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  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 23

    Taj Mahal, Agra

    December 8, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Wake before sunrise to head to Taj Mahal. Touts waiting outside building saying we had to buy tickets at the building they were standing in front. Us and other tourists didn’t trust them so walked to the entrance of Taj Mahal thinking the true booking office would be there. No desk there, just a line with ppl who already booked tix. Asked them where booking office is - where the touts were. Bought tix, got water bottles and shoe covers with tix. Taj Mahal was beautiful. Cleanest place we’ve seen in India. Walked back to cc Yoga House and got cash on the way back. Will have brekky at guesthouse thinking it would be convenient. Got there, host just woke up, told us to just text him on WhatsApp when we’re ready to order from their menu. Messaged him shortly after for 2 omelettes and 2 masala chai - he replied to confirm he received the order. At 30 mins still no food. At the 45 min mark, saw a guy with groceries in his hand going into the kitchen. Texted host to ask how our food was going as it’s almost been 1 hr and just saw a guy with groceries, hoping that wasn’t our food. Guest from Malaysia came up with pack and sat with us. No reply from host - he came up, didn’t acknowledge us and went into the kitchen to help that guy with the groceries. Came out with our tea at 1 hr mark and said our food is coming, reminded him it’s been over an hour since we ordered. He didn’t apologise and instead explained how the Malaysian guy missed his train this morning and had to help him so that’s why our food is late. We said it’s not his fault and that he could’ve simply told us that our food would’ve been delayed and we wouldn’t have had an issue. He again tried to explain the guy missed his train and that if he didn’t miss his train our food would’ve been on time.. he had to arrange a private taxi for him to get to airport. Reminded him it is not this guest’s fault and he reluctantly said sorry and went back to help the guy in the kitchen. Guest from Malaysia had been in Agra for 5 days only to see Taj Mahal and Red Fort as he would like to see the 7 Wonders of the world. He is now taking a private taxi (run by host’s friend) to the airport. Finished brekky and went into our room to plan how we will get to New Delhi tmrw and to discuss where we would like to go from there. Early train available from Agra to New Delhi tmrw, early morning or midday. Reassessed countries we can fly to from New Dehli - shortlisted Philippines and UK. Decided we will go to the Philippines, mainly due to time of year and type of travel we would like to do this time around. Got help from host to book train tix to new dehli - comfort class, leaving 5:50am tmrw. Host says this train is always on time as it is a commuter train and starts it’s journey in Agra. Went back to room booked flights - no flights from New Delhi to Manila, have to fly from Bangkok to get to Manila. Will need to stay one night in Bangkok. Booked 1 night at an apartment style guesthouse by international airport. Tomorrow will be a traveling day. Rested until lunchtime. Went to Bedweiser Backpackers hostel for lunch - egg biryani to share + 1 coke. Asked staff how much tuk tuk would be to Red Fort, told us it would be 150 INR and they were about to tell us about a private taxi but we stopped them and told them that made no sense when a tuk tuk to the train station which is a lot further only cost us 100 INR. Said goodbye and walked towards Red Fort to catch a tuk tuk on the way. Caught one for 70 INR. Went to Red Fort but it was PACKED so didn’t go in, appreciated it from the outside. Tuktuk back for 70 INR. Dropped off at Moustache Agra and walked back to guesthouse. M stopped to chat with men he saw fixing a motorbike - they were very intrigued and impressed he knew what repair they were doing and what they needed to do. Chilled at guesthouse until dinner time. Z calls Zeni - had a lovely chat, showing her our room in Agra and a video of rats we saw on the train tracks yesterday. Found out her surgery will take place on Thursday morning - will try to Skype her beforehand. Went out for dinner at Bambino Cafe. Great service and genuine host. Special Thali to share, Coke and plain lassi. Really struggling to breathe through pollution in Agra today, both of us have had headaches almost the whole day. Went back to guesthouse to get an early night - settled our accomodation fees at guesthouse, we’ll get up early tomorrow.Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 22

