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Rachael K
Rachael K

Rachael K

Living in: Kansas, United States of America Read more🇺🇸Kansas
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  • Rachael KKudjip, PNGTraveler

    Miraculous recovery

    November 26, 2024 in Papua New Guinea ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    3 nights ago, while I was on call, I was summoned to the ER for a young woman who was having trouble breathing and was very confused. I did all I could think of- putting her on oxygen by face mask and nasal cannula (to mimic a CPAP), breathing treatments, steroids, diuretics. I did an ultrasound of her heart, which didn’t look abnormal. I told her family that I wasn’t sure she would survive. We prayed together and, when I didn’t have anything more to do, I went home. After more prayers for a miracle, I went back to sleep.

    The next morning I didn’t see her on the ward. As I walked to the ER, one of the nurses rolled her by on a gurney, I thought going to the morgue as she looked lifeless. Her family trailed behind, not crying (which is very unusual). I thought she was yet one more person that we could have cared for better back in the States- she would’ve been intubated, scanned, and in an ICU.

    So imagine my surprise when I see her on the ward, sitting up and breathing ok. I had to triple check that it was her. Today I told her that I didn’t think she was going to make it that night. We praised God together that she is recovering and doing well, and that He is healing her.

    It’s so hard to understand why one person is healed and another not, at least not the way I’d like to see. As I’ve struggled through this confusion, I’ve come to the place of thinking that the Lord asks me to come in faith that he can heal, and leave it to Him. If I trust that He knows best, then I can trust that He will see them through whatever happens. Sometimes we’re not healed, and God works through the grief and confusion. But sometimes they are, like this woman.    Read more

  • Rachael KKudjip, PNGTraveler
    Nighttime at the hospital
    Cockroaches are common. This was in the staff bathroom

    A day in my life

    November 20, 2024 in Papua New Guinea ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I’ve been wanting to share what a typical day here is like. On any given weekday, hospital rounds start at 8 am. Monday mornings start at 7:30 with chapel, Fridays at 7:30 with a doctor’s meeting. After rounds on weekdays, generally I’m in the ER seeing patients. If it’s slow, I got across the “hall” to the clinic and help out there. Every 4 days or so, I’m on call. Usually it’s a 24 hour call, with rounds the next morning before having the rest of the day off. Call varies a lot. Sometimes it’s busy, sometimes not. Patients in the ER or those on the ward with some issue are my responsibility. As I don’t do OB care, someone else is assigned to that ward. I always have a long-term doc as backup for help.

    There’s a more or less protected lunchtime, which has been wonderful. It’s nice to have an hour for lunch and not have to eat here and there between seeing patients. After clinic ends around 4, I often go on a short walk before making (or reheating dinner). Dishes get washed and put away, water filtered, sometimes the floor swept. Some evenings there’s a Bible study or prayer meeting. Sundays the single people get together for a food swap, so they have different dishes to eat throughout the week (I go but eat my own food- the socialization is nice).

    I’ve been sick for about 2 weeks with back-to-back crud, so my time off has been less having fun or working out and more laying in bed. I’m on the upswing from a head cold and pray that it’s gone completely before I leave in a few days!    Read more

  • Rachael KKudjip, PNGTraveler

    Worlds apart

    November 13, 2024 in Papua New Guinea ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    My plans of writing a little blurb every few days were foiled by my GI system rebelling. I still don’t know if I accidentally ate some gluten or if I caught something. Regardless I’m feeling back to normal today, praise God!

    I wish it were easy to share life here in a few words, but when compared to the US or Europe, PNG is a world apart. I did some reading yesterday- PNG is the 29th poorest country in the world. I see the effects of this every day in the hospital and clinic. Medications we use every day aren’t available, people often come in barefoot because they can’t afford shoes.

    People often delay care. I’m not sure how much of this is due to poverty, how much is cultural and/or a sense of fatalism, and how much is the rugged terrain that impedes travel. There are probably myriad more reasons that I simply don’t know of or understand. So I see patients coming in with advanced cancer yet to be diagnosed. People with TB affecting their lungs, their brain, their spleen, their belly. Infections that we rarely see in the US are more common and often more advanced.

