• Jessica Gerschwitz
jun. – jul. 2017

Great Africa Expedition

Una aventura de 49 días de Jessica Leer más
  • Inicio del viaje
    9 de junio de 2017

    Adelaide Airport

    9 de junio de 2017, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    It is all starting to feel real now, my bags are checked in, I have said my goodbyes, gone through customs and I am just waiting to board the plane! It will be leaving a little late 'emirates apologises for the delay' but that's okay, means less time waiting in Dubai.

    I cannot be too angry, they did give me a window seat in the exit row for a 13 hours flight with no extra charge - I cannot complain at all!

    I cannot believe that my bag one weighed 19kg, I am definitely getting better each trip haha! I am feeling a little bit of anxiety leaving my hair dryer and hair straightener at home but there's not much point lugging them around if I won't have any power!

    I have very mixed feelings about this trip, don't get me wrong I am excited and it is going to be an incredible experience but leaving a certain someone at home and with the current 'events' occurring in the world at the moment it is a little bit scary travelling overseas at this time.

    I have included a picture of the planned tour but that is subject to change at any time, I will use this page to record everything I do and see during my trip, it is mainly for me to store my memories but if you want to it is there for you to keep up to date on where I am and what I am doing.

    Now all I have to do is mentally prepare myself for this thirteen hour flight!
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  • Nairobi Airport

    10 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Another five hours spent in a plane that I will never get back! I have to admit the flight did go rather quick but our arrival definitely was not ideal - we all got jammed into a bus (like sardines) and driven to a really large shed where we walked in and I kid you not it was a sauna!

    This shed was where we would go through customs and then collect our bags, there was two lines, one for those who organised a visa prior to arrival and one for those who need to apply and pay for their visa. I jumped in the longer line of the two (pre-purchased visas) as I already had my visa but some woman moved me to the other line, it was shorter but all the people in front needed to apply for visas and no one seemed to be in a hurry. I think it was almost two hours later when I finally got through to collect my bag and then find my transfer that was organised by 'on the go tours' by this point I am tired, smelly and grumpy.

    There was about 6 others who also arrived around the same time, we all met up and walked back to the transfer bus. the bus started driving towards the accommodation and throughout the drive I think I saw my life flash before my eyes about six times - it was that crazy, it was almost as if they didn't have any road laws!
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  • Wildebeest Eco Camp

    10 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I made it alive! The drive was scary but somehow, even in that crazy traffic we made it alive to our accommodation for the night. Our accommodation is what they call 'dormitories' but in reality they are the cutest tents that have four bunk beds inside.

    First up we had what they call a 'pre-departure meeting' where we met our tour manager, driver, cook and other people on the tour. There is only one couple that is doing the complete fifty-seven day tour from Nairobi to Cape Town, the rest are doing a shortened version of our tour, there will also be several people joining us throughout the tour.

    Once we finished the pre-departure meeting it was a little bit of a rush to the showers, I smelt so bad it wasn't funny! twenty-four hours flying does that, those clothes almost need to be thrown out haha.

    It is now 7:00pm and I am showered, I have re-packed my bag and I made the mistake of laying down (it just feels so good) that I am skipping dinner and staying in bed, catching up on some much needed sleep.
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  • The Great Rift Valley

    11 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The Great Rift Valley is part of an intra-continental ridge system that runs through Kenya from north to south. It is part of the Gregory Rift, the eastern branch of the East African Rift, which starts in Tanzania to the south and continues northward into Ethiopia. It was formed on the "Kenyan Dome" a geographical upwelling created by the interactions of three major tectonics: the Arabian, Nubian, and Somalian plates.Leer más

  • Masai Mara Village

    11 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today we were welcomed into a Masai Mara Village where the men performed a welcoming dance, we were then spoken to by the son of the leader of the village who explained a few traditions to us.

    you can tell the different Masai Mara families apart by the colour they wear.
    • they do not have a hospital and use plants to treat illness'.
    • the women built the huts using cow manure, mud, water and sticks.
    • the huts need to be rebuilt every nine years because termites ruin them.
    • the men have to look after their stock and protect the village.
    • the women gather firewood and water, they feed everyone and make sure the houses are clean.
    • a man can have up to seven wife's and each wife gets their own house, majority of families have five children which means they can have up to thirty-five children!
    • the wife's do not get jealous of each other and are friends.
    • they cannot marry within their village because they are all related so the parents arrange marriages in other villages, the men will stay in their village and the females will move there.

