Portugal
Santarém

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    • Day 26

      Tomar

      May 19, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Tomar is a small town in central Portugal that has an outsized historical footprint. This is where the headquarters of the Knights Templar in Portugal was located (see additional posts). This post looks at the town itself.
      When the Romans were here, this was called Sellium. After the expulsion of the Moors in the 12th century, the site was granted to the Templars who became the feudal lords. The town developed, 1st within the walls and later expanded outside the fortress walls. Today the old town is located around the foot of the hill upon which the fortress is built. The newer town is beyond the old town.
      The 1st picture is the view from my room. That is the castle and convent on the hill. The 2nd picture is the church of St. Mary of Olival that dates to at least the 12th century, though the current building is a 13th century renovation. Many Templars are buried here.
      The 3rd picture clearly demonstrates the importance of the Templars to Tomar. That's a city sidewalk with Templar crosses everywhere. The 4th picture is s city park with a waterwheel designed to lift water, probably originally for irrigation. The 5th picture is a view over the town from the castle. The 6th picture is a formal garden in a park at the foot of the castle hill. The 7th picture is in the best preserved medieval synagogue is Portugal. It dates to the middle of the 15th century. You can see the Torah in the ark.
      The 8th picture is the main square, Republic Square. The stature is the 1st grand master of the Portuguese Templars, Gualdim de Pais. The 9th picture is a typical street in the old town.
      The 10th picture is part of the Camino de Santiago, the famous pilgrimage path. The Portuguese route passes through the castle and convent.
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    • Day 27

      Templar Castle and Convent of Christ

      May 20, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      This is, for me, the main attraction in Tomar. The castle/monastery was founded in the early 12th century by the Order of the Poor Knights of the Temple, the Knights Templar. In the 13th century, Tomar became the seat or main headquarters of the entire order.
      When the Knights Templar Order was dissolved in the middle of the 14th century and at the urging of the king of Portugal, a new order, the Order of Christ, was proclaimed by the Pope. In Portugal, the members and assets of the Templars were transfered to the new order. The Templar fortress became the Convent of Christ and headquarters of the new order.
      This is an incredibly spectacular space, so much so that it has been the setting for many movies. In fact, filming was in progress during my visit. So significant parts of the convent were closed. Oh well.
      The 1st picture is the main gate. The next 5 pictures are various cloisters scattered throughout the convent. I don't think I've ever seen a monastery with more than one cloister. Here are 5, and others were in the closed section. The 2nd picture catches a corner of the church (see another post) above th cloister. The 3rd picture is the hospitality cloister for pilgrims, clergy, traveling brothers, etc. Social standing determined which floor one was lodged. Higher standing, higher floor.
      The 7th picture is the church (see another post), and the 8th picture is the ornate Manueline window. This open into the chapter house (closed). The Manueline decorations, named for King Manuel I, celebrate the age of discovery.
      The 9th picture is an arched hallway in the convent.
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    • Day 27

      Templar Church

      May 20, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Given that the Templar Fortress/Convent of Christ is the main event in Tomar for me, then the main event in the main event is the church. I was simply blown away. The church is round with a squared off later addition.
      The 1st picture is from the outside. You can see the round section to the right which was the original part of the church. In order to build suspense gradually, I'll start with the later, rectangular addition. It contains 2 choirs: the upper in the 2nd picture and the lower, directly below the upper, in the 3rd. The low window in the 2nd picture below the upper choir opens on the lower choir. The entry to the church is in the rectangular space between the choirs and the main, original, part of the church. The 4th picture is a small side chapel off the main church.
      The rest of the pictures are in the round church that dates to the 12th century. The high roof, the artwork, the free standing central nave, the carving and so much more took my breath away. I hope these few pictures give you some small idea of the awe I experienced here. I even backtracked to visit the church again, and I still left stunned.
      I'm told that the design may have been in influenced by the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and the Dome of the Rock, both in Jerusalem. That's seems feasible given the Templar presence there and their devotion to that city. Also, it seems that the design provides for Templar knights to be able to ride their horses into the church and around the Charola, as it's called, to receive a blessing immediately before departing on a journey. I just love the practicality!
      I don't think I've ever suggested that some place I've been is a must see. But if you are at all into history, the Templars, art, or even church architecture, you need to come here. It's that big a deal.
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    • Day 15

      Aveiro et Tomar

      September 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Routine habituelle, on part de Coimbra vers 10h00. Maintenant direction Aveiro, le Venise du Portugal. C'est une ville située sur la côte ouest du Portugal, au bord d'un lagon nommé Ria de Aveiro. "Cette ville se caractérise par ses canaux sur lesquels naviguent des barques colorées (barcos moliceiros), traditionnellement utilisées pour la récolte d'algues." Nous en profitons pour faire un tour et le guide nous montre l'eau dans un bidon qui est effectivement transparente. C'est donc les algues au fond du canal qui donne la couleur verte de l'eau. De plus, dans la ville, non loin du centre se dresse la cathédrale d'Aveiro, ornée d'un imposant clocher. C'est une belle ville, mais je m'étais tellement fait vanter la beauté que je suis un peu déçu malheureusement.

