Mexico
Coyoacán Borough

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    • Day 11

      Coyoacan

      December 25, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Our second Uber driver also got lost - this time with a great result passing by a musical instrument market by the roadside. Mitch was beside himself and our driver kindly agreed to stop so Mitch could have a look at the second-hand guitars. He didn’t buy any but was in heaven just looking.

      Then onwards to the colonial town of Coyoacan - previously the external capital of Spain following its colonisation.

      Charming and busy - the central plaza which boasts a public garden teeming with families enjoying the Christmas Day sunshine.

      We were hungry and wanted to eat sitting down- the only restaurant that fit the brief (in a town surrounded by street-food carts) was an Italian place.

      After lunch we wandered the square and explored the local artisanal market before heading back to Mexico City.

      It’s our last night here - a very early start tomorrow to head to the airport to start our Cuban adventure.
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    • Day 4

      15‘000 Schritte und zwei Tolle Viertel

      November 4, 2021 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Chilango statt Condesa.
      Das war das erste Ziel nach einem standardgemässen Kaffe im Starbucks (musste einfach einmal sein😄☕️) haben wir uns auf den Weg zum bekannten Street-Art Viertel gemacht. Es soll für seine unglaublich schönen Graffitis von berühmten, mexikanischen Künstlern bekannt sein. Leider sind diese tollen Gemälde ohne einen Tourguide mega schwer zu finden. Wir haben aber auf eigene Faust ein paar schöne Werke entdeckt🥰
      Nach einem Corona und einem Lachs-Bagel, besuchten wir das wunderschöne und kolonial geprägte Viertel Coyoacan. Zwei schöne Parks und viele kleine, einladende Restaurants sind das Highlight dieses Ausfluges!
      Morgen geht‘s ab nach Puebla😍🥰
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    • Day 8

      Estadio Azteca

      June 2, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Bit of a rush to get to the stadium through the traffic, after the visit to Museo de Antropología Nacional.

      Massive stadium with lots of ramps, of course our area was at the highest part 😅. Finally got to where the Tartan Army was, just as México scored what would end up being the winning goal.

      Entertaining show at half time, then managed to blag my way onto one of the Tartan Army buses, which got a police escort through blocked streets to the bar area towards the city centre 😁😁
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    • Day 62

      Ciudad de México - semana V parte II

      August 4, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      ... bevor das Wochenende startet, haben wir am Freitag unseren letzten Schultag und es gibt eine kleine Exkursion in den Bosque de Chapultepec und wir besuchen das Museo del Cárcamo de Dolores, das Castillo de Chapultepec und haben einen sehr witzigen Nachmittag mit Jay und Adrian von Lengua y Cultura.
      Am Samstag betrachten wir die Ausgrabungen am Plaza de las Tres Culturas und abends nutze ich mit Patrick die für mich wahrscheinlich einmalige Gelegenheit ein Fußballmatch im legendären Estadio Azteca anzuschauen. CF América vs. Club Tijuana 3:1. Schönes Spiel, gute Stimmung und leckeres Corona⚽🍻🇲🇽
      Sonntagvormittags ist in CDMX immer die Av. Paseo de la Reforma für den Autoverkehr gesperrt und viele nutzen dies zum Joggen oder Radeln. Wir leihen uns Ecobicis und fahren in den Norden bis zur Basílica de Guadalupe. Danach geht es quer durch die Stadt an einer alten Bahnlinie entlang, auf dem restlichen Heimweg wir sind zwischendurch trotz Google Maps ganz schön lost und das auch an ein paar ungemütlichen Ecken der Stadt. Am Abend sind wir aber pünktlich zu tacos (ich gönne mir heute sage und schreibe 10 Stück 🌮😋) und cervezas mit unseren Schulfreunden Charlotte, Michael und Jay zurück.
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    • Day 2

      Days 2 & 3: Mexico City

      February 7, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Any's have given me a huge room with one double and one single bed, a table and kitchenette with fridge as well as the bathroom. This part of the building probably goes back to the Porfirista period, named after the dictator who ruled the country from 1884 to 1911. Whatever one may think of his politics, this period left a legacy of pompous vaguely French-looking buildings; high ceilings, flowery cornices, chandeliers and creaking floorboards are standards.