    We then were welcomed into their homes, as you walk in there is a small room where they have calfs (to protect them from wild animals) and then a hallway to the main area where there is their kitchen which consists of a fire in the middle of the room. To the left of the kitchen is the parents room which is the size of a double bed and a room for the lambs then to the right is the children's room which is also the size of a double bed.
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  • Acacia Camp

    11 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We have finally arrived at our second camp, after driving for ten hours straight on the worst dirt roads I have ever driven on (for those who know it is worst than 'back road' between Indulkana and Mintabie) we are staying here for two nights! We were upgraded here so we didn't have to put up tents and we are staying in permanent tents that have beds inside of them. The facilities weren't so great here the showers were cold and the toilets didn't flush - I will really be looking forward to leaving here, that's for sure!
    We are going game driving tomorrow in the Masai Mara National Reserve which is pretty exciting, hopefully I get to cross off a couple of the African 'big five'.
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  • Masai Mara National Reserve

    12 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    In Africa, the big five game animals are the Lion, Elephant, Cape buffalo, Leopard and Rhinoceros. They we chosen because of the degree of danger and difficulty involved in hunting them, rather than their size.

    We drove for eight hours straight through the Masai Mara National Reserve today and it was INCREDIBLE!
    The scenery was beautiful and I was able to cross off the Lion, Elephant and Cape Buffalo off of the 'big five' as well as seeing several other amazing animals such as zebras, warthogs, wildbeest, giraffe, jackel,hartebeest (and more) but the highlight was a cheetah!

    Interesting fact that I learnt from our tour manager is that you will quite often see zebras and wildbeest together as the zebras have good eye sight and the wildbeest have great smell, working together they are able to avoid being eaten by predators. Another interesting fact is that elephants are not hunted by any other animal, majority die of old age but some die of starvation if they wear down all their teeth and are unable to eat anymore.

    It was such a big day but so worth it, I am looking forward to a lot more game drives! Hopefully I can see a leopard and rhinoceros before I finish the tour to complete the 'big five'.
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  • Naiberi River Camp

    13 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We were taken for a tour of the site by staff members and it was beautiful! It had a large pool, a bar and plenty of places to relax in the serenity! It is such a shame that we are only here for one night.

    After the tour we returned to the bus where we had to set up our tents. Today was out first day setting up the tents, I am sharing with another solo traveller (there is only three of us) and we are both competitive so when the challenge was set of who could set the tent up first we had to win and we did!

    The tents are quite large, we can easily fit two mattresses and our big bags in there with us with plenty of room to move inside. After the tents were set it was time for a beer, I tried the Tusker beer and it was great, even better was the huge bottle only cost two dollars.
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  • Kenya / Uganda Border

    14 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The Kenya and Uganda border was stress free (surprisingly), all we had to do was line up at the first counter to exit Kenya and then line up at the second counter to enter Uganda. They were able to get all of us through quickly which was nice and now have another two stamps to add to my passport collection!Leer más

  • Nalubaale Bridge

    14 de junio de 2017, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The Nalubaale bridge was built in 1954 and is located at Njeru, a suburb of Jinja on the Victoria Nile, between the source of the Nile to the south and Nalubaale Power Station to the north. This is adjacent and immediately north of where the Uganda Railways line crosses the Victoria Nile. It is located on the proposed Kampala–Jinja Expressway, approximately 82 kilometres (51 mi), by road, east of Kampala, Uganda's capital and largest city.

