Portugal
Pena National Palace

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    • Day 35

      Sintra: Kultur und Kitsch nahe beinander

      March 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Ein echter Apriltag sollte uns heute erwarten. Erster Stopp unserer Fahrradtour war ein wirklich wunderschöner Wasserfall aus einem Märchen. Genauso geheimnisvoll war er auch zu finden. Ich glaube, hier war noch nie ein Tourist, außer wir natürlich ;-)

      In Portugal an Wasserfälle zu denken bedeutet, in erster Linie an den Peneda-Gerês-Nationalpark (im Norden) zu denken, denn hier liegt die Welt der Wasserfälle in Portugal. Ansonsten sind sie nicht so präsent, zumal man bedenken sollte, dass in den Sommermonaten die Wassermenge natürlich geringer ist als im Winter d.h. in der Regenzeit. Wenn man sich anschaut, wie leer die Stauseen zurzeit sind, war der nicht gerade auf unserer Route liegende Wasserfall echt gnädig mit uns.

      Jetzt aber auf nach Sintra. Vorweggenommen: Stefan ist an der Tourenplanung durch die sieben Paläste der Gegend gescheitert. Trotz Google Street View und Kommot schien es keine wirklichen mit Fahrrad befahrbaren Wege zu den Schlössern zu geben. Tipp: Kauf eines Hop-on-hop-off-Discover-Sintra-Tickets am Busbahnhof. Ich schwöre euch, diese Wege wollt ihr nicht mit dem Fahrrad erkunden. Wie der Bus überhaupt diese Serpentinen hoch gekommen ist, ist mir bis heute ein Rätsel. Da die Fußmärsche von den Busstops zu den Sehenswürdigkeiten immer noch durchaus anspruchsvoll waren, haben wir uns dann auch auf zwei Highlights beschränkt: Moorish Castle und Pena Palace und natürlich eine im Ticket enthaltene kleine Stadtrundfahrt.
      Ich wäre gerne noch in den Park von Monserrat Palace gefahren, aber die haben schon um 17:00 Uhr geschlossen - und wir waren mächtig platt, als wir danach wieder auf unseren Rädern den Heimweg antraten.

      Die Ruinen des Castelo dos Mouros erheben sich ziemlich hoch über Sintra, so dass sie in den Wolken zunächst verschwanden. Sie wurde auf einem Felsvorsprung errichtet, der normalerweise freien Blick auf die Küste sowie die Umgebung bot, was zur Verteidigung der gesamten Region früher sicher von großem Nutzen war. Irgendwann im 12. Jahrhundert eroberten die christlichen Kreuzritter die Burg von den Mauren, überließen diese dann jedoch sich selbst, sodass sie irgendwann zerfiel und vom dichten Wald, der die Hügel der Serra de Sintra bedeckt, zurückerobert wurde. Daher strahlt die Burg im Gegensatz zu allen anderen Touristenattraktionen im direkten Umfeld insbesondere bei dem Wetter am heutigen Tag eine besonders spannende mystische Atmosphäre aus. Auch das hier die alten Steine beherrschende Moos trug zu diesem Gefühl bei, in einer verlorenen Welt zu sein.
      Im größten Kontrast: Der verspielte, bizarr/kitschig-bunte Palast von Pena, die einstige Sommerresidenz der Könige Portugals, wird vielfach als „Neuschwanstein von Portugal“ angepriesen. Ein portugiesischer Besucher knurrt ärgerlich: „Blödsinn, als der Bayer den Auftrag gab, lebten hier längst unsere Monarchen.“ Die historischen Fakten geben ihm recht: Pena war 1854 fertig, mit dem Alpenschloss wurde 1869 erst begonnen.
      Bevor die wunderschönen Parkanlagen um das Schloss angelegt wurden, war der Gebirgszug übrigens so kahl wie eine Mondlandschaft, was dem Massiv im Volksmund den Namen Monte da Lua eintrug (Deutsch: Mondberg). Neben einheimischen Kiefern, Eichen und Ginster findet man hier auch beeindruckende kalifornische Mammutbäume.
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    • Day 13

