart of the desert, with its enormous sand dunes. It takes a good half hour to walk up, slightly less to slide down on your bottom.

    The guide books say you must see this in all its magnificence at dawn, so we dutifully get up at 0530. However, we get to the gate, and it's closed. Security guard insists it's only open at 0715, and we are there at 0620 😞. So we wait, and in the meantime, children have breakfast in the back.
    Then, at 0700, there is a bit of action, as an official in a military styled uniform orders me to move the car forward to the stop line. I try to do so. "Move back, you are over the stop line!" I can't see it, so he guides me. He then pulls out a note-taking board and says, "You are number 1, where are you from?, name? . Ok, you go in now and pay later when you leave. Strange, but Ok.

    So we are off along a beautiful tarmac road and arrive at the dunes 30m later.

    The dunes themselves don't impress me that much at first, but they grow on me as we climb up, and even more so when we reach a mixed landscape of dunes, died out salt lakes and long since dead trees.

    Flo and the kids, and Cedric and Audwyn can't get enough of dune climbing , so I let them carry on and sit down to watch them climb. I must have lasted 5 minutes before I fell asleep 😴. (thank goodness I was in the shade of a dead tree). I woke up an hour later. I just hoped they didn't go back without me, but that seemed unlikely. I walk back, and I bump into a driver who asks if I want to go to Seseriem for half an hour. Why not? It turns out to be super lovely and interesting. A real oasis, or so I thought. Not a fantom organa, but rather a salt lake. Surprisingly, 2 oryx were hanging out there , and they seemed unphased by myself and two others being there. After taking g a few photos, the driver is back, and I head to where the camper van is parked. Still no sign of the family, quelle surprise 😉.
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  • Sossusvlei to Swakopmund

    4 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Today, we planned to travel ONLY 320km to the next town, Swakopmund. Bearing in mind that according to the World Economic Forum, Namibia has the best roads in Africa, that should be easy, right? Wrong, wrong, wrong! This is a good example of statistics being entirely wrong because the entire premise is false. Tarmac kilometres/ population looks great, but it's entirely meaningless in a large country with a small population, where most roads, even main roads, are dirt track. Worse, they are covered in stones and sand and have innumerable ruts and potholes.

    Thus, a 320km journey with not a single town en route was a new form of hell. The camper shakes like crazy. Every now and again, a cry from the back, "X is going to fall off!". We made it though, with no burst tyres, and only the wiring for the back lights, which had shaken loose to fix.. En route, we did stop to pee and Kaka, where there was nowhere to hide, and we took photos at the sign for the tropic of Capricorn.

    30km before Swalopmund is Walis Bay, which it turns out is quite big and has lots of fancy houses, and lots more decent houses. It's not on any European tour of Namibia, but it seems other southern Africans love it for fishing and kite surfing. It looks attractive, but look closely at any photos, as it is very windy and rather cold. Nevertheless, we go for a walk along the beach where there are a lot of flamingos.

    Then around 5 pm we are in Swapokmund, and we decide to eat in a restaurant, as we can't be bothered cooking. The campsite host recommends Altstadt, and we go there and have some tasty Bavarian/Austrian food and good draft beer.

    We all have a great laugh and as we pee before leaving, the young boys, not Cedric, notice that the pictures are not sand dunes, and tumble weed, but rather women's breasts and vaginas. As we noted in Lüderitz, political correctness has not reached Namibia yet.
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  • Swakopmund

    5 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    This was a lazy but interesting day,with for me a strange highlight of having a tourist info lady who not only knew her stuff but also knew the least worst driving routes. Based on her advice, we might change our plans for the next 4 days.

    That said, there were a few other things we did, so quite an active lazy day, we visited a snake place that had a really super keeper. Black mambas , pythons, and that viper we had seen in the wild. We went for a walk along the seashore and the pier, admiring the magnificent waves, and we ate local food, including worms. Yes, worms is not a typo, intestines, and very skinny chickens. The children played in the play area until we saw a circular saw stored next to it, with the blades exposed.You can see I enjoyed a beer, and the children enjoyed making silly photos of me.
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  • Desert Wildlife

    6 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    This was a great day for the kids, a quieter one for me. They went with Flo on an educational half day in the desert to discover and understand wildlife. See Flo's blog for details.

