Ireland
Munster

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    • Day 71

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 6

      June 23, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      We decided to take a drive along a small fraction of the 2500 km Wild Atlantic Way today. This is a tourism trail along the southern, western and northern coasts of Ireland. Kinsale is near the southern terminal point so we began there this morning. We made no commitment how far we were going to travel today. We have learned that travel on many of Ireland's winding, narrow rural roads force you to slow down. It's a good opportunity to enjoy the vistas.

      The first destination was to travel to Old Head, a lighthouse point in Cork County. We didn't realize that we weren't able to actually make it to the lighthouse as the land is now privately owned by a golf course. We did stop just outside the golf course entrance at a memory point for the Lusitania, an Irish passenger ship that was sunk by a German torpedo during WWI about 10 miles off the coast of our observation point.

      Ireland's tourism industry has detailed many points of interest along the way. We knew that we'd have several other opportunities so we picked a few tentative destination points.

      Along the way we stopped for a game of miniature golf that was located in an adventure park. It was hard to picture youth navigating the ropes course without injury as it looked rather daunting; however, that part wasn't open.

      We stopped in a roadside fish and chips stand in the village of Rosscarbery. The portions were massive and the fish was very fresh and delicious.

      We then made our way next to Baltimore Beacon a very unusual shaped structure dating from 1850 to alert sailors about the rocky shore. It's known locally as “Lot’s Wife”, a Biblical story reference about a woman getting turned into a pillar of salt.

      Before we arrived we took time to sit by a peaceful cove as we listened to the water slap against a small moored sailboat.

      On site at the Beacon, we noted that the nearby cliffs were really dramatic without any protective barrier beyond a line of barbed wire. We loved the view to sea although I was a bit nervous to get too close to the edge.

      We then made our way back to our flat, having been on the road for several hours. We both noted how unusual it is to see verdant pastures and hills along the coast. If you look in one direction, you'd think you were in farmland in Pennsylvania and across the road the rugged Maine coast. It's an interesting collage of geographical features.

      After we returned, we took naps, and when we woke up we decided to just stay in for our first "Netflix and Chill" night since we first departed for Europe. We joked that we were preparing for life back home in the States, but I think it was also a bit of recognition that we're a bit homesick for those times despite the really wonderful trip abroad.

      I think that we've done a great job deciding what we want and slowing down to just take the experience in when we need to do that. I'm grateful that we've been able to experience this together.

      Sweet dreams from Kinsale.
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    • Day 74

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 9

      June 26, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Seven years ago today the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in favor of same-sex marriage. While Jim C and I had already been granted that right by a vote of the people on Washington state nearly three years earlier, it was a momentous day for those who lived in the "have-not" states as well as other federal rights granted to us by the narrow ruling. It's not lost on us that too many women, particularly those without resources will likely suffer in the "have not" states.

      My reflection of Limerick today as we walked around the city is that there were several examples of the labor movement to help give rights and voice to the people, and in this case to the fight for Ireland's independence. It was a good reminder that it's not enough to just be angry, but to channel that anger into action for the common good, and to hold our governmental institutions accountable when they fail to remember that it's their purpose as well. Seeking support in polite ways does not persuade oppressors.

      I wanted to visit Limerick because it is the city where my maternal grandfather's family came from. His parents were married here and his oldest brother was born here before the family moved to rural New York. I'm named for him. I have not approached my genealogical research about his family with the same zeal in finding my grandmother's roots because my grandfather was a horrible human being. I've been curious about his lineage, and I have many questions about the family who created such an abysmal soul. I suspect those questions will remain unanswered, and I choose to emulate the light of his wife, my grandmother instead.

      Limerick is a gritty city. You can sense its industrial past and its effort to recast itself. One can see more evidence of poverty and struggle, and I admire the city for its past and aspirations for a better future.

      We began our day with a massive Irish breakfast while we watched the weather change about every five minutes from drizzle to sun to downpours. Next to us a young family was introducing their toddler son to the joys of Nutella, and while we watched him wear more that he managed to eat, we smiled as we recalled recent photos of Olive's wearing much of a recent Nutella treat as well.

      We walked by the now closed Frank McCourt museum, the author of "Angela's Ashes" a very tough autobiography of a difficult life. The museum was in sn old schoolhouse created by bequeathed funds from a wealthy man who wanted to help the poor. It's a poweful story of a wealthy person helping those less fortunate.