    The Nalubaale Bridge is one of the only two road crossings across the Victoria Nile in Uganda, the other crossing being the Karuma Bridge, approximately 285 kilometres (177 mi), by road, to the north. The road crossing at Jinja is of national and regional significance because it is part of the "Northern Corridor", a highway across east and central Africa linking the Indian Ocean at Mombasa, Kenya, to the Atlantic Ocean at Matadi, Democratic Republic of the Congo. The old bridge, commissioned in 1954, is in bad structural shape and has outlived its expected lifespan. The new bridge will carry a four-lane dual highway with pedestrian sidewalks. It will be the longest bridge in Uganda at 525 metres (1,722 ft) long.

    I put a footprint at this bridge because I found it interesting that no one was allowed to take photographs of it. The bridge is lined with police and if caught taking photographs there are serious penalties. They consider that bridge to be very important because it is the quickest way to get food and other resources in to the capital of Uganda - Kampala, if enemies were to know the structure of the bridge they would be able to bomb the bridge and cause mayhem.
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  • Red Chilli Camp

    14 de junio de 2017, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This camp is my favourite by far, it is absolutely beautiful! It has a bar inside as well as beside the pool and really nice facilities (flushing toilets and warm showers) which is a big tick! We all set our tents up, showered, had dinner and then sat at the bar talking until they closed.Leer más

  • Lake Bunyonyi Overland Camp

    15 de junio de 2017, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I thought Red Chilli Camp was the best but this one definitely takes the cake, I cannot believe how beautiful this place is and we get to spend four nights here! We have set up our tent right on the lake and have an amazing view as you can see from the photo.

    The facilities here are pretty good, three bars (one at each level which is handy when the stairs are as steep as they are, you can stop of for a beer at each level), good showers and toilets which is important if you haven't noticed I'm always commenting on them haha.

    The next few days are going to be really busy and pretty exciting, I am going to have early mornings and long days because I going to look for chipmunks tomorrow, gorillas on Saturday and then visiting Rwanda on Sunday!
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  • Kalinzu Forrest

    16 de junio de 2017, Uganda ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today we went trekking for chimpanzees in the Kalinzu Forrest, it was an early start having to get up at 4:45am to have breakfast and get on the transfer bus. It was about a three hour drive before we got to the starting point where we met our guide for the day.

    We decided while there to take advantage of a toilet stop but it turns out there was no advantage, it was a long drop toilet that hasn't been covered for a while and it smelt horrendous! I would have rather of stopped for a 'bush toilet' which meals squat!

    After that ordeal we got back into the bus and drove for a further ten minutes until we reached the Kalinzu Forrest where we would be entering. As we entered the Forrest we began walking down further, I was providing entertainment to the others as I slid onto my bum about 5 times on the way down at one point Imogen and I were laughing so much that we were almost crying - one of those 'you have to be there' moments. We could hear the calls of the chimpanzees and were following them.

    We walked about thirty minutes before we saw our first chimpanzee, which was good considering sometimes people have to walk three hours! Soon after the first sighting we saw a second chimpanzee and a black and white colobus in the tree tops. It was very difficult to get a good photo because they are so high, we continued walking for a bit when I heard a noise behind me. I looked behind me to see a chimpanzee sitting in a tree at eye level about ten meters away! I alerted the group and the chimpanzee remained there letting us take photos of him.

    About twenty minutes after that I heard noises coming from behind again, this time the noise was moving fast towards us in the tree tops and once close enough we were able to identify them as two red tail monkeys playing - they were way too quick and fast to take a photograph of!

    We then started to head back when we saw a blue monkey and it's baby in the trees above, we stayed there for a little while and watched them. After a little while it was time to walk back to the bus, the walk was all up hill and let's just say I got a bit of a sweat up.