    I, for my part, stayed on the campsite and tried to plan our stay in Myanmar. Result I have concluded that it's probably not going to happen and we will go to Laos instead. It's not the politics of the generals, as we wanted to visit to see the real people we had seen on our last trip Yangon to Mandalay, but rather the crazy burocracy and cost of entering the country. You need a visa, you need to buy health insurance, and you need a covid test pre arrival and on arrival. That is around $125 each with a risk that one positive test and they won't let you in and there is no refund. It was too expensive, too risky with a group of 6.

    At the end of the day, we went for a walk and visited a rock & crystals museum. Very interesting and educational.
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  • Swapokmund to Twyfelfontein

    7 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    Today, we have another journey that google tells us to take 4 hours. We have learned from previous mistakes, and we set out early around 8 am just in case.

    We have two stops on the road both along the 1st 100km, which is called the skeleton coast. It gets that name from producing lots of human skeletons. The people's fate generally started with one of the many shipwrecks, and of course, many simply drowned. If they survived the initial wreck then they had a high chance if dying of hypothermia, abd the lucky ones that didn't mostly died of thirst and hunger, because the coast is an endless stretch of sand and salt flats.

    Stop 1 is a recent wreck of what looks like a very large fishing boat. Now it's a bird colony. It looks like a Gannett colony, except the birds are black. Too large to be cormorants.

    Stop 2 is where you might feel like dying because it stinks, and the stonk stays on the van on our clothes and on our shoes for hours to follow. Cape Cross breaks up the sandy desert with a rocky headland drenched in massive waves that are home to tens of thousands of fur seals.

    We got out to see them, walking in their midst on a raised walkway. They showed no interest whatsoever in us being there. Why? 1/3 slept 1/3 was headed to or from the water, and the remainder was fighting or arguing. Some of the fighting is violent, and many seals have bite marks and scars. Why they fight is unclear since the entire colony is females and newborns, mo males.

    At around 1030, we set off for the remaining miles. Again, this was a hellish journey. It took us till 1630 to cover just 250km. No traffic jam, just crap roads. Future travellers will be spared at least part of this hell, as a new road is being built. We unluckily had to drive alongside the construction.

    At our camp, a couple of dampers. No power. Showers don't work. Oh, well 😞. We are so tired from hours of being shaken that we opt to eat at the camp restaurant. Od dear, they stretch some chicken and sweet potatoes that would be good for 5 to serve 8 of us.

    Small compensation, or actually quite large compensation, we have a truly wonderful desert sunset.

    Photos credit Flo ( I was driving)
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  • Pre-historic carvings & petrified forest

    8 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C

    One huge advantage of this trip is that the kids experience life, geography, and history at 1st hand. For example, in Oscar's class, they have a book about the life of children in an African village. He has been able to visit real children in real homes in Kenya and Namibia. A lot is changing, and he sees that too, in a way that books can never keep up with.

    Today, we had 1st hand lessons from two very different periods. The 1st was the era of the bushmen (4000-8000) years ago. The 2nd was the forests of 280 million years ago.

    In North West Namibia, there are several sites with bushmen carvings. I had relatively low expectations of what we would see, but I have to say I was utterly wrong. The carvings in sandstone are in magnificent condition, and better they show genuine skill and have meaning. There are maps showing the location of water, there are many pictures of giraffe that they considered to have special powers to bring rain, there are priests dressed as giraffe, and there are carvings of animal footprints used to educate young hunters. Quite incredible.

    In the same area, there is a petrified forest with trees from 280 million years ago. Huge trees more than 30m long. They are also thick and were three or four hundred years old when a glacier pushed them over and moved them hundreds of miles south. You can still see the bark and the rings. It is also incredible that all the original organic material is gone and replaced by various crystalline stones.

