Esposende

Woke up: Pousada de Junventude (albergue)
Destination: unknown

Bored, bored, bored was most of today.

But I did wake up feeling no where near as bad as I thought I would. So that gave me a good kick of motivation. As well as the mindset I would get as far as I could.

I headed out alone. And was alone for most of today. There was a never-ending boardwalk that also cut in land which got super lush. Eucalyptus trees. And lots of allotments.

Oh and I bumped into Julia and Greg, the volunteers from Boston, working in the first pilgrim hostel in Porto. How coincidinks is that? Literally bumped into them - how can you be in a completely different country for 4 days and meet people you know, 50km away, at the exact same time. The Camino, sure lets you know with synchronousity that you doing something right by being here.

The Camino also Provides - and so it did. Only 20 mins after wishing I’d brought the physio ball for under the feet, a cyclist flagged me down and just randomly gave me a golf ball. No words, no actions with it. Just gave me one. Which came in plenty handy this evening in relaxing my feet.

I’d changed my footwear not too long in as I felt certain pain. Glad I did as I spotted the beginnings of a blister. So I changed, with much more room, and ventilation to the feet. So tied my boots on to my bag - although little did I know how long I was going to be in them.

Some signposts along the way LIED! They said from when you started a particular section it would be 12.5 km till Esponede (the ideal destination for the day).

And so on one boardwalk section, that took inland, taking me (now I know, away from the Senda Literol path to the official coastal) - it made me aware I had only 2.5 km to go. Brillant - I’ll book my hostel then!

Happy as only previously I was half tempted to stop in a albergue on the path. Was super cute but it felt too rural for what I was after. Especially if the destination was so near.

I ploughed on. Walking into forest tracks, aware of a female pilgrim not too far behind. The birds chirping in my head cheerleading me on. I came to a cross roads, and it was this point I realised I’d followed Camino signs off the senda litoral and on to the official costal. As I could work out why I was off the path marked on my phone, but the signs were saying different. It was at this point a man on a tractor beckoned me to come towards him, and then shouted “Santiago” of which we replied yes. And so she replied “that way, that way”.

Camino provided directions too apparently.

I walked with the pilgrim who caught me up for a while, an Irish woman from Dublin. At this point the cobbled roads were starting to hurt. And some rocky parts too were starting to really be felt by my under foot.

Coming into a small village, I spotted a church, and veered away from Irish woman. Also wondering whether they may have a stamp, as I’m still needing my first of the day. As I turn, I spotted resting the Dutch lady who was opposite me in the hostel last night. She followed my lead when I asked if there was a stamp, and she said oh we must check.

With that we headed in, leaving the other pilgrim to walk on ahead. There was a stamp. It was also at this point we realised we were again staying in the same place tonight so we set off together.

I found out Rianna, is also here on a grief journey and came to be and walk with her mum, three years after her passing.

We gained on the fellow pilgrim, who was clearly struggling. But she was adamant her town and lodgings was next.

It was at this point I checked how far we were away. 7.5 km (another 2 hours)! Stupid tourist signboards. Trust issues ahoy now!

And I’d booked my accommodation. So where I had hoped to walk as far as I could then book a place, that did NOT go to plan. My pace began worsening, the cobbled streets got atrociously cursed. And then to top it off, I had to walk a long bridge, but the pedestrian part was closed off so there was a makeshift scaffolding situation to walk on. That swayed!

This time I unclimbed my bag belts from me. Can’t believe I hadn’t thought of it last time, yes I can swim, but that back pack is gonna sink a person.

And so I trudged on. Although the last 20 mins with the help of a friend, won’t lie.

I arrived. I checked my feet. I showered. I went out for tea with Rianna and finally sampled Portugal’s dish, Fransescina (interesting!

How much my body can do tomorrow, is anyone’s guess. But I’m hoping it finally finds its rhythm, and this whole the first three days are the worse’s gets put behind me.

PS - cute check in texts by Angel and Lesley

Body check:
O blister behind right baby toe,
O blister forming to the side of my heel left foot.
O Bottom of legs sunburnt (legging end and sock start)

Little things:
O Concrete / or mud roads
O Showers not on a timerRead more