    Goodbye Orcha, Hello Agra

    December 7, 2019 in India ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Woke early, packed bags and brought downstairs (stored in staff room while we go out) and paid for accommodation. Went to see temple on hill, doors closed, too early. Went to first temple - beautiful and barely anyone around! Many narrow stairs that open up to massive rooms/paths. Walked to No-Mads for breakfast, mixed veg paratha brekky x2 - great chat w Udeshya. Got leftovers for takeaway snacks on train journey later. Went to fort to get ticket giving us access to all other temples. Explored fort. Construction going on outside but inside the architecture was beautiful inside. It was a shame however because there was rubbish everywhere, plastic wrappers, tobacco spit, people carving their names on this historic building, paintings poorly preserved. Next went to temple near guesthouse. Had two young boys who approached us asking for selfies, but we could see they were obviously touts so said no. They seemed to report to a guy pretending to be an attendant of the temple, and sent these boys to us again to give it another try and so they kept following us and repeatedly asked for selfies. When we refused and walked away, the boss told us we had to take off our shoes as it was a temple (no one else had shoes off). At this point we were no longer able to enjoy this temple without being followed by these two boys so decided to head out. On the way out, the boss ran after us and told us never mind about the shoes cause we can explore upstairs where we didn’t need to remove them for that. Said we had to pay to get up there - told him that was bullshit as the ticket we bought allowed for unlimited access to all temples in town. He grabbed hold of our ticket and said “okay okay okay” and ripped off a corner pretending he was allowing us to proceed. We said forget it and walked out. He sent the two boys to follow us down the stairs to ask for selfies again, told these boys to leave us alone. As we walked down, a vendor saw what was happening and yelled at these boys to stop bothering us. Told us to let him know if this happens again and he would call the tourist police for us. Now disheartened with this experience, we reluctantly visited the closed temple we visited this morning. Barely anyone there. Not as grand as the fort but underlying architecture was beautiful- again rubbish, spit and carvings everywhere, very poorly kept. Headed back to guesthouse to book our guesthouse in Agra and wait for our tuktuk to arrive at 1:30pm. Guesthouse booked at cc YOGA Homestay in Agra as well be arriving late. Tuktuk to Jhansi train station 250INR. 3pm train delayed 2 hrs. Got on 2S class, we had reserved seats for this 5 hour journey. More ppl arrive on train w unreserved seats so they jussi stand where they can - gets packed, people sitting on tables and overhead baggage compartment. 3hrs into journey hear a man behind us asking something and getting denied/ignored, makes his way to us where people are sat on a table in front of us. Man asks ppl on table if he could please rest his toddler child on the table so he can sleep. People just stare at him and ignore him. M&Z shocked at the lack of empathy..He starts to walk back and M gets up to give seat but ppl weren’t moving - when we started calling for him to come back he had just put his toddler son on overhead baggage compartment. Managed to call him over, M gave his seat, man very thankful. Ppl start praising Marty and one man shakes his hand and says loudly “you’re a good man”. M tells him not to call him a good man because this is simply what you should do for your fellow ppl, he tells them anyone could have done it, starts pointing and says “you could’ve given their seat, those ladies on the table could’ve done it, you all could’ve done it and been a good person but you chose not to do it”. Ppl now wanting to talk to Marty and shake his hand. Father very thankful, 3yo boy very tired. Arrived in Agra, got tuktuk to moustache Agra and walked to cc Yoga Guesthouse. Host was not there and paper saying to call him on WhatsApp. Called on WhatsApp, couldn’t hear so hung up & texted. Host says he is at wedding and will be back in 30mins, Z&M can enter their room. Man not there (didn’t message) so went to bed. Will spend one day tmrw then leave the next morning.Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 21

    Orchha... "Mini Hampi"