      After a lie down I start to explore the neighbourhood. The streets are named after other Mexican states so I feel half-way to Oaxaca and Veracruz already. I have the good fortune to be there just after the release of the film "Roma" which is named after this quarter and I make a pilgrimage to Calle (Street) Tepeji where much of the filming took place. Roma is an up-and-coming neighbourhood with quiet, leafy avenues, bars and restaurants, and reminds me of San Telmo in Buenos Aires and Barrio Brasil in Santiago.

      The next morning Daniel prepares huevos rancheros, which are so good that I have them nearly every morning in Mexico. They're fried eggs bulked out with spicy "picante" sauce, sitting on tortillas (not the Spanish ones, these are prepared from maize and look like small pancakes) and the indispensable beans. And here, beanz meanz not Heinz but refried black or brown! There's a pleasant family atmosphere downstairs. The TV is showing videos of Latin American pop songs. Shakira is shimmying across the stage floor, leaving little to the imagination. Does she still do this or was this video made years ago?

      It's a day for the city centre. Although huge tracts of Mexico City are dirt-poor, the nucleus is sophisticated as befits a 20 million strong city. In a former bank I visit a brilliant exhibition by Graciela Iturbide, who photographs in black-and-white, the subjects mainly of ordinary Mexican people, either at work or in carnival mode. Nearby, the main Post Office is a fantastic creation recalling the late Spanish Gothic period and it's worth the entrance just to buy stamps for my postcards. The service is amiable but at the time of writing, the second half of March, the cards still haven't reached their recipients; in contrast my brother sent me a card of a Maya site in the Yucatan which arrived home in a week---because he posted it in the USA. Outside there's a profusion of people in army uniforms playing the mournful sounds of barrel organs but I prefer the rock group round the corner, thumping out 1960s classics. Try to imagine "Born to be Wild" with a strong Mexican-Spanish accent!
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    • Day 1

      Day 1: London to Mexico City

      February 6, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      One way to escape Brexit in Britain is to do the decent thing and make my Mexit. Mexico has something in common with the subject of my previous trip, Morocco, both countries beginning and ending with the same letter. That's about where the similarity ends. Mexico is almost 2 million sq. km. (750,000 square miles) in size and like many other big countries, is actually about 20 rolled into one. The north is mainly desert but as one travels south, the climate gradually becomes more moist until reaching the south-east, which retains some rain forest. There's also the height factor: some of the mountains are snow-capped but the coast can be steamy and sultry at 35C plus. Although the official language is Spanish, there are dozens of indigenous languages, some spoken by over a million people. Mexico is carpeted with the remains of ancient cities built by the Aztecs, Mayas and others but the Spanish legacy has left hundreds of beautiful churches up and down the country.

      I have travelled to Mexico several times and this time have decided to confine myself to a relatively small area, starting in the capital and moving overland to the states of Veracruz and Oaxaca to the south-east. It's a direct overnight flight from Heathrow to Mexico City. The flight is scheduled to land there at 5 a.m. but as fate would have it, the head wind is light and I arrive an hour early. Much too early to brave the city so I kill some hours in the departure zone. It's not all sit and wait however and there is some culture to enjoy: an excellent black-and-white photographic exhibition entitled "Afroreggae" by one Daniel Taveira based on young musicians in a favela (slum) of Rio de Janeiro---which as it happens, I visited less than 6 months ago.

      When dawn breaks, it's still too early to check into my accommodation so I use the time getting a taxi to the northern bus terminal to buy an onward ticket. From there I take to the Metro. The system, built in the 1970s, is a bit rough and ready and there is a 10-minute walk at one interchange station but for 5 pesos (20p), who can grumble? And so by 10 a.m. I am safely indoors and half an hour later, breakfasted at Any's, a hospitable guest house in the Roma district.
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    • Day 313

      Mexico City Part 2

      June 7, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      After a week at the beach, we flew from Puerto Vallarta to Mexico City so that we could meet up with our friend, Julie, who had travelled from Australia to Mexico to visit us. The hour-and-a-half flight got us into Mexico City airport with enough time to collect our bags and catch the train to the other terminal to meet Julie. We had made signs to hold as she exited immigration but her flight was early and she appeared before we could pull out the signs. Welcome to Mexico Aunty Julie!

