Bentenchō

The next 4 footprints are all about Geishas. We had a wonderful entertaining experience in our evening in Kobe (Kyoto), where Geishas originated. Geishas have endured 500 years and although they are admired by those around the world, they are mostly very misunderstood symbols of Japan. They began in the late Edo Period, of Japan and there are still many young women who are prepared to learn the culture and customs of geisha and become a part of Japanese history and tradition.

Kyoto, is the heart of Japan’s geisha world and women 15 - 20 years old train for at least 5 years to become a geisha/geiko. During this period, they are known as maiko. Other cities in Japan, like Tokyo, have a version of geisha, but they don’t undergo the strict training that defines Kyoto’s maiko and geiko. Maikos will take lessons on how to sing, dance, and play music, learn the art of conversation as well as the formal hosting skills expected of a geisha. Along with performance, maiko will also study other elements of traditional Japanese culture, including calligraphy, flower arranging, poetry, and literature. They will also attend events with established geisha to learn the correct etiquette to entertain. When a maiko has completed her apprenticeship at around 20 years old, she will become a geisha. This event is marked with a ceremony called “erikae,” meaning the “turning of the collar,” where she will finally wear the kimono and elaborate wig that denotes a geisha.

A geisha is a Japanese female performance artist, traditionally hired to entertain guests at teahouses and social events. During such events, a geisha will sing, dance, perform music, host tea ceremonies, and serve food and drinks - all while engaging in lively conversation. The meaning of “geisha” comes from two kanji characters, “gei” (芸), meaning arts or entertainment, and “sha” (者), which means person. The word translates as a “person of the arts.”

Although the number of geisha in Japan has declined since the golden age (1603-1867), there are still around 600 geisha working in Japan today. Geisha districts are known as “hanamachi,” meaning “flower town,” and were established during the 17th century. The most famous hanamachi in Japan is Gion in Kyoto, where a number of “okiya” geisha lodging houses remain (i.e.,“Ochaya Shima,” a beautiful old teahouse built in 1820 is still open).

A basic element of a geisha's appearance is the makeup, starting with white foundation called “oshiroi,” a powder mixed with water to become a paste. Before applying, a geisha puts on a layer of wax called “bintsuke abura” to help smooth her skin before oshiroi is applied with a wide brush. Next, a distinctive red lipstick, called “beni,” is added along with black eye-liner and red pigment around the eyes. Heavily defined eyebrows drawn using pigment complete the iconic look. A geisha carries out this routine every day, and getting ready often takes 1-2 hours. The only part left free of oshiroi is the back of the neck, where two or three small patches of clear skin are left uncoated. These are called “eri-ashi,” and are left to give the impression of a longer neck. Why makeup? During the 19th century, teahouses were dimly lit by candlelight, and the bright white makeup of a geisha helped illuminate their faces during the performance.

One of the many things we learned (and got to see) about the geishas was the difference between the maiko and geisha. This starts from the lipstick, maiko only apply lipstick to their bottom lip, and senior maiko paint a thin red line around both the lips. A geisha's lips will be fully painted, and they will usually wear a little less oshiroi than maiko too. Another way to tell a maiko and geisha apart is the hair. Maiko wear a number of traditional hairstyles called “nihongami,” which are styled from their own natural hair, all different styles depending on their rank, often a bun at the back of the head. Geisha wear elaborate custom wigs of real hair known as “katsura.” These are designed in the “shimada” style, where the hair is worked up into a top knot at the crown of the head adorned with a variety of hairpins and ornaments that hang from the hair, called “kanzashi.” The kanzashi worn by maiko are usually very elaborate, large, and often decorated with gold or jewels. Kanzashi worn by geisha are also decorative but usually much smaller and more refined and understated. It's also possible to tell a maiko and geisha apart by their kimono. Geisha kimono are generally muted and chic with shorter sleeves and a small obi (sash). Maiko, on the other hand, wear a type of “furisode” kimono with longer sleeves and cute, colorful designs and a bigger obi. Maiko also wear sandal-like shoes called “okobo” or “pokkuri geta” that have thicker soles, while geisha will opt for more regular “geta” or “zori” sandals.Read more