    And yet, I also see people who are so grateful for the care they receive, who give a deeper thank you than I hear back home. I hear children laughing outside as they play. I see families caring for their loved ones. And I hear the voices of staff, students, and families praising Jesus. The longer I’m here, the more I see what a privilege it is to be serving here.

    (I hope to share about my daily life and some stories in the coming days. Pictures are mostly devoid of people as I want to protect patient confidentiality. And I’m bad at remembering to take photos!)    Read more

  • Rachael KKudjip, PNGTraveler
    1My place1Old WW2 airplane that has been made into play equipment

    One week in

    November 6, 2024 in Papua New Guinea ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Good morning from the other side of the world!

    I’ve tried several times to write a new post, but words have failed me. Probably a combination of jet lag and things being so different here. To be honest, my first week at Kudjip was very challenging. Now after one week, I’ve gotten the hang of daily life here and am getting my feet wet with the medical side of things.

    I think I’ll try giving little snapshots of life here in this next several posts- some about where they’ve put me up, what cooking/getting food here is like, work, etc. For now, I’ll leave this post saying that, despite how challenging life here is, I’m thankful to be here. My heart wasn’t at a place I could say that one month ago, but the Lord has been softening my heart. I’m thankful I can come provide some relief to the long-term missionaries and local doctors, that I can learn from locals and from people who live here, and that I am gaining eyes to see the beauty around me.

    I haven’t taken many photos, but I’ll post the few that I do have.    Read more

  • Rachael KKudjip, PNGTraveler

    Here we go!

    October 28, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 81 °F

    Today starts a month-long mission trip to Papua New Guinea. It’s a long travel day, starting in Lawrence and ending outside of Mount Hagen, PNG (technically I think it’s two days, plus one that’s missed because of time change). I’m headed to Kudjip Nazarene Hospital in the Western Highlands of PNG. Ten years ago I spent a month there on a rotation as a resident. Now I’m headed back to provide relief to local workers and maybe to reconnect with why I went into medicine. I couldn’t do this without the help of my family and friends, who are so graciously caring for my pets and lifting me up in prayer. I’m excited to learn to lean on the Lord more and see him use me as his hands and feet.Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler

    Santiago de Compostela

    May 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I made it. After 41 days of walking, resting, planning, changing said plans, worrying, hurting, meeting new friends. After restless nights, umpteen pilgrim meals, and pushing my body and mind in new way. I made it!

    With rain forecast for tomorrow and wanting to enjoy my last day, I decided to push a bit harder at the end. The casa rural where I stayed a couple nights ago gave me the best sleep I’ve had the whole Camino. So yesterday I walked 16 miles and felt good pretty much the whole time. Whenever that pesky muscle would start to flare up, I was at a spot and time for a break anyway. I found myself flying down the path and enjoying it. One last albergue stay last night, an early morning start because I always wake up earlier when I’m in a room with 16 strangers.

    Today my body forced me sometimes to go slower, which was ok for a last day. Then, after 12 miles today, nearly 500 since the start, and 41 days later I made it! I think it’ll take some time to sink in. For now I’m enjoying knowing that I don’t have to walk tomorrow, some Camino friends will arrive tomorrow and the next day, and I have time to rest.    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
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    Portomarín-Ventas de Narón-Ponte Campañ—

    May 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    It’s hard to believe that in 2 days my Camino will be over. I feel like, just as I reach the end, I’ve learned how I enjoy this. Last night I wasn’t ready for the end to come. This morning, when I was tired and there were a lot of people, I was so ready to reach Santiago. I think there may always be the part of me that’s ready for the next thing or to finish something and have a sense of accomplishment. But I’ve learned to enjoy the journey, to slow down and watch a sunset or a river flowing. I’m so grateful that I’ve been able to come and do this. There are parts of me that can’t envision doing anything but getting up and walking all day. Then there are parts of me that are looking forward to staying in one place for more than a few days.Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    I've seen some agave around- pretty sure it's not native!
    1Hórreo- historically used for grain storage

    Sarria-Morgade-Portomarín

    May 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Sarria- it was gray and rainy most of my time there. The hostal where I stayed had comfortable beds, hot water, and a blow dryer. Otherwise it was 🫤 But the rest did me good! I was able to get all my laundry washed, catch up with some friends for dinner, and stumbled on something that looked like a Spartan race happening in the pouring rain, which I enjoyed watching.