    We got back to the bus alive and started driving back to camp, that night at dinner everyone was talking because half had gone trekking for chimpanzees and the other half went trekking for gorillas - the way the gorilla trekkers described their day I hope that we don't have to trek that far because I may possibly die!
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  • Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

    17 de junio de 2017, Uganda ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today we went trekking for gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, it was an early start having to get up at 4:45am to have breakfast and get on the transfer bus. It was about a two hour drive before we got to the starting point where we met our guide for the day.

    They provided us with a briefing and explained that there were five families in the national park, they only take a maximum of eight people to each family, each day and those people are limited to one hour with the family. They then allocated us a guide and two armed guards with AK-49 assault rifles that carried 39 rounds in the magazine. The armed guards were there to protect us from potentially aggressive animals as there are other animals living there as well, they stated that they would fire warning shots first and that shooting an animal was the last resort. In the briefing they told us that we were tracking the M family, which is one of the largest families with approximately twenty gorillas.

    What happens is professional trackers start two hours earlier, return to where the family was last seen and begin tracking the family of gorillas from there as the generally will only move approximately 1km overnight. The trackers then communicate the location of the gorillas to the guide who lead us to them. We had received the same family as the other half of our group saw yesterday so I knew we would be trekking for at least two hours.

    After the briefing we all got back into the bus and drove for another forty minutes on a dirt road and then we all piled into the back of a ute with our guide and armed guards where they drove us for another five minutes to where we would enter the national park. The first forty-five minutes of the trek was all up hill on a relatively cleared path, we continued to trek for another hour were we walked up and down hills before we reached a really dense part where we had to pretty much make our own path down to where we could see the trackers. Once down with the trackers we were briefed again on how to behave and what to do if a gorilla approaches you (crouch down and turn away) and given an opportunity to drink some water before trekking further to see them.

    We all assumed that we would have to walk about ten minutes before seeing a gorilla but they were literally five to ten meters away from where we were sitting. The first one I saw was the silver back and he was barely five meters away from me. I sat down and just watched him, I couldn't take my eyes off of him he was incredible. I then looked up to see several babies playing just above us and then the mother twenty meters away the the tree top plus a couple other family members in nearby bushes, everywhere I looked I could see gorillas surrounding me. It was just breath taking that we were able to see such an amazing creature in its natural habitat, I just sat there and appreciated how beautiful they were and how lucky I was right in that moment.

    The trek was about two and a half hours each way, it wasn't as difficult as I was expecting from talking to the other group so that was good. Don't get me wrong it was still challenging but I think once you see the gorillas it makes it all worth while. I would rank this as one of the best experiences of my life and would recommend it to everyone.
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  • Uganda / Rwanda Border

    18 de junio de 2017, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    This morning we had to get up at 5:00am again to have breakfast and to get on our transport which was driving us to and around Rwanda today. We were going to visit one of the churches involved in the genocide as well as the genocide memorial, followed by Rwanda Hotel for a buffet lunch.

    I think that today will be a very emotional day, it is important on days like today that everyone respects each other as it will effect everyone differently.
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  • Nyamata Church

    18 de junio de 2017, Ruanda ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The Rwanda Genocide began in April 1994. Many Tutsi people gathered here as churches were considered a place of safety. 10,000 people gathered here and the people locked themselves in. The church walls and doors today show how the perpetrators made holes in the walls of the church so that grenades could be thrown into the church. After this the people inside were shot or killed with machetes. The ceiling of the church shows the bullet holes and the altar cloth is still stained with blood. There were hundreds of coffins inside which have the remains of people inside, there were benches piled with clothing, letters and identification cards.

    Most of the remains have been buried but there are still a large quantity that are being cleaned by volunteers and buried. We were able to see the volunteers out the back cleaning the bones of both adults, children and infants, it just gave me a sick feeling to my stomach.

