Malawi
Northern Region

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    • Day86

      Makuzi Beach Lodge

      October 2, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Wir haben schon wieder den richtigen Riecher gehabt. Traumhafter war eigentlich noch keine Campsite gelegen. Ein krönender Abschluss für den Malawiaee. Morgen geht's erstmal nach Mzuzu. Wir müssen unbedingt unsere Vorräte wieder auffüllen.Read more

      Traveler

      Wie cool das ihr baden könnt👋

      10/2/19Reply
      Traveler

      Mensch schwimmt nicht so weit raus.

      10/3/19Reply
      Traveler

      Ohh mannn, wie geil !

      10/5/19Reply
      Traveler

      Sehe ich richtig 🤔 ein weißer Hai ... Vorsicht

      10/5/19Reply
       
    • Day91

      Nyika Nationalpark

      October 7, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Der Nationalpark befindet sich auf einer riesigen Hochebene. Weniger die Tiere beeindrucken hier sondern vielmehr das Landschaftsbild. Zur Zeit stehen hier die heruntergebranten Wiesen wieder in Blühte.Read more

      Traveler

      Ups 😳

      10/8/19Reply
      Traveler

      Sind das Nadelbäume?

      10/8/19Reply
      Traveler

      Huch🤯und nun?

      10/9/19Reply
      Traveler

      What 🤭

      10/12/19Reply
       
    • Day93

      Manchewe Waterfalls und Cave

      October 9, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      Von der Eco Lodge sind es nur wenige Meter zum höchsten Wasserfall Malawis, den wir uns unter (unfachkundiger) Begleitung der Dorf-Jungs ansehen.

      Danach beginnt die abenteuerliche Abfahrt über den 16km langen Gorodi Pass zurück an den See. Mehr als 90% der Strecke wird im 1ten Gang gefahren. Dafür genießen wir herzliche Ausblicke auf den See.

      Im Chitimba Camp verbringen wir den Rest des Tages. Bei den Kindern am Strand sind wir mal wieder die Attraktion. Sie "posen" und wollen anschließend ihre Bilder in der Digicam sehen.
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      Traveler

      Wow, cool 👍

      10/10/19Reply
      Traveler

      Echt schön 👍

      10/10/19Reply
      Traveler

      Wie niedlich 😊

      10/10/19Reply
      3 more comments
       
    • Day92

      Livingstonia / Lukwe Eco Lodge

      October 8, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Caretaker Matheu hat uns gestern gefragt, ob wir ihn heute ein Stück mitnehmen können. Er hat 6 Tage frei und möchte zu seiner Familie. Normalerweise bedeutet dies einen Fußmarsch von 8-9 Stunden. Wir räumen unsere Rückbank auf und Matheu fühlt sich wohl. Wir setzen ihn nach 5 Std. Fahrt ab und von dort hat er "nur" noch 1,5 Std. zu laufen.

      Livingstonia ist eine alte Missionsstadt mit schöner Kirche und herrlichem Ausblick auf den Lake Malawi. Sonst hat die Stadt allerdings nicht mehr viel zu bieten.

      Unsere Campsite bietet einen ähnlichen schönen Blick auf den See und ist sehr Rustikal und Öko ausgestattet.
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      Traveler

      Das habt ihr gut gemacht,ihr habt ja auch schon Hilfe von Einheimischen bekommen.😀

      10/11/19Reply
      Traveler

      Warum haben die Bäume 🌳 weiße Füße 🦶?