      Sintra

      August 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

      Dedichiamo la giornata alla visita di Sintra: partiamo da Lisbona e arriviamo in stazione in mattinata, da lì ci incamminiamo e raggiungiamo il Palazzo di Pena, di cui visitiamo giardini e interni.
      Ultimata la visita, scendiamo fino alla Quinta da Regaleira, ammirando le vedute sul Palazzo dei Mori durante la discesa.
      Una volta visitata la reggia e i giardini di Regaleira, percorriamo il centro storico passando davanti al Palazzo Nazionale di Sintra.
      Infine, rientriamo a Lisbona.
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    • Day 10

      Palácio Nacional da Pena

      September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Der Palácio Nacional da Pena (deutsch Nationalpalast Pena) ist ein Schloss in der portugiesischen Stadt Sintra. Es wurde nach 1840 im Auftrag des portugiesischen Titularkönigs und Königsgemahls Ferdinand II. (1816–1885) auf den Ruinen eines Klosters errichtet.Read more

    • Day 10

      Palacio da Pena Chapel

      September 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      》The Palace of Pena Chapel resulted from the adaptation of the former Monastery Church of Our Lady of Pena.

      Up until the abolition of religious orders, this church was open to the faithful (who would arrive at the Pena monastery along the Pilgrims Way).

      The main altar retable from the former church, in alabaster and limestone from the Sintra region, was worked on between 1529 and 1532, by the sculptor of French origin, Nicolas de Chanterenne, and resulted from a commission from João III, son of Manuel I, the founder of the convent.

      A particular highlight is the stained glass window installed by Ferdinand II in the wall opposite the main altar, which dates to 1840, shortly after the Palace began construction, which was produced by the famous stained glass workshop in Nuremberg belonging to the Kellner family. The glass reveals artistic intentions but also the political legitimacy underlying the construction of the Palace.

      》Castelo dos Mouros (Moors Castle)

      A privileged vantage point looking out over the Atlantic coastline, the floodplain and the Sintra Hills, the millennium-old Moorish Castle, founded under Islamic rule, occupied a then strategic position for defending both the surrounding territory and the maritime access routes to the city of Lisbon. The artefacts found on this site identify how, in between the walls and their adjoining areas, there lived a population in an area now named the Islamic Quarter.

      The silos, structures carved into the rocks, may be encountered both inside and outside the fortification and were used to conserve certain foodstuffs such as cereals.

      The Moors lived here through to 1147, when Sintra was handed over to Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal, following the conquest of the cities of Lisbon and Santarém. Strategically and as a means of defending these lands, the running of the town of Sintra and its immediate hinterlands was bestowed on Gualdim Pais, a master in the Knights Templar, who received a charter in 1154.

      With the settlement of a Christian population in the Moorish Castle, the Islamic Quarter began to disappear and give way to a Medieval town with its occupation ongoing through to the 15th century. At that time, the site was steadily subject to abandonment given that, with the conflicts between the Moors and Christians long over, the population no longer felt the need to seek shelter within the vicinity of the fortification. This Medieval town included the Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim, built between the two rings of walls.



      Already into the 19th century, and in keeping with the Romantic spirit prevailing in that period, King Ferdinand II undertook restoration work on the castle, breathing new life into the medieval imaginary surrounding this site. These renovation works damaged part of the Christian burial grounds of the Church and, for this reason, the order was given to build a tomb to house the bones found there. Given the inability to distinguish whether these were Christian or Moorish human remains, the tomb bears the inscription: “What man brought together, only God may separate”.
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    • Day 32