    We end the afternoon with a 200km drive to the next camp, which for once is a moderately bad road, i.e., one you would never drive on in Europe. We get to the camp just 30 minutes after a magnificent sunset. En route, I spotted a 🦒 and shouted to everybody to look. In my excitement, I did not see three more Giraffes and just missed crashing into a large bull. He also got a bit of a scare and ran off.
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  • Visiting real villagers

    9 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Today, we set off with a guide to visit a local farm. The walk there is an hour, and even at 0830 it's very hot. ( Midday it's 38C in the shade). The guide is suffering too, even though he is local, because he drank too much the night before.🥴 .

    This visit is interesting because it's utterly real. It's not a show for tourists. Nobody is dressed up. No music or singing, other than that from the radio.

    En route, the guide explains how the 1st land reform after independence was concieved. The basic idea was to give the tribes goats and sheep, so they would farm them and leave the wild animals alone. Each person got 5 goats and only had to hand over 5, after 5 years. Since goats have 5 or six offspring each year, that should be simple, no? Actually, when it came time to pick up the 5, quite often, the farmer had none. "Taken by hyenas " was a typical explanation. Luckily the government changed course, and encouraged farmers to take up other jobs in town, and it gave those that remained a role in wildlife conservation, and it provided water extraction and storage infrastructure, that made it possible to grow vegetables.

    And that is what we see when we arrive. A good quality water extraction, powered by solar, with 20,000 litres storage and a piping system to homes and vegetable plots. There are about 70 goats, and maybe 15 cattle. They go out each day to graze in the savanah countryside. Here, it rains in November, so there is seemingly limitless food for grazing animals.

    We visit the farmers house, it is made of breeze blocks with a corrugated metal roof.i It's much bigger than houses we saw elsewhere in Africa, with several rooms, and a toilet and wc However, before we get too excited, I should note that the house is mostly bear, with a very old dirty mattress, and assorted junk.

    Outside, they put a baby in my lap, and that all say looks cute. I guess they don't mean me. After I hand off the baby to Lola, I take up the offer to play dominoes. The farmers' brother wins both games, with me a close 2nd. (It's a game for 4). We ask about school. "It's 4km to primary and 70km to secondary, and at both the children stay for weeks, including weekends at the school." Boarding school at a very different level. No Tory toffs there.

    There is an offering of food, with what they say is porridge, but looks more like polenta, and a spinnach, potato mix. Everyone except me tries it , and apparently it tastes great, although please note the next day Oscar had fever, though there might be another reason for that, because before food they were all trying their hand at mud hut building. The mud is a water, cow shit, earth mix. Grandma aged 80 shows how it's done. Her granddaughter has a laugh at the foreigners working the shit, as she explains that this form of building is traditional, but nobody does that anymore.
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  • 3800km, camper f#*ked, passengers alive

    10 September 2022, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Today, we left Grootberg for the final 550km back to Windhoek. We thought we would have 225km of bad roads, but it turned out to be only 70km of crap. The relief of driving tarmac roads, after the endless shaking, is the closest thing to an orgasm, without the sex bit. Wow! smooth roads, wooahh 😀.

    Our grand total km is 3800. The campervan is not happy about the trip. List of injuries;

    2 flat tyres
    One cupboard door fell off (6 screws)
    One microwave oven fixing is broken in multiple places
    One door handle fell off
    Camper electrics system, broken down 2x
    One cupboard lock broken
    Dirt and grime everywhere
    Etc

    The cleaning we delegate to Windhoek Central Car wash, where 6 or more guys do a passable job in 30 minutes.

    The repairs we do ourselves. I teach Cedric and Audwyn how to use an old yoghurt pot to fix doors and handles. We brainstorm on how to fix the door handle . More yoghurt pots, of course, and it works.

