Michelle Eichenberg
I'm a travel agent which comes in handy as I want to travel the whole beautiful world. Read more🇩🇪Göttingen
  • Over the Clouds at New Year's Eve

    December 31, 2023 in Germany ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Today, I slept way better than yesterday, waking up at 11am. I guess that's the result of around 19.000 footsteps. My parents arrived shortly afterwards, bringing us some breakfast rolls and blocking our bathroom. As if they didn't have one at the hotel...
    After breakfast, my parents and I went back to the beach whilst my sister went back to bed. Yesterday's forest walk was too much fresh air, I suppose. As the Neujahrsgarten was already open, my Mom decided she wanted to try Glögg, the Swedish version of Glühwein with raisins and almonds inside. I shrugged and said, I'd share with her. It was a hot but sweet little drink that tasted quite alright and warmed up quite a bit. Then, Aluna and I should have started our stroll along the beach while Mom and Dad went back into the hotel. However, Luni wanted to go with Mom and followed her from the beach over the promenade up to the hotel. I had to catch and line her up, dragging her back to the beach. She was resistant until she met the first dog she could play with. Afterwards, Mom was forgotten and we could move along without her hesitance. We had another long walk around the beach and then back to Dad's flat, where we had our usual cleaning and a quick nap, as tonight would be a long night.
    Waking up, as good as new, we made our way to my parents, to go have dinner at the Köstlich restaurant. It was packed, but luckily, my dad has reserved a table in advance. The waitress was cheerful as one could only dream of, and the food was quite alright. A Chinese luck cookie was on the table for each of us. Mine read "Gratefulness is like wine. Come on, drink up!" which I found quite fitting.
    Later, we went back to the hotel and watched Dinner for One together, a beloved, funny tradition. Then we made our way up to the shut down restaurant "Über den Wolken" (translating to Over the Clouds). It's been closed for ages now as the customers lift to it (it's in the 33rd floor of the Maritim, 115m above sea level) was broken and the costs for fixing it in the millions. However, the employees lift was still running and as my dad is one of the most important ones at the Maritim, we sneaked up there.
    The restaurant is a dream come true for Aluna as there is all carpet and lots of space to run. The old chairs, tables and lamps, all left in their last positions. The air felt eerie and cool. I loved it up here. We had an amazing view!
    When the clock turned midnight, we "Cheers" -ed and viewed the hundreds of fire works going in the air. It was quite the experience!
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  • Alunas First Time at the Beach

    December 30, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After an awful night full of unnecessary thoughts, I woke up at 7am to get myself ready. I was going to pick up some used furniture for my new flat and had to drive to Lübeck and Bad Schwartau for it. Luckily, my sister was kind enough to come with me to help. We picked up my two Kallax shelves and some treats and a leash for Aluna as substitutes for my forgetfulness. Afterwards, we had a long walk with Aluna around the Riesebusch forest in Bad Schwartau. Muddy, wet and nearly frozen, we drive back to Travemünde where we warmed up our bodies again staying at my Dad's flat. After a proper breakfast, Aluna and I made our way to the beach. As it was her very first time at the sea, I was really looking forward to her reaction. I know that she loves playing in the sand at home, so being with her at the beach would be amazing. And she really loved it. As soon as she realized everything was sand, she sprinted into the distance and was super happy. Sniffing each and every shell, and meeting lots and lots of different dogs, I knew that she'd be very tired tonight. We walked and walked for at least 2hrs and she never even so much as touched the calm water to her right. She is a beach dog, not a water dog, that's for sure.
    Finally, we finished our walk and met my parents at the Maritim hotel lobby. We took the lift up to the 13th floor with an amazing view over the Trave and I cleaned Aluna from all of the saltiness. I wanted to go to the Christmas Market, as there still was one in Travemünde, so I left Luni with my Mom and went on my own. There were little handcraft stands with wooden statues, pearly necklaces and witty writings. And there were Bratwurst and Glühwein, but what I wanted was Schmalzkuchen. Little pieces of dough, baked in fat and served with powdered sugar. Here in the North of Germany it's also called Mutzen. I love Mutzen! These were the best I've ever eaten because they were so freshly baked and still very soft. I ate the whole bunch on my way back to the hotel, and I have to admit... My tummy hurt after that. Well, they'll never be as good as that anymore. Back at the hotel, I made myself ready and my family and I went to The Pub at the foot of the Maritim Hotel. We ate a very late dinner whilst Aluna was fast asleep beneath our feet. And after dinner, I was glad that I could still roll my stuffed body up the hill to get back to Dad's flat.
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  • Driving To Se(a) the Fireworks

    December 29, 2023 in Germany ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    After another day of work, my sister and I drove to Travemünde to stay at my dad's over New Year's Eve.
    My mom and dad were on holidays, so they decided to see the fireworks of Travemünde for a change. So my dad booked my mom a hotel room at his work, the Maritim hotel, and stayed with her there. Therefore, my sister and I could stay at his flat. And as Aluna had never seen the ocean before, I took her with me as well.
    We drove through heavy rain, but our mood was quite good, listening to our different kinds of music tastes. We arrived at 10pm and were completely done for the day, but obviously, something had to go wrong... I ha forgotten most of Alunas things at home. So I didn't have any treats, chewing sticks or toys with me, not even a leash. At least I had her food with me. Adrenaline was high, mood was low, but I couldn't do anything against it now. It would only be a few days anyway. And the most important things, I could still buy tomorrow. Well, what you don't have in mind, your wallet will have to give to you...
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  • With a Wheelchair back to Mauritius

