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Kevin Esler
Kevin Esler

Kevin Esler

Expatriate Australian retired software engineer En savoir plus🇺🇸Bedford
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  • Caminho Português
    Suburban sheepDoooooown, then uuuuuupSt James the Apostle4 feet wide street in SantiagoIn Santiago the ubiquitous vines3Our neighbourhood1Our neighbourhood1Leaving for the bus to Lisbon

    Santiago de Compostela

    30 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    An 8km final day, mainly up hill! We started late to avoid the drizzle and were partially successful. Our ponchos did get an outing. While short, the walk was quite hard. Final few kms through the suburbs of Santiago as we sought a glimpse of the Cathedral, then we arrived via the alley ways of the central city. Lots of fellow pilgrims arriving. Photos then off to get our official parchment of completion, a proud possession. Found our rather cosy room nearby, then a quick visit to the Cathedral to embrace the Apostle James and light some candles. A late lunch and celebratory libation. We’ll attend the Pilgrim Mass at 7.30pm.

    Stayed: Libredón Rooms    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Old communal laundryPaths through villages...Beautiful non-delapidation1Divine Mercy church2Refueling in Milladoiro

    Milladoiro

    29 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    An 18km uphill trek today, surprisingly perfect conditions, we removed layers as we went. From Padrón we started in brisk sunny air along a river, took a coffee break at 4km then went through back village lanes, almost alleys, but a real insight into the local ways with vines and gardens mixed in with houses and small enterprises. Achieved our 2nd daily stamp at a Marian shrine, then it was into climbing hills through various villages, forests, chooks, goats and home produce gardens. A steep final 4 km with a welcome lunch at Milladoiro. Found our very snazzy 2 bedroom 2 bathroom apartment just off the Caminho, which made the arduous check-in worthwhile. Now for an ale waiting for a restaurant to open at 8.30. On to Santiago tomorrow, ponchos at the ready.

    Stayed: Alojamiento Santa Maria    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    2Foggy upriverThe river Ulla from Padrón sideSantiago church from our placeIn PadrónIn PadrónIn Padrón1In Padrón

    Padrón

    28 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    A rest day: a boat ride up the river, then a 3km walk.

    We had some breakfast in our rooms and headed down to the port area to board the 8am boat to Padrón.

    It was about a 90 minute ride, very chilly at times and very foggy as we got further upriver.

    The guide on the boat told us how mussels are farmed in the estuary of the Ulla River. There are large wooden platforms with many ropes dangling below. The ropes are seeded with baby mussels from the ocean. They cling to the ropes, grow to maturity and are harvested. All family businesses.

    Just before reaching the destination we passed through a particularly beautiful wetlands area, a nature reserve.

    On arrival we warmed up in the nearest coffee shop, before walking about 3km into central Padrón.

    We wandered through an enormous outdoor market, attended Mass at the church of Santiago and then checked into our apartment very close by.

    Tomorrow being a big walk day, we took it easy for the rest of the afternoon.

    Stayed: Santiaguiño 2    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Walking round the shore to Vilanova
    Leaving CambadosMarket day in CambadosTo VilanovaEntering Vilanova de ArousaEntering Vilanova de Arousa

    Vilanova de Arousa

    27 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    A short day, 8km, in unexpectedly fine weather

    We slept late and made breakfast from things we bought in the supermarket last night.

    Leaving the apartment just before the noon checkout time, we walked along the waterfront in Cambados and then just followed the shoreline to Vilanova de Arousa.

    It was just 8km and we arrived about 2pm. Access to our rooms was provided by a key box. The owner sent us the combination through the Booking.com app. The apartment is very comfortable and is just a few minutes from where we catch the boat upriver to Padrón tomorrow morning.

    We had expected a rainy day but it was fine all the way, with a brief shower just as we arrived.

    Mostly a day of rest today. Boat leaves at 8am tomorrow.

