Portugal
Esposende Municipality

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    • Day 4

      Porto to Povoa

      April 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      We’re on the Camino for real! After breakfast we taxied to the beach north of Porto — and started walking at the Praia da Memoria obelisk. Most of the 13 miles to our destination in Povoa de Varzim were along a beach boardwalk, sometimes past sand dunes, always surrounded by wildflowers, and lots of bamboo stands. We walked thru a couple of small fishing villages, then thru a large urban area at the end. There were dozens of other pilgrims along the way, a handful of bicyclists, and many locals enjoying the boardwalk as well. At lunchtime we chatted with a young couple from Ireland at an outdoor cafe — she had recently walked a pilgrimage in Japan. Sunshine and a cool breeze were the perfect accompaniments to our first day. The hotel that was booked for us in Povoa was similar to the one in Porto: our twin beds were side by side in a very tiny room!Read more

    • Day 5

      Povoa to Beach Resort Hotel, Esposende

      April 25 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      Today was Dia da Liberdade, and the 50th anniversary of the Portuguese revolution. It was another short(ish) day of walking — 13 miles, only 6 hours with breaks. Beach boardwalk, then inland boardwalk, some towns, a golf course, a quiet wooded stretch on a dirt road. Kathleen took lots of flower photos — spring is a great time to be here! We’ve been seeing the same people at break stops and on the trail, and everyone wishes each other Bon (or Buen) Camino! Our hotel upgraded us to a Jr Suite — and the twin beds were all of 18” apart, not smushed together like at the other hotels. Kathleen, of course, did her traditional headstand on the beach, and we had a great sunset view at dinner.Read more

    • Day 4

      Hitting My Stride

      April 11 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Starting to learn how to become “one with the pack”. We most spent the day walking along the beach on boardwalks and sand. So grateful my sister Renee is here to share her experience and provide coaching. We turned inland for a bit and got a change of scenery as we passed soccer fields and a golf course next to the ocean. Definitely feel fatigued by the end of the day, but keep walking forward. Luckily, I won the sister room lottery and got to sleep in the private room.Read more

    • Day 4

      Day 3 Agucadoura to Esposende

      September 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Another short day, 11km. My pack is getting lighter…probably because I’m losing my gear 😂 Adapter in Porto and sleep liner and ear plugs in Vila do Conde. I was able to replace the adapter at the “Chinese store” for 8€.
      Todays walk was a mix of boardwalk, cobblestones and forest. It was nice to have the shade. Arrived in Esposende early, had lunch and wandered around town.
      Yesterday on my walk a lady on the street gave me a scallop shell charm…Bom Caminho! So sweet. Today I was able to get a leather necklace for it
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    • Day 5

      Day 4 Esposende to Anha

      September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Part 1 Left the Albergue before sunrise, 7:00am. Today was a 20km day over a mountain!! Literally, 140m elevation through cobblestone streets, and forest paths. It was tough, but so worth it. So much beauty and history.Read more

    • Day 5

      We Keep Walking!

      October 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

      We moved away from the coast today and entered a more rural landscape, walking on cobblestones and dirt paths. The continued rains here have made a muddy mess but at least in the villages, forests and vineyards, while it was chilly, we weren’t battling that stiff north wind. It did rain a lot today but there were also sunny times and a rainbow! The forests were lush and beautiful but some of the ways we went down the mountain would definitely not be approved by my orthopaedic surgeon! We crossed over the river Nieva on a sketchy looking concrete block bridge and I held my breath the whole time! Ultimately we clocked 19.75 miles, 48,515 steps and 58 flights of stairs today- a record for me and I feel it tonight!
      Passing through the villages we visited so many churches and chapels. There is understandably a particular devotion here to Our Lady of Fatima and almost every church has some type of remembrance. At Castelo de Nieva we saw the first church in Portugal ever consecrated to S. James- it dated back to 862 AD. In Viana do Castelo we walked over an iron bridge called the Ponté Eiffel to cross the river Lima- it was done by the Eiffel school and was pretty cool! Before we climbed the 600 feet up to our alburgue (rooming house) we stopped for a Pilgrim meal, a set menu including wine at a cheap price. Delicious! We are staying at the Alburgue San Luzia which is connected to the Sé (cathedral) - the reward of having the most amazing view of the city was worth the effort of the 600 meter climb- there are many sweet pilgrims also now staying here who we now consider our friends- now off to sleep- more adventures tomorrow! Fingers crossed the rain stops!!
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    • Day 5