    December 6, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Pack, meet Tom & checkout at lobby of Moustache Khajuraho at 8:30am. Tom tries to arrange his transport/train from Orchha to Mumbai as he fears Orchha might be too small a town to arrange this from. Was not a quick task - junior staff gave him run around trying to get Tom to do a private taxi hire. Tom was meant to have brekky W us but stayed back to sort - will meet him at bus station for 9:30am. M&Z get brekky at Gura Kripa again - Aloo and paneer paratha...big serves, got rest for takeaway and lunch for journey to Orchha... will share W. Tom in case didn't have time for brekky. Walked to bus station and met Tom. He explains he relucantly had to pay 4000 INR for moustache staff to arrange his transport from Orchha to Mumbai and believes he's been scammed but felt he had to take a risk cause not sure how small Orchha is and has to be in Mumbai 2 days from now. He will meet his gf there and they will go back to the UK for christmas then onwards to South Africa. Got on bus - pay onboard 50INR ea and + 50 INR for our 3 backpacks to take us to Chhatarpur. Drop off - man takes M’s bag down and takes it straight to bus instead of handing to M... Man was trying to be helpful but almost lost M's bag because of this as we JUST caught bus to Jhansi as it was driving away. 150 INR each. Very dusty journey and felt pollution/smog getting to us. Dropped off at Orchha turn off, man asks for additional 50 INR ea for luggage last minute, Tom tells him to F off as it was clearly an afterthought. Man wanted to argue but his bus started driving away so he had to get back on. Tuktuk to Orchha 100INR for 3 but shared with 3 other adults (domestic tourists) and one child. Orchha looked very much like Khajuraho except it had a beautiful fort and temples. Checked in at Hotel Sunset. Such a lovely host who is studying tourism (has exam tmrw). We all meet Guillome (Fr France) and Anisha (Uzbekistan) who were already staying at the hostel and headed out to explore. Lovely couple.Tom will scout out a homestay and decide where he would like to stay. Add him on FB so we can meet up for dinner. M&Z settle in and decide will stay only one night so research transport to Agra. Train available early afternoon tomorrow so plan to check out temples and fort tmrw. Ready for dinner and hear Tom’s voice - he’s decided to stay at hotel sunset also tonight. Head out for dinner W Tom to No-Mads Cafe recommended by host. Touts still similar to Khajuraho, more children and teenagers that talk to you as if they're genuinely interested in your company but then show their true intentions after you’ve invested some time in them. If you look at a toddler, they will suddenly stop playing, run to you with hand out saying "chocolate?" And follow you around. Saw a tractor towing a tray full of ppl arriving at a wedding venue - they were all so smiley and amused that we were so intrigued by this. Walk further and a girl says hello and Z & Tom chat to her... She then told us to have a look at her shop, so we amused her and went. She grabbed a bracelet and grabbed Z's arm to tie it around, Z pulling away and saying no thank you. Girl insisting she doesn't want money and that it is a “free gift” and insisted on giving Tom one too. Once bracelets on Tom & Z , she quickly revealed that it is a free gift but we "have to come to [her] shop after dinner". Walked away and found No-mads. Met Udeshya, the lovely cafe owner. Learnt he grew up just east of Varanasi, went to Uni in Varanasi, worked finance in New Dehli, quit his job to travel India on his motorbike and to start a small business in a small town like Orchha. His cafe is new and has only been open for 14 days. Had Thali, coke and lassi to share. Best Thali we've had in India so far. Tom brought his deck of cards - played 2 rounds of cambio. Tom had to be somewhere to sort his transport to Mumbai by 7:30. Head out, and on way back to hostel, separate from Tom as heard ceremony host told us about at temple. Had a look and enjoyed for a bit. Headed back to hostel to chill. M&Z discussed that if Orchha is a snippet of what we would expect out of Hampi (which many travellers we met along the way and had been to both have told us), we would much rather spend the rest of our 4 weeks where we can find some nature, get fresh air, and experience the country's culture through meaningful interactions with locals without having to fight for it. Brainstormed countries we might like to visit... Looked on Skyscanner for places we can fly out to from New Delhi at a low price. We will spend 1 night in Agra, and reassess. Heard Tom back at guesthouse, chat W him for a while. Booked 3:30pm train with help of host to go from Jhansi -> Agra tmrw (2S class) and a private tuktuk from hostel to Jhansi (250INR) at 1:30pm tmrw. Guillome and Anisha arrive back at hostel and we all play Cambio until the end of the night. Early night for everyone - G&A leaving in morning for Khajuraho, T leaves in evening for Mumbai, we leave on train tomorrow afternoon so will get up early to explore Orchha.Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 20