    Nov 16–18, 2023 in Mauritius ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The night was horrible, I couldn't sleep, and I shat every ounce of water out of my body again, as soon as I had some in me. I was panicking, and Seb was, too as he didn't know what to do. As soon as the first prayers were audible on the streets, Seb made his way to Solofo to ask for the doctor again to see me, as well as go get the medicines he prescribed. I was just trying not to hyperventilate and die.
    After an hour or so, the doc was there again, but this time, he seemed a bit less kind. I understood as much French in my diluted state, that he was thinking I'd be just hysterical. He still gave me another infusion. It helped a bit, but I still felt like shit. Seb was always on the phone with the HanseMerkur, asking what we should do. We wanted to travel today, needed to. But at the end of one 3hrs flight and one 12hrd flight, there wouldn't be home, but Paris. We wanted to stay there for another 3 days. I didn't even know how I'd manage the 3hrs flight to Mauritius, let alone a romantic get away in France. I just wanted to get home, get somewhere safer than Madagascar for heaven's sake.
    So, after cramming at least five different types of drugs into my mouth, we decided to leave for the airport. It was horrifying. I couldn't even walk properly as I felt so dizzy. My heart was working ovezr time and I was so hot and cold all the time. We sat in the little bus and drove through Tana. I tried to stay conscious and was rewarded with views of the military all around town. They had so many weapons with them. It would have been terrifying seeing this on a normal day. But when you feel weak as fuck and you'd wish yourself to get into a hospital, the last thing you want to see is soldiers pointing guns at you. Okay they weren't pointing at our bus, but it still felt extremely terrifying.
    When we arrived at the airport, a wheelchair waited for me. We had spoken to Christian, my boss, and he has managed to organize a wheelchair service for my flights. I was on the brink of crying. I was so relieved that I didn't need to walk. We checked in rather quickly due to the wheelchair service, and past the security check in no time. Then we just had to wait. Kate was waiting with us, too. She gave me some muesli bars, and talked me into drinking more of the damned electrolyte water. I didn't throw up this time, lucky me. I could barely manage to breathe evenly and not panic.
    After a while, it was time to say our final goodbyes and board the plane. It's crazy how much everyone looks after you, the moment you're in a wheelchair. We could sit down first, but I actually hated that. More time for me on a stupid plane. I hate planes. I hate flying. I feel without any control. Now, half dying, I felt even worse. But I so badly wanted to get out of this shitty country. And the only way was via plane. Alright then. I braced myself and for the next three hours, my main goal was even breathing. Nothing more, nothing less.
    I survived.
    And then we landed in Mauritius and I started crying for relief. Safe. Or at least - safer.
    Again, we were welcomed by the wheelchair service and got to the gate in no time. I must have looked like death itself, as Seb insisted for me to lay down. I did. I couldn't do anything else. I must have fallen into a feverish sleep, as next thing I know, he came back with some medical staff from the airport. A woman and a man. They both looked at me, checked my vitals. The man asked me to stand up and walk a few steps. I was asking myself, why on Earth I should do that, when I could barely exist sitting. But I stood up, I walked a few meters and sat down as soon as possible. I heard a mumbling. A "she can walk, so she will be able to fly". I've never heard anything more stupid. Seb looked at me, trying to get an answer from me. Can I fly, he asked, multiple times. I refused to answer. I was panicking. I didn't think I could fly, but I didn't want to stay here either. Seb got frustrated - we followed the medical staff into their treatment rooms. We asked for a representative of the Mauritius Airlines as we wanted to ask for a Business class seat for me. The HanseMerkur couldn't rebook me on it but would pay for it if it became available. That wasn't the way I had planned on getting myself a Business class for the first time, but I'd take anything to lay down during the flight. The representative came 15min before boarding. I had gotten yet another infusion in the meantime and Seb has been on the phone with the insurance all the time, discussing what would be best. Honestly, I don't know what would have happened to me, if he hadn't been there, organising everything.
    In the end, there was no Business Class seat available for me and Seb and the insurance decided that it would be best for us to stay in Mauritius and get into a clinic to treat me properly.
    So, we checked out, immigrated into Mauritius again, got our bags and into a taxi. The ride took about an hour as the clinic was in the North of the island. I had time to think at last. The people on the plane must have been furious about the delay, not knowing that it was because a passenger's luggage had to get out because she was on the brink of death. I would have been for sure. It would mean more time in a stupid plane. The medical staff haven't thought my condition to be so critical, they thought I was hysterical as well. I felt betrayed. How dare they say something like that? Fucking sexists.
    We finally arrived at the clinic, it was well past midnight, and there weren't many people around. A woman greeted us, she'd be my doctor. As she looked at me, a worried expression dawned on her face. Then she said "It was the right choice not to get on that plane. You look like a ghost. You need proper treatment." And I felt like crying. Finally, someone who understood me, didn't question me, just wanted to care about me.
    She checked my vitals, asked several questions and finally led us to our room. Seb could stay with me, luckily. I was put on a constant infusion, but it was difficult, as my veins have been used too many times in the last couple of days. I had to have it on my left arm now. It didn't matter. She has told me that when a body is so dehydrated, no amount of water I'd drink would be sufficient. Only 30% of that would stay in the body, and this only if I didn't shit it out. With an infusion, we'd increase that to 80%.
    I slept for a few hours. I woke up whenever someone came in to check on me and change the infusion. In the early morning, I was wheelchaired to examine my stomach. They did an ultrasound, asked more questions. I had to give them samples of my pee and poo. The results would take a few days, but they'd tell me if they'd find something bad inside my gut. I was constantly thinking about the client we had that went to Madagascar in perfect shape and returned with deadly bacteria in her intestines. Another friend of her traveling group had already died from it as there hasn't been sufficient treatment in Madagascar for it. At least, we were in Mauritius now and I hoped that we'd be back in Germany asap.
    Seb continued his many calls with the insurance. In the afternoon, a new doctor, again a man who seemed to think I'd be overreacting, asked when we'd leave. I was so confused. They thought we'd just go back to our hotel in Mauritius, they hardly understood that we came straight from Madagascar to their clinic. They wanted to talk to the insurance and we provided them with the details. Apparently, there was miscommunication, they thought they wouldn't get paid by the insurance. Ffs, I was sick! I hardly had the mind to do small talk, how would I be able to discuss with them legal terms and what not? I was so glad Seb was there, managing everything. He didn't look good either. He was constantly worrying about me and how we'd manage to get home. Around 5pm, finally, the insurance called. We'd go on the plane tomorrow morning, straight to Frankfurt with Condor. I wanted to sob. Home. It was near. I just had to endure one more flight and a train ride home. Then I could cuddle with Aluna again.
    I tried to sleep and got some much needed rest. My arm hurt. It had swollen considerably from the infusion and the water that most likely was collecting there.
    The next morning, we woke up early, got a lunch pack and were picked up by the same taxi driver from two nights earlier. We had asked him whether we could contact him again for the ride back to the airport once the decision was made. Another wheelchair welcomed me at the airport and I realized how fond I've grown to be towards them. I would be flying Premium Economy, but Seb had a normal seat. I didn't want to endure this awfully long flight on my own, so he asked at the check-in whether there were any seats left in Premium Economy. Luck was on our side, and he paid a mere 175€ for the upgrade. Not a lot for a 12hrs flight, tbh. On the plane, I started shaking. I felt better but what if my state worsened during the flight? There was no way out. I was panicking. Seb tried to calm me down. My arm hurt and I tried to solely focus on that. Rather hurt than panicked.
    The flight felt endless. I couldn't really sleep (I never could), and I was constantly thinking that I couldn't die now. I might have been hysterical then. My condition was stable, I wouldn't die, but the feeling of weakness sat deeply in my bones and I have actually never felt that awful in my life. I would survive that. I would love, and see Aluna again soon. That was my motivation, that kept me sane.
    Finally, we landed. I have never ever in my life been more grateful to call Germany my home. Here, it was safe. Here, I could recover.
    My last wheelchair arrived, brought us to the baggage claim and through customs. The way to the train station, we had to figure out by ourselves. The train ride home was calm and quiet until the end, when Seb finally snapped. He hasn't slept much the last couple of days either. So, I got his frustration, but still.
    When we finally were home and I had Aluna in my arms again, I cried of relief and joy.
    This horror trip will most definitely haunt me forever. I will never ever think of drinking enough water the same. I'll be way more careful from now on.
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  • A Doctor's Appointment for Last Supper

    November 15, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Our wake up call was rather early today, as our flight back to Tana was starting at 7.30am.
    I was feeling awful again, as I not only got my period, but also very bad diarrhea. Yesterday, I had it too, but it only caught up with me today. So, when we stood in line for the check-in, I had to sit down and rest, focus on breathing and not hyperventilate.
    Very fortunate for me, the flight was on time and we were back in Tana in no time. Unfortunately, our rooms at the Belvedere hotel weren't ready yet, so the group decided on going to the Handcrafts Market in town. The pills I took gave me enough strength to pass the next hour of constant "Please have a look", "Good price, good price" and "I made it myself" (spoiler: they never did). Finally, it was over and we drove back to the hotel where we checked in for one last night in Madagascar. We had only planned for one last dinner together with the group at 6.30pm, so the day was pretty much free for our use. Bad thing that I had to use it mostly for laying in bed feeling awful, only leaving it for the toilet to let out all the water that I so desperately tried to put into my body. I was drinking up electrolytes as crazy, but my body revolted against it more and more until I had to puke instantly after drinking them. Afterwards, I just stuck to normal water.
    When time had come for dinner, I felt like shit, however, I wanted to see my fellow comrades one more time and just share all the new memories that we made. So I clenched myself onto Sebs arm and dragged my body to the restaurant. But my head was so dizzy and I felt so weak that I quickly decided to go back into the hotel again. Especially after hearing that there would be a curfew because of the presidential election the next day, I wanted to be back in our room as quickly as possible. We asked Solofo to call the doctor to see me in the hotel and said Goodbye to everyone. It was rather heartbreaking, but I needed to lay down again. Seb got me back to the hotel safely and I tried not to hyperventilate for the next two hours until the doctor and Solofo finally arrived.
    As the doctor could only speak two words in English, we needed Solofo for translation. You'd think that such well educated people like doctors would be able to speak something else than French, but you'd be wrong.
    After testing my blood pressure, breathing and tongue stretching abilities, he put me on an infusion. "You're dehydrated, you've lost way too much water, your body is weak", Solofo translated for me. Well, I knew that much... Whilst I was on the infusion, the doctor perscriped me about ten kinds of drugs to get in the morning. Some others, he gave me right away. After a while the infusion finally kicked and I didn't feel like Death was waiting behind the door anymore. However, I still needed lots of rest. So Seb paid the doctor (changing some more money as we hadn't had enough), and they all took off. How would I be able to manage the 12 hrs flight tomorrow? I tried not to stress about that tonight anymore and fell into a very rough sleep.
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  • A Rickshaw Driver Was Born