    Yesterday I walked slowly to Morgade, which is less of a village and more of a nice albergue with a restaurant attached. I had a great dinner with people from around Europe. Probably ties for the nicest albergue I’ve been in. Today was a shorter walk to Portomarín. I hit the 100km mark today! As of this afternoon, I have 91.7km left until Santiago. It’s so hard to believe that within a week, I’ll be there! My body is continuing to get better, but I’m still taking it easy for at least another day.

    The undesired injury has increased my thankfulness for being here. Yesterday I was so happy to be back walking, regardless of how slow I go. Walking slowly also enables me to notice what’s around me in ways I might otherwise miss. I think one of the biggest lessons I’m learning is to be present in the moment.    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler

    Villafranca del Bierzo

    May 2–3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Life never goes as we plan. While life on the Camino is different, it’s still life. All this to say, my plans have been disrupted. The last few days I walked, I’d have 5-15 minutes a couple times of some intense low back/glute pain. I was a bit nervous about the 15 mile walk from Ponferrada to Villafranca having experienced this, but I already had reservations, and it was generally so short-lived that I figured I’d be ok. The first half of the walk was ok- low energy, but no pain. I was finally getting into it when the stabbing pain started back up. Fortunately I was entering a town, so I figured a little coffee break and I’d be good to go. Wrong. It was still there when I got up to keep walking, but I figured it would just take some time. I walked past a posting for a taxi, thought “I should take a photo just in case” and then forgot to do so 🤦‍♀️ The next 8+ miles were brutal. It’s been a long time since I’ve had to dig that deep to push through. Little by little, I made it to the best hostel I’ve been in. The hospitalero is wonderful. I hoped to find a physiotherapist here who could help me, but alas, there isn’t one. So today I’m catching a bus to Sarria, where the last 100km of the Camino starts. My current plan is to stay there for 3 nights before walking again, but I’m trying to not make too many plans at this point. I’m bummed about it, but hopeful that I’ll be back on the Camino in a few days.Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler

    Ponferrada- the Knights Templar

    May 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Did you know that the Knights Templar existed? And that they were formed to protect pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago? I didn’t. The hostal I stayed at was right next to the Castle of the Knights Templar. When I think of medieval castles, THIS is what I envision- walls with slits for arrows (or maybe just for light??), toothed tops, turrets, etc. It was really neat to explore the site and learn more about the people who built it and lived here.Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    Chorizo & garbanzo stew I made- surprisingly good
    Second day at the arepa placeCast of a Roman footprintHobbit holes for wine storage- all over the place!Typical morning walk on the mesetaRoman/mideval bridgeRoman ruins of house with mosaic floorVisigothic chaliceAstorga cathedralGluten free waffles

    So many days, one post

    May 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    When last I wrote, I was in the middle of the meseta. The next day I walked 4 miles to catch a bus into Leon, where I stayed for 2 nights before walking again. Yesterday I completed the walk from León to Astorga. After some sightseeing there (Gaudi built a bishop’s palace there - the same Gaudi who did the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona), I caught a bus to Ponferrada. While I wish I could’ve walked it rather than bussing, there are time constraints. So I’ll be in Ponferrada today and set out again tomorrow morning. In less than two weeks, I’ll be in Santiago!

    One defining feature of my Camino is doing it with celiac. This is my first trip abroad since my diagnosis. While in many ways, eating out in Spain is easier than in the States because of labeling and knowledge, it’s still not easy. Spanish breakfasts are heavy on pastries; lunch and dinner are always accompanied by a hunk of bread. While there’s often a gluten free food option for everything, there’s not much variety. Second breakfast (as a Dutch friend calls it) is usually Spanish tortilla, which is basically a frittata of egg and potatoes. Later meals are often “ensalada mixta” (salad with hard-boiled egg, tuna, tomatoes, and olives with oil and vinegar) or chicken/pork loin with fries. No seasoning, no sauce. I was fine with this at first, but after eating this for over a month, I’m kind of done.

    Whenever I go to a big city, I research gluten free options. There were several available in León, but I ended up eating almost entirely at an arepa place. 100% gluten free restaurant AND Colombian food (with good guac)? Yes please! Then I went grocery shopping at a chain grocery here known for having a lot of GF foods. I may have gone a bit crazy and bought A LOT. To the point that it’s been a challenge to pack everything into my bags everyday. Definitely not lamenting having this problem, but maybe next time I need to exercise a little more self-discipline.

