• Janette and John
Jun – Jul 2022

Norfolk Island Getaway

Tuesday 28th June - drive to Melbourne - stay that night.
Wednesday 29th June - meet up with Denise and Michael and fly to Brisbane - stay that night.
Thursday 30th June - fly to Norfolk Island for 6 days.
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  • Trip start
    June 28, 2022

    On our way.

    June 28, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Left at 1.30ish. Said goodbye to the cows and headed off. We've rolled out lots of hay so they'll be OK for a few days. A couple of neighbours will keep an eye on them while we're away. Kevin next door will give them a roll of hay Monday and Wednesday.
    We had the car booked in at Andrews Parking and had said we'd be there about 4pm.
    Got there at 4.15ish - the traffic down in Donnybrook / Tullamarine is unbelievable!
    After checking in to the hotel, we walked across to the airport to suss out where to go tomorrow morning. We printed our boarding passes at home and with them we can print our luggage tags by scanning the passes. These get attached to our cases and we send them off 'down the conveyer belt' - hopefully to be seen again…
    Back across to the hotel and an early dinner in their restaurant.
    Tomorrow - second leg - fly to Brisbane.
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  • Melbourne, Brisbane, Norfolk Island.

    June 30, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Wednesday was really just travelling to Brisbane. We met Denise and Michael at Tullamarine Airport at about 9.00am. We were to fly out at 11.30 but the plane was late arriving. We left at 12.15. On arrival at Brisbane airport, we walked the 450 metres to our digs at the Ibis Hotel.
    Thursday - we flew to Norfolk Island. The flight left at 7.30am. This meant rising at 4.00am. and catching the shuttle-bus to the airport at 5.00am.
    Even though Norfolk Island is Australian territory, travel is through the international terminal and passports are required.
    We were met at the airport and shuttle bussed to Governors' Lodge Resort. It comprises 55, one bedroom cottages with kitchen / lounge and bathroom. The name derives from the roads in the resort being named after previous governors. Our address is 7 Darling Crescent - DC7.
    After a toastie and a cuppa, we organised wifi coverage. Denise and Michael went for a walk and Janette and I took the car into Burnt Pine. First stop, the Norfolk Island Telecom shop to buy a sim card followed by a wander around the shops.
    D & M walked some more. J & J explored some of the island by car although we have an orientation tour in the shuttle bus tomorrow morning at 8.30am.
    There are cattle and chooks everywhere along the roadsides - animals have right of way!
    Met in the evening for a lovely dinner at Bailey's, a restaurant in the resort.
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  • Norfolk History - orientation tour.

    July 1, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After a hearty breakfast, we boarded the mini bus at 8.30 for an orientation tour of the island with driver Max.
    As he drove, he gave a potted history of Norfolk Island settlement.
    First, north to Cascade Bay. There is a pier here: it is one of the two piers where supply ships can be unloaded to resupply the island. The other pier is on the south coast at Slaughter Bay, Kingston (slaughter meant swamp).
    There is nowhere for ships to dock here. On approach to N I, the weather conditions dictate which pier is to be used. The supply ship waits offshore and everything is unloaded into barges to be ferried to the pier and unloaded again. It takes two to three days to unload.
    We then headed for Kingston.
    Kingston was the original settlement site on the island and still has some amazing old buildings including the Governor's House where the current administrator resides.
    We continued on the tour with commentary and had a lovely cream tea at Orn Daa Cliff - a farm house on the western side of the island with lovely views and and set up to cater for functions - eg. Sunset fish dinners and with local girls performing Tahitian dances.
    Just nearby was the lovely St Barnabus Anglican church with its interesting construction. The pews face inwards to the aisle rather than across the church. For this reason, it is a popular place for couples to marry.
    There is a memorial garden next to the church. It contains gravestones moved from a Melanesian mission. Next to that again is a huge, old Sri Lankan fig tree.
    We took note of places and things we would like to do…
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  • From tourist to convict.