      We spent the next two days in Mexico City exploring the nearby area and the Frida Kahlo house-cum-museum. The museum, also known as the Blue House, is dedicated to the Mexican artist and avant garde fashion icon, who was famous for her self-portraits (and her unique fashion) that combined popular culture with indigenous and folk styles. The museum included not only her artwork and photos but personal items that provided an insight into her lifestyle. Frida had contracted polio as a child which left her disabled and then was injured when she was involved in a bus accident when she was eighteen, which affected her for the rest of her life. Due to her injuries, she needed to wear corset-like garments to support her frail body, which she incorporated into her fashion. Apparently children would call out to her in the streets and ask her “where is the circus?”. To call it Fridamania would be an understatement. Frida's everywhere, including on the 500 peso note.

      We also meet a Venezuelan PhD student, Gerardo, studying in Mexico, who helped us practise our Spanish, although the conversations tended to be more Spanglish, a mix of Spanish and English whenever we were unable to find the vocabulary to express ourselves. However, we did prove to ourselves that we are able to make small talk (really small talk). Maybe we can continue our conversation when we return. Our time in Mexico City was only brief but we will be back to spend more time in the megacity upon our return from our next destination.

      Next stop: Cancun.
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    • Day 2

      Estadio Azteca

      February 29, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Das Heimspiel des Tabellenzweiten CF America im legendären Aztekenstadion durften wir uns natürlich nicht entgehen lassen. Allerdings war die Vorstellung in dem riesigen, mehr als 100.000 Zuschauer fassendem Kessel mit zwei roten Karten und leeren Rängen nicht allzu sehenswert.Read more

    • Day 53

      Mexico 7 - Touribus

      January 15, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Nachdem ich jetzt meine 3. Bleibe in Mexico City habe - das Mexico City Hostel - direkt im Centrum, einen Katzensprung von der Kathedrale entfernt, habe ich beschlossen mich heute ganz Touri mit dem Hop on Hop off Bus durch die Stadt fahren zu lassen. 200 pesos = 10€ kostet das und lohnt sich, wenn man den ganzen Tag nutzt. Ich hab allerdings erst um 15h angefangen und bin deshalb nicht oft ausgestiegen.
      Warum so spät? Weil mein Koffer rumzickt. Als ich gestern ankam, ging die Stange nicht mehr raus, an der man den Koffer rumrollt. Ohne die, ein wenig doof so ein Rollkoffer. Also habe ich alles ausgepackt, bis ich ans Gestänge von innen kam und konnte die Mechanik (bewegliche Niete, die in einem Loch einrastet) mit der Hand lösenund die Stange kam wieder raus. Damit sie aber später nicht wieder verklemmt, darf ich die Stange nicht ganz rein schieben. Also hab ich meine Mütze als Abstandhalter um den Griff gewickelt und gut. Wieder alles einpacken und schwups war es schon spät. Auf zu Bus:
      Man sitzt dann oben im offenen Doppeldeckerbus und eine Stimme erzählt, was man rechts und links so sieht. Es gibt 4 verschiedene Rundfahrten, die man alle nutzen kann. Ich hab 2 genutzt: Zentrum und Süden (Coyoacan). Letzteres ist das Viertel in dem die berühmteste Künstlerin Mexikos gelebt hat: Frida Kahlo.
      Auf dem Rückweg ging dann die Sonne unter und es wurde schweinekalt. Brrr. Leider war ich nur dünn angezogen und bin am Ende unten mitgefahren. Aber jut. Selber Schuld. Ich weiß ja mittlerweile, dass die Stadt am Tag sehr schön warm ist (ca.25°) und dass es, sobald die Sonne weg ist, sehr schnell sehr kalt wird (nachts waren es schon mal nur 4°). Vielleicht habe ich deshalb ständig ne zue Nase (schnief).
      Aber immerhin habe ich an meinem letzten Tag in dieser gewaltig großen Stadt nochmal einen Stadtteil gesehen, der sich zu erkunden lohnt - ein andern Mal. Hier die Eindrücke der Tour
      Achtung: niedrige Äste