    Khajuraho Sutra

    December 5, 2019 in India ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Arrived at Khajuraho train station at 5 am. Tom booked in at Moustache Khajuraho, a guesthouse Z had shortlisted. Tuk tuk to Moustache w Tom, Sasha and Johnny 100INR. Sasha and Johnny decide they don’t want to stay at moustache..stay in tuk tuk to go to city centre. Staff member greets us and asks M&Z “what [we] want” and disregards Tom as he knew he had a booking. Told man to tend to Tom first and we’d have a chat w him afterwards. Had to insist on this a few times. Tom checked in and M&Z negotiate room that is available for 2 nights if needed as we are thinking of staying two nights but we are still not sure. 650 INR per night. Man tells us we can take brekky at their rooftop restaurant, has tours available etc. Told him we will take a rest and might see him for tea at the restaurant later. Settle in and told each other would nap for half hour... slept in until 9am. Resto for masala tea, no brekky - didn’t feel the vibe, not really a resto, man (staff) keeps trying to sell us on tours, says seeing one of the temples is “complimentary “ as if it came with the stay at their guesthouse. Gloated to other guest (Alex from Italy) that he read that we like hiking from our gear (boots, pants and fleeces) and explained that’s why he keeps trying to sell the tiger reserve tour and hiking tour to us. Not impressed with his manner of approaching us, no genuine interaction and all about non stop selling. Finished our tea and left. Saw free temples (2), had brekky at Guru Kripa Pure Veg Restaurant - Aloo Paratha x2 & masala tea. Then headed to UNESCO World Heritage Site (Western group of temples) - birthplace of karma sutra. Beautiful, ornate, detailed, well kept and well preserved archeological site. Z hungry and belly still sensitive so had western lunch - Margherita pizza. Tried to find a travel agent to enquire about trains to Orchha and booking train tix. Only one helpful agent, the rest kept dodging giving us train ticket pricing and instead tried to push for a private taxi hire to Orchha. Walked out on these shops, unhelpful and could not get anywhere with them. Went back to guesthouse for rest, Zinia’s belly still unwell. Touts are different in this town - very deceiving, disingenuous, annoyingly persistent (don’t respect you when you say no thank you like the touts in Varanasi) and more kids begging and ones that follow you a long way. Had to tell off one child that followed us almost all the way back to our guesthouse despite saying no and ignoring him for a long time. While resting, we decided we want to move on to Orchha tmrw so will stay only 1 night. Checked trains to Orchha and availability- train available midday tmrw. M chatted w man to help book train tix, tried to say this train wasn’t available when he realised we didn’t want to stay for 2 nights. Offered a private driver at an expensive rate. He did accidentally mention a tourist quota for train tix that get released at 6pm so M will check again later. Z feeling better, time for dinner. Will speak now with staff about tourist quota for train and confirm we are staying only one night. Man was very unclear about tourist quota and tried to say there was no tourist quota. Man was trying to say we had told him we would stay 2 nights and he agreed for us to stay in our room for 1300 for 2 nights. Argued this with him and he said “okay fine, I will give you 45 mins to decide if you want to stay 1 or 2 nights”. Z says “45 mins? How about we make it easier and decide now. We are staying one night only.” Heard Tom outside the room and chatted for a while - he too has had same experience with touts and locals and is planning on leaving to Orchha tmrw. Will leave with Tom tmrw and will discuss over dinner. Went to Guru Kripa again for dinner with Tom, met Naresh - lovely host keen to practice his English and to chat about cricket with Tom. Naresh asked if we could keep in contact with him to practice his English and so we can practice our Hindi. Added Tom and Z on WhatsApp. Headed back to guesthouse, got there and saw a group of guys with rifles out the front and started walking away as we walked closer. Went to rooftop and played cards with Tom’s Karma Sutra deck he bought today. President, then Tom taught us “Cambio” game. Talked about transport to Orchha tmrw, Tom mentioned bus to Chhatarpur then transfer bus to Orchha which leaves in the morning. Will do this tmrw instead of train. Meet at lobby tmrw for 8:30am.Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 19