    July 1, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After being delivered back to our digs, we headed into town (Burnt Pine). The cattle here just free range around the roads. They are all owned and have ear-tags. The owners know where their cattle are likely to be as they are 'territorial'. Like our cattle, they are 'hefted' to their territory and know where they belong.
    Many driveways have cattle grids to stop the cattle 'visiting'. The same applies to the town: there are cattle grids and pedestrian gates on every approach to town.
    We booked the Convict Dinner for tonight and the Progressive Dinner for Monday night. The Convict Dinner is held in the hotel across the road from us and requires us to dress in the convict outfits supplied to us when we booked. The Progressive Dinner will be entree, dinner and dessert with three different local families.
    After a light lunch at the little cafe near the airport we went for a drive around the island. Max, our driver from this morning, had pointed out a few things, one of which was the turnoff to the lookout on Mt Pitt, so that was the first stop.
    As he promised, there are excellent views of the island.
    Down in Kingston we visited the Pier Store Museum which had a really informative time line of Norfolk Island’s history and also many artefacts found by members of the first fleet. These were an indication of Polynesian presence prior to Cook’s discovery.
    A little further along the coast is the cemetery. The far end has the oldest graves and as you approach that section, the old, original gateposts to the cemetery are still there. There are names that feature frequently - Quintal, Adams, Christian, Evans, Buffett… Many people drowned and there are many, many children and infants buried there.
    Back to the hotel to don our convict outfits and venture across the road for a lovely old fashioned meal and an evening of hilarity and fun. We had to be there by 6.00pm under threat of a flogging if we were late.
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  • Mary and Sarah Lucas.

    July 1, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The main reason Denise and Michael wanted to visit Norfolk Island was to locate the burial place of Mary and Sarah Lucas.
    They were the twin daughters of Michael's three times great grandparents, Nathaniel Lucas and Olivia Gascoinge.
    They are buried at Emily Bay, Kingston.
    Michael located the plaque marking the grave site. To our surprise, there were still quite fresh flowers at each side of the plaque.
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  • Wahoo Saturday.

    July 2, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Woke to the sound of birds again.
    After breakfast we drove into town to get back the deposits on our convict outfits from last night. A roadside sign yesterday said there would be a farmers market this morning. When we got there we couldn't see any sign of a market. Perhaps there hadn't been much enthusiasm by participants.
    Had another exploratory drive. On our orientation tour we had passed four massive morton bay figs outside 'The Homestead Restaurant' . We drove there with a view to booking into the restaurant. Unfortunately it was closed due to staff having covid, but we had a good look at the trees. They really are massive.
    We headed back to town to the bookshop as Denise is looking for a particular book. The shop owner said she will make enquiries re it's availability.
    Had a coffee near the shoe and book shops. Burnt Pine is a bit like Melbourne was once: most places close at midday on Saturdays.
    There is a bar in town which has a lawn area out the front. A sign says live music 3 - 6 every Sunday. We had been advised to book a table if we were going and wanted a seat. We went and booked and asked about the possibility of dinner as well. It seems they may do a laksa but they may not. This is typical of the laidback attitude we're seeing here.
    The Bounty Bar and Grill is highly recommended so we went to book for dinner tonight. It was fully booked but she said if we were happy to arrive at 5.30, she would fit us in - very early but we booked.
    Lunched at the Olive Shop then back 'home'. I wrote some of the blog. Janette caught up on the washing. Denise and Michael took the car and went 'bush' for a walk.
    5.30 and we duly arrived at the Bounty. We were greeted with much enthusiasm as there was a very special, special on the menu tonight. A Wahoo had been caught! Only six or seven a year are caught and when one is caught, the whole island knows about it. This restaurant bought it. We all said that we would have that.

    Wahoo (Acanthocybium solandri) is a scombrid fish found worldwide in tropical and subtropical seas. It is best known to sports fishermen, as its speed and high-quality flesh makes it a prized and valued game fish.
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  • Market, memorial and music.

