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Karađorđev Park

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    • RejsendeThe Balkans
      Dag 17

      Podgorica Old Town

      21. juli 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

      Today was the only full day I had in Podgorica, and there were only a few things I really wanted to do. As a result, I allowed myself to sleep in and began heading to the Millenium bridge shortly after a feed and a chat to the folks. The bridge wasn't overly exciting, but the river that ran through looked beautiful. I regretted not bringing a towel, and after some debate whether it was worth going back, I decided I may as well continue. The next stop was the 'Orthodox Temple of Christ's Resurrection'. This was much more impressive than the bridge. As you turn the corner, a tall and wide building appears in the middle of nothing, out in the distance. Although it's in the city centre, they have left a large space surrounding it for whatever reason, but it does add to the magnificence of the building. This church was interesting because it was designed very differently to the other churches in Europe. It was built by an array of smaller and larger cylindrical shapes. All combined to make one especially large cylinder. It's hard to explain it, really.

      The final thing I wanted to see was the old town. Given how interesting and cool the old towns of Kotor and Budva were, I had some pretty high expectations. The entrance was really cool. You crossed an old cobblestone bridge and walked through some ruins. But the old town itself resembled something closer to a ghetto rather than an old town. It was incredibly disappointing. I walked through it for about 5 minutes and then started looking for a way out. I didn't even take many pictures. Seeing everything in Podgorica took maybe 3 hours. They are all quite close together and not much to look at for too long. The church was by far the best. With everything done, I headed back to the hostel to chill for a bit.

      I had a craving for nachos after Jack had shared a photo of his from Spain. And so went on the look for a mexican restaurant. Given that it was a Friday night, it was even more lively than yesterday. People were out in force, and the atmosphere was awesome. There wasn't much to see in Podgorica, but there was still a lot of life in the city. After I eventually found a restaurant, I ordered the nachos and was pleasantly surprised about how good it was. It was huge, too. I barely got through it before being sent into a food coma in my bed.      Læs mere

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    • RejsendeATTO 3- POGDORICA MONTENEGRO
      Dag 1

      ATTO 3 CAP 1- IL TRAMONTO A PODGORICA

      1. juni 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      EP 1 | Mi domandai una volta approdato in terra Montenegrina quale fosse il vero senso d’iniziare dalla fine di una storia per tornare a all’inizio che concettualmente intendiamo per paradiso dopo aver capito quella stessa storia.

      Perciò Il terzo atto del mio personale viaggio all’inferno si apre con la vista del tramonto e della nostalgia di casa che in quell'ora del giorno mi nasce quasi sempre nel cuore come se avessi perso la strada giusta, specie quando sento il suono dell’Adhan della sera (probabilmente l'ora canonica della compietà degli uomini che sperano in qualcosa)

      mi rendo conto che ciò è un evidente riferimento alla situazione momentanea del sole che al tramonto ha una sua particolare intensità, che risveglia i sentimenti, specialmente di chi ha iniziato a navigare come me in solitudine tra i meandri infernali e che avverte una forte tenerezza pensando a ciò che ha lasciato è perduto nel tempo.

      Il mio pensiero più concettuale infatti, va a quelle persone che in una commedia più alta della mia vengono messi nell’antepurgatorio in questo caso a Pogdorica. Dalla via desolata nei dintorni della capitale sentii l’incantevole chiamata del Meuzzin per i vaganti che allontanandosi dalla terra si sentono destinati verso un nuovo e sconosciuto futuro.      Læs mere

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    • RejsendeMit dem Velo durch Europa
      2
      Dag 45