      Sintra

      September 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      An early morning bus trip to Sintra wasn't quite enough to dodge the crowds that appeared to flock to the National Palace of Pena, but i didn't plan the day as best i could have. Firstly, I should have headed straight to the Palace and made my way down the hill, slowly seeing things as I go. Instead, I wandered around Sintra before finding myself at the bottom of the hill, looking up a small but beautiful hike to the castle that overlooks the town. After a couple of hours wandering through the beautiful forest, I realised that the Palace would likely need to be booked in advance, but without a sim card, there was nothing I could do to organise myself. I, therefore, had to wait and hope for the best. Eventually, I arrived at the castle, and I was lucky enough they had wifi for visitors, but the next available time for the Palace was at 3 o'clock. A solid 2 and a bit hours from the current time. This was annoying as it wasn't going to take me 2 hours to see the castle, but it meant I could take my time. Matt and Nina were also supposed to arrive in Lisbon around 4, so I was going to be late catching up with them. It's a shame, but we had all night to hang out. It turns out the castle was very interesting but not quite large enough to drain anymore time than maybe an hour. They had an audio guide and some cool information pieces, and most importantly, some wifi so I could actually listen without a sim card. The thing I like most about these castles is the unrestricted access you get. You can walk all along the perimeter of the narrow walls, never far from the edge that leads to a 3 or 4 meter drop. Something that would not happen in Australia. But it adds to the immersion of the site. It was cool to see the colourful palace up the mountain a bit further, too. A slightly drizzly day, the castle and the Palace stood out amongst the forest with a mist covering parts of the city. Really felt like it was medieval times. After killing as much time as possible here, it was time to get to the palace, although i was early, it mentioned that you can access the gardens any time. I figured I could kill some time here, too. But, it ended up being tiny. I took the long path to the palace around the forest a bit more, but I was still about 30 minutes early.

      To my surprise people were already queued, so I joined. As a result, I was still quite close to the front, but I was due to do a lot more waiting, unfortunately. When 3 o'clock hit, the queue moved quickly, but this was misleading. It was simply just us walking up the pathway to join the queue from the last time period. Once here, we waited for ages. Then we finally got to the door to enter the Palace, I downloaded an app to give me an audioguide, but this required wifi or data throughout the whole Palace, which I didn't have. Even once my ticket was scanned, security wouldn't let me through because all the rooms were too full - so more waiting. This should have prepared me for my biggest pet peeve, and the most annoying part of the day. The hallways are incredibly narrow, maybe 2 people wide, so even once inside it was basically just one large queue to get all the way around and some people take fucking ages to take pictures or read all the information on the boards. I was pretty fucking over it by this point, but I couldn't pass people. The tour guides are the worst because people have to crowd close to hear the guide but then no one can pass and everyone is basically forced to participate in the tour, even though it may be in Chinese or some shit. I eventually used any opportunity to pass people. I'm not sure if people would be pissed as it basically was one big queue, but whenever I could, I would walk around the outside and just jump ahead. I was out of patience. Not to mention the shit inside the building did not excite me in the slightest. It was just medieval furniture. I guess it gave an insight into their wealth and how they lived, but a quick walk through gave the exact same experience. Perhaps if I did this in the morning, I would have had more patience and more space to enjoy it, but I was gunning for the exit shortly after entering. This is only the second time I have been in a situation like this, the first being the Vatican museum. The best part of the castle was the outside anyway. I didn't care what was inside, so I rushed to get outside and see what that was like. This was much more interesting, and although small, I found this to be much cooler. But then I was forced to deal with my second largest pet peeve, couples getting photos and taking up the whole path. So you either sit and wait while they take photos or just blatantly walk righting front. Luckily, most are quick, but if they're taking too long, I'm walking through. I don't care if I ruin your photo. Self obsessed cunts anyway. To be fair there were some narrow alleyways that didnt provide much opportunity for people to pass, but get your quick photo and move on, dont takes ages. But eventually I did find my own space to observe and enjoy the castle, the colours and shape are extraordinary, I was just not in a great mood.