      We decided to take advantage of a break in the weather and we wandered to People's Park. The park was opened in the late 1800's by a wealthy businessman who wanted to create a planned space for the populace. I was moved by a monument dedicated to parents who had lost young children. I loved the efforts of artists to create beautiful wood sculptures of trees uprooted by a severe windstorm. And I loved children's chalk drawings by of a rainbow heart on a park bench, a love offering by the innocents.

      Like many Americans, I'm angry about living in a country that has lost its soul. Limerick's lesson for me today reminded me of the power of love, the power of the labor movement and organizing, the power of creation, and the beauty of youth. I'm grateful for the reminder.
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    • Day 76

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 11

      June 28, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      We woke up to very welcome glimpses of sunny skies and a rainbow overlooking the multi-hued bay from our room in Castlegregory. After a hearty breakfast, and an amiable conversation about unions and politics back home with our gracious hosts, we hit the road.

      I had discovered an app outlining many points of interest along the Wild Atlantic Way. We decided to select some spots before heading back to our Limerick Hotel.

      We drove by the 1800 Blennerville Windmill, just outside of the town of Tralee, which reminded us of sites in Holland. Although the visitor center was closed, we did get a look at the windmill that still grinds grain today.

      We stopped next at the Ardfert Cathedral ruins dating back from the 12th century. Like many of our visits to church ruins, I find the adjacent cemeteries to be fascinating due to evidence of ancient gravesites mixed with markers of those who have passed in more recent times.

      For our next stop, we decided to check out the Bromore Cliff outside the village of Ballybunion.
      The site is now privately owned and required an honor system donation of 5€. The walk along the freshly mown grass path divided by a wire fence revealed spectacular 60 meter cliffs and waterfalls. The wind was quite strong giving Wyoming's wind a "Hold my beer" competition. At times, I could barely maintain my footing or hold onto my phone to take photos. There were several informational signs along the way. One pointed out that the waterfalls had nearly a reverse flow on windy days. Sure enough, I was able to catch photos and videos of the spray of the waterfall being blown back up the cliff. In the center of the walk was a small structure identified as a WWII lookout space. I imagined how lonely that task might be.

      As we made our way back to the car, a truck drove up, and it became apparent that this elderly farmer checked to see if we had paid admission. After ostensibly seeing that we did, he asked if we wanted a receipt and he offered a nearly toothless grin and he wanted to make sure that we had enjoyed our visit.

      Given that the sunny weather seemed to be holding steady and exceeding expectations of the forecast we decided to alter our destination and head toward the famed Cliffs of Moher. To get there, we opted to take the Tarbert-Kilrush Ferry across the Shannon River. It was a fun experience, and it reminded me of the small ferry that my parents would take us on across the Connecticut River when I was quite young. The wind remained quite blustery and the waves of the river crashed over the ferry platform several times.

      Kilrush is home to the Victorian Vandeleur walled gardens. We decided to explore the gardens and get a light lunch. We enjoyed the walk in the garden and getting a bit lost in the shrubbery maze. I immediately started singing "English Country Garden" that I pulled from some long lost brain cell of my youth. Jim C had never heard of it, and I played a clip of it for him.
      We enjoyed our lunch and watched children's shrieks of excitement at the ice cream stand.

      Our last stop of the day was the Cliffs of Moher. I had often seen photos of this site, and I do have to admit that it was one of my favorite vistas of the whole trip. The views really are breathtaking, and we were pleasantly surprised that the wind wasn't bad and the sun remained.

      It took us about an hour to return to Limerick. We enjoyed a great meal at a local Asian fusion restaurant, and we joined a local online acquaintance for several pints of Guinness at Gleeson's White House, the oldest pub in Limerick. We had a great conversation with him, sharing favorite music artists and life stories. As the locals say, it was a "grand" way to cap an eventful day.
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    • Day 16

      Verschiedene Streckenabschnitte

      April 18 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Im rauf und runter, mal mehr mal weniger steil, mal schön zweispurig bis eng 2m50. Mit 2m30 Breite schaffen wir das 😅. Die Landschaft ist hügelig, steinig dann wieder riesige Flächen mit Schafen und wilden Hasen. Einfach sehr sehr schön 😍Read more