    November 14, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    This morning I woke up feeling better than yesterday, which made me very glad. Yesterday, Seb has come up with a plan together with Bernie and Roger to become Rickshaw drivers. Roger has already put a toe in the waters to test it when we were waiting for Kates lost luggage to arrive in Tulear the other day. He had paid a Rickshaw driver to let him try it and had been very much surprised by the fact that it is rather diffix6to steer these machines. But he was eager to evolve his driving abilities and Seb has agreed to jump on this waggon, too. Bernie just wanted to play voyeur and cameraman.
    They've planned to meet at 11am which bothered me as it was 30 degrees at 9am already and the Heat wouldn't do them well driving Rickshaws. But now it was too late and I decided to go with them. We made our way along the beach of Ifaty and after only 20m I felt how my heart was racing, the sweat was running and my head spinning. I'm just not made for the heat and especially not around here it seemed. But I bit my tongue until we finally arrived in the village nearby, sat down and gulped down some drinks. When I didn't feel so dizzy anymore, we went on to find some lucky Rickshaw drivers who'd be paid today for getting a ride instead of giving them one. Seb explained his wish, the guy didn't seem too thrilled but the money changed his mind quickly. However, the steering of the Rickshaw seemed to be way harder being on the main road with other vehicles passing, which made the owner of the Rickshaw change his mind yet again. After mere seconds, Seb was degraded to a normal passenger again and he drove into the distance toward our planned lunch location. As a Roger has already stopped another Rickshaw driver for his improvement, he drove off as well. Bernie and I decided to walk on our own feet and met the guys soon after. There, Seb got another chance on getting the gist of a Rickshaw Driver, as it was a small road where not many people or cars were around. His second try was better, though the Rickshaw owner seemed rather glad when he got his money and could vanish into the distance. Obviously, the video had to be rewatched multiple times during our wait for lunch at Chez Freddie. With the food, a cat arrived that was as thin as paper and as hungry as ever. I usually don't like cats too much, but I sympathised with it today, so I gave it a bit of my food. The dessert was mine though. Bad enough I had to share it with Seb.
    After lunch, we made our way back to the hotel, going over the beach. This time, two boys glued themselves onto our sides and tried to persuade us in giving them something. As we learned at the very first day, you shouldn't give kids anything, so I just repeated myself over and over again, saying that he should go to school. When he finally showed my something written on his arm and him gesturing a pen, it clicked. He wanted a pen, something to write with. Sebs new friend was the same, so we decided to get them something to write and in that regard some new clothes as well. We made them wait at the beach whilst getting a pencil from the reception (we only had one pen and still needed it for any eventualities flying back) and two t-shirts from our bungalow. Meeting them back at the beach, they were a bit disappointed about the pencil, I guess because they can't wrote on their skin with it. These poor kids don't even have paper for God's sake. The older boy was very happy about my orange Nike shirt, however the younger one was quite upset about Sebs Schalke t-shirt until he understood what Seb tried to explain to him. Obviously, right now he won't fit into that shirt (as he was only like 6), but he'd grow into it soon enough. Another sign that these people don't really think long-term but only for the here and now. But he got it eventually. For our gifts, they gifted us two of their necklaces as well, so we kind of exchanged things rather than just giving them. They were happy about the stuff, we were happy about making just the tiniest of positive impact and so we could part ways.
    The rest of the day was just relaxing at the pool, playing cards with Mike and later go to a restaurant with the group. On the way there, a horrible sight struck us: A dead dog body, already half eaten. Luckily, Seb managed to get away with me before I could start to try reanimation on it.
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  • Curtains Up for the Malagasy Wildlife

    November 13, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Last night has been horrible, as I was sick all the time. I was feeling so weak, I was laying in bed until 2pm, just eating one slice of plain bread. The rest of the day, I was sitting around the bar, trying to drink as much water as possible, which only resulted in me rushing to the toilet every other minute.
    When time for dinner arrived, I could only eat very little, as I felt sick again. And, lucky me, it seemed as if my period would just start to arrive.
    So, that has been a great day. But you can enjoy some amazing photographs that Tracy took with her camera that I couldn't put into a post yet. Curtains up for the breathtaking wildlife of Madagascar.
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  • And the Heat Strikes Again

    November 12, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Our last long drive was waiting for us when we left the lodge this morning. I said Goobye to my friend Grey and hopped into the bus last minute. It would be yet another 7hrs of great bumpy roads for us. The landscape lost its trees by the minute and left nothing else but dry grass and stones. The surroundings changed from poor to poorer, the little huts from the villagers getting smaller and smaller, their faces grumpy and mistrusting.
    We had a quick stop at the biggest baobab in this region which is around 300 years old. Comparing its size and the size of the 300 year-old Elephant foot we saw yesterday, that was huge. We also stopped at some maybe fossils for Seb and Mike to take a look at, but they weren't sure and we moved on. It got hotter and hotter until we arrived in Tulear for our lunch break. When I sat down at the table, I felt very bad and it got worse by the second. Seb gave me some of my beloved electrolytes to drink, but my body was already kind of zoning out. I just tried to not faint, sit still, drink lots of water. I think, I got a heat stroke just then. Luckily, it was only another hour to go, but this hour took all of my strength. Finally, we arrived at the Bamboo Club in Ifaty, our home for the next three nights. Finally, we'd get some rest after this stressful round-trip.
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  • Dying from the Heat in the Isalo NP

    November 11, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    This morning we woke up early again, to start our tour around the Isalo National Park. It's 25km wide and 180km long, which makes it the second biggest National Park in Madagascar. It has a variety of endemic plants and Insects that can only be found in the park. We left the lodge at 7am and it was already quite warm with around 25°C. Solofo told us, it would get around 35-40°C today. Not very good news for me...
    Our first challenge was the river that we had to cross with our bus. After Ninny, our driver, took a quick glance at it, he said that he can do it, and he just drove into the river. Solofo said that our weight actually helps steer the bus, as he can touch the ground with us. That's the first time, my weight actually helped someone, so I'll take it.
    We arrived at the bottom of the mountain range and were introduced to our guides. We then had to decide who wants to be in the fast group (those wouldn't get so many explanations and rather walk quickly to the stops) and who wants to join the slower group. As I know my walking abilities, Seb and I decided to join the second one. We started walking and it was clear immediately, that it would be a very tough walk, because of the heat. I enjoyed the explanations of the plants and little animals around, but I was always looking for the next shade to hide under. We learned that the Malagasy people around Isalo bury their dead with some black and white clothes and put a cloth around the. They then put them in a little cave at the lower part of the Isalo mountains and leave them there for around 2 years. After these 2 years, they get the dead people's bones out of the cave again, celebrate with them for a week and put them back up in a very high cave in the mountains so that they can become ancestors. Babys under 6 months won't be exhumed, nor would boys who haven't been circumsized yet (which usually happens between 2-5 years old, in a very brutal, old fashioned way). Women who didn't give birth during their life would be buried somewhere else as they weren't "worthy". As you can see... These believes and traditions are very much set into their culture, they still live it and they still believe in this bullsh*t. No wonder the country gets nowhere... I'm sorry to be so judgy about it, but everything regarding religion and God makes me want to scream.
    We moved on, saw some cool animals and local plants and finally arrived at the first natural pool. It was a beautiful oasis that had nearly crystal clear water and was just the right way to cool us down after all the sunny heat. We enjoyed about half and hour, until we went on for the second part of the first 7km to arrive at the campsite where we'd have lunch. This part was even harder, as it must have been way over 30 degrees by now and there was literally no shade anymore. But at least we had 400 steps to go down. Yippie!
    But we finally made it and arrived at the campsite. I was so done for the day. But there were another 5km to go to get to the black and blue pools behind the canyon. I honestly couldn't care less about it, and as Seb couldn't either, we decided to just get back to the lodge after lunch.
    The fast group came back from the black and blue pools about 10min after we arrived from the first part of the 12km hike. So they were quick!
    They told us it was quite an enjoyable walk, mostly in the shade but you'd have to go up and down lots of steps in the narrow canyon. As my knees hurt already, I just called it a day, enjoyed my lunch and the walk back to the bus.
    Back at the lodge, we chilled a bit in our bungalow, cuddled with Grey and booked ourselves a massage.
    It was only 12€ p.p. for 45min, so we said "What the heck". However, at least for me, it was horrible. My masseur was so rough and was putting so much pressure especially on my joints that I nearly cried. And I couldn't really tell her to do it differently, as she couldn't speak English. So, I endured the pain and was just very happy when it was over. Looking to my right, I saw a totally relaxed Seb sitting next to me. Well, at least someone was enjoying it.
    Afterwards, I was just in pain and tried to move as little as possible. That I can do.
    But we had the possibility to look at a very well-preserved fossil that Jacob had found in the many clay stones around. Seb and Mike were extremely happy about it, so I was happy as well. At least a good end to a stressful day.
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  • Creating Balance by Planting Trees