      10/12/19Reply
       
    • Day79

      Livingstonia

      July 24, 2017 in Malawi ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      Great name, for an unusual – you could even say a little odd -- place.
      Up the mountains 15km on a very rocky, potholed road with 21 switchbacks, which took about an hour to drive up and scared the hell out of Christy with sheer drops off the side of the mountain. We picked up 3 travellers at the bottom of the hill (many people walk up) and gave them a ride up to where we were all staying-the wonderfully named Mushroom Farm. Our passengers were 3 young ladies, 2 from Chile and 1 from The Netherlands. The amazing coincidence was Elise, from Holland, had been on our night drive in South Luanga. Another meeting in the middle of nowhere with someone we’d met in a different country, several hundred kilometers away! We got some good information about Chile and are now even more excited to visit, even if it’s still a few months away. We’ve had some great campsites, but this one was spectacular. High up on the plateau we were perched on the edge of the cliff, overlooking the valley and Lake Malawi below.
      Livingstonia, named after the famous Scottish missionary and explorer David Livingstone, looked like a ghost town, but was still a busy place. It was established as a missionary outpost in the 19th century, with a hospital, university and large church. Most of the university buildings are now empty, but the church still has services every week. There’s an old house built of stone, now a museum, that used to house the mission’s doctor and other staff. We walked up about 5km from our camp to look around, and realized this was the longest walk we have done since leaving the US – it sort of hurt, but it was good to stretch our legs a bit.
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      Lucinda Ayers

      What a beautiful spot, though a scary-sounding drive to get there! Were those young women hitch-hiking around Africa?? Now that's adventuresome!

      7/31/17Reply
      Michelle Ortega

      Chica! What are you doing to those poor ladies?

      8/1/17Reply
      Denise Higginbotham

      Whatanawesomecampsite

      8/2/17Reply
       
    • Day87

      Macondo Lodge

      October 3, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Die Macondo Lodge ist coole Kneipe, italienisches Restaurant, Lodge und Campsite zugleich. Hier treffen sich Reisende und Einheimische gleichermaßen. Am Wochenende finden die Malawian Fashion Weeks statt und wir bekommen als Gäste freien Eintritt 😀.Read more

    • Day89

      Rangerwartung

      October 5, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Gestern schon sollte der Ranger neues Öl und neue Filter bekommen. Das klappte aufgrund des falschen Ölfilters nicht. Heute morgen dann ein neuer Versuch.. Leider sprang der Ranger diesmal mit dem gekauften Dieselfilter nicht mehr an. Also musste Jurgen, der sich aber nicht aus der Ruhe bringen lies, wieder los. Nachmittag hat's dann glücklicher Weise sich mit dem Dieselfilter geklappt. Ein neuer Luftfilter war nicht aufzutreiben. Ist aber auch noch nicht nötig, wie Jurgen meinte. Denn der Alte ist noch sauber.Read more

    • Day95

      The warm heart of africa

      October 11, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Malawi ist ein ganz spezielles Land, dass eigentlich alles hat was man sich wünschen kann. Traumhafte Strände am Lake Malawi mit Tauch- und Schnorchelrevieren, großartige Wildlife Parks und eine ganze Reihe an Gebirgen zum Wandern. Hinzu kommen die überall hilfsbereiten, freundlichen und warmherzigen Menschen. Nirgendwo anders hörten wir so oft "welcome to malawi". Nirgendwo anders fühlten wir uns so herzlich aufgenommen.

      Fahrräder sind in Malawi das Transportmittel #1. In Südafrika kaum zu sehen, in Mosambik schon mehr, prägen sie in Malawi ganz entscheidend das Straßenbild. Hier wird fast alles mit Fahrrädern transportiert. Menschen (Fahrradtaxi), Tiere, Lebensmittel, Möbel und natürlich Brennholz. Ansonsten wird das Brennholz von den Frauen auf dem Kopf getragen. Das überwiegend mit Holz gekocht wird kann dem Land auch angesehen werden. Überall werden die Wälder zur Holz- und Holzkohlegewinnung abgeholzt.

      Auffällig ist die hohe Polizeipräsenz auf den größeren Straßen. Wir werden meistens durchgewunken oder es gibt ein nettes Schwätzchen. Korruptionsversuche wie noch in Mosambik kommen nicht vor.

      Campsites gibt es am Lake Malawi noch ausreichend, im Landesinneren werden sie seltener. Die Ausstattung der Plätze ist unterschiedlich, das Engagement der Betreiber jedoch immer sehr groß. Leider ist der Tourismus anscheinend stark rückläufig, obwohl er bestimmt eine wichtige und gute Einnahmequelle für die Bevölkerung ist.