    Stayed: VIVE Home Vilanova de Arousa    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Magical hike down from Armenteira
    Ready for cooler wetter weatherReady for cooler wetter weather1Old mill below ArmenteiraBelow ArmenteiraOld mill below ArmenteiraFollowing the River Armenteira1Lovely path beside River ArmenteiraBeautiful path along River Umia2A bit of light rain so ponchos were deployedThe Galicians like their grapesView from our apartment in Cambados

    Cambados

    26 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    14km day, all downhill and beautiful, with some light rain.

    The bar serving breakfast in Armenteira opens at 9:30am so we made a late start. With rain predicted we donned long pants and warmer gear.

    By 10am we had eaten and were walking again.

    The Camino route down from Armenteira is delightful. It is a steep dirt track following the babbling river Armenteira. It was 4km of waterfalls, rushing water and lush mossy green forest. We passed about 3 dozen old abandoned grain mills, all made of stone and beautifully dilapidated.

    Eventually the slope lessened and we continued beside the river through beautiful forest along a broad dirt track.

    The track crossed a highway so we stopped for lunch at the excellent Restobar Peneira.

    Rain started as we left there but did not get very heavy. We donned ponchos for about an hour.

    The route continued downstream along the river Armenteira until it joins the river Umia, which we followed upstream into Ponte Arnelas. We passed lots of lush farmland planted with various vegetable crops and the ubiquitous grapes.

    In Ponte Arnelas we stopped for a cold drink and phoned for a taxi to Cambados. It is off the Camino route. We were unable to find a room in Ponte Arnelas.

    We’d planned to taxi back tomorrow and rejoin the official route to our next stay at Vilanova de Arousa but the direct walk from Cambados to there looks pleasant, along the coast so we will probably do that.

    After gaining entry to our apartment the rain picked up quite a bit so tomorrow could be soggy.

    One priority here is to replenish our Euro supply. We just had enough to cover the taxi fare. His credit card device only accepted Spanish cards.

    Stayed: Cambados Apartamento VUT-PO-TU986D    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Trappist convent in Armenteira
    1Church of San Pedro de Campaño, in CampaniolaBeautiful forest towards PoioNot a very thick house, PoioMonastery of St Xoán of PoioSeafood saladAbove Combarro, looking backAbove Combarro and climbingOn the climb to Armenteira looking backDown to ArmenteiraDown to Armenteira

    A Armenteira

    25 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A 22km day with a very tough 450m elevation climb, but a great variety of quiet rural scenery.

    We left our digs at Acolá Rooms before 8 and found a bar within meters offering the perfect hiker’s breakfast: fresh OJ, caffe con leche and two slabs of toast with jam.

    Then it was off over the Ponte do Burgo, a broad pedestrian bridge coinciding with the Camino route. The city looks impressive from the bridge.

    We joined a stream of pilgrims heading out of town and were soon in quite rural areas.

    Just after 3km we took a left turn on the somewhat lesser travelled route, the so called Spiritual Variant. Most pilgrims keep going straight ahead to Padrón.

    We were pleased to see a few others taking our route, and to see it was a well marked route too.

    The walk to Combarro was quite beautiful through backroads and lanes past many small vineyards and gardens.

    We stopped just before Combarro for an excellent lunch, seafood salad and lamb moussaka, fuel for the climb. Then on into town and around the water front area.

    Eventually the route turned uphill away from the water. We climbed very steeply through the maze of streets in the town.

    What followed was a mix of beautiful rising paths through tall eucalyptus forest, dirt fire trails and sealed road. There were great views back to Pontevedra at a couple of points, and lots of forestry harvesting activity.

    We summited at about the 19km mark. The descent into A Armenteira was along fire trails at first and finally a narrow rocky goat track where the poles were necessary to avoid falling.

    We found our place (another climb) a fairly oddly laid out and furnished apartment, and performed the usual arrival rituals.

    Weather has turned cold and maybe wet, we’re breaking out new ensembles.

    Now off to the only eatery in town for some grub.

    Stayed: Villa Flor Armenteira    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    1ArcadeView back to VigoSantiago graffitiBocadillo & Coke Zero for lunch

    Pontevedra

    24 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    22km with two tough climbs away from and back to sea level, in cooler shadier conditions.

    We were up early today to leave Redondela at sunrise which was about 7:40am.