    November 10, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We arrived at Soa Zara and were welcomed by Jacob, the Dutch founder of the tree planting project. He reminded me of Max Verstappen, the Formula 1 driver, with his firm talking and efficient striking that didn't accept any weakness of himself.
    He explained to us, why he founded this project in the first place, and listening to him made me extremely sad.
    All the high plateau we drove through from Ranomafana to Ambalavao and Ranohira had been jungle 50 years ago. All the massive mountains that interrupt the landscape in between and are now completely blank, we're full with trees 150 years ago. If there is no change, in 2040 the southern region of Madagascar will be a desert. All these trees were cut by people, first because of the French Industrialization, then because of the locals' need to feed their Zebus. Where ever a tree stands, no grass can grow, so they cut the trees. However, when there are no trees, they can't give leaves to the soil and their roots can't hold it. So, whenever the heavy rainfalls arrive, the soil gets washed away by them. That's why the rivers are always muddy in Madagascar. Because the soil is washed off by rain. When it gets into the river, it'll end in the sea, and then it's gone forever. As Madagascar is a country on sandstone, there isn't a lot of soil, only about 2-3m in the southern region. Underneath you get the stone. And plants can't grow on stone. The soil gets very dry in the meantime, so that it's extremely hard and looks like stone itself. When the rain comes, the soil can't take all the water and, as I said, is washed away. The grass that the Zebu farmers love that much, they burn it whenever it is dry, so that new green can grow. However, by burning the old grass, all the nutritions from it leave as smoke with the wind, and the soil didn't get anything new to add again. So the grass will grow there multiple times, but after a while the soil won't have enough seeds or power anymore to grow anything. So the Zebu farmers have to cut even more trees to get more land for more grass that will last a couple months. This short-term thinking makes me furious and I don't get it. But then again... I get it. They're not educated, they just want to survive and they don't have the long-term sight that we have, because of the science we have access to. Oh, and I don't want to be a hypocrite, because even with all the science and knowledge on our hands, there are still enough western people who dismiss the fact of climate change and we still don't do enough to stop it.
    So, hearing all this from Jacob, made me want to cry, but this doesn't help anyone, so I'd rather help his project. He shows us some trees former G Adventures travellers have already planted. He showed us a huge tree and told us that it was planted about 4 years ago, then he pointed out another tree of the same species that was rather small and didn't look so fit. "This one is about 5 years old. It can't grow that easily because there isn't enough soil underneath it. Some tress get lucky, some trees don't. About 1/3 of all the 180.000 hectares we own aren't useful for planting trees anymore because of the missing soil."
    Uff. That's tough. Hopefully, our little piece of land would still have enough soil to grow our trees. We began the work and Seb and I planted three trees each, naming them Aluna, Andrea, Siegfried and Renata, Stefan and Olivia. Crossing fingers that they would grow up lucky.
    To plant 65 trees with 10 people took not enough ten minutes and I would have happily planted trees the next 2 hours. But I guess that it was more of a symbolic act then a real tree planting action. Tourists like us should talk about these problems and projects to solve them, so that others would come, help and donate. Jacob and his team is planting 300.000 tress this year, next year they are planning to do 1 million. They get help from the government by the way, they help them with all the scientific things like when is the best time to grow this tree where, etc. But they don't fund anything for the project. Oh, and I didn't talk about the Lemurs yet. The Ranohira village is next to the Isalo NP, which houses some kinds of lemurs. As they have less and less trees their too, they've searched for other habitats which made them come into human cities, where there are lots of predators like cats, dogs and... Humans. They might have got caught by people who sold them to some rich kid from Russia or the UAE. There, the lemurs get accustomed with human food and can't go back into the wild like that. They were living alone in a 1x1x1m cage as well, which makes them unsocial and usually not very fit. Lemurs like that sometimes get rescued by the Malagasy government or other organisations and have to be taught to live in the wild again. Right now, Soa Zara has 14 lemurs like that in their care that can't be visited by tourists. They try to remind them about their natural instincts again to finally put them into their natural habitats again. But if all the trees are cut before that can happen... Well. Soa Zara tries to recreate their habitats by planting trees so that in case of more migrations of desperate lemurs, they could find peace and safety in their trees.
    After cleaning our hands, we had a little snack buffet, watching the sunset and ants stealing our popcorn. Then Jacob told us about yet another project he's starting at the moment. Currently, he's building a restaurant that will have the following benefits: For every drink bought there, a tree will be planted, and for every meal purchased, a school kid from Ranohira will get a meal, too. With that, he wants to help the poor school children that won't have breakfast nor lunch because both their parents gone, to get something into their stomach. The fathers are working on the fields, whereas their mothers go to the last remains of the river to wash clothes. So in that regard, he's also building a washing station in the village, so that the women won't have to go to the river and wait for their clothes to dry. When they can wash their clothes in the village, they'll be home more, so they can feed their children more and get to spend more time with them. This may help the children to study more easily and therefore better, which makes them more educated with better chances of having a better life. So, you see how many small things intertwine and connect to a huge amount of problems that need solving.
    I'm glad, that I could be a small part of a good project like this.
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  • Ring-Tailes and Chameleons On Mas

    November 10, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We arrived at the Anja Community Reserve and found a family of Ring-tailed Lemurs after walking about 5min. They were play-fighting with each other, hopping from tree to tree and we're just in general quite active. These are the King Julian Lemurs from the film "Madagaskar" and I have to admit, these are my favourite ones. I just loved watching their behaviour. Nonetheless, I had to go ahead to discover more from the Reserve and found lots of insects, chameleons, snakes and more Lemurs. We even got very, very close to a mother with her baby in her arms that was sunbathing. That was a really special moment! I gotta say, from all the National Parks or Community Reserves I've seen so far in Madagascar, I liked the Anja Community Reserve most.
    However, our tour had to end sometime, so we jumped back into the bus and drove 4 hrs to Ranohira, where we'd finally stay for 2 nights. But before checking into our hotel, we'd go do some good for the planet.
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  • At the Paper Factory in Ambalavao

    November 10, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After an alright sleep in our upgraded bungalow, we woke up to go to the paper factory that was right on the hotels' property. We learned that the Avoha tree is the base for the Malagasy paper. The bark is shedded from the tree (instead of cutting it, making sure that it can re-grow and be used again) and cooked in hot water for 4 hours. Then, the now softer bark is getting beaten hundreds of times (which actually sounds like preparing a German Schnitzel). Afterwards, 400g of the bark mash is mixed with water and spread on a framed cotton sheet (150x75cm). There, the paper gets cut into shape and decorated with several plants/flowers. Then a kind of glue from the tree itself is put on the design, so that it will stick to the paper. Last step is to put the frame into the sun and let everything dry, until you can easily take the paper off the cotton sheet. That was quite interesting to learn about.
    Our luggage back on top of the bus, we made our way to our next stop on the itinerary: Anja Community Reserve.
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  • Kickstarting back to Life - Romanafana