    People in the surrounding area were also killed after the massacre at the church, once killed they were ordered to be removed from the street and put into the church where they couldn't been seen. It is difficult to comprehend that 50,000 are buried here.
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  • Kigali Genocide Memorial

    18 de junio de 2017, Ruanda ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I don't think I fully understood the concept or extent of what had happened during the Kigali Genocide even after going to the memorial and being given all the information I am unable to fully comprehend. I have so many unanswered questions and I left the memorial centre feeling numb and lost for words.

    The Rwandan genocide, also known as the genocide against the Tutsi, was a genocidal mass slaughter of Tutsi in Rwanda by members of the Hutu majority government. An estimated 500,000–1,000,000 Rwandans were killed during the 100-day period from April 7 to mid-July 1994, constituting as many as 70% of the Tutsi population.

    The genocide itself, the large scale killing of Tutsi on the grounds of ethnicity, began within a few hours of Habyarimana's death. Military leaders in Gisenyi province announced the president's death, blaming the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF) and then ordered the crowd to "begin your work" and to "spare no one", including babies.

    The Hutu population, which had been prepared and armed during the preceding months and maintained the Rwandan tradition of obedience to authority, carried out the orders without question.

    It is estimated that during the first six weeks, up to 800,000 Rwandans may have been murdered, representing a rate five times higher than during the Holocaust of Nazi Germany.

    Most of the victims were killed in their own villages or in towns, often by their neighbors and fellow villagers. The militia typically murdered victims with machetes, although some army units used rifles. The Hutu gangs searched out victims hiding in churches and school buildings, and massacred them. Local officials and government-sponsored radio incited ordinary citizens to kill their neighbors, and those who refused to kill were often murdered on the spot. "Either you took part in the massacres or you were massacred yourself."

    Road blocks were set up and people were obligated to present their identification card, if they were Tutsi they were slaughtered.

    The genocidal authorities were displaying the French flag on their own vehicles but slaughtering Tutsi who came out of hiding seeking protection.

    Rape was used as a weapon, during the conflict, Hutu extremists released hundreds of patients suffering from AIDS from hospitals and formed them into "rape squads." The intent was to infect and cause a "slow, inexorable death" for their future Tutsi rape victims. Tutsi women were also targeted with the intent of destroying their reproductive capabilities. Sexual mutilation sometimes occurred after the rape and included mutilation of the vagina with machetes, knives, sharpened sticks, boiling water, and acid.

    The genocide and widespread slaughter of Rwandans ended when the Tutsi-backed and heavily armed RPF led by Paul Kagame took control of the country. An estimated 2,000,000 Rwandans, mostly Hutus, were displaced and became refugees.

    The systematic destruction of the judicial system during the genocide and civil war was a major problem. After the genocide, over one million people were potentially culpable for a role in the genocide, nearly one fifth of the population remaining after the summer of 1994. After the genocide, the RPF pursued a policy of mass arrests for the genocide, jailing over 100,000 in the two years after the genocide. The pace of arrests overwhelmed the physical capacity of the Rwandan prison system, leading to what Amnesty International deemed “cruel, inhuman, or degrading treatment.” The country’s nineteen prisons were designed to hold about eighteen thousand inmates, but at their peak in 1998 there were 100,000 people in detention facilities across the country.
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  • Jinja Nile Camp

    19 de junio de 2017, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This little resort is right on the River Nile and the views are amazing. Jess and I couldn't be bothered setting up our tent so we paid the extra $5 to be put into a door with four other girls on the trip for the two nights.

    The bunk beds were three beds high but we each had our own insect net, the beds were comfortable, there was wifi in the bar, the showers were HOT and the toilets flushed!

    I am just glad I didn't have to put up and take down the tent in the dark, I will have plenty of time for that in the up coming forty days!
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  • Adrift White Water Rafting

    20 de junio de 2017, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    I can now say I have done white water rafting on the River Nile. Let's just say, this was one of the scariest white water rafting I have done (close second to New Zealand) but not because of the large drops but because of the crossing waters.

    Our raft tipped over twice, the first time we tipped was on the second rapid and as I have come back up the boat has hit me on the head pushing me back under the water - I thought I was going to drown in the rapid. When I finally did reach the surface I was still in the middle of the rapid, luck a safety kayak with us came and pulled me out.

