Igreja de Santo Estêvão

We picked up our left luggage at the Coimbra bus station and walked about 20 minutes along a flat thankfully shaded wide sidewalk to the rail station. All sidewalks are cobbled, primarily in the white granite (which is slippery underfoot than basalt when wet). Often not smooth and chunks can be missing so suitcase wheels taking a beating. In fact, just as much a beating for auto supensions on the cobbled roads here as you see on SUV ads off terrain in N America! The rail trip was smooth from Coimbra into Lisboa Oriente and then a switch to Santa Apolonia which is the closest rail station to the Alfama District in Lisbon was delayed. Doug was preoccupied about getting there by 1830h to pick up our Lisboa Cards 3 day transit and sight pass (as I edit this on our way out of Lisbon, it was a good deal; all our transport in the last 3 days was covered and the only sight we had to pay for were the two at Sintra which is out of town). We got there in time only to be told it had been closed all day! This despite the sign on the booth that it was open until 1900h and closed Monday/Tuesday and it was Thursday! Things appear quite random so even though there is convenience with organizing things at home on computer the reality may be different. The next challenge was finding our accommodation which did not prove easy even with Google Maps. We were prepared for the climb through the cobbled streets and steps. This is the area of town that was not destroyed by the earthquake that pretty much flattened and burned Lisbon on Nov 1, 1755. Alfama was the Jewish quarter and the Jews got blamed and persecuted as their area of town was "saved". The roads are so narrow that even Tuk Tuk taxis can't get through parts of it. Our door was almost hidden and we walked right past, but a kind local helped us find it. Down steps and up steps to a very cute flat with windows over looking the city. A bit warm as it faces West but did cool off when the sun left and we opened up the windows. Nice cooking facilities so we plan to save some $ as Mr. bean counter says we are over budget, Today's activities (exclusive of prepaid) including 35 EU at a local little grocery coming to $120 CDN.Read more