    Currently I’m sitting in a 100% GF bakery in Ponferrada. Breakfast was savory waffles- 2 fluffy and tasty waffles topped with jamon serrano, an egg, sprouts, and hollandaise sauce. Delicious!

    Now here’s the honesty: both of these restaurants have nearly brought me to tears. It’s so rare that I can walk into a restaurant and get whatever I want without worrying about what’s happening in the kitchen. It’s something I used to take for granted but now, it’s a treat. I’m so grateful for these restaurants (and for the internet so I can find them!). I know the restaurant industry isn’t easy and I imagine it’s that much harder when you’re a niche place. I’m so thankful for these restaurants that work hard to provide delicious food for people like me.

    A couple days ago, I met an American couple whose son has celiac. It’s made me think about creating a celiac’s guide to the Camino Frances. There’s not much available on the internet, so it’s been a lot of trial and error for me. I think something like this could be helpful for others.    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler

    Carrión-San Nicolás-Bercianos-Reliegos

    April 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    First off, my feet are doing so much better. Thank you all for your prayers! While still tired and somewhat painful (especially a couple of new blisters), barring a new issue, I don’t think they’ll cut my walk short. I think this is the most days I’ve walked in a row without a rest day.

    Walking on the Spanish meseta, sometimes I forget where I am. It feels so familiar, so much like home. Until I walk over a small hill into a Spanish village or look north and see mountains (definitely don’t have those in Kansas!) It’s very evident that some of the villages are impoverished and likely wouldn’t exist if not for the Camino. In some places, cats far outnumber the children I see. There must’ve been a front blowing through- the wind was persistent and cold for a couple days before finally relenting. Feels like home!

    I’ve officially cross the halfway mark of the Camino. Yesterday I walked through Sahagún. Though it’s apparently a little past halfway, they claim the title and give out a certificate (for a few Euros). It’s crazy to think how far I’ve gone. In many ways I’ve settled into the routine of getting up, eat, walk, stop for coffee or food whenever available or when I desire, check into albergue, shower, laundry, groceries, sleep, repeat.

    So far today I’ve walked 363km since April 2, which is about 226 miles. I’ve bussed 45 miles thus far, though tomorrow I intend to take another bus about 15 miles into Leon- I’ve heard it’s a pretty boring walk. I’ve been amazed at what my body is capable of over the last few weeks. It’s a fun place to be. And at times when it’s hard, there are little notes of encouragement along the way (“que valiente eres”- how brave you are!)

    Just in the last few days I’ve started to think in terms of “when I finish the Camino” instead of “if I finish.” There are still hard days, but overall I’ve been enjoying myself. My mom encouraged me to let my mind rest- apparently it takes 3 weeks for me to get to that spot!    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    Leaving Burgos- here we go!
    Albergue dinner- PAELLAAlmost didn't stop here. Then I saw Elvis and went in for some coffee. Love the doggy scritches!Grade of the road going down- it was 12% on the way up1What kind of crop is this???

    Burgos-Hornillos-Castrojeriz-Boadilla

    April 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    Whelp, the best made plans never last long, do they? My goal of walking shorter distances fell apart as I left Burgos and trekked onto the meseta. Think of the Great Plains but maybe a bit hillier and arid - that’s what the last few days have been. I hear it gets flatter as we move west. With this in mind, it may not come as a surprise to anyone that towns are smaller with fewer resources and spaced out quite a bit. So, that’s left me walking 12-13 miles the last 3 days with a 15 mile day planned for tomorrow. There’s less physical effort required; I’m finding that the start of the day is the best time to think and pray. Today, I intentionally went slower: I left later than usual, walked slower, took time to watch a bird fly through the air, journaled after a big hill climb, and took breaks when I thought it was time. With that, I think today was one of my favorites so far.

    Sending my main bag ahead by car to the next town has been so helpful. It takes a bit more planning, but now I know there’s always food I can eat, and I don’t have to worry about how much the food weighs. My daypack is light, which helps make the walk more enjoyable.