    We deferred breakfast to the town of Arcade at about the 7km mark to get a jump on the longish walk.

    The walk to Arcade took us on mostly dirt tracks up over a hill of about 150m. At times the track was very steep. Lots of the route was through beautiful shady eucalyptus forest.

    We had a most welcome breakfast at the first place we saw in Arcade: juice, cafe con leche, avocado, egg and almonds on toast.

    Resuming the walk we did a similar climb again to about 150m, followed by a much more gentle descent into greater Pontevedra. We passed through some very picturesque farms on the hillsides on the way down.

    Then it was 6km or so along a lovely shaded path following the River Gafo well into the city of Pontevedra.

    We stopped at a bar for a late lunch of bocadillos and Cokes Zero before covering the final 2km to our room at Acolá Rooms in the city center. It’s a big city of 80,000 people. Lots going on as we walked through on a work day.

    After a rest and a shower, bodies remain functional and have found their way to a neighbourhood square with amber muscle relaxant.

    Stayed: Acolá Rooms    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    1Precipitous descent to SaxamondeParish church of Santiago, 15th centuryIn RedondelaIn Redondela

    Redondela

    23 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    17km including >400m elevation. An early start with quite a few fellow pilgrims. We quickly left the city of O Porriño and trekked through rural areas in quite crisp but sunny conditions. Our first stop after about 5km was at Mos, where church and surrounds were in recently cut stone. Coffee and juice fortified us for a long climb up over the ridge, on roads and through forest. A feature is the extent of small vineyards and produce fields associated with houses, and stone construction everywhere. We had a steep decline into Redondela, stopped for a simple lunch, then had an early check-in and rest.

    Stayed: Ático48    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Excellent coffee shop, RibadelouroLocal issue in Ribadelouro. (Rough translation seems to be "save the forests")St Elmo’s Ponte de Febres (bridge of fevers)Outskirts of O Porriño1Outskirts of O Porriño1There is an hórreo. We must be in Galicia.

    O Porriño

    22 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    An 18km day in beautiful weather and varied terrain. It’s good to be back in Galicia.

    We left our apartment at 8:50am and followed the riverbank before rejoining the official Camino route out of town.

    It was quite cool, requiring a jacket for perhaps 20 minutes. We were very soon in a very rural area and crossed some ancient Roman bridges.

    Then there was about an hour through beautiful tall forest, partly eucalyptus, walking on a well graded dirt path. A magical place, enhanced near St Elmo’s bridge of fevers by a bagpipe player. There is a very old Celtic culture in Galicia.

    After the forest we entered the village of Ribadelouro and had coffee and cake in a beautiful brand new coffee shop.

    The terrain is much more undulating than what we’ve seen, but nothing very steep so far.

    Some more walking through very quiet rural areas brought us to the edge of O Porriño. From there it was a pretty hot 5km slog in hot sun, with a welcome break in the middle for a lunch of tortilla, salad and Kaz Naranja Zero.

    We found our apartment a bit beyond the center of town. Entry was effected by the remote control of the owner and was a bit tricky, requiring her to send a video clip to us over WhatsApp to demo the correct technique.

    The place is small but very comfortable and big view from its 6th floor balcony.

    Cleaned up , laundered and went in search of further knee supplements and hop-based thirst remedies. The search was successful.

    Stayed: NOTRENiD    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Tui cathedral
    Banks of the MinhoIt's everywhere (Patterson's Curse, Riverina Bluebell)TuiThe TaperiaShrine in Tui backstreet

    Tui

    21 avril 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    16km.

    A slow start after our big day yesterday, a hearty hotel breakfast then we headed north-east along the Portuguese bank of the Minho River, with Spain always in sight. Our vista was very pleasant. Temp rose from 13c to 25c with strong sun, testing us a bit, 16km had seemed easy! Regular drink stops, we had coffee and juice at Bar de S. Paio, and trudged on to Valença, lunch options limited on a Sunday, had cafeteria snack then final push across the river border into Tui, Spain. Settled into our apartment, with a very welcome beer provided.

