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Camino de Santiago
  • Mike Orr

Camino de Santiago

A 38-day adventure by Mike Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 2, 2024
    Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Café à Paris

    Apr 1–2, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Rest day between travel days to start point.

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    1

    Over the Pyrenees

    April 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Wow. Did not expect today’s initial hike to be so hard. It was 15 miles and took 7 hours… it was like setting your treadmill on 15 for the incline and doing that straight for 8 hours. Tough day!!

    I know three things about this Camino journey: 1) I’m going to finish in better shape than I started. 2) I’m going to have to get comfortable being in my own sweat all day long (gross!) & 3) I will be sunburned even though I’m being careful (applied sunblock 4 times today)    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    April 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    28 miles done… 472 to go. Today I endured almost 7 hours of conspiracy theory talk by an Irish pilgrim with the gift of gab who decided I needed company on the route today. He never asked me about who I am or anything about me, other than where I’m from, but I know his entire life story now. Highlight though of the day was a random cafe with a death trap of a patio roof where I got a much needed coffee break. After descending into Zubiri, I fell asleep in a field of long grass and wildflowers on the edge of a river. I then enjoyed a “hamburger” (minced ham with an egg on a bun) at the one of two restaurants in town. Tomorrow is the trek to Pamplona. Holding out hope to run with bulls.Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Made it to Pamplona

    April 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    41 miles done… 459 to go. Walk was much easier than the first two days, though my calves were really feeling it after so many accumulated miles. This afternoon was dedicated to indulging myself: a whole pizza was devoured, I had a salt foot bath and feet and calves massage, I visited and toured the cathedral, and I imbibed with an old fashioned while people watching in the square. Tonight, I further indulged with scallops, sirloin, and local wine. And now, I plan to sleep for hours and hours in recovery from both the physical exhaustion and the meat sweats. Day of sightseeing tomorrow and then back on the Camino journey!Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    A Day in Pamplona

    April 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    Today I got up late and went from a coffee and danish, which I realize was late for me (10:00 am) but early on Spanish time. The town doesn’t really start to come alive until well after noon.

    I did laundry at a local place, then wandered the city to see the sights, stopping for a gelato, and accidentally crashed a wedding I mistook for a church service. I wondered why everyone was dressed so nice! I did get to run from bulls, but they were very slow; as if caught in a moment of time, statuesque.

    I came to a place for pintxos, where the bites were amazing, but the experience was so lost in translation that I’m not sure if I didn’t get charged for half my food, or if I was charged twice for everything. Either way, I’m full and I don’t think the waiter or I will never know the answer.

    Restaurants don’t open till 8 or 8:30 at the minimum for dinner, so to kill time, I took a nap. Wandered a bit more and the night started to come alive around 9:00 pm. Every generation, from very young to very old, partying in the streets… and oddly I feel safer here in a crowd than in any city event/crowd in the US.

    Tomorrow is a long walk from pamplona to Puente la Reina, completing 10% of my overall trek.    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    April 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    56 miles done. 444 to go. Today was a long walk, but provided some nice stops for coffee and lunch in small towns along the way. The scenery was spectacular.

    Today I unpacked a lot of baggage emotionally as I walked and it was heavy, but good, stuff. I guess this is what people talk about when they say the Camino not only challenges you physically, but emotionally as well. Without all the distractions that I have in my normal daily life, just walking by myself has given me so much time to focus, think, dwell, ponder, wrestle/struggle, question, heal, and pray.

    My albergue has two things I’ve longed for this past week: a bathtub to soak my sore muscles, and a ceiling fan. It’s amazing how something so little can provide such an opportunity for gratitude!