    We planned the last night to go out for dinner, but Oscar is sick, so we eat in the hotel 's restaurant. A good hotel , I must say, and the chef does do a decent breakfast. However, his main meals remind me of the government canteen in the DDR, namely awful, really awful. Nevertheless, we are all happy, and after exchanging stories , we slope off to bed. Luxury, real beds!
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  • Namibians can't read Hebrew

    11 September 2022, Etiopia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    and neither can I, but by some minor miracle, we are en route to Tel Aviv via Addis Abbiba, a 12 hour journey that almost didn't happen.

    Lesson for Ian: check, check, and check again entry requirements!

    In the case of Israel, it turns out that whilst we don't need a visa, we do need to make a pre-flight online health declaration. In fact it's not a health declaration at all, we could have the pest, syphilis and 20 other diseases but they do not check for those, just Covid documentation, which we have if course, HOWEVER

    I hastily tried to enter my details into the Israeli Health Ministry online form. They want dates of all vaccinations and a pdf certificate. For all 6 of us! And of course, loads of other data, though thankfully not as much as the world champions (India 6 × 8 pages , including my (dead) fathers occupation).

    I get to the final pages. Upload failed! Try again later? Continue without PDF? OK, but then there is an endless spiral on the page. I hit refresh, and the whole thing goes back to the start page.

    So I try again ×3, and Flo does, too. Always the same uploads fail, scans of QR codes fail,...and then the endless loop, before crashing.

    Ok, give up on phones. Let's try pc. Page doesn't load ....page loads only partially. This goes on for 15 minutes, before finally I get it to load, and voila it works 1st time, but we have a maximum of 10 minutes to board, and we have 5 more to do 😩 . BUT, we now know all the data that governments want by heart, and we get the other 5 done in record time.

    We have our green certificates for Israel 😀 , let's show it at the gate.

    The boarding lady says it doesn't have your name on it. I explained that it's in Hebrew, and that is my passport number. You can check! She thinks about it a bit, and without more checks, she lets us go 😀😃🙂.

    I realized later when I was so ignorant that I had forgotten Hebrew was written right to left, but whatever the case, the document bamboozled the boarding lady
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  • Unfortunately only transfer Addis Abbiba

    11 September 2022, Etiopia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We would love to visit Ethiopia, Nora Skye even more so as her God mother is Ethiopian, but at the time we booked there was a war going on here, and on top a stopover of a few days had a high $ cost. So hopefully, next time 🙏Baca selengkapnya

  • Reflections on Africa

    11 September 2022, Etiopia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We have just spent nearly 6 weeks in Africa, and visited 5 countries, each of them so different and special in different ways.

    We would have loved to visit more of Africa, but because we travel with the children, our friends with local knowlwdge advised against many countries for security reasons, and simply thought some others had nothing to offer in addition to those that we had planned. Maybe some day, we can take the children to Mali, or more likely we will have to wait for them to take us. So alongside my mostly positive impressions this time, I should emphasize that we cherry picked safe countries, and in our beloved Mali there is not even the faintest light at the end of the tunnel.

    What are the big positives?

    1 .Life is improving for many

    Basic hygiene and clean water are now much more widespread than when we visited 15 years ago.

    Infrastructure, such as roads has in some cases improved beyond what we dreamed of (e.g. Kenya), and we see work in progress elsewhere (e.g. Namibia)

    Corruption still hides behind every corner, but in some countries there is effective oversight ( e.g. Rwanda).

    Political violence is sharply down. In Kenya last month, elections were again disputed, but without the violence of the past. In Egypt daily life is much more peaceful than under the end of the Mubarak regime or the Muslim brotherhood.

    2. Africans are overwhelmingly young, hopeful and increasingly bettrr educated.

    The average age in Rwanda is 19! In other countries I haven't seen figures but I think it must be below 30, and that despite sharp increases in life expectancy.

    As far as we could tell, all the countries we visited had a full education system for 5 to 16 year olds, and the understanding that to get on in life you need an education was widespread. I was super impressed by a very poor young boy in Rwanda's determination to move up. His command of English was as large as the holes in his only t-shirt. I was also touched in Kenya by Jeff a driver, and how he had pulled himself up, and how he was determined to do all he could, so that his children would climb more.