    July 3, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    First up today, the Sunday morning market in town. Because it looked like it would rain, the stalls were back under the building verandahs. The goods were mostly souvenir items. We bought a 2023 calendar and a N I recipe book. Denise purchased some locally made "knitting Nancy's" for the grandchildren.
    Michael had checked the map and pointed out there were some roads we still hadn't explored.
    We headed for Puppy's Point on the west coast. This spot has several nice picnic spots and is a highly recommended sunset viewing spot. We might not get to verify that as the main ingredient for that - the Sun -is missing at the moment due to the overcast conditions. Nevertheless, it's worth a visit anytime for the views.
    Next destination was the north coast and Captain Cook's Memorial. More amazing views - even higher cliffs and even more exposed and windy.
    Back to town and a visit to Cyclorama.

    “Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama is about as close as you can get to watching Norfolk Island’s history unfold without whipping out a time machine. Creating a cyclorama to explain this part of our history was the idea of Marie Bailey, a descendant of Fletcher Christian.
    Measuring 3.6 metres in height and 50 metres in circumference, this 360° painting puts you at the centre of our story, with scenes depicting the voyage and mutiny on the Bounty and the settlement of the island.
    Standing in the middle of the panoramic masterpiece – with music, sound, props and 3D illusions enhancing the effect – it’s not hard to imagine yourself in the thick of the action. Listen carefully to the cyclorama soundtrack and you’ll hear snippets of Norf’k, a language still spoken by islanders to this day”

    https://www.norfolkcyclorama.com/

    1.00pm - it looked like the Olive Shop was the only place open in town, so we lunched there again.
    We had decided to check out 'The Local'. They have live music from 3.00pm every Sunday. The entertainers were really good. If you weren't looking, one could have been Johnny Cash. We stayed till about 4.30. It was quite windy and cool and we had arranged to meet Kyle at 5.30 for drinks. We were to meet at the Boatshed, one of the restaurants at the resort.
    We had the drink with Kyle (a colleague of Candice and a resident of N I) and then decided we would dine there together. It was a very pleasant evening and we were able to pick Kyle's brains about N I.
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  • Kingston - the original N I settlement.

    July 4, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We had bought a museum pass which gave us access to all museums and to some guided tours. This morning's tour meant meeting at the Royal Engineers Office at 9.30am. There we met our guide, Allan, who was waiting for any interested parties to join him.
    First stop was the Commissariat Store on Quality Row. It was built to store and dispense the Penal Colony's supplies and equipment. It replaced an earlier building, closer to the water, which had been hit by a tsunami. This one is on higher ground. It only took 7 months to build. They did, after all, have hundreds of convicts to do the work.
    Inside, it contains a multitude of stories and relics relating to Kingston's settlement.
    The Rev. Brice took photographs c1867 which form a panoramic view of Kingston. It shows what Kingston looked like from the houses higher up on Quality Row. The far left of the panorama shows the very faint image of a windmill. In a mill near the pier, the cogs were turned by chain gang convicts turning a large crank handle. There was also a water mill driven by water from a manmade pond.
    Further along Quality Row, we visited a house set up as it probably once was when the Colonisers first lived in them. There were first, second and third class residences which were allocated dependent on the person's class or rank. The one we saw was a second class house.
    Vegetables and pigs were probably grown in the surrounding area. There are some old stone huts in a couple of paddocks. We speculate the these might well have been shepherds' huts.
    Suddenly it was close to lunch time. Janette had ordered a book yesterday, so we went to pick that up. This was also an opportunity to look at the shoe shops again!
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  • Queen Victoria's Garden.

    July 4, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Our address here is Queen Elizabeth Avenue. Just across and down a bit from our digs is the Queen Victoria Garden in the grounds of Cyclorama. Probably because Queen Victoria gave N I to the Pitcairners, the locals are very royalist. There are Union Jacks and posters wishing QEII a happy jubilee on the garden fence and in some shop windows.
    After lunch, Denise and Michael went for a walk: they're fitter than we are.
    Janette and I went for a stroll in the Queen Victoria Garden.
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  • Progressive dinner.