    As I was sitting out front of my hotel enjoying a glass on wine, I watched as an older gentleman stumbled (but didn’t fall), and was disoriented in what was going on around him, and then became agitated with the restaurant staff in the language barrier as he was needing directions to a laundry facility. I stepped in to help, but that was the beginning of a long journey of assistance all evening to someone who, for many reasons (physically, emotionally, technologically, common sensibly), is beyond his capabilities to continue his Camino journey. It was tough to both support and help him on the personal journey of discernment of what might be a better plan for him over the next several weeks as an alternative to a very physical pilgrimage that is beyond his ability. As I left him, we concluded our conversation on pilgrimage around having “gifts” along the way. I’m holding onto this conversation both in curiosity and hope… What gifts will I encounter along my way? And how can I be a gift to others on their way?    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Puenta la Reina to Estella

    April 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    87 miles done. 413 miles to go. Met a snail friend on the trail today bright and early. I was feeling a bit sluggish, but that could’ve been the fantastic Navarra vino blanco from last night. Met two guys on the trail walking together and joined them for the rest of the day’s walk. Good company, good conversation, good pace. Saw beautiful countryside filled with vineyards, medieval churches, and farmland. Rewarded myself after the long walk with a bacon burger, wine, and more pintxos (no idea what I ate, but all were tasty, although what I thought were onion rings were inedible after having seen My Octopus Teacher (Netflix, 2020). IYKYKRead more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Estella to Los Arcos

    April 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    100 miles done. 400 to go. 20% of the way!!

    Nothing starts the day better than a chocolate croissant, a fresh squeezed orange juice, and a cafe con leche. I’m getting so used to this daily routine, I may start having to incorporate breakfast into my mornings back home.

    You know what else starts the day right? About a mile into my walk, I found the Fuente del Vino. Yes that’s right, a wine fountain! I dumped out my water bottle and enjoyed a pretty good tempranillo over the next few miles of walking.

    Chilly and windy today but I kept my sleeves rolled up because the wind felt amazing on my arms and face as I watched the wind blow through the tall grass around me. The wind was swirling and dancing and it was kind of a magical experience. No, I wasn’t high. Just enjoying the combination of the amazing scenery, crisp air, muscle exhaustion, and tempranillo running through my veins.

    Bryan and I have always dreamt of owning a wine bar. Today, I’m thinking that if we did, we would obviously then have to travel the world sourcing great wine from vineyards… and those travel expenses would be a business write-off, right?    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Los Arcos to Logroño

    April 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    117 miles done. 383 to go.

    Lunch was “the pilgrim’s meal” as typically served in establishments along the Camino. Huge salad with a local cheese selection, perfectly breaded chicken breast with potatoes, a flambéed apple dessert, espresso, AND an entire bottle of local sauvignon blanc. 15 euros! That’s crazy, right? I only had two glasses of wine from the bottle because I still had 6 miles of walking post-lunch.

    Listened to 7 chapters of Nadia Bolz Weber’s audiobook, Shameless, while walking this morning and afternoon. There’s so much that resonates with memories of my upbringing in nondenominational churches in the 80s and 90s and thus my theological understanding shaped by purity culture, “kissing dating goodby,” WWJD, and then 8 years of reparative therapy that I was a part of, between Illinois and Colorado, by my own volition. There’s a lot to unpack with this book/audiobook, and if you’ve had a similar journey and would find it helpful to ever talk about God, faith, sexuality, fear, shame, etc., I’m glad to listen and share our life experiences together. I’m very grateful to those along the way that have been a lifeline to me… some of you who might read this know that you have been that for me, then, and still now. Thank you.

    Today was a super long walking day. Not challenging in the ascents and descents, but challenging in length… stamina of keeping moving over the long distance. I’ve started to notice others who are walking the Camino route limping, slowing down, taking more breaks, and changing out bloody bandages on their feet. I’m grateful my feet are holding up so far, though I’m prepared in case I start to get blisters or hurt myself. I’ve got my routine of stretching, massaging my feet and calves, and applying body glide where I’m feeling the rub. It’s worked…so far.