    Apartamento Tui, Casa da Barca    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Mouth of the Minho. That peak is in Spain.
    Seaside chapel for St Isidore, patron saint of software engineersIrish blokes negotiating a water taxi across to A Guarda in Spain2Welcome lunch break in Esqueiro

    Vila Nova de Cerveira

    20–21 avr. 2024, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A long day at 24km in warm dry conditions.

    We left our hotel after a hearty buffet breakfast. It was a delicious 14 Celsius as we proceeded up beside the beaches.

    Soon the mouth of the
    Minho River came into view . It forms the border with Spain. A big mountain looms over the inlet from the Spanish side. A big old fort, presumably Spanish sits on an island right at the mouth of the river.

    We walked about 10k to Caminha, situated a bit upstream on the Portuguese side. There was a very pleasant section through tall forest as we approached the south bank of the Minho.

    At the bank a water taxi service was available to take pilgrims directly across into Spain if they are walking the coastal route to Santiago.

    We farewelled some Irish blokes we’d met here and headed inland into Caminha proper for a juice and coffee. It was a long walk around the riverbank to get there.

    After our coffee we continued another 14km upstream on the south bank of the Minho. It was a pretty long hot trudge in 24C temps and not a lot of shade. In much of it were on an “ecopista” bike/foot path right beside the river. Fairly scenic at times.

    We found a restaurant open just uphill from the Esqueiro train stop and had some lunch.

    Finally reached our digs 2km beyond the town of Vila Nova de Cerveira about 6pm. It’s the Initel hotel.

    Washing, buffet dinner and off to bed. Next few days are shorter. Tomorrow we cross the river near Valença into Spain.

    Stayed: INATEL Cerveira Hotel    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Bridge to beach
    Approaching Praia do ÂncoraApproaching Praia do Âncora11

    Vila Praia do Âncora

    19 avril 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A 20km day, much of it near the beach. Our last day hugging the coast.

    After a good buffet breakfast at our hotel, AP Dona Aninhas, it was a 20 minute walk across town to the beach to the north.

    8km further was a coffee stop right off the beachside path.

    The track left the beach and climbed a headland at one point.

    After a dire (forgivable) navigation error by Kevin, incurring an unpleasant 2km trudge along a highway we found a lunch spot, Camarão, within sight of our goal, Vila Praia do Ancora.

    A couple of km later we were checking into Hotel Meira. Looks good.

    Stayed: Hotel Meira    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    1

    Viana do Castelo

    18–19 avr. 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    About 16k today and mostly off piste.

    We left our apartment about 9:30 after a continental brekkie and decided to follow the beach to our next stop, rather than the more inland official route.

    This required a bit of bush bashing early on to get into Amorosa for coffee but was far more scenic.

    We walked the last half along the packed sand just beyond the waves, including removing boots and socks to cross a stream. Water was very nice. Lunch of fillet fish. Then an inland detour on the south bank of the river Lima to cross the bridge into the town of Viana. A comparatively snazzy hotel. David had swim and sauna downstairs.

    Good dinner nearby of grilled squid and salad.

    Stayed: AP Dona Aninhas    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Fão1Outside wall of houseIn Marinhas on a green shirt daySt Michael's, Marinhas1In BelinhoDave feeling at home under a gum tree2...with view.

    Castelo da Neiva

    17 avril 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A 16km day nearly all inland, hot sun and some cobblestones, and one small climb.

    We had breakfast at our hostel, The Spot Ofir, and then an hour’s walk along the river Cávado.

    Setting out at 9:30 and had a few foot rest stops. We detoured along the beach as much as was possible, maybe 3km.

    Lunch at the 9km mark in Belinho was a “tosta mista” and a Coke at a bakery.

    Another 6 circuitous kms led us to where Google maps said our place was but it was not marked and took some finding behind a large unmarked locked gate. At the 3pm check-in time I phoned the owner and he provided a combination to get us in.

    The place is quite a nice apartment with a balcony overlooking a lush garden.

    The fridge has breakfast supplies too and we can make coffee.

    A short day but not as easy as expected. Great to have space to spread out in tonight.