      Now that I have my 3rd place to stay in Mexico City - the Mexico City Hostel - right in the center, a stone's throw away from the cathedral, I decided to let the hop on hop off bus drive me through the city as a tourist today. It costs 200 pesos = €10 and is worth it if you use it all day. However, I didn't start until 3 p.m., so I didn't get off that often.
      Why so late? Because my suitcase is bitchy. When I arrived yesterday, the Handlung bars with which one rolls the suitcase wouldn't go out. Without them, such a trolley suitcase is a bit stupid. So I unpacked everything until I got to the mechanism from the inside and fortunately could loosen it (movable rivet that snaps into hole) by hand and the handle bar came out again. But so it doesn't jam again later, I can't push it all the way in again. So I wrapped my hat around the handle as a spacer and that's it. Pack everything up again and whoosh it was already late. Off to the bus:
      You then sit in the open double-decker bus and a voice tells you what you can see on the right and left. There are 4 different tours, all of which can be used. I used 2: Centre and South (Coyoacan). The latter is the neighborhood where Mexico's most famous artist lived: Frida Kahlo.
      On the way back, the sun went down, and it got really cold. brrr. Unfortunately, I was only dressed thinly and ended up riding the lower deck. But yeah. Silly me. I know by now that the city is very nice and warm during the day (about 25°) and that as soon as the sun is gone, it gets very cold very quickly (at night it was only 4°). Maybe that's why I always have a stuffy nose (sniffle).
      But at least on my last day in this mighty big city, I saw a part of the city that is worth exploring - another time
      Attention: low branches
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    • Day 2

      A meeting with Frida and Diego

      February 24, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Fully satiated with breakfast and with the guide book already consulted, we ventured onto Mexico City's public transport network to visit the Casa Azul - Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's home, now a museum to both of them and a place we weren't going to be visiting as part of our tour.

      Despite the usual mishaps of almost mistaking the Metrobus for the Metro (which, truth be told is reminiscent of the NY subway in that it's efficient but a bit grotty and not somewhere you'd want to be late at night) and getting slighty lost on the way there, we arrived to find a huge queue. Normally we would have turned around and left but as this is in the Top 5 of the city's attractions, we bore out the 90 minute wait to get inside.

      Once though the turnstile, we entered into Frida and Diego's world. This was the house where she was born, lived and died, although it had been altered when she took full control on the death of her parents. The grounds were an oasis of tropical plants, sculptures and fountains. However, it was on entering the two exhibitions, one permanent and one seasonal, that we discovered Frida as person and artist. I had been aware of her and the style of her work but it was a passing acquaintance.

      The temporary exhibit was a display of her clothes, medical corsets and prostheses. I didn't know that her right leg had been withered by polio at the age of 6 and that she had suffered serious injuries in a bus accident at 18 years old that had required her to have 22 operations in her life. Rather than be bowed or cowed by her disabilities, she turned them into strengths often turning her corsets into works of art. She also adopted indiginous style dress called Tehuana - her mother was half Zapotec. These dresses involved a highly decorative and embroidered top half and a dark, long and flowing skirt. For Frida this dress drew attention away from her disabilities, allowing her to accentuate her positive features and appear taller. She eventually had her leg amputated in 1953 after which she coined her most famous phrase, 'Feet, what do I need you for when I have wings to fly!'

      Frida, the artist, was equally as interesting. She painted in both surreal and magical realist styles that highlighted the real and the absurd in life; the magical and the political. She was a follower of communist theory and actually gave refuge to Trotsky and his wife for two years following his exile from the Soviet Union. There are 3 examples of her work in the photos, ones which I found particularly notable. She also engaged in photography and made commentary of issues important to her by cutting portions of the photos out, sometimes leaving the spaces blank and sometimes transposing bits.

      All in all, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience although I would say go early if you were going or attempt to prebook tickets that, in theory, allow you to jump the queue. That being said, the website seemed to be as abstract as her paintings and those who were queuing in the prebooked line were not moving much faster than us!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Coyoacán, Coyoacan, Coyoacán Borough, Delegación de Coyoacán

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