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Jaisalmer

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    • Day 20

      Jaisalmer

      August 27, 2022 in India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Üses Abteil im Nachtzug isch erstaunlicherweise es ganz normals Abteil gsi und mir hei üs sogar chönne vorstelle das mir die Nacht chönnte schlafe 😅 Nach de erste paar Haltestelle si denn aber immer meh Lüt igstige und mir si plötzlich 10gsi für 8 Bett und eine isch uf üsem Bett am schlafe gsi. Ihres Englisch isch sehr begrenzt gsi und drum heimer das Problem uf nachem Znacht (ds Indisch Pick nick Angebot isch sehr beschränkt gsi) verschobe. Womer de alli glich uf üsne Bette si gsi isch de d Nacht ou schnell verbi gange und de Kameltrek-Organisator het miteme Schild am Bahnhof uf üs gewartet. Wöu ersch 5i am Morge isch gsi simer zersch nomal is Bett bevor dasmer denn de Tag in Jaisalmer verbracht hei. Je witer das mir vo Delhi chöme desto besser gfalle üs d Städt. Es isch zwar immer no sehr warm aber mitem Wind und viu weniger Lüt ou besser zum ertrage. Mir hei sogar e schöne Ort für de Sunneuntergang mit Ussicht uf die ganzi Stadt gfunde.
      Hüt am Morge heimer üs de no uf d Suechi nach de Post gmacht und üsi lezte Postkarte verschickt und freue üs ize uf 2 Täg I de Wüesti 🐫
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    • Day 33

      Rajasthan

      December 27, 2022 in India ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      So i bins wider amol dor Rene...
      Mir hoben ins afn weg gemocht richtung Jodhpur und hoben sem ober unterwegs an kloanen Stopp in dor heiligen Stott Pushkar eingelg... Sem homor ins di Märkte ungshaug und endlich amol net überrennte und zu laute Strasler ohgeplappert. Ban heilgen Sea (Pushkar lake) hobense obr no fost mit in zommgeben gewellt weilmor sem nochdem dasse vor ins gebetet hoben a Geld gewellt ergaunern, obr mir ins logisch gewehrt hoben... Anshunsten wor Pushkar volle shian und hot viele shiane Ladeler und Restaurants kop (in oan hot di Lisa sem Spaghetto aglio e olio gessen, und worn net amol letz...)

      In tog drauf seinmor nocher in ca 5 stunden noch Jodhpur gforn und hoben ins sem an Tempel ungshaug, a Monument ausn 18 Johrhundert und is berühmte Mehrangarh Fort wos genau über dor blauen Stott isch... Wo mor nocher a in Sunnenuntergong gschaug hoben...
      Afnocht homor no in Clocktower gsegn und in Abendmarkt mit olls Obst un Gemüse... Speter hoben mor ins sem nocher no a eppes zu essen gegönnt...

      Mir sein weiter gforen und hoben di negsten 2 Toge in Jaisalmer (Goldene Stott) verbocht. Sem homor ins di gonze Stott awia ungshaug weil di sel besteat olls aus Urolten Sondgestoan (deswegn an goldene Stott) und di Hausmauern sein volle shian eingemeiselt worden... Also wirklich di shianste Stott bis is iaz...
      Und in negsten Tog in 24. isches nocher losgongen mitn Jeep ausi in dor Wüste, wo mor nocher noch ca 2h fohrt umgstiegen sein af a Kamel wo mor nocher no 1h weiter in di Wüste ausi sein... Di einheimischen hoben sem nocher für ins gekocht und speter gonz in ihmene Style mit Weihnochten gfeiert. Mir hoben sem a glei nuie Freundschoften gschlossen und sel mit a polnischen Schauspieler der a schun in a Film af Netflix spielt und a Vietnamesischen Filmdirektor der mit seiner Firma awia unterwegs wor... I glab so Weihnochten mittlt af di Sonddünen wermor sicher nia mehr erleben. Gschlofen homor logisch unter freiem Himmel afn stoanhertn Bodn ba ca 9 C°. Ober es hot sich ausgezolt und wor wk a oanmaliges Erlebniss.

      In negsten Tog seinmor nocher über 6h weiter richtung Süden gforen noch Udaipur. Wo mor ins nocher a fa inseren Fohrer Raj verobschieden gemiast hoben... Fa Udaipur seinmor nocher mit Nochtbus noch Mumabi und wos sel für a Fohrt wor kenntes nocher ban negsten post lesen...

      ps.man konn sichs joh shun awia denken...