    After cleaning up and a rest we dined at Restaurante Encosta do Monte, 500 up the hill, on the recommendation of the owner. Good grub, good value.

    Stayed: Quintinha do Periqueiro    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Póvoa de Varzim
    Coffee stopRed shirt dayEucalyptus forest just before FãoGood wine from Alentejo region

    Fão

    16 avril 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Another full size day at 22km, near perfect weather and flat.
    A wholesome brekkie at our hotel then on the path at 8.00am. Planned a break for coffee around 7km but nothing open until after 8km, then coffee but no snack. Carried on past multiple market gardens and greenhouses to Apulia, was pretty warm and cobblestone roads were tough on feet. A basic late lunch and on to Fao via rustic farm lanes. Revised plan for a few days time, we’re going well. Our Fao boarding house has a pool, looks enticing.

    Stayed: The Spot Hostel Ofir    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    1On the trackBoardwalk1Seeing more Caminho signageBoardwalkFish salting tubs made by the RomansShoe adjustmentSand slowing our progressEntering Vila do Conde11

    Vila do Conde

    15 avril 2024, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    A full sized day at 24km.

    We left Matosinhos at 8:30am and did 6km before stopping for breakfast at Cabo do Mundo. It took about 40 minutes to get out of Matosinhos and onto the ocean promenade.

    Most of the rest of the day was walking on wooden boardwalks over the dunes behind the beach with wonderful views of the ocean.

    Towards the end the sand had shifted to cover up the boardwalk so we had to slog through deep sand for a few stretches.

    The weather was sunny and perfectly clear with a cooling breeze, making for excellent walking conditions.

    We had lunch and a foot airing at Vila Chã, in a bar/bakery. Kev ordered a “Cachorro da Padaria” not knowing how big the thing was. With Dave’s help we did it justice.

    Then it was about 8km to Vila do Conde. We passed the very long and wide beach south of town where lots of surfers were enjoying the nice regular swell rolling in.

    We’ve checked in to Hotel Brazão near the centre of town.

    After getting clean and washing clothes we dined on some big prawns cooked in garlic, washed down with the house vinho verde. It was a tiny family run restaurant, Adega do Testas.

    Stayed: Hotel Brazão    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Old Porto from the Cathedral"Street" down to river level1Approaching MatosinhosBeach at Matosinhos (cruise terminal in the background)3Port in (greater) PortoPort in (greater) Porto

    Matosinhos

    14–15 avr. 2024, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    An 11km day, all flat along the water.

    A gentle start, brekkie recommended by gendarmes nearby, packed and off to the 12th century cathedral, obtained our stamped Caminho credentials, attended Mass with full choir, then took narrow lanes downhill to the River Douro.

    We turned right, fought the wild crowds along the river for about 5km and stopped for lovely lunch. Further along river and another right turn to follow the Atlantic and Porto’s western beaches north, weather perfect, lots of beach goers and a few swimmers and board riders. Beaches very wide and quite crowded.

    Now in our micro studio contemplating the beach and maybe a swim. Probably a small ale to follow. . . the first large one.
    A long day tomorrow an early start planned. Day One completed!

    After unpacking we returned to the beach and had a swim. The water was clean and clear, with a nice regular 2 foot swell and the water temperature a brisk 14.5c.

    Stayed: Fishtail Sea House    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Azulejo wall on the Chapel of Souls2Douro River from cathedral

    Porto

    13 avril 2024, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We woke pretty early after a good sleep. Just after 7am we headed out for a walk in search of coffee along the Rio Tejo toward the Vasco da Gama tower.

    Not much opens before 8am it seems. So we looped back to the train station area and had a light breakfast there just after 8am at Jeronymo’s on the main plaza.

    Back to the hotel then, we showered, packed and walked to the bus station. The 10:10am FlixBus got us to Porto by about 1:30pm.

    The route was a good 4-lane freeway through farmland. Lots of olive trees and tall slender eucalyptus groves.

    On arrival in Porto we walked the 3km to our hotel, stopping off for a very good lunch (falafel sandwich & shakshouka) in a Middle Eastern place in a very busy part of town.