    3. Africa does have models that work in the African context

    Rwanda is frankly an outstanding example of how to make things work in Africa. It's community service (umaganda) means it is clean and beautiful. It's moved from a horrible tribal past , to a non tribal future. In small steps its economy develops by adding jobs that are one up from agriculture, even if it's only making potato chips, or pineapple juice.

    All African leaders need to do a sabbatical in Rwanda.

    Rwanda is for sure far from perfect: it's not a real democracy; it does have human rights issues; BUT it's absolutely a stand out example for Africa.

    4. Anyone can visit where we visited and you will be given a heartfelt warm welcome.

    Before we left a friend working in an African NGO advised against visiting Kenya. Their concerns were, I say with hindsight, clichéd and very western, and not at all fact based. At least diplomatic guidance was clear that it was unlikely there would be any trouble due to the elections. So we went, and we were rewarded with a wonderful time.

    15 years ago our experience of Kenya was that you would for dure have some bad experiences. You'd be overcharged for a trip with poor transport, and poor accommodation. You would often not feel safe . Well a combination of attitude changes and the internet bringing transparency on quality, traveller's experieces, and pricing the fast buck and the rip-off have (largely) been replaced by the desire to get good reviews. Booking.com is a force for good 👍 😉.

    We saw improvements, everywhere in this regard except for some steps backward in Tanzania . It seems they still haven't in many cases understood how to charm rather than repell visitors.

    5. The wonderful wildlife and natural beauty spots are mostly well manged ( but they are often under threat)

    But for drought, most nature resources seem better managed than in the past with the clear exception being Tanzania.

    6. Development projects are delivering in a way they did not in the past.

    It's not clear what made the difference, but now roads, hospitals and schools are being built to good standards. Water is cleaner and subsidies are helping communities to buy photovoltaics and utilize solar power.

    What are the big negatives?

    1. The countries we visited are safe, but that is often not the case in Africa

    2 Wealth is not trickling down. It's in the hands if very few.

    It's a misconception that the US is capitalism pure. It has basic safety nets. In Africa there is no safety net, there are only weak mechanisms to foster equality.

    Take Namibia it has a GDP of $5000 per head, but over half the population have less than $2 per day.

    3. Drought, doughty, drought

    Humans and wildlife, and plants are all suffering in East Africa from droughts. Is it climate change? I don't know for one simple reason. Our press in the West has almost zero coverage of Africa so I lack information. What is certain is that expert help is needed to deal with droughts.

    4. Population growth may limit or eliminate the gains of economic growth.

    Rwanda is growing at am impressive 8% per year, but unless it does more to dampen population growth, they will struggle to reduce the numbers in poverty. Anecdotally we saw the same issue in Namibia.

    Hallo family planning!

    What to do, from outside?

    Aid spent on infrastructure looks like a good I investment, as do efforts to improve schools and reduce corruption.

    I am totally unconvinced that micro finance for local arts; crafts bring much, since the Chinese can "sculpt" a wooden giraffe more cheaply, and they do ethic necklaces as well.

    Far better to support investment in manufacturing that adds value, or services that meet local needs. There are good examples if Afican apps.

    Communicate and spread best practices need to be fostered, as they have huge potential, but are asvifvtoday little used.
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  • Tel Aviv

    12 September 2022, Israel ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    We arrived here at 4am. after crossing most of Africa from Namibia with a stopover in Addis Abbiba.

    We stay for cost reasons in a guest house, that from the outside looks dilapidated, well because it is. The taxi driver tells us that it's a great location right next to the beach ⛱️ , and we chose it because it had great reviews. So, let's see how this goes. We got in with a key in a safebox. The room is large, with plenty of beds, and there is a kitchen and bathroom too, all very basic. Kids love it, me and Flo, not sure yet.

    The big question of the kids is, where is [big brother] Alex? Since he joins us here today, and in fact, he is here ahead of us staying in a hostel
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  • Alex, & time for a wash and a break

    12 September 2022, Israel ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    "Will Alex meet us at the airport? err no we arrive at 4am. "When will we see Alex?" I don't know. "Why don't you know?". I just don't.

