Portugal
Graça

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    • Day 6

      Arrival in Alfama Lisbon

      April 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      We picked up our left luggage at the Coimbra bus station and walked about 20 minutes along a flat thankfully shaded wide sidewalk to the rail station. All sidewalks are cobbled, primarily in the white granite (which is slippery underfoot than basalt when wet). Often not smooth and chunks can be missing so suitcase wheels taking a beating. In fact, just as much a beating for auto supensions on the cobbled roads here as you see on SUV ads off terrain in N America! The rail trip was smooth from Coimbra into Lisboa Oriente and then a switch to Santa Apolonia which is the closest rail station to the Alfama District in Lisbon was delayed. Doug was preoccupied about getting there by 1830h to pick up our Lisboa Cards 3 day transit and sight pass (as I edit this on our way out of Lisbon, it was a good deal; all our transport in the last 3 days was covered and the only sight we had to pay for were the two at Sintra which is out of town). We got there in time only to be told it had been closed all day! This despite the sign on the booth that it was open until 1900h and closed Monday/Tuesday and it was Thursday! Things appear quite random so even though there is convenience with organizing things at home on computer the reality may be different. The next challenge was finding our accommodation which did not prove easy even with Google Maps. We were prepared for the climb through the cobbled streets and steps. This is the area of town that was not destroyed by the earthquake that pretty much flattened and burned Lisbon on Nov 1, 1755. Alfama was the Jewish quarter and the Jews got blamed and persecuted as their area of town was "saved". The roads are so narrow that even Tuk Tuk taxis can't get through parts of it. Our door was almost hidden and we walked right past, but a kind local helped us find it. Down steps and up steps to a very cute flat with windows over looking the city. A bit warm as it faces West but did cool off when the sun left and we opened up the windows. Nice cooking facilities so we plan to save some $ as Mr. bean counter says we are over budget, Today's activities (exclusive of prepaid) including 35 EU at a local little grocery coming to $120 CDN.Read more

    • Day 12

      Coimbra

      April 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      The train trip took 2 hours heading north to Coimbra, a small university town. It was only half a day here and already we have fallen in love with the city. We visited the old church built in the 12th century and updated through the 15th century with tile and art with Moorish and Spanish influences. It was clearly well taken care of and revered as it was in quite good shape for such an old building. The new church (although also very, very old by North American standards) was beautiful, but churches give me the creeps sometimes. All those depictions of a dead guy hanging from a cross by nails in his hands and feet plus the absolute misery imposed by the Catholic Church on people all over the world and in Europe. I can feel it in the walls of them.

      We are staying in an Airbnb situated on a narrow pedestrian street. Everything from here is either up or down a long flight of stairs along corridors packed with little shops or quiet residences. The colours and balconies dressed with hanging laundry make is feel like a real city as opposed to a tourist town.

      The university makes for lots of political graffiti and students yelling, carousing and even barfing in the streets. I’m thankful for the vibrancy but the roving drunk lads, not so much.

      We have eaten quite well on this trip sharing great wine and traditional Portuguese foods. So far I have had goat, chicken, beef, lamb, grouper and several amazing vegetarian meals. The food has been great and the service has been very friendly. Even with my knowledge of Spanish, the menu items are usually a mystery. Portuguese is a close cousin of Spanish so I can often read the signs at museums and historical markers but I still miss a lot.

      Tomorrow we have another day in this incredible town to explore more…
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    • Day 1

      Ankunft im AirBnB-Apartment

      July 31, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

      Lissabon (portugiesisch Lisboa) ist die Hauptstadt Portugals sowie des gleichnamigen Landes-Regierungsbezirks Distrikt Lissabon, sie ist mit knapp 600.000 Einwohnern sowie mit 2,8 Mio. Einwohnern im Großraum Lissabon (Stand 2019) eine der größeren Städte in der Europäischen Union. Der Distrikt Lissabon hat 2.963.272 Einwohner, die Metropole liegt an einer Bucht der Flussmündung des Tejo im äußersten Südwesten Europas an der Atlantikküste der Iberischen Halbinsel. Außerhalb der Stadt Lissabons erstreckt sich zwischen Cascais und Estoril eine Reihe von Stränden am Atlantik.Read more

    • Day 7

      Pantheon

      April 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      This was our last stop of the day. Amazing domes, space and views! Interesting street scene on the way out with multiple tuk tuks carrying tourists back down the hill.