    A big issue today remains my feet. I’m pretty sure I’ve developed some plantar fasciitis in both feet- heel pain isn’t pad, but the arch pain is pretty bothersome. I’m doing what I can to work on it, but obviously would appreciate prayers as well. I’m enjoying the meseta and would like to continue walking it for as long as I can.

    The other main thing I’m struggling with is sleep. My body refuses to fall asleep before 11 or midnight, then I wake up countless times before getting up at 6 or 6:30. For now, I’m trying to focus on a phone-free evening wind down. Tonight I’m sleeping in a room with 30 of my new best friends, so we’ll see how it goes. So prayers for sleep would be great too!

    (Side note: I’ve decided that the main smell of albergue dormitories is stinky feet mixed with damp towels, stale clothes, and sweaty bodies 🤢 pretty sure I won’t ever miss that smell!)    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    Mailbox at the post officeEl Cid's coffin (Spanish hero of old)Trouble!

    Burgos

    Apr 16–19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    The morning of April 15, I took the bus to Burgos. Apparently the hotel I booked was pretty nice and right next to the Burgos St Mary’s Cathedral. It’s beautiful, though as a Protestant I admit that much of the interior ornamentation is lost on me.

    While on the bus, I was thinking that maybe it was time for my Camino to be done. Initially I felt peaceful about it, as it wasn’t turning out to be what I was looking for. But with time for prayer and thinking, as well as talking with my mom, I realized that I wasn’t ready to be finished. One of my goals has been to slow down, to take life at a more moderate pace rather than having the whiplash of going 0-100 then back to zero because I crash. So I stayed in Burgos another day to allow time to relax and walk the city (which is one of my favorite ways of seeing a new place), get some logistical things done (sending bags on, planning the next stages, looking at buses, etc).

    Food in Burgos hasn’t been easy, though I have found a couple restaurants that do pizza for celiac. The one a couple days ago was delicious! Waiting on one from a different place- tbd.

    As I was walking to lunch, I heard church bells ringing. I walked in, as I hadn’t seen this church yet, and quickly realized that a mass was about to start (service? Not sure if it was a mass or if there’s a difference). So I decided to stay. I’ve only attended one mass ever, when I was in high school in Mexico. While I understood much more of the words this time, about half was lost on me. The sermon text was from Acts where the church was scattered because of persecution. It was a reminder (again) that even in the hard things, where we don’t understand why things are hard or why we’re suffering, God is working. He used the apostles suffering to spread the Good News. I pray that the Lord continue to teach me about his providence and purposes.

    Also, I have the best parents. Apparently Riggs found a couple of SOS pads and thought they looked like a great snack, so he ate them! Dad took him to the vet, but they couldn’t get him to bring them back up, so they went to the emergency vet in KC, who took them out. Pup was supposed to go for a much needed haircut today, but instead is staying home to recover 🤦‍♀️ So thankful for my parents willingness to take care of my crazy and needy dog!    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    1

    Days ??? Logroño-Navarrete-Azofra-Santo

    April 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    The last several days are a bit of a blur. The preplanned next leg was to walk Logroño to Nájera, which is almost 18 miles. I just didn’t feel up to walking that far again, so I did what I thought would be an easy 8 miles. It felt like it lasted forever! In retrospect, I don’t think I gave the distance the credit it deserved- 8 miles isn’t nothing!

    Upon entering Navarrete, I ran into some Camino friends. We had a nice time sitting on the terrace and relaxing. Talking with one of them made me consider more what I want this Camino to look like- why am I here, what do I want to get out of it? It’s hard to think much while walking because I’m constantly paying attention to details- am I developing any hot spots on my feet? Did I miss a sign for the path? How much further should I go before I take break? What am I going to eat and where am I going to sleep tonight? Plus the frequent self talk of “you can do this!” In speaking with her, I’m realizing that it’s less important for me to walk every step of this path and more important for me to have that time to think and pray. I’m learning that my ideal distance is 8-13 miles in a day, so I think I’ll be cutting a fair amount of the Camino out along the way.

    I’m more than 25% done with the Camino and have walked more than 100 miles so far. Tonight I’m staying in a hostal with a couple of Camino friends- we have comfy beds and our own bathroom! I walked 10 miles this morning in about 3.5 hours- I’m not a fast walker by Camino standards, but I never thought I’d be thinking of 10 miles as an “easy” walk.    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler

    Logroño

    April 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    I stayed in town for a rest day today. This morning, I was surprised by how sore I was- apart from the one morning that my calves were rocks, I haven’t had a day this sore. It’s let up as the day’s gone on, but not completely.