    But, in all the care for my feet, I neglected to care for the rest of me. And I got sunburned on the backs of my calves after hiking my pants up in the afternoon heat AND I had some sort of allergic reaction to the hotel soap this afternoon. So, there’s that. Not a fun combo. 😞 I gotta be more careful!

    Also, they mix red wine and Coca-Cola here as a cocktail. Kalimotxo is what it is called.
    I had to try it. The verdict is in… it’s good and odd. Sweet and tart. Different. Like me 😜    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Logroño to Nájera

    April 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    136 miles done. 364 to go.

    Whew! Another long day of 19 miles on the Camino. I’m grateful that tomorrow is only 13 miles. While the past week has had sporadic fields of grapevines, today was pretty much solely wine country. Spring is certainly here and the vines are beginning to burst forth from their dormancy with fresh new suckers reaching for the sun.

    Finished Nadia’s audiobook, Shameless, and walked in silence for hours, enjoying the vastness of La Rioja region.

    Small town to stay in tonight, Nájera, which was once the capital city of the Kingdom of Navarre. I arrived after 7.5 hours of walking into a town that was… dead. 3:45 pm. Not a soul to be seen. Like ghost town. This town takes siesta seriously. Most businesses close at 2:00 pm and open back up at 5:00 pm at the earliest, but many later.

    Met two Austrians and one German who are also on Camino and stayed up way too late. Walking the Camino is a matter of self: your feet, your back, your mind, your soul… but the people you meet and the stories shared are the most beautiful part of the journey.    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    April 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    149 miles walked. 351 to go.

    Do you miss carbs? Or, do you crave carbs but wish you could just gorge yourself without any added weight consequences? Have I got a plan for you! All you have to do is walk an average of 18 miles a day in the sweltering heat on the Camino de Santiago and you can eat whatever carbs you desire, and sweat out whatever beverages you fancy, without consequence!*

    Seriously though, I’m eating ALL THE THINGS and simply just have to in order to replenish my body with energy to be able to either recover from my walk, or prepare to conquer the next day. So, I’ve had more bread in the past two weeks than I’ve consumed in the past year. The hunger pangs are real, and this whole siesta time for businesses closing up shop in the afternoon and restaurants not opening until 8:30 is making me crazy! Imma bout to strap a loaf of bread to my backpack and open up shop on the Camino for those of us who need a carb fix.

    But that’s been the yeast of my problems (pun very much intended). Through training over the last several months and these first couple weeks of Camino walking, I’ve worn out my insoles. I thankfully found a sporting good store last night and bought new insoles and the difference is night and day. I think I may actually be able to pull off the 351 miles left!

    This is the point in the trip where everyone is showing off their blisters to one another. I’ve seen some gnarly ones… one the size of a silver dollar on the heel of someone. Another where the blister was long and wrapped itself around the top of the big toe and down between and below the next toe. Another had so many bandaids of his feet, you could barely see any skin showing. Ouch! I’m not able show off any battle wounds, cause I’ve got none. I’m holding up. For now.

    Carb loaded. Vino blanco filled. Sleep deprived. Till tomorrow…

    * Assuming some sense of moderation, but you know, whatever. You do you. You do the Way, your way.    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

    April 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    163 miles done. 337 to go.

    This morning I got up super early to walk because the temperature was in the 80s again. The sun is brutal and getting up and getting the walk over before it is scorching out was a good choice.

    I was up at 5 and out the door by 5:30 am which meant it was dark. Really dark. I can’t remember the last time I was in the pitch dark in the middle of nowhere, but it was amazing. The stars! So bright and I saw the most gorgeous falling star.

    I’m not going to make a habit of getting up early to walk though cause it was slightly dangerous in the ability to see where you are going. I had to use my phone flashlight often. Don’t want to sprain my ankle falling in a ditch!

    The sunrise was behind me but I took lots of time to stop and take it in: the brilliant colors on the horizon highlighting the mountains from which I’d traveled from.

    Having arrived too early in Belorado before check-in at my hostel, I enjoyed the public square and watching people as fluff from local poplar trees floated constantly all around.