    July 4, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Tonight we dined at three local houses on a progressive dinner.
    We were picked up at reception and climbed into a mini bus. Two mini buses collected 44 of us in total from several locations. Our driver was John Christian.
    First stop, Duncan and Terri's. A choice of sherry or juice accompanied by finger food on their verandah. Then, after going inside, Duncan told us their story. They've been on N I for forty years.
    Main course was at Sam and Tracy's. All 44 of us were accommodated at dining tables in their living room. A delicious roast was served to the tables. Sam then told us his story: his mother was a 'Christian'.
    For desert, we headed to Alison Christian's. What a comedian!
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  • Colleen McCullough's house

    July 5, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning: a tour of Colleen McCullough's house.
    Met our driver / guide, Brook, at reception and headed for Colleen's house. En route we were treated to a rundown of Col's life (Brook knew Colleen and is friendly with her husband, Rick, and calls her Col). Col had originally wanted to study medicine and started study. Unfortunately, she proved to be allergic to the antiseptic used for hand cleaning. It affected the skin on her hands. Instead she went into medical research.
    Half way to the house Brook waved to a driver going into town. It was Rick. Whenever there is a house tour, Rick goes into town to be out of the way.
    Brook then discussed all her books in quite some detail. As we arrived he pointed out that next to his seat was a full list of Col's work. None of us had realised how just many books she had written.
    Rules for the house visit:-
    * the tour will be of the ground floor only - Rick lives upstairs
    * no photos inside
    * no touching anything
    * leave shoulder bags / cameras with shoulder strap on the bus - a person with a shoulder bag knocked an irreplaceable object and broke it…
    * photos will be allowed in the book shop at the end of the tour.
    Col had earned rivers of money from the publishing of “The Thorn Birds” and this increased with her many books. Her home is a bit like a museum full of expensive antiques, artworks, marble and glass items. She didn’t seem to know about restraint and there were many items in triplicate or more. Her library was amazing with the reference books worth millions.
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  • Botanic Garden.

    July 5, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The Botanic Garden was our destination after lunch.
    This meant going through town and passing the favourite shoe shop. Let me rephrase that. It meant stopping at the favourite shoe shop on the way through town.
    The garden was quite a surprise with excellent boardwalks and information centre.
    On the way back we had to pass the ice cream / sweet shop.
    Let me rephrase that…
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  • Final day.

    July 6, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Last morning, so we went for the usual drive.
    Can you believe it? We found new roads and new reserves to explore.
    The biggest surprise was Bumbora Reserve at the end of Bumbora Road. Tucked away in a corner was the top of a walkway. Not just any walkway, but Woody McCoy's Walkway. It followed a little creek down to a little beach.
    There were even a couple of surfers out at the break. We were later to meet a traveller at Brisbane Airport who, like us, was transferring from international to domestic. He was carrying a surfboard. Turns out he was one of 'our' surfers.
    Michael still had one more memorial to find. His ancestors, Nathaniel Lucas and Olivia Gascoigne, arrived with Lieutenant King. The first fleet arrived in Sydney. King was sent on to settle Norfolk Island and Nathaniel and Olivia were amongst this small group.
    After finding the memorial, we drove back to town to have lunch before heading to Government House.
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  • Government House visit.

    July 6, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    On the first Wednesday of each month, Government House is open to the public from 1-3.30pm.
    Today is the first Wednesday this month.
    The visit is coordinated by volunteers. It costs $15 per person with the money going to a local good cause. This month it went to the girl guides.
    There were a lot of people wanting a sticky. We queued and were sent in, four at a time, well spaced. As we walked around, there was a volunteer stationed in each room to answer any questions.
    The house looks, and is still furnished, as it would have been long ago. It doesn't look opulent now but it probably was 'back in the day'.
    There isn't a governor these days. Instead there is an administrator who lives here. The only signs of dissent we saw on the island was with the 'fors' and the 'againsts' having an administrator rather than the Regional Council which used to run the island.
    Photography wasn't allowed inside.
    The flags were at half mast today, as they were everywhere on the island. This is done whenever anyone dies on the island, whether they are a local or a visitor, and whenever there is a funeral.
    Just up the road a bit is the scenic golf course. The club house was one of the original 'first class' houses.