      Friday night- Saturday

      October 7, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      I’ve adopted “Narrow Road” by Josh Baldwin as my theme song for this walk. Take a listen!
      Friday night- Made it to Esposende. It is a really nice resort town. The Main Street is all waterfront and park. Staying in a hotel that I at first thought was really nice. Now I think it is really nice- in an Overlook Hotel kind of way. It has lots of character as old hotels do- but there is definitely a creepy element here.
      I took kind of a circuitous route to get here. There are actually 2 different coastal Caminos. The one I thought I was on was the traditional one, but sometime today I noticed that I was no longer on that one. There was a pilgrim from Norway- Vidar. He and I had been taking turns passing each other and had stopped at the same place for lunch. Anyhoo- he saw me looking confused and told me I was on the Senda Litoral, but I should just stay on that cuz it’s the better one anyhow. Turns out Vidar had already done the Portuguese Camino both there and back. Did the traditional coastal and came back the Litoral- so he knows from whence he speaks. (He has also done the French route. Kind of an over achiever if you ask me). So I stayed on the Litoral but then started to wonder if that was gonna end up being longer so decided to cut over to catch the traditional. But that looked really far so I just consulted Google maps and went where they told me. And it ended up being a really pretty walk even though I was on it all by my lonesome.
      Met a couple of angels today, both named Maria. Neither spoke a word of English but we ended up being able to pantomime our way through. The first 2 pictures are of one of the Marias and Vidar.

      It’s Saturday and I’m about 1/2 way through the day’s walk. I started on the coast but the boardwalk had given way to sand, (no me gusta), plus it’s a hot day and no shade on the litoral. So I switched over to the coastal. So glad I switched. It’s been a beautiful walk, through some towns, some woods…. Right now I’m sitting under a tree in the courtyard of a beautiful church. Seems to be a popular pilgrim resting place. But the route has become quite hilly.
      Ya know- people are generally very kind. I stopped at a little cafe to have a cold sparkling water. The owner brought out a jar of biscuits, honey, jam and a little bowl of peanuts in the shell-(and I had just been thinking yesterday about how much I miss peanuts. It’s true what they say- the Camino does provide!). He filled up my water bottle and stamped my pilgrim passport without my even asking. I have met a couple of girls from Miami, a very nice woman (Silva) from the Czech Republic - she was traveling with a friend but the friend had gone ahead. Then another woman from the Czech Republic, Katerina, who was doing her 1st Camino and was on her own. Her son was an exchange student in Kansas last year.
      I am feeling that things I have been thinking about, reading, and listening to are beginning to synchronize.

      On the playlist today- Simon and Garfunkel. Best lyric- “I get all the news I need from the weather report”. (Only Livin’ Boy in New York).
      The church bells just rang and there appears to be some kind of mass. Time to get movin again!

      The pictures of people I meet I am including for me to remember. But there are some more scenic pictures too!

      So I was gonna end this when I left the church but then a mile down the path was this little canopy area and a guy, Albero, who had a whole little supply hut with fresh fruit, chips, beer, sparkling water- even a little espresso maker. He only asks for donations. So awesome!
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    • Day 3–4

      Dag 3: Vila do Conde - Esposende

      April 15 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

      Deze ochtend al vroeg uit de veren zodat ik om 7 u kon beginnen aan mijn dag! Mijn kamergenoten gingen allemaal de centrale route op dus ik wist dat ik alleen ging wandelen.
      Toch maar mijn lange legging en lange tshirt aangedaan want de burns were burning!

      Het duurde een klein uurtje voor ik de stad zelf uit was en weer langs het strand kon wandelen. Wel wat meer wind dan gisteren maar gezien ik mezelf had verplicht heel de dag mijn lange kleren aan te houden, was dat eigenlijk ideaal!

      Rond 9 uur werd het tijd voor mijn second breakfast: een espresso en iets wat ze hier een croissant noemen, nu ja ‘t was zonder melk dus kinneke content, en nog eens voor maar 1,5 euro!

      Kort daarna week het pad af van de kust en liep ik door een combinatie van duinen, velden van boeren en kleine dorpjes. Wel lieve boeren, want ik ben slechts 3 keer en evenveel km verkeerd gelopen tot een oude boer mijn de juiste richting aanwees 🙃.

      De laatste 8 kilometer begon ik toch echt last te krijgen. Doordat de achterkant van mijn benen zo verbrand waren en de huid helemaal strak stond, ben ik onbewust anders gaan lopen waardoor ik al snel een blaar ter grootte van mijn duim kreeg. En dan bedoel ik even groot als dat mijnen duim lang is, GROOT DUS.

      Na nog een snelle Pilgrim’s Lunch (soepeke, veggie pasta, kommeke fruit, badkuip wijn en een theetje voor 11 euro) heb ik de laatste 5 km op puur karakter gedaan. Mijn voeten waren er echt klaar mee!