      Podgorica - muss man nicht gesehen haben

      24. juni 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Nach meinem Durmitor Nationalpark - Abenteuer ging es weiter in Richtung Küste. Gerne wäre ich nach Kotor gefahren, aber auf meinem Weg nach Albanien wäre das ein mittelgrosser Umweg gewesen. Schade, nun muss halt Ulcinj "herhalten". 😅
      Mehr oder weniger zweckmässig bin ich nun in der montenegrinischen Hauptstadt Podgorica gelandet. Meine Fahrt hierher war eine Mischung aus allem: Hauptstrasse, Bergpässe, Wälder, Wiesen, Dörfer, aber vor allem sehr viel Abfall! Krass was da alles in den Gräben, ausgetrockneten Flussläufen und generell neben der Strasse liegt. Unterwegs habe ich alleine 3 Autofahrer beobachtet, welche ihre Aludosen in hohem Bogen aus dem Auto geworfen haben - einer sogar direkt auf die Strasse. So etwas ist schwierig zu verstehen und lässt einen sprachlos zurück. (PS: Schwarze Schafe gibt es in jedem Land, auch in unserer ach so perfekten Schweiz)
      130 Kilometer waren es bis nach Podgorica und wie gesagt, man verpasst absolut nichts, wenn man nicht hier war. 😂 Ich werde mich hier einen Tag ausruhen, ein paar Kleinigkeiten am Velo anpassen lassen und Kleider waschen.

      In diesem Sinne wünsche ich euch ein schönes Wochenende. ❤️      Læs mere

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    • RejsendeSummer Road Trip 2024
      Dag 33

      Bus to Budva in a Storm

      18. august, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      The walk to the bus station is the worst bit: Clammy and sweaty, then a wait for the bus to finally arrive - almost on time. Saw a very interesting looking man by the supermarket entrance who looked to be. getting some grief from the police in a parked car next to him.
      Thank goodness there's somewhere to shelter from the sun, then the rain. All morning it's been promising thunder and lightening. Just before getting on the bus, the angels started. shouting at us from above. When it rains here, it's a week's worth at a time.
      Usually it's a fairly interesting view out the window on the way to Budva. Today was a non-event as the humidity and cold rain smeared a mist over the outside of the bus window - couldn't see much at all, but Budva was dry.
      Buddha's okay in small doses i.m.h.o. It's much too 'touristy' for my refined tastes. I set off for a walk to the Old Town (the interesting bit) but ran out of time before the return bus back to Tivat. So I had a quick stroll around an open market, again saving myself a fortune by not buying anything.
      Back at Tivat bus station, there was the interesting looking man again, sitting on a waste bin outside the supermarket. It looked like he'd not moved at all, so I had a chat with him. What an interesting character he was too. Senal spoke excellent English (and German apparently), had worked in London and had a life story to tell:
      If I understood him correctly, he'd had a ruptured intestine that nearly killed him (big scar to show for it). Apparently, the supermarket car park was where he spent most of his time - keeping the area clean and tidy as a voluntary gesture/gift to the people using it.
      Unfortunately, I only had my phone with me, so the photos of him are not technically the best.
      Y'see what fascinating people there are, right under your nose where you least expect them to be.      Læs mere

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    • RejsendeLet loose solo in Europe 2024
      Dag 10–13

      Prodgorica Montenegro

      13. september, Montenegro ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Managed to negotiate taxi to NoviSad Station and pay by card. Obtaining a seat reservation for the train from the lady at the ticket desk was not so easy. I smiled and said 'dobra den' and then showed her a translation of what I required on Google translate. Lots of tutting and huffing, then with a perfect take on a Mr Hitler, said 'ticket, TICKET'!
      Still smiling through gritted teeth at 07.45am, I showed her the Interail pass with details. Unimpressed, she repeated her demand. Quick as a flash, out came the phone to say 'I HAVE A TICKET I ONLY WANT A SEAT RESERVATION' Lots of muttering...,'CARTE'. Then it wouldn't do contactless, so ' PIN' then demanded, at which point I enquired if that was a hat pin or a safety pin she wanted. Totally ignored me and finally provided me with a reserved seat. Really set me up for the day.😡
      There were directions to every platform on that station but NOT mine!
      I found a scarecrow with a railway jacket on, and he took me to the train. I thought at first he had been sleeping on the station.
      The next many hours were just boring, except when a Serbian lady started talking to me. We had a conversation neither of us understood, and even using the translator didn't help. It was hugely entertaining, and many more people joined in. All Serbian! She gave me her phone number much to the amusement of all involved.
      We had to change trains after 8 hours and be checked out and in at the Border. Absolute Chaos. Nobody would get off the train. Some had and were involved in a raucous argument on the platform. Man in blue uniform, hat, epaulettes, and 2 pistols got on the train. He had a date stamp in one hand a swipe machine in the other. He picked random travellers. Then suddenly there were 3 more. One more like him checking us out and the others checking us in Hilarious!
      The rest of the journey, yep 3 more hours, was taken up with the scenery. The pics are not brilliant, but you get the idea. This train stops running between 16th Sept and April. It's hair-raising enough now. Would be dicing with death in winter!
      Relieved to arrive, the taxi man said a card was good for payment. It was until we reached my destination. Ridiculous man kept repeating 10 dinars. I made him find an ATM and got some cash. Bleeping euros. If he had said euros, I had euros and had told him so.
      Hotel weird when you get to reception. There are odd sorts of shops along the corridor, and then suddenly it opens into reception. Booked in and immediately went out to get something to eat. Didn't feel especially safe in the dark, so I kept moving fast as if I knew exactly where I was.
      I am in now, watching all manner of indecipherable stuff on TV. My body still thinks it is on the train.🤭
      The train was travelling at considerable height with a sheer drop most of the way on my side!!      Læs mere