    Leaving Varanasi

    December 4, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Z wakes at 5:30am with upset belly. Gastro from Johnny who we found out was sick the day before. Marty up at 8am and made up rehydration salt drink for Z to sip and more sleep. Marty up and gets breakfast at 9am (curry & puri & chai 125, water 20, butter toast 30) at rooftop. Brought Z butter toast and Jalebi that Kailash brought for us to try. Check out at 11am but Shiva says Z can rest in room til 12pm and then rest in dorm room thereafter. M goes out to get a shave - asking 50, gave 30 INR tip. M withdraws more cash, had to go to 3 diff atms - first two would not allow transaction of 10,000+ INR. Z well rested now, and although still unwell, feeling way better than this morning & packed bag for checkout at 12pm. M back at Shiva guesthouse and pack his bag, take downstairs, settle bill and let Z rest more. Go up to rooftop for fresh air, saw that Johnny and Sasha were still in Varanasi and had not left on a train last night like they had planned - now taking same sleeper train as us to Khujaraho at 5:40pm. Z hungry - more butter and honey toast to share. Chill at rooftop - Z now has more energy, leave bags at Shiva and go out for lunch at Monalisa cafe - egg biryani to share, coke and sprite. As we were finishing, Frank joined our table again and chatted for a bit but we left shortly after. Bought bread rolls from brown bread cafe to take with us on train. Head back to Shiva and picked up shower gel from smiley lady at corner shop. Grab takeaway from Shiva - egg biryani and cheese and tomato toasted sandwich to take on train. Met Johnny and Sasha at lobby at 3pm, walked to main road and roundabout ask J&S wanted to take an Uber to Varanasi Junction. Said goodbye to local friends we made along the way (Kopal & Ayush at travel agency, other people who recognisedus and shared smiles and "good mornings" with us). Could not see Uber anywhere on busy roundabout, so just caught a tuktuk 150INR for all 4 of us. Got to train station, trying to find carriage B3, found all the way at other end of platform. Met Regina from Mexico and Tom from England. M&Z having a good chat with Regina and was interrupted by tout from Khujaraho travelling with a German girl (G girl had previously travelled to Khujaraho, met this tout who took her for a “trip” around khujaraho and kept in contact. She did not like Varanasi so called him to pick her up and accompany her to khujaraho..silly girl). Tout bashing and saying how much he hates Varanasi, saying how all people are all cheaters in Varanasi because they talk to you but all they want is your money. In the end he explained he had a tuktuk and he can take us around if he wanted 🤣, he got rejected very quickly and he quickly realisd game would not work on us so left W girl. Z feeling weak again, fell asleep on Marty’s lap, M had a great chat with Regina. M made Z's bed and his, everyone heads to bed. Tomorrow we wake in Khujaraho.Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 18

    Third Day in Varanasi

    December 3, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Sleep in this morning. Ate at Aadha Aadha cafe with French and Indian owner. Omelet with toppings with toasted bread and dirty chai for both of us - 400 INR. Walked to main street to find a tuktuk to take us to Baranas Hindu University - 100 INR. University not as well kept as what we expected - lecture rooms very old with chalk board. Got chatting to a student who wanted to practice English and learn more about Australia - he took a unit in geography and studied Australia, PhD in mathematics doing modelling for food systems. Looked at library and temple on campus. So many beggars by the temple, using children. Got rickshaw to monkey temple (Durga Temple). Bargained for 80 INR and got our price because other tuktuk and rickshaw drivers approached its while bargaining. Enjoyed temple from outside - had to take off shoes to enter and lots of beggars outside temple - didn't want to lose hiking boots! Walked to Assi Ghat then back to alleyways near main Ghat to find a place for lunch. Went to Mona Lisa cafe - chicken biryani, garlic naan and plain sweet lassi. Busy cafe and met Frank who joined our table. He's from Armadale NSW, recognised us and remembered we are Canadian and Australian because had seen and heard us chatting with locals yesterday, he travels to India often since his 30s (now 60s) and is relearning Hindi. Ordered latte to share and an apple crumble. Lunch 400 INR total. Went out for a stroll towards northern burning ghat then walked back to guesthouse for a chill. Went to enjoy the views at our favourite spot in Varanasi, the rooftop of Shiva guesthouse. Then to Ginger Cafe (Shiva guesthouse rooftop resto) to enjoy a masala tea. Chatted with Shiva and Roddi. Shiva says Kailash had brought Jalebi for us to try this morning but we weren't there - will bring again tomorrow morning. Special Thali to share for dinner: jeera rice, dal, butter paneer masala, veg curry with bonus paneer (courtesy of Shiva), paratha, and plain lassi. Got 1L water to go. Total 360 INR. Chill in room for rest of night. Early night.Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 17