    November 9, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    This morning, our group split into the active ones going to Ranomafana National Park, and the lazy ones sleeping in. As Seb wasn't over his illness quite yet, we belonged to the lazy group. However, we did do something in the morning as well. We went to the hot springs of Ranomafana (which is the translation of the city's name). We had to buy very nice shower caps before entering the swimming pool that was filled with the filtered hot water. We looked like idiots :D
    When we entered the pool area, we could feel that we (especially me) would become THE hot topic of the village now, as they were whispering and taking pictures of us. I thought that lots of tourists would come to the hot springs, however my white skin seemed to still interest them a lot.
    The water was actually really hot, like around 40°C, which made it difficult to stay longer in the pool thsna few minutes. But it was enough to give us kind of a kick-start back to life after leaving it again. We walked back to our hotel which took about 5min. On the way there, we were stopped by a local who showed us his needed chameleons. At least he protects them because they bring him money.
    After packing our luggage, we took off to pick up the other NP group, however it was taking more time than anticipated, as there has been an accident on the only road we could drive on. There were policemen around, but they weren't really helping. So it took some time, but after around half an hour, we could drive again and picked up the others. They shared some great pictures of new species they saw in the National Park which I put into tje next footprint for you to enjoy as well.
    After having an early lunch picnic, we drove on to the Ranomafana waterfall for a quick photo stop. After that, it was another 4hrs to drive to Ambalavao for the night.
    The landscape changed from jungle to open savannah and mountains, not even remotely looking like you'd imagine Madagascar. But to be quite honest, the whole tour hasn't been like I've imagined it yet, soo...
    We arrived in Ambalavao and visited a silk factory. They cook the silk caterpillar cocoons in zebu fat for a couple of hours (so it's definitely not vegetarian nor vegan), and then extract the strings. They then get woven and coloured with mostly natural colours like beetroot (for purple) or flower roots (for grey). But the Malagasy silk doesn't feel like silk we're used to at all. It has a much rougher texture and is not as, well, silky. However, it's handmade and pretty cool therefore.
    We checked into our hotel for the night and had a quick dinner before going to bed early. Or at least, we tried to sleep early. However, when Seb sat down on our bed, it just broke down. After laughing our asses off, we looked underneath the mattress and saw a very simple structure from wood that just broke through. So, we went to the reception and asked what to do. Luckily, we got another room for tonight fast and could sleep in an upgrade now.
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  • Slipping back to the Longest Drive

    November 8, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today I woke up to drums and the Indri cries, feeling like a new person. I've slept pretty well, but I guess that's just because my body got its much needed rest. A lot of the others hadn't had a good night though. One of them being Seb. He looked very bad when I got to the men's dorm, being all pale and grumpy. "I didn't sleep a second", he stated with eyes that could kill. That would be a lovely day then...
    We had some breakfast (although I couldn't eat a lot at 6 o'clock), grabbed our backpacks and said Goodbye to our homestay. Then the tricky part began, as the dirt roads were muddy slides after hours of rain last night. With my trainers on, obviously, I had the best grip, but Seb gave me a hand whenever I needed it, so I didn't slip. We went onto the rims of rice fields again to avoid the very muddy parts and hopefully make it out with as less dirt on us as possible.
    We finally made it to the "main road" which was covered in uneven stones mixed with red sand. It was far easier to walk there. Reaching the bus and driving back to the hotel to pick up Roger (he had stayed at the hotel last night, as he was feeling ill), Seb was getting worse. He had very serious stomach cramps and his green face spoke miles. However, we needed to get on the bus again, no time to rest. Today we'd have to cover the biggest distance in the longest period of time: 10hrs.
    That drove wouldn't have been pleasant anyway, however with Seb cramping up I was sure it would become hell.
    We sat in our usual spot in the back of the bus and gave it a try. After an hour or so, Seb looked even worse and I figured it might be better to give him a plastic bag for puking. When we stopped for a quick bush toilet, I asked the others to sit somewhere else, so that Seb could lay down at the last row, as he couldn't sit straight anymore without having cramps. Luckily, all the others were very understanding and changed their seating order for him. We also got some medicine from Mike, as ours was in the luggage on top of the bus... Who could have thought that it was a bad idea to let Europeans live 2 days in a row out of a backpack, with no running water and food they may not cope well with... Another minus point for the poor planning of G.
    However, Seb took some pills and laid down on my lap as his pillow. It felt like seconds until he dozed off to his much needed sleep.
    For lunch, he already felt a bit better, but he stayed cautious and didn't eat much. Instead, he more or less enjoyed our very loud live entertainment during lunch.
    Back on track, it took another 6 hours and several Stopps until we arrived in Ranomafana. That has been better than expected and still was kinda shitty. But the sleep and meds have helped, so that Seb was feeling way better than before. Nevertheless, we didn't go to the Thermals (optional activity) tonight, but had some poor fried chips for dinner and just went to bed afterwards.
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  • Living like a Local - Malagasy Version

    November 7, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The next day we could sleep longer, as today only a short drive was planned. I woke up with a bad feeling which grew more intense every minute. I felt rather weak, as if I'd be sick. At breakfast, I told Solofo and he reckoned that it could be dehydration. Honestly, I didn't know how much I've had to drink the last days, but I guess it wasn't enough. As he asked me whether I'd think I could do today, I shrugged my shoulders. I won't know until I know. But I'd try, as today was the Local Living Moment and I wished for authentic cultural exchange. So, I drank up on electrolytes (which made me feel even worse as they were so disgusting I struggled not to puke). Seb wasn't feeling that great either, but he still supported me and stood by me. We drove to Lake Andraikiba, which was the Queens favourite place to spend her Easter holidays back in 1890. It was nice out there, and calm despite all the souvenir stalls that tried to lure one in. But I still didn't feel great. So more electrolytes. Seb felt better. Good.
    We drove to the point where we'd be "released to the wild" - we'd walk the remaining 4km to our accommodation for the night. The sun was burning on our heads now as it was high noon, but luckily I took an umbrella with me. In Mauritius and also Madagascar, I've seen lots of women use umbrellas as parasols, so I didn't feel foolish. After half an hour, we stopped at the Healer of the village. He's also an astrologist and ghost talker, a man of many talents. As there aren't enough doctors around Madagascar, most Malagasy rely on their old beliefs and therefore healers. He couldn't speak English, so Solofo translated whilst the Healer explained his Doings. A huge part of the Malagasy population is Christian (90%), but one religion isn't enough, so that another big part of them are still animists (60% from the 90%). In Germany we say "Doppelt hält besser" - I reckon they got a hold on this saying.
    We learned about the ways a healer could help people and could take some sniffs of tools (e.g. a piece of wood that smelled like pepper). Then he mentioned that he could do a "compatibility test" for couples before getting married. Sebs eyes went wide and I knew that he'd love to do one for us. A second later, he asked Solofo if he could ask the Healer to test us. His laugh was the reaction that I had in my head, however he asked the Healer and he agreed. So, Seb and I sat down next to each other, holding hands, and the ceremony began. The Healer was sniffing on one of his holy waters and fell into a kind of trance. He was mumbling the same Malagasy thing over and over again, whilst the candle in front of him and the zebu horn (filled with all sorts of things like honey, earth, etc.) in his hand started trembling. After 5min of that, he pulled his head up and took a deep breath. Solofo said that he was talking to the ancestors. Who's ancestors? I don't know... However, we were compatible as we were born in the right star constellations. The Healer just told us to always be honest to each other and believe in God. We went downstairs where all the other group members stood and asked "Are you compatible or will the bed situation be a drama now?" "Nah, we're compatible", we answered and Kates next question was "Did he propose already?" I was just laughing it off. Now I just had to start believing in God... Not gonna happen.
    We had yet another 2km infront of us and it got more difficult, as me and the streets were getting worse. We walked between rice fields and passed by "zebu-taxis", but finally made it to our homestay at Fiadanana.
    The well deserved lunch we were served was amazing and filling. The house we'd stay in hasn't got running water, toilets outside (western and squatting) and electricity only enough for the lights. This was far away from the western hotel we had last night, but I was looking forward to the new spider friends I'd make tonight (not really though).
    After lunch, we went to see our bedrooms for the night. The women would share one and the men would share one. It felt a bit like a class trip, and when the rain hit, and we stsrted playing cards, the impression was completed.
    After what felt like forever, the rain stopped and we made our very muddy way towards the school that was part of the "Avana Tsara Association" that G Adventures helped with by bringing tourists there. G is all about sustainable tourism, which helps in developing communities. I always thought that this is THE USP of G Adventures, so I was very much looking forward to see what it's actually like. The manager of the Association showed us one of four classrooms and explained how the association is working.
    Primary school in Madagascar is technically free since the last president election. However, there aren't enough teacher that are paid by the government. For example, the school here had 2 government-paid teachers, the 4 others were more or less parents from the school kids and had to be paid somehow. So, each kid still has to contribute with 55.000 Ariary (~12€) per year to pay these teachers. It doesn't sound much for us, but it is a lot for the locals. These locals can only afford the school fee when tourism brings a bit of money to them. All people of Fiadanana work more or less with the Association, so that their kids could go to school. But when Covid hit, three years of non-tourism nearly destroyed the village again. The manager said something extremely deep that gave me shivers: "Covid didn't kill anyone in the village, finances did and still do."
    Another big problem in education in Madagascar is that all school books and the teaching is in French, problem is that most rural teachers can't speak French. They might be able to read and write French, but not speaking more than" Bonjour, ca va?". Whereas they'd speak Malagasy, but couldn't read or write in Malagasy because they themselves never learned it in school. Isn't that fucked up? But everything" official" in Madagascar is in French. So, you'd always have the complications to translate back and forth in your head, and we all know that there are lots of things that can be lost in translation...
    So, in the school of Fiadanana, they try to start teaching them Malagasy and French afterwards. One language after another, just like in Germany. That makes way more sense.
    Another point why tourism in rural Madagascar is important was that the children would learn there is something else, outside of their bubble. Europe really exists and has white people and they're not trying to harm anyone (like in the 19th century), but they bring money. As much as I hate being seen as a cash cow, I love the fact that because of me, children might want to learn more in school. To be like the white people, educated and rich. And all the kids we passed by walking to Fiadanana, they greeted us in French, practicing with us and for themselves. I don't like the fact, that they somehow degrade themselves by thinking they aren't as worthy as white people, however, when it gets them learning and helps them in their future, I'm all for it.
    After that very deep insight of what's going on (and especially wrong) in Madagascar, we walked back to our homestay, where we had some samosas (one kind baja-like but with pumpkin and sweet, another with watercress) and tea/coffee. The coffee in Madagascar isn't even close to the baddest coffee in Germany, so I decided for Eukalyptus tea again. We played more cards outside, until the next rain storm hit and we fled inside again. For a change, the locals brought out some singing books and instruments and started their show with Malagasy songs. After a couple of them, they "opened the mic" up to us and we could sing some karaoke with a life band. That was quite fun, however, I felt worse again. For dinner, I could barely eat anything, I felt so sick. So I excused myself and went to lay down a bit.
    However, laying down I felt even more sick, so I grabbed Seb from downstairs and a bucket. Solofo told me to drink more electrolytes as the sickness could still be from dehydration. I disagreed silently. This feeling wasn't new to me, but I couldn't quite figure out what it was yet. Seb and I cuddled together in my 90cm bed and I started burping. Now I knew what made me feel so freaking sick. It must have been the very fat samosas that I ate. My body usually starts getting out all the extra gas from fatty food by burping for an hour straight. So, I behaved like a pig to get rid of the feeling and sure enough, after hundreds of bigger or smaller burps, I felt way better. The warm body of Seb helped as well, though. We might be compatible after all.
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  • Driving to Ansirabe - Impressions