      In retrospect, some better planning and a functional sim card would have made today more functional and much more enjoyable. Unfortunately, a lot of things culminated in me being frustrated. But I do think the palace didn't live up to expectations if I try to look past the other factors. It isn't massive, and it's colourful, but you really spend more time waiting than actually exploring. I think they try to make the main attraction the inside, with the decor and furniture, but that just doesn't really excite me. I don't want to know how the MEGA rich loved a couple hundred years ago. I was expecting a bigger focus on the outside and the purpose of the building. Perhaps if my audioguide worked, it would give this insight, but all the physical information pieces were for the different rooms, and I wasn't too fussed. To me, the best part of the day was the walk up the hill, through the beautiful forest. It was incredible and perfect weather, with cool plants and places to just wander.

      Eventually, though, I was done for the day and made my way back to the hostel. Upon my arrival, I ran into Matt. He was staying at my hostel, and Nina was just across the road. So we all caught up and went to watch the Benfica game at the pub. Benfica is a Lisbon team, and it was their first champions league game of the season, so it was due to be big. We expected the streets to be littered with fans, but we went to pub after pub to find them and found nothing. It was mostly people watching the Manchester United vs. Bayern Munich game. This was surprising and kind of sad, I was keen for an atmosphere. To be fair, we weren't in the Benfica suburb, and most of the rest of Lisbon are likely Sporting Lisbon fans - the main team for the city. But I didn't think it would be so hard. Not to mention, the game went poorly for them. A red card in the first 15 minutes and a pretty comfortable loss meant it wouldn't have been the best game to go to, or even watch live with fans. But oh well, after this we bought a bottle of vodka and some chaser and headed to the park for some good ol fashioned public park drinking. Felt like a teenager again. Then, we were quite drunk and wandered the streets until we found a cool bar. We danced and drank here for a while before eventually being kicked out. It was a Wednesday, but we were shocked they closed at 2 am. After this, there wasn't much to do, really. We chatted with some Brits out front for a while before going for a walk. Nothing prevailing, we retired for the night and went to bed. This was my last night in Lisbon and with Matt and Nina. They were really cool and I'm glad I met them as I had some friends for the past week or so. But tomorrow, I will be saying goodbye for good.
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    • Day 40

      Pena Palace

      October 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We pre-booked our tickets to visit Pena Palace and I am so glad we did. We walked into Sintra to catch a public bus up to the palace, we found the bus stop and waited. What we experienced was a unending line of tour buses letting out huge groups right where we were waiting. It was like tsunami of tour groups - our worst nightmare. The buses were lined up four in a row, double and triple parked, blocking traffic and generally causing pandemonium. A local plod eventually stepped in and restored a bit of order.

      Our bus, the 434, eventually managed to get through but had nowhere to stop. Finally, there was room and the bus driver pulled in. We all hopped on and headed off on what we had been told was about a 15 minute bus ride up to the palace. We stopped near Sintra train station to let more people on and then stayed put for at least 15 minutes. We could see the clock ticking down to our 10:30 am entry time (which we were told was strictly enforced), so I asked the driver when we might start moving. He said that he would be departing in 5 minutes but, not to worry they, would let us in. We were only dropped off outside the gate of the Peña Palace at 10.40 am. Then, to my horror, I realised we have to schlepp up a steep hill to get to the castle. By the time we reached the line it was 10.55 am and the 11 am group were about to be let in. Lucky, the guy scanning tickets took pity and told us to walk ahead of the 11 am group. We finally entered the palace just before 11 am and I was sweating from head to toe.

      I could now breath normally again and slowly recovered as we walked slowly through this most impressive building following the long conga line of other tourists. Peña Palace stands on the top of a hill in the mountains above the town of Sintra. On a clear day the castle can easily be seen from Lisbon. It is a national monument and is one of the major expressions of 19th century Romanticism in the world. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven wonders of Portugal. And, it’s very crowded.