      Vu les circonstances, on se dit qu'on peut se rendre à l'autre ville mise sur l'itinéraire : Tomar. Bon, là nous avons été conquis. Une magnifique ville près d'une grande rivière où plusieurs ponts anciens nous amènent de l'autre côté de la rive. C'est vraiment beau! On marche dans cette splendide ville où beaucoup d'art et de culture y sont significatifs. Un ancien camping y est aménagé pour les campervan, parfait pour nous cette nuit. Pas compliqué de même, on aime ça !! :)
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    • Day 23

      Fatima..die Verbindung zum Himmel

      February 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

      Ich musste den Platz verlassen, da ich ungefähr eine halbe Stunde bitterlich geweint habe..aber das waren nicht meine Tränen. Ich habe soviel Verzweiflung, Trauer und Machtlosigkeit gefühlt, je näher ich den Menschen stand, desto mehr liefen die Tränen, war ich vom Platz, beruhigte ich mich.
      Ich habe Frauen und Männer gesehen, die auf Knien über den ganzen Platz gerobbt sind, wohl in der Hoffnung, dass die Heilung schneller voranschreitet ..
      Oft ist meine Feinfühligkeit ein Fluch!!!
      Aber ich konnte eine Kerze anzünden und meine Herzenswünsche senden.
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    • Day 3

      Day 3 - Azambuja to Valada

      April 3, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      Today was a short day of only 9 miles hiking. We pushed fairly hard the first two days, 16 and 18 miles. We are both a bit sore with a few minor blisters on our feet, but we're feeling great to be here and enjoying Portugal.

      Although the busy season has not begun, all the alburges are pretty full, so we're going to have to start making reservations so we don't end up having to do an unexpectedly long hike. The next alburges from here is 12 miles (total of 20 miles for the day). And since we have a whole month to do the hike, we're not in an awful hurry.
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    • Day 4

      Day 4 Valada to Santarém

      April 4, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      Day 4. Total distance today: 11.90 miles. After a nice breakfast prepared by our fabulous host at Casal das Areis, we were on our way once again. I got a special treat this morning when Paso Doble, the horse, let me give him a scratch behind the ears. Today, was a lovely walk for the most part, partially because we didn’t have to walk on cobblestones until we arrived at our destination town, but also we strolled passed grape vines and enjoyed a welcome breeze for much of the day. The temps are supposed to get to 80 later on, and as we climbed the long hill to get to Santarém, we could feel the heat of the day rising.Read more

    • Day 5

      Day 5, Santarém to Golega

      April 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      High five for day 5! We started this morning with the rising sun and were greeted with some breathtaking views as we walked down a medieval cobblestone path on the way out of Santarém. Much of the day was spent walking along farm land, but we had a good mile along a eucalyptus-lined path that made us both miss living in SoCal. Today was our longest day yet, finishing at 19.79 miles. The last two towns we walked through, Azinhaga and Golego are clean and quaint towns, and we are very thankful to have a room with air conditioning this evening.Read more

    • Day 7

      Day 7, Zero day in Tomar, Portugal

      April 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      It was a nice break to be able to leisurely wake up and lounge in bed this morning. We hope to do a rest day about once a week while on this journey. Tomar has been the ideal rest stop. There’s lots to see, a plentiful grocery store, and a great selection of restaurants. The history here is amazing. We grabbed a Tuk-Tuk ride up to the 12th Century Knights Templar castle then took a short stroll through town.Read more

    • Day 6

      Abrantes

      April 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Pre breakfast and chilly start allowed for multiple pasteis da nata breaks as we ate up the miles through relatively flat repetition of days 2 and 3. Lakeside at montaguil- but road busier and faster and killer head wind omnipresent. Surprise hill at the end up to a hotel perched on top of a hill in Abrantes- the first significant town of the trip.
      Getting through some miles today allows for 2 days in Lisbon- with no bikes!!!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Distrito de Santarém, Distrito de Santarem, Santarém

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