Plaza Mayor

We tried a Lima tour through the GetYourGuide app. We had a private car pick us up at the hotel. Then it went Wild West. First there are no rules for driving in Peru. None. You can cut over without signaling you can park your cart in the middle of a three lane highway, or let your dog sleep in the middle of the road. The only thing that would give you any pause would be the cost, time, hassle and police bribe that would ensue from a collision. Other than that anything goes. Add cars, vans, tuck tucks , buses filled to the gills with workers, large trucks and construction vehicles, swarms of motorbikes of every kind and temperament, street vendors, pedestrians and the odd cart of junk. Oh and traffic officers that wave a flag while engrossed in their cell phone. Lights do seem to stop most traffic, but there are exceptions. Lines and stripes are completely optional decorations that have no meaning whatsoever . All this combines into impressive traffic jams. I thought Mexico was scary. I would never, ever drive a car in Lima. It took 45 minutes to go 8km to the Plaza San Martin. So I would describe the major plazas in Lima as new world neoEuropean architecture. It was interesting, but as it is much more geographically active, the earthquakes and tsunami have taken their toll. Think of it as a cinder block Baroque rebuild. The tough thing Peruvians have going for them is the long term government corruption and economic chaos of the 1980s an 90s with inflation of 10,000%. Holy carp. They’re lucky to still be here and there’s been heroic progress. But things have a heavy care worn, hard scrabble feel. Anyway, the capitol is sort of on lockdown due to protestors, so walking around squares is cool, but not through them. We toured the Franciscan monestary and their extensive catacombs. Oddly and disappointingly the sanctuary wasn’t even included. But we did get to see an interesting version of The Last Supper: a round table, a demon whispering into Judas’ ear, the Sun and Moon (obvious native symbology) at an equal perspective of the crucifix resplendent. Oh, and Jesus is serving his apostles Cuy (guinea pig), potatos (discovered here) and native peppers. The drinks are not wine, but native beer. Back home through The Wild West part II and a Pisco sour and dinner at the surprisingly good airport Wyndham restaurant called Paprika.Read more