    Our hotel is opposite the Trindade metro station.

    In the evening we took the metro down to the Cathedral where we need to collect our credencial tomorrow to officially start our “caminhada”.

    After a stroll through the very steep and labyrinthine back streets of old Porto we found a place to dine: octopus with a good local (Douro) red wine.

    Stayed: Hotel Porto Interface Trindade By Kavia    En savoir plus

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  • Caminho Português
    Moov HotelBreakfast in Oriente2Dave looking fresh after 29 hours travel1Dinner

    Lisbon

    12–13 avr. 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Dave and Kevin met in Lisbon today. We will travel to Porto tomorrow, stay overnight, and then start walking north to Santiago.

    Dave had a 29 hour trip from home in Australia and is jet lagged. Kevin is better off after his brief 5+ hour hop from Boston.

    Today after meeting at the airport we walked to the Moov Hotel in the Oriente district. Later a brief visit to the huge Decathlon shop nearby to buy hiking poles and shorts. We hoped to dine at the well reviewed “Esta no papo” but it was too early. We made do with sandwiches and beers in a fairly seedy bar nearby.

    The weather is expected to be warm and sunny for the next week or more so we are looking forward to the walk in good conditions.

    Stayed: Moov Hotel Lisboa Oriente    En savoir plus

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  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela

    24 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Final day: wet but short, 11.5km. Destination reached.

    We left our hotel about 7:30 with ponchos stowed but within seconds of stepping outside the rain started. Ponchos were donned and off we went into the rain.

    It was a good path, no mud, mostly sealed roads or tracks. Also mostly lit by streetlights except for a small stretch when a head lamp was needed.

    After about 2km we found an excellent bar open and had a good breakfast (juice, toast, coffee). We also obtained there the one remaining sello or stamp in our credencial document proving where we had walked each day.

    We set off into town, passing through a village or two before a longish walk across Santiago proper to the cathedral.

    It rained on and off for the entire walk, at times quite heavily. So we arrived about 10:45 with wet shoes and feet.

    We got slightly lost in the old part of town as it is a maze there and the Camino markers seemed to disappear. But soon enough we emerged beside the Cathedral.

    We immediately bumped into Tony our Kiwi fellow pilgrim from Tennant Creek.

    We then took care of getting our official compostela or certificate of completion, written in Latin, including the Latin forms of our first names. It was a very quick process and we still had just enough time to check our packs for later collection and attend the noon pilgrim Mass in the Cathedral. It was standing room only. At the end they did swing the famous botafumeiro, censing the place up well. We were lucky to catch it as it doesn’t happen every day.

    After Mass we ran across our Hoosier friends just as they arrived. We will meet them later for dinner. Then a bite of lunch before checking into the Libredon hotel just a short walk around the corner from the cathedral.

    A few statistics:
    • 42 days
    • 904km walked comprising
    • 772km Camino Frances plus 132km after arriving each day and rest days
    • 1,163,950 footsteps
    • 13,079 metres altitude ascent and similar descent
    • 885 pilgrims arrived in Santiago the day we arrived
    • 2 of more than 400,000 to complete a Camino in 2022    En savoir plus

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  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Salceda to Lavacolla

    23 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    2nd last day, 19.3km, worst weather yet. Sloshing wet feet for 6 hours. 460m ascended, 680m descended.

    It was rainy and windy at breakfast time so we delayed departing till 8:30 when visibility was sufficient without a headlamp.

    Then it was head down and walk through some appalling weather: rain with very few breaks, and wind gusting very strongly at times. In some of the eucalyptus forests the wind roaring through the trees was thunderous.

    Speaking of eucalyptus, we saw some very large, both in diameter and height, older growth stringybark trees, especially in the latter half of the walk and near the airport.

    We’d had a good breakfast so decided we’d cover 10km before stopping to eat. In the end it was at Amenal at the 13km mark that we stopped for coffee and a somehow disappointing bocadillo de jamon. Had been hoping for a burger or spaghetti bolognese but the cook was off duty.