      Enkre Wüstensurvivaler

      Rene&Lisa
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    • Day 4

      Mona Lisa Smile

      December 30, 2022 in India ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      We’re in Jaisalmer and staying in a hotel within the walls of the Fort for the next two days until we begin the Run. The hotel is an old residence built in 1400 and the descendants of the original owners are still living here and are managing the hotel.

      Jaisalmer Fort is situated in the city of Jaisalmer, in the north western Indian state of Rajasthan. It is believed to be one of the very few "living forts" in the world as nearly one fourth of the old city's population still resides within the fort. For the better part of its 860-year history, the fort was the city of Jaisalmer. The first settlements outside the fort walls, to accommodate the growing population of Jaisalmer, are said to have come up in the 17th century.

      This place is incredible. It is amazing that 28,000 people are living in this ancient structure, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The only vehicles allowed in here are motorcycles and their drivers bomb around through tiny narrow streets honking their horns and literally club into you if you don’t get out of the way.

      The lobby of this hotel is a testament to its history. The photos of the ancestors are on the walls. They have a little temple in the lobby where they leave daily offerings.

      The most interesting thing we experienced when we checked in was that the proprietor, the great great great grandson of one of the original owners, was really proud of the fact that he had two Mona Lisa portraits in his lobby. The original one (a copy, obviously) and her Indian cousin.

      The ancient world still lives on here.
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    • Day 5

      Jiminy Crickets…

      December 31, 2022 in India ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      We spent the last day of 2022 doing Rickshaw Run Training and Orientation, recovering from that, attending the launch party and celebrating New Year’s Eve. I have no words.

      Well, I guess I do.

      It was an overwhelming cacophony of chaos, noise and dust mixed with a plunge into a state of extreme anxiety as it became crystal clear to us what we have committed to do. That was all mixed up with meeting a lot of extremely interesting people from all around the world who are just as crazy as we are. We attended the launch party that evolved into basically a disco for all of the under 30 something’s who are here. Then we ended the year sitting on the top of the roof of our hotel together drinking a much needed bottle of wine and watching the fireworks and feeling grateful for all of the blessings we experienced in 2022.

      Let’s start with the auto rickshaw training part. We met our mighty steed (name tbd), decorated as we had requested with the colors of the Italian flag and Forza Volpe ( Go Strong Volpe) on the front and the Sicilian flag on the back in honor of Joe’s heritage, and a number 60 on the side for his birthday. It’s basically a baking tin with a motor and wheels. Four gears, clutch on left handle, throttle on right. Brake under right foot.

      We couldn’t figure out how to start it for about an hour. Then we realized the gas line wasn’t open. By then all of the other way more mechanically inclined drivers were racing around the dirt training track. There was dust everywhere and people shouting and screaming and all of the social media savvy people using their Go Pros and selfie sticks and whatever else.

      There are 65 rickshaws on this tour. The designs - how people requested them to be painted - were so wonderfully creative. That’s another post entirely.

      When we got into the rickshaw to start driving it we realized that we had a stowaway on board - a huge grasshopper that we named Jiminy Cricket was sitting on the inside of the roof. We decided that Jiminy was God giving us a good luck sign. We hope he sticks around.

      Joe managed to do pretty well with the driving. Then it was my turn. “Shift up” he kept saying, sitting in the back seat. “What the hell are you talking about?,” I responded. “There’s no up, there is only however I am supposed to crank my wrist forward or backwards.” It degraded from there. I made it around the circle once slower than everybody else was going and then had to take a time out and has a serious meltdown.

      Joe tried again and got better at it. He even managed to figure out how to go backwards. I took another crack at it and was basically just stressed out the entire time, throttling too hard on the gas when switching gears, not really coordinated with the brake, worried I was going to hit someone.

      There was a local guy there selling “upgrades”. A fancier and better seat cushion. Yes, please. How about a cell phone charger. Yes, please. Maybe a louder horn. Yes, please. How about a better mirror on the right side. Yes, please. All for about 60 bucks US. That led us to spending three hours standing around waiting for I couldn’t count how many Indian people it took to install nicely colored cushions, do a bunch of electrical work, put a bright red horn on the front, and replace the mirror.

