Italy
Sulmona

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    • Day 228

      Sulmona & Pacentro

      November 19, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      Ich will den verregneten Tag heute nicht ungenutzt lassen und versuche die halbwegs trockenen Regenpausen abzupassen, um zwei weitere Ortschaften zu besuchen.
      Kurz nachdem ich meinen Stellplatz verlassen habe, passiere ich einen kleinen Stausee, der ein wunderschönes Farbspiel aus seinem intensiven Blau und den Rot- und Gelbtönen des Herbstlaubes an seinem Ufer zeigt.
      Wenig später erreiche ich die Kleinstadt Sulmona und finde heraus, dass hier die Herstellung von gezuckerten Mandeln, dem sogenannten Confetti, eine lange Tradition hat und dieser sogar zu kunstvollen Blumen arrangiert werden.
      Durch ihre Lage im Tal wird die Stadt von hohen Bergen umringt und vor deren wolkenverhangenen, dunklen Hänge zeichnen sich die hellen Fassaden der schönen Innenstadt sehr deutlich ab.
      Nur ein paar Kilometer entfernt, aber etwas höher gelegen, erreiche ich das malerische Dorf Pacentro. Trotz des schlechten Wetters, schafft der helle Naturstein auf dem Boden und an den Fassaden auch hier einen freundlichen Eindruck zu vermitteln.
      Auf einem Aussichtspunkt kann ich zwar die Schönheit der umliegenden Berglandschaft unter den Wolken nur erahnen, aber zumindest für einen kurzen Augenblick bricht die Sonne durch und taucht die Szene in ein glanzvolles Licht.
      Ein Stück weiter im Norden finde ich am Ufer des kleinen Flusses Tirino endlich wieder mal einen idyllischen Stellplatz mitten in der Natur.
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    • Day 105

      Tag 67

      July 11, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Die gute Nachricht vorab. Hatte heute keine einzige zecke und das nicht weil ich DEET exzessiv aufgetragen hab, es gab einfach keine. Den Eindruck hatte ich aber auch schon so von der Strecke. Es war heiß und trocken. Zecken mögen es nicht so sehr trocken.

      Morgens vom Berg runter kommen und in Erwartung auf Kaffee und Croissant der Stadt entgegenlaufen, das ist ein ganz besonderes Gefühl. Leider hatten alle fünf Cafés geschlossen. Bin dann eigentlich zur nördlichen Seite des Dorfes raus, hab aber den falschen Pfeilen auf der Straße Folge geleistet und bin wieder auf der Hauptstraße gelandet die südlich hinaus führt. Dort gabs dann aber ne Tankstelle und dort waren alle Männer versammelt. Guter Kaffee gutes Croissant, Handy geladen.

      Nun ging’s bergab und es wurde immer wärmer. Im Tal angekommen hab ich auch bald schon die erste Möglichkeit zum Baden wahrgenommen. Dann ging es einmal an der Seite des Tals entlang bis nach Popoli. Dort dann ein kurzer Einkauf weil ich auf dem nächsten Berg campen wollte. Leider gab es da keine gerade stelle und irgendwie war’s auch noch zu früh. Also bin ich auch noch durch den nächsten Ort und habe dort nochmal ein wenig eingekauft. Ne Flasche Bier 😄

      Die Flasche hab ich dann noch ne Stunde mit durch die Büsche geschleppt, weil ich auch hier Schwierigkeiten hatte nen Platz zum Campen zu finden. Hat dann aber geklappt. War fix und fertig nach sehr vielen km und Höhenmetern und dann noch der Flasche Bier.
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    • Day 63

      Travel Day 1 back to Como

      May 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      We woke up on our last morning in Amsterdam and rode bikes to very local bakery famous for their Apple pie. We got a coffee and a piece of pie to share. Then we walked around the street market. We brought stroopwaffles and chocolate croissants to the kids. Then we got our bikes and went to St Nicholas Basicilla. The Catholic Church. It was really pretty. They were about to have mass so we had to be very quiet. The church had beautiful frescos of the stations of the cross. My favorite was the last supper image.   The kids wanted to go to Riplys believe it or not. We let them go explore the museum and we sat in the square and waited for them. After they were finished we went to lunch at the Irish pub. It’s close to the hotel and has something for everyone. We got all packed for the airport and took an Uber. Our flight was delayed again. Once we landed in Naples we rearranged the car and started driving to a small town in the Abruzzo region called Sulmona. We stopped for dinner at Trattoria Pepe. It was outside of Naples in Casserta. There is a beautiful palace in that town that I wanted to go see but unfortunately it didn’t fit into the timeline. The plan was to go to a town called Bucchianico tomorrow. I had done some research several years ago about my great grandfather and identified that he may from that town. At the very very last minute I logged into my ancestry.com account that I had set up years ago and found I had all these new “connections”. Ancestry connected me with 3 family trees from other people who have my great grandfathers name on their tree. It also had quite a few new sources / documents to help me determine what information is correct. I can see his draft card, marriage record, citizenship record and several census records. Those I can agree are all correct. I’ve hit a wall with the passenger manifests and what city he arrived into. That’s where the spelling of his name gets changed or not? I cannot determine on my own. I need to show my family this information and see what they can help confirm or deny. So ultimately we are going to alter our course and continue driving north. I want to get this part of my family history researched so when we come on our next trip we have a true Sandone family history.
      *We are going to take a few days to drive back to Como. We are going to call each day a “travel day”.
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    • Day 75

      Refugio Jaccio della Madonna

      June 4, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      15:00 - we've reached the Refugio/bivacco.
      The weather is still fine, even the forecast is different. I've met only ones sportive hier today in the village. Everybody else used the car, motorbike and some the race bicycle.
      The trail was mostly fine but tiring at the end. Luckily the refugio was open. Not locked. But unfortunately we have no water with us. There was really nothing on the way.
      So i will try to connect the rain water. Normally it should rain the whole night.
      Lupo was hiking good today, but wanted to do earlier. Now he has a lot of time to rest .
      We don't walk into the next Refugio. It's only 200+hm and 5km. But this is open and probably the view tomorrow morning is better. Now it is cloudy.