    • Day 5

      Day 4 Cork & Blarney Castle/Stone

      April 18 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

      Left Waterford for Killarney today. Stop overlooking Celtic Sea at Cork. 40 Shades of Green , I’ve never heard the Johnny Cash song 🎶 but it is at least 40.
      Happy 82nd Birthday Dick with coffee in bed, the Pillory, kissing the Blarney Stone, and Scone & Coffee in a horse stable. Tonight a local lamb dinner.Read more

    • Day 5

      Killarney & Muckross Farms

      April 18 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      Headed from East Ireland to West, now on the Atlantic side. This evening we were taken to a farm which does things pre-electric from the 1930’s. We saw the hand driven, or donkey/draft horse driven machines, butter making, peat bricks, thatched roofs. Then served a traditional dinner with bread and lamb stew. Music provided by Sheila and Biddy, with song and instrument.
      Happy Birthday was song by all to Dick and another girl by the name of April.
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    • Day 6

      Morning at Ring of Kerry

      April 19 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

      Driving tour around Ring of Kerry Iveragh Peninsula the center peninsula,between Dingle and Barea. Today is perfect slightly cloudy, now sunny day.
      Saw Skellig Micheal Island where movies have been filmed as well as many on Ring of Kerry itself.
      At the southern point of the R of K, the Statue of Liberty sits due west across the Atlantic Ocean.
      Past some ruins of towns / homes abandoned during the potato famine starting in 1845.
      I missed the Leprechaun 🍀 at the crossing.
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    • Day 18

      Dingle

      April 20 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Dingle ist eine kleine Hafenstadt auf der gleichnamigen Halbinsel im Südwesten Irlands. Die Gegend ist bekannt für ihre raue Landschaft mit Wanderwegen und Sandstränden. Am Hafenbecken steht eine Statue zu Ehren des Delfins Fungie, der seit Jahren ein häufiger Gast im Hafen war, bis 2020.Read more

    • Day 18

      Slea Head Drive

      April 20 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Auf dem absolut traumhaften Streckenabschnitt, Slea Head Drive, fahren wir bis zu unserem Schlafplatz mit fantastischem Meerblick. Es ist Samstag und viele Irländer genießen das schöne Wetter auch am Meer.Read more

    • Day 11

      Day 11 - Motorcycling Ecstacy

      August 11, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      It was a little treat to watch Match of the Day in bed this morning with it still raining outside. I was having such a lovely time that I made Jackie a cup of coffee only for her to tip it over & spill half of it on the bedside table & carpet. We decided to give breakfast a miss because we didn’t feel we couldn’t do €12 each justice.

      It was not long after 10am that we finally donned out motorcycle gear again & left the comfort of our hotel. Luckily for us the rain had now stopped & it was a cool overcast day, perfect for motorcycling.

      As we were saddling up, visitors were already arriving at the hotel, Kells House & Gardens. We drove back down the long fern lined driveway, then headed to Kells beach for a quick look. One hardy family were on the beach building sandcastles, they weren’t going to let the weather stop them having a beach holiday!

      We then rejoined the Ring of Kerry where we had turned off the previous evening. We continued clockwise through Dooks, Glenbeigh, then took the first right turn after crossing Caragh Bridge, on the recommendation of Chris.

      The road soon became a single track road with next to no cars on it, more walkers, cyclists & the odd motorcyclists. The road took us alongside the spectacular Lough Carag, occasionally stopping for a photo, but it’s such a faff.

      To take a photo, I have to pull over, take my gloves off, dig my camera out of my pocket & take the photo whilst trying to balance the bike upright with Jackie wobbling on the back. If I want to get off the bike, then Jackie has to get off the bike first, usually with a sigh. As a result, most of the picturesque views have to be committed to our memory instead of to an SD card!

      We crossed the raging River Caragh at Blackstones Bridge, then climbed up into the mountains, passing through the stunning Ballaghbeama Gap. After an hour or so of tricky, but exhilarating riding, we reached the R568 & raced up to Molls Gap to rejoin the Ring of Kerry.

      We popped into the cafe at Molls Gap, but nothing too our fancy, so we had a wee & left. We now followed the Ring of Kerry anti-clockwise down the mountain with all the other tourists towards Killarney. We stopped at Ladies View for a scenic vista over Upper Lake. We even treated ourselves to a proper photo be getting of the bike to admire the views.