      It was the Church of Saint Engratia when it was built in 1682, but became the National Pantheon in 1916. Its large dome was only completed in 1966, making it the monument that took the longest to complete in all of Portugal. There’s even an expression in the country for something that takes forever -- “a job like St. Engratia.”It’s said that its construction took forever because it stands on the site of a previous church that was desecrated by a robbery in 1630. A Jew was blamed and executed, only to be exonerated later. Before dying, he said that a new church would never be completed, due to the conviction of an innocent man. He seemed to have prophesied, when the new church collapsed during the first months of construction in 1681 (the cause was the effect of a storm on a poorly-built foundation). It’s considered Portugal’s first baroque monument, but it lacks all the golden ornamentation and blue-and-white tile panels, so typical of Portuguese baroque. Instead, its interior is inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, and made up of colored marble. Built on an octagonal floor plan centered on a Greek cross, it holds the tombs and cenotaphs of the country’s most important or famous cultural figures, like explorers, presidents, poets, and even Fado diva Amália Rodrigues.

      Admission included the climb to the large terrace by the dome, which offers a view over Alfama and the river.
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    • Day 3

      Jour 3 : quartier Alfama

      November 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Excellent petit déjeuner où nous découvrons une autre spécialité : une sorte de beignet à la canelle et crème pâtissière. Puis nous partons à l'assaut du quartier Alfama et de ses nombreux belvédères ! La vue sur le Tage et sur la ville y est splendide. Nous entrons dans une quantité de petites boutiques qui n'existent plus ou presque plus en France : magasin de laines, de boutons, de laine tissée, de gants, de mercerie, de faïencerie, de cordonnerie, où tout, absolument tout est fait main. Les portugais sont très attachés à leur artisanat lequel est de grande qualité. Quant aux bâtiments, je n'en reviens pas, tout est en marbre, et monumental ! Nous visitons le Monastère Saint Vincente : rien à voir avec celui de Jeronimo. Ici, tout est épuré, tout en blanc. En revanche, quasiment tous les murs sont recouverts d'azulejos : ces fameux carreaux de faïence bleus et blancs. C'est impressionnant. J'ai d'ailleurs le plaisir de découvrir 32 panneaux représentant des fables de la Fontaine ! Puis nous allons boire une délicieuse sangria dans une petite ruelle où un musicien joue du fado, c'est tellement joli et authentique ! Et nous terminons notre journée en beauté dans un restau qui nous sert de merveilleuses spécialités à base de gambas et d'aubergine, sur lit de salade, c'est exquis !Read more

    • Day 79

      Lisbon, Portugal

      May 5, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Did you know Lisbon is not only one of the oldest cities in Europe, but it’s also one of the sunniest, with 2,800+ hours of sunshine per year. A match made in heaven 😎

      We absolutely fell in love with the incredible buzz of the place! It has culture, history, natural beauty, landmarks, GREAT food and wine with a slightly rough-around-the-edges feel to it. 💛

      There were so many highlights, but I’ll keep it short and best tip is to just embrace the lost stroll!

      Grab an Air BnB in Barrio Alto or Chiado - central location with great vibes & cool restaurants.

      TO DO
      - Get lost through the back streets of Barrio Alto & Chiado neighbourhoods
      - Walk East into the old city Alfama with windy streets up to the Castle. Take in the hilltop vistas from here
      - The oldest library in the WORLD - Bertrand bookstore
      - Take Tram 28 up to Castelo de Sao Jorge - a great experience
      - Walk up to Miradouro de Santa Luzia and get the best view of the city
      - Praça do Comércio
      - Grab a pineapple pina colada from the waterfront whilst taking in the view of the striking Golden Gate-style bridge from Cais das Colunas
      - Take a scooter or bike along the water front to Belém, the home of Pastel de Nata (the Portuguese tart)
      - Torre de Belem on the water is cool

      TO EAT
      - Don’t miss the mushroom risotto at Cantinho do Avillez - such a yummy restaurant
      - Check out the Time Out Market - the best food in Lisbon all under one roof!
      - Hit up a Mesa de Frades - local dishes with Fado
      - LX Factory for arty vibes
      - Pastel de Nata (Portuguese tarts)
      - If you’re game, try the Frachesinha which is the classic sandwich in the region. We didn’t manage, it looked pretty full on! Will save it for Porto…
      - Hit up Bohemia Cerveja for a real local experience - a seafood institution run by the same family for 40 years - we still dream of the garlic prawns!