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    • RejsendeATTO 3- POGDORICA MONTENEGRO
      Dag 2

      ATTO 3 CAP 2- I TRADITORI DELLA PATRIA

      2. juni 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      EP. 2 | Vidi con i miei stessi occhi, un amico o più di uno perdersi nel tradimento più ideologico del termine, in base al posizionamento su cui posassero i loro piedi nel commettere un errore, con il dilemma di chi per loro reputassero spalleggiante nel momento decisionale, il dilemma sulla territorialità:

      O imbrocchi la direzione sbagliata, O semplicemente diventi il malvagio per costui

      E per qualche ragione...
      Le ragioni possono essere diverse, ma nonostante ciò alla fine, lo stesso rapporto che una volta fosse solido tra compagni patrioti, nel giro di attimi, il legame tra vecchi amici venne seriamente danneggiato, se non completamente spezzato. Invece d’affetto e comprensione, almeno uno di essi prova avversione, sfiducia e sdegno per gli altri, se non addirittura odio vero e proprio a causa di ciò che l'altro dannato non ha fatto.

      In un’ ottica futura come i verbi usati ma che possono essere al tempo passato:
      Può capitare ancora una volta, che i fratelli inizieranno a combattersi o evitarsi, portando alla fine dell'epidosio un senso separatista etnico, e ciò significa guerra sui confini per la conquista di fazzoletti da poter bruciare all’inferno tra i gironi infami di traditori.      Læs mere

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    • RejsendeATTO 3- POGDORICA MONTENEGRO
      Dag 3

      ATTO 3 CAP 3- EX AMICI RUSSI IN MONTENEG

      3. juni 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      EP. 3 | C’è solo una domanda: “Perché dopo tutto quello che ho fatto mi hai trascinato giù?”
      Quesiti impressi sui muri alle porte dei dannati.

      L’inferno che continua- il nono cerchio, dedicato ai traditori degli ospiti, in terra di Montenegro in quel di Pogdorica, si susseguivano stati d’animo differenti e contrapposti, desideri di vendetta, speranze di poter recuperare l’amico di una volta tanto caro, rancoroso con sensi di vuoto. L’aspettative di quegli ex compagni delusi che avevamo investito su quegl’altri, svanirono come tempi che furono, di una madre patria-come una Russia di padre, non rimase che un ricordo vulnerabile e fragile di cui ne faccio parte anch’io al contempo.

      Se avesse capito o potuto capire a cosa stesse andando incontro? Quale sarebbe stata la contro-azione Putiniana più radicata?

      Stop stop un momento, per capirci, i riferimenti del discorso sono i seguenti che elencherò:
      Il cambiamento del passaggio da parte del Montenegro alla combriccola europea lasciando le tanto amiche Serbia e Russia.

      Probabilmente qualche cambiamento più o meno evidente nelle consuetudini del rapporto preventivo al tavolino con il vecchio amico di sempre, il filorusso e forse l’evoluzione che attraversa ogni patriota insospettabile che richiamò qualcuno al grido “al lupo al lupo”
      o una qualche temporanea urgenza emotiva che avesse “distratto” l’ex amico dal rapporto di condivisione per poi cancellare quel vissuto insieme di tante cose. Poco importa, di colpo si trovarono messi sul banco degli imputati, orfani di una parte di moralità e redenzione.