      By then it was time to go back to our hotel and get dressed for New Year’s. We managed to secure some pretty awesome locally made coats hand crafted by women in Rajasthan. To wear to the party. The owner of the shop found out we were Rickshaw Runners and asked us to do an Instagram cameo and handed us about 20 business cards to help promote his work to uplift local women out of poverty and preserve an ancient craft.

      We headed to the launch party, hosted at the local palace, and spent the evening chatting with various other Rickshaw Runners. The music started and all the young people, who had been pounding beers all night, started partying. We took that as a sign to head back to our hotel and we ascended onto the rooftop to watch the local fireworks and enjoy a bottle of Indian made wine (yes that is a thing) and just felt so blessed for everything we experienced in 2022.

      Happy New Year to all of our friends and family reading this. We appreciate you following our adventure!
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    • Day 9

      Jaisalmer

      February 22, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

      Après une bonne nuit récupératrice, nous sommes allés au restaurant sur le rooftop de l'hôtel. Depuis la terrasse nous avions vu sur le fort de Jaisalmer, une vraie beautée!
      Nous avons enfin trouvé des plats pour lequels nous avons pris un réel à manger, une crêpe au nutella pour Leo et un porridge à la banane de mon côté, tout ce qu'il y a de plus local vous l'aurez compris..
      Après à peine une semaine, la nourriture française nous manque déjà, qu'est ce sera dans 5 mois 😅.

      Pour le reste de la journée, nous avons bien visité la ville avec son fort. Par hasard nous avons retrouvé le duo français rencontré 2j avant à Bikaner, nous avons donc continué la visite tous ensemble.
      C'est une ville très touristique. Ils se sont donc adaptés aux touristes, c'est pour cela qu'il y a beaucoup de boutiques de vêtements / bijoux et très peu de street food où les touristes n'osent guère s'aventurer à cause de l'hygiène douteuse.
      Dans les petites rues commerciales du fort, nous nous faisions aborder tous les 3 pas (c'est à dire à chaque boutique😅). Mais les gens étaient sympas et ne forcaient pas trop la main, ce n'était donc pas désagréable.
      Finalement, nous avons fini la journée en ayant chacun fait l'acquisition d'un beau t-shirt à manches longues, vous aurez l'occasion de le voir plus tard 😉.

      Le soir, nous nous sommes dirigés vers le lac Gadisar pour observer le couché de soleil. C'était super. Cependant un peu dommage qu'il ait été envahi de Pédalos pour satisfaire les touristes..
      Enfin, nous sommes allés au restaurant. Une fois de plus, nous pensions avoir commandé une valeur sûre en ayant pris des pâtes au fromage et à la sauce tomate, mais ça s'est avéré être infecte... Leur fromage avait un goût totalement différent du gruyere que l'on met généralement sur les pâtes en France. Belle déception.
      Nous avons donc commandé un burger vege, 2e source sûre (normalement), mais cette fois ci c'était la galette de pomme de terre qui était TRÈS TRES particulière.
      Bref suite à ce repas, notre ventre a fait des bruits étranges toute la nuit 😂

      En rentrant à l'hôtel, nous nous sommes retrouvés au milieu d'un défilé d'un mariage. Il faut savoir qu'à cette époque de l'année, c'est la saison des mariages, il y en a énormément de tous les côtés. Nous avons donc pu sentir brièvement l'ambiance festive qui y régnait.
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    • Day 10

      2e jour à Jaisalmer

      February 23, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

      Aujourd'hui nous avons décidé de sortir nous promener le matin pour éviter les trop grosses chaleurs de l'après midi (entre 30 et 32°C à l'ombre on tire bien la langue, même si en France avec ces températures on roule des épaules en prétendant qu'étant des sudistes, ça ne nous fait pas peur...).
      Nous avons exploré un nouveau côté de la ville ce qui nous a permis d'avoir un point de vue sur le fort différent.

      Puis en déambulant nous sommes tombés par hasard sur des magnifiques haveli (photo 1), notamment la Nathmal Haveli !
      Dans une rue annexe, il y avait un monsieur qui jouait de la musique et chantait. Après nous avoir demandé nos prénoms, il a fait un chant pour nous souhaiter la bienvenue à Jaisalmer 😍 !

      Pendant les heures chaudes de l'après midi, nous sommes restés à l'hôtel. Nous avons profité de ce petit moment de pause pour faire une lessive et écrire nos différents articles et décortiquer notre interview de Navjyoti (c'est un métier à part entière de faire de la com 😅 !).