      TO DRINK
      - Portuguese wine is delish (and cheap) so defs tuck into that. We loved the reds from the Douro region
      - Vino Vero is a cute wee natural wine bar
      - Head up to Park Hotel rooftop for sunset drinks
      - Barrio Alto has a few streets where all the night life happens, it’s fun to wander around
      - Always have a Super Bock mini in hand! We bought them from local shops as we strolled around the place

      ✌🏼
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    • Day 3

      Tag 3: Alfama 2

      August 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Bei unseren Streifzügen durch die Stadt kamen uns unzählige Tuk-Tuks unter. Erst dachten wir, es handle sich um einen Marketing-Gag, so ähnlich diese Duck Tours. Aber es wimmelte nur so von ihnen. Den Mädels war die Hitze langsam doch zu viel und das viele Gehen obendrein. Also kurzerhand ein Tuk-Tuk angesprochen und wir handelten uns (besser gesagt ich 🤣) eine rund 1stündige individuelle Tour für 70€ aus.

      Unser Tuk-Tuk war eher ein Elektro-Golfwagerl, aber es hat wahnsinnig Spaß gemacht durch die Straßen zu brausen und diverse weitere Spots mitzunehmen, die so zu Fuß mit den Kids zu weit gewesen wäre. Wir hielten beim Pantheon, brausten beim Mercado de Santa Clara vorbei, zum nächsten Viewpoint: Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. Von dort ging es wieder bergwärts bei der Kathedrale vorbei, durchs Baixa zum quasi gegenüberliegenden Viewpoint dem Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, wo wir bereits am Vortag waren. Und jetzt noch bei Rossio vorbei und ein schneller Abstecher fürs Foto beim Elevador de Santa Justa, bevor wir beim gewünschten Time Out Market enden.
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    • Day 6

      Lisboa 2.0

      September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Der Elevador de Santa Justa ist der einzige senkrechte Aufzug Lissabons im öffentlichen Dienst und Wahrzeichen der Stadt. Die über 100 Jahre alte Stahlkonstruktion verbindet die beiden Stadtteile Baixa und Chiado.
      Der Elevador de Santa Justa in der portugiesischen Hauptstadt Lissabon wird auch Elevador do Carmo genannt und ist der wohl berühmteste Aufzug Europas und Wahrzeichen Lissabons. Er befindet sich im direkt im Zentrum von Lissabon und verbindet den Stadtteil Baixa (Unterstadt) über eine 45m lange Strecke mit höher gelegenen Stadtteil Chiado und Barrio Alto (Oberstadt).

      Unser Lieblingsladen (neben dem LIDL) ist der Ale-Hop in Portugal. Wir waren insgesamt in 4 oder 5 Ale-Hop‘s und haben immer wieder etwas neues gekauft.. vor allem Brillenketten 😁
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    • Day 8

      Lisbon Day One

      April 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      It is gloriously warm here in Lisbon. We arrived after a not terrible overnight flight from Philadelphia and got into the Airbnb early. Unlike Air Canada, American Airlines actually landed early, and I got my bag immediately. The place has a lovely view of the ocean and sits across from a Monastery. The guy we rented from talked and talked. He thinks Putin is a nice fellow… In any case, he has a great spot.

      We settled in, bought groceries, and then went to the National Tile Museum. The tile was beautiful, but I wasn’t quite sure what I was looking at. There were scant descriptions and maybe we were just tired. Mostly we just were soaking up the architecture, narrow streets and outdoor cafes. I’m soooo happy.

      Kirsten and Lennart (our friends from Sweden) arrived by 6pm, and we went for some traditional Portuguese food. Loved it. It was also great to catch up with them. We hadn’t seen them since they came to visit us in Portland just after I retired in 2018. They are both engineers - Kirsten has retired and Lennart can’t seem to break the habit and is working one or two days a week. They are also both politically involved in the progressive and environmental parties in Sweden.

      Even though I went to Costa Rica last year, I was in one place for most of the 7 weeks in a homestay. Here and the rest of my travels will be a few nights or even just one night stays. It is a different way to pack - being organized is essential. So far, so good.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Graça, Graca

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