    Second day in Varanasi

    December 2, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Great nights sleep for both zinia and I. M awake at 6:30 and Z sleeps in until 7:30. Up and ready to leave Babu guest house by 8:30. Check out and pay for Babu (1200rupee) and head over to our new guest house Shiva. Heap up to restaurant on roof of Shiva and have breakfast - veg curry and puri and masala tea (125r ea). Check in to our new room after breakfast then head to cafe and have a coffee while waiting for travel agents to open. At 11 walk to check prices from different travel agents for sleeper train to Khajuraho. Purchase 3A sleep tickets (875r ea). Walk out of main Ghat area and walk streets north while negotiating with tuk tuk drivers for a ride to Sarnath. End up in tuk tuk with two young guys and have a crazy drive to Sanath temple (250r - 50tip). Experienced our first Indian traffic - people intrigued by us and wanted to talk to us. Made friends with police officer directing traffic, guy on scooter next to us. Walk around sarnath and see ruins and temple. Get street food snack/late lunch - egg roll and noodle curry puff (45r - 5tip). Negotiate tuk tuk back to main Ghat (250r). Walk Main Street back to guest house, stop for a dosa (50r) buy toothpaste (10r) on the way and also a chat with the travel agent and his friends. Chill at guest house.Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 16

    First Full Day in Varanasi

    December 1, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Wake early for sunrise at “Ganga” (Ganges). Z wakes at 5:10 to turn hot water on for shower. M wakes 5:30, shower then out the shop side door by 6:15am. Walk out to main ghat, locals and one foreigner bathing in Ganges. Many touts asking if we want boat ride, not too pushy and respectful if you politely say “no thank you”. Walked along river passing many ghats. Some touts asking if Z is Japanese or Vietnamese. M&Z sit on ghat to take in beauty and people watch. Local man bathing w his family taking photos of his family bathing in river, intrigued by us just enjoying views and starts taking photo of us. Man urges wife to sit next to Z and took photo, man wanted to take photo of Z and his wife. Invited man to sit w Z and his wife for a photo. Breakfast at Spicey Bites and meet Nepalese staff member. Only place open for breakfast. Had toast, egg, roti pancake w cheese, roti pancake with Nutella and ginger lemon tea. 250 INR ea set. Walked around to find Another guesthouse for next 2 nights. Found Shiva Guesthouse and meet Kailash. Showed us fancy room and asking 2000 INR online, giving us 1500. Bargained low at 750INR, given a no. Got to know him more and found out about his rooftop restaurant. Said we will check out and probably have a coffee. Chatted more and Kailash agreed to give us room for 1000 INR but explained nice room is only available at that price for 1 night. He said if we wait 2-3 hrs, he can show us 2 other rooms that have a nice view of Ganga and he will also give to us for 1000 if we like. Took coffee at rooftop restaurant and met brother Shiva. Z had headache so rest at guesthouse 30 mins. Walked to popular Blue Lassi - papaya banana lassi for Z, coffee banana lassi for M - 160 INR. While eating lassis, saw a few families taking deceased to burning Ghat nearby. Ornate and colourful decorations on the dead. Walked to burning Ghat after lassi. Beautiful ceremony - families wash body with decorations in Ganga, then taken back up to Ghat for cremation ceremony. Beautiful. Walked to more Ghats to the south, see 2 boats being repaired. Walked back
    to Shiva guesthouse to see other rooms. Not as nice as first room. Kailash explained that if we prefer the nicer room, he can make the room available for 2 nights (not just 1) and we can pay only 1000 INR - he says he believes we are good people and are nice. He said most tourists don't talk to him and just bargain rudely. Lunch at Shiva rooftop restaurant. First indian dish - plain Thali to share. Learn that children in Varanasi love to fly kites. Go to Top of building & such a beautiful sight - so many kites in the sky from rooftops!! Children playing game where they cut each other's kites down. If they cut one down, they run to collect it and it becomes theirs! Such skill with only one string on each kite. Walked out to closest Ghat, walked South and found another burning ghat, stayed longer to see a full ceremony. Walked further to Assi Ghat then back north to go back to Babu guesthouse. Rest until 1745h then headed to main Ghat to watch Aarti ceremony (prayer to the Ganges). Sat with locals for ceremony. Stayed an hour but left early before crowd - walked through alleyways and found restaurant for dinner. First full authentic Indian dinner - butter chicken (block chicken 😂) with garlic naan and rice, plain lassi 480 INR. M tired, walked back to guesthouse for early night. Set up mosquito net and bed at 2030h.    Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    Day 15