    I need sleep, and lots of it. Till tomorrow, friends.    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

    April 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    195 miles done. 305 to go. 39% of the way done!

    From random conversations on the Camino with people from every corner of the earth, I can say that the world waits with bated breath what is happening and how the dramas will play out in the United States… Donald Trump, the world economy that rests on the shoulders of the US economy, the Israel/Palestine/Iran war, mass shootings and gun violence, and more. It’s an odd thing to feel both pride and shame for your country. I’ll be thinking on that a lot more I’m sure as I continue to meet pilgrims and be even more distanced via time from home.

    Today’s journey had every type of road surface. Giant rocks to traverse, gravel, grass, dirt, pavement… it was a long day of walking, 7 hours. But, I made it to my hotel just in time to learn they too also take siesta and didn’t open for a few more hours.

    FaceTimed with my parents and they were happy to see me alive and well. Drank wine in the park at a cafe. And caught up on news from around the world before checking into my hotel. Then it was time to get things done…laundry and shopping.

    My Altra Lone Peak 7 shoes simply couldn’t handle the demands of the Camino. I bought them in December and trained lightly with them, but the treads are now worn completely down on the heels, the padding inside the heels has been rubbed away, and the insoles became paper thin and hurt. Even buying new insoles didn’t save the day. Goodbye old friends. You served me well, but I’ll be contacting customer service with photos because you should have been able to last the journey with me at the very least.

    So, out with the old and in with the new. I found a great store with very knowledgable (and thankfully English speaking) staff who helped me find my new companions for the remainder of this wild journey: Merrell Agility Peak 5s. Pricey, but my feet are worth every penny if I’m to finish the Camino in the next few weeks.

    Best wine tonight of the entire Camino and supposedly only bottled for this restaurant. I’m challenging our good friend and wine connoisseur, Tom Wehr, to find this wine and import it by the case for me. Medium rare steak with a whipped roquefort butter is a heavenly combination worth trying to replicate at home. And finished with a cheese custard made with three cheeses from Spain, France, and Italy on a caramel drizzle base with brown butter crumble. Spoiled myself tonight. #worthit

    Rest day tomorrow in Burgos. Sightseeing at the cathedral, the castle, and museums.

    Night friends!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Burgos rest day

    April 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    195 miles done. 305 to go. 39% of the way.

    Rest day today in Burgos, Spain. Had breakfast and then toured the Cathedral. The immense wealth and treasures from hundreds of years ago was staggering. While walking on the Camino the past few days, I’ve been listening to the audiobook of Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follett that explores the intertwined lives of a stonemason and his family and a monk who rises through the ranks in the church and their subsequent work together in building a cathedral in the 1100s. To be visiting cathedrals and envisioning the cultural and religious landscapes in the time which these cathedrals were being built is a great listening experience while on Camino. I’d read the book before, but it is much different listening and walking in the shadows of these magnificent buildings than simply reading the book back home.

    After the Cathedral, I spent a couple of hours at the Museum of Human Evolution. It was fascinating. Spain is home to some major archeological sites (Atapuerca being the chief among them, which is just outside Burgos). The way that scientists, in their various fields, have been able to piece together our ancestral beginnings and present them in an easy-to-navigate museum was a great learning opportunity. Highly recommend if you are ever in Burgos.

    Dinner was ahhhhmazing. I found a highly rated restaurant in all of Burgos, Restaurante Casa Ojeda (as far as fine dining is concerned because Burger King also had the same amount of stars).

    1. Vino Tinto (local house red wine)

    2. Sopa Castellana (Castilian Soup) Made with garlic, paprika, olive oil, and a boiled egg, garnished with pancetta, and served with crusty bread. If ever on death row, this would be a part of my final meal, just as an FYI.

    3. Confitado de Cordero con Risotto de Verdura (Lamb Confit with Vegetable Risotto) Tender lamb morsels wrapped in prosciutto with an earthy risotto that tempered the sweetness of the au jus.