    Those are some snippets of repeated conversations with Lola and Nora, who are particularly keen to see Alex. Not that the boys are not also enthusiastic they just don't press for answers 🙄.

    Al shows up around 1030 before the kids are up, so as a treat, he goes to wake them. Some show less enthusiasm for waking up 🤣, but soon their energy returns and the demands on Alex skyrocket in number.

    This part of the trip is our bridge from Africa to Asia. We had two options from Namibia that could work, namely Israel or Turkey. I chose Israel because of a combination of factors. I had always wanted to see more of Israel, as last time I was here there was open conflict (Intifada) and I just stayed in Tel Aviv/ Jaffa with my business partners. 2nd, and that made the choice easy, I managed to get three of our tickets free with air miles, and 3rd the flight onwards to Uzbekistan was more convenient and less expensive.

    We all have breakfast and then spend most of the day at the beach. It's wonderfully clean, and the water temperature is perfect at around 29C

    After that Flo has orgasmic feelings as for the 1st time in 6 weeks she has use of a washing machine. Oooo, aaah. Actually I think we are all happy to be free of dirt and grime, even if we now substitute the red earth if Africa, with Mediterranean sand.

    The day ends with a meal of "shared" plates at a humous restaurant. "Fought over" would be a better description, as we all wolfed down the delicious food.
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  • Jaffa & Surfing 🏄‍♂️ 🌊

    13 September 2022, Israel ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The day started with middle eastern food for brunch around 1130. The timing does not mean the kids are lazy, no no, they did 2-3 hours of school before getting food. 😉

    Then we again spend a few hours at the ⛱️ beach. Lennox, Lola and Nora all take a surfing lesson, and voila to my surprise and joy they all manage to stand up on the boards and surf.

    After the beach, the kids went back to home schooling until 7:30 pm ! A strange lifestyle, but still very effective educationally.

    Early to bed? Not a chance! We are off to Jaffa that neighbors Tel Aviv. Alex leads a whirlwind tour of the old city that is packed with religious buildings of all 3 major faiths. It's also packed with historic buildings from the Ottoman and British Empires.

    We end the day at Akbar, a middle eastern restaurant, where again we have to order more as all the plates empty very quickly.
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  • Carmel Market Tel Aviv

    14 September 2022, Israel ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was a quiet day for me, well, except for spending a lot of time to try to get our passports out of customs and failing.

    The kids went surfing 🏄‍♀️ in the morning, and then Alex guided them to Carmel market and later to a cool part of town for dinner. I caught up at the end of the market stroll, in time to see a little of the market, and to pay for sweets for all, at the biggest sweet shop ever. Total cost $12 😀.

    After the kids were in bed, Alex and I went to a local bar to watch the local champions, Haifa, play Paris St Germain. Although the locals initially led 1-0, they eventually were crushed by PSG's stars Mnappe, Neymeyer, and Messi 3-1. Compared with other places, Israelis seem less patronage about football
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  • Jerusalem

    15 September 2022, Palestina ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Note: The software says we were in Palestine, but I have no idea where the official border is and where the conflicting claims start and end. So please don't infer any political inference on my side.

    Today, we visited Jerusalem. The journey was somewhat easier than that of the crusades, but we did have a difficult start. Tel Aviv is one of the last places where there is a closed market for taxis. Result, it's very difficult to get one. Yesterday I couldn't get one at all. This morning, we again would have missed the train if it had not been late because it took 30 minutes to get a taxi to the station. The poor crusaders might never have made it because they wouldn't have had the Tel Aviv taxi app.

    Enough silliness, we are off to the most fought over holy city in history ( as far as I can tell), and we arrive around 1030, in what must be good competition with Moscow for the deepest train station in the world, and probably the only one with massive bomb blast doors two escalators down ( out of 4 in total).

    Various people help us find the old city, including an old gentleman from Glasgow. It is weird to meet someone who has the same strong accent as Frankie, dressed in traditional clothes.