    This morning, I slept late and then found some breakfast and coffee. Spanish breakfasts tend to be bread-heavy, so usually I settle for some tortilla de patata. They said that they had gluten free bread and could put avocado, salmon, and a fried egg on it. Delicious!

    Then I went to the La Rioja museum, which was very close and free. They have artifacts dating back to prehistoric times, then walk through the Roman Empire, Visigothic times, Moorish occupation, the Reconquest, and briefly make it into the 20th century. It was interesting to see the really early things they found and the complexity of tools and carvings from those times.

    So far Logroño has been delicious. I found a gluten free bakery of sorts. They mostly do jello-type dishes, but also make cookies, some cakes, and some breads. I bought a bolillo and had what was probably the best GF bread I’ve ever eaten! Last night I went out for pinchos, where I found tasty GF croquettes and patatas brava. It’s rare I get to enjoy food like this, so I’m making the rounds again tonight, starting with mushrooms in a butter sauce and grilled squid.

    Tomorrow morning I set off towards Nájera. It’s the longest distance yet, coming in at 29km (18 miles for us Americans). I’m debating if I’ll break it into two bits, but the distribution of decent towns isn’t very conducive to the distances I’m interested in going. More than likely, I’ll see how I’m feeling and let my body decide if I should stop early or not.

    No pictures today, but I’ll leave you with a language lesson. I’ve overhead people asking to pay in restaurants- they say “me cobras?” Which literally translates to “You charge me?”
    Also, outside of my apartment someone left a saying “Que el Camino te traiga aquello que no sabías que buscabas” - “may the camino bring you what you didn’t know you were looking for.”    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    There's snow on those mountains in the distance!
    Crossed from the region of Navarra into La RiojaEbro river- possibly the most famous river in Spain1Laundry dayUsing hiking poles leaves a distinctive tan (burn)GF croquetas- delicious!Patatas bravas- fav Spanish food this tripCod and anchovy mini sandwich

    Day 9: Los Arcos a Logroño

    April 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Despite a terrible mattress, I managed to sleep pretty well last night. Guess my body and mind are getting used to sleeping in a different place with a room full of strangers! Overall though, it was the worst albergue thus far- poor mattresses and not very clean. Didn’t see any bedbugs though, so maybe that’s a plus?

    Today was pretty tough. It started with a sore lower back back/hip area and I quickly developed a tight calf. I ended up walking most of the day with a couple of older ladies from New Zealand. I enjoyed talking with them over the course of a few hours. Another peregrino (Bob from Tulsa- he calls me Kansas) texted periodically to check how I was doing with the muscle aches today. Also ran into a couple of retired doctors from the US, which was a short but encouraging encounter. They said that they’ll be praying for me as I’m on this career and physical journey. I’m grateful for the Camino interactions today.

    Nearing Logroño, I walked by a Camino store. Ended up going inside and buying a new pie of shoes because the insoles only improved things for a day or two. Already, my feet feel happier, though after walking 17 miles, they’re still protesting a bit! I’ve decided to take another rest day tomorrow here and allow my legs some time to recover. It’s crazy, but I’m 20% done!    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    Church in Estella
    Lunchtime- the bodega was closed so no hot coffee!Accomodation for the night1Bonus pic of Riggs that mom texted

    Day 8: Estella a Los Arcos

    April 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    It’s an odd thing, staying in albergues. It kind of feels like summer camp, except the “campers” are 20-70 year olds who all speak different languages and may never meet again. Tonight’s roommates are a young Romanian medical student, a mid-20s French guy who wants to study Japanese cooking, and a probably late-20s American teacher. Next door is a group of South Koreans, one of whom snores quite loudly. That’s another common occurrence- when you’ve got adults sleeping in the same space, there’s always someone snoring. Thankfully, I can sleep through noise pretty well and have some good ear plugs. Showers also feel like camp- there’s a tiny shower cubicle with no guarantee of hot water. Sometimes there’s a private small space next to it to get dressed in, but you have to try to keep your clean clothes dry while changing.