    After that I was a tad cautious and didn't really want to tip the raft over again so when we were given a choice of 'no flip', '50/50' or '100%' we chose 'no flip' but our instructor had other ideas and took us into the middle where we were guaranteed to flip the raft and once again we ended up in the water, at least this time I didn't get pushed under by the raft again.

    Once we had finished they provided us with beer and lots of food, they then drove us back to our accommodation where we viewed the photos and video footage. It was a good day, I am glad I did it but I think as I get older I am getting more cautious (maybe even wiser) and that is why these sorts of things are starting to scare me haha.
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  • Ziwa Bush Lodge

    21 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was a very, very long bus ride! I managed to watch two movies which were both a tad strange 'mr. right' and 'dirty beautiful'. There were lots of toilet stops today because there were a few sick people on the bus, still trying to figure out if it is dehydration or gastro from drinking too much river nile water while white water rafting!

    Once we got to the camp we had the option of upgrading from camping to a room for two nights while we're here. We were told these were one of the better upgrades so we did it and let's just say we're not regretting it either, the room is beautiful. The whole site is beautiful actually, the gardens, the outdoor pool and a bar overlooking a water hole.
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  • East Africa Mission Orphanage

    22 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    I am exhausted already and I am only two weeks in!
    It doesn't help I haven't stopped since getting here so today I decided it was time for a 'rest day' where I would hang out at the resort and visit a local orphanage called East Africa Mission Orphanage (EAMO).

    EAMO was established in 1997 by Australian couple, Ralph and May Spinks who today provide a loving home for hundreds of orphaned children including babies and teenage mothers. EAMO provide health assessments, fresh clothing, 3 nutritious meals a day, and an excellent education program all the way through to completing High School, followed by vocational training or preparation for University.

    I was given a tour of the orphanage, they have two dormitories (one for the girls and one for the boys), a large dinning area, church, library (which was donated by an Australian family), classrooms for each grade and a babies room. The orphanages is fairly self sufficient with solar panels, a poultry farm, they also grow all their own fruit, vegetables and wheat. I liked the fact that majority of the people employed here were actually orphans and grew up in the orphanage.

    First we visited the boys dorm, followed by the babies and then the girls dorm. All the children were welcoming and were curious to find out more about me, looking through my photos and asking about what home was like. They loved the pictures of my dogs and the Police car. I then walked to dinner where I sat down and had dinner with the children, they were fighting over which table I was going to sit at.

    After dinner they sung songs in Swahili and in English, then it was our turn - we had to sing songs in front of them, number one request was 'mamma mia' which we did not do any justice and then we sang nursery rhymes which they loved.

    It was now time for the children to go to bed and for us to return home. I was only there for a short period of time and everyone has their own opinion on these sorts of places but I thoroughly enjoyed it and most importantly I felt like the children enjoyed it even more.
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  • Crayfish Camp

    23 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We started a little later today because there was only a two hour drive to our next camp which is called 'Crayfish Camp'.

    We arrived here at about 10:00am, set up our tents and then booked in our optional activities. I have chosen to do the walking safari, boat ride to see hippopotamus and the Elsamere Conservation Centre.

    The facilities at this camp are fairly average, good wifi but toilets and showers let this camp down. They are too far away and not very clean.
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  • Lake Naivasha

    23 de junio de 2017, Kenia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Once we got back from our walking safari we straight away walked down to Lake Naivasha where there were boats waiting to pick us up and take us to see where the hippopotamus were resting.

    We were able to see probably about fifteen to twenty hippopotamus' just off of the shore in a large group the boat went straight to this group so that we could have a close up view of them, it was amazing (photographs do not do it justice) we continued on the boat and found a further two families.

    Once our time was up the ones that were going to the Elsamere Conservation Centre were dropped off on the bank of where the centre is located.
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