    The old city itself is split into 4 parts, Christian, Jewish, Muslim, and Armenian. We take a free walking tour, with guide Tania, who turns out to be really excellent. 1st main stop is the Christian quarter and the church of the holy sepulchre. This, for me, explains why I have little time for religion. The church was fought until 1850 fought over by catholics, orthodox, Armenians, ethiopian Christians, and more. In that year, they came to an agreement to define specific parts of the church for each sect. Why do they fight? , well, there is a cave under the church where Jesus arose from the dead. Protestants think it's the wrong cave, and the right one is 3km away on the mount if olives 🫒 🤔 .
    Of course that's not the end of it, next we are in the Muslim quarter which has a souk (market), and where the guide explains that Jordan controlled Jerusalem from 1948 ( Independence) until the 6 day war in 1967 where the coordinated Arab attack backfired disastrously giving Israel control of not just Jerusalem but also the West Bank, and other areas. Of course, in terms of religion, two Muslim things are noticeable, first the calls to prayers, and 2nd the Al Akbar mosque. The latter is actually just outside the current limits of the old city that are defined by the Ottoman built wall, and it is only accessible from the Jewish quarter. Tania tells us that it was Moses who suggested Mohammed go back several times to God to reduce his wish for prayers 50 times a day, to just 5 times a day. Thank goodness for Moses.
    Onward to the Jewish quarter, which is noticeablely different , without any market or restaurants, and on to the Western Wall, which has high religious significance for Judaism since it is all that remains of the original temple. We separate into male and female groups and have a look at the wall and those praying there. We expect solemnity and quiet prayers, but what we experience is a bustling and somewhat chaotic mix of prayers and tourists. Oscar and I have no baseball caps, so we don white kippas for this step.
    Finally, the Armenian quarter. Why is there an Armenian quarter at all you may ask, and the answer is that according to the Bible, Noah's ark came to rest on a mountain in Armania. (What is not at all clear is how Armenians came to control a quarter in old Jerusalem).
    At around 530pm, after seven hours,on a very hot day, we are all exhausted , and head off back to Tel Aviv by tram, train, and lastly, bus. Children fall asleep almost instantly so that Flo ,Alex, and I once have a chance to chat and exchange photos over a beer in the modest lounge of the guest house.
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  • Baptism of Nora & Oscar in river Jordan

    16 September 2022, Israel ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    Today, we said goodbye to our son/bother/stepson and guide Alex. He helped us to the end by finding the correct bus stop for Tiberias on the sea of Galilee.

    We realize on the bus that we need to be careful with Google maps since it says buses back depart after 1700, but then we read the small print, and it's 1700 on Saturday. Today, Friday, the last bus back is 1600, so since on the way here we arrive 30 mins late, we only have 3.5 hours here, less time for two taxis, and a bit of buffer, that was 2.5 hours.

    In that short time, we made a short visit to a kibbutz, baptized Nora Skye and Oscar Bernard, and hung out in a hippy cafe.

    The kibbutz , called Degania Alef, was founded 110 years ago. It started modestly with 8 settlers, and now it's home for 400 adults and 200 children. I remember in the 70s and 80s, one of the popular hippy travel destinations was Israeli kibbutz. It had a cooperative hippy image, though I am not sure what the reality was. More recently, settlements on the West Bank are established with settlers at the other end of the political and cultural spectrum.

    An old lady riding an electric wheelchair gives us a quick informal history and explanation of how buildings have been used over time. This kind of being helpful to strangers/ lost tourists is something we often experience.

    We then head for Yardenit to see the site on the Jordan River where it's claimed John the Baptist started the ceremony. The Jordan River is quite green and pretty, and we can see from where it leaves the sea of Galilee, the white robes of Christians being baptized in the river, i.e., the whole body goes under the surface.

    We ask at a shop on the site if we can baptize Nora Skye and Oscar. The assistant tells us there is no priest on duty, but we can do it ourselves 🙄. So we do!