      We continued on in a procession down the mountain, through Killarney National Park, past Muckross Lake & towards the outskirts of Killarney with it’s massive hotels. We stopped at a petrol station for fuel & discovered it had a very tempting cafe, which prompted us to stay for brunch.

      The staff couldn’t have been nicer & more helpful. We had ham & egg salad rolls, scone, doughnut & coffees, all for a bargain price! After we cruised through, well stop / started through Killarney town centre, which was easy on the eye, but very touristy & way too busy. We didn’t stop other than to use an ATM.

      We then embarked on an approximate 2 hour ride across country to our new Cottage for Week 2 of our trip. We picked up the N72 & were able to ride at a decent pace on the relatively flat roads. The occasional hefty bump gave me a reminder to stay vigilant.

      We rode through Barraduff, Rathmore & Banteer to Mallow, nicknamed the “Crossroads of Munster”. We had a cruise around Mallow, primarily because I took a wrong turning, then picked up the N72 again. We continued through Killavullen, Ballyhooly to Fermoy.

      Fermoy was a very attractive, but less touristy, looking town with a an impressive bridge crossing the wide River Blackwater to the main street of Courthouse Road. Whilst in Fermoy, we stopped & took an ‘on bike’ photo of the Cistercian Monks statue.

      As a point of interest, during the War of Independence, Fermoy was the scene of the first attack for arms by the IRA against British troops, during which a Private Jones was killed. This resulted in several reprisals, including when British troops looted and burned part of the town centre. One of those who led the raid, IRA Commandant Michael Fitzgerald, was subsequently captured but never tried for the offence. He later became the first IRA man to die on hunger strike during the War of Independence.

      We continued eastwards to Tallow Bridge, where Chris had told me that the cottage was just a short distance further on. Unfortunately my SatNav told me to continue around the hairpin bend & that we were still 30 minutes away. Stupidly, I followed the SatNav until we got up the road to Lismore. We pulled over & used google which took us another route & just 6 minutes later we pulled up at Bride Valley Fruit Farm, the farmhouse of which is our cottage.

      Bride Valley Fruit Farm is still a working farm with cattle, sheep & Bramley cooking apples that are bought by Bulmers for their cider. The farmhouse has marvellous views across Bride Valley & the River Bride running through it.

      After emptying the panniers, Chris & I retreated to the kitchen to watch the Man Utd v Chelsea game on the iPad with a cold beer. When I thought the day couldn’t have got any better, Man Utd’s youngsters thrashed Chelsea 4-0. Nothing better than to see that smug self-satisfied look wiped off Frank Lampard’s face!

      As soon as the football finished, Angela served up a delicious Chicken Pasta Bake with garlic bread & salad with a drop of red. After dinner, we cleared away & got ready to play a game of Cribbage. I dealt out the first hand, but before we could play we had an unexpected pitch invasion, in the form of the farmer, Willie McDonnell.

      Willie walked straight in, sat himself down at our table & picked up the dealt cards. He then proceeded to tell us that he used to play ‘45’ & started selecting random cards that were apparently bonus cards. Willie was a lovely old man, who certainly had the the gift of the gab. No doubt he had kissed the Blarney Stone!

      Willie stayed for 30-45 minutes telling us all sorts of stories about his life on the farm & the people & history of the area. It was fascinating & amusing stuff. We ascertained from him that we were allowed to fish in the river for brown trout, but not salmon. Willie also told us that 10 years ago he bought a donkey for €1000 for his cottages guests as well as investing in the luxury of internet. He couldn’t have been more different to Mr Hegarty.

      We played Cribbage & Logo ( note: where Jackie was the victor over an out of form Simon) & finally went to bed at the unearthly hour of 11.30pm.

      It had been a top top day.

      Song of the Day - The High Road by Broken Bells
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Munster, An Mhumhain, مونستر, Манстэр, Мънстър, Cúige Mumhan, مونستەر, Манстер, Munsteri provints, Còigeamh Mumhan, Queiggey Mooan, מנסטר, マンスター, მანსტერი, Мунстер, 먼스터, Momonia, Mansteris, Munster Séng, Momonîn, منستر, Munsteri, مونسٹر, 芒斯特省

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