      The castle’s history started in the Middle Ages when a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Peña was built on top of the hill above Sintra. Then in 1493, King John, accompanied by his wife Queen Leonor, made a pilgrimage to the site to fulfill a vow. His successor, King Manual I, was also fond of this sanctuary, and ordered the construction of the monastery, which was donated to the Order of Saint Jerome. For centuries Peña was a small quiet place for meditation, housing a maximum of 18 monks.

      In the 18th century the monastery was severely damaged by lightening and then the Great Lisbon earthquake, reduced it to ruins. For decades the ruins remained untouched. In 1838, King Ferdinand II decided to acquire the old monastery, all the surrounding lands, the nearby Castle of the Moors and a few other estates in the area.
      He then proceeded to transform the remains of the monastery into a palace that would serve as a summer residence for the Portuguese royal family. Construction took place between 1842 and 1854.

      In 1995, the palace and the rest of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra were classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

      It is simply breathtaking to see and the craftsmanship on display is quite wonderful. There area a number of different styles including Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo- Renaissance. We spent a couple of hours exploring the palace and it’s gardens.
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    • Day 17

      Pena Palace

      October 15, 2023 in Portugal

      From Sintra we go up a twisty road through a forest to Pena Palace which was in the clouds. Because we were only six in a mini van we managed to get in before the rain got heavy. Later ones got absolutely soaked.
      Beautiful rooms inside King Ferdinands palace, he was more or less the last king of Portugal. His son reigned for two years after the kings suspicious death, but he was only seven, before Portugal became a republic.
      There are extensive gardens, but because of the torrential rain, we skipped touring them.
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    • Day 2

      Sintra - Palacio de Pena

      February 5 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Nachdem ich Lissabon schon etwas kenne, gungs heute mal raus aus der Stadt in den Ort Sintra, wo sich einige Paläste befinden. Erster Stopp der Palacio de Pena, wo die früheren Könige von Portugal gewohnt haben. Angereist sind wir mit dem Zug und anschließend kann man sich ein Tagesticket für die Busse 434 und 435 lösen, die einen zu den einzelnen Palästen führen.Read more

    • Day 1

      Portugal: Pena Palace in Sintra

      March 3 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      We’re now in Portugal, and it’s our last day of travel with Nance & Sande. We’d arranged a day-long tour to see sights outside of Lisbon and particularly the iconic Pena Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in the hills of Sintra town.

      A group of 8 of us joined our guide, Alberto, who took us first to the palace, which was occupied by various members of the royalty until the Republican Revolution of 1910. The coup leaders killed the current king, and the rest of the royal family fled in exile. What’s interesting is that it’s evident they really cleared out fast. All the furnishings and decorations are original from the time the family lived there. Queen Amelia’s hair brushes are still laid out on her nightstand.

      We carried on with a stop in Sintra village for a coffee break with traditional pastries, and then a drive through the countryside for a traditional Portuguese lunch at a family-run restaurant (seafood is very big here, as you can imagine, being on the Atlantic). Delicious!

      After lunch, it was on to the westernmost point of continental Europe, and then to another iconic (although touristic) village of Cascais. It was a great way to wrap up our travels with Nance & Sande and meet some new people, too!
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    • Day 9

      Sintra

      March 25 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

      The queue for train tickets to Sintra was insanely long (and this isn’t even peak season) so we Ubered - which is really inexpensive here.

      Sintra is up in the hills and the Royal Palace sits high up above the town. The palace, in its various forms was occupied between the 12th-19th centuries and provided the Royal Court a welcome escape from the summer heat.

      Found a great bar (aptly named the Lord Byron) as he spent sometime here in 1809 and called Sintra “Glorious Eden”. In one of his letters he wrote: “Sintra . . . contains beauties of every description, natural and artificial”.

      We discovered Ginjinha - a local sour cherry style liquor that is often served as shots in a mini chocolate cup. Very pleasant!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Pena National Palace, Palácio Nacional da Pena

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