    From there it was a 2km muddy creek of a track up to the Santiago airport runway, rising about 100m vertical.

    The Camino took us round the end of the runway and wandered along for a while till we reached our hotel, the Garcas, in Lavacolla, about 11km from Santiago cathedral. Tomorrow’s walk is also expected to be a rainy one, but it will be shorter.

    Now to find some way to get our boots somewhat dry. A shakedown in the bathtub followed by inverting them on top of the heating convector on the wall looks promising.    En savoir plus

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  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Boente to Salceda

    22 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    21km of mostly beautiful rural paths and an hour of rain.

    We planned for an early start to enable us to avoid possible rain patches with strategic coffee breaks. Down to the bar for 7:00am breakfast and found the place in darkness. We returned to our room to pack up and be on our way and found breakfast in full swing at 7:30 as we went down to leave.

    So refuelled we walked in darkness with a headlamp for 40 minutes until first light. For 8km the Camino followed a country path below overhanging trees up and down across several small river valleys until our coffee and cake stop in Arzúa.

    Arzúa also gave us access to an ATM to replenish cash and a farmacia for blister dressings and Vitamin I (ibuprofen). It would have been nice to check out the weekly street market but rain was predicted and we moved on.

    Leaving Arzúa through unpaved country lanes we encountered more of the eucalyptus groves we had seen yesterday. There are 400k hectares of Aussie eucalyptus forests in Galicia. Saw some fine old Stringy Barks.

    We stopped for a lunch of empanadas at Casa Do Hórreo in Ferreira just 3.5km short of our destination for the day. It started to rain and continued quite heavily for an hour so we stayed under cover for dessert and coffee. With no letup in the rain we donned our ponchos and walked on in the now easing rain and continued onto our accommodation.

    Now after dinner we are drying wet gear for tomorrow’s predicted downpour.    En savoir plus

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  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Palas de Rei to Boente

    21 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    21km in good weather with just a short shower of rain.

    The weather forecast had been dire so we were expecting another drenching. Grateful it didn’t happen.

    We had a good breakfast at a bar in Palas de Rei and put our heads down and cranked out 10km or so while the good weather was with us.

    Stopped for café cortado and cake at O Leboreiro. Then pressed on expecting rain at any time.

    By 14km we were in need of a proper refueling and had arrived in Melide so we stopped for a lunch of pizza.

    Melide looks like a pretty busy center but we didn’t linger. A km or two beyond the town the rain started falling so ponchos were deployed.

    But it rained lightly and only for about 30 minutes. Not enough to wet our feet.

    Eventually the ponchos were stowed and we walked on to our destination of Boente. It’s a pretty small town. The pensión is very good. We will dine here too as other options are scarce,

    There were lots of eucalyptus trees in the forests we walked through today. Some were quite old and large stringy barks.    En savoir plus

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  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino
    At last blue sky around 3pm. Let the drying begin.Walking into Palas de Rei

    Portomarín to Palas de Rei

    20 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    27km and soggy again.

    The rain in Spain falls mainly in Galicia. And the rain in Galicia falls mainly on Kevin and John.

    An excellent breakfast at our Portomarín hotel and an increasingly late sunrise meant we didn’t get walking until 8:15 and it was still dark. We also knew from the great Spanish weather app that we would be in for rain from midday.

    We walked through the full length of Portomarín then across the river accompanied by the most pilgrims we had seen leaving predawn. Most will have started their Camino yesterday in Sarria which at 113km is the closest starting point at which pilgrims can obtain the Compostela.

    We climbed steadily from an overnight 400m to around 600m when it started raining and continued steadily for three hours as we climbed to 720m. Seeking some respite and warmth we called into Casa Mariluz in Agaete for the restorative effects of Galician soup.

    On the track again we briefly experienced the heaviest rain of the day before the sun reappeared and thawed us out as we completed the last 8km into Palas de Rei.

    Like yesterday we had 3.5 hours of quite heavy rain while walking. But the soup break fortified us for further trudging, and the sunny conditions late in the day lifted our spirits and made a small start on drying out sodden footwear.