    The last couple of days I’ve been catching up on the Bible plan I’m following this year, The Bible Recap. As I walk everyday and listen to Genesis, Numbers, Leviticus, and Ruth, I think of how God showed his never ending faithfulness. And I think that maybe this time isn’t so much for me to have immediate divine wisdom but to grow my faith more. The walk is early (though I’m close to 20% done!), I still have a long way to go and plenty of time to understand more.

    A couple highlights from the day: I went to the wine fountain, which is put on by a local bodega. It was a bit early for wine, so I didn’t have more than a sip. I saw some beautiful landscapes today, met some guys from the Canary Islands who were impressed by me carrying my pack and doing it solo (and who said to let them know if I’m ever on their island), and had a nice dinner with the current roommates.    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler

    Day 7: Puente de la Reina a Estella

    April 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Let’s talk about smells. I had no idea. The beginning of the Camino passes livestock farms, so there manure from sheep, horses, cows, pigs. Now I’ve passed into more agricultural land, and there’s a smell that somehow reminds me of home. There’s some sort of plant that smells like mothballs or an elderly person’s home. There’s the sweet smell of new flowers in bloom, freshly mowed grass. There’s the familiar but not nice smell of sweaty people and clothing that’s been stuffed into a pack all day. So many smells.

    Now let’s talk about switchbacks. It seems that Spain did not get the message that switchbacks are a great way to go up and down steep hills and mountains. At best, the path wanders some; at worst, it follows the incline of the terrain. My joints are doing pretty well except for when I’m going down, down, down. Then my knees protest a bit!

    The insoles have helped a ton! I felt today like I’m finally hitting my stride. It was still hard to get going this morning, probably taking me 2 miles or so before I started to enjoy myself. But after that, I felt good! Tonight I’m staying in a parochial albergue, which are donation-based. There are 16 of us in the room and we’ve been told there’s a wake-up call at 6:30am (it seems like most people get up at 6a, so that shouldn’t be an issue).    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    Early morning start
    After climbing a steep hill, the train let out here!

    Days 5&6: Pampola a Puente de la Reina

    April 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I walked about 15 miles from Pamplona to the medieval city of Puente de la Reina (Queen’s bridge). After another poor night of sleep, it was a difficult start. It seems like every day, I vacillate between wanting to quit and head home and loving the experience. I’m missing home and my pets, the ease of having a kitchen where I can cook whatever I want without having to worry about how I’ll carry any leftovers the next day, air conditioning, etc. When I walked into Puente, I realized that I’d booked the inn room for the wrong night. The staff were so kind and didn’t charge me for the mistake (possibly helped because I wanted to stay for two nights so I could have a rest day).

    Walking into my tiny room, I was so happy- a double size bed, ceiling fan, private bathroom! The bed is comfy and the pillows are good. I slept 9 hours that night, then the next day did laundry today and took a 3 hour nap. My feet have been hurting quite a bit. In Pamplona, I bought some new insoles with the hope that they’ll help- I forgot to switch out insoles before leaving for the Camino and the current ones are worn out.

    I met a couple of Spaniards while on the Camino. The first night in Puente, they saw me and invited me to join them for a drink. I debated, mostly because I was nervous I wouldn’t understand much, but decided to stay. It ended up being a lot of fun! They were very patient with my Spanish being slower. While I didn’t catch everything they said, I did better than I’d anticipated. Glad I got outside of my comfort zone a bit!    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    11The end of day 4- exhaustion is evident!

    Days 3 & 4: Roncesvalles-Zubiri-Pamplona

    April 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    After the brutal walk to Roncesvalles, yesterday was a nice change. Still some uphill, but not unrelenting as before. But we all know that going down can be just as hard! The rock here is crazy- it literally cuts diagonal, so as you go down, you have to skirt rock edges. That was a tiring end to the longest day I’ve had yet (and the furthest I’ve ever carried a loaded pack- 13.4mi).

    Today was a slightly shorter walk to Pamplona. There was no breakfast or coffee available in Zubiri this morning, so the cafe just over 5 miles in was so welcome! I’m learning to take breaks that last longer than 3 minutes (always pushing to the end without adequate rest along the day is a big struggle for me). I’m still working on slowing down and not feeling like it’s a race with everyone else- this whole walk is about the journey after all! I’ve noticed that my body feels better when I walk a little slower.