    4. Esfera de Chocolate (Chocolate Sphere) White chocolate sphere that melted open by poured hot chocolate revealing a sphere of coffee ice cream on top of a toffee crumble.

    5. Vino de Postre (local dessert wine from Castillo y Leon)

    6. Cappuccino con Pastas Dulces (coffee with sweet pastries)

    66€ ($70.09) Crazy, right?!

    If you wonder how I have the time to write these posts, remember I have nothing better to do this entire month than drink cafe con leches, walk, eat, drink vino, and visit the occasional church or museum. Mucho tiempo libre!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    April 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    207 miles done. 293 to go. 41%

    Today was blah. Walked only 12 miles on this leg and one of the shortest distances of all of my planned walking days. The walk today covered the beginning of the Meseta, the central plateau/tableland, of Spain.

    While walking out of Burgos, I walked the backside of the Cathedral which gave another impressive perspective of its enormity. Came across some signs of LGBTQ+ community inclusion, a bench and metalwork art of a pilgrim.

    Came across a little chapel where a nun asked to say a prayer over me for protection on my pilgrimage and then gave me a necklace with a little medallion.

    I should have eaten lunch in Burgos before walking because the dinner options in this little town I’m staying are bleaker than bleak. I settled for a burger and beer at what seemed like the better of the only two restaurants in town. It was easily the worst burger I’ve had in my life. Two stale pieces of crusty bread, a slice of yellowish thin cheese so oily that it was transparent, on a little burger patty that was rubbery yet still very rare at the same time (seems contradictory, right?). No lettuce, tomatoes, onion, pickles, or anything.

    Watched a movie on my phone, Scoop, on Netflix about the relationship of Prince Andrew and Jeffrey Epstein. Was a good flick.

    Off to bed!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

    April 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Another short day of only 12 miles today.
    219 miles done. 281 to go. 44%.

    Yesterday, I was talking with a couple pilgrims about memorial crosses along the way, and we pondered together about how many deaths might occur along the Camino per year. We supposed that heart attacks might lead the way, as well as car accidents, or weather occurrences. Curiosity got the best of me today and I learned that there are often two or three deaths per month on the Camino Frances for precisely those reasons.

    Along the Camino route today, I came across an albergue that has a full fledged spa facility! I thought this morning that I should throw my swimsuit in my daypack, not for any reason other than if I found a great little creek to rest by, I’d have the option to get in the water. I decided I didn’t need the extra 4 oz in my pack, and I’m kicking myself for it. I definitely would have spent the 25 euros to have a spa afternoon there! Should I ever be on the Camino Frances again, I’ll be definitely staying in Hontanas. https://alberguessantabrigida.com/hidroterapia-…

    I also found a castle home that I think Bryan would approve of. It has a fun statue fountain of a man peeing. lol

    Small town, not a lot to do. after my walk, I had a couple glasses of wine at a local watering hole surrounded by locals after work was over for them. And then took a nap for two hours, just in time to wake up for dinner. Or so I thought…

    Small town here, but they have 7 restaurants. I went to all of them! And not in a good way. I walked from one to another to another to find every single one closed. Learned that they all either take Thursdays off, or, they aren’t open yet for the season. Decided that bars here typically have food, so thought I’d give that a shot. The first two bar’s kitchens weren’t open tonight but the third bar (which I think was the last option) had a short list of food options… of the three options (patatas bravas, finger de pollo, jalapeño chedar), I chose the last two and at least now I have food in my belly.

    I’m going to need a big breakfast. Till tomorrow, night!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Castrojeriz to Frómista

    April 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    235 miles done. 265 to go. 47%…almost half way!

    8 hours of walking today, but had great company with my audiobook, Pillars of the Earth, by Ken Follett. Bugs were very active today and it was annoying, but nothing to really do about it. Just blow your nose with like a dozen bug visitors in it, and do it again, and again.,. (Also, I found one in my teeth once I finally got to a mirror in a proper bathroom). Fiber.