      50.000 steps - 36.3km
      2180 D+ / 1640 D-
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    • Day 6

      Sulmona

      July 31, 2021 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Am Rand des Majella-Nationalparks liegt die Stadt Sulmona mit ihren knapp 25.000 Einwohnern. Sie liegt in einem weiten Tal mitten in den Abruzzen und ist von den höchsten Bergen der Apeninnenkette umgeben.Read more

    • Day 54

      Abruzzi NP with friends

      May 24, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Time with friends
      Kat and (Italian husband) Fabio have travelled over from the UK and we’ve arranged to meet in Abruzzo with their children (and about 30 of their family members on their annual family reunion!) where they both used to live (Fabio is from Sulmona).

      We arrive a little earlier than planned so gatecrash their Friday night family meal at one of their favourite local pizzerias. We get our first taste of truffles (which Coen LOVES!) and some other delicious pasta, and a medicinal shot of some italian liquor (to help the anklle pain!). Add some rain and I’m now hobbling around the slippery cobbles in flip flops (my trainers wouldn’t fit comfortably).

      As the hotel they are staying at belongs to their friend, they’ve let us stay in the car park for the weekend.

      The children are so excited to be in the company of so many other English children for a whole weekend!

      Kat has arranged a full itinerary for her family and we are invited to join in while we are there. We head back to the centre of Sulmona in the morning for market day, have a drink in their favourite ‘pub’ (which we would not have even noticed was there without them), and the children all enjoyed ice cream (#1) in the sun.

      We then head out to Kats favourite restaurant for a pre-arranged meal (we are loving not having to think about where we’re going, what we’re eating, and how to get there - as we manage to squeeze into their convoy of cars with children on our laps!). We would DEFINITELY never have found this place on our own, I’m not even sure I know where it was, but it was a beautiful place set amongst the hills, surrounded by poppy fields with a grand back drop of mountains. The food starts to arrive, and we get more truffle pasta and some other delicious local dishes, including a speciality pink trout.

      Next up we visit an old castle set on top of the hillsides with beautiful views all around, and the children have a giant game of hide and seek inside the castle walls and we relax/hobble up to the top to see how far we can see.

      We then have to split as the convoy of cars are going in two directions and there is not enough space for all of us to go in one direction!! So Nic and Coen head back to the hotel to explore the grounds, find the ponds and tractors, have a little rest and some food, whilst Amelia and I tag along to visit Fabio’s family. Amelia is in her absolute element when she sees their little cousin’s beautiful bedroom, and box full of dolls with shoes and everything!! The children play in the garden while we sit and relax with a drink, and then get fed more amazing Italian food prepared by Fabio’s brother. It’s so good that I have to ask if I can take a doggy bag back for Nic as I feel bad eating delicious food with him!

      The next day is the wine festival - the reason for visiting at this time of year, La Cantina. Unfortunately it is possibly Italy’s wettest day of the year so far! Still hopeful, we board the coach at 9am, flip flops on, and head out to the first stop. At this point we realise, having got on the coach so early, this is going to be early wine drinking, even by Italian standards!

      The first stop gives us a wine glass and necklace carrier to hang it in and a grand tour of the wine ‘factory’ with huge cylinders and barrels on wine in the basement as far as the eye can see. We get a glass of red and white at each stop - however, we’ve quickly realised at this first stop that the sommelier at the white wine table is not taking our tickets, so naturally we go back for a few more glasses...and now a little less sober than when we arrived, and with soaking wet children who have been rolling about in the fountains, we board the coach for the next stop.

      Another wine tour to show us how the wine is made and more wine and hog roast, this stop also has a DJ playing in a beautiful yard and we all imagine how beautiful it would be if we were stood in glorious sunshine instead of muddy puddles! Still the foods good, the wines good, the kids are happy....

      We take a vote on the bus and decide to do a slightly shorter tour due to the weather.

      We stop at two more stops, one where we get some tasty Italian food, but have to fight the crowds to get some wine, and another set on top of beautiful rolling hills, vineyards spreading below and a beautiful slate deck where the festival area sits. Unfortunately, rain, slate and flip flops aren’t a good combo, so it feels a bit like an hour of drinking wine on an ice rink to me, but the children find some big colourful blocks to have some dance offs on, and we get unlimited wine to finish the tour.

      Back to the bus, and we head back to the hotel where our children get their first bath in 7 weeks and we eat A LOT of pizza for our final night with Kat and her wonderful family.

      It’s fair to say that we all thoroughly enjoyed our weekend here, a place we would not have visited had it not been to meet friends, but also for the normal English chat we got (of course, Nic loves to talk, so definitely made the most of having no language barriers), the children to be able play so nicely with other children, and we left the hotel so thankful for the weekend’s hospitality, a break from the norm, and time with friends xx
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Sulmona, سولمونا, Сулмона, Sulmo, スルモーナ, Сульмона, 苏尔莫纳

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