      Uns haben ständige Stromausfälle, teure Lebenshaltung, schlechte Straßen und mangelnde Versorgungsmöglichkeiten das Leben als Tourist erschwert.. Hinzu kommt noch die Visagebühr von satten $75 pro Person für 30 Tage. Trotzdem, wir würden wiederkommen!
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    • Day36

      Chitimba Camp Day 2

      December 30, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      The heat and humidity of the night had given me that feeling that I was trying to breathe under water which made for a difficult night's sleep. I also still had very sharp pains in my foot as I was getting up in the morning from the urchin spine in my ankle. This combination left me feeling very tired and a bit low in mood. I had some breakfast and decided that I wouldn't do the whole village tour I'd planned to do, as it would require a lot of walking on my painful ankle, but instead just visit the local 'witch doctor' which would have been a part of the tour anyway. However, this way I could see the African shaman on my own and find out more about how he practiced. Two young local men, Robert and Steve, took me to see the village healer. They were nice young men and said that they rated their local healer and visited him themselves. He was apparently very ethical in that, if he felt he could heal someone he would, but if it was a condition that he couldn't remedy he would send them to the local hospital. Interestingly, the local hospital would send people to him for healing that they couldn't heal themselves, so there was a nice reciprocity of traditional and western medicine. I talked to Robert and Steve along our walk to see the shaman to find out more about their lives. Robert had been studying a mechanical engineering degree but his sponsor for his fees died suddenly and he had to end his studies - this showed the precarious nature of young people's education in East Africa. Steve was studying to be a midwife and a nurse and carved wooden sculptures (as many local people do in Chitimba) in the holidays to help supplement his fees for studying. Malawi children do get free primary school education learning their tribal language (6 in Malawi), the common national language, and English. However, they have to pay for secondary education which many cannot afford.
      After a 15 minute walk through the village and along a main road, we turned off to a few traditional mud brick houses where the shaman practiced. I was met by many young children who took my hand and sat down all around me, touching the hair on my arms and legs, my rucksack, clothes and seemed completely fascinated by my differences to what they would normally experience. The shaman was preparing himself in his hut and eventually gave the signal for me to come in. I entered a small room with three stools for me, Steve and Robert to sit on and one stool for the shaman. Steve and Robert did some drumming and the shaman came in with a reddish brown, short sleeved tunic, with red stitched crosses on it, and a big wide belt made of metal bell shaped vessels which clattered together as he moved. He began dancing in front of me and making an occasional strong guttural noise with a strong out breath. The local children and a couple of adults came in and sat in the room, watching on in fascination. He then beckoned me to dance with him which I did in front of an audience of respectful locals - he seemed gratified by my participation. Steve and Robert explained to me what was happening and what to do next and served as translators because the shaman never went to school and didn't speak English. His father was the medicine man before him, as is the traditional lineage, and taught him local plant medicine from a young age. The young shaman then danced around me in one circle and pushed a white painted stick he was carrying against my chest for several seconds. I learned from him that he did this procedure to feel my energy and discover any sickness or illness in my body. The shaman had lost his father at the age of about 16 years and had gone into the wild mountains of Livingstonia for several months, dreaming of his father, who taught him, through his dreams, to gather medicinal plants which he later brought back to the village for healing. As I asked questions through my friendly translators, the shaman explained that as he walked around me, the spirit of his father helped him sense the area of the my body that needed healing. He also said that he mainly used local plants and roots which he ground together in powders for different healing properties. Then he pointed his stick at the exact point on my ankle where I had been experiencing the pain of the urchin. spine, which was impressive. He shook my hand steadily for several seconds and said that I had 'good blood flow' which indicated that I was otherwise in good health. I then showed him my own nature ritual wheel and explained to him through my translators, how I use it to more deeply connect with my local trees, animals and plants. He nodded in approval and was pleased to receive the wheel as a gift which he took to the back of his hut where he kept his shamanic tools and bag with remedies in. We had a warm handshake goodbye with good eye contact and it felt like a we'd made a good connection. As I walked back to the campsite with Robert and Steve, they said that the shaman had been very pleased with my questions and interest in his practice. They said that he often had people staying in a few huts nearby for more extended healing like a shamanic hospital. We returned to the campsite through Steve and Robert's old school grounds. They knew everyone locally that we passed as this is clearly a small and tight knit community. I visited Steve's stall outside the campsite and bought a couple of small wood carvings to donate a small amount towards his college fees.
      I had some lunch in the campsite bar and then walked down through the sand to the lake shore. I sat on the side of a wooden boat and looked up at the wild, forested mountain of Livingstonia where hyena, antelope and other wild animals still roam. Further along the beach women were washing clothes in the lake, and further on still, men were drying sardines on extensive wooden drying racks. Fishermen canoed and fished along the lake. Orange dragonflies flew around me and hundreds of white butterflies flew around the trees. I watched a brown heron like bird work it's way along the shore. I reflected on my experience with the African witch doctor and imagined the spirit of his father flying with the Eagle I saw soaring towards the sheer red rock face of mount Livingstonia,
      When I went to collect my wood carved souvenirs there was a mistake with one of them which took time to carve again. As I waited, I talked to a couple of the young men wood carvers who talked about their difficulty with selling their wares and making enough money to fund their education and look after their families. One man talked about how the local mountain is having its trees cut down to make charcoal for money thereby driving the wild animals away. There are such complex issues at work here, where people understandably want to find education and work to better their conditions, but also aspire to western style consumerism that will destroy their environment. There are no easy answers to this complex problem.
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    • Day37