    Got to my destination of Fromista and had drinks with two gals from Australia and a guy from Canada. Then off to my hotel which, and not an exaggeration, is an oasis. It is appointed nicely, and I took advantage of it. The Camino knows when you need a break. A real break. Like a shower with good water pressure. A little (very cold) dipping pool to put your sore feet in for a bit. A bottle of wine all to yourself for the afternoon with good WiFi to reconnect with your husband and life. And several hours where you have no expectations on yourself other than to just be. The entire place is encompassed by a soothing spa fragrance that is clean, inviting, and soothing. That was today. I needed it. And the Camino provided.

    In Spain, they don’t ask you how you like your meat cooked. And even if you have the foresight to try to tell them, it doesn’t actually matter. It will come from the kitchen as done as they like. Always rare at the top end, very rare often, and mooing if they are really busy. It is what it is, and you sometimes hope your beef tartare is of the quality that you won’t be heaving 4 hours later. (So far so good here)    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Frómista to Carrión de los Condes

    April 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    246 miles done. 254 to go. 49%…almost half way!

    Very short walk today and walked most of the way with Dianne and Sharon, a couple from Australia. They are a hoot and fun to talk to. Mostly grass fields and graveled paths today with very little elevation changes.

    Went to mass at the Catholic Church in town and then had a late pilgrim’s dinner. Tomorrow I will be at 50% of the total distance and as of today, I’m 21 days away from kissing Bryan again. It is true that distance makes the heart grow fonder. I’m missing a piece of me, and Bryan is that piece.

    Night!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de

    April 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    262 miles done. 238 to go. 52%…I’m over half way!!

    16 miles walk today, so was a longer short walk today. Unfortunately in this season of the Camino, the Meseta, the scenery is quite bland. Just long grass, rapeseed (yellow flowing plant from my which canola oil is made from the seeds), and newly tilled dirt, everywhere. Nothing like the beginning of the Camino where at almost every peak, you gasp with taking in the beauty before you.

    Staying at the most rural of the alburgues I’ve stayed at thus far… it’s like a small farm just along the side of the road. But, I bought a bottle of their most expensive local rioja (12 €), and enjoyed it in the sun for 10 minutes (cause I just need a little color without getting burned) and then moved to the cooler shade.

    Had the pilgrims dinner full of carbs and then talk with Bryan before heading to bed. Night!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercian

    April 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    280 miles done. 220 to go. 56%…over half way

    16 miles walk today, and met several people along the way for whom the pain of blisters, or a hurt ankle, or other malady is a struggle. Prayers for them as they slowly push through their pain on the Camino.

    Around lunchtime, I found a little place that advertised pizzas. I’d been craving one. They had many options, but I chose the Tex Mex one and it was fantastic to have some spicy food… Spanish food (at least that I’ve encountered) isn’t spicy at all and is fairly bland, similar to English food. The Tex Mex pizza hit the spot.

    Dinner was a typical pilgrims meal… and bland. lol.

    Downloaded a couple episodes of Franklin on AppleTV and watched them before bed. Amazing forefather of the US who was gifted in so many various ways.

    Till tomorrow—    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de

    April 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 39 °F

    296 miles done. 204 to go. 59%!

    Coming near the end of the Meseta and the farmland as far as you can see. I’m excited to get past León and enter the last 200 miles of the journey. Especially looking forward to having my second and last rest day in Leon to do laundry and relax my legs a bit.

    It was chilly today and I feel like I can’t get warm enough. Still, wearing sandals at the end of the daily walk feels amazing, so I added socks to my sandals. Not just socks, but toe socks. So yeah. Judge me. You’d have done the same. On the Camino, all sense of fashion or what is right or proper is out the window. I saw a couple at breakfast who were wearing “long johns,” but not the kind that you wear skiing. They were very thin and black, like thicker pantyhose, and they were wearing them over their white underwear, at breakfast. Pretty much entirely see-through, with his tighty-whities and her granny-panties all bunched up underneath the black hosiery. So, we all wear what we have, what may or may not be semi-clean (I really really need to find a laundry tomorrow), and we just roll with it.