      Le soir nous sommes ressortis à la recherche de quelques chose de familier à ce mettre dans le ventre. Nous avons opté pour une pizzeria. Elles n'étaient pas trop mal bien que très épicées, au point qu'on n'ait pas senti la différence entre nos 2 pizzas 😅...
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    • Day 10

      10. Tag: Fahrt Pushkar nach Jaisalmer

      July 15, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

      Da weder der direkte Nachtbus noch der direkte Zug fuhren, fuhren wir bis Jodhpur und bekamen dort zum Glück einen Anschlussbus nach Jaisalmer.
      So saßen wir von 7:00Uhr - 18:30Uhr im Bus, wurden dann aber mit dem tollen "Hotel Desert Homestay" mit genialer Dachterrasse entlohnt 😅!Read more

    • Day 11

      11.Tag: Jaisalmer

      July 16, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

      Ein fauler Erholungstag
      Wir haben ausgeschlafen und sind durch die wunderschönen Gassen gebummelt. Die Temperatur (~38°C) hat uns etwas lahmgelegt. Heute Nacht schlafen wir oben auf der Dachterrasse im Freien 😊.Read more

    • Day 27–30

      Jaisalmer

      March 1 in India ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      We left Ahmadabad to catch a quick 2 hour flight to Jaisalmer. Before we left we had a beautiful breakfast in the flower courtyard.

      After a super short flight we arrived and we got picked up by the hotel's taxi. We're staying inside the old fort at the top of Jaisalmer as you're guaranteed to get a great view from your room and/or their rooftop restaurant. We didn't sleep due to both having pretty heavy colds our first night but had to change hotel anyway because they were full and we'd only initially booked one night.

      It was a blessing in disguise as the next place we booked was 500 year old family home still owned by the ancestors who served the city's Maharaja and who now have three beautiful heritage suites their booking out to guests. Our room is stunning with beautifully carved pillars and a tiny balcony to relax on. Our host is also super attentive and so helpful, plus very knowledgeable to boot. The perfect place to lay low and ride out our colds.

      We haven't done a great deal since arriving due to illness but we have watched the sunset from the roof, our host gave us a free walking tour of the town and we ate the best food we've had so far this trip. As we're starting to feel better we hope to venture out and visit some other sites and book our camel safari.

      In the meantime we'll keep watching the pigeons trying to roost on our wall and watch the sunsets.
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    • Day 30–33

      Jaisalmer - Indian weddings

      March 4 in India ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      After another few uneventful days of recovering from colds and James getting another boat of food poisoning, we booked our camel safari and retreated back to our room.
      Our lovely family hosts had invited us to their cousin's wedding, which we missed the first day of because of James' illness, but the second evening we managed to attend the ceremony of the groom, and his family, going to the bride's family home. He does this on a white mare and with a lot of pomp and ceremony and of course loud music and lots of dancing.

      Every night if our stay we'd heard very loud drumming and music playing until 3am so it was nice to actually witness the events it was coming from. We were told it's wedding season so that's means multiple wedding every evening in Jaisalmer for many weeks.

      It was a sight to behold. The horse was elaboratly decorated and so calm in the face of such loud drumming and music. Well wishers would circle money around the grooms face and then hand it to the man at his side who'd keep it safe for the happy couple to star their matrimonial life with. All the family members were in their most beautiful elaborate finery, making me feel the most under dressed ever. As we moved away from their house the procession got bigger and bigger and the pictures and donations kept flooding in. If you think UK wedding photographers take a lot of photos, wait to see you a Indian wedding photographer. They pretty much dictate the whole event. Making sure they get every moment looking perfect and not missing a single second.

      We followed the procession only part of the route as we had to be up early the for our camel safari, but I definitely got my wish to see part of an Indian wedding.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Jaisalmer, Горад Джайсалмер, জয়সলমের, জয়সালমের, Džaisalmér, Τζαϊσαλμέρ, જેસલમેર, Jailsamer, जैसलमेर, Dzsaiszalmer, JSA, ジャイサルメール, 자이살메르, ജയ്സാൽമീർ, जेसलमेर, ଜୈସଲମେର, ਜੈਸਲਮੇਰ, جیسلمیر, Джайсалмер, ஜெய்சல்மேர், 贾沙梅尔

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