      Da una sponda l’amico su cui ci fu la proiezione della parte migliore di essi, quella che amavamo di più, fino a farlo diventare il loro “doppio” in cui potevamo rispecchiarci e finendo per essere come quelli che avevano appena traditori. La loro perdita porta con sé la perdita di una parte di ambo le parti.      Læs mere

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    • RejsendeATTO 3- POGDORICA MONTENEGRO
      Dag 4

      ATTO 3 CAP 4 OLTRE A QUELLE CASE LÀ

      4. juni 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      EP. 4 | Camminavo, o meglio dir vagabondavo per una strada infuocata dal cemento fumante del mezzogiorno, tutte le mie speranze furono riposte all’ombra di quelle case enormi prefabbricate che iniziavo a intravedere sul lato sinistro dei marciapiedi al di là degli alberi. S’innalzavano verso il cielo, dei blocchi senz’anima, come fossero prigioni infernali poste sulla terra per gente umile e prive d’ambizione e vinti dalla loro stessa vita inermi di ideali contrastanti.

      Mi stavo dirigendo lentamente verso le così dette “krusciovke” che dovevano durare solo una ventina di anni, il tempo di costruire il comunismo, ma erano tuttora in piedi, sparse sul territorio di tanti Paesi ex-sovietici proprio come nel caso della capitale montenegrina di Pogdorica, fatiscenti e sul punto di crollare intrappolano ancor oggi in catene oramai (quasi) spezzate da un tempo passato, anime che da qui non se ne sarebbero mai andate.

      Il sole cuocente e il vapore dall’asfalto rendeva la vista di quel posto marchiato indelebilmente dagli anni di servitù alla madre patria e dagli anni 50/60 rende ancor più tutto surreale. Ad occupare così centinaia di ettari per razzolare tra i peccati e pentimenti, lontano dalla città, c’erano “quei loro” che si trovano in cattive condizioni non addate alla vita progressista, fallendo una redenzione per un futuro in paradiso.      Læs mere

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    • Robert FyfeBuzzing Round The Balkans
      1
      Dag 4

      Montenegro - Podgerica

      5. august 2022, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

      I was up early to make sure I made it to the bus station on time for the next section of my trip, which involved me missing my breakfast at Hotel Lula (no great loss there). Sarajevo East bus station is not the most accessible transport hub, and involved me taking a trolley bus on a 30 minute journey to the suburbs. I don’t think I’ve been on a trolley bus since the mid-sixties when they were still running in Glasgow. My granny used to call them ‘the silent death’ because, unlike the clanking trams, you couldn’t hear them coming.

      Although I had booked my bus ticket online, I was told on arrival at the bus station that I had also to buy a platform ticket from the booking office (for the ‘privilege’ of using the bus station), and pay to store my case on the bus. Although very small amounts (about a Euro each), this seems common practice in this part of the world. Two fellow passengers objected to the luggage charge, and were adamant their rather large backpacks would fit under their seats on the bus which, with much pushing and shoving, they eventually did.

      We were now off on a marathon 6.5 hour bus journey from Sarajevo to Podgorica, capital city of Montenegro 🇲🇪 . It actually turned out to be a very pleasant trip with only 6 passengers on a 20 seater coach, and a couple of comfort breaks en route. The scenery throughout was outstanding - beautiful tree covered mountains, deep canyons and alpine valleys. The two border checks leaving Bosnia and Hercegovina and entering Montenegro were fairly swift, and the scenery became even more majestic as we skirted the Durmitor National Park with its glittering glacial lakes and limestone peaks. Views of the impossibly green River Piva were breathtaking, as our coach sped round bends and through mountain tunnels.

      After this big build up, Podgorica itself came as a bit of a let down. It was very small scale for a capital city, and didn’t have the buzz of restaurants / bars / cafés etc I had become used to. It had no major attractions to speak of, and the Old Town bore no resemblance to those of Dubrovnik or Sarajevo. Although it was Friday night there were few folk about and the grey soviet style blocks did little to soften the atmosphere. It was like a wet weekend in Paisley! In fairness there are a few lovely park areas and a new Millennium Bridge, and the city itself is quite small with only 200,000 residents. Ah well, early to bed methinks, which is just as well as the electricity has gone off and whole hotel has been plunged into darkness!      Læs mere

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    Karađorđev Park, Karadordev Park

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