    The background is that whilst Lennox and Lola were baptized in Saanen, we failed to get our act together for the younger two. That's only in part due to the complex logistics of getting Ethiopian, US, and Swiss godparents in the same place at the same time. Mostly, we just didn't push hard enough for an agreed date.

    I am a hard-core atheist, but I still see value in children having God parents. Though it's more like a special aunt or uncle than anything to do with God.

    We watch some Americans to check the procedure, and we define Flo as "priest" and myself as cameraman...and off we go..."In the name of the father, son [pause as Flo regains her composure after getting understandably emmotional]...and holy ghost, I baptize you Oscar Bernard McGillivray, [ dunk Oscar],....In the name of the father, son and holy ghost, I baptize you Nora Skye McGillivray, [ dunk Nora]. Then the kids swim a bit and have photos taken.

    Religious ceremony complete we head over to Rob Roy, a hippy cafe on the river, to celebrate the baptisms with ice cream and cold fizzy drinks.

    Then we head back to Tel Aviv. Everything is closed, big shops, small shops, and even McDonalds. Nothing, absolutely nothing open. They take the sabbath super seriously here. We heard it's different in Tel Aviv. Let's see when we get back at 1805.

    We reach Tel Aviv, and to our relief, some restaurants are open, but not that busy, so we head for Akbar in Jaffa, and again, we gave super food and beer.
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  • Lazy day at the beach

    17 September 2022, Israel ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    There's not much up today, but heh everyone needs a break now and again.

    Kids did home schooling in the morning, and we did the clothes washing.

    Spent the afternoon at the beach with the kids surfing, and later we eat for the 3rd time at the local hummus restaurant.Baca selengkapnya

  • Tel Aviv to Tashkent ( Uzbekistan)

    18 September 2022, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    This is one of those days where we have a long journey. Up at 6 am to get to the airport 3 hours early as security can take a long time, or so we thought. Security and passport control were fast, even speedy, but Uzbekistan 🇺🇿 airways check-in is chaotic due to people skipping the queue and the queue repeatedly stopping whilst passengers went off to pay for excess baggage. So we play the silly games too and get checked in. Small panic as the Americans in front of us are refused because they don't have a visa. We don't have one either, but luckily, our assessment thar we don't need one was correct. We board and leave on time.

    Long flight of 5 hours, my attempts to sleep, regularly interrupted by bump from a long queue of fat toilet goers pushing past.

    On arrival, we follow the instructions of the hotel
    "Getting from the airport instruction:

    1) There is a crowd of hungry taxi drivers pulling out your hands and legs ))) Waiting for you outside the airport building, so that’s the finest hour to show your best poker face. With the poker face, you should cross the parking and get to the road. There you can lift a hand and one of the passing cars will stop. You can also go with the taxi drivers staying at the parking, but they charge more (3$-10$)

    2) The normal price to get to the hotel is 25 000 – 30 000 soum (2.5$-3$). If you managed to get lower price, congratulations, you bargain better than us )) If you don’t have uzbek soum or small dollar bills to pay the taxi, you can always ask the reception to pay and you can refund later.

    3) ATTENTION! Do not change money with taxi drivers. You will be able to change money later, and we will give you some tips and instructions ;-)

    4) Most taxi drivers in Uzbekistan are not competent enough to know the names of the streets and hotels. So you should tell the names of places near to the hotel: Mirabad district, Ivleeva street, opposite of hotel "7 DAYS".

    5) If you were not lucky to have a taxi driver who would take you to the right place, you can ask him to call to the hotel +99895 193 39 93, +99897 4040429 and we will give him directions.

    6)ATTENTION ! In our hotel is not allowed with pets.

    7) Congratulations, you are here ))"

     It is all quite easy, but nice of the hotel to set expectations and give typical prices.

    1st thing we do is explore the art & architecture of the metro.

    Afterwards, we went for typical Uzbech dinner, which was loads of different meats, sausages, and local bread. Served with alcohol free Mojito.. . 5 litres thereof 😉.

    Children to bed, Flo and I enjoy one beer, then off to bed too.
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