      Chitimba to Kande Beach - New Year's Eve

      December 31, 2019 in Malawi ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      I had a slow build up of tiredness through the longterm camping experience that started causing me to do clumsy things like flood my tent by tipping over a water bottle. I also woke up with my tent filled with tiny insects again and had to brush them out before I packed up my tent. The insect populations are very dense by lake Malawi with dozens of bees buzzing around the honey on my breakfast pancakes, ants everywhere and large moths of all possible varieties sheltering on available surfaces. As we left the campsite, waving goodbye to the children who ran after the truck, we headed up into the hills and saw the huge plumes of lake flies rising like living smoke, in their billions, above the sunlit lake.
      We had fantastic views across the forested hills as we climbed. We passed small villages and towns with vibrant markets which are always a riot of colour and activity. We stopped by a shopping mall in a local town to buy lunch and some fancy dress clothes for the New Year's celebrations that evening. The clothes were arrayed on nearby stalls and sold by funny and characterful young men which made it a fun experience. We headed on through more green hills and a large rubber plantation where young boys were selling large balls made of rubber bands. We arrived on the shores of Lake Malawi who's extensive coastline we had been following for the entire journey, and found ourselves in a beautiful campsite, Kande Beach Resort, on a long golden beach with a small island just off shore. Lake Malawi has the 4th largest volume of any fresh water lake in the world and is over 700 metres deep at its deepest. It is fed by many rivers and over spills at one end to help form the great Zambezi river that we will witness spectacularly at Victoria falls. I booked a single cabin at the campsite with a view onto the beach which would be a welcome relief from the miserable camping experience the previous night. As I settled in to my bamboo wood and tin rooved cabin, a large rainstorm passed over beating a heavy and persistent rhythm with large rain drops on the roof. After the storm, I walked out onto the beach to take in a lovely golden sunset over the deep blue far hills with the stormy clouds providing an impressive backdrop.
      Next it was time to begin the New Year's Eve celebrations with my fellow travellers and welcome in a new decade. We had a nice meal, involving a hog roast, which I passed on in favour of some vegetarian sausages, roasted cabbage, vegetables garlic bread. Punch was made and everyone got drunk very quickly on that. Drunken games were played with much hilarity, until we walked over to the campsite bar to wait and see in the New Year. As midnight struck, fireworks were set off into the dark skies from the sand as distant pink lightning lit up the horizon, reflecting in Lake Malawi's calm waters. As is usual, everyone hugged everyone including local people who had joined the party. I had some funny banter with local young men who follow Premier League football. The celebrations continued until the early hours until I retired to bed to face the inevitable hangover the following day.
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