    Nov 6–7, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    This morning we woke up early and had our pre-ordered breakfast that arrived as fast as if we wouldn't have pre-ordered. The Malagasy service at the Lodge is very mura mura (slowly). When finally everyone had eaten, we jumped into the bus for our longest busride yet. 5hrs from Andasibe back to Tana (for 150km), where we had lunch. And then another 4hrs for the 175km to Ansirabe. Ansirabe means "lots of salt", as the city has lots of salt. You could see the richness in the people there. All children wore school uniforms, nobody was begging. And you could see the poshness when we arrived at our hotel that night. We had nice bedrooms and the hotel had some pool tables and a bar designed in a very westernised US style. Seb and I agreed that it was a good hotel, but not authentic. Anyway, we'd have the authentic Malagasy lifestyle tomorrow with our Local Living Moment.Read more

  • Hunting Insects Like No Other Pt 1

    November 5, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌫 18 °C

    As Liva didn't have time tonight, his assistant took care of us. We started for 35k p.p. (just as the last night walk), and quickly found a bunch of things. There were so many fascinating tiny creatures in Madagascar, and no one else was looking for that. We asked our guide whether he liked hunting lemurs or Insects more. Lemurs was his answer. Well, that reflected on his abilities to spot insects, as Seb and I found way more little creatures than he did. However, he found the pigmy Chameleon, the smallest of its kind, and a scorpion which was deadly. However, luckily we discovered a trick to save your life whenever a scorpion should cross your way during the night. Just light it right in the eye, then it should try to hide itself quickly. But hopefully, you'd never need that advice, and me neither. We searched metre for metre and we're slowly ticking off boxes with all the insects we found. It was a very calm yet exciting walk, as behind every leaf a new species could wait for us. And as nobody else cared for Insects we had them for ourselves and didn't need to fight for the best picture. And then we discovered just the best thing I've ever seen: On moldy looking trees wasn't mold, but hundreds of insects. They just looked like snowflakes or cotton, it amazed me so much. These are the coolest creatures ever and nobody else cares about it. Now we know about it and care. We would get a very good rest tonight, I thought, because I suddenly felt the exhaustion of focusing and searching for Insects for 2hrs straight. We called it a day and drove back home to fall into bed and asleep.Read more

  • Andasibe NP - The Real Rainforest

    November 5, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    The next morning, we bought some breakfast and headed out to the Andasibe Nationalpark, where we'd do yet another walking tour with Liva. This time though, the walk was included. But even before leaving the Lodge, we discovered a brown praying mantis, looking exactly like a crumbled leaf. Liva told us, that once a polish photographer paid him for 2 weeks to find this kind of mantis, but never did. And there it was just in the lodge. Lucky us.
    We got to the national park and we're led to a disclosed area, where fish was farmed (very weird for a national park), because they've discovered a black boa there. It was trying to warm itself up again, it seemed. And it definitely was much cooler in the rainforest than we've expected. We froze in our bed tonight.
    Moving on, we found the special, endemic giraffe of Madagascar, and no, I'm not talking about Melman from the movie, but from the insect. This was very cool! Honestly, I'd never expected myself or Seb to be so fascinated by insects, but they impressed me way more than the lemurs did.
    We did see some though. Again some Indris, and common browns, but also the golden lemurs, which were new.
    The coolest discovery on this walk must be the millipedes, though, as it was red like fire and just casually crawling over the forest floor.
    That was a strong end to Livas expertise. The afternoon, we could do some optional activities such a going to yet another Indri Reserve (45k), go ziplining (that didn't look neither special nor safe, 30k per jump) or go canoeing (30k). We decided to relax the afternoon and instead played some cards with Mike and Roger. They taught us the card games 9-5-2 (strictly 3 players) and Jooker (a team game), we taught them Durak our favourite Russian game. That was lots of fun. But for the evening, we've convinced Sulufo to do yet another night walk but only for insects. As only Seb and I wanted to do that, that would be fun.
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  • Afternoon and Night Walking Safari

    November 4, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Everyone except Mike (he had travellers sickness) went on the afternoon walk through the Community Reserve in Andasibe. Our guide there was Liva, a cool guy who talked to the animals just for fun instead of trying to allure them. Going in the rainforest, I felt a little confused, as the forest didn't look that much like a rainforest. But then again: Who am I to judge? We wandered into the green for about half an hour, until we found a small group of common brown lemurs. One of them actually came as near as 50cm away from me, unbothered that I was doing a photo shoot with her and her baby. Then we moved on to find the Indri, the biggest lemur of all. And we did find them, however they haven't read the manual how to please tourists and stuck to their spot high up the trees. It was actually quite annoying that we'd stick around for so much time, hoping that they'd come down. I was just thinking "Please leave the poor animals alone".
    Then we found the most special tree on Earth: It's not identifiable, as it changes the leaves, fruits, blossoms and seeds every other year. Scientists can't say which kind of tree it is, but I most certainly can say that whoever found out that the tree is not identifiable must have magic eyes, because to me it looked just like the tree next to it. Moving on, we found a huge chameleon right in front of us, that was named after its discoverer Parson. It moved so slowly and still was so visible. That was really cool.
    We finished our afternoon walk and got back to our Lodge, we're we had some time to freshen up before the night walk. Liva was guiding the night walk as well and spotted some great things like chameleons and cool looking geckos. However, the most saught after animal (for the group) was the mouse lemur, also known as pigmy lemur, the smallest lemur there is.
    They were crazy about finding it, leading us into the jungle where we hit yet another group trying to find the smallest of its kind. These were way too many people for our liking, so Seb and I distanced ourselves a bit from the group and searched for insects. In the end, we found some dwarf and mouse lemurs and the others were happy. We were happy to be in bed asap.
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  • Driving to Andasibe - Impressions