    Joined a table of pilgrims tonight and traded lots of stories and reasons why we are on the Camino. The consensus was really “why not?” and “finding myself.” Same.

    León tomorrow and rest day there the next. Needed!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Mansilla de las Mulas to León

    April 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 37 °F

    308 miles done. 192 to go. 62%!

    There were no cars coming. I looked both ways. There wasn’t a cross walk, so I crossed. Immediately after getting to the other side of the street, two police officers appeared and motioned for me to come to them. Immediately there was a pit in my stomach. Was I going to be arrested for jaywalking?

    The León police asked me for my passport. So, I got out my US passport and they looked at it and said excitedly, “Colorado!” What they really wanted though was my Camino passport. And out of one of their vests, they pulled their little stamp device in order to give me a stamp in my Camino passport. Then they said “Goodbye Colorado!” and walked away.

    I’m so glad I’m not in jail for jaywalking. But now I have a fun police stamp in my Camino passport (see pics).

    Toured the Cathedral, ate a huge lunch of pasta and cheese, did laundry, took a nap, met up with my Australian gals, late dinner. Tomorrow is a rest day here in León. Gonna do all the touristy things. Very long walk on Friday, so I’ll need the rest. Buenas noches!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    11

    León Rest Day

    April 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    308 miles done. 192 to go. 62%!

    Day in Leon. I had a slow morning after sleeping till 9:00 am, then spent an hour at a cafe eating breakfast and deciding what to do with my day.

    Went to the Museo Casa Botines Gaudi and learned all about Gaudi’s architectural style and influences. Then dropped by the meat and fish market and once I saw you can buy a whole head of a cow, I was out. Eww.

    Then, just like every other town along the way, it was 1:30 pm and every business closes up shop for siesta. And then… it rained. Fiercely for the rest of the afternoon, and the forecast is for off and on rain the next 10 days. Ugh. I’ll have to time my walking to the forecast of the lightest rain. Tomorrow is a 20 mile day, so I’m sure I’ll need to find cover at some point to escape the weather.

    Met up with some fellow pilgrims for drinks and tapas for dinner and then caught up on the news (and what the heck is going on with the stock market?! 😬).

    Check out the view from my hotel room! Couldn’t be closer to the Cathedral! Gotta get up early-ish to walk and beat the rain. Night!    Read more

  • Mike OrrCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    2

    León to Hospital de Órbigo

    April 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    328 miles done. 172 to go. 66%!

    Woke up and hit the road. I noticed that Spain treats Thursday nights like the start of the weekend and everything is closed on Fridays until late morning. Even cafes. So I started on my way at 8:00 am and walked for 3 hours before I found an open cafe. Had a quick coffee and then walked another 3.5 hours to my destination, Hospital de Órbigo. The walk itself wasn’t scenic… it was mostly along the side of highways and through industrial areas on the outskirts of Leon.

    Hadn’t eaten breakfast or lunch, so I grabbed a burger at a little bar nearby the hotel after walking in mid-afternoon which sufficed for both lunch and dinner. I still have yet to have a good burger here in Spain.

    The Comic Sans font is used EVERYWHERE in Spain. On municipal signage, on menus, on billboards and other advertisements… really. It’s maddening! The only place this font should be used is in daycare centers as a cheerful font for 4 or 5 year olds who are learning to read. That’s it. Stepping down off soapbox now…

    Had a zoom meeting this evening with others who I will be walking with on the Portuguese Camino in October. I’m looking forward to seeing how that landscape differs from the Camino Frances.

    Rain, rain, and more rain forecast for tomorrow. Looks like it’ll be a wet day!    Read more

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