    So far only one blister, but it’s making itself a bit of a nuisance. It’s growing, despite my best efforts. Muscles are sore, but not too painful. Finding food is a bit of a pain- I nearly cried when I saw the Greek yogurt and a gluten free section in the grocery store tonight. After eating Spanish food for the last couple weeks, it’s nice to have some variety. Dinner tonight was Burger King- I haven’t had a fast food burger in over a year, and boy did it hit the spot!

    Pamplona is the biggest place I’ve been so far on the Camino. It’s nice to have all of amenities of a city available.

    In an effort to make the walk easier, I mailed a package of some things ahead to pick up at a post office. Hopefully a lighter load tomorrow makes the walk easier. I’d been thinking of staying 2 nights in Pamplona, but the albergue I’m at is full tomorrow.

    I finally felt like being social and have met a lot of people! Tried my little French, kind of had a very basic convo in German. Lots of Aussies, Americans, Germans, Koreans, French, and many others.    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    Bambam when leaving the hostal this morning
    Leaving ValcarlosBasque hay manEarly in the hike- definitely fewer smiles later on!So steep!View from the top15 miles down, 472 to go

    Valcarlos a Orreaga/Roncesvalles

    April 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    I’m glad the Camino started with a good day, because today was a beat down. I got a bit late of a start at just after 9. I knew that it would be a lot of uphill, but I had no idea! I’m not sure the accuracy of this, but I found online that over the course of the 7.5 miles I walked, there was an elevation gain of 3,940 feet with a loss of 2,011 ft. I began using a mantra to keep myself going “poco a poco, paso a paso.” I’d keep my head down, pick a spot a bit up the trail, walk there, stop for a short breather. Repeat ad nauseam. Also, thank God for earbuds and iPhones- I was able to listen to some upbeat music, which helped. And just when I thought the uphill would never end, the trail let out onto a beautiful hilltop (unfortunately, I didn’t stay to enjoy it- nature was calling and it’s not the sort of place to dig a cat hole!)

    Check in to the albergue was easy, though a poor French girl in front of me was denied a bed as she didn’t have her physical passport on her. I bought food tickets for breakfast and dinner, but the assigned restaurant said they couldn’t accommodate celiac. Fortunately the next one I went to said they could, so I got the tickets changed. I’m a little nervous about how well they’ll do, as it’s a small place with probably hundreds of pilgrims. Prayers that they get it right and that my body does ok with the food!

    Only a few pictures today and no video because I was dead. Hoping for a good night’s sleep before a long day tomorrow- less elevation, so it shouldn’t be too bad 🤞    Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    Leaving SJPDP
    Sheep!Feeling goodCrossing into SpainAlmost therePretty place for a snackThanks Juan y Ainara for the chocolateMemorial to the Basques that fought and beat Charlemagne

    First day of Camino: SJPDP to Valcarlos

    April 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    I arrived in St Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP) yesterday with what felt like 100 other pilgrims on a small train. It was a bit overwhelming, but after picking up my credential and getting a spot in a hostel, I was able to get the alone time I needed. Today I walked 8 miles to Valcarlos. It was a tiring and fun day. Many walked an additional 7 miles, so it was an exercise in slowing down for me. The inn host tonight is wonderful, as is her puppy Bambam.Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    Alcazaba in Malaga- built by the MoorsBull ring- only seen from a distanceMezquita in Córdoba. BeatifulDelcioso!The gluten free salad option- tuna wrapped in ham with tomato! Not so good

    Málaga, Córdoba, end of the road trip

    Mar 24–28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We stayed in a lovely Airbnb along one of the beaches off Malaga. We explored Málaga, had a day trip to Córdoba, and then road-tripped through Almería and Alicante to Donostia-San Sebastián. Driving in another country isn’t for the faint of heart!Read more

  • Rachael KSpain y el CaminoTraveler
    1

    Madrid & roadtrippin’

    Mar 22–24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We explored Madrid a bit more, rested from travel, and did a tapas cooking class. It was delicious and I’m excited to try the recipes at home! Then we picked up a rental car and drove 5 hours to Málaga, stopping to see the windmills of Don Quixote fame. The Spanish major in me loved it.Read more

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