    November 4, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We started early at 7.30am because we'd have to drive 6 hours to our first real overnight stop: Andasibe.
    We got into the bus and, honestly, I was deeply disappointed. It was a small, grey bus without any purple G design on it, with old seats that neither had lots of leg freedom nor any storage space for e.g. your water or phone. You also didn't have a USB-Charger. But hey, at least we could use our own bought water because G didn't even provided us with water in a country that is known for its lack... Oh, but we had to pay for our meals as well... So, very impressive G Adventures (not)!
    Okay, enough ranting and being pissed off. Let's give Madagascar a chance.
    As we left Tana, we saw hundreds and hundreds of policemen and soldiers along the way, as a protest was scheduled for tomorrow. When Seb said, that you would never have so many safety measures in Germany during a protest, I just plainly answered: "Yes, because Germans aren't desperate when protesting, because we have everything and are just complaining about stuff. These people have nothing, they are desperate and desperate people are dangerous because they have nothing to lose."
    Not to be said, that we were quite happy, when we left the Capital behind us.
    Driving through the Malagasy landscapes was weird, as there were lots of dirty, non-picture worthy villages that were crammed with cars and people, showing off the poorest bits of the country. And then there were endless green rice fields situated between mountains that gave you back the will to care. And then you learn about the once called "green island" of Madagascar is nowadays called the "red island", because of all the deforestation the Malagasy already did, showing off the red colored earth that's left behind. On the one hand, you want to be angry about the locals, on the other hand though they are only trying to survive somehow. Even if you'd educate them and show them how necessary the forests are for them (not only for better air, climate change, etc. but for tourism as well), they wouldn't have any other options. The country is just too poor, the politicians do nothing about it and even if they could, I wouldn't think they could do enough. As I said... These people are desperate, and desperate people don't decide for the greater good but for themselves.
    We finally arrived in our Lodge in Andasibe, checked into our bungalows and got some lunch. The afternoon would be free time or you could choose to go to a Community Reserve to see some lemurs. Obviously, this optional activity wasn't included in the tour price either. It would cost another 50.000 Ariary p.p.
    Anyway, we'd do it.
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  • Gecko Morning & City Stroll through Tana

    November 3, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We woke up early, as we had pre-booked a walking city tour this morning. We were ready at 8 o'clock, however when we came downstairs, we found out that the tour wouldn't start until 9am. So we decided to get some breakfast in the hotel first. We sat down outside on the balcony to enjoy the rumbling city underneath before we'd throw ourselves into exactly that. After a while of relaxed eating, multiple geckos appeared around us. They were so curious, they came onto our table and wanted some of my jam and fruits. I know that you shouldn't feed wildlife, but 1. Geckos are just way too adorable to ignore, and 2. they aren't mammals, they are reptiles that function differently than e.g. monkeys do. They would never get used to people like the fat monkeys at the Black River Gorge Viewpoint on Mauritius did. So I put a spoon full of jam aside so that the geckos could feed on it. More and more geckos came and checked out were the delicious smell must come from, and they got so close, that I could actually feed them with some jam on my finger. A gecko was licking my finger off! Whatever might come after this on the tour... This would become my most favourite memory.
    It was time to get going though, so I reluctantly said Goodybye to my new buds, but not before I put some leftover fruits on a tree nearby, so that they could eat the fruits later as well.
    We went to the reception and met another G tour member: Roger, a defense lawyer from Canberra, Australia. His tall figure was impressive next to our guides small stature. However, they shared the same name. After deciding that Bernhard, the other person on the list for the city tour hasn't arrived yet, we started walking. Honestly, after yesterday's begging welcome, we were a little bit afraid to have a swarm of begging people around us the second we'd leave for the town. But our worries were unnecessary, as most of the people went on to mind their own business for the whole of our walk. Yes, some greedy eyes fell on our slippy bag, but I didn't feel unsafe walking through the crowds. The streets were crammed with cars and little stalls on the side to sell whatever they could. Cobble stone alleyways were leading steeply towards the top of the city. We learned lots of things from guide-Roger, whilst befriending Australian-Roger. Madagascar has around 29 million inhabitants, whereas 2.7 million were living in the Capital. They have a so-called democracy, however guide-Roger told us that the system isn't working very well. As we sighted a statue from 2009, we understood why. Rebellious citizens didn't want to suck up the sh*t of the president anymore and tried to fight him at the presidents palace. However, the president just shot them and killed everyone trying to get closer to the palace. Nowadays, the 2009 statue is in front of it, to always remind the poor people about the power of the president which he is most certainly demonstrating of you'd ever say something against him. This story made me very sad, especially because the situation for the desperate people was only getting worse.
    Most households in Tana (or Madagascar as a whole) don't have running water, so they have to be at a well-station at a certain time, when a guard would give them water for the day in exchange of money. So they wouldn't have any water unless they've had money. This is honestly cruel in my opinion.
    We also learned that the Malagasy usually don't wash their own clothes, but that they give it to a washing station, where the clothes were being cleaned.
    Another very cruel thing we've learned was about religion. Madagascar has a very high population of Christians, however in the 19th century the queen of Madagascar forbid Christianity. Whoever would go to a church would never come out again, as they were all held captive there, until the church was burned to the ground with them in it. That's why all the churches are made of stones nowadays. Traditionally, the Malagasy people would built their houses with wood, as stones were meant only for the dead. After killing all these Christians in a wooden church, they rebuilt the churches from stone, as there were lots of dead people on these grounds then. Cruel.
    Speaking of cruel, they used to poison people that were possible criminals in the 19th century as well. Whoever survived the poison was innocent, so they believed. It reminds me of the witch hunts in the US and Europe in the middle ages.
    We arrived at the Queen's Palace right on top of Tana at noon, where we went inside of the museum to learn more about the history of Madagascar. Until 1896, there have always been kings and queens, that were coming from multiple kingdoms that eventually immersed into one. Then the colonists came, first England, then France. I don't know whether I understood guide-Rogers broken English correctly, but it seems as if England exchanged Madagascar for Mauritius, which explains why Madagascar drives on the right side whereas Mauritius has left-sided traffic.
    We started our descend again, which was far more exhausting for my knees than going up. At the end, we got a little reward, as guide-Roger bought us some Malagasy cake made of Pistachio and Tapioca which didn't taste too bad. It looked more like a tree trunk, though.
    We finished our tour by getting some water and snacks from the supermarket and said Goodbye to guide-Roger, as well as Australian-Roger, as we've decided to relax the afternoon in our room. In the evening, we had our Welcome Moment with the other tour members in the restaurant. There we met the following lads:
    Mike, a gameplay product manager from Vancouver, Canada, who ticked every box of a nerd.
    Trevor, a very talkative storyteller from Belfast, Northern Ireland.
    Holly, a sturdy, down-to-earth travel agent from England.
    Kate, a seemingly superficial Australian working in Scotch Marketing from London.
    Bernie, a quiet, nice German-speaking person from Vienna, Austria.
    And Solofu, our very calm, non-descriptive tour leader from G Adventures.
    After a rather long, chaotic briefing about what would happen in the next two weeks, we had dinner and chatted until 10pm. I wasn't 100% sure if I'd like the time in Madagascar, but our tour members seemed alright enough to not have a complete disaster of a holiday.
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  • Au Revoir Mauritius, Tongasoa Madagascar