      Gelukkig kwam ik het laatste halfuurtje een ouder Brits koppel tegen waarmee ik al heel de dag haasje-over aan het spelen was en liepen we het laatste deel samen!

      Thank god voor mijn hostel vandaag! Wel weer het bovenste bed maaaaar met gordijntjes, stopcontact naast mijn hoofd en een handdoek even groot als België 💗 Ah ja, en een zwembad!

      Na mijn post-walk pintje ben ik nog even snel de Aldi binnengewaggeld voor ontbijt en wat fruitjes voor on the road.

      ‘K ga nie liegen, ik heb wat schrik voor morgen 😅

      Totale afstand: 53 km
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    • Day 6

      Senda Litoral it is…

      September 29, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

      They were no rooms on the central way tonight so I’m staying on the coast until at least tomorrow :) found a path by the coast but not many yellow arrows here. We’ll see how the day goes… Met a pilgrim named Charlton. He said, I’m the good looking one not the dead one 😄 it took me a minute to get itRead more

    • Day 3

      Tag 3 Es löuft

      August 16, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Ah, Tag 3 meiner heiligen Pilgerfahrt von Vila do Conde nach Marinhas – der Tag begann um 6:00 Uhr, als die Vögel lautstark beschlossen, dass ich lang genug geschlafen habe. Schön, wenn man von der Natur so liebevoll geweckt wird.

      Um 6:30 Uhr brach ich auf, um die Welt zu erobern – oder zumindest die nächsten Kilometer. Mein Frühstück bestand aus zwei Espressi und einer seltsam leckeren "Buchtel" am Strand. Wenn ich die Augen zusammenkniff und meine Vorstellungskraft anstrengte, konnte ich mich fast wie ein Edelmann am königlichen Hof fühlen, der ein extravagantes Mahl verzehrt.

      Aber Moment mal, bei gerade einmal 15 Grad frischem Wind? Ich fühlte mich wie ein Schneemann auf Sommerurlaub, der verzweifelt versucht, an seinem Schal zu nuckeln.

      Die ersten Kilometer verliefen auf der Strandpromenade von Vila do Conde, wo ich mir eine älteren Dame eine Guten Weg wünschte, und mir unverhofft einen zweiten Anhänger – natürlich nicht im Sinne von Anhänger einer Fanbase, sondern im Sinne von Armbandanhänger – überreichte.

      Aber Moment, dann wurde es "berüchtigt". Die berühmt-berüchtigten Holzbohlen. Sie waren so gnädig, meinen Füßen eine Massage zu geben, während ich mich durch den Nebel schneidete der so dicht war, dass es sich anfühlte, als würde ich eine geheimnisvolle Parallelwelt betreten.

      Dann verließ ich den Strand und begab mich in den wilden Dschungel von Wäldern und Feldern, wie ein moderner Indiana Jones, der auf der Suche nach dem verlorenen Frühstückskeks ist. Doch keine Sorge, es gab keinen Tempel des Schreckens, sondern nur das Dorf "Fao", das mich mit offenen Armen empfing.

      Und von Fao aus ging es weiter, immer entlang der Promenade von Espoende. Mit gefühlten 35 Grad und ohne eine einzige Wolke am Himmel fühlte ich mich wie ein Wandervogel, der in der Sonnenhitze schmolz. Und erinnerte mich sehnsüchtig an den Schneemann zurück.

      Schließlich erreichte ich Marinhas und konnte meinen glorreichen Endspurt feiern, als ob ich gerade die Goldmedaille in der Kategorie "Überleben auf Holzbohlen" gewonnen hätte.

      Und was haben wir heute gelernt? Was kann aus dem Rucksack raus? Ist das der Beginn einer spirituellen Konversation oder einfach nur die verzweifelte Frage eines müden Wanderers? Der Körper gibt stille Antworten, mit einem Ziehen in der Schulter und einem kurzen Moment der Hüftklage nach jeder Pause.

      Aber keine Sorge, die Blasen halten sich bedeckt, um nicht das schwindelerregende Tempo meines Pilgerwegs zu stören.

      Doch in all dieser sarkastischen Ironie liegt eine tiefe Dankbarkeit für die vielen netten Bekanntschaften, die diesen Tag unvergesslich gemacht haben. Denn inmitten von Espresso, Buchtel und Holzbohlen ist es doch der menschliche Kontakt, der uns auf unserem Weg begleitet und uns daran erinnert, dass unsere Reise nicht nur physisch, sondern auch zwischenmenschlich ist.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Esposende, Esposende Municipality, اسپوسنده, ეშპოზენდი, Espozendė, Sposende, Эшпозенди, Ешпозенде, 埃斯波森迪

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