    Back to digs to pack for heading home tomorrow - need to be at reception by 9.00am for shuttle to airport.
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  • Give way to cows.

    July 7, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Road rule #1 on Norfolk Island - wave to EVERY oncoming driver.
    Top speed on the island is 50kph, 40kph in Burnt Pine and 30kph past the school and in the historic precinct of Kingston.
    There are no large farms on N I, but there are lots of cattle. They graze the roadsides all over the island. They are all owned and have ear tags to show ownership.
    Cows have right of way.
    Every approach road into Burnt Pine and most driveways have cattle grids to keep the cows out.
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  • Heading home and reflections.

    July 7, 2022 on Norfolk Island ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    ⏰ 6.00 - alarm rings.

    🍳 7.30 - breakfast.

    🚗 8.30 - return hire car.

    🚌 9.00 - shuttle bus to airport.

    🛫11.30 - flew out of N I.

    ✈️ 3.15 - flew out of Brisbane.

    🛬 5.45 - landed Melbourne.

    🏡 9.45 - arrived home.

    John's reflections:-

    The history on the island is amazing and was really brought to life for us as Michael's ancestors arrived with the first fleet. Kinston is considered to be on a par with Port Arthur, Tasmania, as the most intact examples of early settlement.
    Cows graze all the roadsides and are never in a hurry.
    The island looks neat and tidy everywhere. We decided it's due to the cows keeping the grass well clipped. I saw no litter. One local suggested that anyone littering would be named and shamed.
    The locals were friendly and often approached us for a chat. The children were happy and very, very polite. They played games but we didn't see them on devices ever.
    There was no speeding that I saw. I didn't hear a horn toot or see road rage. The locals are probably used to tourists driving around not sure where they should be going.

    Janette's reflections:

    A place like no other. Initially it is the distinctive trees and the rugged coastline that make if feel different. Then you explore further into the history and culture - also unique.
    The people appear to have all the basics and are very happy. They seem to live a fairly simple and stressless life. Like everywhere, there are those who are industrious and hard working who live amazing and interesting lives.
    Kyle and Pete live and run a business on the island but use it as a base - working mainland jobs remotely and travelling - just like their friends in Australia. Best of both worlds.
    As education is generally finished on the mainland there becomes a connection for many. We met locals who travel between their base on Norfolk and their "other life" in, generally, Queensland.
    Felt so at home with the cows everywhere. Roosters and chickens were also truly free range and roamed everywhere. Because materials are expensive and hard to get, we saw lots of "barbed wire gaps" which seem to be rarely used in Australia these days. Costly to bring in gates no doubt.
    Retail and hospitality have clearly been affected by Covid lockdowns but, according to one tour guide, not as much as we might think. It was the off season and there seemed to be a lot of shut up shop moments. Whatever the signs said in regards to opening hours they had to be disregarded - open hours were to suit the owners not to comply with the signage!
    Came home with a few more Colleen McCullough books and memories of her amazing home with its writing room, extensive and expensive library, and ostentatious living and dining areas - clearly she lacked restraint and there were many valuable items. Even the amazing wallpapers were incredibly expensive. We were told she was very philanthropic to the islanders.
    There are no high rise buildings - two stories was the maximum we saw. The National Parks were very well maintained and funded and provided lovely walks down to little coves with rocky beaches.
    We had lovely meals and time to catch up and reminisce with Denise and Michael and we made memories we can all share in our dotage!

    Arriving Home:

    We arrived home around 9.45pm Thursday evening. Stopped at Wallan for a bite to eat and were sprung eating burgers at Macca’s by neighbours Andrew and Di Muller who had been to a funeral at Ballarat. Once home we were greeted by signs that a wallaby had taken up residence on the back verandah. A dozer had been unloaded near our front gate (tracks in the soft wet soil) and we are not sure what that was about. Unpacking and washing to look forward to and the gst and tax await … Fish & chips with the locals tomorrow night will have us back to normal in no time.
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    Trip end
    July 7, 2022