    November 2, 2023 in Mauritius

    Waking up the last morning on Mauritius, we ate our breakfast in peace and packed our luggage again. It was quite a tough task, as we now obviously wanted to put our big autumn clothes into it and only wear some light summer clothes. Nevertheless, we could get everything inside and checked out, thanking Rajesh for hosting us.
    We got in the car and took off to the airport. An hour later, we have filled up the petrol, and gave the car away. Another hour later, we've checked in, got rid of our heavy luggage and sat down at Burger King. Usually, we'd never eat there, as it doesn't really go with our values. However, we craved for some western food and as we weren't sure when we'd get some chips again, we just allowed us to treat ourselves to very unhealthy food. The chips were amazing!
    Finally, boarding time arrived and we took off to yet another francophone country.
    Air Mauritius surprised us with its board entertainment and food, because it is rather unusual for a flight that's only 2hrs long. I played some 2048 and gifted my food to Seb, as I was still full from our BK lunch. Then we descended and landed in Madagascar. After we paid for our On-Arrival-Visa (10€) we got the stamps in our passports and got our luggage. In the entry hall, someone was already waiting for us with a sign, like in the movies. Eugene would transfer us to the hotel today. He was a small, Asian looking guy who had a lot of smiling lines around his eyes. He brought us to the money changer and said "Don't change everything, you can change on the road". We have actually planned to change 1.000€, as we've calculated we'd need about that amount of money for everything. However, when we changed 250€ for a start, we understood why Eugene has said don't change everything. One pack of 20.000 Ariary after another was smashed on the counter until we were literally millionaires. 1€ is 4.773 Ariary... Oh dear. Our wallets aren't used to such a stretch!
    Luckily, we could pay for my data SIM card with cash, and after that was done, Eugene, a porter, Seb and I made our way across the parking lot, until we arrived at a white Toyota that looked as if its best days have been in the last millennium. Our luggage was put in the trunk and Eugene took off to pay for the parking ticket, leaving us alone with the porter. We knew that we should tip him, but what? As we weren't used to that huge of money, and he was saying that the 2.000 Ariary wasn't enough, we just gave him 20.000 and he happily departed. Not ten seconds later, another Malagasy came to us, asking for money and complaining that we would give our porter but not him. "You didn't do anything for us, why should we give you money?", Seb asked and the man got rather angry, but got lost after a few more seconds anyway. Eugene arrived and we took off into the city of Antananarivo (or short Tana). We asked him about the tipping and he said a porter would usually get around 2.000 Ariary. So we made a man very lucky today. As 20.000 Ariary is only a bit more than 4€, we just learned our lesson and moved on from the topic.
    We drove through rice fields and poor looking huts. As we got stuck in a traffic jam, suddenly children were begging on our car windows to give them money. It was hard to ignore them, but I understand why Eugene told us to never give children money. If you give them money, their parents will always use them to get it, e.g. for alcohol or cigarettes. Also, if they beg, they won't go to school, which is the only way in Madagascar (or really anywhere) to become something. Leaving the sad brown eyes behind, we finally arrived in an alley, where Eugene turned the engine off. For a very short second, we thought "Shit, he's going to murder us now", but when he took out our luggage and I saw the sign "Hotel Belvedere", I was relaxed again. Eugene brought us to the reception and gave us his number to contact when we'd need a ride back to the airport. We checked in and went up to our room, which was on the second floor right at the end of the balcony, where you had quite a nice view over Tana. The city was covered by a dome of smog, the loud noise coming from market criers and old engines. Looking down to the hustle and bustle underneath, an older couple came to us and we asked them whether they belonged to the G Adventures tour as well. They did! Paul and Tracy, a retired Jaguar engineer and a retired teacher from Birmingham, England, were a very nice, funny couple we immediately got along with well. We decided to spend the evening together, chatting about old travel stories over dinner in the hotels restaurant. It was very relaxing and if everybody of the G group would be like this, it would be an easy time.
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  • Bustling & Hustling at Central Market

    November 1, 2023 in Mauritius ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today we had planned to go to the Central Market in Flacq, which is the biggest market of Mauritius. It's every Sunday and Wednesday basically the whole day, but as today was All Saints Day and therefore a public holiday, it should only be open until 12pm. So, we hurried up and drove to Flacq, where we got greeted by a proper traffic jam. It took us a while to figure out where we could park and then actually get a parking spot. Once that was done, we threw ourselves into the chaos of the bustling market. You could basically get everything there, from vegetables to fruits, clothes, sweets and souvenirs. We went on the hunt for some souvenirs for our friends at home and got lucky, although there wasn't as much to choose from as expected. Seb wanted to try some more fried street foods, so we got a mix of these, as well as some noodles again. We took it with us to the beach, as the many people around the market (which hadn't closed at 12pm btw) were too much for my social batteries. At the beach though, as it was a public holiday, there were hundreds of people. They all camped there and had taken tables and chairs and barbecues with them. They had loud music on and we're just happy about their freetime. It took us a while to find a quieter spot, but we eventually found it and sat down in the sand to enjoy our noodles. They weren't as good as the ones we had at Enrico's the first day, but instead double the price. Well, you always learn, don't you...
    A rainy weather front arrived at Palmar Beach not ten minutes after we finished our noodles, so we called it a day and drove back to our apartment.
    We relaxed on the terrace for the rest of the day and had my leftovers from yesterday's curry and the fried mix for dinner. Then we went one last time to Carambole Snack, to enjoy the company of our friend Satish once more. We got some Samosas and Rum, until the last guests had paid. Then he sat beside us and we explained him how to play Durak, the Russian card game we alqays play with our friends. I had a lucky streak tonight, as I "won" in every round, whereas Seb had bad luck and became the "Durak" (idiot) each time. It's been fun and just wholesome. We stayed until 11.30pm, as we didn't want to say Goodbye to Satish. But in the end, it was time. We made a selfie with him and Ouioui (his cute little doggo) and hugged each other mutlple times. We started as strangers and parted as friends. And that's what travelling for me is all about.
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  • Driving back the Scenic Route with Joy

    October 31, 2023 in Mauritius ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Although we felt as if a whole day has passed, it wasn't even noon yet. As the sun would still get hotter, we decided to drive to the Peninsule de mangrove and take a nap at a completely empty beach. We were afraid that all the Le Morne hikers would take a break at this beach afterwards as well, but we were the only people there which was a great change to Flic en Flac. Later we were woken up by some dance music. We looked around and saw a big sign stating "International Elderly Dance Contest". That's fun, I thought and wanted to dance with them, however, my legs told me otherwise, so I was happy just watching them having their best time. After a couple of songs, we decided to make our way back home on the scenic route. First we drove by the Chamarel Viewpoint, which wasn't that special. Then we drove higher and higher until we reached the top and arrived at the astounding Gorges Viewpoint. From there you could look over the Black River Gorges National Park and in my opinion: That was a way nicer view than from top of Le Morne. The calm and serenity the whole place was quietly shouting... Amazing. Just stunningly beautiful the whole atmosphere. We watched some pretty fat monkeys going through the trast from all the tourists driving by here. One of them looked more like a fluff ball than an agile monkey, another one was playing with its gum like a human. These monkeys have definitely been around humans way too much. And as a tourist bus with twenty noisy phoneholders arrived, we not only knew how but also to get going. So we left the Gorges Viewpoint behind and drove to our final destination of the Scenic route: Ganga Talao. This is a hindu temple located at a holy lake called the Grand Bassin. Hindus believe that the lake is connected with the Ganges from India. There, the biggest hindu procession of the world (outside India) including 200.000 people, is held yearly. That explains the hundreds of parking spaces that were luckily pretty vacant when we took a short break at the lake. It was all calm and quiet, so that we could enjoy in piece.
    After a few minutes, we jumped back into the car and drove back. The landscape changed from tea plantages to villages and finally the sea again. As usual, we were planning to go to Satishs', however tonight he promised me he'd share the secret of Baja with me. Baja is a formidable treat of cheese fried in oil. I am obsessed with it and I wanted to learn, how you cook it. When we arrived, he led me to the kitchen, put an apron around me and introduced me to Bandia, the cook. She showed me how to do Baja and although I could see that she wasn't happy about my slowliness in the kitchen, she showed me everything patiently. When the Baja was ready, I was able to serve my own made Baja (although Bandia did most of the work) and was happy like a child able to choose any sweets of their liking. Only the Baja would have been totally enough for me, however, Seb got a crab for dinner that was killed in front of our eyes (rather brutally, but I can't think of a better way). I got some veggie dinner as well, but after two bites I knew I wouldn't be able to finish it up, as the long day was haunting me now. I was so exhausted by all the physical work for Le Morne, the early wake up and the long hour drives, that I felt sick. The Dopamin rush from the Baja cooking fading away wasn't helpful either. So, Seb and I cut the night short and left with a full stomach and a new recipe for a guilty pleasure. If you want to have it as well... I think you gotta fly to Mauritius and earn it for yourself :)
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