    Leaving Sukhothai

    November 30, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Zinia up at 5:30 and Marty 6am and ready to leave guesthouse at 6:30am. Walk to Sukhothai bus station and catch songtheaw to airport (18TBH each). See the monks pig walking around the streets on the way. Eat our 7/11 breakfast in back of songtheaw on way to airport. Arrive at airport for 8am and check into flight to Bangkok - small and fancy airport that looks like a safari resort (there are zebras and giraffes next to the terminal). Free food at terminal including sticky rice and banana chips. Board plane and depart for Bangkok at 9am (1hr flight) small and empty plane. 2hr layover at Bangkok. Get 1500 Indian rupee from money exchange. 2pm flight from Bangkok to Varanasi (4hr flight). Arrived Varanasi airport and got visa. Sun about to set by the time we got out of the airport so decide to take taxi to town instead of local bus to save time. 500 rupee for taxi and meet Achintya from Deli in taxi who is visiting Varanasi for his cousins wedding. Lovely guy who give us some local tips and helps us get a tuk tuk into central Varanasi (roads are closed from 2km out due to festival). Crazy tuk tuk ride through back alleys to Dashashwamedh Ghat. Walk to Ghat and see the Ganges for the first time and catch aarti then find parallel alley with some guest houses. Find a guest house that looks nice (Babu guest house owned by Santos) and check out the rooms to negotiate a price (double room for 600 rupee ($12). Check in and meet Santos daughter (Joyti) and his wife (Rita) and chat with them for a while before heading back to walk the along the Ganges. Stumble across Brown Bread cafe while walking home and head up to rooftop for dinner. Chat with the guys playing music and other travellers before heading home and into bed around 11pm.Read more

  • Thailand & India 2019
    1
    Day 14

    Sukhothai Adventures

    November 29, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Early start today to beat tourist rush in old city. Got keys forrental scooter and left guesthouse at 6AM. Market near old city entrance - got our light brekky, waffles w. raisins. Bicycle hire vendor across entrance 30THB ea, Park entrance for 2 ppl + scooter 210 THB. Beautiful ruins! Tour groups began arriving just as we were leaving. Went back to new city for coffee and wifi - blog, more research on Varanasi & things to see near Sukhothai. Decided we would go see Si Satchanalai Historical Park in the north then to Chao Ram Cave in the west to see bats flying out of the cave at sunset. But first got an hr massage with our girls at the temple, Pi Tew (Z's masseuse) and Pi unknown (M's) & said goodbyes. Headed to ruins at historical park, stopped for lunch by a treehouse - met resto keeper who spoke Dutch, no English (met a few ppl in Sukhothai that are trilingual - French and Spanish) - got bonus egg with ka paow moo krop for ordering completely in Thai. Lovely lady. Got to ruins and kept visit short to get to cave on time. 1.5-2hr ride to cave. Road now getting rural and needed fuel - stopped at a family petrol station, petrol from glass bottle and tube. Was told to hurry to catch bats, M goes faster on scooter. Journey to cave was beautiful! Arrived JUST IN TIME for sunset and saw bats flying out of cave. Spectacular!! Rode out of cave park in dark - so many bugs hitting our faces on the ride out of the park !! 😂 Street food for dinner, one last smoothie from our favourite vendors "Ma & Pa". Ma's surprise choice of fruits, refreshing! Breakfast snack pick up at 711 then home. Paid Jim 2 night stay and scooter hire 1050THB. Waking early tmrw to catch 8:50am flight to Bangkok.Read more

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