    We checked into Pensión San Marcos and it is just great: modern clean and comfortable. They cater well for pilgrims with an urgent need to wash and dry stuff. Oodles of clothesline space in the sun, and heating radiators in the room that are turned on !!

    The pensión is massive, discreetly scattered over several buildings just a block or two from the middle of town.

    Based on Google reviews we had dinner at Pulperia A Nosa Terra. The kitchen opened at 7pm and the place is just a tiny bar so we cleverly squatted at a table at 6:20 and had a cleansing radler before requesting a menu. Dinner was very good. Kevin satisfied his craving for pulpo (octopus) and John had pork tenderloin prepared nicely, washed down with a good temperanillo, crepes, espresso. The place seemed to be very well run by just 3-4 people. Terrific Galician food.    En savoir plus

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  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino
    1"Why am I here doing all this walking?"

    Sarria to Portomarín

    19 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    A 25km day with lots of rain.

    We left our pensión at 7:45, surprised to find it was not raining. The forecast was 100% certain about lots of rain. We had no sooner sat down in the first bar we found for breakfast when the heavens opened. It was torrential and sideways at times in the strong wind. Alas it was much the same when we’d downed our juice, toast and coffee so we donned the ponchos and headed out into it. It continued to rain, and very heavily at times, all morning. Some of the tracks leading out of Sarria were turned into creek beds. They improved outside the city limits a bit. In these circumstances, resigned to having sodden feet all day, we put our heads down and cranked out 12km without a break.

    Pilgrim traffic was noticeably heavier due to those beginning their trek at Sarria. So much so that there was a line out the door at the coffee place we passed as the rain cleared. We walked on a few hundred meters and stopped in a shed containing vending machines, and tucked into a KitKat and coffee. From then on there was little rain and we were able to appreciate the beautiful countryside: more lush green cow country, with a tiny village every few kilometers. About an hour later we stopped at a very nice bar at Brea and had something resembling lunch.

    Along the track we met some of the usual suspects, Lisa from Portland, and Paula (a.k.a Hot Wheels) and her 3 fellow Hoosier pals (Hoosier = person native to Indiana). We took pictures of each other at the milepost indicating we had exactly 100km to travel to reach Santiago.

    One other stop for a drink at a nice bar in Mercadoiro before covering the final 6km or so to Portomarín. There was quite a steep descent just before reaching a very high bridge over the Miño river leading into town.

    We checked into our Pousada de Portomarín. It’s a grand old place, a former Parador, built in the 1960s. Relieved to find our wet feet had no blisters, we took care of some washing and boot drying and headed downstairs for the usual couple of cleansing radlers.

    This place has a restaurant where we will dine and breakfast, thus avoiding any unnecessary walking.

    We were happy with the ponchos’ performance today. They felt a bit clammy in the heavy rain but everything under them remained quite dry.    En savoir plus

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  • Aussie Brothers’ Camino

    Triacastela to Sarria

    18 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Shortish walk today just 17.9km. There was a bit of vertical nonsense though. Mostly through cow country again. These are all dairy herds I think.

    (While I think of it we had a top notch 3 course menu del dia last night up the street at the Complexo Xacabeo. 12€ each. A very well run establishment.)

    Leaving in the dark as usual after breakfast at our pensión, Casa David, we climbed steadily for a couple of hours up past San Xil. At the peak we were up 400 meters.

    The rest of the walk was a steady descent of 628 meters to Sarria.

    We refueled with some snacks from the vending machine in the village of Montán.

    We stopped for lunch at Pintín where we had the local version of a meat pie: not bad.

    About 3km on a dirt track beside the road to enter Sarria.

    The weather was cool, dry and sunny with occasional periods of very strong winds.

    We quickly found our digs in the Pensión Rua Peregrino.

    This is a fairly big town but definitely rural. We heard cows mooing a kilometer or so from our pension. You can also smell cow stuff from the middle of town when the wind is right.

    We will run a few errands when the shops open later.

    We are now about 113km from Santiago. We expect to cover it in 5.5 more days. Many people just walk from here to Santiago. We are expecting heavier traffic due to those joining the route here.    En savoir plus

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